The cover image was created by the transcriber and is placed in the public domain.

FIELD & TUER,
THE LEADENHALL PRESS, E.C.
(T. 4346)

E. W. G.

The account of the several journeys through England undertaken by my kinswoman, Celia Fiennes, in the reign of William and Mary, may prove interesting, as shewing the manners and customs of those times. The writer’s diligent and attentive observation of details concerning the various counties through which she passed, either on horseback or in her equipage, and her descriptions of the many gentlemen’s seats visited by her, seem worthy of notice and preservation. Numerous towns are described, and a great many churches and country seats—some of which doubtless no longer exist—are minutely detailed. There being little literature of this kind and period in existence, Celia Fiennes’s diary almost takes the position and value of an historical document. The portion relating to London is interesting. The Lord Mayor’s Show and other ceremonies are fully described. The perusal of these quaint and straight-forward pages, in which there is little pretence to style, gives a good idea of what England was two hundred years back. The only actual date mentioned is 1695. The absence of roads strikes one, and also the unimportance of what are now the great manufacturing districts of the north. Bristol appears to have been the second city in the kingdom. The fashionable baths and spas and style of bathing are minutely described. With the exception of the dome, St Paul’s Cathedral was finished, and viiiWhitehall Palace had recently been burned—the authoress suspects by Papist incendiaries.

The original MS., given to me by my father, has been copied verbatim, as I believe any correction or alteration would spoil its quaint originality. Celia Fiennes was daughter of Colonel Nathaniel Fiennes, a Parliamentarian Officer, by his marriage with Miss Whitehead, and was sister of the third Viscount Saye and Sele.

EMILY W. GRIFFITHS.

As this was never designed: soe not likely to fall into the hands of any but my near relations, there needs not much to be said to Excuse or recommend it. Something may be diverting and proffitable tho’ not to Gentlemen that have travelled more about England, staid longer in places, might have more acquaintance and more opportunity to be inform’d. My Journeys as they were begun to regain my health by variety and change of aire and exercise, soe whatever promoted that was pursued; and those informations of things as could be obtein’d from jnns en passant, or from some acquaintance, inhabitants of such places could ffurnish me with for my diversion, I thought necessary to remark: that as my bodily health was promoted my mind should not appear totally unoccupied, and the collecting it together remain for my after conversation (with such as might be inquisitive after such and such places) to w^ch might have recourse; and as most I converse with knows both the ffreedom and Easyness I speak and write as well as my deffect in all, so they will not expect exactness or politeness in this book, tho’ such Embellishments might have adorned the descriptions and suited the nicer taste.

Now thus much without vanity may be asserted of the subject, that if all persons, both Ladies, much more Gentlemen, would spend some of their tyme in Journeys to visit their native Land, and be curious to Inform themselves and xmake observations of the pleasant prospects, good buildings, different produces and manufactures of each place, with the variety of sports and recreations they are adapt to, would be a souveraign remedy to cure or preserve ffrom these Epidemick diseases of vapours, should I add Laziness?—it would also fform such an Idea of England, add much to its Glory and Esteem in our minds and cure the evil Itch of overvalueing fforeign parts; at least ffurnish them with an Equivalent to entertain strangers when amongst us, Or jnform them when abroad of their native Country, which has been often a Reproach to the English, ignorance and being strangers to themselves. Nay the Ladies might have matter not unworthy their observation, soe subject for conversation, within their own compass in each county to which they relate, and thence studdy now to be serviceable to their neighbours especially the poor among whome they dwell, which would spare them the uneasye thoughts how to pass away tedious dayes, and tyme would not be a burthen when not at a card or dice table, and the ffashions and manners of fforeign parts less minded or desired. But much more requisite is it for Gentlemen in g^l service of their country at home or abroad, in town or country, Especially those that serve in parliament to know and jnform themselves y^e nature of Land, y^e Genius of the Inhabitants, so as to promote and improve Manufacture and trade suitable to each and encourage all projects tending thereto, putting in practice all Laws made for each particular good, maintaining their priviledges, procuring more as requisite; but to their shame it must be own’d many if not most are Jgnorant of anything but the name of the place for which they serve in parliament; how then can they speake for or promote their good or Redress their Grievances? But now I may be justly blamed to pretend to give acc: of our Constitution, Customs, Laws, Lect, matters farre above my Reach or capacity, but herein I have described what have come within my knowledge xieither by view and reading, or relation from others which according to my conception have faithfully Rehearsed, but where I have mistaken in any form or subject matter I easily submitt to a correction and will enter such Erratas in a supplement annext to y^e Book of some particulars since remark’d; and shall conclude with a hearty wish and recommendation to all, but Especially my own Sex, the studdy of those things which tends to Improve the mind and makes our Lives pleasant and comfortable as well as proffitable in all the Stages and Stations of our Lives, and render suffering and age supportable and Death less fformidable and a future State more happy.

CELIA FIENNES.

severall Journeys into severall parts of England with many Remarkes; some w^th my mother from Newtontony Wiltshire which is all on the downs a fine Champion Country pleasant for all sports, Rideing, Hunting, Courseing, Setting and shooteing. From Newtontony I went to Sarum 8 miles which is a Citty and Bishop’s Seat, pretty Large town Streetes broad but through y^e midst of them runs a little rivulet of water which makes y^e Streetes not so clean or so easye to pass in, they have stepps to Cross it and many open places for horses and Carriages to Cross itt—itt takes off Much from the beauty of y^e streetes—the Cause of it was from the burning of the old town called Salsebury which was on a hill about a mile off this and it was so drye and farre from springs that it was destroyed by fire and only the ruines of the Castle is to be seen like a high wall with fortifications: this town now Stands low by the water by a great River, the houses are old Mostly timber Buildings, there is a large Market House with the town hall over it and a prison Just by—there is also a large Cross in another place and house over it for a Constant Market for fruite, fowle, Butter and Cheese and a fish Market; the town is well served with all provissions; there is good buildings in that part they call the Close, both New built and y^e old 2good houses belonging to the doctors of the Church. Y^e Dean has a very good house and Gardens, so is the Bishop’s Palace at y^e end of a Row of trees—the roomes are lofty and Stately: all these houses are round y^e Cathedrall which is esteemed the finest in England in all respects, it only lyes low in a watry meadow so y^t the foundations is in the water, made of ffaggots and timber, yet notwithstanding its want of a Riseing ground to stand on y^e steeple is seen many miles off, the spire being so high it appeares to us below as sharpe as a Dagger, Yet is in the Compass on the top as bigg as a Cart wheele; its all stone and Carved finely with spires and Arches, there are severall doores into y^e Church, in the body of it stands the pulpet and seates on each side; there are two large Isle’s runnes up on either side; the font stands below opposite to the quire y^t enters w^th 2 or 3 steps assent from a large Cross Isle that leades to the Cloysters, in which is y^e Chapter house which is very large and supported only by one small stone Pillar in y^e middle, painted round the walls with figures Carved y^e whole accō: of the book of Genesis, the Windows are painted very finely—Much of the History of the Bible. There is as many little Chappels in the Church as months in a yeare, as many doores as weekes, as many Marble pillars as dayes, as many windows as houres, as many partitions in the windows as minutes in the year. The roofe of the Church is very lofty and exactly neate in all things though not so large as some other Cathedralls—the top of the Qoire is exactly painted and it lookes as fresh as if but new done though of 300 yeares standing—there is a very good organ and a deske for the reader raised so high even with the organ for y^e advantage of the voice to be heard, yet y^e Church is so lofty y^t y^e Eccos drowns y^e Intelligableness of the voice. The Comunion table, hangings and y^e booses are all of crimson velvet with gold fringe, 2 large Candlestickes gilt w^th great white tapers in them, a large gilt bason to receive y^e offerings in—there is many good monuments there, also there are ye Statues of the 3 bishops that built the Church cut in stone—there are two large fine monuments above y^e Rest—one all free stone for the lord George, 3his Effiges and ladyes att length on a bed in their Robes and ruffs on pillows, and y^e four pillars are twisted, and over it Angels, figures of birds, beasts, flowers and leaves very fine, there sits Justice w^th y^e ballance in her hand, one scale laying over y^e other twisted lookes very natural and well, with y^e wreathed work all in free stone with their Armes cut about in Escutheons all about it; the other is a monument for the Duke of Summerset all in marble, a large bed his Effigee in garment and ruff all in Coullours, his lady the same only she is laid one step above him because she was Daughter to the Dowager of ffrance and sister to Henry y^e 7^th of England by her second husband Charles brandon Duke of Suffolk.

There is y^e Effiges of their 2 sonnes, Lord Beachom at their head and Lord Seymour at y^e feete in Armour on their Knees, and severall Daughters on their knees at y^e bottom and 12 pillars of Irish gray marble. The Armes is cutt finely in Escutcheons &c. and in figures with y^e supporters and severall sorts of beasts carved in a piramide fashion, and on y^e top the Duke’s Corronet—these 2 monum^ts are railed in with Iron grates, there is the Effigee in stone off a doctor that starved himself to death attempting to imitate our Saviour to fast 40 dayes—but at 31 dayes end he became sensible of his evil and would have retrieved his life by eateing againe, but then by y^e Just judgment of god could not swallow any thing down his throate;—there is a chaple or burying place of Judge poppums that had two very wild sonnes and by 2 pictures of his sonnes, pictured one with death y^e other with a skeleton and set in y^e room they were to come into by their father’s order, it pleased God to bless as a meanes to reclaim them. Ye pictures are still there; the windows of the Church but especially y^e Quire are very finely painted and large of y^e history of y^e bible—the tower ffor y^e bells are in y^e yard at some distance from the Church—there are 6 Churches in the town and subburbs and y^e County Goal at y^e end of the town called ffisherton, just by the great river that runnes to Christ-Church in Salsebury. They keep the quarter session once in y^e yeare the oth^r tymes are kept at Malbrough about 24 mile off and at y^e 4Devises about y^e same distance w^ch is a very neate little town with a very good market house and town hall sett on stone pillars; it is a bourrough and a very rich tradeing place ffor the Clothing trade, the fourth place y^e session is kept is Warminster about y^e same distance—its a pretty little town a good Market for corn and there is the Mindiffe Coale which is allmost as good as the sea Coale from New-Castle that is dugg out of the hills all about;—But y^e Assizes is allwayes kept at Salsebury and is a Major town though Wilton about 2 mile off is y^e County town and y^e Knights of y^e shire are chosen there, though its now but as a little village as it were, and only supported by the Earle of Pembrooke which lives there and has a very ffine house with large Courts one within another. At y^e Entrance there is a lofty Hall with good Pictures, 3 or 4 dineing roomes and drawing roomes of State with very good bed Chambers and well furnished velvet damaske and tissue, one Gallery and y^e dineing roome was all wanscoated with pictures of y^e family—there is a drawing roome and Anti roome, y^e wanscoate is painted with y^e whole History of the Acadia romance made by S^r Philip Sidney, brother to the then Countess of Pembrooke and Composed by him in y^e ffine woods above y^e house.

Another room is painted w^th all sorts of sports, Hunting, Hawking &c.—they are all finely painted on the Ceiling and very lofty. there is one dineing roome y^t the Chimney is just under a window and the Tunnells runnes upon each side. there is one Chamber, the chimney stands Just by the window opposite to Salsebury, and on the black Marble Chimney piece soe finely polished you may see all the Cathedrall as in a Glass; I have seen it plaine. There are very fine Marble Chimney pieces in most of y^e roomes, and marble windows. The Gardens are very fine with many gravel walkes with grass squaires set with fine brass and stone statues—fish ponds and basons with ffigures in y^e middle spouting out water—dwarfe trees of all sorts and a fine flower garden—much wall fruite. Y^e river runns through y^e garden that easeily conveys by pipes water to all Parts.

A Grottoe is att y^e end of the garden just y^e middle off y^e 5house—its garnished with many fine ffigures of y^e Goddesses, and about 2 yards off the doore is severall pipes in a line that with a sluce spoutts water up to wett the strangers—in the middle roome is a round table and a large Pipe in the midst, on which they put a Crown or Gun or a branch, and so y^t spouts the water through y^e Carvings and poynts all round y^e roome at y^e Artists pleasure to wet y^e Company—there are figures at Each corner of y^e roome that Can weep water on the beholders and by a straight pipe on y^e table they force up y^e water into y^e hollow carving of y^e rooff like a Crown or Coronet to appearance but is hollow within to retaine y^e water fforced into it in great quantetyes y^t disperses in y^e hollow Cavity over y^e roome and descends in a Shower of raine all about y^e roome—on each side is two little roomes which by the turning their wires y^e water runnes in y^e rockes—you see and hear it and also it is so contrived in one room y^t it makes y^e melody of Nightingerlls and all sorts of birds w^ch engages y^e Curiosity of y^e Strangers to go in to see, but at y^e Entrance off each room is a line of pipes that appear not till by a Sluce moved—it washes y^e spectators designed for diversion.

Y^e Grottoe is leaded on y^e top where are fish ponds, and just without y^e grottoe is a wooden bridge over y^e river. Y^e barristers are set out w^th Lyons set thick on Either Side w^th their mouths open, and by a sluce spout out water each to other in a perfect arch y^e length of y^e bridge. There are fine woods beyond y^e house and a large parke walled in. From thence I went to Blandford in Dorsetshire 18 miles through a haire waring and a forest of y^e Kings.

Blandford is a pretty neate Country town. Thence to Merly by Wimborn over a great river Called the Stoure and a large Arched bridge to a Relations house, S^r William Constantines house—thence to Poole a little seaport town 4 miles off where was a very good Minister in y^e publick Church—M^r Hardy.

From thence we went by boate to a little Isle Called brownsea 3 or 4 leagues off where there is much Copperice made, the stones being found about y^e Isle in y^e shore in great quantetyes. there is only one house there 6w^ch is the Governours, besides little fishermen’s houses; they being all taken up about y^e Copperice workes; they gather y^e Stones and place them on ground raised like y^e beds in gardens, rows one above the other and are all Shelving, so y^t y^e raine disolves y^e Stones and it draines down into trenches and pipes made to receive and Convey it to y^e house, y^ch is fitted with Iron panns four square and of a pretty depth at least 12 yards over. They place Iron spikes in y^e panns full of branches and so as y^e Liquor boyles to a candy it hangs on those branches; I saw some taken up—it look’d like a vast bunch of grapes. Y^e Coullour of y^e Copperace not being much differing it lookes cleare like Suger-Candy—so when y^e water is boyled to a Candy they take it out and replenish the panns with more liquor. I do not remember they added anything to it only y^e Stones of Copperice disolved by y^e raine into liquor as I mention’d at first—there are great furnaces under, y^t Keepes all the panns boyling—it was a large room or building with Severall of these large panns: they do add old Iron and nailes to y^e Copperass Stones. This is a noted place for lobsters and Crabs and shrimps. I there eate some very good. From Merly we went to y^e Isle of Purbeck. At Warrum we passed over a bridge where y^e sea flowed in, and Came by y^e ruines of Corffe Castle which stands on a hill, yet surrounded by much higher hills y^t might easily command it, and so in y^e Civil warrs was batter’d down with Granadeers—thence you rise a great ascent of hills, called the Linch or rather y^e ridge, being so for 3 or 4 miles, rideing to Quare, which was 16 miles ffrom Merly to a relations house—Cos’n Colliers.

From this ridge you see all y^e Island over, which lookes very fruitfull, good lands, Meadows, woods and jnclosures—there are many quarys in these hills of y^t w^ch is called the free stone from hence they digg it—the shores are very Rocky all about y^e Island. We went 3 miles off to Sonidge a sea faire place not very big—there is a flatt sand by y^e sea a little way: they take up stones by y^e shores y^t are so oyly, as y^e poor burn it for ffire, and its so light a ffire it Serves for Candle too, but it has a strong offensive smell. At a place 4 mile off called Sea Cume the Rockes are so 7Craggy and y^e Creekes of land so many y^t y^e sea is very turbulent—I pick’d shells and it being a spring tide I saw y^e sea beat upon y^e Rockes at least 20 yards with Such a ffoame or ffroth—and at another place the rockes had so large a Cavity and Hollow y^t when y^e Sea flowed in, it runne almost round and Sounded like some hall or high arch. In this Island are severall pretty good houses though not very large. Att Kingston, S^r William Muese has a pretty house, and att Income M^r Coliffords—Doonshay, M^r Dollings and 7 mile off Quare. Att Finnum, lady Larences, there is a pretty large house but very old timber built: there I eate y^e best Lobsters and Crabs, being boyled in y^e Sea water and scarce Cold—very large and Sweet. Most of the houses in y^e Island are built of stone—this is Just by the great Cliffts w^ch are a vast height from y^e sea—here is plenty of provision of all sorts especially of fish. ffrom Finnum we ascend a high hill of a great length till you are out of y^e Island which does hardly appeare to be now an Isle, the tide having left it on this side that you passe only a little Brooke. There is another Castle called Brindon, but y^t lyes low and appears not much—thence we came to Piddle 6 or 7 miles off where was a relation—Mr Oxenbridg; an old house w^ch formerly was an abby—thence to Dorchester town 5 miles—it stands on y^e side of a Hill the river runnes below it—the town lookes Compact and the streetes are very neately pitch’d and of a good breadth—The Market-place is spaceious—The Church very handsome and full of galleries.

Thence we went to Burport about 8 miles—The wayes are stony and very narrow—the town has a steep hill to descend through the whole place—thence to Woolfe 4 miles to a relation—Mr Newbery a man of many whymseys—would keep no women servants—had all washing, Ironing dairy and all performed by men—his house look’s like a little village when you Come into y^e Yard—so many little buildings apart from each other—one for a stillitory—another for out houses and offices, another long building for Silk wormes, and y^e dwelling house is but mean and spoyl’d by his ffancy of makeing a hall up 3 storyes high and so 8lofty nothing suiteable to it. He had good gardens and orchards much good ffruite, but all in a most rude Confused manner. Thence we went to Colway neare Lime in Somersetshire about 8 miles to a relations house Mr Hendly’s—from thence it is 2 miles to Lime a seaport place open to the main ocean, and so high and bleake Sea, that to secure the Harbour for shipps they have been at a great Charge to build a Mold from the town with stone like a halfe Moon, w^ch they call the Cobb; its raised with a high wall and this runns into y^e Sea a good Compass that y^e Shipps rides safely within it, when the tide is out we may see the foundations of some part of it—that is the tyme they looke over it to see any breach and repaire it immediately, else y^e tide come with so much violence would soone beate it down—there is some part of it low and only is to joyne y^e rest to the land, and at high water is all Cover’d of such a depth of water that shipps may pass over it to enter the Cobb or halfe moone, which is difficult for fforeigners to attempt, being ignorant, though its better than goeing round the other way for those that know and do observe the tide—the spring tides and any Storme does some tymes beate up and wash over the walls of the forte or castle into the Court and so runns into the town, though at other tymes when its’ the ordinary tide and calme sea it is at least 300 yards from the banke on which the high wall is built—In most parts of somersetshire it is very fruitfull for Orchards, plenty of apples and peares, but they are not Curious in the Planting the best sort of fruite which is a great pitty, being so soone produced and such quantetyes, they are likewise as Careless when they make Cider—they press all sorts of Apples together, else they might have as good sider as in any other parts, even as good as the Herrifordshire—they make great quantetyes of Cider, their presses are very large, so as I have seen a Cheese as they call them which yeilded 2 hoddsheads—they pound their apples, then lay fresh straw on the press, and on that a good lay off Pulp of the apples, then turne in the ends of the straw over it all round and lay fresh straw, then more apples up to the top. Just by Lime you Cross a little brooke into Devonshire which is much like 9Somersetshire—fruitfull Country’s for Corn, graseing, much for inclosures that makes the wayes very narrow, so as in some places a Coach and Waggons Cannot pass—they are forced to Carry their Corn and Carriages on horses’ backes with frames of wood like pannyers on either side y^e horse, so load it high and tye it w^th Cords—this they do altogether the farther Westward they goe for y^e wayes grow narrower and narrower on to y^e lands end. They shewed me the Lizard point from Lime, it was a good distance—Y^e land grows narrower in a compass round, as it were round the sea. From lime the wayes are also difficult by reason of the very steep hill up and down, and that so successively as little or no plaine even ground, and full of large smooth pebbles that make the strange horses slip and uneasye to go—the horses of the Country are accustomed to it and travell well in the rodes—in y^e opener wayes they use a sort of waine or carriage made narrower than our Southern Waggon, but longer and so load them high—from Lime to Burport is 12 miles and so to Dorchester; thence to Blandford we pass over Woodbery hill eminent for a great Faire that is kept there of all things: the road passed by Cherbery—the foot of the hill on the Slope stands a pretty Seate of Mr Earles my relation—the house is new built on y^e brow of y^e hill whence you have large prospects of 20 mile round—you may see Shaftesbury thence 16 mile off—there is a good wood behind the house, good gardens wall’d with plenty of fruit, good fish and decoy pounds. There is a very good Hall at the entrance leads you to a large parlour and drawing room on y^e right hand that opens to the gardens—a very good little parlour on the left with servants room, and another parlour for smoakeing, all well wanscoated and painted and the offices convenient—the Chambers are good and lofty and sizeable—good ffurniture in the best 2 Chambers, in an angle the staires leads up halfe way into y^e middle of the house and so divides in four parts and runnes to each angle.

Thence 6 miles to Blandford, thence 18 to Salsebury and 8 mile to Newtontony which stands in y^e midst of y^e downs 8 mile from Andover a market town in Hampshire and y^e 10roade to London. It lyes 15 mile from Winchester—it is three mile from Amesbury and 2 mile more to Stoneage that stands on Salsebury plaine—eminent for many battles being faught there—this Stoneage is reckon’d one of the wonders of England how such prodigeous stone should be brought there, as no such Stone is seen in y^e Country nearer than 20 mile. They are placed on the side of a hill in a rude jregullar form—two stones stands up and one laid on their tops with morteses into each other and thus are severall in a round like a wall with spaces between, but some are fallen down, so spoyle the order or breach in the temple, as some think it was in the heathen tymes; others thinke it the Trophy of some victory wone by one Ambrosious, and thence the town by it has its name of Amesbury. There is severall rows of lesser stones within the others set up in the same forme of 2 upright and one lies on the top like a gateway. How they were brought thither or whether they are a made stone is not resolved—they are very hard yet I have seen some of them scraped—the weather seemes not to penetrate them. To increase the wonder of the story is that none Can Count them twice alike—they stand confused and some single stones at a distance but I have told them often, and bring their number to 91. This Country is most Champion and open, pleasant for recreations—its husbandry is mostly Corn and sheep, the Downs though short grass y^e feed is sweet, producing the finest wooll and sweet meat though but small.

The little towns or villages lies in the valleys and runs along in the bottom and are called Bourns having water running in most of them. From Stonidge I went to Evell in Somersetshire, thence to Meer a little town about 15 mile; by the town is a vast high hill called the Castle of Meer—its now all grass over and so steepe up that the ascent is by footsteps cut in the side of the hill. I was on the top where some had been digging and was come to a space that was Arched and the walls plaistred and washed white and smooth—it was but a little roome, I tooke a piece of its walls and plaister. That shews there may be Cells or vaults in the hill—from thence to Wincauton 7 11miles which is on a steep hill and very stoney—you go through the town all the way down as it were a steep precipice, all Rocks—thence to Castle Cary 3 or 4 miles—its generally a good fruitfull Country, much on jnclosures as is most of Summersetshire.

Thence to Alford 2 miles where was a minerall water which Company resorts to for drinking—formerly it has been more frequented than of late—many now send for them severall miles and have Beer brewed of them—there being no good accomodation for people of fashion, the Country people being a Clownish rude people. Y^e waters are mostly from Alom—its a Cleare little well and a quick spring—the bottom of the well has a sort of Blewish Clay or Marle, its a quick purger, good for all sharpe Humers or Obstruction. In three mile of this place is Queen Camell famous for a fine ring of bells and for the fine sort of brown thread called Nuns thread—as we returned from thence we came by Bruton a very neate stone built town—from it we ascend a very high steep hill all in a narrow Lane cut out of the rocks on which grow trees thick, their Roots runns amongst the rocks, and in many places fine Clean springs buble out, and run a long out of the rocks, it smells Just like the sea. we were full an hour passing that hill though with four horses and a Chariot. My sister self and Maid: thence to Willding which is a place of much water, so to Newtontony in all 30 miles.

Another Journey to the Bath, from Newtontony to Warminster 18 miles a good road town and good way; thence to Breackly 5 mile a Deep Clay way, we passed over one Common of some miles Length on a narrow Causy that a Coach can scarce pass, all pitched with slatts and stones—our Coach was once wedged in y^e wheele in the stones that severall men were forced to lift us out; its made only for Packhorses which is the way of Carriage in those parts. Y^e Common is so Moorish their feete and wheeles would sinke in, so no going there—thence to Philip Norton 3 miles a very neate stone built village. Thence you pass a good way between 2 stone walls to the bath, 5 mile down a very steep hill and stony, a mile from the town scarce any passing and there descends 12a little Current of water continually from the rocks. The wayes to the bath are all difficult, the town lyes Low in a bottom and its steep ascents all wayes out of the town. The houses are indifferent, the streetes of a good size well pitched. There are severall good houses built for Lodgings that are new and adorned, and good furniture, the baths in my opinion makes the town unpleasant, the aire so low, encompassed with high hills and woods. There is 5 baths the hot bath the most hot springs—its but small and built all round, which makes it y^e hotter—out of it runns the water into a bath called the Le pours.

The third bath is called the Cross bath w^ch is some thing bigger then the former and not so hot; the Cross in the middle has seates round it for y^e Gentlemen to sitt, and round the walls are Arches w^th seates for the Ladyes, all stone and the seate is stone and if you thinke the seate is too Low they raise it with a Coushon as they call it, another Stone, but indeed the water bears you up that y^e seate seemes as easy as a down Coushon. Before the Arch the Ladyes use to have a laced toilet hung up on the top of the Arch and so to shelter their heads even to the water if they please. You Generally sit up to the Neck in water, this Cross bath is much the Coolest and is used mostly in y^e heate of summer; there are Gallery’s round y^e top that y^e Company that does not Bathe that day walkes in and lookes over into y^e bath on their acquaintance and company—there are such a number of Guides to each bath of women to waite on y^e ladyes, and of men to waite on the Gentlemen, and they keepe their due distance. There is a serjeant belonging to y^e baths that all the bathing tyme walkes in galleryes and takes notice order is observed and punishes y^e rude, and most people of fashion sends to him when they begin to bathe, then he takes particular Care of them and Complements you every morning w^ch deserves its reward at y^e end of the Season. When you would walk about y^e bath I use to have a woman guide or two to Lead me for the water is so strong it will quickly tumble you down, and then you have 2 of the men guides goes at a distance about y^e bath to Cleare y^e way. At y^e sides of the Arches are rings that you may hold by and so walke a 13little way, but y^e springs bubbles up so fast and so strong and are so hot up against ye bottoms of ones feete, Especially in that they Call y^e Kitching in the bath, which is a great Cross with seates in y^e middle and many hot springs riseth there. The Kings bath is very large, as large as the rest put together, in it is the hot pumpe that persons are pumpt at for Lameness or on their heads for palsyes. I saw one pumpt, they put on a broad brim’d hatt w^th the Crown Cut out so as y^e brims Cast off y^e water from y^e face; they are pumpt in y^e bath, one of y^e men Guides pumps—they have two pence I thinke for 100 pumps. The water is scallding hot out of the pump, the armes or Legs are more easyly pumped. The Ladyes goes into the bath with Garments made of a fine yellow canvas, which is stiff and made large with great sleeves like a parsons gown; the water fills it up so that its borne off that your shape is not seen, it does not cling close as other linning, which Lookes sadly in the poorer sort that go in their own linning. The Gentlemen have drawers and wastcoates of the same sort of canvas, this is the best linning, for the bath water will Change any other yellow. When you go out of the bath you go within a doore that leads to Steps which you ascend by degrees that are in the water, then the doore is shut which shutts down into the water a good way, so you are in a private place where you still ascend severall more steps and let your Canvass drop of by degrees into the water, which your women guides take off, and the meane tyme your maides flings a garment of flannell made like a Nightgown w^th great sleeves over your head, and y^e guides take y^e taile and so pulls it on you Just as you rise y^e steps, and y^e other garment drops off so you are wrapped up in y^e flannell and your nightgown on y^e top, and your slippers and so you are set in Chaire which is brought into y^e roome w^ch are called slips, and there are Chimney’s in them, you may have fires. These are in severall parts of the sides of y^e bath for y^e Conveniency of persons going in and out of y^e bath decently, and at y^e top of y^e staires stands a woman y^t Layes a woollen Cloth for you to set your bare foot, and also to give you attendance. Y^e Chaires you go in are a low seate and w^th frames round and over y^r head and all 14cover’d inside and out w^th red bayes and a Curtaine drawn before of y^e same w^ch makes it Close and warme; then a Couple of men w^th staves takes and Carryes you to your lodging and sets you at y^r bedside where you go to bed and lye and sweate some tyme as you please. Y^r own maides and y^e maides of the house gets your fire and waites on you till you rise to get out of your sweate. All the baths has the same attendance, the queens bath is bigger then y^e other three but not and neare so big as y^e Kings, which do run into each other and is only parted by a wall and at one place a great arch where they run into each other. Y^e queens bath is a degree hotter than y^e Cross bath and y^e Kings bath much hotter, these have all gallery’s round and the pump is in one of these galleryes at y^e Kings bath which y^e Company drinks of, its very hot and tastes like y^e water y^t boyles Eggs, has such a smell, but y^e nearer y^e pumpe you drinke it, y^e hotter and less offencive and more spiriteous. The baths are all Emptyed as soone as the Company goes out, which is about 10 or 11 of y^e Clock in the morning; then by sluces they empty at once y^e bath so it fills againe. I have seen all y^e springs bubble up as thicke out of y^e ground when the baths have been empty. Y^e bottom is gravell. So they will be full for y^e evening if Company would go in againe, if so they empty them againe at Night and they are filled against y^e morning and there will be such a white scum on the bath w^ch y^e guides goes and scimms off Cleane before any Company goes in; if they go in while this scum is on it gives them the bath mantle as they call it, makes them breake out into heate and pimples; y^e like will be on them if they go into y^e bath before they have purged, especially in y^e hotter bath. Y^e places for divertion about y^e bath is either y^e walkes in that they call y^e Kings Mead which is a pleasant green meaddow, where are walkes round and Cross it, no place for Coaches, and indeed there is little use of a Coach only to bring and Carry y^e Company from y^e bath for y^e wayes are not proper for Coaches.

Y^e town and all its accomodations is adapted to y^e batheing and drinking of the waters and to nothing else, the streetes are well pitched and Cleane kept and there are 15Chaires as in London to Carry y^e better sort of people in visits, or if sick or infirme and is only in the town, for its so Encompassed with high hills few care to take the aire on them. There is also pleasant walkes in y^e Cathedrall in the Cloysters and y^t leades to y^e discription of the Coronation in this place at y^e bath y^e 23^d April w^ch I recieved y^e relation off from a spectatrix it being y^e day queen ann was Crowned, and is never performed unless when a queen is the Chiefe as Queen Elizabeth &c., her Sister our late Majesty’s King William and Queen Mary because the queen was Joyn’d in the throne as principle, they representing y^e Amazons consisting of the young Maids. The Companyes of the town being assembled at M^r Mayors house begin to proceed with their officers masters and wardens and each Company with their flag—After marched in a troupe y^e Maides of the suburbs each with their proper officers of themselves, as Captⁿ Ensigne and lieutenant w^th plummes of feathers. Just before y^e captⁿ went her guard which was 6 young men drest in their holland shirts, with garters, and Ribons in their hatts, and their swords drawn in their hands, then the captⁿ in her short wastecoate with gold lace, and their peticoates silke y^t were with furbellows ode above anoth^er with Ribons, w^th a trunchant in their hand w^th an inscription, God save queen Ann. Just behinde their Captaines went two Maides with two scepters gilt, next them two more y^t bore the crown between them w^ch was gilt, also their Ensigne. Their flag w^ch holds the same inscription God save queen Ann was guarded by two young Men drest as y^e others in their holland shirts: then the troupe followed in order in same dress as their officers with Crowns on their heads of Guilded Lauwrell, in Number about 100; next came y^e Citty Maides w^th their Majoress Generall with their plummes of feather with a wreath of Gilded Lawrell like a Crown, and on y^e top w^th all sorts of pretious stones y^e Jewellers shops Could supply them w^th and were guarded w^th young men as y^e others; behind y^e Majoress followed six all in white with a green Cross swathe with this inscription in white God save queen Ann each with their Trunchant in their hands as y^e former, and two carrying 2 scepters gilt, and after them two more y^e 16Crown between them, w^ch was very rich in pearles; then two more carryed y^e queens Armes between them, their dress was just as y^e first were only much richer and finer and all of them gather’d up y^e upper peticoate in little scallops just to shew their under peticoates w^ch were white. Y^e troupe of y^e amazans in order w^th their bows and arrows w^th Crowns of Gilded Lawrel, their officers had plumes of feathers and their Serjeants with their halberts, their number was also about 100.

Next after followed all y^e young men of y^e town form’d into a Company of Granadeers w^th their proper officers w^ch had laced hatts and plumes of feathers; each soldier had a red cap w^th Cyphers and a Crown gilt w^th gold and furbelowed with blew round their head; their hair was tyed back with scarlet ribon, they had scarlet garters and scarlet slings for their gunns; drest all in their holland shirts and white stockings and had a hanger by their sides. their number was about 30. Next followed four couple of Maurice dancers with their pranceing horses, in holland shirts with laced hatt riboned, and Cross swashes and garters w^th bells, w^th their two antiques drest in their formalityes, w^th hankershiefs in their hands danceing all y^e way.

Next walked y^e Clergy, then next followed M^r Major with two pages attending him, followed by the Corporation aldermen all in their scarlet gowns, and the common Councill in their gowns. Next followed in y^e reare all y^e marryed men formed into a Company of Artilery, their hatts Laced, with plumes of feathers all in their own Cloths:

Ye Soldiers y^e Same w^th Swords and gunns w^th two Blunderbusses; every Company both of men and women was attended by drums and all sort of musick both wind and stringed instruments.

Thus they repaired to y^e Cathedrall, Y^e granadeers salutes them Just as they enter the Abby with a volly of shott, and there they have a sermon and as they come out of the Cathedrall y^e Company of artillery salutes them againe with another volly, so in the same order they return to their Guild Hall where is a sumptuous feast w^th Musick and danceing w^ch Ends y^e solemnity w^th bonfires as is usual.

17 I now proceed to describe the rest of the town. there are green walkes very pleasant and in many places, and out of the Cathedrall you walk into y^e priory which has good walkes of rows of trees, which is pleasant—there are y^e deans prebends and doctors houses which stand in y^t green which is pleasant, by y^e Church called the Abby, w^ch is lofty and spacious and much Company walke there especially in wet weather. Y^e Quire is neat but nothing extraordinary—in that Kings mead there are severall little Cake-houses where you have fruit lulibubs and sumes Liquours to entertaine y^e Company that walke there.

The markets are very good here of all sorts of provision flesh and ffish especially when the season for y^e Company batheing and drinking lasts, great plenty and pretty reasonable. The Chargeableness of the bath is y^e Lodgings and fireing, the ffaggotts being very small, but they give you very good attendance there.

Another Journey I went with my mother into Oxfordshire, by Barkshire to Hungerford 16 mile, which is famous for Crawfish there being a good river and great quantityes of y^t fish and large.

This is in Barkshire, thence to Lamborn w^ch is a woody Country 7 miles, thence to ffarington 7 mile a pretty large place but lyes very watry, and so by Radcote 5 miles, w^ch is much y^e same deep Countryes much on Clay; by ffarington is a fine house of S^r George Pratt’s Called Coalsell. All y^e avenues to y^e house are fine walkes of rows of trees, y^e garden lyes in a great descent below y^e house of many steps and terresses and walkes one below another, a green walke with all sorts of Dwarfe trees, fruit trees with standing apricot and flower trees, abundance of garden roome and filled with all sorts of things improved for pleasure and use. The house is new built with stone, most of y^e offices are partly under ground—Kitchin, Pantry, buttlery and good Cellers and round a Court is all y^e other offices and out houses; this is all even with y^e back yards. The Entrance of y^e house is an ascent of severall steps into a hall so lofty the rooff is three storyes, reaches to y^e floore of y^e gallery—all the walls are Cutt in hollows where statues and Heads 18Carved ffinely are sett, Directly fore-right Enters a large Dineing roome or great parlour, which has a door thourough into the garden y^t gives a visto through y^e house: within y^t is a drawing room, on y^e other side another roome of the same size, and backward is a little parlour all with good ffurniture, tapistry, Damaske, &c. There runs up a p^r of back Staires at each end of the house quite to y^e top to the gallery which does make convenient all y^e Chambers. The great Staires goes out of the hall on each side, spacious and handsom staires runs up and meetes on the landing place, w^ch is a passage that runs on both sides to each end of the house, but is made private by two doores on each side: on the top of the staires you enter in y^e midle into a dineing roome, within that a Chamber on each side with two Closets to each bigg Enough for a little bed, with Chimney’s convenient for a servant and for dressing roomes, one of which has a doore also out into that passage and soe to the back staires; this is y^e same on y^e other end, and also two roomes on y^e other side, each end of y^e hall which continues to run up even with the second story, which are all good Chambers, and one more here because the great staires goe but to y^e first story: they are all well and Genteel’ly furnisht, damaskes Chamlet and wrought beds ffashionably made up. Over this runs a gallery all through the house, and on each side severall garret roomes for servants ffurnished very neate and Genteele, in y^e middle are staires y^t Lead up to the Cupilow or large Lanthorn in the middle of the leads. Y^e house being Leaded all over and the stone Chimney’s in severall rows Comes up in them on each side y^e Cupilow, it shewes exact and very uniform, as is y^e whole Building. This gives you a great prospect of gardens, grounds and woods that appertaine to y^e Seate, as well as a sight of the Country at a distance. There was few pictures in the house only over doores and Chimney’s; the hall was paved with black and whyte marble and had seates round the roome cut in arches on the walls. From thence Oxfordshire we enter over the Vale of the White horse w^ch takes its name from a Ridge of high hills on which is Cutt out the shape off a horse in perfect proportions in broad wayes, 19and is seen a great distance very plaine, the hills being on Chalke look’s white and the great valley in the bottom is term’d the Manger; it extends a vast way, a rich jnclosed Country, and we pass through some part of Glocestershire at Norton where is another seat of my Brother Say’s—thence to Broughton by Banbery which is 25 mile.

Broughton is an ancient Seate of y^e Lord viscount Say and Seale; its an old house moted round, and a parke and Gardens, but are much left to decay and ruine when my brother Came to it. He has two other houses in two or three Miles, Shettford a little neate house and gardens, and Newton, but that is mostly pulled down. From Broughton I went to see Edgehill where was the ffamous Battle ffought in Cromwell’s tyme—its 10 mile off, the Ridge of hills runns a great length and so high that the land beneath it appeares vastly distant, its a rich ground full of inclosures and lookes finely, tho’ fformidable to look down on it and turnes one’s head round—the wind allwayes blows w^th great violence there because of the Steepeness of y^e hills. The top is a flatt full of Barrows and hills that are markes of a Camp and battles.

About 2 mile from Broughton is a great old house much like Broughton; its S^r Robert Dashwoods—most of the great houses there about are old built. About three mile off at Adderbery w^ch is a pretty neate vilage, there are two or three good houses one of S^r Thomas Cobbs and Lady Rochesters looks neate and well with good gardens.

There is about 2 mile off the Lord Guilffords house Roxton which is a good house within a parke. You enter a large hall, on the left hand leads to a little parlour down to y^e Kitchins, the halfe pace att the upper end of the hall leads into dineing roome, drawing roome, and a large staire-case with good pictures; there you enter another large dineing roome with great Compass windows and fine Pictures of the family. Within is a drawing roome and Chambers and Closets well proportioned, little or no ffurniture was up, only in y^e worst roomes; in one Closet att each doore was Queen Mary and Queen Elizabeth’s pictures to the ffoote in bibb and apron very pretty: in one roome was the Lord 20North and Ladyes picture, which was Lord Chiefe Justice and their sonnes picture in the middle, all at length,—many good Pictures in most roomes. There was a part new built all the new ffashion way which was designed for the present Lord Gilford and Lady. The Gardens are very good, the outhouses and Stables handsome.

Banbury is a pretty little town, the streets broad and well pitched, the whole Country is very pleasant and the land rich—a red earth. They make some of their fences with stones—dry walls without Morter. It seemes much on a flatt and you have a large prospect, from thence to London we go by Alesbury 20 mile, thence to London 30 mile.

A journey my mother went from Newtontony to Durly in the fforest 15 miles, thence to Nurstead 15 mile to a Relations house, (Aunt Holts,) a neate new built house with brick and stone—a hall, little parlour on y^e left side, a back door into a Court built round with all the offices out to y^e stables and barnes: on the right side a great parlour and drawing roome y^t opened into the garden w^ch were fine gravel walks, grass plotts and beyond it a garden of flower trees and all sorts of Herbage, store of fruit, and freestone broad walke in y^e Middle to y^e house. Y^e Chambers are very good and Convenient and in y^e ffront is a place walled in, beyond is a long ground sett with rows of trees; on y^e right side of y^e house is a large grove of firrs halfe scotts halfe norroway which lookes very nobly. The roades all about this Country are very stony, narrow and steep hills or else very dirty as in most of Sussex, but good rich land; it is in 2 mile of petersffield in Hampshire w^ch is a good little neate town. In a mile of it is a Gentlemans house Called Maple Duram which Might now be new named into yew, ffor the great number of yew trees set thick in severall green walkes that grows high and is cutt close to the body up almost to the top, and y^e tops are left in a great head that spreads and makes it very shady and pleasant. From thence we went to Guilford w^ch is a good town built with stone. The streetes are broad—thence to Kingston on the Thames 30 mile thence to London 10 mile, from London againe to Colebrooke 15 miles, thence to Maidenhead 10. You go in sight of Winsor Castle on 21the left hand and Eaton Colledge as you pass the bridge at Maidenhead, and on y^e right hand you see Cliffton house a fine Building of y^e Duke of Buckingams. Thence to Redding 5 miles w^ch is a pretty large place, severall Churches, in one lyes buried one of my sisters that Dyed at my Grandmothers there of the small pox, her monument of white marble stands up in the Chancell. From Redding to the Veale 5 miles, Sad Clay Deep way this is in Barkshire, thence to Newbery 8 mile all Clay Mirey ground.

Newbery is a little town famous for makeing the best whipps—its a good market for Corn and trade. Thence to Newtontony over Way hill famous for a Faire kept there on Michelmas day.

My journey to London after my Mothers death was by Sutton 14 mile thence to Baseing stoke 12 mile, a large town for to Entertaine travellers and commodious, 2 mile beyond we pass by Basen on the left side, a house of the Duke of Boltons w^th a large parke and gardens. Y^e house is not fine being much demolished and spoyled after the Civil warres, it being a garrison held by y^e King. On the right hand at a mile distance you come in sight also of a great building like a little town—the house of S^r Robert Hendlys; so to Hartffordbridge is 8 mile more thats only a place full of jnns for the conveniency of the road. Thence over a heath you go to Bagshott that is 8 mile all on a heavy sand where you come by a parke of y^e kings, and in it is a pretty house—thence to Eggum 8 mile very heavy sand, so to Staines where you cross the Thames on a bridge to Midlsex and so to Houndslow 4 mile, to Brandford 4 mile, to Turnumgreen 2, thence to Hammersmith 2 to Kensington 2 and London 2 miles.

Another journey ffrom London to Alsebury 30 mile, from thence to great Horrwood in Buckinghamshire 10 miles, from thence I went to Hillsdon a house of Mr Dentons 7 miles which stands on a Riseing in the middle of a fine Parke and lookes very well; its not large, a good hall w^th 2 parlours and has a glide through the house into the gardens w^ch are neately kept—the grass and Gravel walkes w^th dwarfs and flower beds and much fruit; the prospect is fine all over 22the gardens and parke, and the river and woods beyond them. We went to Thorndon S^r Thomas Tyrrells, a good old house and very good gardens, some walkes like Arbours Close, others shady others open, some gravel, others grass with Cyprus’ trees, a fine river runnes all the back side of the garden, where is very good ffish. The house is low but runnes much on the ground, so there are many roomes w^ch are lofty but its not built in many storyes. Thence we went 4 mile to Stow S^r Rich^d Temples new house that stands pretty high. You enter into a hall very lofty with a gallery round the top, thence through to a great parlour that opens in a Bellcony to the garden, and is a visto thro’ the whole house, so that on the one side you view the gardens w^ch are one below another w^th low breast walls and Taress walkes, and is replenished with all y^e Curiosityes or Requisites for ornament, pleasure and use, beyond it are orchards and woods with rows of trees; on the other side you see y^e parke rowes of trees; the roomes are all lofty and good, the hall is not large but sutable to its height—a great many Chambers and roomes of state. Some the ground floores are inlaid, ffine Pictures and good staircase and gallery w^ch leads to the Ledds through a large Cupelow w^ch gives y^e prospect of the whole Country. We went to horrwood 7 mile, by severall other seates of S^r Ralph Verny’s who has most exact ffine gardens: within two mile off Horrwood is a well of minerall waters from Iron just like Tunbridg and as good. I dranke them a fortnight—there are severall of the same sort of springs all about that Country. Thence I went to Buckinghamtown 7 mile, a very neate place and we passed the river Ouise over a very high bridge tho’ the river seemed not then so very full, but it swells after great raines which makes them build their arches so large. Thence to Banbury in Oxfordshire 13 miles, thence to morton Hindmost in Glocestershire 14 miles, thence to Hales 8 miles over steep stony hills, a house of Lord Tracy’s where my brother Say lived—a good old house, and there is a pretty Chappel with a Gallery ffor people of quality to sitt in w^ch goes out of the hall that is a lofty large roome: good parlour and severall good lodging roomes. You ascend into the house by 23Severall stone stepps. Within 2 mile of this is a better house of y^e Lord Tracy with a very good parke which stands so high that by the Lodge I rode up y^e banks I could see all the parke about and y^e deer feeding and running.

There is a little river and large ponds—it gives you a good sight of the Country about, w^ch is pretty much inclosed and woods a rich deep Country and so the roads bad. There are severall high hills that I was on that gave a large prospect to y^e eye. I saw some of this land improved in the produce of woods w^ch y^e dyers use—its ordered in this manner, all the Summer season if drie for 4 or 5 months they sow it or plant it, but I thinke its sown—then its very Clean wedd when grown up a little out of y^e ground, for it rises no higher then Lettice and Much in such tuffts; y^e Coullour off y^e Leafe is much like Scabins and the shape Resembling that: this they Cutt of Close to y^e ground and soe out of y^e same roofe Springs the Leafe againe, this they do 4 tymes, then in a Mill w^th a horse they Grind the Leaves into a paste, so make it up in balls and drye them in a Penthouse to secure it from raine—only the wind dryes it. This plantation of about 12 acres would Employ 2 or 3 ffamilyes Men, Women and Children, and so they Generally Come and Make little hutts for themselves for y^e Season to tend it.

Here I saw flax In the growth. The smell of the Woode is so strong and offencive you can scarce beare it at y^e Mill: I could not fforse my horse neare it.

ffrom thence I returned. Backe by a place where is a stone stands to Divide ffour shires—Worcester, Oxford Glocester and Warwickshire—so I ascended there a high hill and travaill’d all on y^e top of y^e hills a pleasant and a good Roade. I came to Rowle Stone where are many such greate stones as is at Stonidge, one stands uppright, a broad Stone Called the King’s Stone, being the place a Saxon King was secured against his enemies; thence to Broughton in all 26 miles. Thence I went to Astrop where is a Steele water Much ffrequented by y^e Gentry, it has some Mixture of Allum so is not so strong as Tunbridge. 24There is a ffine Gravell Walke that is between 2 high Cutt hedges where is a Roome for the Musick and a Roome for y^e Company besides y^e Private walkes. The well runnes very quick, they are not Curious in keepeing it, neither is there any bason for the spring to run out off only a dirty well full of Moss’s which is all Changed yellow by the water. There are Lodgings about for y^e Company and a little place Called Sutton. this is four mile, thence to Oxfford 14 mile all in a very good Road and an exceeding pleasant Country. You pass by many ffine seates, Park’s, woods, the Land in Most part of this County is Rich Red Mould and deepe so as they are forced to Plough their Ground 2 or 3 tymes for wheate and Cannot use Wheeles to their Ploughs, its rich Land and produces plenty of all things.

Oxford opens to view 2 mile off, its Scituation is ffine on a Round hill Environ’d Round with hills adorn’d with Woods and Enclosures, yet not so neare as to annoy y^e town which stands pleasant and Compact. There is a ffine Causy for neare two mile by the Road for the Schollars to walke on, y^e Theater stands the highest of all and much in y^e middle Encompass’d with y^e Severall Colledges and Churches and other Buildings whose towers and Spires appeares very Well at a Distance; the Streetes are very Cleane and well Pitched and pretty broad. The high Streete is a very Noble one, soe Larg and of a Greate Length. In this is y^e University Church Called S^t Maryes, which is very large and Lofty but Nothing very Curious in it. The Theater is a Noble Pile of building, its Paved with Black and White Marble, exceeding Large and Lofty, built Round and Supported by its own architecture all stone, noe pillars to support it; itt has windows all round and full of Gallery’s ffor the Spectators as well as Disputants when y^e acts are at Oxford. Over the Rooff of this Large Roome are as Large roomes with Severall Divissions which are Used for the Drying the Printed Sheetes of bookes, and this has Light in Ovalls which is quite Round the Theater and in the Middle is a large Cupelow or Lanthorne Whence your Eye has a very ffine view of y^e whole town and Country; 25this is all Supported on its own work. Under the theater is a roome w^ch is ffitted for printing, where I printed My name Severall tymes. The outside of y^e theater there is a pavement and spikes of Iron in a Raile round with pillars of stone to secure it from the street. Just by it is a little building w^ch is full of Antiquityes w^ch have many Curiositys in it of Mettles, Stones, Ambers, Gumms.

There is the picture of a Gentleman y^t was a Great benefactor to it being a travailer; the fframe of his picture is all wood carved very finely with all sorts of figures, Leaves, birds, beast and flowers. He gave them 2 ffine gold Meddals or Silve gilt w^th two ffine great Chaines of the same, one was all curious hollow worke w^ch were given him by some prince beyond the Sea. There is a Cane which looks like a Solid heavy thing but if you take it in yo^r hands its as light as a feather, there is a Dwarfe shoe and boote, there are several Loadstones, and it is pretty to See how y^e steele Clings or follows it, hold it on the top att some distance the needles stand quite upright, hold it on either side it moves towards it as it rises and falls.

There are several good Colledges I saw most of y^m. Waddom hall is but little; in Trinity Colledge is a fine neate Chapple, new made, finely painted. Christ Church is y^e largest Colledge. The Courts large, y^e buildings large and lofty; in one of the Courts is a tower new built for to hang the Mighty Tom, that bell is of a Large size, so great a Weight they were forced to have engines from London to raise it up to the tower. There is a fine ring of bells in y^e Colledge S^t Magdalines, its just by the river, there is to Maudline Hall (which is a very large and good Cloyster) a very fine gravell walk, two or 3 may walke abreast, and Rows of trees on either side, and this is round a water w^ch Makes it very pleasant.

S^t Johns Colledge had fine gardens and walkes but I did but just look into it, so I did into kings, and queens Colledges, and severall of the rest I looked into, they are much alike in building but none so large as Christ Church Colledge. I was in New Colledge w^ch is very neate, but not large, the buildings good, Y^e Chapple very fine; Ye Garden 26was new makeing, there is a large bason of water In the Middle there is little walkes and mazes and round mounts for the schollars to divert themselves.

In Corpus Christus Colledge w^ch is but small there I was entertained at supper and eate of their very good bread and beare which is remarkably the best anywhere Oxford Bread is.

The Physick garden afforded great diversion and pleasure, the variety of flowers and plants would have entertained one a week. The few remarkable things I tooke notice off was y^e Aloes plant w^ch is like a great flag in shape, leaves and Coullour, and grows in the fform of an open Hartichoake and towards the bottom of each Leafe its very broad and thicke, In w^ch there are hollows or receptacles for y^e Aloes.

There is also y^e sensible plant, take but a Leafe between finger and thumb and squeeze it and it immediately Curles up together as if pained and after some tyme opens abroad again, it looks in Coullour like a filbert Leafe but much narrower and long. There is also the humble plant that grows on a long slender Stalke and do but strike it, it falls flatt on y^e ground stalke and all, and after some tyme revives againe and Stands up, but these are nice plants and are kept mostly under Glass’s, y^e aire being too rough for them. There is y^e wormwood sage Called Mountaigne sage, its to all appearance like Comon sage only of yellower green, a narrow long Leafe full of ribbs; In yo^r Mouth the flavour is strong of Wormwood to the taste. The library is as large as 2 or 3 roomes but old and a little disreguarded except one part w^ch is parted from the rest, wansecoated and fitted up neate and painted which was done by King james y^e Second wⁿ he designed Maudling Colledg for his priests A Seminary. Here I met w^th some of my relations who accompanyed me about to see some of the Colledges I had not seen before, S^t John’s Colledge which is large and has a ffine Garden at one Entrance of it with Large Iron-gates Carved and Gilt; its built round two Courts: the Library is two walks, one out of the other the inner one has severall Anatomy’s in Cases and some other Curiosity of Shells, stone, bristol Diamonds, skins of ffish and beasts. Here they have 27the Great Curiosity Much spoken off King Charles the ffirsts Picture; Y^e whole Lines of fface band and garment to the Shoulders and armes and garter is all written hand and Containes the whole Comon prayer, itts very small the Character, but where a straight Line is you May read a word or two; there is another of Gustaus Adolphus whose portraiture is represented to the Eye in writeing alsoe and Contains his whole Life and prowess; there is alsoe the Lord’s prayer and ten Commandments in the Compass of a Crown piece; there are also Severall books all of writing on vellum Leaves, and one book written in y^e Chinease Caractor on the jndian barks off trees; there is alsoe a Book of the Genealogies of the Kings since the Conquest to King Charles the Second, with the Severall Coates all Gilded very fresh till the two or three Last w^ch is pretended to be difficient from the art being Lost of Laying Gold so ffine on anything to polish it, but thats a great Mistake for that art is still in use in England, but the Excuse served the Negligence or jgnorance of the workman; there was alsoe One book w^th severall Cutts in it off y^e Conception of Christ till his Ascention. There was alsoe a ffine prayer book or Mass book of Q. Marias, this was in the new part of the Library which was neately wanscoated and adorned. There is a ffine grove of trees and walks all walled round.

Queens Colledge Library is all new and a stately building Emulating that of Christ Church in Cambridge, it is not so large and stands on one range of Pillars of stone, the other ffront being all with Statues in Stone, in Nitches and Carved adornements and on the tops ffigures and statues. The Staircase is pretty broad but not so ffinely wanscoated or Carved as that at Cambridge, the roomes is Lofty, but not so large, Well Wanscoated and there is good Carvings; its Mostly full of Books in the severall divisions and great Globes, its boarded Under foot, there is no ballcoany because the prospect is but to a dead wall, its very handsom.

Trinity Colledge Chapple which was not ffinish’d the Last tyme I was at Oxford but now it is a Beautifull Magnifficent Structure. Its Lofty and Curiously painted—the Rooffe and Sides y^e history of Christ’s ascention a 28very ffine Carving of thin white wood just Like that at Windsor it being the same hand. The whole Chappel is Wanscoated with Walnut tree and the fine sweet wood y^e same y^t y^e Lord Oxfford brought over when high admiral of England, and has wanscoated his hall and staircase with. It is sweet like Cedar and of a Reddish Coull^r, but y^e graine much ffiner and well vein’d.

New Colledge which belongs to the ffiennes’s, William of Wickam the founder, so I look’d on myself as some way a little Interested in that, here I was very handsomly Entertained by M^r Cross w^ch was one of my nephew Say and Seale’s Tutors when at Oxfford. These ffellowshipp in New Colledge are about 100 say and a very pretty appartinent of Dineing Roome, bed Chamber, a studdy and a room for a Servant, tho’ y^e Serviteurs of the Colledge gives attendance; and here they may Live very Neatly and well if Sober and have all their Curiosityes they take much delight in, greens of all sorts, Myrtle, oringe and Lemons and Lorrestine growing in potts of Earth and so moved about from place to place and into the aire sometymes. There are severall New Lodgings added and beautifyed here, the Gardens also w^th gravell and Grass walkes, some shady and a great mount in the Middle w^ch is ascended by Degrees in a round of Green paths deffended by greens cutt Low, and on y^e top is a summer house. Beyond these Gardens is a bowling-green and round it a Close shady walke, walled round and a Cutt hedge to the bowling-green.

There are in Oxford 18 Colledges and Six halls viz. New Colledge, Christ Church, Martin Colledge, Corpus Christy Colledge, Magdalen Colledge, University Coll, Pembroke Colledge, Linghorn Colledge, which is overlook’t by the Devil, Brasen-nose Colledge, Wadham Colledge, Queens Colledge, Belial Colledge, Orrel Colledge, Trinity Colledge, Exetter Colledge, All-souls Colledge, Jesus Colledge, S^t Johns Colledge,—halls 7 viz Alben hall, Maudlin hall, Newin hall, Hart Hall, Glocester hall, S^t Mary hall, and Edmond hall. There is a very odd Custom In Queen Coll. for every new-years-day, there is a Certain Sum Laid out In Needles and thread w^ch was Left by y^e founder and every Gentleman of 29that Colledge has one given him w^th these words: Take this and be thrifty.

In New Colledge Garden in y^e plott there is y^e Colledg Armes Cutt in box and y^e 24 Letters round it.

Next plott a sun-dial cutt in box and true-Lovers knotts; att y^e entrance of y^e Colledge over y^e gate is the ffiennes’s and y^e Wickhams Arms Cutt in stone Sett up there by my Nephew Say when he was at y^e Colledge before his travels. There is a large stone statue in the Middle of y^e first quadrangle of William of Wickhams y^e ffounder, railed in w^th Iron Grates.

In y^e Library are y^e pictures of some of y^e learned men w^ch belonged formerly to the University.

From Oxford I went to Abington and Cross’d y^e River Thames on a bridge att y^e end of y^e town and so Entered into Barkshire and rode along by y^e thames side a good way, w^ch was full of Barges and Lighters—its 6 mile to Abington. Before I proceed will Insert y^e names of y^e ffounders of y^e halls and Colledges in Oxford. University Colledge was founded by King Alfred. Baliol Coll. was founded by John and David Baliol, Merton Coll. by Walter de Mert, Exetter Coll. by Walter Stapleton, Oriel Colledge by King Edward the second, Queen Coll. by Robert Egglesfield, New Colledge by W^m of Wickham, Lincoln Colledge by Richard Fleming, All souls Coll. by Henry Chicklay Magdalin Coll. by W^m Wainfleet, Brason-nose Coll. by W^m Smith, and Rich^d Sutton, Corpus-Christy Coll. by Rich^d fox, Christ-Church Coll. by Henry y^e eight, Trinity Colledge by Tho. Pope, S^t Johns Coll. Thomas white, Jesus Colledge by Queen Elizabeth, Wadham Coll. by Nicholas and Dorothy Wadham, Pembrooke Coll. by Thomas Feisdale and Rich^d Whitewick, Hart Hall by Walter Stapleton, S^t Mary Hall by King Edward the 2^d, Newin Hall by W^m of Wickham, Magdalen Hall by W^m of Wainfleet, Gloster Hall by thomas White, Alton Hall by y^e abbess of Alban, St Edmond Hall by y^e arch Bishop of Canterbury.

From thence I went to Abington. Abington town seemes a very well built town and the Market Cross is the ffinest in England, its all of free stone and very Lofty; Even ye 30Isles or Walk below is a Lofty arch on severall Pillars of square Stone and four square Pillars: over it are Large Roomes with handsome windows, above w^ch is some Roomes with Windows and Little Like the Theatre att Oxford only this is a Square building and that round, it makes a very ffine appearance.

From thence I went to Elsly 8 mile farther, a little Market town, good Inns thence Newbury. Most of this way is much on Downs and good Roads, its 7 mile to Newbury where I called on an old acquaintance Marryed to a tradesman M^r Every, who is so Like the Minister his Uncle y^t was my acquaintance. Here I staid an hour and then proceeded on to Basenstoke 12 long miles, being my ready road to Chichister, and from Basenstoke to Alton 8 mile and from thence to Petersffield and to Nurstead 11 long Miles, this was in Hampshire so was Basenstoke: here I lay at a Relations House M^r Holt that marry’d My Mothers sister. From thence I went to Chichester through a very ffine Parke of the Lord Tankervailes, stately woods and shady tall trees at Least 2 mile, in y^e Middle stands his house w^ch is new built, square, 9 windows in y^e ffront and seven in the sides. Brickwork w^th free stone coynes and windows, itts in the Midst of fine gardens, Gravell and Grass walks and bowling green, w^th breast walls Divideing each from other, and so discovers the whole to view. Att ye Entrance a Large Coart w^th Iron gates open w^ch Leads to a less, ascending some stepps, ffree stone in a round, thence up More Stepps to a terrass, so to the house; it looks very neate and all orchards and yards convenient. Thence I entered into Sussex and soe Chichester, w^ch is 12 miles. This is but a Little Citty Encompass’d with a wall w^th 4 gates which Casts the two streetes directly across each other and so Lookes through from Gate to Gate, one Streete does, the other it seemes did so formerly, but in new building of some of their houses they have encroach’d into the Streete and so hinders the through visto. In Midst of these 2 or 4 streetes Divided by the Market place is a very faire Cross of Stone Like a Church or greate arch, its pretty Large and pirramydy form w^th severall Carvings. The 31Cathedrall is pretty Lofty, y^e painting on y^e Roofe in the quire and Isles Looked very ffresh tho’ 300 yeares old, there is in the jsle on y^e roofe y^e phaney of 6 faces joyned and 6 eyes and yet each face has two eyes and in another place the faces turned outward and so the 6 faces are 12 eyes. The Quire is good, there is a fixed pulpit in it overight y^e Bishops seate w^ch is not usual, I never saw it before—Usually they have pulpits that are Moveable.

There is a faire Organ and another pulpit in y^e body of the Church, there is also an entire Church in y^e Cathedral by it self w^ch is y^e parish Church. There are in all 6 parishes and so many Churches besides y^e Cathedrall. Over the alter is painted glass Chequer’d blew white and Red, so deepe the Coull^r is struck into the Glass as makes it darkish, in one of the Isles is a square place, on each side y^e Wall is filled with y^e Kings pictures from y^e Conquest to their present Majestyes; there is also one Picture pretty Large of a Saxon King in his Robes and an abbott with his brethren, petitioning to build this Cathedrall which before belonged to y^e Isle of Ely where was y^e Bishops see. There is also one large Picture of another Bishop petitioning King Harry y^e 8^th to ffinish and paint y^e Church. On y^e other side the wall is filled up w^th y^e severall abbots and Bishops since ye Conquest that have been of Chichester. In their advancement they are brought from Bristol to Chichester and next advance is to Ely and so on to greater revenues. The tower is 260 odd steps, from whence you may see the whole town. There are 3 or 4 good New houses, one is y^e Dean’s, Mr Edds, a very good man; from thence I saw y^e Isle of Wight, Spitthead; the sea comes within a mile of ye Citty, Remarkable for Lobsters and Crabs Chichester is. There is an Engine or Mill about a Mile off the town draws up salt water at one side from the sea and fresh water from a Little rivulet w^ch descends from a hill, and so supply’s y^e town. Halfe way off y^e tower you go round y^e quire and Looke down into it, there are severall effigies of marble and allabaster of y^e Bishops of the place and one of the Earle of Arundell and his Lady.

Chichester is 50 mile from London y^e Direct way by Guildford, but I went through more of Sussex w^ch is much 32in blind dark Lanes and up and down Steepe hills, to Billinghurst and passed through Arundell parke belonging to y^e Duke of Norfolke, this was 18 mile, from whence I went to Dorken in Surry 15 mile, where are y^e best trouts in y^e river w^ch runns by Box hill a Remarkable diversion to people that go to Epsum. The hill is full of box w^ch is Cutt out in severall walks shady and pleasant to walk in tho’ the Smell is not very agreeable; the brow of the hill being Such a height gives a Large prospect of a ffruitfull vale full of inclosures and woods, and this River Runns twining itself about and is called y^e Swallow, and Just about Dorken and Leatherhead 4 mile thence it sinkes away in many places w^ch they call Swallow holes, this Must be some quicksand, but y^e Report of it is it sincks here and runnes und^r ground a Mile or two and rises about Moles and Runs againe. Camden does credit this and repeates a tryal one made of forceing a Duck into one of those falls w^ch Came out at y^e other side by Moles w^th its ffeathers allmost all Rubbed off w^ch supposses y^e passage to be streight, but how they Could force y^e Duck into so difficult a way or whither anything of this is more than Conjecture must be Left to every ones Liberty to judge. From Dorken its 10 mile to Kingsston, a Chalky hard Road w^ch is in Surrey, this stands on the Thames, its a great Market for Corne; I was there on Satturday and saw great quantity’s of Corn and Mault sold; thence I passed by Richmond park wall a good way and Came in sight of Hampton Court w^ch is a Noble Building, had the good queen Mary Lived to have ffinished it, it would have been y^e noblest palace in y^e Kingdom. I passed the end of Wanstead and Clapham and part of Lambeth having Chealsey College in view and y^e whole Cittys of Westminster and London so thro’ Southwarke over London bridge into Middlesex 10 mile in all from Kingston—this Little journey was 220 mile.

Another journey into Herrifordshire from London, by Uxbridge to Islip 5 miles that is 7 mile off Oxford, from Islip to Woodstock where remaines no foote steps of faire Rosomonds Bower, only y^e walls round y^e parke and the little brookes that supply’d it w^th water for y^e baths and 33wells and ponds. Thence to Morton Hindmost in Glocestershire to a Relations house, My Uncle Rich^d ffiennes’s widdow, a little neate stone built town, good Innes for y^e travellers being y^e road from London to Worcester and Herrifford and wales. Thence over Broadway hill to Parshur in all 30 mile by 12 of y^e Clock, thence to Upton, where we pass on a large bridge over y^e fine River the Severn w^ch runs from Worcester and to Glocester, Shrewsbury and to Bristol where it runns into the sea—in some places its very broad, Some Miles over, but here it was no broader than y^e Thames is at Staines—it affords good ffish, Salmon and severall sorts besides. I think this River does not Ebb and flow so farre into y^e Land. Here we Enter into Worcestershire and ascend Manborn hills or as some term them y^e English Alps, a Ridge of hills Divideing Worcestershire and Heriforshire and was formerly Esteemed the divideing England and Wales, Herriford Shropshire &c. were Weltch Countys. They are at least 2 or 3 miles up and are in a Pirramidy fashion on y^e top. I rode up upon y^e top of one of y^e highest from whence Could discern the Country above 40 miles round and noe hills but what appeared Like Burrows or Mole hills, these being so high Nothing Could Limitt y^e Eye but distance. Just at y^e Bottom stands Worcester town which Looks like a Large well built town of Brick and Stone—I was not in it. On the one Side of this high Ridge of hills Lies Worcester: Oxford Glocestershire &c. appears in plaines, enclosures, Woods and Rivers and many Great hills tho’ to this they appeare Low: on the other Side is Herriforshire w^ch appears Like a Country off Gardens and Orchards the whole Country being very full of fruite trees &c. it lookes like nothing else—the apple and pear trees &c. are so thick even in their Corn fields and hedgerows. The descent is as long and steep in some places as its riseing was. Thence to a Relations house my uncle John ffiennes and his son; New house, 20 mile from Parshur which I rode all in one day in June and y^e miles are here very long so that at Least it may be esteemed the Last 20 mile as long as the 30 mile gone in the morning. My Cos’n ffiennes has made a very convenient habitation at this place 34w^ch Contrary to its Name was an old built house—Timber worke, but by his alteration and additions of good Brick walls round the Court and 4 pretty gardens, w^th good Walks grass platts much good fruite, of w^ch the Country does Easily produce, and if persons are Curious in planting may have y^e best w^ch my Cosen has here, and the walls some Lower than other gives the sight of y^e Garden at one view. Severall large orchards behind the house with new Stables and offices w^ch makes it look well. Itts in sight of severall houses, but all old buildings—Lady Hopton’s in a Low meadow—there are woods by it and a Little river parts them, called y^e Framy w^ch gives Name to Severall Little villages as Cannon froom, Bishops ffroom, Castle froom; this runnes into another Little river Called the Lug and both runnes into the River Wye w^ch is on y^e back side of Herriford town. This was 7 miles from us, its a pretty little town of timber buildings, the streetes are well pitched and handsome as to breadth and Length. The river Wye is as broad as the Thames is at Maidenhead bridge, or hardly so broad, its a Rapid River and seemed much disturb’d; there is very good ffish in it; it did not looke Cleare wⁿ I saw it, but was thick and yellow but y^t is against foul weather.

The Mount which is the only thing of y^e Castle that remaines Commands the sight of y^e river and town. The Cathedrall is very neate but small, the Carving of the wood in the Quire was good. In the Library I was shown by y^e Dean of Herriford y^e History of pope Joan with her Picture, it was printed in and with the history of all the popes in Rome successively—it was writt in old English, but I made a shift to read it. There is ye Bishops Palace and y^e Deanes and Doctors houses w^ch are the best buildings, but they are not very ffine or Large. 7 mile thence on a flatt is M^r Paul folie’s Seate called Stoake in whose parlour you see Herriford quite plainer—its a very good old house of Timber worke but old ffashion’d, and good Roome for Gardens, but all in an old fform and mode and M^r Folie Intends to make both a new house and gardens. The latter I saw staked out, so it will be to no purpose to say anything of it as its now only y^e good Barns and Stables that 35are new Covered w^th slate, y^e ffine Bowling-green walled in, and a Summer-house in it all new. There is beyond this, ffine woods and a delicate Parke above the house—pailed in; y^t is stored with deare both red and ffallow and affords 12 brace in a season, there are also fine Coppices.

From thence to Newhouse againe 7 mile, hither we went 5 or 6 tymes from Newhouse to Broughton. We went by Eshum and y^e Vale of y^e Red horse being a Vale of a great extent, the earth is all Red, its a very Rich Country for Corn and ffruites and woods. Its Called y^e Vale of Eshum or of y^e Red horse from a Red horse Cut out on some of y^e hills about it and y^e Earth all Looking Red, y^e horse Lookes so as y^t of y^e white horse Vale. Here is all very heavy way to Weston 25 mile in Glocester, to a Parsonage of my Cos’n Pheramus ffiennes given him for his life by his and our Grandfather Will^m Lord Viscount Say and Seale—its a neate building all stone, and y^e walls round Court, Gardens and yards, all are of Stone.

A mile thence was one of his sisters marry’d to a Parson M^r Browne that has a very neate and Convenient Little house and Gardens. A mile from thence is a very high hill from whence I Could see a great distance—Warwick and Coventry and a large tract of Land all round. Att the foote of this hill Lyes Camden Town w^ch I went through, its built all of stone as is the Church w^th the Effigie of the Little Viscountess Camden that lived to a great age and was Mother to the Earle of Gainsborough; its Cut out in white Marble and stands in an arch in the wall, w^th two Leav’d doores to it, to keep it from y^e dust—there were severall little Monuments besides in the Church. From thence to Brailes and thence to Broughton 19 miles to my Brother Say, w^ch is 50 miles from London; I went by Alsbury 20 thence 30 to London.

A journey I went into the New fforest in Hampshire to Ffarnum 38 mile, there we go by Aberstone the Duke of Boltons house, stands on y^e Side of a hill where are ffine Gardens and much ffruite. From Ffernum you see the Castle w^ch is y^e Bishops of Winchesters house, its a large building; thence you go to Alton 7 mile, thence to Alsford 7 mile more, 36you go along on the hills in sight of the River all w^ch gives name to those places, its a good Chaulkey way. Thence to Winchester 7 mile—in one mile off the town is Woolsey y^t was formerly y^e Bishops house, a large Rambling building like a little town, this is on Maudline hill whereon a Considerable ffaire is kept neare Michelmas, y^e Traffique mostly hopps which y^t Country produceth good and Cheese—its noted for a vast many of Waines from Severall parts especially from the West Country.

Winchester is a large town was once y^e metropolis, there is a wall Encompassing it with severall Gates; the streetes are pretty good, Large and long, y^e buildings but Low and old, only some few in the Close w^ch are new built of the Doctors houses by y^e Colledge and the Church. Y^e Deans house is a good old house, timber buildings; there are some of the roomes Lofty and large, a dineing, drawing room and bed Chamber very good; a long Gallery runns through the house and opens into the Garden by a Descent of Severall Stone stepps. Y^e Garden is but small—there are Green and gravel walkes higher and Lower, but its all in an old fashion’d form but neately kept and severall Curiosityes in potts of flowers and greens. The Bishops palace stands in a Low Ground or Watry Meadow, its a timber building but so unpleasant that the Bishop lives not at it but at Ffarly Castle about 20 mile off.

The Cathedrall at Winchester is one of y^e biggest in England and is to be admired for its Largeness, not its neatness or Curiosity, there is an ascent of 20 steps up to the quire that is finely Carved in y^e wood, and on the top all round stands in ffine painted Chests the bones of the Kings of England y^t were buried there; for Winchester was the Regal Citty w^ch now it has lost, as also a peculiar art of dying y^e best purples. In the Church there are no good Monuments worth notice, the body of the Church is very large, y^e Steeple Lookes Noble, but y^e Spire is not a neare so high as Salisbury. In the town is a new building begun by K. Charles the Second for a Palace when he Came to hunt and for aire and diversions in the Country. I saw y^e Modell of it w^ch was very fine and so would it 37have been if ffinished; but there is only y^e outside shell is set up, there were designed fine apartm^ts and two Chapples but its never like to be finish’d now.

There is a good river runns thro’ the town, at y^e backside the Castle stood high, but there now remaines only y^e ruined walls and banks on w^ch they make gardens and hopp yards, w^ch runnes a great Length on the side of y^e brow of the hill that some part of y^e town is built on—it Lookes pretty. Here is a good Colledge it is on y^e same foundation y^t New Colledge in Oxford are; both built and Endowed by Great Will^m of Wickam an ancester of y^e ffiennes and Lord Say and Seale. So all the founders Kindred by his own Statutes are first to be Chosen and have a Right to many priviledges—its only in default or want of any of his Kindred or of Such and Such Parishes w^ch he names that any other person ought or Can be Chosen a Child of this Colledg. They have such a Number above 100—they have their Diet and a gown every year, and so much mony Every quarter, and here they have their Learning and provision.

There are also fellowships—w^ch as they become vacant they who are fitt its bestowed on them—on w^ch a young Man May Maintain himself well and so improve his Learning. These fellowships at New Colledg are forfeited if they do not live there, or for y^e most part; and also as soone as they are Marryed they are put out in number fellows and master and warden, but at winchester the fellowships are of greater value and do appertaine to a person during Life in Case he Comes and resides for y^e most part there, even when they are marryed.

I thinke there are but 7 fellowships here. There is a warden of y^e Colledge and a Schoolemaster and usher at Winchester. Y^e Colledge is a good Pile of Building there is a very pretty Chapple in it and a very fine Library w^ch is in y^e Cloysters y^t are very good for walking.

There is a large hall they eate in and have their exact Commons to Every one, so have the fellows, their Lodgings are Convenient and all their offices, the Warden has built a new appartment for himself w^ch looks well about a mile or two 38beyond Winchester, we go by S^t Cross, a Large hospitall for old men and I thinke most is for y^e decayed schollars.

The Masters place is worth 1000 pound a yeare—it used to be annexed to y^e Warden of the Colledges place, by their ffoundation they are to give reliefe to any Travellers that call there so farre as a Loafe of bread as big as our two penny bread is and a Draught of beare and a piece of mony. I thinke its y^e value of a Groate. Ffrom thence I came to Redbridge, thence to Buckland in the new forest in all 20 mile; ffrom Buckland w^ch was a Relation’s house—S^r Rob^t Smiths—its a mile to Limington a seaport town—it has some few small shipps belongs to it and some Little trade, but y^e Greatest trade is by their Salterns. Y^e Sea water they draw into Trenches and so into Severall ponds y^t are secured in y^e bottom to retain it, and it stands for y^e Sun to Exhale y^e Watry fresh part of it, and if it prove a drye sumer they make the best and most Salt, for y^e raine spoyles y^e ponds by weakning y^e Salt. When they think its fit to boyle they draw off the water from y^e ponds by pipes w^ch Conveys it into a house full of Large Square Iron and Copper panns; they are shallow but they are a yard or two if not more Square, these are fixed in Rowes one by another it may be twenty on a Side, in a house under which is the ffurnace y^t burns fiercely to keepe these panns boyling apace, and as it Candy’s about y^e Edges or bottom so they Shovell it up and fill it in great Baskets and so the thinner part runns through on Moulds they set to Catch it, w^ch they Call Salt Cakes. Y^e rest in y^e Baskets drye and is very good Salt and as fast as they Shovell out the boyling Salt out of y^e panns they do replenish it w^th more of their Salt water in their pipes. They told me when the Season was drye and so the Salt water in its prime they Could make 60 quarters of Salt in one of those panns w^ch they Constantly attend Night and day all the while the fire is in the ffurnace, because it would burn to waste and Spoyle y^e panns w^ch by their Constant Use wants often to be repaired. They Leave off Satterday Night and let out y^e fire and so begin and kindle their fire Monday Morning. Its a pretty Charge to light the fire. Their Season for makeing Salt is 39not above 4 or 5 Months in y^e year and y^t only in a dry Summer. These houses have above 20 some 30 others more of these panns in them, they are Made of Copper. They are very Carefull to keep their ponds well secured and Mended by good Clay and Gravell in the bottom and Sides and so by sluces they fill them out of the sea at high-tides and so Conveyed from pond to pond till fit to boyle. Ffrom Limmington to Lindhurst is 6 mile, where is a house of y^e Kings wⁿ he comes to hunt in the new fforest, and y^e Lord Warden of the fforest is there when he Comes to hunt and Hawk, to Whome Comes all the Gentry of the Country to waite on him—he dines at Night from 7 to 12 of the Clock. He is served in plaite, those y^t hunt with him all day Comes and Dines or Supps with him. He has power to dispose and order y^e Concerns of y^e forrest for y^e timber for shipps and to have it Cherrish’d and secured from Spoyle, as also the deare and Game to be preserved, y^e disposeing of the Lodges are in his power. There are 15 Lodges and these are disposed to Gentlemen that have underkeepers y^t takes care of it, and w^t is peculiar to y^e New forrest and known no where Else are these Brouce Deare; at these severall Lodges y^e Keepers gather Brome and at Certaine tymes in y^e day by a Call gathers all the Dear in within the railes which belongs to Each Lodge, and so they Come up and feed upon this Brouce and are by that meanes very fatt and very tame, so as to Come quite to Eate out of y^e hand. All the day besides they range about and if they meete anybody if it be their own keeper without y^e pail of y^e Lodge they will run from him as wild as Can be. These Lodges are about 4 miles asunder and its a great Priviledge and advantage to be a Cheefe Keeper of any of these Lodges; they have Venison as much as they please and Can easily shoote it when the troop Comes up w^th in y^e paile, for none are allowed to Shoot out in y^e forrest, nor are allowed to go out w^th Gun or dog or to keep any Except Gentlemen, and not they if they have been found Shooteing in y^e fforest. I think its ffellony for any to kill y^e Kings dear. there are severall Rangers of y^e fforest, and 6 verderers y^t are their justices or judges of all matters 40Relateing to y^e fforest, these ought allwayes to reside in y^e fforest and are to attend the King when he Comes into y^e new fforest. Clothed in green, they have a buck and Doe Every year for their ffee, besides being Masters—the under keepers are at their beck so y^t they Can get as Much venison as they want. There is also a Rider of y^e fforest who is to see about y^t all things are secure and well done and y^e Timber kept and Deer, to see they are not spoyled or Destroyed: his Right is to all the Deer y^t are hurt or Maimed as also he is to have y^e Shoulder of y^e first Stagg that is hunted and killed in the Season. There is a Bow man w^ch is to provide y^e King w^th Bow and arrow when he Comes into y^e fforest—they have some priviledge also but y^e shooteing by bow and arrow being Left off, y^t office is not regarded.

Ffrom Lindhurst about a Mile is a parke called new parke enclosed out of y^e fforrest with Pailes, it belongs to y^e Kings house; there is a house in it w^ch was the Lodge—a large old Timber house. Ffrom Limington to y^e Isle of Wight its about 4 Leagues; to Yarmouth you go by Hurst Castle, y^t runnes on a point of land into y^e sea just by the Needles within a League of Yarmouth, and those needles are severall Great Rocks on y^t side of the Island, craggy, and severall stand out into the sea w^ch makes it very hazardous for shipps to pass there, Especially in a Storme or for Strangers—y^e passage being narrow between the Needles and Hurst Castle, Can easily Command any ship that would pass there. Yarmouth is a little Sea-port and has a Little Castle that Can annoy Any Enemy that should pass by Hurst, so between them may well Secure y^t part of y^e Isle and all on y^e back side of the jsland are those Needles y^t are a Natural ffortification it being inaccessible.

So at another part of y^e jsle there is Sandumffort w^ch is a pretty strong place. Y^e jsland is 10 mile in the breadth and 30 mile in Length—Upon Most of the high hills you see the wall of y^e sea on both Sides, if not all round you as in some places. Ffrom Yarmouth to Newport is seven mile, a little town y^t y^e Arm of the Sea Comes up to—its one of 41the biggest towns in y^e Island; in a mile off it is Casbrooke Castle into w^ch King Charles y^e first retired when he was worsted by y^e Parliaments forces—there are some good roomes still that remaine but y^e most part are destroyed and only ruined walls to be seen. There is a deep well of 40 ffathom they draw up y^e bucket by a great Wheele in w^ch they put a horse or ass—a stone thrown down sounds a long tyme ere you hear it splash into y^e water. About seven miles thence is Cowes both East and west 2 ports for Shipps to ride in and be Recruited w^th all sorts of provisions w^ch is done on very reasonable terms. Y^e ffertillity of the whole jsland produces Corn of all sorts in great plenty, and all sorts of Cattle and butter; Cheese as also Great Store of ffish and ffowle; there is some Little part fforrest land but for y^e most part are Meddows and good downs.

The little ports are all fitted for y^e Seamen and their affaires, Little houses, not but there are severall good old houses that are Gentlemens seats, as S^r Robert Dilington at Knighton and S^r John oglander at Nunwell, S^r Robert Worstly and severall More. S^r Rob^t Holmes has a good Estate there, he was the Governour of y^e Island and of Yarmouth Castle and there he is buried, Where is his Statue Cutt in Length in white Marble in the Church and railed in with Iron Grates; he was raised from Nothing and an imperious Govern^r, and what he Scrap’d together was forced to Leave to his Nephew and base Daughter, haveing no other, and they have set up this Stately monument which Cost a Great deal. There is one place called Mottstone just by the sea side, the Name Comes from many Great Stones that stand up in the Grounds not unlike y^e stones at Stonidge in Wiltshire, but this sort of stone is in Many places of y^e Island and most of the houses are built of Stone, some few Brick. From a hill just above Cowes that runns along by the Sea side You May Easily see Spitthead And S^t Hellens point and all the Shipps that Lay along y^e Road and that Lay in Portsmouth haven. From Ride is 3 Leagues to portsmouth, I pass’d it in an hour. Portsmouth is a very Good town, Well built with Stone and brick, its not a large town, there are Walls and Gates about it, and 42at Least eight Bridges and Gates without one another w^th Ditches which secures it very Strongly to y^e Land-ward, to the Sea the ffortifications are not so strong; there is a plattform with Guns and Pallisadoes. There is a good dock for Building Shipps, but about 6 mile off at Red bridge are the best Shipps built. There are most of the great Shipps Lye at Anchor here.

I was a board y^e Royal Charles, and the Royal James, which are ffine Shipps, y^e Roomes Spacious for Length and Breadth but not high. There was a large Chappel and Cabbin with Damaske furniture. The Castle at Portsmouth is not Great—its Rather Called the Kings house where is a Great deal of armes. I was in the Dineing Roome where King Charles y^e Second met Queen Katherine and was marryed to her and set the crown on her head. There from that roome out of double doores goes a long wooden bridge to the Plattforme; just by is South sea Castle which is wash’d round by y^e sea and pretty deep water att Spring tides, it Looks very fine but think its but of Little Strength or Service. Above the town is a very fine down Called Porchester down very pleasant for Sports Hawking and hunting; 6 mile over this down is Southwicke, Coll: Nortons a good old house Capable of being Made ffine, Large Garden room—Woods and Grounds Lying well about it and a good Warren, Coppices and y^e Stately G^t Timber trees as may be seen. He was an old officer in the Long parliam^t service—this is 15 mile from Winchester and from Winchester to South-hampton is ten miles; that is a very neate clean town and the Streets well pitch’d and kept so, by their Carrying all their Carriages on Sleds as they do in holland, and permit no Cart to go about in y^e town, and keep it Clean Swept—this was formerly more strictly observ’d when the town was full of trade, for it is a good port, but now y^e trade has failed and y^e town almost forsooke and neglected. Its a place of No Strength now, by reason of y^e Castle being ruined and the fortifications neglected and the Gunns taken thence, tho’ by most its thought the best scittuated port for Shipps to Ride and take their provision in and so Capable of tradeing; but the 43last 2 Reignes for near 40 year discourag’d it being a proper place for the french to have Seiz’d and Secured for themselves. About 3 Leagues off is Cashot Castle just out into the Sea w^ch does Encompasse it all but a very little point of land Called Horsy Beach that runnes out into the New forrest by Bewly w^ch was an abby in the fforest, for the Extent of y^e fforrest is large—Miles long; All round Casholt Castle on the Beach itts as full of fine Cockle shells so that they heap them up all round the Castle Like a wall.

It was at South-hampton King Philip Landed when he Came to marry Queen Mary. Ffrom thence its 6 miles to Rumsey, and the Road Runns just by a ffine house of one of my Relations S^r John S^t Barbe’s; the Rows of trees in the avenues runns just from y^e Road to the front of the house. You Enter a Court thats wall’d in and blew Iron gates. The Court has a Round in the Middle rail’d in, designed for a Bowling Green, and the Coaches drive round it to Come to the Entrance w^ch is severall stone Stepps to a broad Space that is railed w^th Balls and Banisters: the Space is paved w^th broad free stone the stepps y^e Same 8 or 10. The house is a halfe Roman H. Y^e hall is in the Middle w^th double doores, its very lofty and large there’s a Chimney just against the Entrance on the Right hand, runns in an Entry through the house to the back yard, where are the offices, Still house and Barnes and Coach houses and a very ffine Stable built of Brick—there are large partitions. In this Entry you have the pantry and Cellars and on the other side y^e Kittchin Larders and pastry w^ch is one wing of the house and just behind the hall is y^e Servants hall and a Little parlour just by the pantry and back staires. Then the great hall is divided in halfe by the Staircase, w^ch hangs on its own work not supported of Either Side, to the first half pace and all the way up without Support, on the one Side they are of oake, the railes and Banisters are varnished. The halfe paces are Inlaid w^th yew wood w^ch lookes a yellowish Red in Squaires; they Land on the next Story with a space of this Inlaid worke of a good Bigness the whole Compass of y^e Staircase. The Roofe of the Staires is even w^th y^e Roofe 44of y^e next Story; on the other side of the Staires are severall Rows of Pillars of wood Painted Like Marble for to walke between, and you pass quite under the Staires into a Little Closet, and a little farther into a back yard where is a Bathing house and other necessarys. There is a screen stands on the side of the Staires next the Chimney to make that part more private. Y^e hall Runns quite through to the Garden where there is a door w^th stepps down and so at this door you see thro’ the house to y^t back yard I mentioned at y^e End of the Entry. The other wing of y^e house is a large parlour and drawing Roome, this is out of the hall by the Garden; the hall is well painted and a Carved Cornish round and pillars on the wanscoate round the Roome. The parlour is wanscoated and painted a Cedar Coullour. The next Story you Enter of this large halfe pace on the Right hand, into a door w^ch Leads fore Right to a Balcony, and on the Left hand into a passage, w^ch leads to the Chamber over the drawing Roome, and by it is a Servants Roome Even w^th y^e passage. On the Right hand is a passage Leads to Another Roome just over against—open the doores and there is a perfect visto, so there is the other way and a servants roome even w^th y^e passage; beyond this roome is a back Stair Leads to the bath, and by y^e Servants Roome is a large back Staire that Leads to the Next Story, the Great staires Ending here, and on the Left hand they lead into a large dineing Roome &c.—then a drawing Roome and next a bed Chamber w^ch has a back doore to the back Staires by y^e kitchin. These doores open through to y^e End one way the best bed Chamber and quite to the balcony y^e other side a visto.

Within the dineing roome on ye Left hand is a very Largo bed Chamber w^ch jndeed is y^e best—good tapistry hangings—here is design’d a velvet bed its painted white; there are very good Pictures; here is a Little back Staires to y^e Servants hall. The dineing Roome is wanscoated and varnish’d the other Roomes nothing done to—that is the drawing Roome and Chamber. W^th in there is damaske, and Camlet beds in y^e other Roomes, and off these back Staires by y^e Kitchin is a Chamber, anty Roome, dressing roome, 2 Closets These back staires goe up to the next 45Story y^t Leads to the roomes over this, and to a long Gallery that is Window all to the ffront and Leads to all y^e Chambers. There is handsome roomes only those at y^e Side and End are Garret fashion—between are Servants roomes and Closets: thence a little pair of Stairs Leads up to the Gallery and thence up to the Cupilow which is in the Middle of the house, all Windows round and on y^e top has a Gold ball that holds severall Gallons. On each Wing there are 2 little towers, one has y^e Clock the other a Sundial, and on the top two gold balls of a Lesser size. The Gardens are walled in, some with brest walls, some higher with flower potts on them; severall places with open grates to Look through with Stone balls or ffigures on the pillars each Side the Gates everyway. There is a water house that by a Wheele Casts up the Water out of y^e River just by, and fills y^e pipes to Serve all y^e house and to fill y^e bason designed in the middle of the Garden w^th a Spout in the middle.

The Gardens are not finish’d but will be very ffine, w^th Large Gates open to y^e Grounds beyond, some of w^ch are planted with trees. Its a fine thing, but doubt its no very good aire—it stands in a low place near y^e River, the hills all round on y^t Side and y^e Mold and Soyle is Black and such as they Cut up for peate. The road from hence to Salisbury is by White Parish and Joy Church and you come in Sight of my Lord Coal-rain house that Looks Like a good Building of Stone, but its just so upon the Great River that it lookes Like a Little Castle or Shipp. This river runns to Breamore from Salisbury just by a very fine Seat of y^e Lady Brooks which was S^r W^m Doringtons heir. The house Stands finely to the River a brick building. You Enter into a Walled Court Soe up 12 Stepps at Least into a Noble hall: on the Left hand was a parlour, and on y^e Right a large drawing roome a Little parlour and Large Staires up to Severall very handsom Chambers ffurnished with good Tapistry and damaske and some velvets, w^ch was new because the fire had Spoiled most of the goods; but the house was built just in y^e same ffigure. The Kitchins and offices are all under y^e roomes of State and they go 46down Steps to it Under y^e Arch of Stepps that ascend to the hall: out of the drawing roome by Glass doors you enter the Garden on a terrass and y^t by Stepps, so to Severall Walks of Gravel and Grass and to the Gardens, one below another with Low Walls to give the view all at once. Here was fine flowers and Greens Dwarfe trees and oring and Lemon trees in Rows w^th fruite and flowers at once and some ripe; they are y^e first oring trees I ever Saw. Here are Stately woods and walks. This River Runns to ffording bridge A Little place, thence to Kingwood, thence to Christchurch; it turns many Great Mills and there have been great attempts to make it Navigable w^ch would be of Great advantage, but all Charge has been Lost in it. There is Store of good ffish in it; it runns to Christchurch and divides the new fforest from Wiltshire, there is a large Bridge that crosses at Christchurch where it runns into the Sea. This is 18 miles from Salisbury 20 miles from Newtontony over y^e down, 6 to Rumsy 4 to Lockerly two to East Titherly where S^r ffrancis Rowles has a fine house and Garden and Groves. One on the Edge of y^e hill, all in sight of y^e Road Looks ffinely of Scott and Norroway ffirrs in Rows and Looks very well. In 2 mile of this is Dean w^ch was S^r John Evlings, now his Grandsons Lord Kingston, it seems to be a good Lofty Building, its woody and very ffruitfull. There is Likewise a good old seate of M^r Whiteheads my grandfathers, Normans Court in West Titherly; its well wooded, good Gardens, but a very old house; a ffine Grove of ffirrs to y^e ffront. This is 7 mile from Newtontony and as much to Stockbridge w^ch is y^e Road to London; thence to Sutton 12 miles, thence to Basinstoake 12 mile. Its a Large town and has a good trade being a Road. A mile thence is Basin on y^e Left hand w^ch was a house of y^e Duke of Boltons, but being a Garrison in y^e Civil warrs was pulled down and Now only some part remaines, and the Gardens w^ch are improved and new walls built: fine fruit and vineyards, a large parke to it. On y^e Right hand about a mile off is Hackwood which is another Seate of y^e Duke of Boltons in a pretty parke. It looks very pretty not large. 47Basinstoake Lyes watrish but its on Chalke. A little further on y^e Left hand at some distance you see a fine Seate of S^r Robert Henleys, it looks Like a little town, its so large a building, and they say its a noble thing ffinished and furnish’d very well with good Gardens.

To Harfordbridge 8 mile thence to bagshott 8 mile a heavy sandy way, and y^e Same from thence to Egam 8 mile; thence to Staines a mile, where we Cross y^e Thames on a bridge and enter Middlesex—thence to London 15 miles.

I went to see Hampton Court 10 mile from London; it looks Like a little town y^e buildings runn so great a Length on y^e ground, Y^e old buildings and y^e New part w^ch King William and Queen Mary built. Y^e Queen took Great delight in it. Y^e new was but just y^e shell up and some of y^e Roomes of State Ceil’d but nothing ffinished. The roomes were very Lofty, round a Large Court and all the appartments intire. The old buildings were on the other side the prioy Garden: there was the water Gallery that opened into a ballcony to y^e water, and was decked with China and ffine pictures of y^e Court Ladyes drawn by Nellor. Beyond this came severall Roomes, and one was pretty Large, at y^e four Corners were little roomes like Closets or drawing roomes, one pannell’d all w^th jappan, another w^th Looking Glass, and two w^th fine work under pannells of Glass. There was the queens Bath and a place to take boat in the house. The Gardens were designed to be very ffine, Great fountaines and Grass plotts and gravell walkes, and just against the middle of y^e house was a very large fountaine, and beyond it a large Cannal Guarded by rows of Even trees that runn a good way. There was fine Carving in the Iron Gates in the Gardens w^th all sorts of ffigures, and Iron spikes Round on a breast wall and severall Rows of trees.

ffrom London to Amwell Berry in Hartfordshire 19 mile, thence to Bishops Startford in Essex 13 mile, w^ch is a very pretty Neat Market town, a good Church and a delicate spring of Water w^ch has a wall built round it, very Sweet and Cleare water for drinking. There is a little river runns by the town y^t feeds severall Mills.

Thence we Went to Andlyend 10 miles, a house of y^e Earle of Sussex w^ch makes a Noble appearance Like a town, so many towers and buildings off stone within a parke w^ch is walled round. A good River runs through it, we pass over the bridge. Its built round 3 Courts, there are 30 great and Little towers on the top, and a great Cupilow in the Middle. The roomes are Large and Lofty with good Rich old ffurniture tapistry, but Noe beds in y^t part we saw. There are 750 (150?) Roomes in the house.

The Cannall in the Midst of the parke Look’d very fine, its altogether a Stately palace and was built for one of y^e Kings. Thence to Little-berry one Mile, where is a house with abundance of Curiosityes all performed by Clock work and Such like, w^ch appears very Strange to the beholders, but the master was not at home so I saw no more than the Chaire they Set in when they are Carry’d about. All the Country is pleasant; between this and Cambridge you go in sight of so many neate villages w^th Rows of trees about them and very neate built Churches—Sometimes 5 or 6 of these are in view together in 3 or four mile of Each other—Y^e Churches are stone-work. We went to Babaram where was a house of S^r Rich^d Bennets in a pleasant parke prettyly situated, only it is in a Low ground, but y^e fine Rows of trees in the severall avenues Came just down to the Road: thence to Bornbridge 5 mile, thence to Hodmogoge hills 3 miles, w^ch looks at a distance Like a long Barn, but when you approach Near you see it a Great fortification or Ruines of a Castle, with great trenches one within another, and all y^e buildings—there is only a long string of Stables 49to keep y^e Kings hunting horses. The hill is of a great height from whence you have a great prospect of y^e whole Country and of Cambridge w^ch is 3 mile off. The town Lyes in a bottom and Marshy Ground all about it severall miles w^ch is Garnish’d with willows; y^e buildings are old and Indifferent. the Streetes mostly narrow, (except near the Market place), w^ch is pretty spacious—there stands the University Church. Trinity Colledg is the ffinest, yet not so Large as Christchurch College in oxford. In the first Court there is a very ffine ffountaine in the Middle of y^e Quadrangle w^th a Carved top and Dials round—there are Large Cloysters. The Library runns all y^e rang of building at y^e End and stands on 3 rows of stone pillars; it opens into the Gardens and walk w^th 3 Large Gates or doores of Iron Carv’d very ffine w^th fflowers and Leaves. The river runs at y^e back side of most of y^e Colleges; they have fine stone bridges over it and gates that Lead to fine walks; Y^e rivers name is Cam.

The Library farre exceeds that of Oxford, the Staires are Wanscoated and very large and Easye ascent, all of Cedar wood, y^e room spacious and Lofty paved w^th black and white marble, y^e sides are wanscoated and decked with all Curious books off Learning, their Catalogue and their Benefactors. There is two Large Globes at each End w^th teliscopes and microscopes and y^e finest Carving in wood, in flowers, birds, Leaves, ffigures of all sorts as I ever saw. There is a large Balcony opens at the End, very large, all finely painted all over y^e history of the New Testament. Its a hundred and twenty steps to y^e roofe and supported by noe pillars all Arch of Stone: You walke on y^e Arch or Cradle as its term’d. There is 32 Little windows Cut in Stone just as you ascend to y^e Cradle or Arch w^ch runns on Either side, and a p^r of Staires of 8 stepps to every 3 windows w^ch Lead up to the Arch; thence you ascend the Leads over all w^ch are fine, secured by battlements round, there are 4 large Spires: at each corner one. On these Leads you May see a vast Country round.

You see Ely-minster and y^e towers; this is a noble 50building and Stands on so advantagious a ground, and so Lofty built y^t its perspicious above y^e town; this is in Lieu of y^e Theatre at Oxford there being none here. St Johns College Garden is very pleasant for y^e fine walks both Close Shady walks and open Rows of trees and quickset hedges. There is a pretty bowling green with Cut arbours in the hedges. Queens Colledge is old but a stately and Lofty building. Claire Hall is very Little but most Exactly neate in all parts, they have walks w^th Rows of trees, and bridges over the river and fine painted Gates into y^e ffields. Katherine Hall is new built, the Chapple was not Quite ffinished; the apartments for y^e fellows and Gentlemen Commoners are very ffine, a Large dineing roome, a good Chamber and good Studdy and this for 8£ a year.

Here we are Entertained by some of our Companys acquaintance. From Cambridge we go just by Peterborough: we see the Minster and y^e town, very plaine all built with Stone. The road is very pleasant to Ffenistanton, 8 miles to Godmanchester, and from thence Huntington 1 mile. We cross the River Lin over a bridge and so Enter Huntingtonshire. This river goes to Lin in Norfolke its a very pleasant Country to travel in in y^e Summer, but after raines its in Some places deep, but the prospects are delighting; Little town and good Enclosure w^th woods and same of the Country’s. Huntington is but a Small Shire town; just by it is a house of the Lord Sandwich, y^t it is pretty large. We enter a good Lofty hall, in it hangs the Ship in w^ch he was lost, that is the representation of it Cut out in Little and all things Exactly made to it; there is a good parlour and drawing roome: well proportion’d are y^e rooms w^th good old ffurniture and good Pictures. There is a Large dineing roome above w^th good tapistry hangings, and its Ceil’d w^th jrish oake Carv’d with points hanging down like fine ffret worke; this wood no spider will weave on or endure. There are good bed Chambers with good furniture and fine pictures; over one of the Chimneys is a fine picture of Venus were it not too much uncloth’d. The Gardens and Wilderness and Greenhouse will be very fine when quite ffinished with the dwarfe trees and gravell walks. 51There is a large fountaine or bason which is to resemble that in the privy garden at Whitehall, which will ffront the house.

The high terrass walks Look out on the Road. all this Country is good Land and ffruitfull and much like Oxfordshire.

Ffrom Huntington we came to Shilton 10 mile, and Came in Sight of a great water on the Right hand about a mile off w^ch Looked Like Some Sea it being so high and of great Length: this is in part of the ffenny Country and is Called Whitlsome Mer, is 3 mile broad and six long. In y^e Midst is a little jsland where a great Store of Wildfowle breeds, there is no coming near it; in a Mile or two the ground is all wett and Marshy but there are severall little Channells runs into it w^ch by boats people go up to this place. When you enter the mouth of y^e Mer it lookes fformidable and its often very dangerous by reason of sudden winds that will rise Like Hurricanes in the Mer, but at other tymes people boate it round the Mer with pleasure. There is abundance of good ffish in it. This was thought to have been Sea some tyme agoe and Choak’d up and so remaines all about it for some miles a ffenny Marshy Ground for those little Rivers that runns into y^e Sea some distance of miles. Thence to Wangfford 2 miles, thence to Stamfford 5 miles.

We pass over a down where is a Cross that directs three wayes York, London and Oatly, and here we Come in Sight of a Gentlemans house that stands finely on a hill in a parke, pretty high with fine groves about it. A little farther when we are pass’d the water att Wansford we enter Ruttlandshire w^ch seems more woody than y^e others. Stamfford town is as fine a built town all of stone as may be seen; its on the side of a hill w^ch appears very fine in the approach.

Severall very good Churches with high Spires and towers very ornamentall, its not very Large, but much ffiner than Cambridge, and in its view has severall good houses. On the Right hand of Stamfford is a house of M^r Neals in a pretty neate parke pailed in; y^e house not very big but 52Lookes well. On the Side of y^e hill over against Stamfford and on the Left hand over against the town Stands My Lord of Exeters Burly house, Eminent for its Curiosity. The Situation is the finest I ever saw, on the Edge of the hill and severall Rows of trees of severall acres about it quite to the Road. It stands in a very fine parke w^ch is full of deer and fine Rows of trees. On Either side a very broad Glide or visto that Lookes finely to y^e River and to the adjacent hills, a distance, both with fine woods. The town of Stamfford appears very fine on the Left hand and most noble woods on the Right hand. The house Looks very nobly; y^e Garden very fine within one another w^th Lower and higher walls deck’d with all Sorts of trees and Greens; very fine Gravell walks and Grass squaires w^th Statues and fine Grass walks, dwarfs and all sorts of Green trees and Curious things: very fine fountaines, there is one in the middle of the Garden thats just to y^e Middle also of the house, that is of an exceeding great size. There is a fine vineyard, Warren and Groves w^ch makes its prospects very delightfull.

You enter a large Court walled, thence to a Space of Ground pretty Large, Encompass’d round w^th a little wall of a yard High of free Stone very ffine wrought, on which are to be Iron railes and spires, that was not ffinish’d nor the space paved which is design’d to be of broad Stone: all before the house the little breast wall is in a Compass Like a halfe Moone.

The Sides up to the house are built in roomes for appartments, you ascend the house by Stone Steps—about 12—that all turn round; the upper Stepp is at Least 20 foot steps in Compass; the door you enter is of Iron Carv’d the ffinest I ever saw all sort of Leaves, flowers, figures, birds, beasts, wheate in y^e Carving; very Large y^e doors are—there is an Inside doore as Case to it. On the other side of the house is Such another door that Leads into a Court. The hall is a noble roome painted ffinely, y^e walls with armory and Battles; its Lofty and paved with black and white Marble. You go thence into parlours, dineing rooms, drawing roomes and bed Chambers one leading out of 53another, at Least 20 that were very Large and Lofty, and most fine Carving in the Mantlepieces, and very fine paint in pictures, but they were all Without Garments or very little, that was the only fault, the immodesty of y^e Pictures, Especially in My Lords appartment. This bed Chamber was ffurnish’d very Rich, the tapistry was all blew Silke and Rich Gold thread, so that the Gold appeared for y^e Light part of all the worke. There was a blew velvet bed with gold ffringe and very Richly Embroidered, all the Inside with ovals on the head piece and tester, where the figures are so finely wrought in Satten stitch it Looks Like painting. There is also My Ladys appart^t, Severall roomes very Richly ffurnished and very ffine tapistry with Silver and gold in Most; there was at Least 4 velvet beds 2 plaine and 2 figured—Crimson—green—Severall Coullours together in one; Severall Damaske beds and some tissue beds all ffinely Embroydered. My Ladys Closet is very ffine, the wanscoate of the best Jappan, the Cushons very Rich Work: there is a great deale of fine worke under Glasses and a Glass case full of all Sorts of Curiosityes of Amber stone Currall and a world of fine things. My Lord Excetter in his travells was for all sorts of Curious things if it Cost him never so much, and a great many of my Ladyes fine things were given her by her Mother y^e Countess of Devonshire. There is a Chamber My Lady used to Lye in in the Winter, a green velvet bed and the hangings are all Embroydery of her Mothers work very ffine; the Silk Looks very fresh and ffigures Look naturall.

There is a drawing room by that, w^ch has a great Curiosity that my Lord brought from beyond sea, on the Mantlepiece under a glass; its nunns work the ffinest Embroidery that it Looks just Like point or the ffinest Linnen you can see; this Cost a great Sume. There are fine Chimney pieces of Marble and the windows the same, there are at least 20 rooms very Large and Lofty that are all painted on the top; there are at Least 20 on y^e other side of the house all w^th different ffrett work on the Ceiling, besides almost as many more roomes that are a building. Some the floores Not Laid, others Not ffinish’d y^t the house will 54be a vast thing wⁿ done. The floores were Inlaid in severall roomes, the Chapple is old and not to abide, the painting is good but the place is not Suteable to any part Else. The great variety of the roomes and ffine works tooke me up 2 full hours to go from one Roome to another over the house. The Bowling-green, Wilderness, nor Walke I was not in, being so great a tract of ground, but you see it all at a view on y^e top of y^e house; it is Esteemed the ffinest house and scituation that is in England and will be very Compleate when ffinish’d.

From thence we went to Streton 6 mile, a Little house of one Mr Horsman; very good Plantations of trees about it—Stone building. Rutlandshire seems more woody and Inclosed than some others. Thence to Colson where Lincolnshire Comes in; 2 mile thence towards Lincoln we go on a fine Champion Country much Like Salisbury plaine, and a Large prospect all round—at a distance you See woods and towns. This is the best part of this shire for most part is ffenny, and we went twenty six Miles all on Such Way quite to Lincoln town. We pass by Grantum which is a good town 16 mile from Lincoln, all built with Stone, but Lies down in a Low bottom. The Church has a very high Steeple, its Seen above a Great hill that is by it of a great Length and its a long tyme wⁿ you see a great part of the Steeple before you come to see the Church or town it Lies so in a bottom. Lincoln opens to view at Least 6 miles off; it Stands on a very high hill and Looks very ffine; at the Entrance the houses Stand Compact together. The Streetes are but Little but its a vast hill to ascend into the town where the Minster stands, by that Means its very perspicious and Eminently in view a great Many Miles off. The tower, that Great Thoms nest, is 250 steps up, 8 persons may very well Stand up in the hollow of the bell together, its as much as a man Can Reach to the top of the bell with his hand when he is in the Inside; its rarely Ever rung but only by Ringing the Clapper to Each Side w^ch we did and that sounds all over the town. The houses are but small and not lofty nor y^e Streetes of any breadth. The Sea has formerly Come up to the town and y^re has been very 55deep water where now great part of y^e town is built, so y^t what was y^e town formerly is that w^ch stands upon a precipice as it were of a hill. Y^e water is Choake up now and y^e sea Comes not near in Severall Miles and what water they have is Called Lincoln Dike—you pass it over on a bridge. We went thence by many very ffine Seates, we pass by S^r John Brownlows and Severall others; thence to Newark 12 mile in Nottinghamshire; just by it you see a very pretty new house of brick building of the Lord Lexingtons, w^th the walls and towers that Looks very Well. Newark is a very neate Stone built town, the Market place is very Large and Look’d ffine; just by it is the Great Church w^ch is Large and with a very high Spire, there is prayers twice a day in it. There remaines the holes in the Church walls that the bullets made which were shott into the town in the Siege Laid to it by the Parliament army in the Civil warrs: the Castle was then demolish’d so y^t only the ruinated walls remaine w^ch is washed by a very pretty river. At this we Enter Nottinghamshire and here I met w^th the strongest and best Nottingham ale that Looked very pale but Exceeding Clear. Thence to Nottingham town, its 12 mile more and we ffery’d over the Trent w^ch in some places is so deep, but waggons and horses ffords it. I rode along 7 or 8 mile by the Trent w^ch is a ffine River tho’ not so broad as the Thames is at Kingston, but it look’d very pleasant to Ride by its bancks for so many miles, and on the other side was a high Ridge of hills shaded over from the top to the bottom w^th fine trees and this for Severall Miles. When on the other hand you see a vast bottom Called Note Vale, y^e wood belongs to one M^r Heckam. You pass by severall pretty houses by the river Side, Stone buildings, good Gardens, and a Little farther you see the Lord Kingstons house w^ch is Contigeous to Nottingham town, called Home Peirpoynt w^ch Looks finely in woods. The town of Nottingham is the neatest town I have seen, built of stone and delicate, Large and long Streetes much like London, and y^e houses Lofty and well built. The Market place is very broad, out of w^ch runns a very Large Streete much like Holborn but the buildings ffine, and there is a Pyaza all 56along one side of one of the Streetes, w^th Stone pillars for walking that runns the Length of the Streetes w^ch is a mile long. All the Streetes are of a good size all about y^e town and well pitch’d, there are severall good houses in the town. There are 3 or 4 Large houses of the Duke of New-Castles w^th the Castle w^ch is a fine thing—stands very high on a hill—and when you Come to the Castle you ascend 40 Steps to the Court and hall. The roomes are very Lofty and Large, 6 or 7 state roomes and a long gallery hung with fine Pictures of the ffamily; the wanscoate is most of Cedar. Some Roomes are hung with good tapistry. The Chamber of State is hung w^th very Rich tapistry so much silver and gold in it that the 3 pieces that hung the Roome Cost 1500^£: the bed was rail’d in as y^e presence Chamber used to be, y^e bed was damaske. The floore of the roome was jnlay’d w^th Cyphers and the Corronet: here y^e Princess Ann Lay when she fled in King James’s tyme when the prince of orange was Coming over. On the Leads you have a very fine prospect of y^e whole town and river; You see the Earle of Kingstones and S^r Thomas Willoughby’s fine house on y^e other side of y^e town, and at a distance we see Beavior Castle the Earle of Rutland’s house, and a prospect more than 20 mile about, shewing the diversityes of Cultivation and produce of the Earth. The land is very Rich and fruitfull, so the Green Meadows w^th the fine Corrn ffields w^ch seemes to bring forth in handfulls. They soe most of Barley and have great Encrease, there is all sorts of Graine besides, and plaines and Rivers and Great woods and Little towns all in view. They make brick and tile by y^e town—the Manufacture of the town mostly Consists in weaving of Stockings w^ch is a very Ingenious art. There was a man that spunn glass and made Severall things in glass—birds and beasts. I spunn some of the glass and saw him make a swan presently w^th divers Coull’d glass; he makes Buttons w^ch are very strong and will not breake. Nottingham is ffamous for good ale, so for Cellars, they are all dugg out of the Rocks and so are very Coole. Att y^e Crown Inn is a Cellar of 60 stepps down, all in y^e Rock Like arch worke over your head: in y^e Cellar I dranke 57good ale. We were very well Entertained and very Reasonably att the Blackmoors head; thence we went to Mansfield 12 mile and pass’d some part of the fine fforest of Sherwood. Mansfield is a Little Market town built with Stone, there is a Little river; they make and dye Tammy’s here. There is one pretty Stone built house just by the water side of 40 Stepps ascent into it. At the End of the town is an hospital built by a quaker for ancient people, its a good neat building, they were to have 8 pound a year a piece and the roomes and Gardens, but its Chiefly for their friends. There is nothing remarkable here but the dearness of y^e Inns, tho’ in so plentifull a Country. We went thence to Wursup and went through a parke of y^e Duke of New-Castles and by his house Calld Welbeake. Ye house is but old and Low buildings, but the parke is the Noblest wood I Ever saw, fine and stately Straight. A mile thence is a fine pile of Buildings of Stone very uniforme and high Called Worsup Mannour built by a Coe heir of the Devonshire house—3 sisters built 3 noble buildings, this and Ardeck and Chattsworth. A little beyond this is another Building the remaines of Worsup Abby. All the way to Blith is a very heavy Sandy Way 12 miles. At Blith was a very Sweete house and Gardens and Grounds, it was of Brick work Coyn’d with Stones and the Windows with Stone, all sashes; the building was so neate and Exact, it was Square w^th 4 juttings out at Each Corner; it Stands high and Commands the Sight of the Country about. The fine river by it with fish ponds and Meadows and fine woods beyond makes it look very pleasant. The Gardens are very neate and after the London Mode, of Gravel and Grass walks and Mount, and the Squaires with dwarfes and Cyprus, ffirre and all sorts of Greens and fruite trees, its very ffruitefull—I Eate good fruite there. Its just by the Church so that a Large Arch w^ch did belong to the Church is now made a shady Seate to the Garden with Greens over it, under w^ch is a Sepulchre for y^e ffamily. It belongs to one M^r Mellish a Merchant in London, its in all parts a most Compleate thing and its scituation most pleasant. Almost all y^e road between this and DonCaster is sandy 58way, to Rosdin 3 mile, thence to DonCaster 6 miles—here Yorkshire beginns and here the Musick wellcom’d us into Yorkshire. DonCaster is a pretty Large town of Stone buildings, the streetes are good, there is a handsome Market Cross advanc’d on 20 steps at Least. The Church is neate and pretty Large, Severall Little Monuments. This town stands on the River Don, w^ch gives name to the town, here is also a good Large Meeteing place. We were here the Lord’s day and well Entertained at the Angel. Thence we went to Wentbridge and pass’d by woods belonging to S^r Wentworth by his house 7 mile to Wentbridge, where had been a fire the night before Caused by the Lightening and thunder w^ch was remarkably great as we took notice of, 2 barnes and a house was burnt.

Thence we ascended a very Steepe hill and so to Fferrybridge 3 mile where we pass’d the fine River Called the Aire, Large for Barges as was most of those Rivers I have mention’d.

From thence to TodCaster 8 mile, w^ch is a very good Little town for travellers, mostly jnns and little tradesmens houses. This stands on a very large River Called the Whart. Just before you Come to y^e town there is some of y^e water w^ch on Great raines are not to be pass’d—it was very deep when I went through. Thence we go much on a Causey to Yorke 8 miles more, it stands high but for one of the Metropolis and the see of y^e Archbishopp it Makes but a meane appearance. The Streetes are Narrow and not of any Length, save one w^ch you Enter of from the bridge that is over the Ouise which Lookes like a fine River when full after much raine. It is but Low in Comparison of Some Rivers, it bears Great Barges, it Looks muddy, its full of good ffish. We Eate very good Cod fish and Salmon and that at a pretty Cheape rate, tho’ we were not in the best jnn for the Angel is the best in Cunny Streete. The houses are very Low and as jndifferent as in any Country town and the Narrowness of y^e Streetes makes it appear very mean.

Nottingham is so farre before it for its size—its true Nottingham is not a quarter so bigg, Else y^e Streetes and buildings are so Much Nobler as Can be jmagin’d; it Lookes 59better att the approach because you see the towers off y^e gates and Severall Churches in Compassing y^e Minster and all y^e Windmills round y^e town of w^ch there are many. Y^e River runns through the town and so its divided, y^e buildings Look No better than the outskirts off London Wappen &c. The Bridg is fine arches and built on with houses; the Pavements w^ch is Esteem’d the Chiefe part of town where y^e Market house and town hall stands is so mean that Southwarke is much before it. There are a Great Many pretty Churches 16 in Number, but the minster is a noble building and holds in view at Least 30 miles before you Come to it. I saw it and also at y^t distance, and saw just by it a high hill or ffortification it appeared to be, but when I Came to York I found it to be only a very high hill w^th stately high trees on it as thick as Could be, a Noble Grove. The Minster is very Large and fine of Stone, Carv’d all the outside, 3 high towers above the Leads; I was in one of them, the highest, and it was 262 steps and those very Steep Steps, there is a Gallery round the middle of the Church about halfe way that goes off these steps of the tower, where you may go round and Looke down into the body of y^e Church and y^t was so great a distance that the men and Ladyes that were Walking below look’d like Pigmyes a very little to us above. On the Leads of y^e tower Shews a vast prospect of the Country, at Least 30 mile round, you see all over the town y^t Lookes as a building too much Cluster’d together, y^e Streetes being so narrow—some were pretty Long. There is another river w^ch fills the ditches round the town Called Ffosse. In the Minster there is the Greatest Curiosity for Windows I ever saw, they are so large and so Lofty, those in the Quire at y^e End and on Each side that is 3 storys high and painted very Curious with History of y^e Bible; the painting is very fine such as was in Kings Chapple in Cambridge, but the Loftyness of y^e windows is more than I ever saw any Where Else and by all accounts is peculiar; There is such another Window at the End of the Cross jsle just by y^e Quire—all y^e other Windows are of y^e usual Size of other Cathedralls. Ye body of y^e Church is large and I thinke Larger than any Cathedrall I have seen, 60bigger than Winchester Cathedrall. All these Isles are broad the people of ffashion use them to Walke in and on that account its much [something left out] they keep it not Cleaner, the Quire has a very good Carving in Wood about it, there is a very good Organ, the table cloth and Cushons and books at y^e Comunion table was Crimson velvet and hangings, and its Embroyder’d very Richly w^th gold of a Great depth, and Gold ffringe at y^e bottom: this was Given y^e Church by Doctor Lamplue y^t was the Arch-bishop whose Statue is in White Marble in y^e wall w^th Mitre and shepherds Crook. Just by him is ye Effigy of another Bishop Laying along cut in Stone, and by the aire and Mien he looks more Like a Soldier or Beau than a Bishop and so it seemes he was in humour. The Embriodery at the table is almost yard deep, that was given by Lamplue. In the vestry there is a well of Sweet spring-water called S^t Peter’s well, y^e S^t of the Church, so it is S^t Peters y^e Cathedrall is. There is a large hunters horne tipt with Silver and Garnish’d over and Engraved ffinely all double Gilt w^th a Chaine, the same given by a Gentleman that also gave his Estate to add to the revenues of y^e Church, on a dislike to disobedient Children; he used the horne When he hunted and drank in it too. I saw there the ffine tissue Cannopy that was held over the head of King James the first when he Came into England and y^e head of 2 mace w^ch were Carry’d before him then. There I saw a Chest that was Triangular fashion, the Shape of y^e Coapes when folded in y^e Middle and so put into this Chest. The Chapter house is very finely Carv’d and fine painting on the windows all round, its all arched Stone and Supported by its own Work haveing no pillars to Rest on, tho’ its Length and breadth be Equal and at Least 24 ffoot Each. Here was a mint for Coyning the old money and plaite into new mill’d money; I saw them at work and Stamp’d one halfe Crown my Self—they dispatch worke very fast and have Coyn’d Severall 1000_£. I see all parts of the work about y^e pounding, the boyling, defineing and makeing Barres and Cutting out in y^e mill and Bakeing and Stamping, all but Milling which art they are Sworne to keep private.

61 The Bishops Seate was 4 or 5 mile out of town on the River Ouise. Ffrom thence we went over a marshy Comon to the Spaw at Marsborough 12 mile; the town is a pretty stone building, in it a large Market place; there is a River, the water Looks black, I ffancy it runns off from the Iron and sulpher mines which Changes the Coull^r;—We pass it over on a large bridge, tho’ in some places they may ford it, its all on a Rock and the Sides of the hill by y^e River is all rock and the Little houses are all built in the Rocks, there is a little Chapple cut out of the Rock and arch’d and Carved w^th ffigures of Saints, I suppose its Called S^r Robert Chapple he was Esteemed a very devout man, his Effigee is Carv’d at the Entrance, there is an alter y^t was deck’d w^th flowers and the Ground w^th Rushes for y^e devout that did frequent it. Severall Papists there about and many that Came to y^e Spaw and S^t Mongers well did say their prayers there. There was a Manuscript w^th a long story of this S^r Robert. There is also the ruines of an abbey where there has been many bones taken up and some preserv’d as Reliques—there was a papist Lady Lodg’d where we did and our Land Lady at y^e Inn where we were treated Civily she told us she went with this Lady among these ruines where the Lady would say her prayers, and one day some had been digging and brought up y^e bone of a mans arme and hand and y^e Ligature of y^e Elbow held y^e bones together w^ch by Strikeing Came asunder, and in y^e hollow part of y^e joynt was a jelly like blood that was moist, this Lady dipp’d y^e End of her handkerchief in it and so Cut it off and put it up as a Relique. There are y^e ruinated walls of the Castle remaines but of no use, but some part is made a prison and some vaults made Cellars. I dranke very Strong Clear ale in one of those Cellars.

We were in a very pretty Garden of a Gentlemans of our LandLady Mason’s acquaintance where was all manner of Curiosityes of fflowers and Greens—Great variety—there is also a Cherry Garden with Green walkes for y^e Company to walk in and a Great Seate in a high tree that gives a pleasant prospect.

62 From thence we went over to Haragate w^ch is just by the Spaw, two mile further over a Common that belongs to Knarsborough; its all marshy and wett and here in the Compass of 2 miles is 4 very different springs of water; there is the Sulpher or Stincking spaw, not Improperly term’d for the Smell being so very strong and offensive that I could not force my horse Near the Well; there are two Wells together with basons in them that the Spring rises up in, which is ffurr’d with a White Scumm which rises out of the water, if you keep it in a Cup but a few hours it will have such a white Scumm on it, not withstanding it rises out of y^e Spring very Cleare and so being a quick Spring itt Soone purges it Self Cleare againe, it Comes from Brimstone mines, for the taste and smell is much of Sulpher, tho’ it has an additionall offenciveness Like Carrion. The Ground is Bitumus or the Like that it runns over, it has a quality of Changing Silver into y^e Coull^r of Copper and that in a few minutes, much quicker than the Baths in the West County in Somersetshire. Its a quick purger and very good for all Scurbutick humours, some persons drink a quart or two, I dranke a quart in a Morning for two dayes and hold them to be a good Sort of Purge if you Can hold y^r breath so as to drinke them down. Within a quarter of a mile is the sweete spaw or Chalibiet, a Spring which rises off Iron and steele like Astrup or Tunbridge and Like the German Spaw. This is a quick Spring and the Well made up with a bason, and a Cover of Stone over it Like an arch; this opperates as all jron springs does, tho I Could not find them so strong or spiriteous as those at Tunbridge. One thing I observ’d of the Stinking spaw tho’ its taste and opperation was like the Somersetshire bathes, yet this was not warme in the Least as those Bathes are. Just Between these two spaws is a fine Cleare and sweete Spring of Comon water very good to wash Eyes and pleasant to Drinke. The ffourth Spring w^ch is but two mile off these is of a petrifying quality turnes all things into stone. It rises in a banck on y^e top of a hill and so runns along in a little Channell about a foote over and all the Ground it runns over is moorish and full of 63holes with water Standing in it, w^ch stincks just like the Sulpher Spaw and will turn Silver to the Coullour of Copper as y^t does. Notwithstanding this Clear spring runns through it with a Swift Current to the brow of y^e hill and then it spreads it Self all round y^e hill w^ch is a Rock, and so runns down all over the brow of y^e hill Continually, like a Nasty shower of Small and Great Raine, and so it meetes in y^e bottom and runns all into the river Knarsborough, and this water as it runns—where it Lyes in the hollows of y^e Rock does turn moss and wood into Stone or rather Crusts or Candys wood. I saw some w^ch had a perfect Shell of stone about it, but they tell me it does in tyme penetrate through the Wood. I took Moss myself from thence which is all Crisp’d and perfect Stone; all the Grass Straws or any thing that the water falls upon it does Convert to hardness like Stone. Y^e Whole rock is Continually dropping with water besides y^e Showering from the top w^ch ever runns and this is Called the dropping well. There is an arbour and y^e Company used to Come and Eat a Supper there in any Evening to have the pleaseing prospect and the murmuring Shower to Divert their Eare; in a good Space of tyme it will harden Ribon Like Stone or any thing Else.

Ffrom Harragate to Cockgrave is 6 mile where is a Spring of exceeding Cold Water Called S^t Mongers Well; the Story is of a Child y^t was Laid out in y^e Cold for the parishes Care and when the Church-Wardens found it they took Care of it—a new born Infant—and when it was baptised they gave it the Name of “Amongst” because they said the Child must be kept among them, and as the papist sayes he was an Ingenious Child and so attained Learning and was a very religious man and used this spring to wash himself; after sometymes that he had gotten prefferrment and so grew Rich he walled the Spring about and did many Cures on diseased bodies by batheing in it, w^ch Caused after his death people to frequent the Well w^ch was an Inconveniency to y^e Owners of y^e ground, and so they forbad people Coming and Stopped up y^e Well; and the Story sayes on that severall judgments Came on the 64owners of y^e Ground and y^e Spring broke up all about his Ground w^ch forced him to open it againe and render it usefull to all that would Come to Washe in it—thus farre of y^e fable.

Now the Spring is in use and a high wall round it, Y^e Well is about 4 or 5 Yards square and round the brimm is a walke of Broad stone round. There are 4 or 5 Steps down to the bottom, it is no deeper at Some places then a Little above y^e Waste, not up to y^e Shoulders of a woman, and you may kneel on a flatt Stone and it Comes to y^r Chin—this the papists made use of very much. At one Corner the Springs rise they are very quick and there is a Sluce that it Continually runns off so as to keep just at the same depth, and it runns off so fast and y^e Springs supply so fast that it Clears the Well presently after any body has been in. I allwayes Chose to be just where y^e springs rise that is much the Coldest and it throws off anything in the Well to y^e Sluce. Setting aside y^e papists ffancyes of it I cannot but think it is a very good Spring being remarkably Cold and just at y^e head of y^e Spring, so its ffresh w^ch must needs be very strengthning; it Shutts up the pores of y^e body immeadiately, so fortifyes from Cold, you Cannot bear ye Coldness of it above 2 or 3 minutes and then you Come out and walke round y^e pavement and then in againe, and so 3 or 4 or 6 or 7 as many tymes as you please. You go in and out in Linnen Garm^ts, some go in fflannell; I used my bath Garm^ts and so pulled them off and put on flannell when I Came out to go into the bed which is best; but some Came at a distance—so did I and did not go into bed—but some will keep on their wet Garments and let them drye to them and say its more beneficial, but I did not venture it. I dipp’d my head quite over every tyme I went in and found it Eased a Great pain I used to have in my head, and I was not so apt to Catch Cold so much as before w^ch I imputed to the Exceeding Coldness of y^e Spring that shutts up the pores of the body. Its thought it runns off of some very Cold spring and from Clay. Some of y^e papists I saw there had so much Zeale as to Continue a quarter of an hour on their knees at their prayers in y^e Well, but none else Could 65well endure it so long at a tyme, I went in 7 Severall seasons and 7 tymes Every Season and would have gone in oftener Could we have Staid longer. We went back to Harragat 6 mile and then we went to Burrough Bridge 8 mile—a famous place for Salmon, but then we Could not meete with any, but we had a very Large Codfish there above a yard long and more than halfe a yard in Compass very fresh and good and Cost but 8 pence. I saw as big a one bought then for 6 pence and six Crabbs as big as my two hands, the Least was bigger than one of my fists, all cost but 3 pence. Thence to Harragate 8 mile, then we went and Laid at Knarsburoughe 2 mile, w^ch was nearer to S^t Mungers Well, for we went it twice from Harragate and back w^ch was 12 mile more and found it too farre to go in an afternoon—from Knarsburough it was but 4 mile; we went it four tymes and back w^ch was 16 miles and we went afterwards to Harraget 3 tymes and back 12 mile more. From Knarsborough we went to Rippon a pretty Little market town mostly built of Stone, 8 mile, a Large Market place with a high Cross of severall Stepps; we were there the Market day where provisions are very plentifull and Cheape.

In the Market was sold then 2 good Shoulders of veal, they were not very fatt nor so large as our meate in London but good meate, one for 5^d the other for 6^d, and a good quarter of Lamb for 9^d or 10^d, and its usual to buy a very good Shoulder of Veale for 9 pence, and a quarter of Beefe for 4 shillings; Indeed it is not large ox Beef but good Middling Beasts: and Craw ffish 2^d a Dozⁿ—so we bought them.

Notwithstanding this plenty some of y^e Inns are very dear to Strangers that they Can impose on. The town Stands on a hill and there is a good large Stone built Church well Carved, they Call it a minster. There is very fine painting over the alter, it Looks so natural just like Real Crimson satten with gold ffringe like hangings, and Severall rows of Pillars in jsles on Either side w^ch looks very naturall. There are two good Bridges to the town, one was a rebuilding, pretty large with Severall arches Called Hewet 66bridge—its often out of repaire by reason of the force of y^e water that Swells after great raines, yet I see they made works of wood on purpose to breake the violence of y^e Streame and y^e Middle arche is very Large and high.

There are Severall good houses about y^e town and Severall Gentlemens Seates about a mile or two distance: 2 mile off is a fine place of S^r Edw^d Blackets, it looks finely in y^e approach in the Midst of a good parke, and a River runns just by it, it stands in the middle and has two Large Gardens on Each side. You Enter one through a Large Iron Barr-gate painted Green and gold tops and Carv’d in Severall places, this is ffine Gravel walks between grass plotts 4 Square, with 5 brass Statues Great and Small in Each square, and full of borders of flowers and Green banks with flower potts. On y^e other side of y^e house is just such a Garden, only the walkes are all grass rowl’d and the Squares are full of dwarfe trees, both ffruites and green, set Cross wayes w^ch Lookes very finely. There is a flower Garden behind y^e house; in it and beyond it a Landry Close, with frames for drying of Cloths, walled in. There are good Stables and Coach house and all the offices are very Convenient—very good Cellars all arch’d, and there I dranke small beer four years old not too Stale, very Clear good Beer well brew’d. Their kitching, pastry and pantry &c all very Convenient; in y^e pantry hangs a picture of y^e dimentions of a large ox y^t was fed in these grounds w^th y^e accò of its weight. Y^e Quarters was 106 Stone 1^£ and y^e hide was 12 stone and 8 pound, the tallow was 19 stone, the head 4 stone, y^e Legs and feate weigh’d 3 stone 11^£. This Gentleman breeds and feeds much Cattle in his grounds and has one of y^e largest Beeves in England.

his house is built with bricke and Coyn’d w^th stone w^th a flatt Roofe Leaded, w^th railes and Barristers, and a large Cupilow in y^e middle—you may see a Greate way round y^e Country. Y^e ffront Entrance is 3 gates of Iron Barres and spikes, painted blew with gold tops, and brick work between y^e gates and pillars with stone tops Carv’d Like flower potts; y^e pillars all Coyn’d with Stone. Y^e Middle gate is made large in a Compass like a halfe Moone.

67 There are four more spaces in the wall open with Iron barres and spikes, 2 of w^ch are in each side into y^e Gardens, and answers two Like them on the other side of the Gardens. The two other are Less and are at y^e End of a terrass walk just along y^e Entrance w^ch you ascend by Steps from the Middle gate; they are all adorned with brick pillars Coyn’d w^th stone and Stone heads—these are all painted blew and gold tipps. From the Terrass you have a Court y^t Leads into y^e middle of y^e house into a large hall; over y^e doore at y^e Entrance is a fine Carving of stone w^th Leaves and flowers with fine stone pillars, and y^e Armes Cutt finely, there is a fine dyal and Clock above all. The hall you Enter is of a very good size and height. 2 dineing roomes and drawing roomes, one for the Summer with a marble floore, 6 or 7 Chambers off a good size and lofty, so y^e most of y^e beds were two foote too low w^ch was pitty they being good beds, one was Crimson ffigured velvet, 2 damaske beds, the rest moehaire and Cambet. Y^e roomes were mostly wanscoated and painted. Y^e best roome was painted just like marble—few roomes were hung. The ffurniture was very neately kept and so was the whole house, the roofe of y^e Staires was finely painted, there was Severall pictures but not Set up the house being in mourning for his Lady, and her mother the Lady Yorke, w^ch dyed in a month or two of Each other. She left S^r Edward 10 Children, he has a great state and will have the 2000 P ^an fall to him that is Lady Mary Ffenwichs anuity. he was a merchants son at Bristol. The house is served with water by pipes into a Cistern into y^e Garden, Cellars and all offices. This was the ffinest house I saw in Yorkshire. We returned to Knarsborough 9 mile and from thence we went to York againe 12 mile, this was y^e worst Rideing in Yorkshire, then we passed thro’ York town by another gate towards Hull, and y^t Streete was Larger and better buildings than what I saw before in Yorke, and here we pass over the muddy River, Called the muddy Ffosse. We passed over the river Derwent that runns through the middle of Derbyshire to Born Bridge 9 mile, Whitten 6 miles a Little neate Thatch’d town of a mile long where we Lay, and passed by Burlington 68Lord Cliffords house that stood in a bottom amongst trees and Look’d well, and they Say is well painted and good ffurniture, but I saw not y^e Inside, only pass’d by it. There we had a very Large Salmon that Cost and y^e sauce but 18^d, it was very ffresh and good and above 3 quarters of a yard long. Thence to Beverly 9 miles w^ch is a very fine town for its size, its prefferable to any town I saw but Nottingham. There are 3 or 4 Large Streetes well pitch’d bigger than any in York, the other Lesser Streets about y^e town being Equal with them. The Market Cross is Large, there are 3 markets, one for beasts another for Corne and another for ffish, all Large, the town is Serv’d with Water by wells walled up round or rather in a Square, above halfe ones length, and by a pully and weight letts down or draws up the Buckat w^ch is Chained to y^e beame of y^e pully. There are many of these wells in all the streetes it seemes its in Imitation of Holland, they being supply’d with water soe. The buildings are new and pretty Lofty, the Minster has been a ffine building all stone, Carv’d on the outside w^th ffigures and Images, and more than 100 pedastalls that remaine where Statues has stood of angels and the like. The wood worke in the quire is very ffine. Just by the Comunion table is the Sanctuary or place of Refuge where Criminalls flee for Safety—its a Seate of Stone work Cut all in one.

Earle of Northumberland’s and Lady’s Monuments—his is very plaine, only a marble Stone raised up with Stone about 2 yards high; his Name, by means of his great atchievments in the Barrons warre, great Percy Earle of Northumberland, is monument Enough to posterity. His tombe was a little fallen in and a hole So bigg as many put their hands in and touch’d the body w^ch was much of it Entire of y^e bonds; the Skull was whole and the teeth firme, tho’ of so many yeares standing. The Countess’s monument is very fine, its made of y^e same free stone y^e Church is built w^th, but so finely polished y^t it looks like Marble, and Carv’d w^th figures, birds leaves, flowers, beasts and all sorts of things and y^e armes is Cutt out in severall places all about it; the top of the arch is one Entire Stone 69as much as one Can Grasp and its all finely Carv’d w^th all sorts of Curiosityes and adorn’d with Gilding and painting.

There are 4 good monuments all of marble of y^e Wharton ffamily. In the middle of y^e Church is y^e tomb of S^t John with a brass Inscription on y^e pavement, and at a little distance they shew’d us the wearing of y^e pavement with y^e obeisance of his votarys, this being S^t John of Beverly. At the End of y^e Church is y^e ffont, y^e upper part of it, that is the bason was of one Entire marble of a Darke Coullour. Y^e Cover was Carv’d Exactly and of a Piramidy fform and very high. There is another Church Called S^t Mary’s y^t is very large and good I thought that had been the Minster at first Entrance of y^e town; there is the prayers Everyday and its used on all accounts and so the other is neglected. This has a quire in which they were preaching wⁿ we were there. There is a very good free schoole for boys, they say y^e best in England for Learning and Care w^ch makes it fill’d with Gentlemens Sons besides the free Schollars from all parts—provision being very Cheape here. I was offered a large Codffish for a shilling and good Pearch very Cheape, we had Crabbs bigger than my two hands pence apiece w^ch would have Cost 6 pence if not a shilling in London and they were very sweete. From thence we went to Hull 6 mile all upon a Caussey secured w^th two little rivers running on Each Side w^ch is used to flow over their grounds it being a Great fflatt severall miles, and the meadows are Cloth’d w^th good Grass by y^t means. The river Hull runns from Beverly at the town End, just by y^e Minster you Cross it, this runns to Hull, y^e town is properly Called so from that River, but its name is Kingston on y^e Hull, being built on y^t River w^ch runns into y^e Humber w^ch is a noble River—y^e mouth of it opens just ag^st this town. The buildings of Hull are very neate good streets, its a good tradeing town by means of this great River Humber y^t Ebbs and flows Like the Sea, and is 3 or 4 mile over at y^e Least; it runns 20 mile hence into y^e Sea and takes in all y^e great Rivers—y^e Trent Ouise, Aire, Don, y^e Derwent and y^e Hull, and Carries much water that a man of warre of all sorts Can Ride. I was on board a new man of warre y^t 70belonged to the town and Called y^e Kingston, it was but small, well Compact for provision and was built fit for swift saileing. The Humber is very salt, allwayes it rowles and tosses just like y^e Sea, only y^e soile being Clay turnes y^e Water and waves yellow and soe it differs from y^e Sea in Coullour, not Else—its a hazardous water by reason of many shoares y^e tides meete. I was on it a pretty way and it seemes more turbulent than y^e Thames at Gravesend.

We enter y^e town of Hull from y^e Southward over two drawbridges and gates, there is the Same Entrance in another part of y^e town by 2 gates and 2 drawbridges from Holderness, and so y^e ditches are round y^e town to y^e Landward, and they Can by them floate y^e grounds for 3 mile round w^ch is a good ffortification. The Garrison and plattforme w^ch is the ffortification to y^e Sea is in a very uniforme ffigure and were it ffinished is thought it would be the ffinest ffortification that Could be seen—its wall’d and pallisadoed. I walked round it, and viewed it and when I was on y^e water, it seemes to runn a great Length and would require many Soldiers to deffend y^e halfe moons and workes. In the town there is an hospitall y^ts Called y^e Trinity house, for Seamens widdows, 30 is their Completm^t, their allowance 16^d p^r weeke and ffewell, they have a little Chapple to it for prayers; over this building is a large roome for Cordage and sailes, where they make them and keep their Stores. In the middle of this roome there hangs a Canoe to y^e Roofe of y^e Roome just bigg Enough for one man to sit in, and the Effigie of a man that was taken w^th it, all his Cloths Cap and a Large bag behind him where in his ffish and provision were, these were all made of y^e skin of ffishes and were y^e same w^ch he wore when taken, y^e forme of his face is only added and just resemble y^e wild man that they took, for so the Inscription Calls him, or y^e bonny boate man; he was taken by Cap^tn Baker and there are his oars and spear y^t was with him—this is all written on y^e boat to perpetuate y^e memory of it; he would not speak any Language or word to them y^t took him nor would he Eate, so in a few dayes died. There is a good large Church in Hull. You Enter a large jsle just in the 71Middle that runns quite aCross through the Church, and divides the body of the Church w^th y^e pulpet and pews on one Side with a partition of wood Carv’d, and on the other side was such another partition for y^e Chancell, and I observ’d there their alter stood tablewise for y^e Comunion just in the middle of y^e Chancell, as it was in the primitive tymes before Popery Came in. There was Severall Little monuments of marble in y^e walls. Ffrom thence to Beverly againe 6 mile w^ch is all a flatt, thence to Brance Burton 8 mile, all likewise on a Levell w^ch they Call Loughs. Here we Could get no accomodation at a Publick house, it being a Sad poore thatch’d place and only 2 or 3 Sorry Alehouses, no lodgings but at y^e hall house as it was Called Where liv’d a Quaker w^ch were Sufficient people. The rooms were good old rooms being y^e Lord of the mannours house—these were but tennants—but did Entertain us kindly, made two good beds for us and also for our Servants, and good bread and Cheese, bacon and Eggs. Thence we went to Agnes-Burton 7 mile, the miles are long and so they are in most part of these Northern County’s. This is the East Rideing of Yorkshire and we saw y^e Session house at Beverly for this Rideing.

Agnes Burton is a Seate of S^r Griffith Boyntons, Grandson to S^r ffrancis w^ch married my father’s Sister one of William Lord Viscount Say and Seales Daughters.

It looks finely In the approach. A mile or two off we pass by another of his houses w^ch is newer built and very good Gardens, Called Barmstone,—we Eate some of y^e good ffruite. The house is all built with Bricks and so good Bricke that at 100 years standing no one Brick is faulty; it stands on a pretty ascent. We Enter under a Gate-house built w^th 4 large towers into a Court which is large, in y^e middle is a Bowling green palisado’d round, and y^e Coaches runns round it to the Entrance w^ch is by 10 stepps up to a Tarress, and thence a pav’d walke to y^e house. Cut box and ffilleroy and Lawrell about y^e Court. The ffront Looks very uniform with severall round buildings on each side answerring Each other with Compass windows, and y^e middle is a Round building, and y^e door Enters in in y^e 72side of y^t tower w^ch was y^e old fashion in Building and is like my brother Say’s house at Broughton.

Out of an Entry you Come into a very Lofty good hall, y^e Screen at the Lower End (w^ch divides it from y^e Entry) is ffinely Carv’d, the parlour and drawing roome are well proportion’d roomes, and y^e wanscoate is all well Carv’d, y^e moldings of y^e doores and Chimneys are finely Carv’d w^th Staggs and all sorts of beasts, woods and some leaves and flowers and birds and angells &c. There is beyond this a very good little parlour w^th plaine wanscoate painted in veines like marble, dark and white Streakes. There is a very good dineing roome over this and 5 very good Chambers some well ffurnished, all very neate and Convenient w^th Closetts to their own apartments and Anty roomes. There is much of y^e Same ffine Carving in the dineing roome, the Chambers are all wanscoated and Carv’d, there is a noble gallery over all, with large windows on y^e sides and at Each End painted very Curiously, out of w^ch you view the whole Country round and discover the shipps under saile though at a good distance. The Gardens are large and are Capable of being made very ffine—they now remaine in the old ffashion. There is gravell walks and grass and Close walks, there is one walke all y^e Length of the Garden Called the Crooked walke, of grass well Cutt and rowled, it is indented in and out in Corners, and so is the wall w^ch makes you thinke you are at y^e End off the walke Severall tymes before you are, by means of y^e Codling hedge that is on the other side. This Leads you to a summer house that also opens to a large gravell walke that runns the breadth of y^e Garden to the house ward. From Agnes Burton we went to Scarborough 14 mile. We pass’d from this flatt to Boynton, thence ascended the wouls or high hills so Called in this County, and it prov’d misty w^ch made our observations to be fixed on it that the mist was thicker and more held in those high wouls as raine or mist is in thick trees, so y^e mist was much more there than in y^e plaine, so thick in some you Could not see the top. We descended these high wouls by a steep and hazardous precipice on one Side and y^e way narrow.

73 Scarbrough is a very pretty Sea-port town built on the Side of a high hill. The Church Stands in the most Eminent place above all y^e town and at Least 20 Steps you ascend up into y^e Churchyard. The ruines of a Large Castle remaines, the Walls in Compass Severall acres of ground y^t feeds many beasts and milch Cows. Y^e hill on w^ch the Castle Stands is very Steep and Severall trenches over one another, round the walls all one Side of the Castle Stands out to the sea shore a good Length. Its open to the Main ocean and to secure the harbour there is a mole or halfe moone, two, one within y^e other something resembling the Cobb at Lime in Sommersetshire. The sea when the tide is in is Close up to the town and the bottom of a Ridge of hills that runns from the town 5 or 6 mile in a Compass. When its Ebb water it Leaves y^e shore 400 yards all a flatt, and such good sand, as you presently walke on it without Sinking, y^e Sand is so smooth and firme, and so you may walke 5 or 6 mile on the Sand round by y^e ffoote of this Ridge of hills, w^ch is the poynt by w^ch all the Shipps pass that go to NewCastle or that way. I see 70 saile of shipps pass the point and so Come onward at some Distance off from the Castle, Supposed to be Colliers and their Convoys. On this Sand by the Sea shore is y^e Spaw well w^ch people frequent, and all the diversion is y^e walking on this sand twice a day at y^e Ebb of the tide and till its high tide and then they drink. Its something from an Iron or Steele minerall but by means of the tide flowing on it Every tyme. Especially spring tydes it Covers y^e well quite—and allwayes flowes up just to it, w^ch Leaves a brackish and saltness w^ch makes it purge pretty much, but they say y^e Spring is so quick that it soone Casts off y^e Sea water; but in my opinion is y^t the whole spring and all the Springs that Bubble up all over the sands must be agreable and of the sort of water the sea is, being so just on the sea side and so neare must be Influenc’d by y^e salt water. It seems to be a pretty turbulent Sea, I was on it in a little boate but found it very rough even just in y^e harbour, I suppose the Cause may be from standing so open to y^e Maine. The town has 74abundance of Quakers in it, most of their best Lodgings were In quakers hands, they Entertain all people, soe in Private houses in the town by way of ordinary, so much a Meale and their Ale. Every one finds themselves—there are a few Inns for horses only. I was at a quakers meeteing in the town where 4 men and 2 women spoke one, after another had done, but it seem’d such a Confusion and so inCoherent that it very much moved my Compassion and pitty to see their delusion and Ignorance and no less Excited my thankfullness for the Grace of God that upheld others from such Errors. I observ’d their prayers were all made on the first person and single, though before the body of people; it seems they allow not of ones being the mouth of y^e Rest in prayer to God tho’ it be in the publick meetings. In this town we had good accomodations and on very Reasonable terms. They drye a large ffish Like Codlings and salt them and when you dress them, water them; then they string them on wire, and so Rost them before the fire and make good sauce for them, they Eate very well and as tender as a fresh Codling and very sweete iff they were well cured when they were first taken, Else they will taste stronge.

Thence we went to Maulton 14 miles w^ch is a pretty large town built of Stone but poor; there is a large market place and severall great houses of gentlemens round the town. There was one M^r Paumes that marry’d a relation of mine Lord Ewers Coeheiress who is landlady of almost all y^e town. She has a pretty house in the place. There is the ruins of a very great house w^ch belonged y^e family but they not agreeing about it Caused y^e defaceing of it. She now makes use of y^e roomes off y^e outbuildings and gate house for weaving and Linning Cloth, haveing set up a manuffactory for Linnen w^ch does Employ many poor people. She supply’d me w^th very good beer, for y^e Inn had not the best. Thence to York 14 miles, and so to Tadcaster 8 mile, thence to Aberfford 4 miles all on a heavy bottom, their miles are long and I observe the ordinary people both in these parts of Yorkshire and in the northern parts Can scarce tell you how farre it is to the next place unless it be in the great towns, and there in 75their publick houses, and they tell you its very good yate Instead of Saying it is good way, and they Call their gates yates, and do not Esteem it uphill unless so steep as a house or precipice; they say its good levell gate all along when it maybe there are Severall great hills to pass, but this account did Encrease on us the nearer we Came to Darbyshire, but in Generall they Live much at home and scarce Ever go 2 or 10 mile from thence Especially the women, so may be term’d good housekeepers. To Aberford we Came by severall pretty Seates in view, we Lay at an acquaintances house M^rs Hickeringalls: thence we went to Castleton Bridge 5 mile, where was a glass house; we saw them blowing white glass and neale it in a large oven by the heate of y^e ffurnace. All the Country is full of Coale and the pitts are so thick in y^e roade that it is hazardous to travell for strangers.

Thence to Pomffret 3 miles w^ch Looks very finely in the approach. Its built on a hill all of stone, its a very neate building and y^e streets well pitch’d and broad, the houses well built and looks more stately than any in York, only its not the tenth part so bigg, its a neate little town as I have seen. there are severall very good houses in it, one Doct^r Burgess has built a very good house w^ch is Call’d his ffolly. There is a noble house at the Entrance of the town of y^e Lady Grace Perpoynt, and good Parke Gardens and walks and a great revenue belonging to it,—the Daughter of the Marquis of Dorchesters. There is a ffine Church in the town and as spacious a market place as is at Salisbury or as you shall see any where, and the building so Even and uniforme as well as Lofty that it appears very magnificent—its a Major town. We were in the Chief Inn the Sunn, tho’ there are many good Inns, but this was a very good Genteel jnn and it happen’d the Landlord was then Major of y^e town.

Provisions are very Easy here, we had 2 or 3 pound of Codffish for a small matter and it was a Large dish. Y^e town is full of Great Gardens walled in all round on y^e outside of the town, on the Edge of y^e hill so the Gardens runns down a great way, you descend with them by severall 76stepps. Its a fruitfull place, fine flowers and trees with all sorts of fruite, but that w^ch is mostly jntended is the Encreasing of Liquorish w^ch y^e Gardens are all filled with, and any body that has a Little ground improves it for the produce of Liquorish of w^ch there is vast quantetyes, and it returns severall 100 pounds yearly to the towns. The Leafe is not much unlike a Rose Leafe but some w^t narrower and Longer, the Coullour is something a Yellower Green, Else the branches grow Like it w^th double Leaves on a Stalke and severall all down y^e Stalke, somewhat in the manner of Caliceily or Solomons Seale and much of that smoothness of Leafe. Thence to Hemsworth 4 mile where we Could meet w^th no Lodging, only Little ale houses to give one a pot of beere, and so we went 2 mile ffarther but found it y^e same and it being too farre to reach Rotheram we made use of ye hospitallity of a Clergyman one M^r Fferrer w^ch was a very Genteele man and gave us a Civil Entertainm^t and good beds—he has a very good house and Genteely ffitted good Hall and parlour, and the Garden very neate. Its a very ffruitfull Country w^ch Encourages jndustry and there is plenty of Stone Like free Stone w^ch makes ffine houses and walls. Thence to Rotheram 12 miles, its most in a deep Clay ground and now the wayes are more difficult and narrow. Rotheram is a good market town well built all of stone. The Church stands high in y^e middle of the town and Looks finely, its all Stone and Carv’d very well all the out side. Thence to Ackington 8 mile, a very Little place its 3 mile from Shellton town, but that was thought out of our way, so we Lay here in a poor Sorry Inn. There was one good bed for us Gentlewomen. Its a pretty Long Parish and through it runns a Water which Came down a great banck at the End of y^e town like a precipice with such violence y^t it makes a great noise, and looks Extreamely Cleare in the Streame that gushes out and runns along: it runns on off a deep yellow Coullour, they say it runns off of a poisonous mine or Soile and from Coale pitts; they permit none to taste it for I sent for a Cup of it and y^e people in y^e Streete Call’d out to forbid y^e tasteing it, and it will beare no Soape so its useless. Here we Entred Darbyshire and 77went to Chesterffield 6 mile, and Came by y^e Coale mines where they were digging. They make their mines at y^e Entrance Like a Well and so till they Come to y^e Coale, then they digg all the Ground about where there is Coale and set pillars to support it, and so bring it to y^e well where by a basket Like a hand barrow by Cords they pull it up—so they Let down and up the miners with a Cord. Chesterffield Looks Low when you approach it from the Adjacent hill w^ch you descend, but then you ascend another to it. The Coale pitts and quaraes of stone are all about, Even just at y^e town End, and in the town its all built of stone. Y^e Church stands in a place of Eminency, the town Looks well, the Streets good, y^e Market very Large. It was Satturday w^ch is their market day and there was a great Market Like some little ffaire, a great deale of Corne and all sorts of ware and ffowles there. I bought my self 2 very good ffatt white (pullings as they Call them) pullets for 6 pence both, and I am sure they were as Large and as good as would have Cost 18 pence if not 2 shill^s a piece in London—so said all my Company. In this town is y^e best ale in the Kingdom Generally Esteem’d. All Derbyshire is full of Steep hills and nothing but the peakes of hills as thick one by another is seen in most of y^e County w^ch are very steepe, w^ch makes travelling tedious and y^e miles Long. You see neither hedge nor tree but only Low drye stone walls round some ground Else its only hills and Dales as thick as you Can Imagine, but tho’ the Surface of y^e Earth Looks barren yet those hills are impregnated w^th Rich marble stone metals, Iron and Copper and Coale mines in their bowells, from whence we may see the wisdom and benignitye of o^er greate Creator to make up the Defficiency of a place by an Equivolent, and also the diversity of the Creation w^ch Encreaseth its Beauty. We go from Chesterffield to y^e Duke of Devonshires house and ascend a high hill at Least two or three miles Long, we pass’d by a Cavity in one great Banck or Rock Called Stonidge Hall all stone of about 12 yards long and about 4 or 5 broad, its all Rock like an arch on y^e Roofe but its not ffenc’d so but y^e beasts trample and ffowle it you Can scarce go into it. The same 78long steep hill we had to descend w^ch Comes to Chattsworth ten mile. The Duke’s house Lyes just at y^e foote of this steepe hill w^ch is like a precipice just at y^e Last, notwithstanding the Dukes house stands on a little riseing ground from y^e River Derwent w^ch runns all along y^e front of y^e house, and by a Little fall made in y^e water w^ch makes a pretty Murmurring noise. Before y^e gate there is a Large parke and Severall ffine Gardens one w^th out another w^th Gravell walkes and Squairs of Grass w^th stone statues in them, and in y^e middle of Each Garden is a Large ffountaine full of Images, sea gods and Dolphins and sea horses w^ch are full of pipes w^ch spout out water in the bason and spouts all about the Gardens. 3 gardens just round the house. Out of two of y^e Gardens you ascend by Severall Stepps into other Gardens w^ch some have Gravell walks and squares Like y^e other w^th Statues and Images in the bason. There is one bason in the Middle of one Garden thats very Large and by sluces besides the Images Severall pipes plays out y^e water—about 30 Large and small pipes altogether, some fflush it up that it ffrothes Like snow. There is one Garden full of stone and brass statues. So the Gardens Lyes one above another w^ch makes the prospect very fine. Above these gardens is an ascent of 5 or 6 stepps up to green walk and groves of firrs and a wilderness and Close arbours and shady walks. On Each End of one Walke stands two piramidies full of pipes spouting water that runns down one of them—runns on brass hollow work w^ch looks like rocks and hollow stones.

Y^e other is all fflatts, stands one above another like Salvers so the water rebounds one from another 5 or 6 one above the Other. There is another green walke and about y^e Middle of it by y^e Grove stands a fine Willow tree, the Leaves, Barke and all looks very naturall, y^e roote is full of rubbish or great stones to appearance and all on a Sudden by turning a sluce it raines from Each Leafe and from the branches like a shower, it being made of Brass and pipes to Each Leafe, but in appearance is Exactly like any Willow. Beyond this is a bason in w^ch are y^e branches of two Artichock Leaves w^ch weeps at y^e End of Each Leafe into 79the bason w^ch is placed at y^e foote of Lead steps 30 in number. The Lowest step is very deep, and between Every 4 stepps is a half pace all made of Lead and are broad on Each side. On a little banck stands blew balls 10 on a side, and between Each ball are 4 pipes w^ch by a sluce spouts out water aCross y^e stepps to Each other like an arbour or arch. While you are thus amused suddenly there runs down a torrent of water out of 2 pitchers in y^e hands of two Large nimphs Cut in stone that Lyes in the upper step w^ch makes a pleaseing prospect. This is designed to be Enlarged and Steps made up to y^e top of y^e hill w^ch is a vast ascent, but ffrom y^e top of it now they are Supply’d w^th water for all their pipes so it will be the Easyer to have such a fall of water Even from y^e top w^ch will add to the Curiositye. The house is built all of Stone y^t is dugg out of the hills, its like free stone—a flatt Roofe w^th Barristers and flower potts. In the ffront is 7 large windows, the glass is diamond Cutt and all off large Looking glass, y^e panes bigg 4 in a breadth 7 in height, to the Garden ward was 12 windows of y^e same glass 4 panes broad 8 long, y^e Lowest windows are made w^th Grates before them and are for birds—an Averye—and so looking glass behind. Y^e stepps out of y^e Garden are on Either side 20 steps and Iron barrs painted blew and tipt w^th gold. Y^e steps meete on y^e top in a halfe pace railed y^e same, but y^e front entrance is not finished; there is a large Court w^ch is to be pas’d and so stepps on Each side of stone w^th half paces up to a tarrass walke. Y^e large gates of jron barrs are 3 at y^e Court and from this tarress you Enter. The ffront is w^th Severall Large stone pillars Carv’d, at y^e Entrance into another Court w^ch y^e house is built about, and here are peaso’s supported w^th stone pillars, under w^ch you pass from one place to another. Out of it is y^e Chappel w^ch is a very lofty building and supported by 4 large pillars of black marble, two at y^e alter, 2 just at y^e bottom to support y^e gallery for y^e Duke and Dutches to sitt in. Y^e pillars are 14 foote, and so bigg that I could not Compass one w^th my arms. These 4 and 2 stepps by y^e alter was made out of one stone Cut out of y^e hill just by, so is all y^e marble 80about the house and so finely polish’d like a Looking glass; the pavem^t is black and white marble vein’d, Lay’d long wayes in large stones all of y^e same. Y^e painting is very fine, on the top and on the sides y^e history of Christ and y^e New testament. There is a very fine Carving of wood and Stone, the Dove at the alter y^e Angels and Cherubims w^th flowers, Leaves Laurell &c. &c. very Curiously Carv’d. The hall is very Lofty, painted top and Sides with armory and there is 18 steps on Each side goes up as an arch, w^th Iron Barristers tipt w^th gold w^ch Meetes on y^e top Large steps of stone. Thence you Enter a dineing roome, two drawing roomes, a bed Chamber and Closet w^ch opens quite thro’ the house a visto, and at the End of the dineing roome is a Large door all of Looking glass in great pannells all diamond Cutt. This is just opposite to y^e doores that runs into y^e drawing roome and bed Chamber and Closet so it shews y^e roomes to Look all double. Ye ffloores of y^e Roomes are all finely Inlaid, there is very Curious Carving over and Round the Chimney pieces, and Round the Looking-glasses that are in y^e peers between the windows, and fine Carv’d shelves or stands on Each side of y^e glass. Every roome is differing work and all fine Carving and over y^e doores some of it is of y^e Natural Coull^r of y^e wood and varnish’d only—others painted. Ye Dutchess’s Closet is wanscoated w^th y^e hollow burnt japan, and at Each Corner are peers of Looking glass; over the Chimney is Looking glass an oval and at the 4 Corners after this figure ⌘, and hollow Carving all round y^e glass. The roomes are all painted very finely on y^e top; all y^e windows y^e Squares of glass are so large and good they Cost 10s. a pannell. There was sweete tapistry hangings with small figures and very much silk, they Look’d as ffresh as if new tho’ bought severall yeares—there were no beds up. There was as many roomes on the other side w^ch were not ffinished, they were just painting y^e Ceilings and Laying the floores w^ch are all jnlaid, these were the Duke and dutchess’s apartm^ts besides which are a great number of roomes and severall offices. There is a fine Grottoe all stone pavement Roofe and sides, this is design’d to supply all y^e house w^th water 81besides severall ffanceyes to make diversion. Within this is a batheing roome, y^e walls all w^th blew and white marble—the pavement mix’d, one stone white, another black, another of y^e Red vaned marble. The bath is one Entire marble all white finely veined w^th blew and is made smooth, but had it been as finely pollish’d as some it would have been the finest marble that Could be seen. It was as deep as ones middle on the outside, and you went down steps into y^e bath big enough for two people. At y^e upper End are two Cocks to let in one hott, y^e other Cold water to attemper it as persons please—the Windows are all private Glass. The Gallery we ascended out of y^e hall into before we Came to y^e dineing roome, w^ch I should have spoken off then, was delicately painted over head, and Round on the top was a raile and Barristers so naturally drawn just round the Cornish, that you would take it for a Railed walke round y^e top to looke down into the gallery, There is another ffine staircase all stone and hangs on it self on y^e outside, y^e support is from y^e wall and its own building. Ye stone of y^e half paces are large and one Entire stone makes Each. On the top of y^e Staires y^e space Leading to y^e roomes are 3 large Stones, the Stones Cost 20^£ a piece, so large and thick you would wonder how they should be raised up so high and be supported by its own arch without any pillars on y^e outside. This is all of Stone Cut out of y^e hills w^ch Looks like what we Call free stone. Y^e house is all off the same and all the marble in y^e Windows, Chimneys and pavements is all marble dug out of the hill above the house, both black, white rance, and Curiously veined and polished, so fine as any I ever saw w^ch Came from beyond sea. Thence we came to Bankwell a pretty neate market town 2 mile; it Stands on a hill, yet you descend a vast hill to it w^ch you would thinke impossible to go down, and we was forced to fetch a Great Compass, and by reason of y^e steepness and hazard of y^e wayes if you take a wrong Way there is no passing. You are forced to have guides as in all parts of Darbyshire, and unless it be a few y^t use to be guides y^e Common people know not above 2 or 3 mile from their home, but they of y^e Country will Climbe up and down 82w^th their horses those steep precipices. There are many fine springs of water purling out of y^e Rock on these hills. At Bankwell there was an Excellent Minister in y^e Publick who pray’d and preach’d very seriously and his Life and Conversation is suitable, not very frequent in our dayes to be found.

We went 3 mile off in the afternoone to heare another y^t was in a meeteing and so 3 mile home againe. Y^e hills about y^e town and all about y^e town is rocks of y^e finest marble of all sorts—huge Rock. I took some of it and shewing it to severall they think it Comparable to any beyond sea. Thence to Haddon Hall for so all y^e great houses are called, as Chatsworth Hall, so this Haddon Hall the Earle of Rutlands house 2 mile from Bankwell; its a good old house all built of stone on a hill and behind it is a ffine grove of high trees and good Gardens, but nothing very Curious as y^e mode now is. There is a large Parke upon a great ascent from y^e house which is built round a Court, y^e parke is one part of some of y^e highest hills w^ch gives a great prospect over y^e Country. But Indeed all Darbyshire is but a world of peaked hills, which from some of y^e highest you discover y^e Rest Like steeples or tops of hills as thick as Can be, and tho’ they appear so Close yet y^e steepness down and up takes up y^e tyme, y^t you go it as if so many Miles, and were y^e ground measur’d would be in Length as much as miles on a plaine. Thence to Buxton 9 mile over those Craggy hills Whose Bowells are full of mines of all kinds off Black and white and veined Marbles, and some have mines of Copper, others tinn and Leaden mines, in w^ch is a great deale of silver. I have some w^ch Looks full of silver, its so bright just brought up out of one of y^e mines. They digg down their mines Like a well for one man to be let down w^th a Rope and pulley, and so when they find oar they keep digging under ground to follow the oar w^ch lies amongst the stone y^t Lookes like our fine stones. In y^t mine I saw there was 3 or 4 at work and all let down thro’ y^e well; they digg sometymes a great way before they Come to oar. There is also a sort of stuff they dig out mixt w^th y^e oar and all about the hills they 83Call Sparr, it looks like Crystal or white sugar Candy, its pretty hard; y^e doctors use it in medicine for the Collick; its smooth like glass but it looks all in Crack’s all over. They Wall round the Wells to y^e mines to Secure their Mold’ring in upon them, they Generally Look very pale and yellow that work Underground, they are fforc’d to keep Lights w^th them and sometymes are forced to use Gunpowder to break y^e stones, and y^t is sometymes Hazardous to the people and destroys them at y^e work. Its very difficult to find the Wayes here for you see only tops of hills and so many roads—by reason of y^e best wayes up and down—that its impossible for Coach or Waggon to pass some of y^m, and you scarce see a tree and No hedges all over y^e Country, only dry stone walls y^t incloses ground no other ffence. Buxton we Saw 2 or 3 tymes and then Lost y^e sight of it as often, and at last did not See it till just you Came upon it—that 9 mile we were above 6 hours going it. The house thats Call’d Buxton Hall w^ch belongs to y^e Duke of Devonshire its where the warme bath is and well, its the Largest house in the place tho’ not very good; they are all Entertaining houses and its by way of an ordinary—so much a piece for y^r dinners and suppers and so much for our Servants besides; all y^e ale and wine is to be paid—besides, the beer they allow at the meales is so bad y^t very Little Can be dranke. You pay not for y^r bed roome and truely the other is so unreasonable a price and y^e Lodgings so bad, 2 beds in a Roome some 3 beds and 4 in one roome, so that if you have not Company Enough of your own to fill a Room they will be ready to put others into the same Chamber, and sometymes they are so Crowded that three must Lye in a bed. Few people stay above two or three nights its so Inconvenient. We staid two nights by reason one of our Company was ill, but it was sore against our Wills for there is no peace nor quiet with one Company and another going into the bath or Coming out; that makes so many strive to be in this house because the bath is in it. Its about 40 foot Long and about 20 or 30 ffoote broad being almost square. There is 10 or 12 springs that bubble up that are a Little warme, its not so warme as 84milke from y^e Cow, and not a quick spring, so y^t its not Capable of being Cleansed after Everybody has been in. Its warme Enough just to Open the pores of ones body, but not to Cause sweat, I was in it and it made me shake, its farre from the heate that is in the Somersetshire baths. Its Cover’d over the top, but not Ceiled and there is an open place in the middle like a Tunnell w^ch pours the Cold down on y^e head, it would in my thoughts be better if it were Exposed all to y^e aire and sunn. There is a pavem^t of Stone on one side at y^e brim to walke on, with benches of Stone to Sitt on. You must have a guide y^t Swims with you, you may Stand in some place and hold by a Chaine and y^e water is not above y^r Neck, but in other parts very deep and strong it will turn you down. About 10 or 12 yards distant is a spring Called S^t Anns Well w^ch is for drinking, they have arch’d it up y^t its much hotter, it heates y^e Cup you take it up in but not or near so hot as y^e Somersetshire baths and springs are, the taste is not unpleasant but Rather like Milk, they say its Diaretick—I dranke a part of a Cup full.

Another wonder is that of Pooles hole, thats just at y^e towns End, a Large Cavity under ground of a Great Length. Just at the Entrance you must Creep, but presently you stand upright, its Roofe being very Lofty all arched in the Rocks and sound with a great Ecchoe. Y^e Rocks are Continually droping water all about, you pass over Loose stones and Craggy Rocks. The dripping of the water wears impression on y^e Stones that forms them into Severall Shapes, there is one Looks Like a Lyon w^th a Crown on his head, y^e water trickling on it weares it into so many shapes; another place Lookes just Like y^e shape of a Large organ w^th ye severall Keys and pipes one above another as you see in a great Cathedrall; there is also a Stone w^ch Looks white and in shape Like a salted flitch of Bacon w^ch hangs down from the Roofe of y^e Arch w^ch is very Lofty in this place. There is another Rock Looks like a Chaire of State w^th y^e Canopy and all glistring like diamonds or starrs; thus does all y^e sides of the Rock all shine Like Diamonds. Y^e Rocks are very Large and Craggy and Indented, some 85Looks like y^e outsides of Cockle shells, others are smooth all Caused I believe from y^e dripping of y^e Water. I was as farre as y^e Queen of Scotts pillar, w^ch is a Large white stone, and y^e top hangs over your head Like a Cannopy all great white Stones and in spires or Large jceickles and glistring as the other. They may go farther but I had no such Curiosity, I had y^e Light Carry’d that shewed me to S^t Anns Needle after w^ch is only sand. This white stone is very Like Chrystall of w^ch there is a stone Like a Bason or Large ffont wherein drops Continually y^e water w^ch runns over and trickling down does as it were Candy in jceickles and points, under w^ch is a pillar of this white stone. We had some broken off which Looks like y^e jnsides of oyster-shells or mother of pearle, some Looks like alabaster. As I went I Clamber’d over the top of all y^e stones and as I Came back I pass’d under severall of y^e arches Like bridges; they are both wayes full of Loose stones and the water dropping makes them slippery, it being also very uneven by reason of y^e Craggs. How it should Come none Can give any good accō; its Call’d Pooles hole from a man of that name that was a Robber and use to secure himself in y^t place like a house, and so y^e Country people imagined he made it, but some think it was dug to find mines or marble or Chrystal because y^e mettle mines are full of stone as I s^d before; only this Enters in y^e side whereas the mines they make now are as a well perpendicular for severall yards before it spreads, and y^t not till they Come to find metal, but y^e difficulty appears as to this hole how so large a Cavity should be Left, as in some places y^e Roofe is as lofty as you can see and all stone; now how it should be fixt so as not to tumble in by y^e weight of y^e Earth or stone on y^e top: as to y^e waters dropping y^t is but what is Customary among rocks and stones, there are many springs w^ch run in y^e veines of y^e Earth and allwayes are running in such subteraneus vaults in the Earth, w^ch gather together and runns in a little Channell in y^e bottom of this Cave as you may step one. The 4th wonder is that off Elden hole about 2 mile from Buxton; its on y^e side of a hill about 30 yards if not better in length at y^e brimm, and half so broad, 86and just in sight is full of Craggy stones like a Rock for about 2 or 3 yards down, w^ch Contracts the Mouth of y^e hole to about 4 yards long and 2 broad or thereabouts; w^ch hole is Suppos’d to run down directly a vast length and has been try’d w^th a Line and plummet severall fathom and the bottom not Sounded, tho’ some are of opinion its because the hole runns aslant so the plummet and Line Could not pass, and what we observ’d gives some strength to this notion, for Cast a stone down you hear it Strike a long tyme at the sides of y^e hole, and if you go down below 100 y^ds or more and Lay y^r head to the ground you shall hear the stone ring Much longer than those that stand at the holes mouth, w^ch must discover y^e ground to be hollow at Least much farther in Compass than the mouth of y^e hole, but its Certain it must be of a great depth by reason of the tyme you Can hear a stone strike and ring in its descending, and y^t which Lessens the sound may be by its breaking against the sides. Its a very hazardous place, for if a man or beast be too near the Edge of y^e bank and trip they fall in w^th out retrieve. Y^e beasts graze in the Grounds and hills but it must be some great force that drives them near the hole; there is a sort of instinct in Nature, self preservation and a great sence of danger in beasts; its reported that severall Attempts have been made to ffence the whole round w^th a stone Wall as the manner of the fences are all over y^t Country, but yet it has been all in vaine. What they built up in the day would be pull’d down in y^e night and so its vaine to trye y^e securing it round from any falling in—this the people tell us. The Country here about is so full of moore or quagmires and such precipices that one that is a stranger Cannot travell w^th out a guide, and some of them are put to a Loss sometymes.

The fifth wonder is Mamtour w^ch is a high hill that Looks Exactly round, but on the side next Castleton w^ch is a Little town in the High Peake on that side its all broken that it Looks just in resemblance as a great Hay-Ricke y^ts Cut down one halfe on one side—that describes it most naturall. This is all sand, and on that broken side the sand keeps trickling down allwayes Especially when there is the 87Least wind of w^ch I believe this Country scarce Ever is w^thout; many places of the hill Looks hollow and Loose w^ch makes it very dangerous to ascend and none does attempt it, y^e sand being Loose slips y^e foote back againe.

The 6^th wonder is at Casleton 4 mile from Elderhole; its a town Lyes at y^e foote of an Exceeding steep hill w^ch Could not be descended by foote or horse, but in a Compass and y^t by y^e Roads returning to and agen on y^e side of y^e hill at Least 4 tymes before we Could gaine y^e bottom or top of s^d Hill. This is w^ch they Call the Devills Arse a peake, the hill on one End jutting out in two parts and joyns in one at y^e top, this part or Cleft between you Enter a great Cave w^ch is very Large, and severall poor Little houses in it built of Stone and thatch’d Like Little Styes, one seemed a Little bigger in which a Gentleman Liv’d and his wife y^t was worth above 100^£ a year w^ch he left to his brother, Chooseing rather Like a hermite to Live in this sorry Cell. One M^r Midleton who was w^th us s^d he had dined w^th them there on Carrots and Herbs, and y^t he was dead and his wife a year or two since. Now none but very poor people Live there w^ch makes some small advantage by begging and by Lighting the strangers into the Cave w^ch beyond this you Enter so straight a passage. At the mouth you stoop very Low Even upon y^r Breast and Creep in, when you are about a yard or two’s Length you stand upright, it being Lofty in manner of Poole’s Hole only the Rock hangs down in so many places that there is often Cause of Stooping very Low to pass by y^m, and here y^e ground you tread on is all sand and firme, only y^e Rocks do drip water in many places w^ch makes it damp and strikes Cold to you, but Excepting the pillars of Rock in some places that hang down y^e most of it is very Lofty and a great Ecchoe like a Church. You pass a good way by y^e Light of many Candles haveing Lost y^e sight of day from y^e first stooping Entrance. At Last you Come to a river they Call it, a great water it is and very deep, they say its about 12 yards over and some do go on it w^th a Little boate to y^e other side but I would not venture. There was one Gentlewoman in our Company s^d she had once been Carry’d 88over on 2 mens shoulders, but they waded above their waste in water, so I would not be for so dangerous I was sure it was a difficult Enterprise, and when you are over y^t side they go over but such places as was pass’d before w^ch Leads to another such a water w^ch some men have pass’d over and so have gone on to a third water, but there y^e Rocks hung so Low as almost to touch y^e water w^ch hindred their proceeding. That water I saw was strange, so deep and large and look’d like a standing water but whether it were or not Could not tell, no Doubt but it has a passage thro’ the veines of y^e Earth or Else would swell so as to Cause a bursting out of y^e Earth—it seemed to have a motion w^th it, All these things shewes the great wisdom and power of our blessed Creator to make and maintaine all things within its own Bounds and Limits w^ch have a tendency to worke out ruine to y^e whole frame of y^e world if not bridled by Gods Command.

The seventh wonder is a flowing and Ebbing Well between this town and Buxton w^ch Ceases its miraculous motion but on Great raines which Raises the springs, and then, the man w^ch was w^th us told me he had seen it severall tymes in y^e winter when y^e springs were high to Ebb and flow severall tymes in a hour, w^ch appear’d by y^e Rise and fall of y^e water from y^e Edge of ye well, and the man seem’d to be a good sober man, M^r Middleton it was, so that its Likely when the springs are high the water from the sea may have a quicker flux and Reflux thro’ the Channells of y^e Earth, but this is a good distance from y^e sea or Ebbing and flowing Rivers.

From Castleton to Buxton is 6 mile, but they are very long. You might go 10 of miles near London as soon as you are going halfe so many here.

Thence we went to Ashburn 16 miles where I saw some of their Copper mines where they dig them like a well, but secure y^e side w^th wood and turffe bound w^th ye wood like Laths or frames aCross and long wayes to secure it. This is a pretty neate market town; thence to Uxeter 8 mile, and we Cross a River on a long Bridge and so we enter Staffordshire w^ch has quite a different soyle, sand and 89gravell and some Clay, and very pretty sort of pebbles in the ground—some of a bright green like an Emerald, others vein’d, some Clear like Christall. This Country is well wooded and full of Enclosures, good Rich Ground, is Extreamely differing from Darbyshire. Just before we Came to Uxeter we pass by a very Exact house and Gardens of one M^r Cotten a justice of peace, its Brick and Coyn’d w^th stone, the Gardens or Courts very Compleate, but it stands in a Low moorish ground to show this worlds good is not perfect but has its foule as well as faire Side and with all its Conveniency’s Must Labour under some difficultyes. We pass thro’ a deep and Long water just by, but y^e bottom was hard gravell, this supply’s severall mills w^ch are used for their prepareing y^e metal they take out of y^e mines. I had a piece of Copper given me by One of y^e managers of y^m.

Thence we Came to Woolsley 7 mile, to a Relations house S^r Charles Woolsley whose Lady was my Aunt, where we dined. Y^e house stands in a fine parke; y^e house is an old building and but Low, its built round a Court: there is a Large Lofty hall in y^e Old fashion, a dineing and drawing roome on y^e one hand, and a little parlour on the other, the best roomes were newer built w^th Chambers over them, and a very good staircase well wanscoated and Carv’d w^th good pictures. Y^e Rest of the house is all old and Low and must be new built. Y^e Gardens are good, both gravell and Green walks; there is a good River runns by it w^ch has dwarfe trees and honysuckles and binds on the Bancks, there is a great deale of good fruite and there are severall walks, one shady w^th high trees w^ch my Aunt told me my mother liked to walke in and so was Call’d her walke. I eate a sort of flatt strawbery like a button, w^ch grew in a second Crop from y^e same strawberys Roote w^ch produces its first Crop a sort of Large garden Strawberries and this sort afterwards. In this Country they burn all this tyme of y^e year July, their ffern and make y^e ashes up in balls and so keep to make Lye for driveing their Ruck of Cloth’s w^ch whitens them much. Not farre from hence they have y^e mines of the fine sort of Coale that is hard and 90will be pollished like black marble, for salts or boxes or such Like, y^e only difference it will not bear ye fire as marble does, Else it resembles it very much; there were of these mines just by but now they have Come to y^e End of this veine and so there is none within 6 or 7 mile.

This is y^e pitt Coale, y^ts Cloven and burns Like a Candle, and makes white ashes Like y^e Scotch-Coale. Y^e same sort is in Nottinghamshire. From hence we went to Litchfield 7 mile, a sandy Road full of fine pebbles; Litchfield stands Low, there is a greate standing water as I have seen just by y^e town, w^ch does often flow y^e grounds after Raines, so the Road is secured w^th a banck and a breast wall of a good Length into y^e town—as a Long Causy or bridge y^e Road is, and there are some few Arches here and there to Carry off y^e water. Y^e water has very good ffish in it but it must be muddy; its the privilege of y^e Magistrates only to have fishing or to go about it w^th a little boate. The town has good houses, y^e Close has y^e Bishops and Deanes and prebends houses w^ch are good; the streetes are very neate and handsome, y^e Breadth and length very well and the building handsome. The minster is a stately structure but old, y^e outside has been finely Carv’d and full of Images as appears by the nitches and pedistalls w^ch remaine very Close all over the walls, and still just at ye front remaines some Statues of y^e Kings of Jerusalem and some angels and Cherubims. At y^e door is a Large statue of King Charles y^e Second, and all about y^e door is fine Carving of flowers Leaves, birds and beasts and some saints and apostles statues. The Inside of y^e Church is very neate being new but there is but Little painting; there are two Quires, one old one w^th organs and seates, y^e other new w^ch is very Large w^th Organs and fine Carving in y^e wood; here are 2 organs. There is a painting over the Communion table of peach Collour satten Like a Cannopy w^th gold fringe, and its drawn so well that it lookes like a Reall Cannopy. There is some remaines of a Castle, y^e walls and some of the towers remaine. The wall that Encompasses y^e town is what Encompasses the Church and goes from thence.

We went thence to Colehill 12 mile, and pass’d by 91severall good houses. Here I saw y^e way of makeing Runnet as they do in Cheshire—they take y^e Reed bag and Curd and haveing washed it Clean, salt it and breake y^e Curd small about y^e bag, so drye them, being stretch’d out with sticks like a glove, and so hang them in a Chimney till you need it, then Cut a piece off this as big as halfe a Crown and boyle it in a little water w^ch water will turn y^e milke better than any made runnet and its freshe. This is a pretty little market town and stands on a hill.

Thence to Coventry all on a Levell 8 mile. I Came by severall pretty seates, one on the Left hand of S^r Andrew Hacket stands in a parke and good gardens walled in, and on the Right hand we Came Close to a very pretty new built house w^th severall Rows of firrs, the outward Court Came in a Compass w^th open Barrgates just to the Road, and a brick bridge from the Court at one side quite Cross y^e highway: we drove under it w^ch Leads to a parke that runs along on the other hand. The house was brick and Coyn’d with stone and the windows the same, 8 windows in the front and y^e Lawrells and greens look’d very pretty. Coventry stands on the side of a pretty high hill and as you approach it from the adjacent hill you have the full prospect. The spire and steeple of one of the Churches is very high and is thought the third highest in England. In the same Church yard stands another large Church w^ch is something unusuall two such great Churches together; their towers and the Rest of y^e Churches and high buildings make the town appear very fine, the streetes are broad and very well pitch’d w^th small stone. The Cross is noted and y^e finest building in England for such a thing, and in my phancy it very much resembles y^e picture of y^e tower of Babel, its all stone Carv’d very Curiously, and there are 4 divisions Each being less than another to y^e top, and so its Piramidy forme. In Each partition is severall nitches for statues quite round it where are kings and queens, and just on Each side before Each statute is their arms and y^e arms of England and the arms of y^e town, and so its adorn’d w^th Coullours and gilding in their proper places as in the garments and Crowns or Coronets, and finely Carv’d 92w^th angels and Cherubims and all sorts of beasts, Birds, flowers in garlands, and Leaves—this in Every division; there is variety quite up to the top w^ch is finely Carv’d and Gilt. This is y^e biggest place in y^e town, and y^e streete very broad and runs off a great length, and most of y^e streetes are very good. Y^e buildings are mostly of timber work and old. There is a water house at the End of y^e town w^ch from springs does supply by pipes y^e whole town w^th water in y^e manner that London is. There is also a water w^ch serves severall mills y^t belong to the town; it seems to be a thriveing good trading town and is very Rich. They have a great publick stock belonging to y^e Corporation above 3 thousand pound a year for publick schooles, Charity and y^e maintenance of their severall publick Expences, of their Magistrates and Companyes, the majority of the heads are now in y^e sober men, so its Esteem’d a ffanatick town, and there is Indeed the largest Chapple and y^e greatest number of people I have ever seen of y^e Presbiterian way. There is another meeteing place in y^e town of y^e Independants w^ch is nott so bigg, but tho’ they may differ in some small things, in y^e maine they agree and seeme to Love one another w^ch was no small sattisfaction to me, Charity and Love to y^e brethren being y^e Characteristicall marke of Christs true Disciples.

Coventry has one thing remains Remarkable not to be omitted, the statue of a man Looking out of a window w^th his Eyes out, and is a monument as history tells us of some priviledges obtein’d by a Lady wife, to the nobleman who was lord of y^e town, and she was to purchase them by passing on horse back through y^e town naked w^ch he thought she would not do, but out of zeale to relieve y^e town from some hard bondage she did, and Commanded all windows and doores to be shutt and none to appear in the streete on pain of death w^ch was obey’d by all; but one man would open a window and Looke out and for his impudence had this judgment on him to be struck blind; this statute is his resemblance and one day in a year they Remember y^e good Lady by some rejoyceing. There are severall good walks about y^e town, and a large parke above 93y^e town w^ch most people walk in: thence we went to Warwick. Coventry is joyn’d to Litchfield under one Bishop and y^t w^ch I wonder at that the Bishop and most of y^e dignatorys and abundance of Gentry Rather Chooses to Live at and near all about Litchfield tho’ it stands so low and waterish, than at Coventry w^ch is a pleasanter scituation and better buildings. There is S^r Tho: Nortons house at y^e end of y^e town and a large parke. From Coventry to Warwick going about to see an acquaintance of our Company we made it 10 mile, and went in sight of y^e Lord Liegh on y^e Left hand, w^ch Lay all along by y^e River Aven; it stands Low very well wooded.

We ascended a very steep hill to take a view of y^e Country and so Could see Coventry, and were just by Hillingworth Castle on y^e Right hand—much of y^e Ruines of y^e walls remaine still—and so Enter Warwickshire. The town of Warwick by means of a sad fire about 4 or 5 years since y^t Laid y^e greatest part in ashes, its most now new built, w^ch is w^th brick and Coyn’d w^th stone and y^e windows y^e same. There still remaines some few houses of y^e old town w^ch are all built of stone. Ye streetes are very handsome and y^e buildings Regular and fine, not very Lofty being Limited by act of partliam^t to such a pitch and size to build y^e town. Y^e ruines of y^e Church still remaines, y^e repairing of which is y^e next worke design’d; Y^e Chancell stands still in w^ch was all the fine monuments y^t were preserv’d from the fire; there is one monument of y^e great Earle of Leisters and his Ladyes in stone Curiously wrought, w^th their Garments, and painted and Gilded. There is another in marble of y^e Earle of Warwick, y^e statue Cut very finely, y^e face hands and forme very Lively, and under his head is a Role of Straw matting as you would suppose being Exceeding naturall Cut in Stone. In y^e middle stands y^e monument of y^e Earle y^t was regent in Ffrance and dyed there and was brought and buried here, his statue at Length in armour, but y^e Lines of his face and hands w^th y^e veines and sinews were so finely Cast and y^e very aire of his Countenance much to y^e Life or Like a Liveing man all Cast brass and Burnish’d very delicately y^t 94it Looks like Gold, all his armour very Exact and his arms are Cut finely at his head, and supporters at his feete, w^th ffigures and Images to adorne it; round the tombstone on y^e one side and Each End is 4 : and 2 y—at the End statues of y^e great men y^t were of his family, sons and Grand-Children, and on the other side are 4 Ladies of the family all Cast in the same Burnish’d Brass; they are in little and all in Religious habits w^ch formerly in ye tymes of popery and superstition most persons Coveted to dye in; their garments are folded in differing shapes and w^th many wrinklings and gathers w^ch is very exact and y^e more to be noted being all in such a stiff mettle as Brass and yet it Lookes Easye and natural. On y^e other side y^e Church in a little Chapple is a Large monument of Black and White Marble in manner of a bed w^th pillars, and its grated round—the pillars black marble—of some Nobleman w^th a Large Inscription round it, and one thing is noted of him there that he thought it his greatest Character to be Esteem’d a great ffriend and Companion of S^r Philip Sidney’s w^ch is but of poor availe to him now dead if he was not y^e friend of y^e great Jehovah—but such is y^e folly and vanity of y^e most of y^e world to be in Esteeme w^th y^e wise and great men of this world. There is delicate Carving about y^e walls and round y^e windows in stone all manner of Birds beasts, Laurells flowers &c &c, and Cherubims, and Gilded and painted in severall parts. Warwick Castle is a stately building, its now the Lord Brooke’s house. You Enter thro’ two Large Courts into a noble Hall wanscoated, w^th in it is a Large parlour all wanscoated w^th Cedar, w^ch is full of fine pictures of the family and beyond that is a drawing roome and bed Chamber w^th good tapistry hangings; they are old but so good worke and so beautifull the Coullours still, you would admire it, and the worke so Curious all of silk that y^e very postures and faces Look Extreame lively and naturall, and the groves streames and Rivers Look’s very well on it. There was good velvet Chaires in y^e roomes and good Pictures. Within y^e bed Chamber is Closets, out of one you Looke to y^e river even at y^e End window, there is so greate a Levell you may see near 20 mile. Stowe in y^e Old you 95see w^ch is as farre, its all full of Enclosures and woods most of the Country. All these roomes are very Lofty and large and larger than most houses I have seen, the Gardens fine and many without Each other, w^th good gravell and grass walks, squares of dwarfe trees of all sorts and steps to descend from one walke to another, y^e whole of w^ch I saw at one view on y^e top of y^e mount, together with y^e whole town and a vast prospect all about, y^e mount being very high and y^e ascent is round to an agen securred by Cut hedges on y^e side y^e path. At y^e Entrance of y^e first Court y^e porter diverts you w^th a history of Guy Earle of Warwick, there is his walking staff 9 foote long and y^e staff of a Gyant w^ch he kill’d thats 12 ffoote long; his sword, Helmet and shield and breast and back all of a prodigious size, as is his wives jron slippers and also his horses armour and the pottage-pott for his supper—it was a yard over the top; there is also the bones of severall Beasts he kill’d, the Rib of y^e Dun-Cow as bigg as halfe a great Cart Wheele: 2 miles from the town is his Cave dugg out by his own hands just y^e dimention of his body as the Common people say, there is also his will Cut out on stone, but y^e letters are much defaced; these are the storyes and meer ffiction, for the true history of Guy was that he was but a Little man in stature tho’ great in mind and valour, which tradition describes to posterity by being a Gyant. Such will the account be of our Hero King William the third tho’ Little in stature yet Great in atchievements and valour. Ffrom Warwick we went towards Daventry all along part of the vale of y^e Red horse w^ch was very heavy way, and Could not reach thither being 14 mile. About 11 mile we Came to a place Called Nether Sugar—a sad village, we Could have no Entertainment. Just by it on the top of a steep hill is Shuggbery Hall a seate of S^r Charles Shuggberys who seeing our distress being just night and y^e horses weary w^th y^e heavy way he very Curteously tooke Compassion on us and treated us very handsomely that night, a good supper serv’d in plaite and very good wine and good beds. My Lady Shuggbery was the lord Leigh’s Daughter and that day dineing there her Coach drove by us when in distress Enquireing 96for Lodging w^ch Caused S^r Charles to Come out to meete us, shewed a generous hospitable spirit to strangers, and with a great deale of good humour My Lady Entertained us. The house stands within a good parke, the deer so tame as to Come up near y^e gate w^ch ascends steps to a Court of Broad stone. The house looks very handsome built of Brick and Stone, good hall and large parlour and drawing roome well wanscoated, neately ffurnish’d and a little parlour on the other side with good pictures; the Butlery Kitchen and offices very Convenient, two good staircases and 3 or 4 good Chambers very well ffurnish’d tho’ not very Rich; but in the Generall all things were very well as any private Gentleman has whatever. he has severall good houses. He ordered one of his Daughters to get me a Curiosity they dig up in most part of the hill there about, they Call them Arms, its just Like Mullets that they have in an Eschuteon to difference the third son from the first and second in a family. Thence we went to Daventry 3 miles, a pretty large Market town and good houses all of stone and so we Enter into Northamptonshire. To Northampton town is 8 mile w^ch opens a noble prospect to y^e sight a mile distant, a large town well built, y^e streetes as large as most in London Except Holborn and the Strand, the houses well built of brick and stone, some all stone, very regular buildings.

The town hall is new built all stone and resembles Guildhall in Little tho’ it is a good Lofty spacious place. There is two Barrs in it w^th y^e benches and seat distinct, over one of the Barrs is King William and Queen Mary’s pictures at Length. The Church is new built, its very neate, there is two Rows of stone pillars at the Entrance of the Church on y^e outside, and it is to be paved w^th broad stone but y^t was not quite ffinished, they were at worke on some adornments at the ffront. There is abundance of new buildings which adds to the beauty of y^e town. We enter the town from Daventry over a large Bridge, and the water runs twineing about y^e grounds w^th rows of Willows on Each side of it w^ch looks very pretty.

Y^e way out of town towards London you go by a Cross a mile off the town Call’d High-Cross, it stands just in the 97middle of England, its all stone 12 stepps w^ch runs round it, above that is the stone Carv’d ffinely and there are 4 Large Nitches about y^e Middle, in Each is the statue of some queen at Length which Encompasses it w^th other Carvings as garnish, and so it rises less and less to y^e top like a tower or Piramidy. Thence to Stony Stratford, so Cross y^e river Aven again 12 mile, and Enter Buckinghamshire. At Stony Stratford w^ch is a little place built of stone they make a great deale of bonelace and so they do all here about, its the manuffactory of this part of y^e Country, they sit and worke all along y^e streete as thick as Can be.

Thence to great Horwood: this Country is fruitfull, full of woods, Enclosures and rich Ground. Y^e Little towns stand pretty thicke. You have many in view as you pass y^e Road. 6 mile to Horwood, thence we pass by a lofty pile of Building Called Salden, a gentlemans house, and by the Rich M^rs Bennets House, Remarkable for Coveteousness w^ch was y^e Cause of her death—her treasures tempted a Butcher to Cut her throate who hangs in Chains just against her house. She had 3 daughters, the two youngest are Living one married to a Benet, y^e other y^e Earle of Salisbury and are great fortunes by their mothers penuriousness. Thence to Oxborn and Enter Bedfordshire 13 mile. The duke of Bedfords house we saw w^ch stands in a fine parke full of deer and wood, and some off the trees are kept Cut in works and y^e shape of severall beasts. The house is an old Building, Low, there are very good stables and out offices, Landry yard &c. The gardens are fine, there is a Large bowling-green with 8 arbours kept Cut neately and seates in Each, there is a Seate up in a high tree that ascends from y^e green 50 steps that Commands the whole parke round to see the Deer hunted, as also a Large prospect of the Country. There are 3 Large Gardens, fine Gravell walks and full of fruite. I Eate a great quantety of y^e Red Coralina goosbery w^ch is a large thin skin’d sweete Goosebery. Ye walks are one above another w^th stone steps. In the square, just by the dineing roome window is all sorts of pots of flowers and Curious greens, fine orange, Cittron and Lemon trees and mirtles, striped ffilleroy and 98y^e fine aloes plant. On the side of this you pass under an arch into a Cherry garden in the midst of w^ch stands a figure of stone resembling an old weeder woman used in the garden, and my Lord would have her Effigie w^ch is done so like and her Clothes so well that at first I tooke it to be a Real Living body. On y^e other side of y^e house is another Large garden, severall gravell walks one above another, and on the flatts are fish ponds the whole length of the Walke; above y^t in the next flat is 2 fish ponds, here are dwarfe trees spread of a great bigness. Ffrom thence we Came to Dunstable 7 mile over a sad road Called Hockley in y^e Hole, as full of deep slows in y^e winter it must be Empasable. There is a very good pitch’d Causey for foote people and horse, that is raised up high from the Road, and a very steepe Chaulky hill, from whence it has its name—the Chalk hill just as you Enter Dunstable. Its a good town as you shall meete with on the Road, its full of Inns, there is a long Large streete with a great water in the streete—it Looks like a Large pond. Here I went to see two of my Relations Daughters to S^r Charles Woolsley, one marry’d there to a Doctor of physick D^r Marsh, w^th whome was a maiden sister my Cos’n Bridget Woolsley. Thence to S^t Albans and so we Enter Hartfordshire 12 mile. There is a very large streete to the Market place, its a pretty Large town takeing all the S^t Juliers and y^t at one End, and y^e other End is S^t Nicholas where is a handsome Church. The great Church w^ch is dedicated to S^t Albans is much out of repaire, I see the places in the pavement that was worn like holes for kneeling by the devotes of y^e Religion and his votery’s as they tell you, but the whole Church is so worn away that it mourns for some Charitable person to help repaire it. There are severall good houses about y^e town, one of y^e Earle off Maulberough (now Duke of Marlborough) and one of M^rs Gennings y^e Countess Mother.

Thence we Came to Barnet 8 mile, w^ch is in Middlesex and seemes to be a very sharpe aire; its a Large place and y^e houses are made Commodious to Entertain the Company y^t Comes to drink the water, w^ch Certainly if they be at the paines to go once and see would have but Little stomach to 99drink them. The well is a Large place walled in 8 square, its at Least two yards over and built 2 or 3 yards up from the water and over it is Lattices of wood round to Looke down into it and so Covered like a house above; below are staires down to a doore to go in to dip the water there. I stood at the Lowest step above the water to Look into it, its full of Leaves and Dirt and Every tyme they dip it troubles y^e water, not but what they take up and let stand—Looks Clear but I Could not taste it. Its very deep and not done at the bottom w^th a bason as Tunbridg, neither Can you see the bottom, so that it appears not to be a quick spring as Tunbridg or y^e Spaw or Hamstead waters w^ch have all fine stone basons in w^ch you see the springs bubble up as fast and by a pipe runs off as Clear and fast; it more resembles Epsom for w^ch reason I dislike that. Thence to Highgate 6 miles, thence to London 4 miles where I returned and all our Company Blessed be God very well w^th out any disaster or trouble in 7 weeks tyme about 635 miles that we went together.

My Journey to Canterberry and Dover in Kent the same year from Amwell in Hartfordshire. I went to Royston 1 mile, and Epin in Essex 9 mile, thence to Drumford through Lanes and much wood—that part of Essex is full of woods; y^t was 10 mile. Thence to Abnife 14 mile, thence to Tilbery 3 mile w^ch is a ffine ffort, a great flatt to y^e Land, full of Watry ditches and may be flooded all over. Here was the fight by y^e parliament in 1640. There are Severall Buildings by themselves of a Triangular form of Brickwork in w^ch y^e powder and amunition is kept. Here is a ferry over to Gravesend where we enter Kent, w^ch Lyes just over against it a little snugg town under a hill, the houses little and thick together fitt only for seamen and soldiers y^t are Employ’d in the water or the ffort. I saw severall Colliers pass by Laden towards London.

The Thames here is very Rough and Deep so as we fferry over in a boate like a Hoy. Thence I went to Rochester 7 mile most in lanes; we Enter the town over the Medway w^ch is the finest River I ever saw, it runs thence to the sea and meetes y^e Thames at y^e Boy in Nore and so they fall 100into y^e sea together, but it Ebbs and flows up a great way above Rochester and is very salt. The Bridg at Rochester is the finest in England—nay its said to Equal any in the world—it is not built upon w^th houses as London Bridge but its very Long and fine, Iron spikes Like a grate is on the top of the wall w^ch is breast high, and these jrons on the top w^ch are above a yard more. Its jndented at Each arch as all bridges are, there are 9 large Arches w^th y^e middle one w^ch is to be opened by drawing up to give passage to Barges and little vessells. When y^e tyde was out I saw the worke of the arches is w^th wood Cutt hollow, and stands a good distance into the water to keep the water from bearing too hard against the Bridge.

The town is large jncludeing the suburbs and all, for there is a large place before you pass the river w^ch washes quite round y^t side of y^e town to y^e Dockyards, thats a mile from it where are two large yards for building shipps.

I saw severall Large shipps building, others refitting. There was in one place a sort of arches like a bridge of Brickwork, they told me y^e use of it was to let in y^e water there, and so they put their masts in to season, besides this dock, here are severall streetes of houses on this hill w^ch is pretty high and is just against Rochester, and on y^e hill you have y^e best prospect of the town and see y^e severall good Churches in it, and the Castle w^ch is a pretty Little thing just by y^e Medway w^ch runs along by it, and so at foote of this hill is a Round and so onward to sea. There were severall shipps at anchor along y^e River. All behind the town is another hill w^ch is covered w^th fine woods y^t Looks very fine; thence to Sittingburn 11 mile all in sight of y^e Lovely Medway. This is a very good town for y^e Road and travellers as you shall meete w^th. The Church is all built w^th flints headed so Curiously that it Lookes like glass and shines with y^e suns Reflexion.

Thence to Canterbery 16 mile, we pass by great Hop yards on both sides of the Road, and this year was great quantetyes of that fruite here in Kent. We pass by Ffeversham just at y^e towns End w^ch is 9 mile from Canterbury, its a very large town and good buildings of Bricke. 101Canterbery opens to view 6 miles distant by y^e advantage of a high hill we pass over to it—its a noble Citty—y^e gates are high tho’ but narrow, the streetes are most of them Large and long, and y^e buildings handsome, very neate but not very Lofty, most are of Brickwork, its a flourishing town, good tradeing in y^e weaving of silks. I saw 20 Loomes in one house w^th severall fine flower’d silks, very good ones, and its a very Ingenious art to fix the warps and Chaine in their Loomes to Cast their work into such ffigures and flowers. There stands a boy by Every Loome and pulls up and down threads w^ch are fastened to the weaving, and so pulls the Chaine to the Exact form for y^e shuttle to work through.

There are also paper mills w^ch dispatches paper at a quick rate, they were then makeing brown paper wⁿ I saw it. The mill is set agoing by y^e water and at y^e same tyme it pounded the raggs to morter for y^e paper, and it beate out meale and Hemp and ground bread altogether—that is at y^e same tyme. When y^e substance for y^e paper is pounded Enough, they take it in a great tub and so with a frame just of y^e size of y^e sheetes of paper made all of small wire just as I have seen fine Screens to Screen Corne in, only this is much Closer wrought, and they Clap a frame of wood round y^e Edge and so dip it into y^e tub and what is too thinn runs through; then they turn this frame down on a piece of Coarse woollen just of y^e size of y^e paper and so give a Knock to it and it falls off; on w^ch they Clap another such a piece of woollen Cloth w^ch is ready to Lay y^e next frame of paper, and so till they have made a large heape w^ch they by a board on the bottom move to a press, and so Lay a board on y^e top and so Let down a great screw and weight on it, w^ch they force together into such a narrow Compass as they know so many sheets of paper will be reduced, and this presses out all y^e thinner part and Leaves the paper so firme as it may be taken up sheete by sheete and Laid together to be thoroughly dryed by the wind. They told me white paper was made in the same manner only they must take white woollen to put between. There is a great number of French people in this town w^ch are 102Employ’d in the weaving and silk winding, I meete them Every night going home in great Companyes, but then some of them were Employ’d in the Hopping, it being the season for pulling them. Here is a spring in the town that is dranke by many persons as Tunbridge and approv’d by them, but others find it an ill water, one Gentleman in y^e same house I was in Complained of a numbness in his Limbs after drinking it sometyme, w^ch is quite Contrary to Tunbridge waters whose property is to relieve Lost Limbs y^t are benumbed, and it Comeing from steele should have y^t Effect it raising the blood and gives it a new Circulation. The taste of the spring in this town seems to be from a mixt soyle and bears a Likeness to y^e Sulpher spaw Epsome and y^e Iron springs too w^ch are at Tunbridge; what its operation is I Cannot tell only tasteing halfe a Glass of it w^ch I did not Like. Y^e well is walled in and a raile round w^th stepps down and paved aboute for the Company to stand just at y^e head to drinke, but I like no spring y^t rises not quick and runs off apace that must have most spirit and good off the minerall it Comes from. There is fine walks and seates and places for the musick to make it acceptable and Comodious to y^e Company. There is a large Market house and a town Hall over it in the town, but the Cathedrall is the finest sight there, the Carving of stone is very fine on the outside as also within, but its not so Large as Salisbury; its a square tower—no spire running up from it—but the small ones at Each Corner of y^e tower for ornament.

There are two large jsles in y^e middle of the Church w^ch leads to open gates of jron barrs and spikes, thence is an ascent of 20 steps, as Winchester Church is; up to y^e Quire, where is a fine Large organ, so is the ffont well Carv’d and painted and Gilded, the bottom is white and grey Marble w^th white marble statues round the stem to the ffoote, the top is made in a piramidy Carv’d and painted. The Windows in y^e Quire are most delicately painted as Ever I saw, y^e Curiosity of the worke and Coullours beyond others, but the size of the windows much Inferior being very small for a Church. Y^e Glass is very thick and the Coullours Laid 103on it strikes through the glass, its Coullours tinctures all y^e Glass, an art w^ch now is lost amongst us. At y^e Alter is a Cloth and Coushons of purple ffigured Velvet the books the same, there is a broad tissue border of orrace work gold and silver, and at y^e Edge is a ffine knotted fringe of purple silk and gold. The Bishops seate and Cushon the same w^ch was given by our good Queen Mary King Williams Queen when she was at Canterbery. The Chapter house is pretty Lofty supported by its own worke w^th out pillars, its Ceiled with Irish oake, there are severall good monuments of y^e Kings and queens and great men and severall Bishops. There is one Bishops statue y^t was at y^e paines to divide the Bible into Chapters w^ch makes it more Commodious to the Reader, and was a good Employment for him it being the proper subject of such a person of y^e Church to studdy y^e holy Scriptures w^ch gives the truest wisdom. There is the Chaire that all y^e Arch Bishops are Inaugurated in when made Arch Bishops, its wood with Elbows. There is another statue of a Bishop Cut out in wood, his Robes and all well Carv’d and is ffirm and solid still, Except some small deffaceing by y^e soldiers in y^e warre tyme, and this has stood some 100 of yeares. There is a Chapple Called Thomas of Beckets Crown, the Roofe being Carv’d in the fform of a Crown and painted; there is also a pavement w^ch is much worne by the feete and knees off this S^ts votarys that Came to do obeysance to his Shrine. There is one Brass statue in armour but its not so bright being less regarded than that at Warwick. Under the Cathedrall is a Large Church just Like S^t Ffaiths under S^t Pauls in London; this is given to the Ffrench protestants in the town for the worshipping God, it holds a vast number of people, its as full of Seates as Can thrust by Each other, it seemed a Little darkish, but they say when the doores are open its Light Enough, its so well arch’d that they Cannot hear them in the Cathedrall when singing—at least no wayes to disturb them. I went out another part of the town thro’ a good gate and so to Dover 15 mile much up hill and down, it was a good Road and Sort of Champion Country, yet at a distance you see many good woods and 104pretty houses w^th Rows of trees. The Castle at Dover is discover’d five mile off standing on the Edge of a very steep hill on w^ch you ascend up to y^e tower 120 steps up, whence you discover Callice in Ffrance. I saw the Clifts and hills plaine, but in some Cleer dayes towards the Evening you may see the towers and buildings of Callice, you likewise see a vast way on all sides sea ward and to y^e Land. The Castle is Left much to decay and ruinated only a small appartment for the Governour of three or four Roomes, Else y^e whole is spoyl’d the floores taken up and wanscoate pulled down. I was in the roome Queen Elizabeth was kept prisoner in till the death of queen Mary, the balcony just by in w^ch she saw the messenger Coming which she supposed was of Death to take off her head, but proved the Messenger that brought y^e news of the Crown and Kingdom falling to her by the death of her sister. She afterwards repaired the Chapple but now its quite out of use, the Roofe and side being Mouldred down in many places. There is a fine dry well in y^e Castle walled Curiously of a vast depth, the use of it was to Discover the work of the miners in tyme of a siege whereabout they were at worke, going down into this well discovered y^e working by y^e shakeing y^e Earth at what side they were at worke, and so might defeate them by a Countermine. There is also a great well of 60 ffathom deep, the water is drawn up by a great wheele with a horse, notwithstanding its so deep yet its also wide and Exactly down Right, that I could see the water at the top, and when I flung a stone w^ch was a pretty while descending I saw when it plashed into y^e water. There is on y^e Plattform guns mounted w^ch being so high Commands the Road so as no ship Durst saile under it. Its a mighty steep Clift at the poynt which makes ones head Giddy to Look down to the sea. There is one Gun of Cast Brass of a Great Length finely Carv’d and adorn’d with ffigures, this Carrys a Ball a great way tho’ y^e bore or muzzle of y^e Gun be not bigger than my fist, so the Ball its Charged with Cannot be very bigg but it will do Execution a great way off; this was made at Utriche in Holland and presented to Queen 105Elizabeth; its worth a great sum of money for its Curiosity. There is a Little Cannon of y^e same worke w^ch I have seen in y^e Tower at London, there is a great Inscription on it. There are Gunns also planted in a Little ffort at y^e ffoote of this steepe Clift to secure y^e Road from Pirates, for as to Dover town it Looks like a place of no deffence, its a Little place, y^e houses are Little and looks thrust together, there is a market house and town hall, its well enough for the accomodation of the seamen and to Supply the shipps w^th anything, it seems where the town stands the sea formerly Came in and was Cover’d under water severall fathom deep so as the shipps Ride there in harbour. The town was only within the Limits of a wall w^ch Encompass’s y^e Castle of which small matters appears, only of a great Banck and some parts of y^e Ruines of y^e ffoundation, but y^e sea Leaving the shore so ffarre they have built this town w^ch has no gates.

Thence we went to Deale 7 mile, all by the sea side w^ch is Called the Downs w^ch sometymes is full of shipps all along the Road, but now there were not many. The Downes seems to be so open a place and the shoar so Easye for Landing I should think it no difficulty to Land a good army of men in a little tyme, there is only 3 Little fforts, or Castles they Call them, about a miles distance one to another—Warworth at Deal, and Sandwitch which holds a few Guns, but I should think they would be of Little Effect and give the Enemy no great trouble. Deale Looks like a good thriveing place, y^e buildings new and neate Brickwork with gardens. I believe they are most masters of shipps houses and seamen or Else those that belong to y^e Cordage and Saile makeing with other Requisites to shipping. All this Country about seemes to be a very fruitfull soyle and full of woods. You see a many pretty towns altogether almost, neate Churches and towers all the way you travell from Dover to Deale on y^r Left hand, but beyond Deale you go a very deepe heavy sand for 4 mile to Sandwich. You go along by y^e Sea side in sight of the jsle of Thannet w^ch is just over against Sandwich and is so near it you see y^e Lands and jnclosures and woods and houses. 106I suppose it not a quarter of a League from Sandwich; this is a sad old town all timber building, you Enter by a gate and so you go out of it by a gate, but its run so to Decay that Except one or two good houses its just like to Drop down y^e whole town.

Thence to Canterbery ten mile most thro’ Lanes. We come by my Lord Winchelseas house, garden and parke. Y^e house is an old building—and so I Entered Canterbery another way through another gate and observ’d all wayes to y^e town—being from hills gives the prospect of y^e town very finely to the Eye and Indeed it Lookes like a good Citty altogether which way Ever you Looke on it in the approach. From thence to Maidstone I went 9 mile back the way I Came, and on the hill 6 mile off w^ch gave me so fine a sight of Canterbery as I came, did Likewise present a pleaseing prospect as I returned; it being a very high hill Commands the view of the Country a vast way and w^th such variety of woods rivers and Inclosures and buildings that was very delicate and diverting. When I turned off the road to Maidstone I travell’d through Lanes and woods w^ch were very ffine but hid y^e sight of the Country about being so Close; y^t it was y^e privatest Road I have travell’d. About 10 mile short of Maidstone you ascend a very steep hill w^ch discovers the whole Country at one view 40 mile off backward from whence we Came; and a few paces on the top of y^e hill the descent of the hill on that other side is so great a fall that gives you as full a discovery of the Country all forward, both w^ch shew the variety of grounds intermixt w^th Each other, and Lesser hills and plaines and Rivers w^ch such advanced grounds present y^e travellers at one view; this is Called Boxlye hills and is part of the same Ridge of hills w^ch runs along by Epsome.

From Canterbery its 30 mile to Maidstone. Maidstone town is a very neate market town as you shall see in the Country, its buildings are mostly of timber worke, the streetes are Large. The Market Cross runs down in the middle of the greate streete a good way, there being three divisions in it, one good Cross for fruite, another for Corne, and another for all sorts of things, 2 of which is 107built over for the town hall and publick use. There is also a Large Gail. This streete notwithstanding the hall and Cross stands in the midst, is yet a good breadth on Each side and when it Comes to meete in one, is very broad and runs down a great Length quite to the bridge Cross the Medway which is not very broad here, yet it beares Barges that bring up burdens to the town: it seemes to divide the town for beyond the Bridge are buildings, whole streetes w^ch runs along y^e river. There are very pretty houses about the town, looks like the habitation of Rich men. I believe its a wealthy place, there are severall pretty streetes. This was Market day being Thursday and it seemed to be well furnish’d w^th all sorts of Commodityes and I observed there was great quantety’s of Leather but Could not Learn what particular thing that was their staple Comodity or tradeing in, but in Generall it seemed to be like a Little faire for the variety of wares tho’ they told me that was not so full a Market as some dayes because the Country people were taken up aboute their hopping so Could not bring things to Market. Thence to Rochester 8 mile, I came by a great many ffine hopp yards where they were at work pulling y^e hopps. I came into Rochester at the other side, thro’ the wood on the hill I mentioned before, from whence the town and y^e dock yards washed by the Medway, with the shipps at anchor was as acceptable a prospect and diverting as was y^e other on the other side. I went through y^e town just by the great Church w^ch is a good building but nothing Curious: also I went by y^e Castle wall w^ch is but small what remaines of it; thence over the ffine bridge, and as I travell’d all along in sight of the Medway to Rochester, so Next day I went in sight of the Thames. I went that night to Gravesend w^ch is all by the side of Cherry grounds that are of severall acres of ground, and Runs quite down to the Thames w^ch is Convenient for to Convey the Cherrys to London, for here the Great produce of that fruite is w^ch supplyes y^e town and Country with y^e Kentish Cherrys, a good sort Fflemish fruite. I went 2 mile beyond Gravesend w^ch made it in miles 9 from Rochester, to a Little place Called Northfleete, its much in the woods. 108Thence I went to Dartfford 6 mile a little neate town; thence to Shutershill 2 mile on the top of w^ch hill you see a vast prospect Exactly Round it, being a great height of ground and such a descent Every way that Commands the sight of a vast tract of ground, w^ch appeares in y^e greatest variety—some Lands Clothed w^th trees, others with grass and flowers, gardens orchards w^th all sorts of Herbage and tillage, w^th y^e severall Little towns all by y^e river Eariff, Leigh, Woolwich &c, quite up to London, Greenwitch, Deadford, Blackwall—the Thames twisting and turning itself up and down bearing severall vessells and men of warre on it, and some under saile. On this part of the River I have seen 100 saile of shipps pass by in a morning which is one of the finest sights that is; added to this you view all Blackheath, the kings parke att Greenwitch, and a vast Country on y^t side, besides y^e places whence I came by: turning about I Could view at Least 20 mile. This is Esteemed as a noted Robbing place; on this hill are severall springs of water w^ch Comes from Allum which are very quick purges much Like Epsome and Dullage, but I thinke farre Exceeds Either in strength and opperation. Thence to Greenwitch 2 mile where I ferry’d over, and observ’d one Little shipp passed by me w^ch I observ’d was farr behind me in y^e morning at Gravesend and sailed along in sight all the tyme and was gotten before me. I fferry’d to Popler and Stepney, so to Hackney 3 mile, thence to Tatnum 2 mile, thence to Endfield 5 miles, w^ch is all in Middlesex Ever since I fferryed over out of Kent. Thence to Amwellbery 10 mile in Hartfordshire w^ch I Compleated in 5 days, and went 184 miles, w^ch added to severall journeys I went in Hartfordshire and twice to Amwell and to London againe w^ch is 76 mile done, and y^e severall journeys at London and in Hartfordshire, Comes to 150 more miles besides the Little Rideings to take y^e aire at the parke or Else, w^ch were severall miles more if added together w^ch I have gone this year: but w^thout that it is 226 miles, so add these to my Northern journey this yeare makes about 1045 miles of which I did not go above a hundred in the Coach.

109 I being in Kent this year shall Insert something of Tunbridge. The waters I have dranke many years w^th great advantage—they are from the Steele and Iron mines, very quick springs Especially one well. There are two w^th Large basons of stone fixt in y^e Earth w^th severall holes in the bottom by w^ch the springs bubble up and fill it so as it alwayes runns over, notwithstanding the quantety dipp’d up in a morning which is the usual tyme the Company Comes, and the nearer they drink it the spring y^e better, it being a spiriteous water that is ready to Evaporate if Carry’d any way, as has been try’d by weighing the water by the well and Carrying them but to y^e middle of the walks, it has Lost of y^e weight, and much more the End of the whole walke: notwithstanding many has it brought to their Lodgings a mile or two off and drink them in their beds, nay, some have them brought to London w^ch is near 40 miles. They have the bottles filled and corked in the well under the Water and so seale down the Corks w^ch they say preserves it. They have made the wells very Comodious by the many good buildings all about it and 2 or 3 mile round which are Lodgings for the Company that drinke ye waters, and they have Encreased their buildings so much that makes them very Cheape. All people buy their own provision at y^e market w^ch is just by y^e wells and furnish’d w^th great plenty of all sorts. Flesh, fowle and fish and in great plenty is brought from Rhye and Deale &c, this being y^e road to London, so all the season the water is drank they stop here w^ch makes it very Cheape, as also the Country people Come w^th all their backyard and barne door affords to supply them with, and their gardens and orchards, w^ch makes y^e markets well stored and provision Cheape, w^ch the Gentry takes as a diversion while drinking the waters to go and buy their dinners; it being Every day’s market and runns the whole Length of y^e walke, w^ch is between high trees on the market side for shade, and secured w^th a Row of buildings on y^e Right side, w^ch are shopps full of all sorts of toys, silver China, milliners and all sorts of Curious wooden ware w^ch this place is noted for, (the delicate neate and thin ware of wood both white and Lignum vitæ wood): besides 110w^ch there are two Large Coffee houses for tea, Chocolate &c, and two Roomes for y^e Lottery and hazard board. These are all built w^th an arch or pent house beyond y^e shops, some of w^ch are supported by pillars like a peason, w^ch is paved w^th brick and stone for y^e drye walking of ye Company in raine; Else they walke w^th out w^ch is a Clay and sand mixt together. They have been intending to make it gravell w^ch would be much better. All those Conveniency’s are added by y^e Companyes Contributions Every year—what has been and so what will be. There is at y^e Lower End of the walke, w^ch is a broad space before you Come to y^e walls of y^e wells, a Large sun-dial set upon severall steps of stone, thence you go straight along to a Chapple w^ch has been built by ye severall Collections of ye Company Every year; its a pretty place and Cost a great deal of money, and Every year there is Contribution for ye maintenance of a minister. There are severall buildings just about ye well where are severall apothecary’s shops, there is also a Room for ye post house. The post Comes Every day and returns Every day all the while the season of drinking ye waters is, from London and to it; Except Mondayes none Comes down from London, so on Satturdayes non goes up to London. You pay a penny Extraordinary for being brought from tunbridge town w^ch is 4 mile distance, that being a post town, you Likewise have the Conveniency of Coaches every day from London for 8 shillings apiece dureing the whole season, and Carriers twice a weeke.

There are severall bowling greens about y^e wells, one just at it on Mount Sion and another up y^e hill Called Mount Ephraim where is also a Large Chapple where the presbiterians have preaching: they have a minister w^ch by y^e Collections of y^e Company is also maintained all the winter to preach, as is the publick Chapple at the walks. There is severall other Bowling greens at a distance off a mile or two, fitted for Companys Lodging there, as Rust hall and Southbourough; they have all houses to y^e greens, so the Gentlemen Bowle, the Ladies dance or walke in y^e green in y^e afternoones, and if wet dance in the houses, there being 111Musick maintained by the Company to play in the morning so long while they drink the waters, and in y^e afternoon for danceing.

There are severall good taverns at the walks and all about to supply good wine and Brewhouses for beer and Bakers for Bread, but some of them Come from London and spoyle the market by raiseing y^e price—so the higlers and Hucksters in a great measure. This whole Country is full of stone and jron, the Earth is Clay and Sand. About 3 mile off there is a good seate of the Lord Lesters Spenshurst w^ch stands in a very good parke; the house is but old—Large roomes and stone staires and windows, a good hall and gallery full of good old pictures, and other roomes of state; no ffurniture but old tapistry hangings. You have a most pleasant prospect as you go to it and from it, of valeys Cover’d with woods of great Length, and hills beyond on the other side. About 3 or 4 miles off is a seate of the Lord Abergauneys w^ch is Lord of the manour in a parke and fine woods all about it, the most of the Country is woody. There is 4 or 5 miles off a place they Cast Gunns, there being a great store of oare all over the Country: its a great Charge and Continuall attendance. When they have Lighted y^e fire for to Cast bells or guns they must be Cautiously blowing, and y^e mettle will be apt to fall down on the nose of y^e bellows and harden; that if it be not still Cleared off would quickly damm up the fire and put it out. There are severall good houses all about and a pleasant place to Ride in in y^e summer and dry weather, but a sad deep impassable Road when much Raine has fallen. As I was Rideing about I took a view of y^e Country in many parts. There is a Little rivulet just by the wells w^ch divides y^e Countys so that y^e buildings are some in Kent some in Sussex.

About ffaint 4 or 5 mile off is a house of Lord Abergauny and parkes and much woods about it. Another way by Lakington Green and Groombridge about 4 mile off is an old house in a parck, pretty Large, Called Ashurst w^ch they say belonged to Alderman Ashurst family, but hurst w^ch signifyes grove or wood is a name all here about, as Spenshurst Lord Lesters house 4 mile another way in a good 112Parke and Speldhurst another parish 2 or 3 mile off and Goodhurst about 12 mile off the Wells. I went by Calvery plaine and Woods gate and so to a Little Market town Called Branklye; the way is much thro’ Lanes, being an Enclosed Country for the most part, w^ch is the Cause of these names as is much of Sussex w^ch joyns to Kent; there are places Called Billingshurst and Medhurst and Pendhurst &c. This Goodhurst I went to stands on a great hill and is seen severall miles, 2 mile from y^e first ascent w^ch is at a Little village belonging to it, and to y^e top of y^e hill w^ch is y^e middle of y^e place. Its a pretty Large place—old timber houses, but y^e Extent of y^e parish is neare ten miles. They are a sort of yeomanry Gentry, about 2 or 3 or 400£ a year and Eate and drink well and Live Comfortably and Hospitably.

The old proverb was a yeoman of Kent w^th one years rent Could buy out y^e Gentlemen of Wales and knight of Sscales and a Lord of y^e North Country—his Estate was so much better. All in these parts are the same Minerall waters being much on Iron mines. I returned againe to tunbridge wells the 12 mile, then I went from thence to Sumerhill about 4 or 5 mile off, thro’ much woods and lanes and some pleasant shades of Lofty trees. This is a seate of y^e last viscount Purbecks—stands on a hill in a good Large parke, built of stone and Lookes in good repaire for y^e most part, and good Large Roomes and Staircases and abundance of good sizeable Roomes Leading one out of another in visto’s thro’ the house, something Like our new way of building and Lofty Enough. Its Capable of being very fine w^th visto’s of walks Cut through and across a great many, which delights the Rider or walker being so shady w^th Lofty trees. There is remains of a bowling green w^ch is an advanced piece of ground above all the rest and discovers the Country a great Circuite round; then we returned to the wells againe 5 mile.

Then I went from y^e wells to Rye 31 miles, by Ambursly 8 mile—this was good way being a drye summer, otherwise its deep being Clay for y^e most part. I passed much through Lanes and little villages and near Rye I went thro’ 113a Comon full of Bushes and ffurze and heath; its a pretty steep hill I ascended w^ch is Called beggars hill and being Bartholomew tide here was a faire w^ch was Rightly Called beggarhill faire being the saddest faire I ever saw—ragged tatter’d Booths and people—but the musick and danceing Could not be omitted. This hill on the top gave the view of y^e sea and a great tract of Land on Each side. That is Choak’d up w^th sand w^ch formerly was a good haven for shipps; the sea does still Come up to Rhye town as yet but its shallow, and y^e Castle w^ch stands a Little distance—a mile—is also left of the sea at least 4 mile. This is Winchelsea Castle but all between it and Winchelsea is nothing but Quagmire and marshes, drained in some places by ditches, and this is at Least 4 miles to the town. I did go to it but first fferry’d over a Little arm of the sea w^ch still finds a Current up to some of y^e Land between Rhye and Winchelsea, then I rode round y^e marshes on y^e side of a hill in narrow foote paths, and passed over a Bridge Cross another Little arme of y^e sea: near it is a gate on y^e Bridge and Enters you into the Libertys of y^e town w^ch stands on a pretty high hill. From it Lookes not of any great Circuite of ground by y^e first view, being high, but in y^e middle you see it has been a fine place for there were 36 Large Squares of building, the remaines of pieces of walls in most places you see, or else a hedge supplys that you see y^e streetes were very broad and long and divided these squares, ye Cross streetes y^e same. I rode up a middle streete and saw y^e others run aCross of Equal breadth. Remaines of Churches and halls are to be seen but Else grass grows now where Winchelsea was as was once said of Troy. There are but a very few houses now, but y^e Corporation still Continues and y^e major and aldermen w^ch 13 makes most of y^e Inhabitants. M^r Majors house Look’d neate as did y^e parsonage. They Elect two Burgesses to it in y^e parliament and its y^e ancientest Corporation in England, so y^t should Lord Major of London meete M^r Major of Winchelsea he must give him place: it was as flourishing place before the sea Left it that was in England, but now lost, as Rhye will be in a Little tyme if the sea 114Leaves it, w^ch is in a very faire way to do; and men now apply to quite Drane the marshes for Corn and grass Rather than Endeavour to Cleare y^e Channell of the sand w^ch if it were done would be y^e best harbour for shipps as formerly was. There are great vaults in Winchelsea w^ch was the merchants Cellars, and were houses.

There was some few brass and marble statues in the Church but much demolished as was y^e Church. Rhye town is not very bigg—a little Market place—this is famous for fish; from hence all the good turbutt, pearle and Dorea and all sort of sea fish Comes to supply y^e wells and London, but I could get little. Y^e faire took up y^e ffishermen. Indeed here I dranke Right french white wine and Exceeding good and then returned to y^e wells 38 miles. In the Road from thence to London you go either by Fair lane and so Come just by S^r Harry Vaines house (now Lord Barnett), w^ch Lookes very finely w^th y^e Rows of trees about it, or Else you go by Sevenoake a sad deep Clay way after wett. You Come in sight of a great house on a hill Called Summerly, looks like a Little town it runs on so much ground, it was the Lord Purbeckes.

You also Come in sight of Nonsuch w^ch was a great house of the Kings Built by Charles the Second. You pass on to the Riverhead as they Call it, a fine spring of Cleare water y^t runs thence in a Little River. is at the foote of a great hill Called Madam Scott hill so steepe as seldome is Either Rode down or up, and few Coaches but gaines the top of it by a Compass round it w^ch is steep Enough. This is 15 mile from the wells—thence to Ffarnburough: about 8 mile, thence to Brumley, and to London 15 more.

MY GREAT JOURNEY TO NEWCASTLE
AND TO CORNWALL,

the account of many journeys into most parts of England, what observation and distance of one place to another in my travels.

Ffrom London to Albins in Essex 17 mile S^r Robert abdys, Whose house stands very pleasantly in a parke full 115of deer. The house on an advanced ground appeares to view at y^e Entrance, but its old building: Large Roomes—some Rows of trees Lead up to it. Thence I returned home 17 mile more, from London to Bednal-green twice, and back againe 16 mile, from London to Highgate 4 miles to M^r Thomas’s house, where is a most exact garden w^th all sorts of greens and flowers and fish ponds. There my Nephew Ffiennes Harrison w^th M^r Showers went to fish w^th me. Thence we went to Hampstead, so made it 5 mile home againe. I went from London twice and back againe from Kensington, in all 8 mile—this I put in only to know the number of miles y^t I went in one yeare.

Ffrom London to Amwell bery w^ch is in Hartfordshire 19 mile, where I staid a day or two: thence to Bishopstafford in Essex 13 mile, thence to Dunmew 8 long miles thro’ severall Little villages; its very deep way Especially after raine. This is a Little Market town: they are altogether taken up about the spinning and prepareing for the Bayes. All along between that and Colchester you pass but halfe a mile Ere one Comes to two or 3 houses all along the road; its from Dunmow to Colchester 22 miles and mostly Clay deep way. Colchester is a Large town in the Compass of Ground. Fformerly there was 16 Churches tho’ now much of it is ruinated. A mile before you Come to the new town one Enters a little village which still is in the Limits of y^e Citty and Majors jurisdiction; there is a pretty good house of y^e Lord Lucas.

You Enter the town by a gate; there are 4 in all; there is a Large Streete w^ch runs a great Length down to the bridge, near a mile long: about the middle of it runs another broad streete and near its Length like stalls on purpose to Lay their Bayes when exposed to saile. Great quantetyes are made here and sent in Bales to London that is 44 miles distant. Y^e whole town is Employ’d in spinning weaveing, washing drying and dressing their Bayes in w^ch they seeme very Industrious. There I saw y^e Card they use to Comb and dress the Bayes, w^ch they Call y^m testles, w^ch are a kind of Rush tops or something Like them w^ch they put in frames or Laths of wood. The town Looks 116Like a thriveing place by the substantiall houses and well pitched streetes w^ch are broad Enough for two Coaches to go a breast, besides a pitch’d walke on Either side by y^e houses secured by stumps of wood, and is Convenient for 3 to walke together. Their buildings are of timber of Loame and Lathes and much tileing: the fashion of the Country runs much in Long Roofes and great Cantilivers and peakes. Out of these great streetes runs many Little streetes, but not very narrow—mostly old buildings Except a few houses builded by some Quakers, y^t are brick and of the London mode. The town did Extend itself to the sea but now its ruines sets it 3 mile off. Y^e low Grounds all about y^e town are used for y^e whitening their Bayes for w^ch this town is remarkable, and also for Exceeding good oysters, but its a dear place and to Grattifye my Curiosity to Eate them on y^e place I paid dear. Its a town full of Dessenters, 2 meeteings very full besides anabaptists and quakers. Formerly the famous M^r Stockton was minister there till he Dyed. From Colchester to jpswitch is 10 mile, and thence to Dedom 9 miles, the way pretty good Except 4 or 5 miles they Call y^e severalls, a sort of deep moore Ground and woody. At this place I passed over a wooden bridge, pretty Large, w^th timber railes of w^ch make they build their bridges in these parts; and now I go into Suffolk w^ch is not so rich Land as y^e part of Essex I passed through, w^ch was meadows and grounds w^th great burdens of grass and Corn. So I went to jpswitch 9 mile more; this is a very Clean town and much bigger than Colchester is now. Ipswitch has 12 Churches, their streetes of a good size well pitch’d w^th small stones; a good market Cross railed in. I was there on Satturday w^ch is their market day and saw they sold their Butter by y^e pinte 20 ounces for 6 pence and often for 5^d or 4^d; they make it up in a mold just in the shape of a pinte pot and so sell it. Their Market Cross has good Carving, y^e ffigure of justice Carv’d and Gilt. There is but 3 or 4 good houses in y^e town—y^e rest is much Like y^e Colchester buildings, but it seems more shatter’d, and Indeed the town Looks a Little disregarded, and by Enquiry found it to be thro’ pride and sloth, for tho’ the sea would 117bear a ship of 300 tun up quite to y^e Key, and y^e ships of y^e first Rate Can Ride w^th in two mile of the town, yet they make no advantage thereof by any sort of manufacture, w^ch they might do as well as Colchester and Norwitch, so that y^e shipps that brings their Coales goes Light away, neither do they address themselves to victual or provide for shipps. They have a Little dock where formerly they built ships of 2 or 3 tun, but now Little or Nothing is minded save a Little ffishing for y^e supply of y^e town. There is one pretty good house of y^e Earle of Herrifords that marry’d one of M^r Norborns Daughters, that was Killed by S^r Tho: Montgomery. You Enter thro’ two Courts walled and divided by a breast wall on w^ch are Iron spikes pallasadoes: the Middle is a broad gravell walk fenced in w^th stone walls; on Each side 3 or 4 steps up into the other Court, and so many steps more thro’ an arch into a third Court. This arch joyns a Low building w^ch are the offices Leaded on the top, and rail’d round, and Each End Enters into Chambers joyning to y^e house, that is built round this Last Court from whence you Enter y^e porch. The house is handsome all brick worke and brick pillars; a good hall, parlour, and drawing roome, and Large Closet, 2 or 3 other Roomes less, answereing it and a Billyard Roome above w^th as many roomes of state all ffurnish’d w^th good old things: a pretty staircase, but its all Little. There are 3 gardens on the one side w^th grass and gravell walkes all kept neate, and good fruite; on the other side is one Large garden w^th a sumer house in w^ch stands a Large statue, black, of a Gigantick form and proportion; this answeres the fine green house on y^e other side. This town has many dessenters in it. Thence I went to Woodbridge 7 miles mostly Lanes, Enclosed Countrys. This is a Little Market town but has a great meeting for y^e dessenters. Thence to Wickham 5 mile more but these are all very Long miles.

Thence to Saxmunday 8 miles more: this is a pretty bigg market town. The wayes are pretty deep, mostly Lanes very Little Commons. I pass’d by severall Gentlemens seates, one, M^r Dormers w^ch stands in a fine parke. Y^e Entrance from y^e Road thro’ rows of trees Discover’d 118the front and building very finely to view, being built w^th stone and Brick and many sashes: Lookes like a new house w^th y^e open jron barr gates between pillars of stone the breadth of y^e house. So to Bathfort 8 miles where is the remaines of y^e walls of an abby and there is still a very fine Church all Carv’d in stone hollow work one tire above another to y^e tower that ascends not very high but finely Carv’d: also hence I descended with Low^r grounds banck’d on Each side w^th a brick wall, but Low and so a walk on it for foote people, and severall arches here and there to draine off the water, so that those bancks are to secure the Road from the Marshy ffenny water that of a great Extent on both sides is subject to. Thence I passed by some woods and Little villages of a few scattered houses, and Generally y^e people here are able to give so bad a Direction that passengers are at a loss what aime to take: they know scarce 3 mile from their home, and meete them where you will and Enquire how farre to such a place they mind not where they are then, but tell you so farre, w^ch is the distance from their own houses to y^t place. I saw at a distance as I descended some of their hills a Large place that Look’d nobly and stood very high Like a Large town. They told me it was called Either Stowle or Nole I cannot tell w^ch. I Rode in sight of S^t Georges Channell In the way from Colchester and Ipswitch and so to Norwich. Sometymes it was in view then Lost againe. To Beckle is 8 mile more w^ch in all was 36 miles from Ipswitch, but Exceeding Long miles; they do own they are 41 measured miles. This is a Little market town but its the third biggest town in y^e County of Suffolke—Ipswitch Berry and this. Here was a good big meeteing place at Least 400 hearers and they have a very good minister one M^r Killinghall; he is but a young man but seemed very serious. I was there y^e Lords day. S^r Robert Rich is a great supporter of them and Contributed to y^e building the meeteing place w^ch is very neate. He has a good house at y^e End of the town w^th fine gardens. There are no good buildings the town, being old timber and plaister work Except his and one or two more. There is a pretty 119bigg market Cross, and a great Market kept. There is a handsome stone built Church and a very good publick minister whose name is Armstrong: he preaches very well they say notwithstanding the town is a sad Jacobitish town. This Chooses no parliam^t men. At y^e towns End one passes over the river Waveny on a wooden bridg railed w^th timber and so you Enter into Norfolk: its a Low flatt ground all here about, so that the Least raines they are overflowed by y^e River and Lye under water as they did when I was there, so that the roade Lay under water w^ch is very unsafe for strangers to pass by reason of y^e holes and quicksands and Loose bottom. The ordinary people both in Suffolk and Norfolk knitt much and spin, some w^th y^e Rock and fusoe as the French does, others at their wheeles out in the streete and Lanes as one passes. Its from this town to Norwitch 12 miles, and its 10 to Yarmouth where they build some small shipps, and is a harbour for them and where they victual them. Also Harwitch about 12 or 14 miles also, but the miles are here as long again as about London and pretty deep way, Especially after raines: these miles are much Longer than most miles in Yorkshire.

Norwitch opens to view a mile distance by the help of a hill whereon is a little village. As I observe most of y^e great towns and Cittys have about them Little villages as attendants or appendix’s to them w^ch are a sort of Subburbs, there being stragling houses for y^e most part all the way between y^t and y^e gates. You pass over a high bridge y^t leads on over a high Causey of a pretty Length w^ch Lookes somewhat dangerous being fenced with trenches from its bancks (pretty deep) that’s on both sides to secure it from the water, and these trenches runns in many places round the Low grounds to drain them, w^ch Employ’d to whiten and Bleach their woollen stuff the manufacture of the place. This Long Causey brings you to the Large stone bridge over the river into w^ch those trenches Empty themselves.

Then you proceed to the Citty w^ch is walled round full of towers Except on the river side w^ch serves for the wall. 120They seeme y^e best in repaire of any walled Citty I know tho’ in some places there are little breaches, but the Carving and battlements and towers Lookes well. I enter’d the west gate. There are 12 gates in all and 36 Churches, which is to be seen in a Clear Day altogether on the Castle walls—I told 30 myself there. They are built all of flints well headed or Cut w^ch makes them Look blackish and shineing. The streetes are all well pitch’d w^th small stones and very Clean, and many very broad streetes: y^t I Entred in first was very broad for 2 Coaches or Carts to pass on Either side, and in the middle was a great well house w^th a wheele to wind up the water for the good of y^e publick. A Little further is a Large pond walled up w^th brick a mans height w^th an Entrance on one End. A Little farther was a building on which they were at work, design’d for a water house to supply y^e town by pipes into their houses w^th water. At a Little distance was another such a pond walled in as I described before. These things fill up the middle of this spacious streete w^ch is for use and also ornament, y^e spaces Each side being so broad. This brings you into a broad space Called the Hay market w^ch is on a hill, a very steep descent all well pitch’d as before: this Comes to another space for a market to sell hoggs in, and opens farther into divisions of buildings that begins severall streetes y^t runs off good Lengths and are of a tollerable size. One runs along behind w^ch is all for stalls for y^e Country butchers that bring their meate for y^e supply of y^e town, w^ch pay such a Rent for them to y^e town. On y^e other side are houses of y^e town butchers, y^e Inhabitants: by it is a Large market for fish, w^ch are all at a Little distance from y^e heart of y^e Citty, so is not annoy’d w^th them. There is a very Large market place and hall and Cross for fruite and little things Every day, and also a place under pillars for y^e Corn market.

The building round here is Esteemed y^e best and here is the town Hall, but all their buildings are of an old form, mostly in deep poynts and much tileing as has been observ’d before, and they playster on Laths w^ch they strike out into squares like broad free stone on y^e outside, w^ch 121makes their fronts Look pretty well; and some they build high and Contract y^e roofes resembling the London houses, but none of brick Except some few beyond the river w^ch are built of some of y^e Rich factors like y^e London buildings. There is in y^e middle of y^e town the Duke of Norfolks house of Brick and stone, w^th severall towers and turrets and balls y^t Looks well, w^th Large gardens, but y^e Inside is all demolished only y^e walls stand and a few Roomes for offices but nothing of state or tollerable for use.

On y^e Castle hill you see y^e whole Citty at once, being built round it: its a vast place and takes up a Large tract of ground, its 6 miles in Compass.

Here is the County hall and Goale where y^e assizes are held and y^e Sessions. Nothing of y^e Castle remaines but a green space, and under it is also a Large space for y^e beast market, and 3 tymes in y^e year is there a very great faire kept to w^ch resort a vaste Concourse of people, and wares—a full trade. Y^e whole Citty Lookes Like what it is, a Rich thriveing Industrious place; Satturday is their great market day. They have beside y^e town hall a hall distinct w^ch is the scaleing hall where their stuffs are all measured, and if they hold their breadths and Lengths they are scaled, but if they are deffective there is a fine Layd on y^e owner and a private marke on y^e stuff w^ch shews its defficiency.

There was also y^e mint which they Coyn’d, but since the old money is all new Coyn’d into mill’d money, that Ceases. Here there is a ffine large Cathedrall and very Loftly, but nothing remarkable of monuments or else: by it is 3 hospitalls for boys girls and old people who spinn yarne, as does all y^e town besides for y^e Crapes, Callimancos and damaskes w^ch is y^e whole business of the place. Indeed they are arrived to a great perfection in worke, so fine and thinn and glossy; their pieces are 27 yards in Length and their price is from 30 shillings to 3 pound as they are in ffineness. A man Can weave 13 yards a day, I saw some weaveing; they are all Employ’d in spinning, knitting weaveing, dying, scouring or bleaching stuffs. Their hospitalls are well provided for; there are 32 women in one 122as many men in y^e other, there is also a good free schoole. There is a great many Cerimonyes in y^e Choice and Swearing their major: they Elect him the first day of May and yⁿ prepare for his being sworne on Holly Thursday. They new washe and plaister their houses w^th in and without w^ch they strike out in squares like free stone. All y^e streete in w^ch this mayor Elect’s house, is very exact in beautifying themselves and hanging up flaggs y^e Coull^rs of their Companyes, and dress up pageants and there are playes and all sorts of show that day—in Little what is done at y^e Lord major of London show. Then they have a great feast w^th fine flaggs and scenes hung out, musick and danceing. I was in y^e hall they keep their feast in and saw some of their preparations: for that day being about a fortnight to it. The town is a mile and a halfe from y^e North to y^e South gate. Just by one of y^e Churches there is a wall made of flints that are headed very finely and Cut so exactly square and Even to shutt in one to another that y^e whole wall is made without Cement at all they say, but it appears to be very little if any morter; it Looks well, very smooth shineing and black.

A great many descenters are in this Citty, the Gentlewoman that was my acquaintance there dyed 10 dayes before I came thither so I made no great stay there but to see about y^e town.

Thence I went to Windham a Little market town 5 miles, mostly on a Causey y^e Country being Low and moorish, and y^e Road on y^e Causey was in many places full of holes tho’ its secured by a barr at which passengers pay a penny a horse in order to the mending y^e way, for all about is not to be Rode on Unless its a very dry summer. Thence we went mostly through Lanes where you meete y^e ordinary people knitting 4 or 5 in a Company under the hedges. To Attlborough, 5 mile more to a Little village, still finding the Country full of spinners and Knitters: thence to Thetford 6 miles more, w^ch was formerly a large place but now much decay’d and the ruines only shews it dimentions. There is a very high hill quite round stands up on one side of it and Can scarcely be ascended so steep. Here I Lay, w^ch is still 123in Norfolk. Next day I went to Euston Hall w^ch was y^e Lord arlingtons and by his only daughters marriage w^th y^e Duke of Grafton is his sons by her. Its two mile from thetford, it stands in a Large parke 6 miles about. Y^e house is a Roman H of brick: 4 towers w^th balls on them; the windows are Low and not sashes Else y^e roomes are of a good size and height, a good stair case full of good pictures, a Long gallery hung w^th pictures at Length, on y^e one side the Royal family from K: Henry y^e 7^th by y^e Scottish race, his Eldest daughter down to y^e present King William and his queen Mary. The other side are forreign princes from y^e Emperour of Moroccoe, y^e Northern and Southern princes and Emperour of Germany. There is a square in y^e middle where stands a billiard table, hung w^th outlandish pictures of Heroes; there is Count Egmint and Horn &c &c, but y^e End of y^e Roome is y^e Duke and Dutchess of Grafton’s picture at length. Thence I enter’d into dineing and drawing roome and bed Chambers of a very good size and good fret work on y^e Cieling: in one of the roomes was y^e Dutchess of Cleavelands picture in a sultaness dress, the Duke of Grafton being King Charles y^e seconds base son by her. There was also another picture of y^e Royal family. K Charles y^e firsts 5 Children altogether. I have often seen 3 w^ch was K: Charles y^e second, K: James and y^e Princess of Orange; but here was also y^e Lady Elizabeth and y^e Duke of Glocester a Little Infant on a pillow. In another place there is the queen mothers picture the Lady Henrietta drawn Large. There is a fine hall and parlour below pav’d w^th free stone. There are good gardens w^th fountaines and some stone statutes, a Cannall by y^e side, a Large Court at y^e Entrance w^th 3 Iron barr gates w^ch open to y^e ffront, divided w^th stone pillars and balls. Y^e Court w^th out is walled round and y^e wall is Carry’d a great Length round y^e back yards. Within this is another Court w^th Iron spike pallasadoes divided Every 2 or 3 yards by little stone pillars with balls. There are severall Rows of trees runs of a great length thro’ the parke a visto to y^e front of y^e house, w^ch lookes nobly tho’ not just of y^e new modell’d way of building. At y^e back gate 124I crossed over y^e river Waveney w^ch is y^e division of y^e two County’s and enter’d Suffolk and pass’d over perfect downs, Champion Country just like Salisbery plaine; and y^e winds have a pretty power here and blows strongly in y^e winter not well to be Endured.

So to S^t Edmundsbery 8 mile, but as has been often observ’d before, the miles are very long. I pass’d by two or 3 Little villages, and about 2 mile off there is y^e town of St Edm^ds Bury w^ch appeares standing on a great hill, y^e towers and buildings Look so Compact and well together w^th the trees and gardens thick about it y^e prospect was wonderfully pleasant. A mile off by a little village I descended a hill which made y^e prospect of y^e town still in view and much to advantage, its but two parishes. Y^e market Cross has a dyal and Lanthorn on y^e top, and there being another house pretty Close to it high built w^th such a tower and lanthorn also, w^th y^e two Churches towers and some other buildings pretty good, made it appear nobly at a distance. This high house is an apothecarys—at least 60 stepps up from y^e ground and gives a pleaseing prospect of ye whole town. Severall streetes but no good buildings Except this, the rest are great old houses of timber and mostly of y^e old forme of y^e Country w^ch are long peaked roofes of tileing. This house is the new mode of building; 4 roomes of a floore pretty sizeable and high, well furnish’d, a drawing roome and Chamber full of China and a damaske bed Embroyder’d: 2 other Roomes, Camlet and Mohaire beds; a pretty deale of plaite in his wives Chambers and parlours below, and a large shop. He is esteem’d a very Rich man. He shewed me a Curiosity of an Herball all written out w^th Every sort of tree and herb dryed and Cut out and pasted on the Leaves; it was a doctor of Physicks work that left it him a Legacy at his Death, it was a fine thing and would have delighted me severall dayes but I was passant. There was two streetes were broad and very Long, out of w^ch ran a Cross 5 or 6 streetes more w^ch are as good as in most Country towns—they are well pitch’d w^th small stones. There are many descenters in y^e town—4 meeteing places 125w^th y^e Quakers and anabaptists. There is only the ruines of y^e abby walls and the fine gate at the Entrance that remaines—stone, well Carv’d. It seemes to be a thriveing Industrious town; 4 gates in it.

There are a great deale of Gentry w^ch Lives in y^e town, tho’ there are no good houses but w^ch are old and rambling ones. They are in that they Call the green, a space by y^e Churches w^ch are pretty near together. They are pretty Large but nothing Curious in them—stone buildings—no monuments worth notice. They keep them very Clean and neate and have a moveable scaffold to Clean the roofe and windows and walls. Its a very dear place, so much Company Living in the town makes provision scarce and dear: however its a good Excuse to raise the Reckoning on strangers.

Thence I went to admiral Russells who is now Lord orfford, a long 10 mile, and Loseing my way made it 12 mile; its pretty good way. I passed by a village or two, and in a mile of Lord orffords house I Enter Cambridgeshire, w^ch stands 3 mile from New market. You Ride in sight of New market heath where the Races are—its good Road; here are severall good gardens well kept good gravell and green walks w^th fine greens and flowers, walled in and all the outhouses very handsome. A Coach yard and stables in the middle of w^ch is a Large gate into y^e ground, and built over w^th a high lanthorn where hangs the Clock and bell: this stands higher than y^e house like a tower; y^e house being a flatt Roofe leaded and railed round full of Chimneys, but this tower I saw 10 mile off. All y^e out offices built round a Court very handsome. The hall is very noble paved w^th free stone, a squaire of black marble at Each Corner of y^e freestone: there are two fine white marble tables veined w^th bleu; its wanscoated w^th wall nut tree, the pannells and Rims round w^th mulbery tree y^t is a Lemon Coullour, and y^e moldings beyond it round are of a sweete outlandish wood not much differing from Cedar but of a finer Graine, the Chaires are all the same: its hung w^th pictures att full proportion of y^e Royal family all in their Coronation Robes, from Charles the first to his 126Majesty w^th y^e Queen also, and at the End is Prince George and Princess Ann in their Robes of Crimson velvet and Dukes Coronet as Duke and Dutchess of Cumberland. The whole house is finely furnish’d w^th differing Coull^d Damaske and velvets, some ffigured and others plaine, at Least 6 or 7 in all Richly made up after a new mode. In y^e best drawing roome was a very Rich hanging gold and silver and a Little scarlet, mostly tissue and brocade of gold and silver and border of green damaske round it; y^e window Curtain y^e same green damaske round it y^e window Curtain y^e same green damaske, and doore Curtains. There was no Looking-glass but on y^e Chimney piece and just opposite in y^e place a Looking glass used to be was 4 pannells of glass in Length and 3 in breadth set together in y^e wanscoate. Y^e same was in another drawing roome w^ch was for my Lord. The dining roome had this Looking glass on y^e top peers between the three windows; it was from y^e top to y^e bottom 2 pannells in breadth and 7 in Length so it shews one from top to toe. The roomes were all well wanscoated and hung and there was y^e finest Carv’d wood in fruitages, herbages, gumms, beasts, fowles &c. very thinn and fine all in white wood w^th out paint or varnish. Y^e severall sorts of things thus Carv’d were Exceeding naturall all round. The Chimney pieces and y^e sconces stand on Each side the Chimney, and the glasses in those Chambers where were Loose Looking-glasses, w^ch were w^th fine Carv’d head and frames some of the naturall wood others Gilt, but they were y^e largest Looking-glasses I Ever saw. There was a great flower pott Gilt Each side the Chimney in the dineing Roome for to sett trees in. Y^e great Curiosity of this wood Carving about y^e Doores Chimneys and sconces, together w^th y^e great Looking Glass pannells is much talked of and is y^e finest and most in quantety and numbers thats to be seen any where. There is very fine China and silver things and irons and jarrs and perfume potts of silver. Y^e common Roomes are all new, Convenient and neate with Double doores lined to prevent noises. Y^e Stair Case is wanscoated, very noble, fine Pictures, there is y^e battle at la Hogue a Large sea piece 127w^th an jnscription of y^e admiralls valour when y^e great ship y^e Gunn was burnt and mightily valued by y^e ffrench King.

From thence I went 8 mile to Ely w^ch were as long as the 12 I Came from S^t Edmondsbery, y^e wayes being very deep; its mostly Lanes and Low moorish ground on Each Side deffended by y^e ffendiks w^ch are deep ditches w^th draines. Y^e ffenns are full of water and mudd these also Encompass their grounds, Each mans part 10 or a dozen acres a piece or more, so these dieks are the fences. On Each side they plant willows so there is 2 rows of trees runns round y^e ground w^ch Looks very finely to see a flatt of many miles so planted but it must be ill to Live there. All this while Ely minster is in one’s view at a mile distant you would think, but go, it is a Long 4 miles. A mile distant from y^e town is a Little Hamlet from w^ch I descended from a steep hill and so Cross a bridge over water w^ch Enters into y^e Island of Ely, and so you pass a flatt on a Gravel Causey w^ch way y^e Bishop is at y^e Charge to repaire Else there would be no passing in y^e summer. This is secured by some dikes w^ch surround more grounds as y^e former, full of Rows of trees and willows round them w^ch makes Ely looke finely through those trees, and y^t stands very high. In the winter this Caussey is over flowed and they have no way but boates to pass in. They Cut peate out of some of these grounds. The raines now had fallen so as in some places near y^e Citty y^e Caussey was Covered, and a Remarkable deliverance I had, for my horse Earnest to drinke ran to get more depth of water than y^e Caussey had, was on y^e brinke of one of these dikes, but by a speciall providence w^ch I desire never to forget and allways to be thankfull for, Escaped. Y^e bridge was over the River Linn w^ch Comes from Norfolke and does almost Encompass the jsland of Ely w^ch is 20 mile in bigness, in w^ch are severall Little towns as Wisbech and many others. There is another River that joyns w^th y^e Linn w^ch Compasses this land into an jsland. At this bridge is a gate, but by reason of y^e great raines y^e roades were full of water, even quite to y^e town w^ch you ascend a very steep hill into, but y^e dirtyest place I 128ever saw, not a bitt of pitching in y^e streetes, so its a perfect quagmire y^e whole Citty, only just about y^e palace and Churches the streetes are well enough for breadth, but for want of pitching it seemes only a harbour to breed and nest vermine in of w^ch there is plenty Enough, so that tho’ my Chamber was near 20 Stepps up I had froggs and slow worms and snailes in my Roome, but suppose it was brought up w^th y^e faggotts. But it Cannot but be jnfested w^th all such things being altogether moorish ffenny ground w^ch Lyes Low: it is true were the Least Care taken to pitch their streetes it would make it Looke more properly an habitation for human beings and not a Cage or nest of unclean Creatures. It must needs be very unhealthy tho’ the natives say much to the Contrary w^ch proceeds from Custom and use, otherwise to persons born in up and dry Countryes it must destroy them Like Rotten sheep in Consumptions and Rhums.

The Bishop does not Care to stay long in this place not being for his health; he is the Lord of all the jsland, has the Command and y^e jurisdiction. They have lost their Charter and so are no Corporation but all things are directed by the Bishop and its a shame he does not see it better ordered and y^e buildings and streetes put in a better Condition. They are a slothful people and for little but y^e takeing Care of their Grounds and Cattle w^ch is of vast advantage. Where the yeares prove drye they gaine so much that in Case 6 or 7 wet yeares drown them all over, the one good yeare sufficiently Repaires their loss.

There is a good palace for the Bishop built of stone, but it was unfurnished. There are two Churches; Ely minster is a Curious pile of Building all of stone, the outside full of Carvings and great arches and fine pillars in the front, and the jnside has the greatest variety and neatness in the works. There are two Chappels most Exactly Carved in stone all sorts of figures, Cherubims Gilt and painted in some parts. Y^e Roofe of one Chappell was one Entire stone most delicately Carved, and hung down in great poynts all about y^e Church. The pillars are Carv’d and painted w^th y^e history of y^e bible, 129Especially the new testament and description of Christs miracles. The Lanthorn in y^e quire is vastly high and delicately painted and fine Carv’d worke all of wood, in it the bells used to be hung, five, the dimention of y^e biggest was so much when they rung them it shooke y^e quire so and y^e Carv’d worke that it was thought unsafe, therefore they were taken down. Its 80 odd steps to the top of y^e Lanthorn and 160 steps round in Compass. There are very good monuments and abundance of niches in the walls where Statues have been; there is one of white marble Laying at length and so Exactly Cut y^t y^e hand lookes Extreamely natural, the sinewes and veines and every turn of y^e fingers so finely done as to appear very proper. There is another that was a Bishop made by Queen Elizabeth whose garments and all are marble and so finely Embroydered Carv’d and painted and gilt and a verge all down before and Round y^e neck w^th y^e ffigures of the apostles done in Embroydery as it were, all marble very fine. There was 4 or 5 more good Marble Statues. There was on one of y^e Pillars y^e shape of y^e seameless Coate w^ch Christ wore. In another place there is a great Red Cross very high on some of y^e arches, and its very dangerous to go or Climbe round, the pillars to it being of a vast height and this used to be as a pennance to y^e people in y^e tyme of popery. There is one Chappell for Confession w^th a Roome and Chaire of State for y^e priest to set to hear y^e people on their knees Confess into his Eare through a hole in y^e wall. This Church has y^e most popish remaines in its walls of any I have seen. There still remaines a Cross over the alter; the Candlesticks are 3 quarters of a y^d high massy silver gilt very heavy. The ffont is one Entire piece of White Marble stemm and foote, the Cover was Carv’d wood w^th y^e image of Ch^sts being baptised by John and the holy Dove Descending on him, all finely Carv’d white wood w^th out any paint or varnish. They Draw up the Cover by a pully and so Let it down again w^ch shutts Close unless against raines then it swells open as it did now and I believe in y^t Citty its usually annoy’d with wet. This Cathedrall was much frequented 130by the priests in K James the Seconds tyme and many of their Relicts washed ffaire to be seen, and y^e woman told me the priest use to shew her where Every thing was, and they hoped quickly to be in possession of it, and made many promises how kind they would be to them their retainers to the Church; but blessed be God y^t put a tymely stop to the protestants utter ruin and y^e hopes of the papists. When I was upon the tower I Could see Cambridg and a great prospect of y^e Country w^ch by reason of y^e great rains just before under water, all the ffenny ground being all on a flatt unless it be one side of the town w^ch is all the high dry grounds, into w^ch they drive up their Cattle to secure them in the wet seasons. There is no tradeing in the town, their maine buissiness and dependance is on draining and fencing their Grounds and breeding and grasseing Cattle. There is a fine gate of stone arch’d Like a Church w^ch is Called the abbey, but no remaines of y^e Abby Left, only as its built into houses for the Doctors and Clergy, within which is the palace for the Bishop which is their temporall as well as spiritual prince or Lord. From this Citty I passed over those higher grounds on w^ch was some good Corn but mostly is for grass for their Cattle. You see many pretty Little towns 4 or 5 in view together 2 or 3 miles distant. I went to Sutton, one of them, 6 miles off the Citty, this was a Little Market town; thence to y^e ffenn banks on y^e top of which I Rode at Least two miles w^th y^e ffenns on both sides w^ch now were mostly under water, a vast tract of such grounds w^ch are divided by the Dikes w^th out trees, as those I observ’d before, and these high banks are made to draine and ffence out y^e water from y^e Lower grounds, and so from one banck to another w^ch are once in many acres of Land 100, so that at length it does bear off the water but in the winter it returns, so as they are forced to watch and be all wayes in repaireing those bancks; and Considering y^e vast allowance yearly for draining those fenns at least 3000^£ an. I wonder they have not perfectly runn off y^e water and so Barracadoed it as not to (?) soe it often overflows it againe as it does in many places; but they are all a lazy sort of people and are afraid to do 131too much. Here I see y^t many swans nests on Little Hillocks of Earth in the wett ground that they Look as if swimming w^th their nests, some were with their young signetts, 3 or 4 in heape w^th their damms hovering over them for their security. This brought me to the Armitage along 8 mile in all from Ely town, and here I Repass’d the River Lin on a wooden Bridge and so went out of y^e jsland of Ely w^ch was in Cambridgshire and Entred into Huntingdonshire.

There was another bridge over a deep place of y^e River under w^ch the boates and barges went, and this bridge was in the water; one must pass thro’ water to it and so beyond it a good way, and y^e Road was so full of holes and quicksands I durst not venture, y^e water Covering them over and a stranger there Cannot Easily Escape y^e danger, tho’ I see the Carryers went y^t way to save the Expense of y^e fferry, but I Rather chose to Ride round and fferry over in a boate 2 pence a horse to a Little town. This river runs along by S^t Ives w^ch was an old monastery and a Rich one. From this fferry its 8 mile to Huntington town; one goes much in sight of y^e River and y^e severall places built on its bancks w^ch Looks well—these are pretty long miles. From Huntington town I went to Stillton 9 mile more, and thence I went to y^e Citty of Peterborough in Lincolnshire w^ch was 5 long miles, the wayes deep and full of Sloughs. It stands very high and to be seen at a great distance y^e towers of y^e minster being all in view—one would think it but a quarter of a mile when you have a mile or two still to it. Y^e whole Citty Looks very well and handsomely built but mostly timber worke: you pass over a Long stone bridg. The Streetes are very clean and neate, well pitch’d and broad as one shall see any where, there is a very spacious market place, a good Cross and town Hall on the top. The Cathedrall is a magnificent building standing in the midst on advanced ground, all stone, y^e walls very neately wrought, the front is in 3 great arches full of Small stone pillars smoothly turn’d and halfe paces as it were in y^e 2 side arches, the head is w^th no high tower but 5 Little ones, 3 of w^ch in the 132middle are higher and bigger than the other; between Each are 3 peakes Like great Canteliver windows but all finely Carv’d in stone. Ye middle arch is the Entrance w^ch is Exceeding Lofty, as is the Roofe of y^e whole, and so well painted that it appears to be hollow Carving, this seems to be the two remarkable things in y^e whole. Its a spacious place, but one large jsle w^ch is in y^e middle Leading up to y^e quire, where I observed they put y^e seate of any of their deceased dignatorys of y^e Church in Black w^th an Escutcheon: here was one, so now here was y^e Statue of y^e person y^t was last abbott and first Bishop of y^e place; there was also y^e 2 monuments of 2 queens, y^t of Catherine of Spain being Harry y^e 8^ths queen, and also the statute of y^e queen Mary of Scotts that was both beheaded and buried here, and there is also y^e picture of an old man w^th y^e Inscription of y^e whole matter, w^ch was y^e Sexton and dugg both their graves. Here is a pallace for y^e Bishop, of stone Building very neate, and y^e Doctors houses, all in a space Called the Colledg—very neate but nothing Curious. The river Linn washes the town almost round; it Looks like a very jndustrious thriveing town—spinning and knitting amongst y^e ordinary people.

I went thence to Wansford and passed by M^rs S^t Johns house w^ch stands on a hill a mile from y^e town in a fine parke. There was no gate to Peterborough town and as I pass’d y^e Road I saw upon y^e walls of y^e ordinary peoples houses and walls of their out houses, y^e Cow dung plaister’d up to drie in Cakes w^ch they use for fireing, its a very offensive fewell, but y^e Country people use Little Else in these parts. Wansford is 5 mile from Peterborough, where I passed over the Bridge w^ch Entred me into Northhamptonshire, the town being part in that shire w^ch is towards London, y^e other in Lincolnshire w^ch a mile or two farther joyns w^th Rutlandshire at Stamford, w^ch town stands in y^e 3 Countyes, where I Lay at “y^e Swan in Wansford in England,” being a jest on a man makeing hay fell a sleep on a heap of it, and a great storme washed y^e Hay and man into y^e River and Carry’d him to y^e Bridge, where he awoke 133and knew not where he was, Called to y^e people in y^e grounds and told them he liv’d in a place Called Wansford in England w^ch goes for a jest on y^e men of Wansford to this Day.

Thence I went to Durant 5 miles and passed over a very good stone bridge. Here we are neare y^e quarry’s of stone, and all y^e houses and walls are built of stone as in Glocestershire. This River and bridge Enter’d me into Leicestershire w^ch is a very Rich Country—Red land, good Corne of all sorts and grass, both fields and jnclosures. You see a great way upon their hills y^e bottoms full of Enclosures, woods and different sort of manureing and Herbage, amongst w^ch are placed many little towns w^ch gives great pleasure of y^e travellers to view. Y^e miles are long but hither its pretty hard good way; to Coppingham 5 mile more w^ch is a neate market town. Satturday is their market w^ch is very good affording great quantetyes of Corn, Leather garne and Cattle; such a Concourse of people y^t my Landlord told me he used to have 100 horse set up at his jnn, and there were many publick houses. Here you see very Large fine sheep and very good land, but very deep bad roads. From hence to Leister w^ch they Call but 13 miles, but y^e longest 13 I ever went and y^e most tiresome being full of sloughs, y^t I was near 11 hours going but 25 mile, as they Reckon it, between Wansford and Leicester town—a footman Could have gone much faster than I Could Ride. Their fewell here is as I said but Cowdung or Coale w^ch they are supplyed with out of Warwickshire. Leicester town stands on the Side of a little riseing Ground, tho’ at a distance from y^e adjacent hills it Looks Low, but its a good prospect. It has 4 gates, y^e streetes are pretty Large and well pitch’d, there are five parishes; the Market place is a Large space very handsome w^th a good Market Cross and town hall. Y^e river Sow w^ch runs into y^e river Reeke and both Empts themselves into y^e Trent. Trent to y^e Bow Bridge w^ch is one arch over into y^e Priory, w^ch King Rich^d y^e third pass’d over out of y^e Priory when he went to fight in Bosworth field w^th King Henry the seventh, but the stone he struck his heele at and against, w^th w^ch his head was 134struck at his return when brought athwart the horse Dead, I Could not see it, being removed, but I saw a piece of his tombstone he Lay in, w^ch was Cut out in exact form for his body to Lye in; y^t remains to be seen at y^e Greyhound in Leaster but is partly broken. There I saw a piece of y^e jury wall as its Called being in arches and was a place where the Jews burnt their sacrifices.

There are two Hospitalls, one for old men y^e other women 24 in number; they are allowed 2^s : 8^d p^r weeke, Candle, fewell oatmeale, butter and salt. I saw the Library w^ch is pretty large, there was two Large Divinity Books the arch-Bishop gave them lately, and the names of all their Benefactors; there was one book all written hand by a scribe before printing was found out, it was a fine vellum; and there was another Book of y^e New Testament in Chineaze Language and Characteur. Y^e town is old timber building Except one or two of Brick. There is Indeed that they Call y^e Newark w^ch is Encompass’d w^th a wall of a good thickness and two great gates w^th towers as the town gates are, in w^ch they keep their arms and amunition. Y^e walls now are only to secure gardens that are made of y^e ruin’d places that were buildings of strength. In this Newark w^ch is a large space of ground are severall good houses some of stone and Brick In which some Lawyers Live ffrank; there is also a new pile of Building all of Brick w^ch is the Guild Hall where y^e assizes are kept twice in y^e yeare and y^e session quarterly.

S^t Martins Church w^ch is one of y^e biggest—there is none very big and none fine—but here I saw Hyricks tomb who was major of y^e town and was married to one wife 52 years in all, w^ch tyme he buried neither man woman or Child tho’ most tymes he had 20 in his family, his age was 79 and his widdow 97 at her death, she saw 142 of her posterity together. They have a water-house and a water mill to turn y^e water in deep Leaden tubbs or Cisterns for their use: there are wells in some streetes to draw water by a hand wheele for y^e Common use of the town.

The major and alderman goes about in procession on Holy Thursday which was y^e day I was there. Here are a 135great many descenters in this town. This Country as I s^d was all Rich deep land, and they plough their land all w^th ploughs w^th out wheeles as they do in Oxfordshire and other deep lands. From thence I passed to Bosworth 8 miles, and went by a Gentlemans house and thro’ a little parke where the deer were very tame, and passed through Bosworth and over y^e ground where was y^e battle between King Richard y^t Lost his Life by y^e hand of y^e Earle of Richmond afterwards King Henry y^e Seventh, who was Crown’d in this Bosworth field w^th y^e Crown taken off from King Richards head, who being dead was Ignominiously Cast aCross a horse and Carried to Leicester and buried there as a just judgm^t of God for Killing his two nephews and reigning in their stead.

This is a great flatt full of good Enclosures. Near this is Narsby where was y^e great battle fought between King Charles y^e First and y^e parliam^t of England. From thence I went to Fallmouth 7 miles more and so into Warwickshire over a bridge. This is a little market town; thence 3 miles more to Tamworth a neate town built of Brick and mostly new; in sight at its approach it look’d like Litchfield but not a quarter so big a market town, it stands halfe in Warwickshire and halfe in Staffordshire, and so to Litchfield over a large stone bridg that Crosses y^e Tamworth river that gives name to y^e town. To Litchfield is 5 mile more all very good way mostly Gravel; I went it in an hour. This side Entring y^e town I Came by a Large good Almshouse w^ch I saw not before. They have in this town a Custome at Whitsontide y^e Monday and Tuesday Call’d y^e green Bower feast, by which they hold their Charter. The Bailiff and Sheriff assist at y^e Cerimony of dressing up Baby’s w^th garlands of flowers and Carry it in procession through all y^e streetes, and then assemble themselves at y^e Market place and so go on in a solemn procession through the great streete to a hill beyond y^e town where is a Large Bower made w^th greens in w^ch they have their feast. Many lesser Bowers they make about for Conveniency of y^e Whole Company and for selling fruite Sweetemeetes and Gingerbread w^ch is a Chief Entertainment.

136 Thence I went to Woolsely 7 mile farther, to S^r Charles Woolsley where I staid 6 weekes it being my aunt his Lady who Engaged my stay. His seate stands very finely by y^e river Trent; there is also a moate almost round ye house. Y^e house is old timble building, only a Large parlour and noble stair Case w^th handsome Chambers S^r Charles has new built. It is built round a Court w^th a gate house w^ch Leads to y^e outward Court that has a paved walke, broad stone y^e same as y^e first Court is paved with.

There are green spaces and a fine green banck w^th box or philteroy hedge Cut round. There are very good gardens abundance of fruite of all sorts and y^e ffinest dwarfe trees I ever saw, so thick like a hedge and a huge Compass Every single tree, and very full of fruite of apples, pears and Cherries; there are fine flowers, Heber roses white and yellow; there was a fine Sena trees y^t bears a great Branch of yellow fflowers. Y^e ground Lyes all well about y^e house and a fine park by the End of it, part of w^ch is on a high hill y^e side of w^ch the deer sport themselves, w^ch looks just on y^e house and is wonderfull pleasant: its a Large parke 6 miles round full of stately woods and replenish’d w^th red and fallow deer, one part of it is pretty full of Billberryes w^ch thrive under y^e shade of y^e oakes, its a black berry as big as a large pea and are Ripe about Harvest. There is a very ill Custome amongst them now not to be broken, when they are Ripe. The Country Comes and makes Boothes and a sort of faire y^e outside of y^e parke, and so gather y^e berries and sell y^m about y^e Country. The greenes they Call Wissums and on these wissums the Deer Brouse in y^e winter and on holly of which there is great quantetys. In Kankwood just by there is also great quantety’s of fferne w^ch tho’ it over runs their ground and so spoiles y^e grass where its much, yet y^e usefullness of it renders it necessary to be preserv’d; when it is at its maturity w^ch happens just before harvest or hay tyme, y^e whole Country are Employ’d in Cutting it up and burning it in heapes for y^e sake of y^e ashes w^ch they make fine and Rowle them up in Balls and so sell them or use them all y^e year for washing and scouring, and send much up to 137London, y^e ashe balls being Easily sent about, without w^ch they would have no ashes in the Country for such uses; for their fewell is altogether Coales w^ch Indeed are very good and plenty, you might have a load for 3 or 4 shillings brought home y^t would serve a poore mans familly y^e winter. Its in great pieces and so Cloven burns light so as the poorer sort works by it and so it serves for heate and light: its very shineing Coale all about this Country tho’ they Complaine they have lost y^e vein of the best sort w^ch they Call Channell Coale and is y^e sort they have still in Wales and Lancashire w^ch burnt much Lighter and less waste, but this I thought to be very good, no better than it. I have in London given 40^s for such a Load.

In this parke is severall ponds w^ch affords good ffish, as does y^e moate and y^e Trent as trout, Eeles, tench, perch &c, the Largest perch I ever saw just Caught and dress’d immediately w^ch Eates in perfection. Y^e hill in y^e parck Called Hartshill is so high that from y^e top of it you see near 20 miles round, and shews all y^e Country w^ch in this part of Staffordshire is full of woods and jnclosures and good land, Except y^e Kanck-wood w^ch is but a barren heath ground, but good wood—its fine for Hawking in y^e heath. Its full of little Brookes and Rivulets w^ch abounds with Crawfish and they were the sweetest and Largest I have seen any where. From hence to Stafford town is 5 mile—you go by y^e banck of y^e Trent most of y^e way and passing over two Rivers on stone bridges, Called y^e Sore and the Pink w^ch both Empt themselves into y^e Trent and so Enter y^e town through a gate. Its an old built town, timber and plaister pretty much, in Long peaked Rooffes of tileing; 3 gates to the town—there was another w^ch Leads to the Castle w^ch now is ruinated, and only remaines on a hill the fortification trenches y^t are grown over w^th green. Y^e streetes are pretty Large and well pitched; a broad space for y^e market place Wherein is a good Market house on stone pillars w^th a handsome town hall over it—some of the houses are pretty good. This Country is much for Entertainments, in every house you must Eate and drinke.

138 From thence back to Woolsley againe 5 miles, from thence to Heywood parke w^ch was 2 mile where Lived a Daughter of my aunt Woolsley—marryed M^r Hedgewood—a little neate box they Live in.

From thence back againe 2 miles. To the Kank wood is pleasant Rideing, its 20 mile long belongs to y^e Lord Paget, there are 4 lodges; in it a great deale of wood and deer and goates. I went to Ffurnes Coppice w^ch is 4 mile—on it a fine Covert of tall trees on a hill and a mile farther was a fine wood Called Hedgford; Poole a quarter of a mile long full of good fish; thence home 5 mile. Another day I went to Stiles Coppice 3 mile off w^ch is on a high hill and a fine tufft of trees, it Looks but Little at a distance but is a fine Covert for y^e sheep and Cattle: I went quite round it from whence Could see y^e Country a good distance and see into 7 Countys together, Warwickshire, Leicestershire Glocestershire Derbyshire Staffordshire Shropshire and Cheshire; so home againe by Ridgly a mile aboute so it was 4 mile.

Another day I went to Boudezworth the Lord Pagets house 4 mile off, and passed by y^e Coale pitts where they were digging: they draw up the Coale in baskets with a Little wheele or Windlass like a well—its very good.

Lord Paget’s house is old Brick built, y^e ffront is uniforme and very handsome with towers, but there is no good roome but a Long gallery thats worth seeing: its a fine parke; just by it is a high hill on w^ch is the remaines of an old ffortification, they Call it the Castle wall, its of very great antiquity but now grown over w^th grass; from thence the prospect of the Country is great. The parke is of Large Extent and some of those pitts are in it—y^e Channell Coales, but y^e water has over flow’d some of them and spoyl’d their digging; thence I went home againe 4 miles—Another day I went to Panckeridge race over y^e Kankwood 7 mile, where were most of y^e Gentlemen and Ladies of the Country, severall Coaches and six horses, Indeed y^e miles are Long and y^e wayes bad in the winter that obliges them to drive more horses; these were persons of good Estates also. There appear’d only one horse to run for y^e plaite which 139was a salver; thence to Woolesley again 7 mile more. Its a fine Country here about for Rideing one has a pleaseing prospect Every way Especially on any advanc’d ground.

I went to Brinsy Coppice w^ch was 4 mile, thence Could see towards Shrewsbury and y^e high hill the Reekee, and in a Cleare day Could see something of Chester, and so home againe 4 mile more. Another day I went upon Jtching hill 1 mile w^ch is a sort of Rock, but y^e stone is of a Red Coullour and looks Like a sandy stone by its Moldring, but they tell me when its wrought in a wall and have been season’d w^th y^e weather it grows very hard and serviceable in building. From thence I went a Compass round to Heywood parke 4 mile off and yⁿ home againe 2 miles; and another day I went the same tour about to Heywood parke and back w^ch was 6 mile more. While I stay’d at Woolsley I went directly to Heywood parke above what I mentioned before and returned home w^ch was in all 8 miles, and another day I went to a poole in the Kanckwood 3 mile to ffish and from thence to Heywood parke thro’ a very fine Coppice of trees on a hanging brow of a hill w^ch Look’d very fine, and so home 2 mile more. I name y^e number of miles I went only to see y^e whole accō of miles I travell’d this yeare. These Coppices there are many of them w^ch is a good shelter for y^e Cattle.

Another journey to Darby town from Woolsley by Colton and Blithbery 3 mile, thence to Yoxwell 3 mile over Nedwood forest of y^e King, w^ch is 40 mile in Extent, all y^e way you have a fine prospect of y^e Country, Enclosed good lands, admirable Corne of all sorts, good grass: I went in sight of Tetbery Castle w^ch is y^e Kings—a great ffortification, but all decay’d—here 4 mile more and there it was that I pass y^e river Dove on a stone Bridge Called Dovebridge w^ch Enters me into Darbyshire and thence its 8 mile more to Darby town.

Darby town Lies down in a bottom built all of brick or for y^e most part; in it are 5 Churches built of stone y^e biggest of w^ch I was in, y^e tower was finely Carv’d full of niches and Pedistals where on Statues had been set, but nothing worth notice in y^e jnside except a monument w^ch 140was over y^e vault of y^e Duke of Devonshire, on w^ch stands 2 Effigees at length all of white marble y^e Earle and his Countess of Devonshire w^th an arch or Cannopy of Stone over their heads; this is rail’d in w^th Iron gates. There is also another statue of marble painted and Gilded lying at length w^ch is also railed in. Y^e River Derwent runns by the town and turns many mills, and y^e water Engine w^ch turns y^e water into y^e pipes that serves y^e town, y^e same wheele grinds also, but they do it for a half penny a strike w^ch is the same measure as our Bushill. At this Engine they Can grind if its never so high a flood, w^ch hinders all y^e other from working at y^e flood, they are quite Choaked up, but this they Can set higher or lower just as the water is. There are bays w^ch they make w^th stones to keep the water to run to y^e mill and thence it falls againe into y^e Derwent; there is also a fine stone Conduit in the Market place, w^ch is very spacious, well pitch’d a good Market Cross. This is a dear place for strangers notwithstanding y^e plentyfullness of all provision. My Dinner Cost me 5^s and 8^d, only 2 servant men w^th me and I had but a shoulder of mutton and bread and beer.

Here they mak great quantetys of gloves, I did not observe or Learn any other trade or Manufacture, they had only shops of all sorts of things. They Carry much of their Carriages on sledges to secure their pitching in the streetes. Thence I went to Chartly 6 mile Lord Fferrers, and thence Bradby Lord Chesterfields, and passed by a fine parke of some Gentlemans in w^ch was a summer house on y^e side of y^e hill amongst fine tall trees w^ch Look’d very well, and on y^e Right hand I turned up to y^e Earle of Chesterfields parke full of fine Rows of trees running up y^e avenue to y^e house. One Enters an outward Court and drives round a Little pond like a ditch all pav’d w^th stone, or great basin of stone, in which were two swans swimming about in y^t little Compass; y^e gates are all jron barrs and the whole front of y^e house open jron pallasadoe spikes in a Compass round Like a half moone. Answerable to y^t beyond y^e stable yard is another such a demy Circle of open pallasadoe, y^t lets you out to y^e prospect of y^e grounds 141beyond, full of regular Rows of trees. Y^e house has a visto quite thro’ by a glass bellcony door into y^e gardens, and so to y^e parke beyond on y^t side. Y^e front have something surpriseing in it; its all of free stone w^ch is dipt in oyle that adds a varnish to its Lustre as well as security to its foundation. Y^e Roofe is not flatt as our Modern buildings so y^e garret windows Come out on y^e tileing w^ch is all flatt None of y^e windows are sashes which in my opinion is y^e only thing it wants to render it a Compleate building: its halfe a roman H. There is an ascent of 5 or 6 steps all stone to y^e gates, and so you proceed on a broad paved walke w^ch is divided by a Cross walke of y^e same towards y^e upper End; thence y^e ascent by as many more stone steps into a noble hall y^t has a Row of white marble pillars at y^e upper End. Y^e middle a Little roome w^th a marble table in the middle w^ch is y^e Balcony into y^e Garden, but y^ts without Steps down into y^e Garden. From these Rows of Pillars on y^e Right hand runs a passage to y^e Servants roome and all the offices, and at y^e End is a Chappell w^ch was very neate. Over y^e alter is a large ovall of Glass of y^e sort of Private glass used in Windows to obscure y^e Sight from without, but hinders not y^e Light w^th inside; this Look’d pretty as being particular and uncomon.

There was a little organ and Closets for y^e Lord and Ladies to sitt in. From y^e hall on the left hand Enters into a Large roome w^th a billiard table, from thence into a Large parlour and 2 drawing-roomes,—there was a good dineing roome. Above, y^e drawing Roome had Company in it, y^e Earle having just marry’d his Eldest daughter Lady Mary to one M^r Cooke a Gentleman of a good Estate hard by, so there was Company to wishe her joy; but I was in severall bed Chambers, one had a Crimson damaske bed, y^e other Crimson velvet set upon halfe paces: this best was y^e bride Chamber w^ch used to be Call’d y^e Silver roome where y^e stands, table, and fire utensills were all massy silver, but when plaite was in nomination to pay a tax, y^e Earle of Chesterfield sold it all and y^e plaite of y^e house, so that when y^e table was spread I saw only spoones, salts and forks and y^e side board plaite, noe plaites or dishes and but few salvers. 142Ye pictures was all burnt by a fire and so there are only bare walls. One Roome was painted over head—y^e others frettwork, but y^t w^ch is most admired, and justly so to be by all persons, and Excite their Curiosity to Come and see is y^e gardens and waterworks. Out of y^e Billiard Roome y^e first was with Gravell walks, and a large fountaine in the middle with flower potts and Greens set Round y^e Brimm of y^e fountaines that are paved w^th stone. You see but one garden at a tyme. The Pipes in y^e fountaines play very finely, some of a great height, some fflushes y^e water about; then you Come to a descent of severall steps w^ch discovers anoth^r fine garden w^th fountaines playing through pipes besett on y^e branches w^th all sort of Greens and flower trees, dwarfe honeysuckles in a Round tuff growing upright, and all sorts of flower trees and greens finely Cutt and Exactly kept. In one garden there are 3 fountaines wherein stands great statues; Each side on their pedistalls is a dial one for y^e Sun y^e other a Clock w^ch by y^e water worke is moved and strikes y^e hours, and Chimes y^e quarters, and when they please play Lilibolaro on y^e Chimes: all this I heard when I was there. On one side of this garden is a half Compass w^th a breast wall on w^ch are high jron pallisadoes divided with severall Pillars, stone with Images on their tops about 2 yards distance; this opens to view y^e parke and a sort of Cannall or pond w^ch is in it of a good bigness. Beyond this Garden is a Row of orange and Lemon trees set in y^e ground, of a man’s height and pretty big, full of flowers and some Large fruit almost Ripe: this has a pent house over it w^ch is Cover’d up very Close in the winter. This Leads on to a great wilderness and Just by it is another Square w^th a fountaine whose brim is deck’d with flower potts full of flowers and all sorts of greens; on Either side is 2 or 3 rows of orange and Lemon trees in boxes one below another in growth.

Just against this is a wall Cover’d over w^th Lawrell finely Cutt, and also in y^e middle is an arch, and on Either side stone staires ascends it w^ch terminate in a sort of half pace all Cover’d over w^th Lawrell, and this Enters a doore into another Garden through a little garden house. This also 143has a fine fountaine Like y^e others, only as most of y^e others was green walks this was Gravell, so was the garden on y^e Right side of y^e house. Ye front Garden w^ch has y^e Largest fountaine has also a fine Green house and very fine flowers, and y^e beds and borders are Cut in severall formes; y^e Greens are very fine and y^e hedges Cutt in severall formes; there was one tree not much unlike y^e Cyprus green but y^e branches were more spread and of a Little yellower green, y^e Barke of y^e Limbs yellow—it was y^e Cedar of Lebonus. There was also fine strip’d stocks, Double Like a Rose. There was a Large Ewe tree in y^e middle of one Garden Cut in forms, fine ffirrs and Cyprus and ffilleroy of w^ch some was striped Like silver, white, others yellow Like Gold, w^ch gave them their different names, and fine gilded and striped Hollys.

There was one green in a pott Call’d S^t John y^e baptists herb, it was full of many Leaves and y^e Coullour not much unlike the green they Call Solomons Seale but longer and bigger Leaves; its an annual plant. Here just by y^e wilderness is y^e tulip tree w^ch runns up of a great height and y^e flower is on y^e top; it flowers in August. There is a great avery of Birds w^ch stands Like a sumer house open; there is also many Close averys of Birds and severall Green shady walks and Close arbours. There are very fine woodbines grows like tuffs all in flower Red and white. There is some of y^e fountaines that have figures in them that throws up water a greate height—a Cascade of water.

Then I returned into y^e hall and so into a Coole roome in w^ch was a fountaine where I dranke a Glass of wine and so proceeded. This was 3 miles from Chartry, thence through a fine visto or Glide of trees w^ch runs along y^e parke and so to Burton on y^e Trent 2 long miles. This is a pretty large town; here is a very long stone bridge over y^e Trent: the Streetes are very well pitch’d and some very broad.

Thence over Nedwood fforest 6 mile, and thence to Yoxsell, w^ch is 6 mile more to Woolsley and they are all Long miles; then I went againe to Stafford town 5 miles and from thence to Jnstree M^r Thetwins—its bad way. 144You go by S^t Thomas’s w^ch was some old abbey—its still a good house.

Going along y^e side of y^e hill gives a great view of y^e Country that is mostly jnclosures we passed between two parkes, y^e one is Lord astons, and goe in sight of Tixall hall w^ch is a good house and Looks handsomely of stone building: the other was M^r Thetwins parke w^ch has fine Rows of trees—ffirrs Scots and Noroway and y^e picanther—the ffront lookes nobly. Noe flatt Roofed houses in this Country but much in windows. Two Large bow windows on Each side runns up y^e whole building, y^e middle the same besides much flatt window between, so that y^e whole is Little besides window. Its built brick and stone, the part to y^e garden ward is new building of y^e new fashion and sash windows. Y^e Court is 2 or 5 stepps up w^th open jron pallasadoes y^e breadth of y^e house and a broad paved walk w^ch Leads up to y^e doore in the Middle. Y^e visto is quite through y^e house to y^e gardens and through a long walke of trees of a mile through the parke to a Lodge or summer house at y^e End, w^ch Lookes very finely, it being a Riseing ground up to y^e parke. There is a Crosse paved walke in y^e Court w^ch Leads to a little house on Each End like summer houses, w^th towers and balls on y^e top; y^e one Leads through to y^e Churchyard w^ch is planted w^th Rows of Ewe trees very uniforme and Cutt neately. Y^e Church is new and very handsome, good frettworke on y^e top, the wood worke well Carv’d, its seates good wanscoate and with locks.

In the Chancell are two monuments of Marble, one all white, y^e other white with a border Black, and with white pillars; the middle at y^e bottom is alabaster. The pillars of y^e Church is made of y^e Red stone w^ch is plenty in this Country and they are all polished over; the ffront is all white marble; stem y^e same veined bleu, y^e foot is black, y^e Cover is wood Carv’d very well. The porch is very high on w^ch is a dyal, it almost breakes ones neck to Looke up at it for y^t y^e tower in w^ch are 5 bells. There is just against this a garden.

On y^e other side the dwelling house w^ch is severall steps 145up it—Gravell walkes full of flowers and greens and a box hedge Cut finely with Little trees, some Cut round, and another hedge of strip’d holly Cut Even and some of Lawrell Cut Even Likewise. Out of this you go into a flower garden divided into knotts, in which were 14 Cyprus trees w^ch were grown up very tall some of them, and kept Cutt Close in four squares down to y^e bottom. Towards y^e top they Enclined to a point or spire. Thence into another garden w^th gravell walkes, and so into a summer house through w^ch you Enter a good Bowling green, w^ch also goes out of another garden, w^ch takes in y^e whole breadth of y^e house and is full of flowers and greens and dwarfe trees and little borders of Severall sorts of greens Cut Even and Close, of tyme, severall sorts and of savin w^ch is another Coullour, and of Lavender Cotten another Coullour, and Rosemary and severall others. From this Bowling green in y^e Middle you descend 18 stepps in a Demi Circle inwards halfe way, then y^e stones are set round and so y^e half pace is, and y^e other stepps are Round turned outward, and y^e Lowest much y^e Largest as was y^e uppermost of y^e first. This leads to a place designed for ponds to keep ffish in but this place will not admitt of any water works altho’ its a deep Dirty Country. They neither have good gravell or marle to make a pond secure to hold water, nor are they near Enough y^e springs, but are forced to be supply’d w^th water by pipes from y^e River trent that is a mile off, and yet the whole place seems a quage, and when one is descended y^e hill this seemes to be the only thing wanting, for just by the Bowling-green is a very fine wilderness with many Large walks of a great Length full of all sorts of trees, scycamores, willows, Hazel, Chesnutts, walnuts, set very thicke and so shorn smooth to y^e top w^ch is left as a tuff or Crown—they are very Lofty in growth w^ch makes y^e Length of a walke Look Nobly. There is also a Row on y^e outside of firrs round Every grove 2 yards or 3 distant—some silver ffirrs—some Norroway—some Scotts and pine trees: these hold their beauty round y^e groves in y^e winter when y^e others Cast their Leaves. This was from Stafford 3 mile and to Woolsley was 1463 mile more through narrow stoney Lanes through great Heywood.

Att Jnstree, M^r Shetwins, I saw a fine pomegranate tree as tall as myself, the Leafe is a long slender Leafe of a yellowish green Edged w^th red and feeles pretty thicke, y^e Blossom is white and very double. There was a terrass walke in one of y^e Gardens that gave y^e full prospect of y^e Country a great way about—its a deep Country—you are going these 3 miles to Woolsley a great while. There was at S^r Charles Woolsly’s some of y^e best good land and some of y^e worst, as is y^e Kankwood, but here y^e Roads are pretty good and hard w^ch makes it pleasant. There is much fine fruite here S^r Charles takeing great delight in his Gardens, I must say I never saw trees so well dress’d and pruned, y^e walls so Equally Cover’d as there. There is severall sorts of strawbery’s but y^e vermillion is y^e finest, very large as any Garden strawbery and of a fine scarlet Coullour, but its a Later sort; there was a pretty almond tree in Bloome y^e flower not unlike a Rosemary flower. From thence I tooke my progress Northward and went from hence to NewCastle under Line, through Stone w^ch was 9 miles, and then to Trentum, and passed by a great house of M^r Leveston Gore, and went on the side of a high hill below which the River Trent rann and turn’d its silver streame forward and backward into s. s w^ch Looked very pleasant Circleing about y^e fine meadows in their flourishing tyme bedecked w^th hay almost Ripe and flowers. 6 mile more to NewCastle under Line where is the fine shineing Channell Coale; so y^e proverb to both y^e New-Castles of bringing Coales to y^m is a needless Labour, one being famous for this Coale thats Cloven and makes white ashes as is this, and y^e NewCastle on y^e Tyne is for y^e sea Coale y^t Cakes and is what is Common and famillier to every smith in all villages. I went to this NewCastle in Staffordshire to see the makeing of y^e fine tea potts. Cups and saucers of y^e fine red Earth in imitation and as Curious as y^t w^ch Comes from China, but was defeated in my design, they Comeing to an End of their Clay they made use of for y^t sort of ware, and therefore was remov’d to some other 147place where they were not settled at their work so Could not see it; therefore I went on to Beteby 6 miles farther and went by a Ruinated Castle y^e walls still remaining Called Healy Castle—this was deep Clay way. This town is halfe in Staffordshire and halfe in Cheshire, one side of y^e streete in y^e one, and y^e other in y^e latter, so y^t they often jest on it in travelling one wheele goes in Staffordshire y^e other wheele in Cheshire.

Here is a great mer or standing water 2 miles Compass—great store of good fish; it belongs to one M^r Egerton: thence I went to Nantwitch 5 long miles. Nantwitch is a pretty large town and well built: here are y^e salt springs of w^ch they make salt and many salterns w^ch were a boyling y^e salt. This is a pretty Rich land; you must travell on a Causey; I went 3 miles on a Causey through much wood. Its from Nantwitch to Chester town 14 long miles, y^e wayes being deep: its much on Enclosures and I passed by severall large pooles of waters, but what I wonder’d at was y^t tho’ this shire is remarkable for a greate deale of greate Cheeses and Dairys I did not see more than 20 or 30 Cowes in a troope feeding, but on Enquiry find y^e Custome of y^e Country to joyn their milking together of a whole village and so make their great Cheeses. West Chester town lies in a bottom and runs a greate length and is pretty big—there are 10 Churches.

The Cathedrall is Large and Lofty, y^e quire well Carv’d, fine tapistry hangings at y^e alter, a good organ: The Bishops pallace is on the Right hand of it and the Doctors houses, all built of Stone. There is a new hall building w^ch is for y^e assize and it stands on great Stone pillars w^ch is to be y^e exchange w^ch will be very Convenient and handsome; the hall is round, its built of Bricke and Stone Coynes, there are Leads all round w^th battlements and in the middle is a tower, there are ballconies on y^e Side and windows quite round y^e Cupillow that shews y^e whole town round. There is another town hall—a long Lofty place, and another by the Side w^ch is Called the Councill Roome both for y^e Major and Aldermen to meete for y^e buissinesse of y^e Corporation. Y^e town is walled all aboute w^th battlem^ts and 148a walke all round pav’d w^th stone, I allmost Encompass’d y^e walls. Ye streetes are of a greate breadth, but there is one thing takes much from their appeareing so and from their beauty, for on each side in most places they have made penthouses so broad set on pillars w^ch persons walk under Covert, and is made up and down steps under which are ware houses. Tho’ a penthouse or pallasadoe be convenient for security from y^e sun or weather and were it no broader than for two to passe one by y^e other it would be well and No dissight to y^e grace of y^e Streetes, but this does darken y^e streetes and hinder y^e Light of y^e houses in many places to y^e streete ward below, indeed in some places were it only before y^e Chiefe persons houses it would be Convenient where its flatt and Even w^th the streetes. The town is mostly timber buildings, the trade and Concourse of people to it is Chiefly from the jntercourse it has with Ireland—most take this passage; and also y^e jntercourse w^th Wales w^ch is parted from it and England by y^e river Dee w^ch washes y^e Castle Walls in w^ch they keep their Stores, but nothing fine in it. The walls and towers seemes in good repaire. At the End of y^e town just by the Castle you Crosse over a very large and Long Bridge over the River Dee w^ch has the tyde Comes up much beyond the town; its 7 mile off y^t it falls into y^e sea, but its very broad below y^e town, when at high tyde is like a very broad sea: there they have a little Dock and build shipps of 200 tunn, I saw some on the stocks.

Cross this River by this Bridge Enters Fflintshire and so Crossed over y^e marches w^ch is hazardous to strangers, therefore M^r W^m Allen—w^ch was y^e major of Chester that time and gave me a very Civil treate being an acquaintance of my Brother S^r Edmund Harrison—so order’d his son and another Gentleman to Ride w^th me to Direct, to Harding w^ch was 5 miles. Just by that was a very fine new built house of Brick and in y^e Exact forme of y^e London Architecture w^ch was this M^r Majors house and good gardens.

Att Harding, where was my Relation D^r Percivalls wife who was Minister of y^t place: his parish was 8 miles in Extent and 2 lordships in it, and y^e ruines of two great 149Castles in it remaines—its good Rich Land here, much on Enclosures and woods.

In a tarresse walke in my Relations garden I could very plainly see Chester and y^e River Dee with all its Washes over the Marsh ground w^ch look’d very finely: here are sands w^ch makes it very difficult for strangers to passe w^th out a guide. From hence my Relation Carry’d me to Holly Well and pass’d thro’ Flint town w^ch is the shire town 5 mile from harding; its a very Ragged place many villages in England are better, y^e houses all thatched and stone walls, but so decay’d that in many places Ready are to tumble down. There was a town hall such a one as it was; it was at a Session tyme wⁿ I was there w^ch shew’d it at its Prime. There is a Castle w^ch still remaines w^th its towers built of stone, its down to y^e water side: from thence to Holy well is 3 mile mostly by y^e water side w^ch is Reckon’d the sea—here I went just in sight of high Lake where were many shipps Rideing along that harbour.

S^t Winfreds Well is built over w^th stone on Pillars Like a Tryumphall arch or tower on y^e gates of a Church, there is a pavem^t of stone w^th in—round 3 sides of y^e well w^ch is joyn’d on y^e fourth side by a great arch of stone w^ch Lies over y^e water y^t runs of from y^e well; its many springs w^ch bubbles up very fast and Lookes Cleane in a Compass w^ch is 8 square walled in w^th stone. In y^e bottom w^ch you see as Clear as Chrystall are 9 stones Layd in an oval on w^ch are dropps of Red Coullour some almost quite Covering the top of y^e stone, w^ch is pretended to be y^e blood of this holy saint whose head was struck off here and so where her body Laid this spring burst forth and remaines till now a very Rapid Current, w^ch runs off from this well under a barre by w^ch there are stone stepps for y^e persons to descend w^ch will bathe themselves in the well, and so they walke along y^e Streame to the other End and then come out, but there is nothing to Shelter them but are Exposed to all the Company that are walking about y^e well and to y^e Little houses and part of y^e Streete w^ch runs along by it but y^e Religeuse are not to mind it, it seemes the saint they do honour to in this place 150must beare them out in all things. They tell of many lameness’s and aches and distempers w^ch are Cured by it, its a Cold water and Cleare and runs off very quick so y^t it would be a pleasant refreshm^t in y^e sumer to washe ones self in it, but its shallow not up to y^e Waste so its not Easye to Dive and washe in, but I thinke I Could not have been persuaded to have gone in unless I might have had Curtains to have drawn about some part of it to have shelter’d from y^e Streete, for y^e wett garments are no Covering to y^e body; but there I saw abundance of y^e devout papists on their Knees all round a well. Poor people are deluded into an jgnorant blind zeale and to be pity’d by us y^t have the advantage of knowing better and ought to be better. There is some stones of a Reddish Coullour in y^e well s^d to be some of S^t Winifred’s blood also, w^ch y^e poore people take out and bring to y^e strangers for Curiosity and Relicts, and also moss about y^e bancks full of great virtue for Every thing. But its a Certaine gaine to y^e poore people—every one gives them something for bringing them moss and y^e stones, but lest they should in length of tyme be quite gather’d up they take Care to replenish it dayly from some mossy hill and so stick it along y^e sides of y^e well—there is good streames runs from it and by meanes of steepe descent runs down and turns mills. They come also to drinke of y^e water w^ch they take up in y^e first square w^ch is walled round and where the springs Rise and they say its of wonder full operation. Y^e taste to me was but like good spring water w^ch w^th wine and sugar and Lemons might make a pleasant Draught after walking amongst those shady trees of w^ch there is a great many and some straight and tall like a grove but not very uniforme. From thence I went back to Harding w^ch is 8 very Long Miles. At Holly well they speake Welsh; the inhabitants go barefoote and bare leg’d—a nasty sort of people. Their meate is very small here, Mutton is noe bigger than Little Lamb, what of it there is was sweete; their wine good being Neare y^e Sea side, and are well provided with ffish—very good Salmon and Eeles and other ffish I had at Harding. This shire is improperly 151Called Fflintshire there being noe flints in all y^e Country. There are great Coale pitts of the Channell Coale thats Cloven huge great pieces: they have great wheeles that are turned w^th horses y^t draw up the water and so draine the Mines w^ch would Else be over flowed so as they Could not dig the Coale; they have also Engines y^t draw up their Coale in sort of baskets Like hand barrows w^ch they wind up like a Bucket in a well, for their mines are dug down through a sort of well and sometymes its pretty Low before they Come to y^e Coales; it makes y^e Road unsafe because of y^e Coale pitts and also from y^e Sloughs and quicksands, all here about being mostly near y^e bancks of y^e water. In this Country are quarrys of Stone, Copper and Iron Mines and salt hills, its a hilly place, very steep descents and great many very high hills, but I went not so farre as Pen Ma Mower but Cross’d y^e river Dee haveing first went two mile by these Coale mines (at least 10) in a place (?) its a thing w^ch holds neer two bushell that is their Basket they draw up w^ch is bought for 6 pence. I forded over y^e Dee when y^e tide was out all upon the sands at Least a mile, w^ch was as smooth as a Die being a few hours left of y^e flood. Y^e sands are here soe Loose y^t the tydes does move them from one place to another at Every flood, y^t the same place one used to ffoard a month or two before is not to be pass’d now, for as it brings the sands in heaps to one place so it leaves others in deep holes w^ch are Cover’d w^th water and Loose sand that would swallow up a horse or Carriages; so I had two Guides to Conduct me over. The Carriages w^ch are used to it and pass Continually at y^e Ebbs of water observes y^e drift of sands and so Escape y^e danger. It was at least a mile I went on y^e sands before I Came to y^e middle of y^e Channell w^ch was pretty deep and with such a Current or tyde w^ch was falling out to sea together w^th y^e wind, the horses feete could scarce stand against it, but it was but narrow just the deep part of the Channell and so soone over. When the tyde is fully out they frequently fford in many places w^ch they marke as the sands fall and Can go near 9 or 10 mile over y^e sands from Chester to Burton or to Flint town almost; but many 152persons that have known the ffoards well y^t have Come a year or halfe a year after, if they venture on their former knowledge have been overwhelm’d in the Ditches made by y^e sands w^ch is deep Enough to swallow up a Coach or waggon; but they Convey their Coales from Wales and any other things by waggon when the tyde is out to Chester and other parts. From Burton w^ch was on y^e side of England the shore, I went to y^e fferry 9 miles to the river Meresy another great River and a perfect sea for 20 mile or more. It Comes out of Lancashire from Warrington and both this and y^e Dee Empts themselves into y^e sea almost together a few Leagues from Leverpoole, w^ch poole is form’d by a poynt of land that runs almost round the Entrance from y^e sea, being narrow and hazardous to strangers to saile in in the winter. Y^e mouth of y^e river by reason of y^e Sands and Rocks is a gate to y^e River; this I ferry’d over and was an hour and halfe in y^e passage, its of great breadth and at low water is so deep and salt as y^e sea almost, tho’ it does not Cast so green a hew on y^e water as ye sea, but else the waves toss and y^e Rocks grate all round it and is as dangerous as y^e sea. Its a sort of Hoy that I ferried over and my horses—y^e boate would have held 100 people.

Leverpoole w^ch is in Lancashire is built just on the river Mersy mostly new built houses of brick and stone after the London fashion; y^e first original was a few fishermens houses and now is grown to a large fine town and but a parish and one Church, tho’ there be 24 streetes in it. There is Indeed a little Chappell and there are a great many dessenters in the town. Its a very Rich trading town, y^e houses of Brick and stone built high and Even that a streete quite through Lookes very handsome—the streetes well pitched. There are abundance of persons you see very well dress’d and of good fashion, y^e streetes are faire and Long, its London in miniature as much as ever I saw anything. There is a very pretty Exchange stands on 8 pillars besides the Corners w^ch are Each Arche pillars all of stone and its railed in, over w^ch is a very handsome town hall—over all is a tower and Cupilow thats so high that from thence one has y^e 153whole view of y^e town and the Country round—in a Clear day you may see y^e Jsle of Man w^ch also was in view from out of Wales at Harding on the high tarrass walke in my Cos’n Percivalls garden.

Thence to Prescote 7 very long miles, but pretty good way, mostly Lanes; there I passed by Nosel the Earle of Darbys house w^ch Looked very nobly w^th many towers and balls on them; it stands amongst tall trees and Lookes like a pleasant grove all about it, its an old house runs a great Compass of ground. Y^e town of Prescote stands on a high hill, a very pretty neate Market town—a Large market place and broad streetes well pitch’d.

Thence to Wiggon, 7 long miles more mostly in Lanes and some hollow wayes and some pretty deep stony way so forced us upon y^e high Causey, but some of y^e way was good w^ch I went pretty fast and yet by reason of the tediousness of y^e miles for length I was 5 hours going that 14 mile; I could have gone 30 miles about London in y^e tyme. There was pretty much woods and Lanes through which I passed, and pass’d by a mer or Lake of water; there are many of these here about, but not going through Ormskerk. I avoided going by the famous Mer Call’d Martin mer that as y^e proverb sayes has parted many a man and his mare—indeed it being neare evening and not getting a Guide I was a little afraid to go that way it being very hazardous for Strangers to passe by it. Some part of y^t mer one M^r Ffleetewood has been at y^e Expence to draine so as to be able to use the ground for tillage, having by trenches and floodgates w^th banks shutt out y^e waters y^t still kept it a marsh and moorish ground, but it was a very great Charge; however it shews by industry and some Expence, if Gentlemen would set about it, Most of y^e waste ground thats now a ffenny Moor and Mostly water might be rendered usefull and in a few yeares answere y^e first great Charge on it. Wiggons is another pretty Market town built of stone and brick: here it is that the fine Channell Coales are in perfection—burns as light as a Candle—set the Coales together w^th some fire and it shall give a snap and burn up light. Of this Coale they make 154Saltcellars, Stand-dishes and many boxes and things w^ch are sent about for Curiositys and sold in London and are often offer’d in the Exchange in Company w^th white or black marble and most people deceived by them w^ch have not been in those Countrys and know it, but such persons discover it and will Call for a Candle to trye them whether marble or Coale: its very finely pollish’d and Lookes much like jett or Ebany wood for w^ch one might Easily take it when in boxes &c &c. I bought some of them for Curiosity sake. 2 mile off Wigon towards Warrington (w^ch was some of my way back againe but for y^e Curiosity’s sake I did,) is the Burning well w^ch burns like brandy; its a little sorry hole in one of y^e grounds 100 yards from y^e Road that Comes from Warrington to Wiggon just by a hedge or banck, its full of dirt and mud almost but the water Continually bubbles up as if it were a pott boyling w^ch is the spring or severall springs in that place; Nevertheless I felt y^e water and it was a Cold Spring. Y^e man w^ch shewed it me, w^th a dish tooke out a good quantety of y^e water and threw away and then w^th a piece of Rush he lighted by a Candle y^t he brought in a lanthorne, he set y^e water in y^e well on fire and it burn’d blewish just like spirits and Continued a good while, but by reason of y^e great raines y^t ffell y^e night before y^e spring was weaker and had not thrown off the raine water, otherwise it used to flame all over y^e well a good height, now it burnt weaker; at last the wind blew out y^e mans Candle and he severall tymes lighted y^e bitt of Rush or splinter of wood by y^e flame y^t burnt in y^e well. This is a little unaccountable; I apprehend its a sort of an unctious matter in y^e Earth and soe through its veines the springs run w^ch Causes it so to burn, for I observ’d when they dug into y^e banche and opened the sort of Clay or mudd, it burnt fiercer and more from y^e well. I returned againe to Wiggon two mile and thence to Preston and passed by S^r John Bradshaws house w^ch stood on y^e declineing of a hill in y^e midst of a fine grove of trees. Severall fine walkes and Rows of trees thereabout; just in the Road on the banck where on the hedge stood was Errected a high stone pillar Carv’d and a ball on y^e top with an jnscription 155Cutt on it shewing the Cause of it, being the monument of an officer that in a fight just there, his horse takeing y^e hedge and Ditch on some distaste he tooke at y^e Gunns and smoake, flung out his sword out of y^e scabbard and flung his Master down on y^e poynt of it w^ch ran him through that he dyed and Lyes buried on y^e Spott.

Preston is reckon’d but 12 mile from Wiggon but they Exceed in Length by farre those y^t I thought long the day before from Leverpoole; its true to avoid the many Mers and marshy places it was a great Compass I tooke, and passed down and up very steep hills, and this way was good Gravell way; but passing by many very Large arches y^t were only single ones but as Large as two great gate wayes, and y^e water I went through y^t ran und^er them was so shallow notwithstanding these were Extreme high arches, I enquired the Meaneing and was inform’d that on great raines those brookes would be swelled to so great a height that unless those arches were so high, noe passing while it were so.

They are but narrow bridges for foote or horse and at such floods they are fforced in many places to boate it till they Come to those arches on the great Bridges w^ch are across their great Rivers; this happens sometymes on sudden great showers for a day or two in y^e summer, but y^e winter is often or mostly soe that there are deep waters so as not Easily Cross’d; but once in 3 or 4 years there is some of those very greate floods I mentioned before, that they are fforced to boate from bridge to bridge w^ch is little Enough then to secure them. I passed by at Least half a dozⁿ of these high single arches besides severall great stone Bridges of 4 or 6 arches which are very high also over their greatest rivers. Preston stands on a hill and is a very good market town; Satterday is their market w^ch day I was there and saw it was provided with all sorts of things—Leather, Corn Coales, butter, Cheese and fruite and garden things: there is a very spacious Market place and pretty Church and severall good houses. At y^e Entrance of y^e town was a very good house w^ch was a Lawyers all stone work 5 windows in y^e front and high built according to y^e Eastern building near London; the ascent to y^e house was 14 or 15 stone 156stepps Large and a handsome Court with open jron Pallasadoes in the gate, and on Each side, the whole breadth of y^e house, w^ch discover’d the gardens on Each side of the house, neately kept flowers and greens; there was also many steps up to y^e house from y^e Court—it was a Compleate building. There was 2 or 3 more such houses in y^e town and Indeed the Generallity of y^e buildings, Especially in 2 or 3 of y^e great streetes were very handsome, better than in most Country towns and y^e streetes spacious and well pitch’d. I was about 4 houres going this twelve mile and Could have gone 20 in the tyme in most Countrys, nay by the people of these parts this twelve is as long and as much tyme taken up in going it as to go from thence to Lancaster w^ch is 20 mile, and I Can Confirme this by my own Experience for I went to Goscoyne w^ch is 10 miles and halfe way to Lancaster in two houres, where I baited, and here it was I was first presented w^th y^e Clap bread w^ch is much talked of made all of oates. I was surpris’d when the Cloth was Laid, they brought a great Basket such as one uses to undress Children with and set it on the table full of thin waffers as big as Pancakes and drye that they Easily breake into shivers, but Coming to dinner found it to be y^e only thing I must Eate for bread. Y^e taste of oate bread is pleasant enough and where its well made is very acceptable, but for y^e most part its scarce baked and full of drye flour on y^e outside. Y^e description of how its made ought to Come in here but I Reserve it to y^e place I saw it made at the best way. As I Come to this place which was much over downs or a Race ground I Came along by some of y^e old Picts walls, y^e ruines of which here and there remaines in many parts of y^e Country. Gascoyn is a little market town—one Church in it w^ch is a mile off from y^e town, and y^e parish is 8 miles long, which discourag’d me in staying there being Satterday night and so pressed on to Lancaster.

I percieve most of y^e parishes are a great tract of Land and very Large and also beneficial, for all over Lancastershire the revenues of y^e parsonages are Considerable 2 and 300^£ 500 and 800 a piece, y^e parson at Liverpoole has 1100 a yeare, and its frequent Everywhere 3 or 400^£. Thence 157to Lancaster town 10 mile more which I Easily Reached in 2 hours and a halfe or 3 hours; I passed through abundance of villages almost at y^e End of Every mile, mostly all along Lanes being an Enclosed Country. They have one good thing in most parts of this principality, or County palatine its rather Call’d, that at all Cross wayes there are posts w^th hands pointing to each road w^th y^e names of y^e great town or market towns that it Leads to, w^ch does make up for y^e Length of y^e miles y^t strangers may not Loose their Road and have it to goe back againe. You have a great divertion on this road haveing a pleasing prospect of y^e Countrys a great distance round, and see it full of jnclosures and some woods, three miles off y^e town you see it very plaine and y^e sea, Even y^e main ocean; in one place an arm of it Comes up w^th in 2 mile of y^e town. Y^e River Liene runs by the town and so into y^e sea. Y^e situation of Lancaster town is very good, y^e Church neately built of stone, y^e Castle w^ch is just by, both on a very great ascent from y^e Rest of y^e town and so is in open view, y^e town and River Lying Round it beneath. On y^e Castle tower walking quite round by y^e battlements I saw y^e whole town and river at a view, w^ch runs almost quite round and returns againe by y^e town, and saw y^e sea beyond and y^e great high hills beyond y^t part of y^e sea, w^ch are in Wales, and also into Westmoreland to the great hills there Called ffurness ffells or hills, being a string of vast high hills together: also into Cumberland to y^e great hill Called Black Comb hill whence they digg their black Lead and no where Else; but they open y^e mine but once in Severall yeares. I also saw into Yorkshire,—there is Lead, Copper, gold and silver in some of those hills and marble and Christall also.

Lancaster town is old and much decay’d: there has been a monastery, the walls of part of it remaine and some of y^e Carv’d stones and ffigures; there is in it a good garden and a pond in it w^th a little jsland on w^ch an apple tree grows—a Jenitin; and Strawberys all round its Rootes and y^e banks of the Little jsle. There are 2 pretty wells and a vault that Leads a great way under ground up as farre as 158y^e Castle, w^ch is a good distance. In the River there are great weres or falls of water made for Salmon ffishing, where they hang their nets and Catch great quantety’s of ffish, w^ch is neare the bridge. The town seemes not to be much in trade as some others, but the great store of fish makes them Live plentifully as also the great plenty of all provisions. The streets are some of them well pitch’d and of a good size; when I came into the town the stones were so slippery Crossing some Channells that my horse was quite down on his nose, but did at length recover himself, and so I was not thrown off or jnjured w^ch I desire to bless God for, as for the many preservations I mett with. I Cannot say the town seemes a lazy town and there are trades of all sorts, there is a Large meeteing house, but their minister was but a mean preacher; there are 2 Churches in the town which are pretty near Each other.

Thence I went to Kendall in Westmoreland over steepe stony hills all like Rocks, 6 miles to one Lady Middleton, and by some Gentlemen w^ch were travelling that way that was their acquaintance, had the advantage of going through her parke, and saved the going Round a bad stony passage. It was very pleasant under the shade of the tall trees. It was an old timber house, but the family being from home we had a free passage through it on to the Road againe, much of w^ch was stony and steep—far worse than the Peake in Darbyshire. This Lady Middleton was a papist and I believe the Gentlemen y^t was travelling were too. Thence to Kendall ten mile more, most of y^e way was in Lanes when I was out of the stony hills, and then into jnclosed Lands, here in 6 miles to the town you have very Rich good Land Enclosed—Little round green hills flourishing w^th Corn and grass as green and fresh, being in the prime season in July. There is not much woods but only the hedge rows round the grounds w^ch Looks very fine. In these Northern Countyes they have only the summer Graine, as barley, oates, peas, beans, and Lentils, noe wheate or Rhye for they are so cold and Late in their yeare they Cannot venture at that sort of tillage, so have none but what they are supply’d out of other Countys 159adjacent. The Land seemes here in many places very ffertile; they have much Rhye in Lancashire Yorkshire and Stafford and Shropshire and so Herriford and Worcestershire, w^ch I found very troublesome in my journeys, for they would not own they had any such thing in their bread, but it so disagrees w^th me as allwayes to make me sick w^ch I found by its Effects whenever I met w^th any, tho’ I did not discern it by the taste; in Suffolke and Norfolke I also met w^th it, but in these parts its altogether y^e oatbread. Kendall is a town built all of stone, one very broad streete in which is the Market Crosse; its a goode tradeing town mostly famed for the Cottons: Kendall Cotton is used for blanckets and the Scotts use them for their Plodds and there is much made here and also Linsi-woolseys, and a great deale of Leather tann’d here, and all sorts of Commodityes—twice a weeke is y^e market ffurnished w^th all sorts of things.

The River Can w^ch gives name to the town is pretty Large but full of Rocks and stones that makes shelves and falls in the water, its stor’d w^th plenty of good ffish and there are great ffalls of water partly naturall and added to by putting more stones in manner of Wyers, at w^ch they Catch Salmon when they Leape with speares. The Roaring of y^e water at these places sometymes does foretell wet weather; they do observe when the water roares most in the fall on the Northside it will be ffaire, if on the Southside of the town it will be wet. Some of them are falls as high as a house. The same observation is at Lancaster at the Wires where they Catch Salmon; against Stormes or raines it will be turbulent and Rore as may be heard into the town. There are 3 or 4 good houses in the town, y^e rest are like good traders houses very neate and tight. The streetes are all pitch’d w^ch is Extreame Easy to be repair’d, for the whole Country is like one Entire Rock or pitching almost all y^e Roads. At the Kings arms, one M^rs Rowlandson, she does pott up the Charr ffish the best of any in the Country: I was Curious to have some and so bespoke some of her, and also was as Curious to see the great water w^ch is the only place that ffish is to be found 160in, and so went from Kendall to Bondor 6 miles thro’ narrow Lanes, but the Lands in y^e jnclosures are Rich. But here Can be noe Carriages, but very narrow ones like Little wheele-barrows that with a horse they Convey their fewell and all things Else. They also use horses on which they have a sort of Pannyers some Close, some open, that they strew full of hay turff and Lime and Dung and Every thing they would use, and the reason is plaine, from the narrowness of the Lanes where is good Lands they will Loose as Little as they Can, and where its hilly and stoney no other Carriages Can pass, so they use these horse Carriages, and abundance of horses I see all about Kendall streetes with their Burdens. This Kendall is the biggest town and much in y^e heart of Westmoreland, but Appleby 10 mile off is the shire town where the session and assizes are held and is 7 miles to this great Lake Wiandermer or great standing water w^ch is 10 mile long and near halfe a mile over in some places. It has many Little hills or jsles in it, one of a great bigness of 30 acres of ground on which is a house, y^e Gentleman that is Lord of y^e Manour Lives in it—S^r Christopher Phillips; he has a great Command of y^e water and of y^e villages thereabout and many Priviledges, he makes a Major or Bailiff of y^e place during life; its but a small mean place, M^r Majors was the best Entertaining house where I was. Y^e Isle did not Looke to be so bigg at y^e shore, but takeing boate I went on it and found it as large and very good Barley and oates and grass. The water is very Cleer and full of good ffish, but y^e Charr ffish being out of season Could not Easily be taken, so I saw none alive but of other ffish I had a very good supper. The season of the Charr ffish is between Michaelmas and Christmas; at that tyme I have had of them, w^ch they pott with sweete spices. They are as big as a small trout, Rather slenderer and y^e skinn full of spotts, some Red Like the finns of a Perch and the jnside flesh Looks as Red as any salmon if they are in season; their taste is very Rich and fatt tho’ not so strong or Clogging as the Lamprys are, but its as fatt and Rich a food. This great water seemes to flow and wane about with y^e wind but it 161does not Ebb and flow Like the sea with the tyde, neither does it run so as to be perceivable, tho’ at y^e End of it a Little Rivulet trills from it into the Sea, but it seemes to be a standing Lake Encompass’d with vast high hills, y^t are perfect Rocks and barren ground of a vast height, from which many Little Springs out of y^e Rock does bubble up and descend down and fall into this water. Notwithstanding great raines y^e water does not seem much Encreas’d tho’ it must be so, then it does draine off more at the End of the Lake. These hills w^ch they Call Ffurness Ffells a long Row Continued some miles, and some of them are Call’d Donum ffells and soe from the places they adjoyne to are named, but they hold the whole length of the water w^ch is 10 mile; they have fome parts of them that has wayes that they Can by degrees in a Compass ascend them and so they go onward. In the Countrys, they are fferried over the Lake when they go to market. On y^e other side over those ffells there is a sort of Stones Like Rubbish or Broken pieces of stones, w^ch Lies about a quarry, that Lies all in the bottom of y^e water; where its so shallow as at the shores it is and very Cleer you see the bottom; between these stones are weeds w^ch grows up, that I had some taken up just Like samfyer and I have a fancy its a sort of sampire that Indeed is gather’d in y^e Rocks by the sea and water, and this grows in the water but it resembles it in Coullour, ffigure and the taste not much unlike—it was somewhat waterish. There was also fine moss growing in the bottom of y^e water. Here it was I saw y^e oat Clap bread made. They mix their flour with water, so soft as to rowle it in their hands into a ball, and then they have a board made round and something hollow in the middle riseing by degrees all round to the Edge a little higher, but so little as one would take it to be only a board warp’d, this is to Cast out the Cake thinn and so they Clap it round and drive it to y^e Edge in a Due proportion till drove as thinn as a paper and still they Clap it and drive it round, and then they have a plaite of jron same size w^th their Clap board, and so shove off the Cake on it and so set it on Coales and bake it; when Enough 162on one side they slide it off and put the other side; if their jron plaite is smooth and they take Care their Coales or Embers are not too hot but just to make it Looke yellow, it will bake and be as Crisp and pleasant to Eate as any thing you Can jmagine, but as we say of all sorts of bread there is a vast deal of difference in what is housewifely made and what is ill made, so this if its well mixed and Rowled up and but a little flour on the outside which will drye on and make it mealy is a very good sort of food. This is the sort of bread they use in all these Countrys, and in Scotland they breake into their milk or broth or Else sup that up and bite off their bread between while they spread butter on it and Eate it with their meate. They have no other Sort of bread unless at market towns and that is scarce to be had unless the market dayes, soe they make their Cake and Eate it presently, for its not so good if 2 or 3 dayes old. It made me reflect on the description made in Scripture of this Kneeding Cakes and bakeing them on the hearth whenever they had Company Come to their houses, and I Cannot but thinke it was after this manner they made their bread in y^e old tymes Especially those Eastern Countryes where their bread might be soone dry’d and spoil’d. Their little Carts I was speakeing of they use hereabout, the wheeles are fastned to the axletree and so turn altogether, they hold not above what 5 wheelbarrows would Carry at three or four tymes, which the Girles and Boys and women does go about with drawn by one horse to Carry any thing they want. Here is a great deal of good grass and Summer Corn and pastures, its Rich Land in the bottoms as one may Call them Considering the vast hills above them on all sides, yet they Contain a number of Lesser hills one below another, so that tho’ at one Looke you think it but a little Land Every body has; Yet it being so full of hills its many acres w^ch if at Length in a plain would Extend a vast way. I was about a quarter of an hour in the boate before I reach’d y^e island w^ch is in the midst of the water so by that you may guesse at the breadth of the water in the whole, they fferry man and horse over it; its sometymes 163perfectly Calme. Thence I Rode almost all the waye in sight of this great water, some tymes I lost it by reason of y^e great hills interposeing and so a Continu’d up hill and down hill and that pretty steep, even when I was in that they Called bottoms w^ch are very rich good grounds, and so I gained by degrees from Lower to higher hills w^ch I allwayes went up and down before I Came to another hill. At last I attained to the side of one of these hills or ffells of Rocks, w^ch I passed on the side much about the Middle, for Looking down to the bottom it was at Least a Mile all full of those Lesser hills and jnclosures, so Looking upward I was as farre from the top which was all Rocks, and something more barren tho’ there was some trees and woods growing in y^e Rocks and hanging over all down y^e Brow of some of the hills. From these great ffells there are severall springs out of y^e Rock that trickle down their sides, and as they meete with stones and Rocks in the way, when something obstructs their passage and so they Come with more violence, that gives a pleaseing sound and murmuring noise. These descend by degrees at last fall into the Low grounds and fructifye it w^ch makes y^e Land soe ffruit full in the valleys, and upon those very high ffells or Rocky hills its (tho’) soe high yet a moorish sort of ground whence they digg abundance of Peat w^ch they use for their fewell, being in many places a barren ground yeilding noe wood &c. I rode in sight of this Winander water as I was ascending another of those barren ffells w^ch tho’ I at last was not halfe way up, yet was an hour going it up and down on the other side, going only on the side of it about y^e middle of it, but it was of such a height as to shew one a great deale of y^e Country when it happens to be between those hills, Else those interposeing hinders any sight but of y^e Clouds. I see a good way behind me another of those waters or mers but not very bigge. These great hills are so full of Loose stones and shelves of Rocks y^t its very unsafe to Ride them down.

There is good Marble amongst those Rocks. As I walked down at this place I was walled on both sides by those inaccessible high rocky barren hills w^ch hangs over 164ones head in some places and appears very terrible, and from them springs many Little Currents of water from the sides and Clefts, w^ch trickle down to some Lower part where it runs swiftly over the stones and shelves in the way, w^ch makes a pleasant Rush and murmuring noise, and Like a snowball is Encreased by Each spring trickling down on either side of those hills, and so descends into the bottoms w^ch are a moorish ground in w^ch in many places the waters stand, and so forme some of those Lakes as it did here. Y^e Confluence of all these little springs being gathered together in this lake, w^ch was soe deep as the Current of water y^t passed through it was scarce to be perceived till one Came to the farther End from whence it run a good little River and pretty quick, over w^ch many bridges are Laid. Here I Came to villages of sad little hutts made up of drye walls, only stones piled together and y^e Roofs of same slatt; there seemed to be little or noe tunnells for their Chimneys and have no morter or Plaister within or without. For the most part I tooke them at first sight for a sort of houses or Barns to fodder Cattle in, not thinking them to be dwelling houses, they being scattering houses, here one, there another, in some places they may be 20 or 30 together; and the Churches the same. It must needs be very Cold dwellings, but it shews some thing of y^e Lazyness of y^e people; indeed here and there there was a house plaister’d, but there is sad Entertainment—that sort of Clap bread and butter and Cheese and a Cup of beer all one Can have, they are 8 mile from a market town and their miles are tedious to go both for illness of way and length of y^e miles.

They reckon it but 8 mile from the place I was at the night before, but I was 3 or 4 hours at Least going it. Here I found a very good smith to shoe y^e horses, for these stony hills and wayes pulls off a shoe presently, and wears them as thinn that it was a Constant Charge to shoe my horses every 2 or 3 dayes, but this smith did shoe them so well and so good shoes y^t they held some of the shooes 6 weekes. Y^e stonyness of the wayes all here about teaches them y^e art of makeing good shooes and setting them on 165fast. Here I cross’d one of y^e stone bridges y^t was pretty Large w^ch Entred me into Cumberlandshire. This River together with y^e additionall springs Continually running into it all the way from those vaste precipices Comes into a Low place and form a broad water w^ch is very Cleer and Reaches 7 mile in Length, Uleswater its Called, such another water as that of Wiandermer only that reaches 10 mile in Length, from Amblside to y^e sea, and this is but 7 such miles Long. Its full of such sort of Stones and flatts in the bottom as y^e other, neer the brimm where its Shallowe you see it Cleer to y^e bottom; this is secured on Each side by such formidable heights as those Rocky ffells in same manner as the other was. I rode the whole Length of this water by its side, sometyme a Little higher upon the side of the hill and sometyme just by the shore, and for 3 or 4 miles I Rode through a fine fforest or Parke where was deer skipping about and haires, w^ch by meanes of a good Greyhound I had a Little Course, but we being strangers could not so fast pursue it in the grounds full of hillocks and ffurse and soe she Escaped us. I observed the boundaries of all these great waters (which are a sort of deep Lakes or kind of standing waters) are those sort of Barren Rocky hills w^ch are so vastly high. I Call this a standing water because its not like other great Rivers as y^e Trent Severne, Hull or Thames &c. to appear to Run w^th a streame or Current, but only as it Rowles from side to side Like waves as the wind moves it; its true at the End of this being a Low fall of Ground it runs off in a Little streame. There is Exceeding good ffish here and all sorts of provision at y^e market towns. Their market town was Peroth 10 long miles. A mile or two beyond this Ullswater,—Tuesday is the market day w^ch was the Day I came thither. Its a Long way for y^e market people to goe but they and their horses are used to it and go w^th much more facility than strangers. At y^e end of this Ullswater is a fine round hill Look’d as green and full of wood very pleasant, w^th grass and Corne very ffruitefull, and hereabout we Leave these Desart and Barren Rocky hills, not that they are Limitted to Westmoreland only for had I gone farther to y^e 166Left hand into Cumberland I should have found more such, and they tell me farr worse for height and stony-nesse about White haven side and Cockermouth, so y^t tho’ both the County’s have very good land and fruitfull, so they equally partake of y^e bad, tho’ Indeed Westmoreland takes it name from its aboundings in springs which distilling itself on Lower ground, if of a spungy soile made it marshy or Lakes, and in many places very fruitfull in summer graine and grasse, but y^e northerly winds blow Cold so long on them y^t they never attempt sowing their Land with wheate or Rhye. Y^e stones and slatt about Peroth Look’d so Red y^t at my Entrance into the town thought its buildings were all of brick, but after found it to be the Coullour of the stone w^ch I saw in the Quarrys Look very Red, their slatt is the same w^ch Cover their houses. Its a pretty Large town—a good Market for Cloth that they spinn in the Country—hempe and also woollen. Its a great Market for all sorts of Cattle, meate Corne &c &c. Here are two Rivers one Called y^e Emount w^ch parts Cumberland and Westmoreland, w^ch bridge I should have passed over had I Come the direct Roade from Kendall to Peroth, but strikeing off to Ambleside to Wiandermer I came another End of y^e town. In this River are greate falls of waters Call’d Cataracts, by Reason of the Rock and shelves in it w^ch makes a great noise w^ch is heard more against foul weathers into the town, tho’ the bridge be halfe a mile out of y^e town. The other River is Called Louder w^ch gives name to Lord Landsdown’s house Call’d Louder hall w^ch is four mile from Peroth. I went to it through fine woods, the front is just faceing the great roade from Kendall and Lookes very nobly, w^th severall Rows of trees w^ch Leads to Large jron gates, open barres, into the stable yard w^ch is a fine building on y^e one side of y^e house very uniform, and just against it is such another Row of buildings y^e other side of y^e house Like two wings w^ch is the offices. Its built Each Like a fine house jutting out at Each End and y^e middle is w^th Pillars, white, and Carvings Like the Entrance of a building. These are just Equal and alike and Encompass the two sides of the first Court w^ch Enters, with 167Large jron gates and jron Palasadoes in the breadth, and then there is an ascent of 15 stone steps turned round, very Large, and on the top Large jron gates pallisad of jron betweene stone pillars, w^ch runs the breadth of the front. This Court is with paved walks of broad stone, one broad one to the house, y^e other of same breadth runs aCrosse to the stables and offices, and so there is 4 Large Squares of grass in w^ch there is a large Statue of Stone in the midst of Each, and 4 Little Cupids or Little Boys in Each Corner of the 4 squares. Then one ascends severall more steps to another Little Court v^th open Iron Railes, and this is divided Into severall grass plotts by paved walks of stone to the severall doores, some of w^ch are straight, others slope: the grass plotts being seven and in Each statue the middle-most is taller than the rest, this is just the front of y^e house where you Enter a porch w^th Pillars of Lime stone, but y^e house is y^e Red sort of stone of y^e Country. Below staires you Enter a space that Leads severall wayes to all the offices, and on one side is a Large parlour w^ch Lookes out on these green plotts w^th images. The staircase very well wanscoated and Carv’d, at y^e top you are Landed into a noble hall very Lofty, the top and sides are exquisitely painted by y^e best hand in England which did the painting at Windsor. The Top is the Gods and goddesses that are sitting at some great feast and a great tribunal before y^m; Each Corner is the seasons of the yeare w^th the variety of weather Raines and rainbows, stormy winds, sun shine, snow and frost with multitudes of other fancys and varietyes in painting and Looks very natural—it Cost 500^£ that roome alone. Thence into a Dineing room and drawing roome well wanscoated of oake, Large pannells plaine, no frettwork nor Carvings or Glass worke, only in Chimney pieces. 3 handsome Chambers, one scarlet Cloth strip’d and very fashionably made up, the hangings the same, another flower’d Damaske Lined with fine jndian Embroidery, the third Roome had a blew satten bed Embroider’d. In this Roome was very fine orris hangings in w^ch was much silk and gold and silver; a Little Roome by in w^ch was a green and white Damaske Canopy bed w^ch was 168hung w^th some of the same hangings being made for y^e Duke of Lortherdale and had his armes in many places—by his Dying were sold to Lord Landsdon.

They Containe a Scottish story of the 4 quarters of the yeare. The roomes are all well pitch’d and well ffinish’d, and many good Pictures of y^e family, and severall good fancy’s of human and animals, a good gallery so adorn’d w^ch Leads to a Closet that Looks into y^e Chappell; all things very neate tho’ nothing Extraord^y besides y^e hall painting. The Chimney pieces are of a dark Coull^d Marble w^ch is taken out of the ground just by—its well polish’d. There was some few white marble vein’d, but that is not Dug out of this Country. The house is a flatt rooffe and stands amidst a wood of Rows of trees, w^ch w^th these statues and those in two gardens on Each side (w^ch for their walks and plantations is not ffinish’d but full of Statues) which with the house is so well Contrived to be seen at one view. Y^e Lady Landsdown sent and treated me with a Breakfast, Cold things and sweete meates all serv’d in plaite, but it was so Early in the morning that she being jndisposed was not up. So I returned back 4 mile to Peroth and Came in sight of Severall Genteele seates or Gentlemens houses, and Came by a Round green spott of a Large Circumfference which they keep Cut round w^th a banke round it like a Bench; its story is that it was the table a great Giant 6 yards tall, used to Dine at, and there Entertain’d anoth^r of nine yards tall which he afterwards killed; there is the Length in the Church yard how far he Could Leape—a great many Yards. There was also on the Church at Peroth a fine Clock w^ch had severall motions—there was the Starrs and signes, there was the Encrease and Changes of y^e moone, by a Darke and golden side of a Little Globe. A mile from Peroth in a Low bottom and moorish place stands Mag and her sisters; the story is that these soliciting her to an unlawfull Love by an Enchantment are turned w^th her into stone; the stone in the middle w^ch is Call’d Mag is much bigger and have some fforme Like a statue or ffigure of a body, but the Rest are but soe many Craggy stones, but they affirme they Cannot be Counted twice alike as is 169the story of Stonidge, but the number of these are not above 30. However what the first design of placeing them there Either as a marke of y^t sort of moorish Ground or what Else, the thing is not so wonderfull as that of Stonidge, because there is noe such sort of stone in 20 miles off those downs and how they of so vast a bulk and weight should be brought thither, whereas all this Country abounds with Quarrys of stone and its mostly Rocks. The waye from thence to Carlisle over much heath where they have many stone Quarrys and Cut much peate and turff w^ch is their Chief fuel. Its reckon’d but 16 mile from Peroth to Carlisle, but they are pretty Long, besides my going out of y^e waye above 3 or 4 mile w^ch made it 20. They were very Long and I was a great while Rideing it. You pass by the Little hutts and hovels the poor Live in Like Barnes—some have them daub’d w^th mud-wall—others drye walls.

Carlisle stands in view at Least 4 mile distant, y^e town is walled in and all built of stone. The Cathedrall stands high and very Eminent to be seen above y^e town. You Enter over the Bridge and Double gates w^ch are jron grates and Lined w^th a Case of doores of thick timber, there are 3 gates to the town, one Called the English gate at which I entred. The other the jrish w^ch Leads on to Whitehaven and Cockermouth, the other y^e Scottish gate through which I went into Scotland. The walls of the town and Battlements and towers are in very good Repaire and Looks well. Y^e Cathedrall all built of stone which Looked stately but nothing Curious; there was some few houses as y^e Deans and treasurer and some of y^e Doctors houses walled in with Little gardens, their fronts Looked Gracefully; Else I saw no house Except the present Majors house of brick and stone, and one house which was y^e Chancellors built of stone very Lofty, 5 good sarshe windows in y^e front, and this within a Stone wall’d Garden well kept, and Iron gates to discover it to view with stone Pillars. Ye streetes are very broad and handsome well Pitched.

I walked round the walls and saw the River w^ch twists and turns itself round the grounds, Called the Emount, w^ch at 3 or 4 miles off is flow’d by the sea. The other River is 170the Essex w^ch is very broad and Ebbs and flows about a mile or two off. There Remaines only some of the walls and ruines of y^e Castle, w^ch does shew it to have been a very strong town formerly. The walls are of a prodigious thickness and vast great stones, its moated round and with draw bridges. There is a Large Market place w^th a good Cross and hall, and is well supply’d as I am Inform’d w^th provision at Easye rate, but my Landlady notwithstanding ran me up the Largest Reckoning for allmost nothing, it was y^e dearest Lodging I met with and she pretended she Could get me nothing else; so for 2 joynts of mutton and a pinte of wine and bread and beer I had a 12 shilling Reckoning, but since I find tho’ I was in the biggest house in town I was in the worst accomodation, and so found it, and a young giddy Landlady y^t Could only Dress fine and Entertain the soldiers. From hence I tooke a guide the next day and so went for Scotland and Rode 3 or 4 mile by y^e side of this River Emount w^ch is full of very good ffish. I Rode sometymes on a high Ridge over a hill, sometymes on the sands, it turning and winding about that I went almost all the way by it and saw them with boates fishing for Salmon and troute, w^ch made my journey very pleasant. Leaving this River I Came to the Essex w^ch is very broad and hazardous to Crosse Even when the tyde is out, by which it leaves a broad sand on Each side, which in some places is unsafe, made me take a good guide which Carry’d me aboute and a Crosse some part of it here, and some part in another place, it being Deep in y^e Channell where I did Crosse w^ch was in sight of y^e mouth of the river that runs into the sea. On the sand before the water was quite gone from it I saw a great bird w^ch Look’d almost black picking up ffish and busking in the water, it Looked like an Eagle and by its dimentions Could scarce be any other bird. Thence I went into Scotland over the river Serke which is also flowed by y^e sea, but in the Summer tyme is not soe deep but Can be pass’d over—tho’ pretty deep but narrow. It affords good ffish, but all here about w^ch are Called borderers seem to be very poor people w^ch I impute to their sloth. Scotland this 171part of it is a Low Marshy ground where they Cutt turff and peate for the fewell, tho’ I should apprehend y^e sea might Convey Coales to them. I see Little that they are Employ’d besides ffishing w^ch makes provision plentifull or Else their Cutting and Carving turff and peate, w^ch the women and great Girles bare legged does Lead a horse w^ch draws a sort of carriage, the Wheeles like a Dung-pott and hold about 4 wheele barrows. These people tho’ with naked Leggs are yet wrapp’d up in plodds, a piece of woollen Like a Blanket, or Else Rideing hoods—and this when they are in their houses. I tooke them for people w^ch were sick, seeing 2 or 3 great wenches as tall and bigg as any woman sat hovering between their bed and Chimney corner, all jdle doing nothing or at Least was not settled to any work tho’ it was nine of the Clock when I Came thither, haveing gone 7 long miles that morning. This is a Little Market town Called Adison Bank the houses Look just Like the booths at a fair, I am sure j have been in some of them that were tollerable dwellings to these, they have no Chimneys, their smoke Comes out all over the house and there are great holes in y^e sides of their houses w^ch Letts out the smoake when they have been well smoaked in it. There is no Roome in their houses but is up to y^e thatch and in which are 2 or 3 beds, Even to their parlours and buttery, and notwithstanding y^e Cleaning of their parlour for me I was not able to beare the roome; the smell of the hay was a perfume and what I Rather Chose to stay and see my horses Eate their provender in the stable than to stand in y^t roome for I Could not bring my self to sit down. My Landlady offered me a good dish of ffish and brought me butter in a Lairdly Dish with the Clap bread, but I Could have no stomach to Eate any of the ffood they should order, and finding they had noe wheaten bread I told her I Could not Eate their Clapt out bread, soe I bought the ffish she got for me w^ch was full Cheape Enough, nine pence for two pieces of Salmon halfe a one neer a yard Long, and a very Large trout of an amber Coullour, soe drinking w^th out Eateing some of their wine w^ch was Exceeding good Claret w^ch they stand Conveniently for to have from France, 172and Indeed it was the best and truest Ffrench wine I have dranck this seven year and very Clear, I had y^e first tapping of y^e Little vessell and it was very fine. Then I went up to their Church w^ch Looks Rather Like some Little house built of stone and bricke such as our ordinary people in a village Live in. Y^e doores were and y^e Seates and pulpit was in so disregarded a manner that one would have thought there was no use of it, but there is a parson which Lives just by, whose house is y^e best in the place, and they are all fine folks in their Sundays Cloathes. I observe y^e Church yard is full of grave stones pretty Large with Coates of armes, and some had a Coronet on the Eschutcheons Cut in the stone. I saw but one house that Look’d Like a house about a quarter of a mile, w^ch was some gentlemans that was built 2 or 3 roomes and some over them of brick and stone, the rest were all Like Barns or hutts for Cattle. This is threescore miles from Edenborough and the neerest town to this place is 18 miles, and there would not have been much better entertainement or accomodation, and their miles are soe long in these Countrys made me afraid to venture, Least after a tedious journey I should not be able to get a bed I Could Lye in. It seemes there are very few towns Except Edenburough Abberdeen and Kerk w^ch Can give better treatement to strangers, therefore for the most part persons y^t travell there go from one Noblemans house to another. Those houses are all Kind of Castles and they Live great tho’ in so nasty a way as all things are in even those houses one has Little Stomach to Eate or use anything, as I have been told by some that has travell’d there, and I am sure I mett with a sample of it enough to discourage my progress farther in Scotland. I attribute it wholly to their sloth for I see they sitt and do Little. I think there were one or two at Last did take spinning in hand at a Lazy way. Thence I tooke my ffish to Carry it to a place for the English to dress it and repass’d the Serke and the River Essex and there I saw y^e Common people men women and Children take off their shooes, and holding up their Cloathes wade through the rivers when y^e tide was out, and truely some there were 173that when they Come to y^e other side put on shoes and stockings and had ffine Plodds Cast over them and their Garb seemed above y^e Common people; but this is their Constant way of travelling from one place to anoth^r—if any river to pass they make no use of Bridges and have not many. I Came to Long town w^ch is 3 long mile from Addison Bank and is Called a Border and Indeed is very like y^e Scotsland. Thence I Cross’d over a tedious long heath to Brampton a mile over Lime River and here I had my dinner dress’d—thence to Mucks hall 6 miles. Here I pass’d by my Lord Carletons which stands in the midst of woods. You goe through Lanes and Little sort of woods or hedge rows and many Little purling rivers or Brooks out of y^e rocks. At Muneks Hall I Cross’d such another brooke and so out of Cumberland I Entred Northumberland. This is y^e place y^e judges Dine, its a sorry place for Entertainement of such a Company; here the Sherriffs meete them, it being the Entrance of Northumberland w^ch is much Like the other County. This it seemes Camden relates to be a Kingdom. This I am sure of, the more I travell’d Northward the Longer I found y^e miles, I am sure these 6 miles and y^e other 6 miles to Hartwhistle might with modesty be esteemed double the Number in most of y^e Countys in England, Especially in and about 30 or 40 miles off London. I did not go 2 of those miles in an hour. Just at my Entrance into Northumberland I ascended a very steep hill of w^ch there are many, but one about 2 mile forward was Exceeding steep, full of great Rocks and stone—some of it along on a Row (the remainder of the Picts walls or ffortification) at y^e bottom of w^ch was an old Castle the walls and towers of which was mostly Standing. Its a sort of Black moorish ground and so wet I observ’d as my Man Rode up that sort of precipice or steep his horses heeles Cast up water every step, and their feete Cut deepe in, Even quite up to y^e top. Such up and down hills and sort of boggy ground it was and y^e night Drawing fast on, y^e miles so Long, that I tooke a guide to direct me to avoid those ill places. This Hartwhistle is a Little town, there was one Inn but they had noe hay nor would get none, and when my 174servants had got some Else where they were angry and would not Entertaine me, so I was forced to take up in a poor Cottage w^ch was open to y^e Thatch and no partitions but hurdles plaistered. Indeed y^e Loft as they Called it w^ch was over the other roomes was shelter’d but w^th a hurdle; here I was fforced to take up my abode and y^e Landlady brought me out her best sheetes w^ch serv’d to secure my own sheetes from her dirty blanckets, and Indeed I had her fine sheete to spread over y^e top of the Clothes; but noe sleepe Could I get, they burning turff and their Chimneys are sort of fflews or open tunnills, y^t y^e smoake does annoy the roomes. This is but 12 miles from another part of Scotland, the houses are but a Little better built, its true the inside of them are kept a Little better. Not far from this a Mile or two is a greate hill from which rises 3 rivers: the Teese w^ch is y^e border between Durham and York, y^e Ouse that runns to Yorke, and the River Tyne which runns to NewCastle and is the divider of Northumberland and Durham. This river Tyne runns 7 miles and then joyns w^th the other river Tyne that Comes out of Northumberland and so they run on to NewCastle. From Hartwhistle I went pretty much up hill and down and had the River Tyne much in view for 6 miles, then I cross’d over it on a Large stone bridge and so Rode by its bank or pretty much in sight of it on the other side to Hexholme 6 mile more. This is one of the best towns in Northumberland Except NewCastle, w^ch is one place the Sessions are kept for the shire; its built of Stone and looks very well, there are 2 gates to it, many streetes, some are pretty broad, all well pitch’d, w^th a spacious Market place w^th a town hall on the Market Crosse. Thence I went through y^e Lord Darentwaters parke just by his house w^ch is an old building not very Large, for 3 mile in all, to a Little village where I cross’d over the Tyne on a Long Bridge of stone w^th many arches. The river is in some places broader than in others, its true at this tyme of y^e yeare being Midsumer the springs are the Lowest and the Rivers shallow, and where there is any Rocks or stones Left quite bare of water.

Thence I went 4 mile along by the Tyne, the road was 175good hard gravelly way for the most part, but very steep up hills and down; on one of these I Rode a pretty while w^th a great precipice on the Right hand down to the river, it Looked hazardous, but the way was very broad. The River Looked very reffreshing and y^e Cattle Coming to its sides and into it where shallow to Coole themselves in the heate, for hitherto as I met w^th noe Raines, notwithstanding the great raines y^t fell the 2 dayes before I Left Woolsley, and y^e Little showers I had when I went to Hollywell I was not annoy’d w^th wet nor Extream heat, the Clouds being a shade to me by day and Gods good providence and protection all wayes. This after noon was the hottest day I met with but it was seasonable being in July. As I drew nearer and nearer to NewCastle I met with and saw abundance of Little Carriages w^th a yoke of oxen and a pair of horses together, w^ch is to Convey the Coales from y^e pitts to y^e Barges on the river. There is Little sort of Dung-potts. I suppose they hold not above 2 or three Chaudron. This is the sea Coale which is pretty much small Coale tho’ some is round Coales, yet none like the Cleft coales and this is what y^e smiths use and it Cakes in y^e ffire and makes a great heate, but it burns not up Light unless you put most round Coales w^ch will burn Light, but then its soon gone and that part of y^e Coale never Cakes, there fore y^e small sort is as good as any—if its black and shineing, that shows its goodness. This Country all about is full of this Coale, y^e sulpher of it taints y^e aire and it smells strongly to strangers,—upon a high hill 2 mile from NewCastle I could see all about the Country w^ch was full of Coale pitts.

New-Castle Lies in a bottom very Low, it appears from this hill a greate fflatt. I saw all by the river Tyne w^ch runns along to Tinmouth 5 or 6 miles off, w^ch Could see very plaine and y^e Scheld w^ch is the key or ffort at the mouth of y^e river w^ch disembogues itself into y^e sea; all this was in view on this high hill w^ch I descended—5 mile more, in all nine from that place.

NewCastle is a town and County of itself standing part in Northumberland part in y^e Bishoprick of Durham, the 176river Tyne being y^e division. Its a noble town tho’ in a bottom, it most resembles London of any place in England, its buildings Lofty and Large, of brick mostly or stone. The streetes are very broad and handsome and very well pitch’d, and many of them w^th very ffine Cunduits of water in Each allwayes running into a Large stone Cistern for Every bodyes use. There is one great streete where in y^e Market Crosse, there was one great Cunduit with two spouts w^ch falls into a Large ffountaine paved w^th stone which held at Least 2 or 3 hodsheads for the jnhabitants. There are 4 gates w^ch are all Double gates with a sort of Bridge between Each. The west gate w^ch I entred I came by a Large building of bricke within bricke walls, which is the hall for the assizes and sessions for the shire of Northumberland. This is NewCastle on y^e Tyne and is a town and County. There is a noble Building in the middle of the town all of stone for an Exchange on stone pillars severall rows. On the top is a building of a very Large hall for the judges to keep the assizes for the town; there is another roome for y^e Major and Councill and another for the jury out of the Large roome w^ch is the hall, and opens into a Balcony w^ch Looks out on y^e River and y^e Key. Its a Lofty good building of stone, very uniforme on all sides w^th stone pillars in the ffronts both to the streete and market place and to the waterside. There is a ffine Clock on the top just as y^e Royal Exchange has. The Key is a very ffine place and Lookes itself Like an Exchange being very broad and soe full of merchants walking to and againe, and it runs off a great Length w^th a great many steps down to y^e water for the Conveniency of Landing or boateing their goods, and is full of Cellars or ware houses. Ye harbour is full of shipps but none that is above 2 or 300 tun Can Come up quite to the Key: its a town of greate trade. There is one Large Church built of stone w^th a very high tower finely Carv’d full of spires and severall devises in the Carving—all stone. The Quire is neate as is the whole Church and Curious Carving in wood on each side the quire, and over the ffront is a great Piramidy of wood ffinely Carv’d full of spires. There was a Castle in this 177town but now there is noe remaines of it but some of y^e walls w^ch are built up in houses and soe only appears as a great hill or ascent, w^ch in some places is 30 or 40 steps advance to the streetes that are built on y^e higher ground where the Castle was. There was one place soe Like Snow Hill in London w^th a fine Conduite. Their shops are good and are of Distinct trades, not selling many things in one shop as is y^e Custom in most Country towns and Cittys; here is one market for Corne, another for Hay, besides all other things w^ch takes up two or three streetes. Satturday was their biggest Market day w^ch was the Day I was there, and by Reason of the extreame heate resolved to stay till the sun was Low ere I proceeded farther, so had the opportunity of seeing most of the Market w^ch is Like a ffaire for all sorts of provision, and good and very Cheape. I saw one buy a quarter of Lamb ffor 3^d and 2^d a piece: good Large poultry. Here is Leather, Woollen and Linnen and all sorts of stands for baubles. They have a very jndifferent sort of Cheese—Little things, Looks black on the outside. There is a very pleasant bowling-green, a Little walke out of the town w^th a Large gravel walke round it w^th two Rows of trees on Each side Makeing it very shady: there is a fine entertaineing house y^t makes up the ffourth side, before w^ch is a paved walke and Epyasses of bricke. There is a pretty Garden, by y^e side a shady walk, its a sort of spring garden where the Gentlemen and Ladyes walke in the Evening—there is a green house in the garden, its a pleasant walke to the town by y^e walls. There is one broad walke by the side of y^e town runns a good Length made w^th Coale ashes and so well trodden, and the raines makes it firm. There is a walke all round the walls of the town. There is a good ffree school and 5 Churches. I went to see the Barber Surgeons Hall w^ch was within a pretty garden walled in, full of flowers and greens In potts and in the Borders; its a good neate building of Brick. There I saw the roome w^th a round table in it railed round w^th seates or Benches for y^e Conveniency in their disecting and anatomiseing a body, and reading Lectures on all parts. There was two bodyes that had 178been anatomised, one the bones were fastned w^th wires the other had had the flesh boyled off and so some of y^e Ligeament remained and dryed w^th it, and so the parts were held together by its own Muscles and sinews that were dryed w^th it. Over this was another roome in w^ch was the skin of a man that was taken off after he was dead, and dressed, and so was stuff’d—the body and Limbs. It Look’d and felt Like a sort of parchment. In this roome I Could take a view of the whole town, it standing on high ground and a pretty Lofty building.

Just by is a very good Hospital for 14 widdows of tradesmen of the town, 2 good roomes a piece, a walke under a pyasse w^th pillars of brickwork, as is the whole building: there is a Large ffountaine or Cunduite of water for their use and an open Green before their house all walled in, its in y^e major and aldermans disposition, there is 2 or 300 pound a yeare to it, I thinke its 10 pound a piece. There is a very good fountaine belongs to it, and there is a fine bridge over the Tyne river w^th 9 arches all built on as London bridge is, which Enters you into Durham, and on this side of y^e Bridge are so many streets and buildings just Like Southwarke. Its a Little town but all is in the Liberty of y^e County town of New-Castle and soe Called, but its all in the Diocess of Durham. Through part of this you do ascend a greate height and steepness w^ch is full of Rocky stony stepps, and afterwards the hill Continues when out of y^e town till it has set you as high as on the former hill on the other side the town—w^ch I Entred out of Northumberland—and as that gave a Large prospect of the town and whole Country aboute on that side, soe this gives as pleasing a sight of it on this side and the whole river and shipps in the harbour. Thence I proceeded a most pleasant gravell Road on the Ridge of y^e hill and had the whole Country in view, w^ch seems much on a flatt to this place, tho’ there be a few Little steep up hills and descents, but the whole Country Looks Like a fruitfull woody place and seemes to Equal most Countys in England. 7 mile to Chester streete w^ch is a Little Market town, and I Rode neare Lumly Castle w^ch gives title and name to the 179Lord Lumly: the buildings Looke very Nobly, its in a 4 square tower running up to the top w^th three Round towers at the top between the windows—Lookes well—its a front the four wayes, its not finely ffurnish’d.

At this Little Market town I pass’d over the River Weire w^ch runns to Durham, w^ch is 7 mile farther over a pleasant Road and Country y^t resembles Black heath, you see the towns and Countrys Round full of Woods. One sees the Citty of Durham four mile off from a high hill, not but the Citty stands on a great rise of Ground and is a mile and halfe in Length. The river runs almost round the town and returns againe, that Casts the Citty into a tryangular; its not Navigeable nor possible to be made so because its so full of Rocks and vast stones, makes it difficult for any such attempt. Durham Citty stands on a great hill, the middle part much higher than the rest, the Cathedrall and Castle w^ch is y^e pallace w^th y^e Colledge and all the houses of the Doctors of the Churches is altogether built of stone and all Encompass’d w^th a wall full of battlements above the walke, and this is about the middle of y^e hill w^ch is a Round hill, and a steep descent into the rest of the town, where is the market place w^ch is a spacious place, and a very ffaire town hall on stone Pillars and a very Large Cunduite. From this all the streets are in a pretty greate descent to y^e river, which Lookes very pleasant by meanes of its turning and winding to and agen, and so there are 3 Large Stone Bridges w^th severall arches apiece. The abbey or y^e Cathedrall is very Large, the quire is good but nothing Extraordinary, some good painting in the Glass of the windows and wood Carving. There is over y^e alter a painting of a Large Catherine Wheele which Encompasses the whole window and fills it up. The Bishops seate has severall steps up, its Called y^e throne, with a Cloth of Gold Carpet before it. The seate was King Charles the first, of Crimson damaske. A good organ and a fine Clock in w^ch is the signes, w^th Chimes, and finely Carved w^th four pirramidy spires on Each Corner, a much Larger and higher one in the middle well Carv’d and painted. The ffont is of marble, the top was Carv’d wood very high, and 180terminates in a poynt and resembles the picture of y^e Building of Babel—its not painted. The Cloysters are good. A Chapple Called S^t Marys now used for to keep their spiritual Courts, and in the vestry I saw severall fine Embroyder’d Coapes—3 or 4, I saw one above the rest was so Richly Embroider’d w^th the whole Description of Christs nativity, Life, Death and ascention; this is put on the Deanes shoulders at the administration of the Lords supper, here is y^e only place that they use these things in England, and severall more Cerimonyes and Rites retained from the tymes of popery. There are many papists in the town, popishly affected, and daily encrease. There was great striveing in the Choice of the parliament men, w^ch I had the trouble of in most of my journeys, y^e Randan they made in the publick houses, jndeed I happen’d to get into a quiet good jnn a good accomodation, two Maiden sisters and brother kept it—at y^e Naggs head.

The Castle w^ch is the Bishops pallace stands on a Round hill w^ch has severall green walks round it, w^th high bancks to secure them one above another, and on the top are the towers. About the Middle of the hill is a broad Grass walk railed in and enters into a Dineing roome. There are very stately good roomes, parlours, drawing roomes, and a noble Hall, but the ffurniture was not very ffine the best being taken down in the absence of my Lord Crew, who is not a Barron of England but is a great prince as being Bishop of the whole principallity off Durham, and has a great Royalty and authority, is as an absolute Prince and has a great Command as well as revenue; his Spirituall is 5 or 6000^lb and his temporalls since his brothers Death makes it much more. He Comes sometymes hither but for the most part Lives at another Castle w^ch is a noble seate about 12 mile off, which is very well ffurnish’d and ffinish’d; he is the Governour as it were of the whole province. His pallace here makes a good appearance w^th the severall walks one below another with rows of trees, three or four descents and y^e wall at the bottom. Just by the Castle is a place for the assizes, 2 open barrs Lookes out into what is the space the College and Doctors houses are, and there is in the Middle a very ffine 181Large Cunduite, the water falling into the Cistern from 4 pipes, w^ch gives a pleaseing sound and prospect, it being arch’d with stone, and stone pillars, and Carv’d, and alsoe a high top arch ending in a ball; its the ffinest of this kind I have seen and so I must say of the whole Citty of Durham, its the noblest—Cleane and pleasant buildings, streetes Large, well pitch’d. The market Crosse is Large, a fflatt Roofe on severall Rows of Pillars of Stone and here is a good Cundit alsoe of stone. The walks are very pleasant by the river side. I went by its banck of one end of the town to the meeteing house w^ch stands just by the River, there was a Company of hearers at Least 300, w^ch on the Consideration of its being under the Dropings of y^e Cathedrall its very well. They have a very good minister there, but its New-Castle that has the greate meeteing place and many Descenters; they have two very Eminent men one of their Name was D^r Gilpin whose book I have read in, but he not being at home Could not have the advantage of hearing him.

In the Evening I walk’d out at Durham to another part of the town, by another turn of the river along by its Banck, and the river here would meete were it not for a Ridge of a hill runs between, it in w^ch are buildings and ascends up a mile in Length, w^ch is one of the Parishes. In walking by this river we Came to S^r Charles Musgroves House w^ch is now old and ruinous but has been good. The Gardens are flourishing still w^th good walks and much ffruite of w^ch I tasted; its a place that is used Like our Spring Gardens for the Company of the town to walk in the Evening, and its most pleasant by the river, w^ch by means of severall bays or wires which is of Rock, the waters has greate falls from thence, w^ch adds a murmuring sound acceptable to the people passing. They have good ffish in the river but its full of rocks; they talk much of makeing it Navigeable but I ffancy the many Rocks all along in it will render it a Difficult work. I went a mile to see the spaw waters and to see a salt spring in the Rock in the middle of y^e river. In halfe a mile I came to a well w^ch had a stone Bason in it and an arch of stone over it; the taste was Like y^e Sweete Spaw in Yorkshire and the Tunbridge waters.

182 About halfe a mile farther I Came to a well w^ch is Like the Sulpher Spaw, taste and Looke agreeing thereto, w^ch is from brimstone, but its not quite soe strong for it was a Longer tyme before the silver was Changed in it. Here I went a very bad and hazardous passage full of stones Like stepps, the water trilling Down them, and a very narrow passage by the Bushes and Bancks, but when I was got in there was noe returning, so on I went to the river w^ch was a Large step to goe down into, and all the river full of Shelves and Rocks.

The Spring is in the Cleft of the Rocks w^ch stands up in the river, and soe springs up, but when much raines falls it washes down soe fast upon it that weakens the taste. From this place I came back againe a mile. Durham has about 7 Churches w^th the Cathedrall, its a noble place and the aire so Cleer and healthy that persons Enjoy much health and pleasure. From thence to Darlington w^ch is 14 pretty Long miles but good way, but by the way I Lost some of my nightCloths and Little things in a Bundle that the Guide I hired Carry’d. This is a Little Market town, the Market day was on Munday w^ch was the day I passed through it: it was a great Market of all things, a great quantety of Cattle of all sorts but mostly Beeves—it seemes once in a fortnight its much fuller. Two miles from Darlington I Came to the Ground the Hell Kettles are they talk much of, its in Grounds just by the road where Cattle were ffeeding, there are 2 pooles or ponds of Water the one Larger than y^e other; y^e biggest seemed to me not to be the Deepest nor is it Esteem’d soe deep; there was some sedge or flaggs growing round that, but y^e fathermost w^ch was not soe bigg Looked a Cross that had noe flaggs or sedge on its bancks but yet it Look’d to me to Cast a green hew, Roleing waves of the water just in Coullour as the sea, and as the wind moved the water it very much resembled the sea, but the water when taken up in y^e hand Look’d White and y^e taste was not the Least brackish but fresh. My Conception of the Cause of y^e greenish Coullour was from the greate depth of water, for the reason they Call them Hell Kettles is that there is noe sounding a 183bottom, w^ch has been try’d by plumet and Line severall ffathoms down; the water is Cold and as any other water when took up, it seemes not to Decrease in a tyme of Drought nor to advance w^th great raines, it draines itself insensibly into y^e ground.

This Leads me the ffarthest way to Richmond it being but 8 mile the ready Road from Darlington to Richmond, but this way it was 10 miles and very tedious miles. Three miles off Darlington I passed over Crafton Bridge which Crosses y^e river Teese which Divides Durham ffrom Yorkshire, and soe Entred the North Rideing of Yorkshire in which is that they Call Richmondshire a shire of 30 miles. The way was good but Long, I went through Lanes and woods an Enclosed Country; I passed by a house of S^r Mark Melborn on a hill, a Brick building and severall towers on the top, good gardens and severall rows of trees up to the house, it standing on a hill, y^e trees Runns along on y^e Ridge of y^e same—Looks very finely.

Richmondshire has in it 5 waking takes as they Call them, answerable to that they Call hundreds in other Countys; Each waking takes has market towns in them and are under a Baliffe Each, which are nominated by the Earle of Holderness who is the Sole Lord of the whole—its 30 mile in Extent. Richmond town one cannot see till just upon it, being Encompass’d w^th great high hills: I descended a very steep hill to it from whence saw the whole town which itself stands on a hill tho’ not so high as these by it. Its buildings are all stone, y^e streetes are Like rocks themselves, there is a very Large space for the Markets w^ch are Divided for the ffish market, fflesh market, and Corn; there is a Large market Crosse, a square space walled in with severall steps up, and its flatt on the top and of a good height. There is by it a Large Church and the ruines of a Castle, the pieces of the walls on a hill. I walked round by the walls, the River running beneath a great descent to it, its full of stones and Rocks and soe very Easye to Make or keep up their wires or falls of water, w^ch in some places is naturall y^t y^e water falls over Rocks w^th great force w^ch is Convenient for Catching Salmon by speare when they Leap 184over those Bayes. All rivers are Low and Dryer in the Summer soe I saw them at the greatest disadvantage being in some places almost drye and the Rocks and stones appear bare, but by those high and Large stone bridges I pass’d w^ch Lay aCross the Rivers shewd the Great Depth and breadth they used to be y^e Winter tymes. There was two good houses in y^e town, one was M^r Darcys the Earle of Holderness’ brother, the other was M^r Yorkes, both stood then and were Chosen Parliament men. They had good gardens walled in, all stone, as in the whole town, though I must say it Looks Like a sad shatter’d town and fallen much to Decay and Like a Disregarded place. I passed on towards Burrowbridge and Came not farre from Hornby Castle the Earle of Holderness, and also Suddber hall 2 mile off Richmond M^r Darcys house; this Road was much on Lanes w^ch were narrow but Exceeding Long, some 3 or 4 mile before you Came to any open place and then I Came to a Common w^ch was as tedious to me, at Least 5 or 6 mile before I Came to an End of it, then I pass’d through a few Little villages and so I Came the 19 mile to Burrowbridge in Yorkshire. Here I was the most sensible of the Long Yorkshire Miles, this North Rideing of that County is much Longer Miles than the other parts which I had been in before. At Burrowbridge I pass’d the River Lid or Ouse on a Large stone Bridge: this River affords very good ffish, salmon and Codffish and plenty of Crawffish. Here I met w^th the Clutter of y^e Chooseing Parliament men. Thence I went for Knarsebrough 5 mile more; this dayes journey was a Long 24 miles, jndeed y^e wayes were very good and drye being y^e midst of summer. Here I Came to my old Landlady Mason where I Lay the yeare before to Drink the spaw, and from thence I went to Harragate over Knarsbrough fforest to Leeds 12 mile, and I went by Harwood Castle—the ruined walls some remaines. It was much in Lanes and uphills and Down hills, some Little part was open Common; on the Hill that Leads down to the town gives a pleaseing prospect of it. Leeds is a Large town, severall Large streetes, Cleane and well pitch’d and good houses all built of stone. Some have good Gardens and Steps up to their 185houses and walls before them. This is Esteemed the Wealthyest town of its bigness in the Country its manufacture is y^e woollen Cloth—the Yorkshire Cloth in w^ch they are all Employ’d and are Esteemed very Rich and very proud. They have provision soe plentiful y^t they may Live w^th very Little Expense and get much variety; here if one Calls for a tankard of Ale w^ch is allwayes a groate its the only dear thing all over Yorkshire, their ale is very strong, but for paying this Groat for yo^ur ale you may have a slice of meate Either hott or Cold according to the tyme of day you Call, or Else butter and Cheese Gratis into the bargaine; this was a Generall Custom in most parts of Yorkshire but now they have almost Changed it, and tho’ they still retaine the great price for the ale, yet Make strangers pay for their meate, and at some places at great rates, notwithstanding how Cheape they have all their provision. There is still this Custome on a Market day at Leeds, the sign of ye bush just by the Bridge, any body y^t will goe and Call for one tanchard of ale and a pinte of wine and pay for these only shall be set to a table to Eate w^th 2 or 3 dishes of good meate and a dish of sweetmeates after. Had I known this and y^e Day w^ch was their Market I would have Come then but I happened to Come a day after y^e market, however I did only pay for 3 tankards of ale and w^t I Eate, and my servants was gratis. This town is full of discenters, there are 2 Large meeting places, here is also a good schoole for young Gentlewomen; the streetes are very broad, the Market Large. Thence I went to Eland 12 long mile more pretty much steep, up hills and down the same. I crossed over a River at Leeds on a Large stone bridge; y^e Country is much on Enclosures, good ground.

I goe by quarreys of stone and pitts of Coales w^ch are both very good, soe that for fewell and building as well as good grounds for feeding Cattle and for Corne they are so well provided that together with their Industry they must needs be very Rich. All the hills about Eland is full of jnclosures and Coverts of wood y^t Looks very pleasant. This town gives title to y^e Marquis Hallifax son, as does Hallifax to y^e Marquis. This Lyes but 5 or 6 mile hence, its a stony 186town and the roads to it soe stony and difficult y^t I was Discouraged in going, the town now being almost ruined and Come to Decay, and y^e Engine that that town was famous for to behead their Criminalls at one stroake w^th a pully this was destroyed since their Charter or Liberty was Lost or taken from them, because most barbarously and rigourously acted Even w^th an absolute power w^ch they had of all y^e town; on those Informations I resolved not to goe to that ragged town tho’ there are many good people and a Large meeteing.

From Eland I went to y^e Blackstone Edge 8 mile, when I had gone 3 of the miles I Came to a great Precipice or vast descent of a hill as full of stones as if paved and Exceedingly steep; I take it to be much steeper than Blackstone Edge tho’ not soe long. Y^e End of this steep was a Little village all stony alsoe. These parts have some resemblance to Darbyshire only here are more woody places and jnclosures. Then I Came to Blackstone Edge noted all over England for a dismal high precipice and steep in the ascent and descent on Either End; its a very moorish ground all about and Even just at the top, tho’ so high, that you travel on a Causey w^ch is very troublesome as its a moist ground soe as is usual on these high hills; they stagnate the aire and hold mist and raines almost perpetually. As I ascended, y^e Morning was pretty faire, but a sort of mist met me and small raine just as I attained y^e top, w^ch made me feare a wet day and y^t the aire would have been so thick to have quite Lost me y^e sight of y^e Country, but when I attained y^e top where is a great heap raised up w^ch parts Yorkshire—and there I entred Lancashire—the mist began to Lessen, and as I descended on this side y^e ffog more and more went off and a Little raine fell tho’ at a Little distance in our view, the sun shone on y^e vale w^ch Indeed is of a Large Extent here, and y^e advantage of soe high a hill w^ch is at Least 2 mile up discovers the grounds beneath as a fruitfull valley full of jnclosures and Cut hedges and trees. That w^ch adds to the formidableness of Blackstone Edge is that on y^e one hand you have a vast precipice almost the whole way both as 187one ascends and descends, and in some places y^e precipice is on Either hand. This hill took me up Much tyme to gaine the top and alsoe to descend it and put me in mind of the Description of y^e Alpes in Italy, where the Clouds drive all about and as it were below them, w^ch descends Lower into Mists, then into raines and soe tho’ on the top it hold snow and haile falling on the passengers, w^ch at Length the Lower they go Comes into raine and so into sun-shine—at the foote of those valleys, fruitfull, y^e sunshine and singing of birds. This was y^e accō My father gave of those Alps when he passed them and I Could not but think this Carryed some resemblance tho’ in Little, yet a proportion to that.

From y^e foot of this Blackstone I went to Rochdale 4 mile, a pretty neate town built all of stone; here I went to an acquaintances house M^r Taylor and was Civilly Entertained. Here is a good Large Meeteing place well filled; these parts Religion does better flourish than in places where they have better advantages. Here I observ’d the Grounds were all Enclosed with Quicksetts Cut smoothe and as Even on fine Green Bancks, and as well kept as for a Garden, and so most of my way to Manchester I Rode between such hedges, its a thing remarked by most their great Curiosity in this kind.

Manchester Lookes exceedingly well at the Entrance,—very substantiall buildings, the houses are not very Lofty but mostly of Brick and stone, the old houses are timber work; there is a very Large Church all stone and stands high soe that walking round the Churchyard you see the whole town. There is good Carving in wood in the Quire of y^e Church and severall Little Chappells where in are some Little Monuments; there is one that was y^e founder of y^e Colledge and Library where hangs his pictures, for just by the Church is the Colledge w^ch is a pretty neate building w^th a Large space for y^e boys to play in, and a good Garden walled in; there are 60 blew Coate boys in it, I saw their appartments and was in the Cellars and Dranke of their beer w^ch was very good; I alsoe saw y^e Kitchen and saw their bread Cutting for their supper and their piggins 188for their beer. There is a Cloyster round a Court, in it is a Large roome for y^e judges to Eate in, and also for y^e roomes for heareing and dispatching their buissness, there is a Large Library—2 Long walls full of books on Each side,—there is alsoe y^e globes at y^e End and Maps, there is alsoe a Long whispering trumpet, and there I saw y^e skinn of y^e Rattle Snake 6 ffoote Long w^th many other Curiositys, their anatomy of a man wired together, a jaw of a shark; there was a very ffine Clock and weather glass. Out of y^e Library there are Leads on w^ch one has the sight of y^e town w^ch is Large, as alsoe y^e other town that Lyes below it Called Salfor and is Divided from this by the river Ouall over w^ch is a stone bridge w^th many arches. Salfor has only a Little Chappell of Ease and is belonging to y^e Parish of Manchester.

There is another river Called the Shark w^ch runs into y^e Uval. The market place is Large, it takes up two streetes Length when the Market is kept for their Linnen Cloth, Cottentickings w^th is the manufacture of y^e town. Here is a very fine Schoole for young Gentlewomen as good as any in London, and musick and danceing and things are very plenty here—this is a thriveing place. Hence I went a very pleasant roade Much on y^e downs mostly Campion ground, some few Enclosures, I went by Dunum the Earle of Warringtons house w^ch stands in a very fine parcke, it stands Low but appeared very well to sight, its old fashioned building w^ch appeares more in y^e Inside, and the furniture old, but good gardens walled in. I also passed by severall Gentlemens seates, one was M^r Cholmonlys, another M^r Listers, surrounded w^th good Walks and shady trees in rows, and severall Large pooles of water some Containeing severall acres. I passed over two or three stone bridges Cross Little rivers, so to Norwitch w^ch is 14 mile. I Entred Cheshire 3 mile before I Came to y^e town, its not very Large, its full of Salt works the brine pitts being all here about, and so they make all things Convenient to follow y^e makeing the salt so y^t y^e town is full of smoak from y^e salterns on all sides. They have within these few yeares found in their brine 189pitts a hard Rocky salt that Lookes Cleer Like Suger Candy and its taste shews it to be salt, they Call this Rock salt, it will make very good brine w^th fresh water to use quickly. This they Carry to the water side into Wales and by those Rivers that are flow’d w^th y^e tyde, and soe they boile these pieces of Rock in some of the salt water when y^e tyde’s in, w^ch produces as strong and good salt as the others. Thence I went to Sandy head 3 mile farther. There was 12 salterns together at Norwitch—all y^e witches are places they make salt in—Nantwitch and Droctwitch they make salt, for at Each place they have the salt hills where the brine pits springs: this is not farre from y^e place whence they digg the mill stones.

From Sandy Lane head where I baited, to Whit Church is 16 long miles over a Long heath for 4 or 5 mile, then to Bestonwood and Came by Beston Castle on a very high hill, y^e walls remaineing round it, w^ch I Left a Little on my Right hand just at y^e foote of y^e hill, and so I Crossed y^e great Road w^ch Comes from Nantwitch to Chester being then just y^e midd way to Either, being 7 mile to Each. There I think I may say was y^e only tyme I had reason to suspect I was Engaged w^th some highway men. 2 fellows all on a suddain from y^e wood fell into y^e Road, they Look’d truss’d up w^th great Coates and as it were bundles about them w^ch I believe was pistolls, but they dogg’d me one before y^e other behind and would often Look back to Each other, and frequently justle my horse out of y^e way to get between one of my servants horses and mine, and when they first Came up to us did disown their knowledge of y^e way and would often stay a little behind and talke together, then Come up againe, but the providence of God so order’d it as there was men at work in y^e fields haymakeing, and it being market day at WhitChurch, as I drew neer to y^t in 3 or 4 mile was Continually met w^th some of y^e market people, so they at Last Called Each other off and soe Left us and turned back; but as they Rode w^th us 3 or 4 miles at Last they described the places we should Come by, and a high pillar finely painted in y^e Road about 3 mile off of Whitchurch (w^ch accordingly we saw as we pass’d on) w^ch shew’d 190them noe strangers to y^e Road as they at first pretended. I passed over a Little brooke a mile before I Came to WhitChurch w^ch Entred me into Shropshire. This is a Large market town, here are two very fine gardens, one belongs to an apothecary, full of all fruites and greens; y^e other was at y^e Crown jnn where I staid, it was exceeding neate w^th oring and Lemmon trees, Mirtle, striped and gilded hollytrees, box and ffilleroy finely Cut, and ffirrs and merumsuratum w^ch makes the fine snuff, and fine flowers all things almost in a little tract of Garden Ground. From thence its 14 mile to Shrewsbury and pretty Level way. Ye miles were long and y^e wind blew very Cold, I went on a Causey 2 or 3 miles to y^e town, so y^t in y^e winter the way is bad and deep but on the Causey.

Y^e town stands Low, y^e spires of 2 of y^e Churches stand high and appear Eminent above y^e town, there is y^e remaines of a Castle, y^e walls and battlements and some towers w^ch I walked round, from whence had y^e whole view of y^e town w^ch is walled round w^th battlements and walks round, some of which I went on. Its here the fine river Severn Encompasses y^e greatest part of y^e town and twines and twists its self about, its not very broad here but its very deep and is Esteemed y^e finest river in England to Carry such a depth of water for 80 or more miles together Ere it runns into y^e sea w^ch is at Bristol. This Comes out of Wales, Ross and Monmouthshire, there it turns about and Comes to y^e town. On Each side there are 3 bridges over it, in y^e town one of them y^t I walked over had some few houses built on it, as London bridge, at one End of it. Its pleasant to walk by y^e river; there is just by it the Councill house an old building. Here are three free schooles together, built of free stone, 3 Large roomes to teach the Children, w^th severall masters. Y^e first has 150£ a year y^e second 100 y^e third 50^£ a year and teach Children from reading English till fit for y^e University, and its free for Children not only of y^e town but for all over England if they Exceed not y^e numbers. Here is a very fine Market Cross of stone Carv’d, in another place there is an Exchequer or hall for y^e towns affaires, 191there is alsoe a hall for y^e Welsh manufacture. There is a water house w^ch supplys y^e town through pipes w^th water, but its drawn up w^th horses and it seemes not to be a good and Easye way, so they jntend to make it with a water Engine in the town. There are many good houses but mostly old buildings, timber; there is some remaines of a great abbey and just by it y^e great Church, but nothing fine or worth notice save y^e abbey Gardens w^th gravell walks set full of all sorts of greens—orange and Lemmon trees: I had a paper of their flowers—were very fine,—there was alsoe ffirrs, myrtles and hollys of all sorts and a green house full of all sorts of Curiosityes of flowers and greens—there was y^e aloes plant. Out of this went another Garden much Larger w^th severall fine grass walks kept Exactly Cut and roled for Company to walke in. Every Wednesday most of y^e town y^e Ladyes and Gentlemen walk there as in S^t James’ parke, and there are abundance of people of Quality Lives in Shrewsbury, more than in any town Except Nottingham; its true there are noe fine houses but there are many Large old houses that are Convenient and stately, and its a pleasant town to Live in and great plenty w^ch makes it Cheap Living. This is very near bordering on Wales and was reckon’d formerly one of y^e Welsh County’s as was Herifordshire. Here is a very good schoole for young Gentlewomen for Learning work and behaviour and musick.

From Shrewsbury I went through the great ffaire w^ch was just kept that day there, full of all sorts of things and all the roade for 10 mile at Least I met y^e people and Commoditys going to the ffaire. 2 mile thence I passed over the River Cern on a Large stone bridge, this is deep and joyns the Severn and soe I Rode by the great hill Called the Reeke noted for the highest piece of ground in England, but it must be by those that only Live in the heart of y^e Kingdom and about London, for there are much higher hills in the north and West and alsoe not 40 mile distant from it; Manborn hills seems vastly higher. This hill stands just by itself a round hill and does raise its head much above y^e hills neare it, and on the one side does Looke a great steepe down, but still my thoughts of the 192ffells in Cumberland and Westmoreland are soe farr beyond it in height that this would not be mentioned there; it is seen 20 mile off and soe may many other hills, but when I Rode just under it I was full Convinc’d its height was not in Compẽtion w^th those in other parts that I have seen.

There are great hills all about w^ch I pass’d over full of Coale pitts. Here I Came into y^e Whatling Streete w^ch is one of y^e great roads of England w^ch divided y^e Land into so many Kingdoms under y^e Saxons. The roads are pretty good but y^e miles are Long, from Shrewsbury to y^e Reeke is 9 mile, from thence to S^r Thomas Patsells house 10 mile more; here I went to see his Gardens w^ch are talk’d off as y^e finest and best kept, y^e house is old and Low, if y^e Gentleman had Lived he Did design a new house, its now his sons who is an Infant. Before you Come to y^e house for a quarter of a mile you Ride between fine Cut hedges, and y^e nearer y^e approach the finer still, they are very high and Cut Smoothe and Even just Like y^e hedges at Astrop waters, and of Each side beyond are woods, some regular Rows, some in its native Rudeness, w^th ponds beyond in grounds beneath it. Y^e End of this walke you Enter a Large gate of open Iron grates, w^th as many more jron grates on Each side as the Breadth of y^e gate, opposite to this is just another that opens into those grounds I first mention’d. There is a Large pitched Court w^th some open jron gates and grates at Each End, y^t gives the visto quite a Cross through to other Rows of trees w^ch runs up all about y^e severall avenues.

In this Court stands two Dyals between w^ch is an open gate and pallasadoes, the whole breadth of y^e front of this jron work w^ch Leads to the jnner Court, and on y^e other side just in front, is another Large gate Carv’d Iron w^th pillars brick and stone and flower potts; and on Each side to take the whole Breadth of y^e house to w^ch it faces and soe give the sight of the garden is open pallisadoes, and a Little beyond are two more such open Pallisadoes that are Corner wayes, and discovers the Groves whose walks Looks Every way, so y^t to stand in this outward Court you May see the house, and Court full of statues in Grass plotts, w^th 193a broad pav’d walke to the house. In y^e middle on y^e one side are flower gardens and y^e parke, y^e other side other grounds w^th rows of trees and by it very handsome stables and Coach houses, and then in the ffront this Large opening to this garden where is a ffountaine all wayes playing very high, the water, the Gravel walks, and fine flowers and greens of all sorts in potts and on the borders. This gate I mention’d had brick pillars w^th stone heads on w^ch stood a turky Cock on each Cut in stone and painted proper. Y^e grove I mention’d is the finest I Ever saw, there are six walks thro’ it and just in the Middle you Look twelve wayes w^ch Discovers as Many severall prospects, Either to y^e house or Entrance or fountaines or Gardens or ffields. The Grove itself is peculiar being Composed of all sorts of greens that hold their verdure and beauty all the yeare, and flourishes most in y^e winter season when all other Garden beautys fades, of ffirrs, both silver, Scots, Noroway, Cyprus, Yew, Bays &c; the severall squares being set full of these Like a Maze; they are Compassed round Each square w^th a hedge of Lawrell about a y^d high Cut Exactly smooth and Even, there are also box trees in the middle. There are two other Large Gardens w^th Gravell walkes, and grass plotts full of stone statues, the stone is taken out of y^e quarry’s about this Country, w^ch is not a very firme stone and so the Weather Cracks them.

In one of these Gardens just the side of y^e house into w^ch it opens w^th glass doors and just over against it is a Large Avery of birds w^th branches of trees stuck into the Ground; by it is a Little Summer house neately painted, beyond this is another Garden w^th a broad Gravel walke quite round. In the middle is a Long as well as Large ffountaine or pond w^ch is Called a sheete of water, at y^e four Corners are seates shelter’d behind and on y^e top and sides w^th boards painted, on w^ch you sit secured from the weather, and Looks on the water w^ch has 348 Lead pipes at y^e brims of it w^ch takes in the sides and End and w^th the turning a sluce they streame at once into the fountaine w^ch Looks well and makes a pleaseing sound. If those pipes were but turned in a bow it would Cast the water in an 194arch and so would augment the Beauty of y^e prospect. There are 2 Large Images stands in the Midst y^t Cast out water and 4 sea horses all Casting out water. In the other Gardens there were Little figures w^ch bedewed the borders w^th their showers.

This Large pond I spoke of before is very deep and good ffish Encreasing in it. There is another great pond in a ground beyond, w^ch Lyes to view thro’ those green pallasadoes and is stored w^th much good ffish. Thence I went to Aubery 2 miles, a Little Market town, thence to Pauckeridge and passed through some parcks w^ch belongs to some Gentlemens seate. I went by one M^r Peirpoynts, and S^r Walter Rochlys house, w^ch stands on a hill in a thicket of trees, and soe Came againe to the Whatling-street way and soe over Kankewood to Woolsly—in all 14 mile ffarther. From Woolsly to Haywood parke 2 mile, and home againe 2 mile, from Woolsley to Kanktown 6 mile, thence to Woolverhampton 6 mile. I went more in sight of S^r Walter Rochly w^ch stands very finely on a hill and woods by it—Lookes very stately. These miles are very Long thro’ Lanes. I passed by a fine house Prestwitch M^r Philip Ffolies, a pretty seate in a parke, a mile beyond there is another house of y^e same Gentlemans. Here we had y^e Inconveniency of meeteing the Sherriffs of Staffordshire Just going to provide for y^e Reception of y^e Judges and officers of y^e Assizes, whose Coaches and Retinue Meeteing our Company w^ch was encreased w^th Cosen Ffiennes’ Coach and horsemen, w^ch made us difficult to pass Each other in the hollow wayes and Lanes.

Thence to the Seven Starres where we baited, thence 2 miles ffarther we Entred out of Staffordshire into Worcestershire to Broad water, a place where are severall ffullers and Dyers mills.

Thence on y^e Right hand are fforging mills for jron works w^ch belong to M^r Tho: Ffolie, there is a Rocky hill in w^ch is a Roome Cut out in the Rocks.

On y^e Left hand you goe 7 mile to Ambusly, a very sad heavy way all sand, you goe just at Kederminster town End w^ch is a Large town much Employ’d about y^e worstead 195trade, spinning and weaving. We also Rode by S^r John Packingtons house on the Left hand on the hill just by Droitwitch where are the 3 salt springs, divided by a ffresh spring that runs by it; of this salt water they boyle much salt that turns to good amount. All y^e way from the Seven Starrs where we baited to Ambusly y^e Road was full of y^e Electers of y^e Parliament men Coming from the Choice of y^e Knights of the Shire, w^ch spake as they were affected, some for one some for another, and some were Larger in their judgments than others, telling their reason much according to the good Liquors operation, and of these people all the publick houses were filled that it was a hard Matter to get Lodging or Entertainm^t.

We entered Worcester town next day just as y^e Cerimony of the Election was performing, and soe they Declared it in favour of M^r Welsh and S^r John Packington. 4 mile more to this town—from broad water in all is 11 mile. Worcester town w^ch is washed by the river Severn is a Large Citty—12 Churches, the streetes most of them broad, the buildings some of them are very good and Lofty, its Encompass’d w^th a wall w^ch has 4 gates that are very strong. The Market place is Large, there is a Guildhall besides the Market house w^ch stands on pillars of stone. The Cathedrall stands in a Large yard, pitch’d, its a Lofty Magnificent building, the Quire has good Wood Carv’d and a pretty organ, there is one tombstone stands in the Middle of y^e quire by the railes on which Lyes the Effigies of King John, the Left side of alter is prince Arthurs tomb of plaine Marble in a ffine Chappell w^ch is made all of stone ffinely Carv’d, both the Inside and the outside is very Curiously Carv’d in all sorts of works and Arms, beasts and flowers, under it Lyes the statues of severall Bishops, beyond this are two tombstones w^th y^e ffigure of y^e body in their proper dress, of 2 Saxon Bishops on y^e pavement.

The painting of y^e Windows are good and they are pretty Large and Lofty tho’ Nothing Comparable to the Cathedrall at york. The tower is high and about the Middle of it you may walke round y^e Inside and Look down into the body of y^e Church just as it is in york. 196Just against y^e pulpit in y^e body of the Church is a Little organ to set the Psalme. Y^e ffont is all of white marble and a Carv’d Cover of wood.

From Worcester we pass’d a Large stone bridge over the Severn on w^ch were many Barges that were tow’d up by strength of men 6 or 8 at a tyme.

The water just by the town Encompasses a Little piece of Ground full of Willows and so makes it an jsland, part of w^ch turns Mills. Thence I went 4 mile where I Cross y^e River Thames on a stone Bridge, this runs to Whitborne and is a very Rapid Streame Especially after raines, w^ch Just before we begun our Journey had fallen and made the roads, w^ch are all Lanes full of stones and up hills and down, so steep that w^th y^e raines y^e waters stood or Else ran down y^e hills, w^ch made it Exceeding bad for travelling. When we had gone 7 mile, at a Little Parish, you Enter out of Worcester into Herriffordshire and soe 7 mile ffarther to Stretton Grandsorm and new house, my Cos’n Fiennes’s. This is the worst way I ever went in Worcester or Herriffordshire, its allwayes a deep sand and soe in the winter and w^th muck is bad way, but this being in August it was strange and being so stony made it more Difficult to travell. From thence I went to Stoake 4 miles, where I saw M^r Folies new house w^ch was building and will be very ffine when Compleated. There is to be 3 flat ffronts to y^e Gardens sides; the Right Wing of y^e house is the severall appartments for the ffamily, 2 drawing roomes and bed Chambers and Closets opening both on a terrass of free stone pavements, Each End and the middle there is stone stepps goes down on Each side, w^th half paces to the garden w^ch is by more stepps descending one below another. The other wing is to y^e other Garden and are to be Roomes of State w^ch Lookes towards Herrifford town. this is to be Coupled together w^th a Large Hall w^ch Composes the ffront and is of stone work, the rest is brick only Coyn’d w^th stone and y^e windows stone, and is in forme of a halfe moone Each side w^th arches to the several offices and stables. To this ffront w^ch is to be the Entrance Large opening Iron spike gates w^ch Lookes into their Grounds and Meddowes below it, of 197a Great Length w^th Rows of trees to y^e river. The Roofe is Cover’d w^th slatt w^ch shines and very much represents Lead, its adorn’d round y^e Edges w^th stone ffigures and flower potts. There is a noble parck and woods behind—it will be very ffine when ffinished, now I saw it only in the outside shell and platt form. thence I returned to Newhouse 4 mile. Thence I went to Canaan Ffroom a mile and one mile back w^ch was 2 mile more, then to Stretton four tymes and back w^ch was 8 mile, then from Newhouse to Aldbery 5 miles, thence to Marlow 3 mile and there Entred Gloucestershire. They are pretty long miles and in the winter deep way, though now it was pretty good travelling its 8 mile beyond to Glocestertown tho’ in most places near London this would be reckon’d 20 miles; you may see the town 4 miles off. Glocester town Lyes all along on the bancks of y^e Severn and soe Look’d Like a very huge place, being stretch’d out in Length, its a Low Moist place therefore one must travel on Causeys which are here in good repaire. I pass’d over a Bridge where two armes of the river meetes where y^e tyde is very high and rowles in the sand in many places and Causes those Whirles or Hurricanes that will Come on storms w^th great jmpetuosity.

Thence I proceeded over another Bridge into y^e town whose streetes are very well pitch’d, Large and Cleane. There is a faire Market place and Hall for y^e assizes w^ch happened just as we Came there, soe had y^e worst Entertainem^t and noe accomodation but in a private house. Things ought not to be Deare here, but Strangers are allwayes imposed on and at such a publick tyme alsoe they make their advantages. Here is a very Large good Key on the river, they are supply’d w^th Coales by y^e shipps and Barges w^ch makes it plentifull; they Carry it on sledges thro’ y^e town—its the great Warwickshire Coale I saw unloading. Here they follow knitting stockings, gloves wauscoates and peticoates and sleeves all of Cotten, and others spinn the Cottens. The Cathedrall or minster is Large, Lofty and very neate, the Quire pretty. At y^e Entrance there is a seate over head for y^e Bishop to sit in to hear the sermon preached in y^e body of y^e Church, and therefore the organ 198is in the Quire on one side w^ch used to be at y^e Entrance. There was a tomb stone in y^e middle w^th a statue of Duke Roberts, second son to William the Conquerours son, w^th his Legs across as is the manner of all those that went to the holy warre; this is painted and resembles marble tho’ it is but wood and soe Light as by one ffinger you may move it up, there is an jron Grate over it. At y^e alter the painting is soe ffine that y^e tapistry and pillars and ffigure of Moses and Aaron soe much to the Life you would at Least think it Carv’d. There are 12 Chappells all stone finely Carv’d on y^e walls and rooffs, the windows are pretty Large and high w^th very good painting, there is a Large window just over y^e Alter but between it and y^e alter is a hollow walled in on each side w^ch is a Whispering place; speake never so Low just in the Wall at one End the person at y^e other End shall heare it plaine tho’ those w^ch stand by you shall not heare you speake—its y^e Wall Carrys y^e voyce. This seems not quite soe wonderfull as I have heard, for y^e Large roome in Mountague house soe remarkable for fine painting I have been in it, and when y^e Doores are shutt its so well suited in y^e Walls you Cannot tell where to find the Doore if a stranger, and its a Large roome Every way. I saw a Lady stand at one Corner and turn herself to the wall and whisper’d, y^e voice Came very Cleer and plaine to y^e Company that stood at y^e Crosse Corner y^e roome soe y^t it Could not be Carry’d by y^e side wall, it must be the arch overhead w^ch was a great height.—But to return to y^e Church, the tower was 203 stepps, the Large bell I stood upright in but it was not so bigg as y^e great Tom of Lincoln, this bell at Glocester is raised by ten and rung by 6 men. On the tower Leads you have a prospect of y^e whole town, gardens and buildings and grounds beyond and y^e river Severn in its twistings and windings. Here are y^e fine Lamprys taken in great quantetys in their season, of w^ch they make pyes and potts and Convey them to London or Else where, such a present being fitt for a king; this and y^e Charr fish are Equally rare and valuable. Here are very good Cloysters finely adorn’d with ffretwork, here is the Colledge and Library but not stored w^th many books. 199I think this was all the remarkable in Glocester. From thence I went in Company all this while w^th my Cos’n Ffilmer and family. We Came to Nymphsffield after having ascended a very steep narrow and stony hill, 10 mile to Nympsfield all bad way, but the 20 mile afterwards made up for its badness, for these were Exceeding good wayes. 2 mile to Cold harbour thence 15 Landsdon—Long, but bowling green way. Here I passed by Babington, the Duke of Beaufforts house stands in a Parke on an advanc’d Ground w^th rows of trees on all sides w^ch runns a good Length, and you may stand on y^e Leads and Look 12 wayes down to y^e parishes and Grounds beyond all thro Glides or visto of trees. The Gardens are very fine and water works. On Landsdon hill Summersetshire begins w^ch is a very pleasant hill for to Ride on for aire and prospect; I went 3 mile over it w^ch Leads to y^e Bath down a vast steep descent of a stony narrow way as is all y^e wayes down into y^e town. The Bath is a pretty place full of good houses all for y^e accomodation of the Company that resort thither to Drink or Bathe in the summer. The streetes are faire and well pitch’d, they Carry most things on sledges, and y^e Company all y^e morning y^e Chaires of Bayes to Carry them to the Bath—soe they have the Chaire or Sedan to Carry them in visits. There is a very fine hall w^ch is set on stone pillars w^ch they use for y^e balls and dancing. This is the only new thing since I was at y^e Bath before, Except the fine adornements on y^e Cross in the Cross bath, fine Carving of stone w^th the English arms and Saints and Cupids, according to the phaneze and Religion of King James the Seconds Queen Mary of Modina, as part of her thanks and acknowledgments to y^e saints or Virgin Mary for the Welsh Prince she Imposed on us. From the Bath I went westward to Bristol over Landsdown 10 mile, and passed thro’ Kingswood and was met w^th a great many horses passing and returning Loaden w^th Coales Dug just thereabout; they give 12 pence a horse Load w^ch Carrys two Bushells, it makes very good ffires, this is y^e Cakeing Coale. Bristol Lyes Low in a bottom the Greatest part of the town, tho’ one End of it you have a pretty rise of ground.

200 There are 19 Parish Churches beside the Cathedrall, w^ch has nothing fine or Curious in it. The Buildings of y^e town are pretty high, most of timber work, the streetes are narrow and something Darkish because the roomes on y^e upper storys are more jutting out, soe Contracts y^e streete and the Light. The Suburbs are better buildings and more spacious streetes. There are at one place as you Enter the town 2 almshouses, 6 men and 6 women a piece at Each. There is alsoe at another part of y^e town a Noble almshouse more Like a Gentlemans house, y^t is all of stone work, a handsome Court w^th gates and Pallisadoes before four grass plotts divided by paved walks and a walk round y^e same. The one side is for y^e women the other for y^e men, the middle building is 2 Kitchins for Either and a middle roome in Common for washing and brewing, over all is a Chappell. They have Gardens behind it w^th all things Convenient. They have their Coales and 3 shillings p^r weeke allowed to Each to maintain them, this is for decayed tradesmen and wives that have Lived well; its set up and allowed to by M^r Coleson a merch^t in London. This town is a very great tradeing Citty as most In England, and is Esteemed the Largest next London. The river Aven y^t is flowed up by the sea into y^e Severn and soe up the Aven to the town, Beares shipps and Barges up to the Key, where I saw y^e harbour was full of shipps carrying Coales and all sorts of Commodityes to other parts. The bridge is built over w^th houses just as London bridge is, but its not so bigg or Long—there are 4 arches here. They have Little boates w^ch are Call’d Wherryes such as we use on the Thames, soe they use them here to Convey persons from place to place, and in many places there are signes to many houses that are not Publick houses just as it is in London, the streetes are well pitch’d, and preserved by their useing sleds to Carry all things about. There is a very faire market place and an Exchange set on stone Pillars. In another place there is a very high and magnificent Cross built all of y^e stone or sort of Marble of y^e Country, its in the manner of Coventry Cross a Piramedy fform running up of a great height, w^th severall divisions in nitches where is King Johns 201Effigy and severall other, adorned w^th armes and figures of Beasts and birds and flowers. Great part of it Gilt and painted and soe terminates in a spire on y^e top, the Lower part is white Like Marble. Just by the water side is a Long rope yard w^ch is Encompass’d w^th trees on Either side w^ch are Lofty and shady, therefore its made Choice of for y^e Company of y^e town to take y^e Diversion of walking in the Evening. This Compasses round a Large space of ground w^ch is Called y^e marsh—a green ground. There was noe remaines of the Castle. There are 12 gates to y^e Citty, there is a very Large Conduit by y^e Key finely Carv’d, all stone, this Conveys the water about y^e town but all y^e water has a Brackish taste. There is one Church w^ch is an Entire worke all of stone, noe timbers but ye Rafters and beames belonging to y^e Roofe and y^e seates they sit in. Y^e Leads are very high and Large and very neate kept, the tower 15 stepps upon w^ch the whole Citty is discover’d, w^ch by reason of the good gardens and grounds within its walls is a very Large tract of ground in y^e whole. There you see the Colledge green in w^ch stands the Cathedrall and y^e Doctors houses, w^ch are not very fine, built of stone. There are some few monuments in this Church w^th good Carvings of stone round y^e tombs and some Effigies, there are 8 bells in this Church, there is 2 men goes to y^e ringing y^e biggest bell. From thence I went 2 miles to y^e hott spring of water w^ch Lookes Exceeding Cleer and is as warm as new milk and much of that sweetness. This is just by S^t Vincents Rocks y^t are Great Clifts w^ch seeme as bounds to y^e river Aven, this Channell was hewn out of those Rocks. They Digg y^e Bristol Diamonds w^ch Look very Bright and sparkling and in their native Rudeness have a great Lustre and are pointed and Like y^e Diamond Cutting; I had a piece just as it Came out of y^e Rock w^th y^e Rock on y^e back side and it appeared to me as a Cluster of Diamonds polish’d and jrregularly Cut. Some of these are hard and will Endure the Cutting and pollishing by art and soe they make rings and Earings of them, the harder the stone is more valuable, w^ch differences y^e true Diamond that will bear the fire or y^e greatest force, 202and Cannot be divided nor Cut but by some of itself, diamond dust being y^e only way they Can Cut diamonds that itself is Capable of Impressing Carracters on Glass. Here I fferry’d over the Avon that Comes up to y^e town w^th a Great tyde in two parts; about 6 mile off it joyns y^e Severn w^ch now begins to swell into a vast river of 7 mile over before it Enters the sea. Then I went to Aston a mile from y^e water side thro’ a fine park, an old Large house, and thence I passed over Large downs and saw 2 other good houses built of stone, w^th towers on y^e top, and severall Rows of trees Leading to them which made them appear very fine. Soe to Oakey Hole w^ch from y^e water side where I ferry’d is Esteemed but 15 long mile, its y^e same Distance from Bristole but I would not goe back to y^e town, but twere better I had, for I made it at Least 17 mile that way. Oakey Hole is a Large Cavity under ground Like Poole Hole in Darbyshire, only this seemes to be a great hill above it. Its full of great Rocks and stones Lying in it just as if they were hewen out of a quarry and Laid down all in y^e ground, y^e wall and Roofe is all a Rocky stone, there is a Lofty space they Call the hall and another y^e parlour, and another the Kitchen, the Entrance of Each one out of another is w^th greate stooping under Rocks y^t hang down almost to touch y^e ground, beyond this is a Cistern allwayes full of water, it Looks Cleer to the bottom w^ch is all full of stones as is the sides, just Like Candy or Like the Branches they put in the boyling of Copperace for y^e Copperice to Crust about it, in the same manner so y^t y^e water Congeales here into stone and does as it were bud or grow out one stone out of another. Where Ever this water drops it does not weare y^e Rock in hollow as some other such subterranian Caves does but it hardens and does Encrease y^e stone and that in a Roundness as if it Candy’d as it fell, w^ch I am of opinion it does; so it makes y^e Rocks grow and meete Each other in some places.

They ffancy many Resemblances in the Rocks, as in one place an organ and in another 2 little Babys and in another part a head w^ch they Call the porters head and another a 203shape like a dog. They phancy one of y^e Rocks resembles a woman w^th a great belly w^ch the Country people Call the witch w^ch made this Cavity under ground for her Enchantments. The rocks are Glistering and shine Like diamonds and some you Climbe over where one meetes w^th y^e Congealed Drops of water just Like jceicles hanging down. Some of the stone is white Like alabaster and Glisters Like mettle. You walke for y^e most part in y^e Large spaces Called y^e Roomes on a sandy floore, the Roofe so Lofty one Can scarce discern the top and Carry’s a Great Eccho, soe that takeing up a great stone as much as a man Can heave up to his head and letting it fall gives a report Like a Cannon w^ch they frequently trye and Call y^e Shooteing y^e Cannons. At y^e farther End you Come to a water Call’d y^e well, its of a greate depth and Compass tho’ by the Light of y^e Candles you may discern the Rock Encompassing it as a wall round. These hollows are generally very Cold and damp by reason of y^e waters distilling Continually w^ch is very Cold, as jce almost when I put my hand into y^e Cistern. These Roads are full of hills, and those some of them high Ridge of hills w^ch does discover a vast prospect all wayes, behind me I saw a Great valley full of jnclosures and Lessar hills by which you ascend these heights, w^ch are all very fruitfull and woody. Alsoe I Could see the Severn when Encreased to its breadth of 7 mile over, and there it Disembogues into ye sea; then it gave me a prospect forward of as Large a vale replenish’d w^th fruitefull hills and trees and good Ground, thence I Could discern Glassenbury tower; this was Maiden Hill just beyond ye Little town of same name and soe by degrees descending from a higher to a Lower hill w^ch had its ascents as well as its descents w^ch makes y^e miles seem and are Indeed Long tracts of ground.

From Ocley Hole I went to Wells w^ch was on an Even ground one mile farther, this Wells is what must be Reckoned halfe a Citty this and y^e Bath makeing up but one Bishops See. Here are two Churches w^th y^e Cathedrall. Y^e Cathedrall has y^e greatest Curiosity for Carv’d work in stone, the West front is full of all sorts of ffigures, y^e 12 204apostles, y^e K and Q w^th angells and figures of all forms, as thick one to another as Can be, and soe almost all round y^e Church.

The assizes was in the town w^ch filled it Like a faire, and Little stands for selling things was in all the streetes. There I saw y^e town hall. The streetes are well pitch’d, and a Large market place and shambles. The Bishops pallace is in a park moated round, nothing worth notice in it. S^t Andrews well w^ch gives name to the town Bubbles up so quick a spring and becomes the head of two Little rivers w^ch Encreases a Little way off into good rivers. Thence I went to Glasenbury 4 miles, a pretty Levell way till just you Come to the town, then I ascended a stony hill and went just by the tower w^ch is on a green Round riseing ground. There is only a Little tower remaines Like a Beacon, it had Bells formerly in it and some superstition observ’d there, but now its broken down on one side. From this I descended a very steep stony way into the town; Glasenbury tho’ in ancient tymes was a Renowned place where was founded the first monastery, its now a Ragged poor place and the abbey has only the Kitchen remaining in it w^ch is a distinct Building, round like a pigeon house all stone. The walls of y^e abbey here and there appeares and some Little places and y^e Cellar or vault w^ch if they Cast a stone into the place it gives a great Echo, and y^e Country people says its y^e Devil set there on a tun of money w^ch makes y^e noise Least they should take it away from him. There is the holly thorn growing on a Chimney, this the superstitious Covet much and have gott some of it for their gardens and soe have almost quite spoiled it, w^ch did grow quite round a Chimney tunnell in the stone. Here is a very pretty Church a good tower well Carv’d all stone 160 stepps up. Walking in the tower I Could have a prospect of the whole place w^ch appeared very Ragged and decayed. The Church is neate, there is the Effigee of the abbot on a tombstone Carved all about w^th Eschuteons of a Camell, and round it an jnscription or motto in old Latin and an old Caracter. It was a phancy of his Stewards who was a very faithfull Dilligent 205servant, and as he made use of those Creatures in his masters service y^t were strong and Industrious so y^e motto described his services under that resemblance. The Effigee was very Curious and w^th rings on the fingers, but in Monmouths tyme the soldiers defaced it much.

From thence to Taunton 16 miles through many small places and scattering houses, through Lanes full of stones and by the Great raines just before full of wet and Dirt. I passed over a Large Common or bottom of Deep black Land which is bad for the Rider but good for the abider as the proverb is; this was 2 or 3 mile long and pass’d and repass’d a river as it twin’d about at Least ten tymes over stone bridges. This river Comes from Bridge water 7 mile, the tyde Comes up beyond Bridge water, Even within 3 mile of Taunton its flowed by the tyde w^ch brings up the Barges w^th Coale to this place, after having pass’d a Large Common w^ch on Either hand Leads a great waye, good rich Land w^th ditches and willow trees all for feeding Cattle, and here at this Little place where the boates unlade the Coale y^e packhorses Comes and takes it in sacks and so Carryes it to y^e places all about. This is y^e sea Coale brought from Bristole, the horses Carry 2 Bushell at a tyme w^ch at the place Cost 18^d and when its brought to Taunton Cost 2 shillings. The roads were full of these Carryers going and returning.

Taunton is a Large town haveing houses of all sorts of buildings both brick and stone, but mostly timber and plaister, its a very neate place and Looks substantial as a place of good trade. You meete all sorts of Country women wrapp’d up in the mantles Called West Country rockets, a Large mantle doubled together of a sort of serge, some are Linsywolsey and a deep fringe or ffag at the Lower End, these hang down some to their feete some only just below y^e wast, in the summer they are all in white garments of this sort, in the winter they are in Red ones. I Call them garments because they never go out w^th out them and this is the universal ffashion in Sommerset and Devonshire and Cornwall. Here is a good Market Cross well Carv’d and a Large Market house on Pillars for the Corn. 206I was in the Largest Church, it was mending, it was pretty Large, the alter stood table wayes in the middle of the Chancell, there was one good stone Statue stood in the wall, the Effigee was very tall in a Ruff and Long Black dress Like some Religious w^th his Gloves and book in his hand. There were severall Little monuments with Inscriptions Round them, they have Encompass’d the Church yard with a new Brick wall and handsom Iron gates, there is a Large space Called the Castle yard and some remaines of the Castle walls and Buildings w^ch is fitted up for a good dwelling house. From thence I went to Wellington, they Call it but 5 mile but its a Long 7 tho’ the way was pretty good; this is a Little Market town. Thence to Culimton 13 mile more, but Indeed these were very long Miles, y^e hostler at Tanton did say tho’ they were reckon’d but 16 miles it really was a good 20 miles and I am much of that mind. I mostly pass’d through Lanes, I entred Into Devonshire 5 mile off from Wellington, just on a high ridge of hills w^ch discovers a vast prospect on Each side full of Inclosures and Lesser hills w^ch is the Description of most part of the West. You Could see Large tracts of grounds full of Enclosures good Grass and Corn beset with quicksetts and hedge rows, and these Lesser hills w^ch are scarce perceivable on y^e Ridge of the uppermost, yet the Least of them have a steep ascent and descent to pass them. Culimton is a good Little market town, and market Cross and another set on stone pillars, such a one was at Wellington but on Brick work pillars. Here was a Large meeteing of neer 4 or 500 people, they have a very good minister but a young man, I was glad to see soe many tho’ they were but of the meaner sort, for Indeed its the poor Receive the Gospell and there are in most of the market towns in the West very good meeteings. This Little place was one Continued Long streete but few houses y^t struck out of the streete. From thence 10 mile to Exetter, up hills and down as before, till one attaines those uppermost Ridges of all w^ch discovers the whole valley, then you sometymes goe a mile or two on a Down till the Brow of the hill begins in a Descent on the other side. This Citty appears to view 2 207mile distant from one of those heights, and also the River Ex w^ch runs to Topshum where y^e shipps Comes up to the Barre; this is 7 mile by water from w^ch they are attempting to make navigeable to the town, which will be of Mighty advantage to have shipps Come up Close to the town to take in their Serges w^ch now they are forced to send to Topshum on horses by Land, w^ch is about 4 mile by Land. They had just agreed w^th a man that was to accomplish this work for w^ch they were to give 5 or 6000^£, who had made a beginning on it.

Exeter is a town very well built, the streets are well pitch’d, spacious noble streetes, and a vast trade is Carryed on, as Norwitch is for Coapes Callamanco and damaske, soe this is for serges. There is an Increadible quantety of them made and sold in the town. There market day is Fryday which supplys with all things Like a faire almost; the markets for meate, fowle, ffish, garden things and the Dairy produce takes up 3 whole streetes besides the Large Market house set on stone pillars, w^ch runs a great Length on w^ch they Lay their packs of serges. Just by it is another walke w^th in pillars w^ch is for the yarne, the whole town and Country is Employ’d for at Least 20 mile round in spinning, weaveing, dressing and scouring, fulling and Drying of the serges. It turns the most money in a weeke of any thing in England. One weeke with another there is 10000 pound paid in ready money, Sometymes 15000 pound. The weavers brings in their serges and must have their money w^ch they Employ to provide them yarne to goe to work againe. There is alsoe a square Court with Penthouses round where the Malters are w^th Mault and oat meal, but the serge is the Chief manufacture. There is a prodigious quantety of their serges they never bring into the market but are in hired roomes w^ch are noted for it, for it would be impossible to have it altogether. The Carryers I met going w^th it, as thick, all Entring into town w^th their Loaded horses, they bring them all just from the Loome and soe they are put into the ffulling-mills, but first they will Clean and Scour their roomes with them, w^ch by the way gives noe pleasing perfume to a roome, the oyle and grease, and I 208should think it would Rather foull a roome than Cleanse it because of the oyles, but I perceive its otherwise Esteemed by them w^ch will send to their acquaintances y^t are tuckers the dayes the serges Comes in for a Rowle to Clean their house—this I was an Eye witness of. Then they Lay them in soack in vrine, then they soape them and soe put them into the ffulling-mills and soe worke them in the mills drye till they are thick enough then they turne water into them and so scower them. Y^e mill does draw out and gather in y^e serges, its a pretty divertion to see it, a sort of huge notch’d timbers Like great teethe;—one would thinke it should Injure the serges but it does not. Y^e mills draws in w^th such a great violence that if one stands neere it and it Catch a bitt of your Garments it would be ready to draw in y^e person even in a trice. When they are thus scour’d they drye them in racks strained out w^ch are as thick set one by another as will permitt y^e dresses to pass between, and huge Large fields occupy’d this way almost all round the town w^ch is to the river side; then when drye they pick out all knots then fold them w^th a paper between Every fold and so sett them on an jron plaite and screw down y^e press on them w^ch has another jron plaite on the top under w^ch is a furnace of fire of Coales, this is the hott press; then they fold them Exceeding Exact and then press them in a Cold press, some they dye but the most are sent up for London white.

I saw the severall ffatts they were a Dying in of black, yellow, blew and Green w^ch two Last Coullours are dipp’d in the same fatt, that w^ch makes it differ is what they were dipp’d in before w^ch makes them Either green or blew; they hang the Serges on a great beame or Great pole on the top of y^e fatt and so keep turning it from one to another—as one turns it off into the ffatt y^e other Rowles it out of it, soe they do it backwards and forwards till its tinged deep Enough of the Coullour. Their ffurnace that keepes their dye panns boyling is all under that roome made of Coale ffires. There was in a roome by itself a ffatt for the Scarlet that being a very Changeable dye noe waste must be allow’d in that, Indeed I think they make as fine a Coullour as their bowdies are in London.

209 These Rolers I spake of two men does Continually role on and off y^e pieces of serge till Dipp’d Enough, the length of these pieces are or should hold out 26 yards. This Citty does Exceedingly resemble London for besides these buildings I mention’d for y^e severall Markets, there is an Exchange full of shopps Like our Exchanges are, only its but one walke along as was the Exchange at Salisbury house in the Strand; there is also a very Large space Railed in just by the Cathedrall with walks round it w^ch is Called the Exchange for Merchants, that Constantly meete twice a day just as they do in London. There are 17 Churches in the Citty and 4 in the subburbs, there is some remaines of the Castle walls, they make use of the roomes w^ch are inside for y^e assizes, there is the two Barrs besides being Large rooms w^th seates and places Convenient and jury roome, here is a Large walke at y^e Entrance between Rowes of Pillars, there is besides this just at y^e market place a Guild hall the Entrance of w^ch is a Large place set on stone Pillars, beyond w^ch are y^e roomes for the session or any town affaires to be adjusted. Behind this building there is a vast Cistern w^ch holds upwards of 600 hodsheads of water which supplyes by pipes the whole Citty; this Cistern is replenished from the river w^ch is on purpose turned into a Little Channell by it self to turn the mill, and ffills the Engine that Casts y^e water into the truncks w^ch Conveys it to this Cistern. The water Engine is Like those at Islington and at Darby as I have seen, and is what now they make use of in Diverse places Either to supply them w^th water or to draine a marsh or overplus of water. The river X is a fine streame, they have made severall bayes or wires above the Bridge w^ch Casts y^e water into many Channells for the Conveniencys of turning all their mills, by w^ch meanes they have Composed a Little jsland, for at the End it againe returns into its own united Channell. Those wires makes great falls into y^e water, it Comes w^th great violence; here they Catch the Salmon as they Leap w^th speares, the first of these Bayes is a very great one, there is one below the bridge w^ch must be taken away when the navigation is Compleate for they will need 210all their water together to fill it to a Depth to Carry the shipps for just by the Bridge is the Key design’d, or y^t w^ch now is already they will Enlarge to that place. Just by this key is the Custome house, an open space below w^th rows of pillars w^ch they Lay in goods just as its unladen out of the shipps in Case of wet. Just by are Severall Little roomes for Land waiters &c, then you ascend up a handsome pair of staires into a Large roome full of Desks and Little partitions for the writers and accountants, it was full of books and files of paper. By it are two other Roomes w^ch are used in the same way when there is a great deale of Bussiness. There are severall good Conduites to Supply y^e Citty w^th water besides that Cistern, there is alsoe a very fine market Cross.

The Cathedrall at Exetter is preserv’d in its outside adornments beyond most I have seen, there remaining more of y^e fine Carv’d worke in stone, the ffigures and nitches full and in proportion, tho’ Indeed I Cannot say it has that great Curiosity of work and variety as the great Church at Wells. Its a Lofty building in y^e Inside, the Largest pair of organs^[1] I have Ever seen w^th fine Carving of wood w^ch runs up a Great height, and made a magnificent appearance. The Quire is very neate, but y^e Bishops seate or throne was Exceeding and very high and y^e Carving very fine and took up a Great Compass full of all variety of ffigures, something Like the worke over y^e arch Bishops throne in S^t Pauls, London, but this was Larger if not so Curious. There was severall good monuments and Effigies of Bishops; there was one of a judge and his Lady that was very Curious, their Garments Embroyder’d all marble and Gilt and painted. There was a very Large good Library in w^ch was a press that had an anatomy of a woman. Y^e tower is 167 steps up on which I had a view of y^e whole town w^ch is Generally well built. I saw y^e Bishops pallace and Garden, there is a long walke as well as broad, Enclosed w^th rows of Lofty trees which made it shady and very pleasant, w^ch went along by the Ditch and banck on w^ch 211the town wall stands. There are 5 gates to y^e town, there is alsoe another Long walke within shady trees on y^e other side of the town, w^ch Leads to the Grounds where the drying frames are set up for the serges.

Ffrom thence I pass’d the Bridge aCross the River Ex to Chedly w^ch was 9 mile, mostly Lanes and a Continual going up hill and down, some of them pretty steep hills and all these Lesser hills as I have observ’d rises higher and higher till it advances you upon the high Ridge w^ch discovers to view the Great valleys below full of those Lesser hills and jnclosures w^th quicksett hedges and trees and Rich Land, but the Roads are not to be seen being all along in Lanes Cover’d over with y^e shelter of the hedges and trees. Then when I was on y^e top hill I went 3 or 4 miles on an open down w^ch brought me to the Edge of another such a Ridge, w^ch was by some steps to be descended as it was gained by y^e Lesser hills one below another till I Came to y^e bottom, and then I had about 2 or 3 mile along on a plaine or Common w^ch for the most part are a Little moorish by reason of their receiving the water that draines from the severall Great hills on Either side, and so then I am to rise up another such a Range of hills, and as neer as I Could Compute in my Rideing it was 6 or 7 miles between one high Ridge of hills to that over against it, whereas were there a Bridge over from one top to the other it Could not be 2 mile distant; but this does give them y^e advantage of severall acres of Land by reason of the many hills w^ch if drawn out on plaines as in some other parts would appear much vaster tracts of Land. On these hills as I said one Can discern Little besides inclosures hedges and trees, rarely Can see houses unless you are just descending to them, they allwayes are placed in holes as it were and you have a precipice to go down to Come at them. Y^e Lanes are full of stones and dirt for y^e most part because they are so Close the sun and wind Cannot Come at them, soe that in many places you travell on Causeys w^ch are uneven also for want of a Continued repaire.

From Chedly to Ashburton is 11 mile more, in all 20 mile from Exeter, the Roads being much the same as 212before. This Ashburton is a poor Little town—bad was the best Inn. Its a market town and here are a Great many descenters and those of the most Considerable persons in the town; there was a presbiterian, an anabaptist, and quakers meeteing. Thence I went for Plymouth 24 long miles, and here the Roades Contract and y^e Lanes are exceeding narrow and so Cover’d up you Can see Little about; an army Might be marching undiscover’d by any body, for when you are on those heights that shews a vast Country about you Cannot see one Road. The wayes now become so difficult y^t one Could scarcely pass by Each other, Even y^e single horses, and so Dirty in many places, and just a track for one horses feete, and the Banks on Either side so neer, and were they not well secured and mended w^th stones stuck Close Like a Drye wall Everywhere when they discover the Bancks to Breake and molder down, which Else would be in Danger of swallowing up the way quite; for on these bancks (w^ch are some of them naturall Rocks and quarrys, others mended w^th such stone or slate stuck Edgewayes to secure them) for the quicksetts and trees that grow on these Bancks Loosen the mold and so makes it molder downe sometymes. I pass’d through severall Little places and over some stone Bridges. Y^e waters are pretty broad soe these are 4 or 5 arches most Bridges, all stone. The running of y^e waters is w^th a huge Rushing by reason of y^e stones w^ch Lye in the water, some of them Great rocks w^ch gives some Interruption to y^e Current w^ch finding another way Either by its sides or mounting over part of it Causes y^e frothing of y^e water and y^e noise—the rivers being full of stones bigger or Less. About 4 or 5 mile from ashburton I Came to a Little place Called Dean and at y^e End of it ascended a very steep hill, all rock almost; and so it was Like so many steps up, this is Called Dean Clapperhill, it was an untoward place but not soe fformidable to me as the people of y^e place where I Lay described it, haveing gone much worse hills in the North. All along on the road where the Lanes are a Little broader you ride by rowes of trees on Each side, set and kept Exactly Even and Cut, y^e tops being for shade and beauty 213and they in exact forme as if a Grove to some house. At first I thought it was neer some houses till the frequency and Length proved the Contrary, for there are very few if any houses neare the Road, unless the Little villages you passe through. This Country being almost full of stone the streetes and roades too have a naturall sort of paveing or Pitching tho’ uneven. All their Carriages are here on y^e Backs of horses, w^th sort of hookes Like yoakes stands upon Each side of a good height, w^ch are the Receptacles of their goods Either wood, ffurse or Lime or Coale or Corn or hay or straw or what Else they Convey from place to place, and I Cannot see how two such horses Can pass Each other or Indeed in some places how any horse Can pass by Each other, and yet these are the roads y^t are all here abouts. Some Little Corners may jutt out that one may a Little get out of y^e way of Each other, but this but seldom. Two mile from Plymouth we Come to y^e river Plym just by a Little town all built of stone and y^e tyleing is all flatt w^ch with y^e Lime its Cemented, w^ch makes it Look white Like snow, and in the sun shineing on the slatt it Glisters.

Here I Came in sight on y^e Right hand of a very Large house built all with this sort of stone w^ch is a sort of marble. Even all quaryes are, and some ffine marble. This house Look’d very finely in a thicket of trees Like a Grove and was on the side of a hill and Led just down to the head of y^e river Plym w^ch is fill’d with y^e tyde from the sea, and here I Cross’d it on a stone bridge. Soe I Rode 2 miles mostly by the river w^ch encreases and is a fine broad streame and at y^e town w^ch is its mouth it falls into the sea. The sea here runs into severall Creekes, one place it runs up to y^e Dock and Milbrook, another arm of y^e sea goes up to Saltash and Port Eliot.

Plymouth is 2 Parishes Called y^e old town and y^e new, the houses all built of this marble and y^e Slatt at the top Lookes Like Lead and glisters in the sun. There are noe great houses in the town, the streetes are good and Clean, there is a great many tho’ some are but narrow, they are mostly inhabitted w^th seamen and those w^ch have affaires on y^e sea, for here up to the town there is a Depth of water for 214shipps of y^e first Rate to Ride. Its Great sea and Dangerous by reason of y^e severall poynts of Land between w^ch the sea runs up a Great way, and there are severall Little jslands alsoe all w^ch beares the severall tydes hard one against y^e other. There are two keyes, the one is a broad space w^ch Leads you up into the broad streete and is used in manner of an exchange for the merchants meeteing, for in this streete alsoe is a fine stone Crosse and alsoe a long market house set on stone Pillars. There are severall good Cunduits to Convey the water to the town w^ch Conveyance y^e famous S^r Ffrancis Drake (w^ch did encompass y^e world in Queen Elizabeths dayes and Landed safe at Plymouth) he gave this to y^e town. There are two Churches in the town but nothing fine. I was in y^e best and saw only King Charles the firsts Picture at Length at prayer just as its Cut on the frontispiece of the jnenicum. This picture was Drawn and given the Church when he was in his troubles, for some piece of service shewn him. The alter stands in the Chancell or Railed place, but it stands table wise the Length and not up against the wall. The ffont was of marble and Indeed soe is all buildings here for their stone is all a sort of Marble, some Coarser some finer. There are 4 Large meetings for the descenters in the town takeing in the Quakers and anabaptists.

The mouth of y^e river just at y^e town is a very good Harbour for Shipps, the Dockyards are about 2 mile from the town—by boate you goe to it y^e nearest way—its one of y^e best in England. A Great many good shipps built there, and the Great Depth of water w^ch Comes up to it tho’ it runs for 2 mile between y^e Land, w^ch also shelters y^e shipps. There is a great deale of Buildings on the Dock, a very good house for the Masters and severall Lesser ones, and house for their Cordage and makeing Ropes, and all sorts of things required in building or Refitting ships, it Lookes Like a Little town. The Buildings are so many and all of marble w^th ffine slate on y^e Rooffs and at a Little Distance it makes all the houses shew as if they were Cover’d w^th snow and Glisters in y^e sunn w^ch adds to their beauty. Y^e ffine and only thing in 215Plymouth town is the Cittadell or Castle w^ch stands very high above the town, the walls and battlements round it w^th all their Works and Plattforms are in very good repaire and Lookes nobly, all marble full of towers w^th stone Balls on the top and Gilt on the top; the Entrance being by an ascent up a hill Looks very noble over 2 drawbridges and Gates, w^ch are Marble as is the whole, Well Carv’d, the Gate w^th armory and statues all Gilt and on the top 7 Gold balls. Ye buildings within are very neate, a Large appartment for the Governour, w^th others that are Less for y^e severall officers. There is a Long building alsoe w^ch is y^e arsnell for y^e arms and amunition, and just by it a round building well secured w^ch was for the powder round the works in the Plattform for the Gunns w^ch are well mounted and very well kept. Walking round I had the view of all the town and alsoe part off y^e Main Ocean in w^ch are some jslands. There is S^t Nicholas jsland w^th a ffort in it, there it was Harry Martin one of y^e Kings judges was banished Dureing Life. There you Can just Discover a Light house w^ch is building on a meer Rock in the middle of y^e sea, this is 7 Leagues off, it will be of Great advantage for y^e Guide of y^e shipps y^t pass that way. From this you have a Good refflection on y^e Great Care and provision y^e wise God makes for all persons and things in his Creation, that there should be in some places where there is any Difficulty rocks Even in the midst of y^e deep w^ch Can be made use of for a Constant Guide and mark for the passengers on their voyages, but the Earth is full of y^e goodness of y^e Lord and soe is this Great sea wherein are jnumerable beings Created and preserv’d by y^e same almighty hand Whose is the Earth and all things there in, he is Lord of all. From the plattform I Could see y^e Dock and also just ag^st it I saw mount EdgeComb a seate of S^r Richard EdgComes, it stands on the side of a hill all bedeck’d w^th woods w^ch are Divided into several Rowes of trees in walks, the house being all of this white marble. Its built round a Court so the four sides are alike, at y^e Corners of it are towers w^ch w^th y^e Lanthorne or Cupilow in the middle Lookes well, the house is not very Lofty nor the windows high but it Looked Like a very 216uniforme neate building and pretty Large. There is a Long Walke from one part of y^e front down to y^e waterside, w^ch is on a descent guarded w^th shady Rowes of trees, there is a fine terrass walled in, at y^e water side is open gates in y^e middle and a sumer house at Each End, from whence a wall is Drawn Round the house and Gardens and a Large parck, the wall of which I Rode by a good while; so y^t altogether and its scituation makes it Esteemed by me the finest seate I have seen and might be more Rightly named mount pleasant. From Plymouth I went 1 mile to Cribly Fferry w^ch is a very hazardous passage by reason of 3 tydes meeting. Had I known y^e Danger before, I should not have been very willing to have gone it, not but this is y^e Constant way all people goe, and saved severall miles rideings, I was at Least an hour going over, it was about a mile but Indeed in some places notwithstanding there was 5 men Row’d and I sett my own men to Row alsoe I do believe we made not a step of way for almost a quarter of an hour, but blessed be God I Came safely over; but those fferry boates are soe wet and then the sea and wind is allwayes Cold to be upon, that I never faile to Catch Cold in a fferry boate as I did this day haveing 2 more fferrys to Cross tho’ none soe bad or halfe soe Long as this. Thence to Milbrooke 2 mile and went all along by the water and had the full view of ye Dock yards. Here I entred into Cornwall and soe passed over many very steep stony hills, tho’ here I had some 2 or 3 miles of Exceeding good way on the downs, and then I Came to y^e steep precipices—Great Rocky hills—ever and anon I Came down to the sea and Rode by its side on the sand, then mounted up againe on y^e hills w^ch Carryed me along Mostly in sight of y^e Southsea. Sometymes I was in Lanes full of Rowes of trees and then I Came down a very steep stony hill to Lonn 13 mile, and here I Crossed a Little arme of y^e sea on a Bridge of 14 arches. This is a pretty bigg seaport, a Great many Little houses all of stone, and steep hill much worse and 3 tymes as Long as Dean Clapper hill, and soe I continued up and down hill. Here Indeed I met w^th more jnclosed Ground and soe had more Lanes and a Deeper Clay Road w^ch by 217the raine y^e night before had made it very Dirty and full of water in many places, in the Road there are many holes and sloughs where Ever there is Clay Ground, and when by raines they are filled with water its difficult to shun Danger; here my horse was quite down in one of these holes full of water but by y^e good hand of God’s providence w^ch has allwayes been w^th me Even a present help in tyme of need, for giving him a good strap he fflounc’d up againe tho’ he had gotten quite down his head and all, yet did retrieve his ffeete and gott Cleer off y^e place w^th me on his Back. Soe I Came to Hoile 8 mile more, they are very Long miles y^e ffarther West but you have y^e pleasure of Rideing as if in a Grove in most places, y^e Regular Rowes of trees on Each side y^e Roade as if it were an Entrance into some gentlemans Ground to his house. I fferryed over againe Cross an arme of y^e sea, here it was not broad but Exceeding deep. This is y^e Southsea w^ch runs into many Little Creekes for severall miles into y^e Land w^ch is all y^e rivers they have. I observed this to be exceeding salt and as green as ever I saw y^e sea when I have been a League or two out from y^e Land, w^ch shews it must be very deep and Great tides. This Hoile is a narrow stony town, y^e streetes very Close, and as I descended a Great steep into y^e town, soe I ascended one up a stony Long hill farre worse and full of shelves and Rocks and 3 tymes as Long as Dean Clapperhill, w^ch I Name because when I was there they would have frighted me with its terribleness as y^e most inaccessible place as Ever was and none Like it, and my opinion is y^t it was but one or two steps, to other places forty steps and them w^th more hazard than this of Dean Clapper. Well, to pass on, I went over some Little heath Ground but mostly Lanes, and those stony and Dirty, 3 mile and halfe to Parr; here I fferry’d over againe, not but when the tyde is out you may ford it.

Thence I went over the heath to S^t Austins w^ch is a Little market town where I Lay, but their houses are like Barnes up to y^e top of y^e house. Here was a pretty good dineing room and Chamber within it and very neate Country women. My Landlady brought me one of y^e west 218Country tarts this was y^e first I met w^th though. I had asked for them in many places in Sommerset and Devonshire; its an apple pye w^th a Custard all on the top, its y^e most acceptable entertainment y^t Could be made me. They scald their Creame and milk in most parts of those Countrys and so its a sort of Clouted Creame as we Call it, w^th a Little sugar and soe put on y^e top of y^e apple Pye. I was much pleased w^th my supper tho’ not with the Custome of the Country w^ch is a universall smoaking, both men women and children have all their pipes of tobacco in their mouths and soe sit round the fire smoaking w^ch was not delightfull to me when I went down to talke w^th my Landlady for jnformation of any matter and Customs amongst them. I must say they are as Comely sort of women as I have seen any where tho’ in ordinary dress—good black Eyes and Crafty enough and very neate. Halfe a mile from hence they blow their tin w^ch went to see. They take y^e ore and pound it in a stamping mill w^ch resembles the paper mills, and when its fine as y^e finest sand—some of w^ch I saw and took—this they fling into a ffurnace and w^th it Coale to make the fire. So it burns together and makes a violent heate and fierce flame, the mettle by y^e fire being separated from y^e Coale and its own Drosse, being heavy falls down to a trench made to receive it at y^e furnace hole below. This Liquid mettle I saw them shovel up w^th an jron shovel and soe pour it into molds in w^ch it Cooles and soe they take it thence in sort of wedges or piggs I think they Call them, its a fine mettle in its first melting—Looks Like silver—I had a piece poured out and made Cold for to take w^th me. Y^e oare as its just dug Lookes Like y^e thunderstones, a greenish hue full of pendust this seemes to Containe its full description, y^e shineing part is white. I went a mile farther on y^e hills and soe Came where they were digging in the tinn mines, there was at Least 20 mines all in sight w^ch employs a Great many people at work almost night and day, but Constantly all and Every day jncluding the Lords day w^ch they are forced to prevent their mines being overflowed w^th water. More than 1000 men are taken up about them, few 219mines but had then almost 20 men and boys attending it either down in y^e mines digging and Carrying y^e oare to the Little Bucket w^ch Conveys it up, or Else others are Draineing the water and Looking to y^e Engines y^t are draineing it, and those above are attending y^e drawing up the oare in a sort of windlass as is to a Well. Two men keeps turning bringing up one and Letting down another, they are much Like the Leather Buckets they use in London to put out fire, w^ch hang up in Churches and Great mens halls. They have a Great Labour and Great expence to draine the mines of the water w^th mills that horses turn, and now they have y^e mills or water Engines that are turned by the water w^ch is Convey’d on frames of timber and truncks to hold y^e water, w^ch falls down on y^e wheeles as an over shott mill, and these are y^e sort that turns y^e water into y^e severall towns I have seen about London, Darby and Exeter and many places more. They do five tymes more good than the mills they use to turn w^th horses, but then they are much more Chargeable. Those mines do require a great deale of timber to support them and to make all those engines and mills, w^ch makes fewell very scarce here; they burn mostly turffs w^ch is an unpleasant smell, it makes one smell as if smoaked Like Bacon. This ore as said is made fine powder in a Stamping Mill w^ch is Like y^e paper mills, only these are pounded drye and noe water Let into them as is to y^e Raggs, to work them into a paste. Ye mills are all turned w^th a Little Streame or Channell of water you may step over, jndeed they have noe other mills but such in all the Country; I saw not a windmill all over Cornwall or Devonshire tho’ they have wind and hills Enough, and it may be its too Bleake for them. In the tinn mines there is stone Dug out and a sort of spar something Like what I have seen in the Lead mines at Darbyshire but it seemed more sollid and hard, it shines and Lookes Like mother of pearle. They alsoe digg out stones as Cleer as Christal w^ch is Called Cornish Diamonds. I saw one as bigg as my two ffists, very Cleer and Like some pieces of Chrystal my father brought from y^e Alps In Italy w^ch I have by me. I got one of those 220pieces of their Cornish Diamonds as Long as halfe my finger w^ch had three or four flatt sides w^th Edges, the top was sharpe and so hard as it would Cut a Letter on glass. Thence I went to —— 6 miles good way, and passed by 100 mines some on which they were at work, others that were lost by y^e waters overwhelming them. I crossed y^e water on a Long stone bridge and so through dirty stony Lanes 3 mile and then I Came into a broad Coach Rode which I have not seen since I Left Exeter, so I went 3 mile more to M^r Boscawens—Trygothy—a Relation of mine. His house stands on a high hill in the middle of a parke with severall Rows of trees with woods beyond it. Y^e house is built all of white stone like the Rough Coarse Marble and Cover’d w^th slate. They use much Lime in their Cement w^ch makes both walls and Cover Look very white. There is a Court walled round w^th open Iron gates and barrs. The Entrance is up a few stone steps into a Large high hall and so to a passage that Leads foreright up a good stair Case. On y^e Right side is a Large Common parlour for Constant Eating in, from whence goes a Little roome for smoaking y^t has a back way into the kitchin, and on the Left hand is a Great parlour and drawing roome—wanscoated all very well but plaine. Y^e Great Parlour is Cedar, out of y^t is the Drawing-roome which is hung with pictures of the family, that goes into y^e garden w^ch has Gravell walks round and across, but y^e squares are full of goosebery and shrub-trees and Looks more Like a Kitchen garden as Lady Mary Boscawen told me, out of w^ch is another Garden and orchard which is something Like a Grove, Green walks w^th rows of fruit trees. Its Capable of being a fine place w^th some Charge, the roomes above are new modell’d, 3 roomes wanscoated and hung as y^e new way is, and y^e beds made up well, one red damaske, another Green, another wrought some of y^e Ladyes own work and well made up, w^ch is her own Roome w^th a dressing roome by it. There is a dressing roome and a roome for a servant just by y^e best Chamber. There are two other good roomes unalter’d w^th old hangings to y^e bottom on wrought work of y^e first Ladyes. 221Lady Margets work, y^t was my Cos’n German, within that roome was a servants roome and back staires, there was just such another apartment on y^e other side.

Between all from the staires a broad passage Leads to a Balcony over the Entrance w^ch Look’d very pleasantly over the parke but in the Cupulo on y^e Leads I Could see a vast way, at Least 20 mile round; for this house stands very high to y^e Land side Eastward, and the south was the Great Ocean w^ch runns into Falmouth thats y^e best harbour for shipps in that road. 6 mile from this place westward was to Truro and the north to the hills full of Copper mines. Here I was very Civily Entertained: from thence I returned back Intending not to goe to y^e Lands End w^ch was 30 miles farther for feare of y^e raines that fell in the night w^ch made me doubt what travelling I should have; soe to S^t Culumb I went, a pretty Long 12 mile. Here I met with many Rowes of Elm trees w^ch I have not found in any Country Except Wiltshire; these were mostly soe, tho’ there were alsoe ashes and oakes. Y^e hedges were Hazelthorne and Holly but to see soe many good rowes of trees on y^e road is surprising and Looks Like the Entrance to some Gentlemans house, and I cannot tell but some of them were soe tho’ a mile off from y^e house.

The next day finding it faire weather on y^e Change of y^e moone, I alter’d my Resolution and soe went for y^e Lands End by Redruth 18 miles, mostly over heath and Downs w^ch was very bleake and full of mines.

Here I Came by the Copper mines w^ch have the same order in the digging and draining, tho’ here it seemes Dryer and I believe not quite soe annoy’d w^th water. The ore is something as the tinn only this Looks blackish, or rather a purple Colour, and y^e glistering part is yellow as y^e other was white. They do not melt it here but ship it off to Bristol by y^e North Sea w^ch I Rode in sight of, and is not above 2 or 3 Mile from hence, which supplyes them with Coales for their fewell at Easyer rates than the other side Plymouth and the South Sea, because since y^e warre they Could not Double y^e poynt at y^e Lands End, being so neer Ffrance y^e pirats or Privateers met them. Indeed at S^t Jves 222they do melt a Little but nothing that is Considerable—that is 10 mile from Redruth w^ch is a Little market town. Here they Carry all their things on horses backs soe that of a market day w^ch was Fryday you see a great number of horses Little of size w^ch they Call Cornish Canelys. They are well made and strong and will trip along as Light on the stony road without injury to themselves, where as my horses went so heavy that they wore their shoes immediately thinn and off, but here I met with a very good smith that shooed y^e horses as well as they do in London, and that is not Common in the Country, but here I found it soe, and at a place in Westmoreland by y^e ffells a smith made good shoes and set them on very well. From Redruth I went to Pensands 15 mile and passed by y^e ruines of Great ffortification or Castle on a high hill about 3 mile from Redruth and passed to Hailes and soe went by y^e sea side a great way, it being spring tide it was a full sea. Just over against it there was a Church w^ch was almost sunck into y^e sands being a very sandy place. So I went up pretty high hills and over some heath or Common, on w^ch a Great storme of haile and raine met me and drove fiercely on me but y^e wind soone dry’d my Dust Coate. Here I Came by a very good Grove of trees w^ch I thought was by some Gentlemans house but found it some ffarmers.

The people here are very ill Guides and know but Little from home, only to some market town they frequent, but will be very solicitous to know where you goe and how farre and from whence you Came and where is y^e abode. Then I Came in sight of y^e hill in Cornwall Called y^e Mount, its on a Rock in the sea w^ch at y^e flowing tyde is an jsland, but at Low water one Can goe over y^e sands almost just to it, its but a Little market town w^ch is about 2 mile from Panzants, and you may walke or Ride to it all on y^e sands when y^e tyde’s out. Its a ffine Rock and very high—severall Little houses for fisher men—in y^e sides of it just by the water. At y^e top is a pretty good house where the Govenour Lives sometymes,—S^r —— Hook his name is—there is a tower on the top on w^ch is a fflag. There is a Chaire or throne on the top from whence they Can discover a 223Great way at sea and here they put up Lights to direct shipps.

Pensands is Rightly named being all sands about it—it Lies just as a shore to y^e maine South ocean w^ch Comes from y^e Lizard and being on y^e side of a hill w^th a high hill all round y^e side to y^e Landward it Lookes soe snugg and warme, and truely it needs shelter haveing the sea on y^e other side and Little or no ffewell—turff and ffurse and fferne. They have Little or noe wood and noe Coale w^ch differences it from Darbyshire, otherwise this and to y^e Land’s End is stone and barren as Darbyshire. I was surprised to ffind my supper boyling on a fire allwayes supply’d w^th a bush of ffurse and y^t to be y^e only ffewell to dress a joynt of meat and broth, and told them they Could not roast me anything, but they have a Little wood for such occasions but its scarce and dear w^ch is a strange thing y^t y^e shipps should not supply them. They told me it must all be brought round the Lands End and since y^e warre they Could not have it. This town is two parishes, one Church in y^e town and a Little Chappell and another Church belonging to y^e other parish w^ch is a mile distance. There is alsoe a good meeteing place.

There is a good Key and a good Harbour for y^e shipps to Ride, by meanes of y^e point of Land w^ch runns into y^e Sea in a neck or Compass w^ch shelters it from y^e maine and answers the Lizard point w^ch you see very plaine—a point of Land Looks Like a Double hill one above y^e other that runns a good way into y^e sea. Y^e Lands End is 10 mile ffarther, pretty steep and narrow Lanes, but its not shelter’d w^th trees or hedg Rows this being rather desart and Like y^e peake Country in Darbyshire, dry stone walls, and y^e hills full of stones, but it is in most places better Land and yeilds good Corne, both wheate Barley and oates and some Rhye. About 2 mile from the Lands End I Came in sight of y^e maine ocean on both sides, the south and north sea and soe Rode in its view till I saw them joyn’d at y^e poynt, and saw the jsland of Sily w^ch is 7 Leagues off y^e Lands End. They tell me that in a Cleer day those in the Island Can discern the people in the 224maine as they goe up y^e hill to Church, they Can Describe their Clothes. This Church and Little parish w^ch is Called Church town is about a mile from the poynt. The houses are but poor Cottages Like Barns to Look on, much Like those in Scotland, but to doe my own Country its right y^e Inside of their Little Cottages are Clean and plaister’d and such as you might Comfortably Eate and drink in, and for Curiosity sake I dranck there and met w^th very good bottled ale. The Lands End terminates in a poynt or Peak of Great Rocks w^ch runs a good way into y^e sea, I Clamber’d over them as farre as safety permitted me, there are abundance of Rocks and Sholes of stones stands up in the sea a mile off some here and there, some quite to y^e shore, w^ch they name by severall names of Knights and Ladies Roled up in mantles from some old tradition or ffiction—Y^e poets advance description of y^e amours of some Great persons; but these many Rocks and Stones w^ch Lookes Like y^e Needles in y^e Isle of Wight makes it hazardous for shipps to double y^e poynt Especially in stormy weather. Here at y^e Lands end they are but a Little way off of France, 2 dayes saile at farthest Convey them to Hauve de Grace in France, but y^e peace being but newly entred into w^th y^e Ffrench I was not willing to venture at Least by myself into a fforreign Kingdom, and being then at y^e End of y^e Land, my horses Leggs Could not Carry me through y^e deep, and so return’d againe to Pensands 10 mile more, and soe Came in view of both y^e seas and saw y^e Lizard point and Pensands and y^e Mount in Cornwall w^ch Looked very fine in y^e broad day, the sunn shineing on y^e rocke in y^e sea. Then I continued my returne from Pensands to Hailing and now y^e tyde was down and so much Land appeared w^ch lay under water before, and I might have forded quite a crosse, many y^t know y^e country do, but I tooke y^e safer way round by y^e bridge. Here is abundance of very good Fish tho’ they are so ill supply’d at Pensands because they carry it all up y^e Country East and Southward. This is an arme of y^e North Sea w^ch runs in a greate way into y^e Land, its a Large Bay when y^e sea comes in and upon y^e next hill I 225ascended from it could discover it more plaine to be a deep water and y^e supply of y^e maine ocean. Just by here lay some ships and I perceived as I went, there being a Storme, it seemed very tempestious and is a hazardous place in the high tides; so I came to Redruth. I perceive they are very bleake in these Countryes especially to this North Ocean and y^e winds so troublesome they are forced to spin straw and so make a caul or net work to lay over their thatch on their Ricks and out houses, w^th waites of Stones round to defend y^e thatch from being blown away by y^e greate winds, not but they have a better way of thatching their Houses w^th Reeds and so close y^t when its well done will last twenty yeares, but what I mention of braces or bands of straw is on their Rickes w^ch only is to hold a yeare. These places as in some other parts, indeed all over Cornwall and Devonshire, they have their carryages on horses backes, this being y^e time of harvest, tho’ later in y^e yeare than usuall being y^e middle of septemb^r, but I had y^e advantage of seeing their harvest bringing in, w^ch is on a horse’s backe w^th sort of crookes of wood like yokes on either side—two or three on a side stands up in w^ch they stow y^e corne and so tie it w^th cords, but they cannot so equally poise it but y^e going of y^e horse is like to cast it down sometimes on y^e one side and sometimes on y^e other, for they load them from y^e neck to y^e taile and pretty high and are forced to support it w^th their hands, so to a horse they have two people, and the women leads and supports them as well as y^e men and goe through thick and thinn—sometymes I have met with half a score horses thus Loaded—they are Indeed but Little horses their Canelles as they Call them, and soe may not be able to draw a Cart, otherwise I am sure 3 or 4 horses might draw 3 tymes as much as 4 horses does Carry and where it is open Ground and roads broad, w^ch in some places here it was, I wondred at their Labour in this kind, for the men and the women themselves toiled Like their horses, but the Common observation of Custom being as a second nature people are very hardly Convinc’d or brought off from, tho’ never soe jnconvenient.

226 From Redruth I went to Truro 8 mile, w^ch is a pretty Little town and seaport and formerly was Esteemed the best town in Cornwall, now is the second next Lanstone. Its just by y^e Copper and tinn mines and Lies down in a bottom, pretty steep ascent as most of the towns in these Countrys, that you would be afraid of tumbling w^th nose and head foremost. Ye town is built of stone—a good pretty Church built all stone and Carv’d on y^e outside, it stands in y^e middle of y^e town, and just by there is a market house on stone pillars and hall on y^e top; there is alsoe a pretty good key. This was formerly a great tradeing town and flourish’d in all things, but now as there is in all places their Rise and period soe this, w^ch is become a Ruinated disregarded place. Here is a very good meeteing but I was hindred by y^e raine y^e Lords day Else should have Come to hearing, and so was forced to stay where I Could hear but one Sermon at y^e Church, but by it saw y^e fashion of y^e Country being obliged to go a mile to y^e parish Church over some Grounds w^ch are divided by such stiles and bridges uncommon, and I never saw any such before; they are severall stones fixed aCross and so are Like a Grate or Large Steps over a Ditch that is full of mudd or water, and over this just in the middle is a Great stone fixed side wayes w^ch is the style to be Clambered over. These I find are the ffences and Guards of their Grounds one from another, and Indeed they are very troublesome and dangerous for strangers and Children. I heard a pretty good Sermon but that w^ch was my Greatest pleasure was the good Landlady I had, she was but an ordinary plaine woman but she was understanding in the best things as most,—y^e Experience of reall religion and her quiet submision and self Resignation to y^e will of God in all things, and especially in y^e placeing her in a remoteness to y^e best advantages of hearing, and being in such a publick Employment w^ch she desired and aimed at y^e discharging soe as to adorne y^e Gospel of her Lord and Saviour, and the Care of her Children. Indeed I was much pleased and Edify’d by her Conversation and y^e pitch of Soul Resignation to y^e will of God and thankfulness 227that God Enabled and owned her there in, was an attainment few reach y^t have greater advantages of Learning and knowing y^e mind of God. But this plainly Led me to see that as God himself teacheth soe as none teacheth Like him, soe he Can Discover himself to those immediately y^t have not the opportunity of seeing him in his sanctuary, and therefore to him we must address for help in this or any Duty he Calls us to, both in the use of what meanes he appoynts as alsoe for success and blessing on it.

From Truro w^ch is 9 mile from Ffallmouth and 4 mile from Trygolny w^ch was y^e place I was at before w^th my Relation, that would have Engaged my stay with them a few dayes or weekes to have given me the diversion of the Country, and to have heard the Cornish nightingales as they Call them, the Cornish Chough—a sort of Jackdaw if I mistake not—a Little black bird w^ch makes them a visit about Michaelmas and gives them y^e diversion of the notes w^ch is a Rough sort of musick not unlike y^e Bird I take them for, so I believe they by way of jest put on the Cornish Gentlemen by Calling them nightingales; but the season of the year enclined to raine and y^e dayes declineing I was affraid to delay my Return, and these parts not abounding w^th much accomodation for horses, theirs being a hard sort of Cattle and Live much on Grass or ffurses of w^ch they have y^e most, and it will make them very ffatt being Little hardy horses, and as they jest on themselves do not Love the taste of oates and hay, because they never permit them to know the taste of it. But my horses Could not Live so, Especially on journeys, of w^ch I had given them a pretty exercise, and their new oates and hay suited not their stomach. I Could get noe Beanes for them till I Came back to S^t Columbe againe w^ch from Truro by S^t Mitchel was 12 miles mostly Lanes and Long miles. As I observed before I saw noe windmills all these Countrys over, they have only the mills w^ch are overshott and a Little rivulet of water you may step over turns them, w^ch are the mills for Grinding their Corn and their ore or what Else. From S^t Columbe I went to Way bridge 6 Long miles. 228There was a river w^ch was flowed up by y^e tyde a Greate way up into the Land, it Came from y^e north sea, it was broad, y^e bridge had 17 arches.

Thence to Comblefford over steep hills 9 mile more, some of this way was over Commons of Black moorish Ground full of Sloughs. The Lanes are deffended w^th bancks wherein are stones, some Great rocks, others slaty stones, such as they use for tileing. Comblefford was a Little market town but it was very indifferent accomodations, but the raines y^t night and next morning made me take up there till about 10 oClock in the morning; it then made a shew of Cleering up made me willing to seek a better Lodging. 2 mile from this place is a Large standing water Called Dosenmere poole in a Black moorish Ground and is fed by no rivers except the Little rivulets from some high hills yet seemes allwayes full w^th out Diminution and flows w^th y^e wind and is stored with good ffish, and people Living near it take y^e pleasure in a boate to goe about it. There is alsoe good wildfowle about it; it seemes so be such a water as the mer at Whitlesome in Huntingtonshire by Stilton its fresh water and what supply it has must be the rivulets y^e must Come from y^e south sea being that wayward towards Plymouth. As I travelled I Came in sight of a great mountaine esteemed the second highest hill in England supposeing y^e account Black Combe in Cumberland y^e first, but really I have seen soe many Great and high hills I Cannot attribute preeminence to Either of these tho’ this did Look very Great and tall, but I thinke its better said the highest hill in each County.

I travelled 4 pretty Long miles much in Lanes and then Came into a Common where I Cross’d the Great roads w^ch on the Right hand Leads a way to Plymouth and the south sea, the Left hand to Bastable and the north sea, w^ch Conveys the stone or rather marble w^ch they take from hence at Bole, remarkable Quarrys for a Black stone, Exceeding hard and Glossy Like marble, very Dureable for pavements. This they send to all parts in tyme of peace and London takes off much of it.

Here I Rode over a Common or Down 4 mile Long in 229sight of y^e North sea and saw Hartly poynt which is the Earle of Baths just by his fine house Called Stow, his fine stables of horses, and Gardens. There I discern’d the Poynt very plaine and just by I saw the jsle of Lundy which formerly belonged to my Grandfather William Lord viscount Say and Seale, w^ch does abound with ffish and Rabbets and all sorts of ffowles, one bird y^t Lives partly in the water and partly out and so may be Called an amphibious Creature, its true that one foote is Like a turky the other a gooses foote; it Lays its Egg in a place the Sun shines on and sets it so exactly upright on the small End and there it remaines till taken up and all the art and skill of persons Cannot set it up soe againe to abide. Here I met with some showers w^ch by fitts or storms held me,—to Lanston 4 mile more, these 12 mile from Cambleford was not Little ones and what with the wet and Dirty Lanes in many places I made it a tedious journey. I Could see none of the town till just I was as you may say ready to tumble into it, there being a vast steep to descend to when the town seemed in a bottom yet I was forced to ascend a pretty good hill into the place. Lanston is the chief town in Cornwall where the assizes are kept, I should have remarked at y^e Lands End that Pensands was the Last Corporation in England, soe this is one of y^e Last Great towns tho’ noe Citty, for Cornwall is in y^e Diocese of Devonshire w^ch is Exeter.

There is a Great ascent up into the Castle w^ch Looks very Great and in good repaire the walls and towers round it, its true there is but a part of it remaines, the round tower or fort being still standing and makes a good appearance. The town is Encompass’d w^th walls and gates, its’ pretty Large tho’ you Cannot discover the whole town, being up and down in so many hills. The streetes themselves are very steep unless it be at the market place where is a Long and handsome space set on stone pillars w^th the town hall on the top, w^ch has a Large Lanthorne or Cupilo in the middle, where hangs a bell for a Clock with a Dyal to the streete. There is in this place 2 or 3 good houses built after the London form by some Lawyers, Else the whole town is 230old houses of timber work. At a Little distance from the town on a high hill I Looked back and had the full prospect of the whole town which was of a pretty Large extent. A mile beyond I crossed on a stone bridge over a river and Entred into Devonshire againe, and pass’d through mostly Lanes w^ch were stony and dirty by reason of y^e raines y^t ffell the night before, and this day, which was the wettest day I had in all my summers travells, hitherto having had noe more than a shower in a day and that not above 3 tymes in all except when I Came to Exeter. As I Came down from Taunton there was small raine most of the afternoon but this day was much worse, so that by that tyme I Came through Lanes and some Commons to Oakingham w^ch was 15 mile I was very wet. This was a Little market town and I met with a very good Inn and accomodation, very good Chamber and bed and Came in by 5 of the Clock, so had good tyme to take off my wet Cloathes and be well dryed and warme to eate my supper, and rested very well without sustaining y^e Least damage by the wet. I should have Remark’d that these roads were much up and down hill thro’ enclosed Lands and woods in y^e same manner the other part of Cornwall and Devonshire was, gaineing by degrees the upper Grounds by one hill to another and soe descending them in Like manner. These raines fully Convinced me of y^e need of so many Great stone Bridges whose arches were soe high that I have wonder’d at it because the waters seemed shallow streames, but they were so swelled by one night and dayes raine y^t they Came up pretty near the arches and ran in most places w^th such rapidity and Look’d so thick and troubled as if they would Clear all before them. This Causes Great floods, and the Lower Grounds are overwhelm’d for a season after such raines, so that had I not put on and gotten beyond Lanston that day there would have been noe moveing for me till the flouds w^ch hourly encreased were run off.

Next day I went to Cochen Well 10 mile, mostly good open way except a hill or two w^ch were steep and stony, tho’ this was the Longer way and about, yet by reason of y^e former raines it was the safest, for y^e Lower way was run 231over by the waters w^ch are Land flouds from the swelling Brookes, w^ch are up in a few hours and are sunck in the same tyme againe—the wayes were somewhat Dirty. Thence to Exeter 10 mile more, but this was the basest way you Can goe and made much worse by these raines, but its narrow Lanes full of stones and Loose ground, Clay, and now exceeding Slippery by the raines.

A quarter of a mile on this side of the town I stood on a high banck from whence the prospect of y^e Citty of Exeter was very pleasant, Could see it to great advantage, y^e Cathedrall and other Churches Spires w^th y^e whole town, w^ch in generall is well built, w^th y^e good Bridge over y^e Ex, w^ch is a fine river on whose Banckes are severall Rows of trees all below the town. The walks all about it augments the beauty of y^e Citty. From whence I went to Topsham 3 miles which is a Little market place and a very good Key; hither they Convey on horses their Serges and soe Load their shipps w^ch Comes to this place, all for London. Thence I saw Starre Cross where the Great shipps Ride and there they build some shipps. This was up the river, 5 or 6 miles up y^e river, but the tide being out Could not goe and it was ten mile by Land and their miles are soe Long here I would not goe it seing almost as well the shipps y^t Lay there as if at the place.

Thence I returned to Exeter 3 mile where I had been very Kindly Entertained by M^r Goswill and his wife, w^ch was one my broth^r S^r Edmond Harrison did Employ in Buying Serges. From Exeter I went to Honiton 15 mile, all fine Gravell way, y^e best Road I have met with all in the west. Here it is they make the fine bone lace in imitation of the Antwerp and Flanders Lace and jndeed I think its as fine—it only will not wash so fine, w^ch must be the fault in y^e thread. Honiton is a pretty large place, a good market house, near it a good Church w^th a round tower and spire w^ch was very high and a Little peculiar in its forme, somewhat Like a Pigeon house Rooffe. Here is a very Large meeteing of Descenters. Thence I went to Axminster 7 mile more, but not soe good way being much in Lanes stony 232and Dirty and pretty much up and down hills, Like y^e other parts of those Countrys.

Beyond Axminster where I passed over the river Ax on a pretty Large Bridge I Came to Somersetshire againe. This Axminster is a Little market town and the London Road by Chard, but I struck out of that road 2 mile off the town to Liegh w^ch was 4 mile from Axminster, to a Relations house M^r Hendlys, w^ch stands on a hill, but its such an Enclosed Country and narrow Lanes you Cannot see a Bow shott before you, and such up and down steep hills. Its an old house, and Large Court w^th open gates that enter you into a passage, on the Right hand a good Parlour new wanscoated, next that a Kitchen and pantrys Leads into a Court where all the offices are and stable and Coach houses. On the Left side of y^e passage at y^e Entrance is a Large old hall w^th a Great halfe pace at y^e upper End w^th 2 Chimneys in the hall. This Leades into a passage on the Left hand and so through to another parlour w^th good old fashion Carved wanscoat. The roomes are low, out of y^e passage Leads up a paire of staires to 3 or 4 roomes all Low and but one well furnished; then out of same passage below is a doore into the Gardens w^ch are one Lower than the other with stone stepps, its Capable of being very handsome if made with open Grates to set one out to see y^e orchards and woods beyond. They were a turffing y^e walks and makeing banks in order to it. Y^e house alsoe is Capable of alteration to a good house if the windows were made Lower and y^e roomes fitted w^th wanscoate and good ffurniture. Just to the front there is design’d a visto to be Cut thro’ the wood to the water side w^ch will be very fine being on a descent.

About a mile from hence is one M^r Preadneas house, a fine old house and well furnished but they permit none to see it, soe I saw it not only drove by it to see my Cozens Little Girle at nurse and soe returned home againe a mile, and then from Liegh I went through narrow stony Lanes up hills and down, w^ch steeps Causes the water on raines to trill down on the Low ground that for a few hours or a day there will be noe passing in y^e bottom, w^ch happen’d while 233I was at Liegh; one nights Raine put the Cattle in the meddows swimming and hindred us from going to Church, the water would have Came over the windows of the Coach. These stony Lanes I passed till I Came to the Great road which Comes from Lime, here I Entred into Dorsetshire and soe went through a Little town Called Maiden Newton eight mile more, and soe thence to Dorchester town 6 mile more; all a fine hard Gravel way and much on the downs—this is good Ground and Much for sheep. Thence I went to Blandford 12 Long miles thro’ Piddletown Milborn and WhitChurch. There I staid with my relation Cos’n Collier, Husys and Ffussells, thence to Salisbury 18 mile. When I had passed 6 mile I Came through a Gate w^ch brought me into Wiltshire and soe over y^e downs to Salisbury and from thence to Newtontony 7 miles.

I went from Newtontony to Sarum and home againe 3 tymes w^ch made it 42 miles in all, then to Wallop 4 miles and home again 4 miles, and to Grattly twice and back againe 12 mile, and to Cholderton twice 4 miles, to Allington and home 2 mile more, then to London.

From Newtontony to Winchester 15 mile, there I went to see a Relation M^rs Horne thence Alsford 8 mile. The Little raines I had in the morning before I Left Newtontony made the wayes very slippery, and it being mostly on Chaulk way a Little before I Came to Alsford forceing my horse out of the hollow way his feete failed and he Could noe wayes recover himself, and soe I was shott off his neck upon the Bank, but noe harm I bless God and as soone as he Could role himself up stood stock still by me, which I Looked on as a Great mercy—indeed mercy and truth all wayes have attended me. The next day I went to Alton 10 miles thence Ffarnum 9 miles more. This proved a very wet day, after an hours Rideing in the morning it never Ceased more or Less to raine, w^ch made me put in at Ffarnum and stay all the day after I Came in at noone. But then it began to raine much faster and soe Continued. Thence next day I went over the fforest in sight of Ffairly Castle w^ch is the Bishop of Winchesters pallace, it Lookes 234nobly on a hill, thence to Bagshott 9 miles, thence to Winsor over the fforest 7 Long miles, this way most Clay deep way, the worse by reason of y^e raines and full of Sloughs. About a mile off Windsor Castle appeares standing on a hill much after the manner of Durham w^th y^e walls and battlements round, only that is all stone and this is but partly soe and y^e rest Brick plaister’d over in imitation of stones w^ch does not Look so well. It is a pretty great ascent to y^e town w^ch is well built, something suitable to London by reason of its affinity to y^e Court, and I saw the Cathedrall or S^t Georges Church w^ch is very fine built all stone and Carved on y^e outside, severall Cloysters Leads to the Doctors houses—its a Lofty noble building. The quire is properly S^t Georges Chappel whose Rooff is very high and Carved very Curiously, all free stone, so is the rest of y^e Church. There hangs up y^e Banners and Ensignes of honour belonging to y^e Severall Knights of the honourable order of y^e blew garter, their Complement is 26, there was one void at this tyme by the Death of y^e Earle of Peterborough. There is a Greate Cerimony in their Inauguration, their seates are of Wanscoate Carved which are all quite round the quire, w^th Each Garters and Coate armours and banners on the top, and when they are jnstalled. their Garments are blew velvet, in shape Like the Coapes, Lined w^th white Sattin or silk, that and their blew Garter in which hangs a George on horseback besett w^th jewels and a Diamond Garter put on their Right Leg, which is performed by 2 of y^e former Knights of the order, which is given them by the King that is the Principal of y^t order. Then they have an oath Given them to maintain the Rights and Cerimonyes of said order and soe are seated in their seates. There are Great fees paid by each new Knight to y^e officers to the poore Knights of Windsor, whose seates are just under y^e Seates of the Knights of y^e Garter, 18 poore Knights of Windsor w^ch have houses provided for them about the Cloyster and 48^£ p^r annum each besides their perquisits at such tymes. There are alsoe 18 singing men and petty Cannons, those that are preachers has houses and 30^lb p^r annum each, but the others have but 22^lb each a yeare and houses to Live in. These 235all have their ffees at the jnstalment of Each Knight of the Garter and of this order are severall Princes and Great men both here and in forreign Parts.

There is a very Large fine organ at y^e Entrance of the Quire, the alter is Crimson velvet striped w^th Gold tissue, Large Candlesticks and Basons Gilt. At the jnstallment there is a Great deale of plaite set out w^ch belongs to the Chappel. Over the alter is a painting of Christ and his twelve apostles at y^e passover supper very naturally drawn, and over it a Large window full of fine paintings—the history of the testaments. Y^e Quire is paved all with black and white marble under which is a Large vault for y^e Royal family. There Lyes King Henry y^e 8^th and King Charles the first &c. There is in the Church a tombe and vault of y^e Duke of Norfolks familly w^th steele Carvings all about it very Curious, and to add to its variety it may be all taken piece by piece and put up in a box, its a very Large thing and great variety of work—this is on the Right side of the alter.

There is in a Little Chappel by, a very fine monument with two Large Statues in alabast^r Painted and gilt all at Length in their garments, and round the tomb stone are the Statues of their Children, 7 daughters, four of them were twinns and soe represented being put together, and 3 sonnes, all alabaster, and there is a role of matt under the head of the Lord and Lady that was so naturall, Looked like real Matt. This was Lord Earle Lincolns tomb. There is another monument of the Earle of Rutlands, the first of the family w^ch was Earle 100 year since, it was in the yeare ano: Dom: 1513: there is round that 6 Sonns and six Daughters with Carvings of other Images holding their Coates of armes. There is another monument w^ch is of y^e old Duke off Beaufort who was base son to King Edward the 4^th, and therefore there is a barr of reproach aCross the English arms w^ch he bears. There is another statue of white marble in a Leaneing posture almost Lyeing quite along and they say its very Like his Effigie—this was the Bishop of Chichester. There is another Bishops Effigie in y^e wall just to y^e waste of alabaster. There is a Chappel 236in w^ch are prayers at 8 of y^e Clock at night. There is a white marble ffont. The rooff of the quire is very Curious, Carv’d stone and soe thinn to y^e Leads one might grasp it between thumb and finger, and yet so well fixt as to be very strong. From thence I proceeded on to y^e Castle w^ch is the finest pallace y^e King has Especially now White hall is burnt; but that was old buildings and unless it were the banqueting house and the apartment which our good Queen Mary beautifyed for herself that was never soe well as Winsor. You Enter in through a gate; on the right hand is a tower which is built w^th Redouts and walks round it as was Durham Castle. Its 120 stepps up where is the Guard roome hung with armes, thence a Dineing roome, the Duke of Norfolks appartment, a Drawing roome and two bed Chambers, one w^th a half bedstead as the new mode, dimity w^th fine shades of worstead works well made up—there are good Pictures. The next roome has such a bed but that is fine Indian quilting and Embroidery of silk. The tower on the Leads is as many stepps more, I walked round it and Could see a Great prospect of the whole town and Winsor fforest and the Country round to Kensington, I Could see Lord of Hollands house and Rowes of trees, and to Harrow of the hill, and to Shooters hill beyond London, and the town of Winsor Looked very well. There were severall noblemens houses, Duke S^t Albans and fine Gardens, Just by it is the Lord Guidolphins house and Gardens; there I Could see the fine walk or rather Road planted with trees of a huge length into y^e fforest, w^ch King Charles made for his going out in Diversion of shooteing, and here I could see y^e river Thames w^ch twists and turns itself round y^e meddowes and Grounds. Upon this tower w^ch is most tymes moist, all in the walls grows y^e best maiden haire both white and black, w^ch is an herb much esteemed for Coughs and to put into Drinks for consumption.

Thence I proceeded on to a Large Court Like the Quaderangle at Christ Church College in Oxford, or Trinity in Cambridge, in the middle of which is a statue of King Charles y^e Second on horseback all of brass, and is railed 237in w^th Iron spikes; round this Court are the Buildings w^ch are y^e severall appartments of the Lords of y^e bed Chamber, and the Ladies; also one side is the Lodgings belonging to the princess Ann of Denmarke w^ch are all of stone and well built and beautifyed. In the middle you Enter a Large pair of jron gates finely Carv’d into a paved Large space supported w^th several rows of Stone Pillars, and ascending up Large Staires, which Enters you into the Queens Guard Chamber hung full of armoury, w^ch is so Exactly set, the Pikes set up like Pillars and such distances, y^e muskets Laid a long one above the other y^e boxes for y^e powder, and the Edge of y^e Cornish is Pistols set as thick as they can be set, and above it are drums and helmets and back and breast armour. The Chimney piece is of y^e same; swords in the middle, there poynts turned outward, with a round of Little Pistolls set Close in quarter Circle; its all exactly uniforme and very handsome. Next into a noble Hall w^ch has very fine paintings, this is the Standard for Curiosity in all places you see painting, its done by the same hand did the paintings att Winsor. The top is full of all sort of varietys, in the middle is King Charles’s Picture, y^e sides are all descriptions of Battles, and between Each Picture in the Pillars is y^e George and Blew garter and Starre, at y^e upper End is the Large Picture of S^t George Encountering y^e dragon and at the Lower End is y^e picture of y^e King that first Instituted this order of the Blew garter, and in putting it on himself on his son, who was just returned victor from some Considerable Battle. I should have noted in my Remarks of the Cerimonies of that order that when any Dies and a Garter Drops they make a solemn offering up of all their Ensignes of honour to y^e Church and then take them down and pay some ffees as well as at their Entrance into it. From this roome I Entred into y^e Chappel under the gallery or Closet the King and Queen sets in at prayers, this was supported by four Brass Gyants or Else painted Like Brass. This seate of y^e Kings Lookes into y^e Chappel, its Crimson velvet, all the jnside and Cannopy w^th y^e Cloth w^ch hung over it all alike Richly Embroyder’d with Gold fring. This is the house Chappel 238and is Exceeding beautifull, y^e paintings of the rooffe and the sides which is y^e history of Christs miracles his Life and the good he did in healing all distemper, w^ch are described at Large here and Lookes very Lively. There is alsoe the most Exactest workmanship in y^e wood Carving, which is as the painting the pattern and masterpiece of all such work, both in ffigures, fruitages, beasts, birds, fflowers, all sorts, soe thinn y^e wood, and all white natural wood without varnish. This adorns the Pillars and void spaces between the paintings, here is as Great qualiety so much for Quantety. There was a pretty alter at y^e upper End and two gallerys for y^e musick.

Thence I went up staires into a Large dineing roome, Damaske Chaires and window Curtaines, wanscoated, and severall fine pictures. The Rooffe of this was well painted also, but they are soe Lofty its enough to Breake ones neck to Looke on them. Thence into a Gallery full of Pictures w^th a Large Looking Glass at y^e End. Thence into y^e Drawing roome where is the Large Branch of silver, and y^e sconces round y^e roome of silver, silver table, and stands, and Glass frames, and Chaire frames. Next is y^e queenes Chamber of state, all Indian Embroidery on white Sattin being presented to her by y^e Comp^y. On it is Great Plumes of white ffeathers, there is very good tapistry hangings full of gold and silver, but they are Large old ffigures. Here’s a silver table, and stands, and Glass fframe. There was a raile set a Cross at y^e beds ffeete w^ch reached Each side of y^e roome, made of sweate wood frames and open Wires in y^e middle, and was to be Doubled together in Leaves as a screen: this was instead of y^e raile use to be quite round y^e King and queens beds to keep off Companyes Coming near them.

Thence into an anti-roome through a Little Gallery or passage, thence into y^e Kings dressing roome almost all Glass; y^e Chimney piece is full of Great stone heads in nitches or hollows made for them, of some Emperours. Y^e windows of all y^e roomes are Large sashes as big as a good Looking-glass and are all diamond Cut round the Edges, the height of y^e windows makes them Looke narrow. 239Thence into the kings Constant bed Chamber, being one of y^e halfe bedsteads of Crimson and Green damaske, jnside and outside the same hangings, and Chaires and window Curtaines the same; it was Lofty and full with good ffringe, and there was such another screen or raile at y^e ffeete of the bed that tooke y^e Length of the roome as in the queens Chamber; here was tables, stands, Glass frames, Gilt gold, fine Carving on the Chimney pieces, both here and in y^e queens’ appartment. Y^e next was ye Chamber of State w^ch is noble. Indeed, very Lofty and painted on y^e roofe as they all are. The bed was green velvet Strip’d down very thick with Gold orrice Lace of my hands breadth, and round the bottom 3 such orrices and Gold ffring all round it and gold tassels; so was the Cornish. The jnside was y^e same, at the head piece was Like Curtaines ffringed round w^th gold and tyed back w^th Gold strings and tassells as it were tyed back and soe hung down in the middle, where was the Crown and sypher Embroyder’d; the hangings y^e same and such another screen aCrosse the roome to secure the bed from y^e Common. Next this is the drawing roome of state, the Cannopy and throne and y^e part behind is all green velvet Richly Embroyder’d with silver and Gold, of high Emboss’d work, and some Curiously wrought Like needlework that you Can scarce see y^e Ground or stuff its wrought on, and the Crown of Crimson velvet Embroyder’d just over the Chaire or throne of state; the ffoot-stoole the same, w^ch was all set on a half pace or part raised above y^e rest as the manner is, with, a fine Carpet over it. The Cannopy was so rich and Curled up and in some places soe ffull it Looked very Glorious, and was newly made to give audience to the Ffrench Embassadour to shew y^e Grandeur and magnificence of the British Monarch—some of these ffoolerys are requisite sometymes to Create admiration and regard to keep up the state of a kingdom and nation.

Thence I went into the Common audience roome, where was a throne on such a raised space w^th a Carpet. This throne and Canopy and y^e back with Stooles and Chaires was Crimson and Gold Coullour’d ffigured velvet. Out of 240this I Came into a Large roome for people to wait in, painted with black and white and gold—Description of some ffights and men in armour. Thence into the Kings Guard Chamber w^ch is deckt as the Queens, the walls being adorned w^th y^e severall armes put in Exact order, only in y^e pillars or spaces here they hang the Bandaleers which holds their powder. In the mantle piece there was noe difference, but in y^e middle was the starre and soe set about with y^e pistols and swords. Thence I descended Large staires of stone, and soe through a Court back to y^e walk of pillars, and soe through the Large jron gate into the Courts one without another all built round.

Winsor town Lookes well, the streetes Large, the Market Cross on stone pillars and a Large hall on the top; from thence the streete runs along to y^e Bridge over the Thames and there you Enter Buckinghamshire and a quarter of a mile off, tho’ jndeed there is building all along. There is Eaton Colledge a good stone building Carved on y^e outside, its round a square. There is at the ffront a Large schoole roome—400 schollars and 8 fellows w^ch have 400 a piece yearely. Y^e master has 1000^£, he payes all the ushers, in number seven; there is alsoe an under master for the Little schollars, this was ffounded by King Edward the Confessour and Endowed so richly by him, and on the same ffoundation is the revenues of y^e Cathedrall and y^e poore knights w^ch goe in a peculiar black gown like fryers. All their salleryes and y^e repaire of the Cathedrall is taken Care of by y^e same ffoundation, w^th y^e Colledge, not but there is a Little Chappel to y^e Colledge w^th in itself for Every dayes prayers. The Chappel and schoole room takes up two sides of the square, the two others is the Lodging for y^e ffellows and for y^e schollars; then y^e middle there is an arch w^ch Leads to y^e Cloyster and soe into their kitchen and Cellars which are very Convenient and high but pretty old. Just by is the great Hall in w^ch they eate, the schollars and fellows and masters should eate with them. This is the same ffoundation as Kings Colledge in Cambridge so y^t those schollers that are fitt to be removed to y^e University at y^e Election are sped to Kings Colledge in Cambridge and 241so are advanced as they Can get friends into ffellowshipps to Either. Ffrom Windsor I went to y^e fferry 3 mile and Rode in sight of y^e Castle on this side w^ch is all y^e K: and Q: appartments and Lookes very noble, y^e walls round w^th y^e battlements, and Gilt balls and other adornments. Here I fferry over y^e Thames and so went a nearer way which is a private road Made for y^e kings Coaches and so to Colebrooke 3 mile more. Thence to Houndslow-heath and so to London 12 mile more, then I went to Bednallgreen 4 miles and home againe 4 mile more, and here ends my Long journey this summer in w^ch I had but 3 dayes of wet except some refreshing showers sometymes, and I thinke y^t was not above 4 in all the way and it was in all above 1551 miles and many of them Long miles, in all which way and tyme I desire w^th thankfullness to own y^e good providence of God protecting me from all hazard or dangerous accident.

It Cannot be thought amiss here to add some remarke on y^e metropolis of England. London whose scituation on so noble a river as the Thames w^ch Emptyes it at y^e Boy of y^e Nore, being there joyned w^th y^e Medway another very fine river alsoe, and falls there into y^e sea w^ch is about 30 miles from London, and is an Ebbing flowing river as farre as Sheen beyond London. This is very Comodious for shipps w^ch did Come up just to y^e bridge, but from Carelessness y^e river is Choaked up, that obliges y^e shipps to Come to an anchor at Blackwall. All along this river are severall docks for building shipps of y^e biggest burden; six miles from the town y^e Last yeare was built y^e Royal Souveraign w^ch is our greatest ship. London joyned w^th Westminster, which are two great Cittyes but now w^th building so joyned it makes up but one vast building with all its Subburbs, and has in y^e walls ninety seven Parishes, without y^e walls 16 parishes, 15 subburbs, Surrey, Middlesex, 7 parishes in Westminster.

London is y^e Citty properly for trade, Westminster for y^e Court, y^e first is divided into 24 wards to each which there is an alderman, and themselves Consist of Common Council men and all freemen of the Citty, and have power to Choose these aldermen and make their own orders and to maintain their own priviledges. All freemen or Livery men of this 242Citty hath a Right to Choose their sherriffs of w^ch Every yeare there is two, one for Middlesex y^e other y^e Corporation, but both are joyned and officiate together in all matters of juries justice or Ceremonies, and to maintaine all Rights. These freemen alsoe have their voyce in Choice of their Lord Major w^ch is done Every yeare with this Sollemnity, the Sheriffs being Chosen and sworne at Mid summer, y^e Michaelmas after y^e Lord Major is Chosen and sworne; y^e evening before which is Simon and Judes day is a feast Called Calveshead feast. Next day y^e old Lord Major Comes to meete y^e new one and w^th him on his Left hand is Conducted on horse back in all their gowns of scarlet Cloth Lined w^th ffurr; all y^e aldermen in Like Robes only differenc’d as their station, those of them w^ch have been Lord Majors weare a Gold Chaine Ever after, but those y^t have not passed y^e Chaire weare none. Y^e Lord Major is allwayes one of y^e aldermen and he has a great gold Chaine round his neck, the Sheriffs also weare a gold Chaine round their neck y^t yeare. Thus on horseback they proceed two and two w^th all their officers. Y^e Lord Major has his Sword bearer w^ch walkes before him w^th the Sword in an Embroyder’d Sheath he weares a Great velvet Cap of Crimson, the bottom and y^e top of ffurr or such Like standing up Like a turbant or Great bowle in forme of a Great open Pye, this is Called y^e Cap of Maintenance. This is y^e Lord Majors Chiefe officer, he holds his place Dureing his Life and has 1500 a yeare allowed him for his table w^ch in all things is as good as Lord Major’s and he Entertaines all people at it, yet he himself must officiate at the Lord Majors table to see all things in order and Comes in at sett tymes accordingly to performe them and bring y^e Lord Majors Compliments to y^e Campanyes. He thus walkes before the Lord Mayor w^th y^e water Bayliff beareing a Gold Mace &c. At Fleete ditch they Enter y^e Barges w^ch are all very Curiously adorned and thus he is Conducted y^e river being full of Barges belonging to y^e severall Companyes of London, adorned with streamers and their armes and fine musick, and have sack to drinke and Little Cakes as bigg as a Crown piece. They Come to Westminster staires where 243they Land and are Conducted, the Lord Majors traines being borne up as well y^e old as new Lord Major, they Enter Westminster Hall and are Conducted to y^e severall Courts of justice where there is severall Ceremonyes perform’d. The new Lord Major is presented to y^e King or those deputed to act under him and then is sworne, all which being over they are Conducted back to their Barges and soe to y^e staires they took barge, where they are received by some of y^e nobility deputed by the king who make some Little speech of Compliment and Give y^e Lord Major and aldermen a treate of wine and sweet meates passant. They mount on horseback and returne only y^e new Lord Major takes y^e right hand and haveing by y^e sheriffs invited y^e King and Court to dinner, w^ch sometymes they accept but mostly refuse, because it puts the Citty to a vast Charge; they being then Conducted through y^e Citty w^th Greate acclamations their own habits and trappings of their horses being very fine, and they haveing all the Severall Companyes of y^e Citty w^ch walke in their order and gowns w^th pagents to most or many of their Companyes, w^ch are a sort of Stages Covered and Carryed by men and on y^e top many men and boys acting y^e respective trades or Employ^ts of Each Company, some in shipps for y^e Merch^ts and whatever Company the new Lord major is off his pageant is y^e finest and y^t Company has y^e precedency that yeare of all y^e Companyes Except y^e mercers Company, w^ch allwayes is the first and Esteemed y^e Greatest, and when there is a Lord Major of y^t Company their pageant is a maiden queen on a throne Crowned and with Royal Robes and scepter and most richly dressed, w^th Severall Ladyes dressed, her attendants, all on y^e same pageant and w^th a Cannopy over her head and drawn in an open Chariot w^th 9 horses very finely accouter’d and pages that Ride them all, w^th plumes of feathers. After being drawn through y^e Citty she is jnvited by y^e Lord major to a dinner provided on purpose for her, and soe many Rich Batchelors are appointed to Entertaine her that is a ranck among y^e freemen. She has her traine bore up and is presented to Lady Majoris that salutes her as doth the aldermens Ladyes, all w^ch are Conducted 244in their Coaches to Guildhall. The new Lady Majoress Richly habitted has her traine borne up, and Introduced by one of the officers. The Sheriffs Ladyes Likewise weares gold Chaines that yeare, the Lady majoress does wear it ever after as doe all y^e aldermens Ladyes whose husbands have been Lord majors, and as I said before y^e Lord Majors must be aldermen and must have served as sheriffs before, and allwayes y^e king Confers Knighthood on the person that is Chosen to be Sheriff unless he were a knight before.

In Guild Hall there are severall long tables plenty fully ffurnished w^th all sorts of varietyes suiteable to the season, w^th fine Desserts off sweetemeates, and jellys w^ch in Pyramidyes stand all y^e tyme; the hott meate is brought in in first and second Courses. The Lord Major and Lady Majoress sitt at the upper End but in Case the Court is there then the Lord Major has one table, y^e Lady another, and y^e old Lady Majoress is set at y^e Left hand of y^e new Lady, and the aldermens Ladyes at her Right hand according to their senioritye, after which they Retire into a Gallery where is danceing the whole Evening.

All this yeare Lord or Lady Majoress goe no where but w^th their officers to attend them, and y^e old Lord Major and Lady Majoress has their traines bore up to Guild Hall and after dinner return without it. The whole affaires of y^e Citty are managed by y^e Lord Major and Court of aldermen and Common Councill men, he is obliged to take care of justice and Right, he does during his yeare jnvite Each Company w^th all their Masters Wardens and officers twice—the Last tyme all their wives alsoe—the Sherriffs doe y^e Like. Each person brings their Gift two, three Guinneas, some more and according to their Gift at y^e Last Entertainment they have a silver spoon double Gilt, Either weighing soe many ounces and soe many as they Give Guinneas many tymes in the yeare: those y^t would shew particular respect will go dine w^th them and bring presents without haveing spoones.

All offices falling vacant in the Majoralty acruee to Lord Major to dispose off. There are 24 Companyes w^ch 245have each severall officers, as masters wardens &c., and doe meete to fix and maintaine their priviledges. They doe walke at y^e Lord Majors day and make sumptuous feasts at Each hall appertaineing to their Comp^y w^ch is at y^e Charge of y^e masters and wardens w^ch are officers Chosen new Every yeare. They have great stocks and Lands belonging to their Companyes Common stock, and w^ch does maintaine schooles and Hospitalls and such Like w^ch from tyme to tyme are Encreased by severall Benefactors and Legacyes, some of w^ch are greate as in y^e Mercers Company which have Lands to a great value for such Ends. There are severall feasts which Lord Major and Sherriffs are absolutely obliged to make at their first Entrance into their offices, two dayes following each other, and y^e first day of y^e terme to all y^e judges, and 3 dayes at Easter going to hear a sermon at S^t Brides Each day, and then to jnspect y^e severall Charityes and hospitalls y^t all be kept in due order and provided for. Y^e Lord Major and Sherriffs attends the King at all tymes to represent y^e Publick affaires of y^e Citty and receive his orders, they alsoe officiate at y^e proclaiming any new King or Queen or to Declare peace or warr, w^ch is done in Greate solemnity by y^e King at Arms and severall of y^e nobillity in Coaches or on horseback, and y^e officers of y^e kings household.

King Williams return after y^e peace was Concluded w^th Ffrance and y^e Confederates, the Kings Entry was in this manner, y^e Lord Major in Crimson velvet Gown w^th a Long traine on horseback attended by all his officers y^e sword bearer and water Baily very well dress’d. Y^e Common hunt was Clad in Green velvet, thus with all y^e aldermen in their scarlet gowns they proceeding to receive y^e King just at y^e End of Southwark on y^e borders of Kent, the Lord Major Carrying a scepter w^th a Crown of pearle on y^e top. Y^e King was attended thus, ffirst of all his soldiers and officers marched in Ranke, y^e aldermen and Lord Major and officers, then all y^e nobillity in their Coaches, the Bishops and judges, then y^e first Coach of y^e King w^th his household, then y^e guards of his body, and then the Coach where in y^e King was, w^ch was a very rich and Costly thing 246all y^e fring Rich Gold, y^e Glass very Large, the Standards and all outwork Like beaton Gold, drawn by 8 very fine white horses with Massy Gold harness and trappings, the Ffrench kings present to our king when the peace was concluded, y^e first article of w^ch was owning King William king of England. After the kings Coach a troope of guards de Corps, then the third Coach of y^e Kings w^th his houshold, and other Coaches with Severall officers of the houshold; then as the king passed Southwarke the Baily presented him his mace, he returned it with y^e usuall Ceremony and Grattification; then at y^e bridge y^e Lord Major demands his place and y^e sword, w^ch is to March as Captⁿ of y^e Kings guards just Imediately before y^e kings own Coach, w^ch accordingly was given him and he returns the said scepter to y^e proper officers who bear y^t and all y^e Maces before him, and he bare headed beares y^e sword on horseback just before the kings Coach. At y^e same tyme y^e water baily rides in the middle of y^e guards as their officer and is on horseback, two men Like pages Leading it, soe is Lord Majors in this order: they proceeding through the Citty w^ch from y^e Royal Exchange on Each side had placed the traine bands of the Citty with their officers, next them y^e 24 companyes of y^e Citty in their order and marks of their Honour and priviledges, w^ch reached to y^e Conduite in Cheapside, all w^ch paid their respective Homage and duty to y^e King who receiv’d it very kind and obligeingly, as he did y^e Generall joy and acclamations w^ch proceeded from thousands which were spectators. At Pauls Schoole y^e Schollars made him a speech and then he was Conducted to his own pallace at Whitehall. But before I leave the Citty of London I must describe its Building and treasure. Y^e Government as I said was Lord Major, aldermen, sherriffs, Recorder, and Chamberlaine, and other officers as Common serjeant, and other sergeants, sword Bearers, water Bayly, Common Cryer, and y^e town Clerke; all these with many other officers has Considerable salleryes and Endure their Life, Except y^e Chamberlaine thats annually Chosen tho’ mostly is in the same person againe. Those others are in the Lord 247Majors dispose and brings a greate advantage to him if any dye in his Majoralty. There is alsoe many Considerable perquisitts belonging to him to support y^e honnour. The Citty plaite is kept for Each, notwithstanding in y^e year it Costs them more many tymes than they Receive, and in the whole I have had it from one y^t had been at y^e charge said it was above 8000^£ in y^e year.

There is as I said great Publick Stock in the Citty by which they have raised sumptuous Buildings, the Royal Exchange for one, a Large space of Ground Enclosed round w^th Cloysters and open arches on w^ch are built many walkes of Shopps of all trades. Y^e middle space below was design’d and is used for the merchants to meete to Concert their buisness and trade and bills, w^ch is all open and on y^e top of these Piaza’s are y^e Effigies in stone of most of our kings and Queens since y^e Conquest w^ch were anoynted Crowned heads, from whence this Exchange takes its name Royal. In y^e midst of it stands in stone work on a Pedestal y^e effigies of King Charles y^e second railed in w^th Iron spikes. There is alsoe at y^e Bridge a Great Monument of stone worke as is y^e Exchange; this is of a Great height 300 stepps up and on y^e top gives y^e view of y^e whole town. This was sett up in memory of Gods putting a Check to y^e Rageing flame w^ch by y^e plotts and Contrivance of y^e papists was Lighted. There is a Large Inscription on it all round mentioning it, and alsoe of y^e popish plott and y^e gun powd^r treason and all by y^e papists.

The Bridge is a stately building all stone w^th 18 arches most of them bigg Enough to admit a Large Barge to pass, its so broade that two Coaches drives a breast, and there is on Each side houses and shopps just Like any Large streete in y^e Citty, of w^ch there are many and well built, Even and Lofty, most has 5 if not 6 degrees. Most of y^e Halls belonging to Each Company are Large and Magnificent buildings, as alsoe y^e Churches very fine and Lofty of stone work. Ye Greate Cathedrall is S^t Pauls w^ch was a vast building but burnt by fire, has since by y^e Citty been built up, or rather a tax on Coales w^ch brings all to pay for it in London. It now is almost ffinish’d and very magnificent, 248the Quire w^th Curious Carved work in wood, y^e arch Bishops seate and y^e Bishop of Londons and Lord Majors is very finely Carv’d and adorned, y^e alter alsoe with velvet and gold; on y^e Right side is placed a Large Crimson velvet Elbow chaire w^ch is for the Dean. This is all finished (w^th a sweet organ) but y^e body of y^e Church w^ch is to be Closed on y^e top w^th a Large Cupilo is not quite done. There was formerly in y^e Citty severall houses of y^e Noblemens w^th Large gardens and out houses and Great attendances, but of Late are pulled down and built into streetes and squares and Called by y^e names of y^e noblemen, and this is the practise by almost all even just to y^e Court Excepting one or two.

Northumberland and Bedford house, and Lord Mountagues house indeed has been new built and is very fine, one roome in y^e middle of y^e building is of a surpriseing height Curiously painted and very Large, yet soe Contrived y^t speake very Low to y^e wall or wanscoate in one Corner and it should be heard w^th advantage in y^e very opposite Corner aCross—this I heard Myself. And this Leads me to y^e Citty of Westminster in w^ch are many of these noblemens houses built into very fine squares. Y^e kings pallace was a most magnificent building all of freestone, w^th appartments suiteable to y^e Court of a King, in w^ch was a Large roome Called the Banqueting-roome w^ch was fitted for and used in all Publick solemnityes and audiences of ambassadours &c. This is y^e only thing Left of y^e vast building which by accident or Carelessness, if not designe, has Laid it in ashes together w^th Exceeding Rich furniture of antiquity, as alsoe y^e greate and good Queen Mary’s Closet and Curious treasures. This has all along y^e prospect of y^e Thames on one side and a Large parke on y^e other, walled in, which is full of very fine walkes and rowes of trees, ponds and Curious birds Deer, and some fine Cows. In this parke stands another pallace S^t James, w^ch is very well and was built for some of y^e Royal Familly as y^e Duke of Yorke or Prince of Wales. There is at Whitehall in y^e privy Garden a Large pond w^th a spout of water of a vast height. This 249of S^t James is Little but daily building adding may make it greate.

There is alsoe one Nobleman’s house, is this Parke House w^ch is a very Curious Building. Just by this parke you Enter another Much Larger, Hide-parke, w^ch is for Rideing on horseback but mostly for y^e Coaches, there being a ring railed in round w^ch a Gravel way y^t would admitt of twelve if not more rowes of Coaches, w^ch y^e Gentry to take y^e aire and see each other Comes and drives round and round; one row going Contrary to each other affords a pleaseing diversion. The rest of y^e parke is green and full of deer, there are Large ponds w^th fish and fowle. Y^e whole Length of this parke there is a high Causey of a good breadth, 3 Coaches may pass and on Each side are Rowes of posts on w^ch are Glasses—Cases for Lamps w^ch are Lighted in y^e Evening and appeares very fine as well as safe for y^e passenger. This is only a private roade y^e king had w^ch reaches to Kensington, where for aire our Great King W^m bought a house and filled it for a Retirement w^th pretty gardens. Besides these y^e king has a pallace in y^e Strand w^th fine gardens all to y^e Thames river, this appertaines to y^e Queen Dowager while she Lives. In this place was y^t cruel Barbarous Murder of S^r Edmund Berry Godfrey by y^e papists. Westminster is remarkable for haveing in it y^e ancient Large abbey w^ch is a most magnificent Building of stone finely Graved, and within is adorned w^th severall monuments of our Kings and Queens and great personages.

In Harry y^e sevenths Chapple Layes our Great and good as well as Ever Glorious King William, and Queen Mary his Royal Consort and joinctly on y^e throne of these kingdoms, whome noe tyme Can ever obliterate y^e memory off, their being Englands deliverers in Gods hands from popery and slavery w^ch King James by y^e King of Frances power was involving us in. This abby alsoe is y^e place where y^e sollemnityes of the Kings interrments and Corronations are performed of which shall give a perticular.

At y^e Death of a Prince which I have been a mournfull spectator or hearer of two of y^e most Renowned y^t ever was, 250King William and queen Marys, the Queen Dying before the king he ommitted noe Ceremony of Respect to her memory and remains w^ch Lay in State in Whitehall in a bed of Purple velvet all open, the Cannopy y^e same w^th Rich gold fring, y^e middle being y^e armes of England Curiously painted and Gilt, y^e head piece Embroyder’d Richly w^th a Crown and Cyphers of her name, a Cusheon of purple velvet at y^e head on w^ch was y^e Imperiall Crown and Scepter and Globe, and at y^e feete another such a Cusheon w^th y^e sword and Gauntlets on the Corps w^ch was rowled in Lead, and over it a Coffin Cover’d w^th purple velvet w^th the Crown, and Gilt in Moldings very Curious. A Pall on all of a very Rich tissue of gold and silver, Ruffled round about w^th purple velvet w^ch hung down on y^e ground, w^ch was a halfe pace railed as y^e manner of the Princes beds are. This in a roome hung w^th purple velvet full of Large wax tapers, and at y^e 4 Corners of the bed stood 4 of y^e Ladyes of y^e bed Chamber—Countesses—w^th vailes; these were at severall tymes relieved by others of y^e same. Y^e anty Chamber hung with purple Cloth and there attended four of y^e Maids of honnour all in vailes, and y^e Gentlemen of the bed Chamber, pages in another roome all in black, y^e staires all below the same. Y^e Queen dyeing while y^e parliam^t sate, y^e King gave mourning to them, 500 and Clerks, w^ch attended thus: their Speaker haveing his traine bore up, then y^e Lord Major y^e same, and attended by y^e aldermen and officers all in black, and y^e Judges; then y^e officers of the houshold, then y^e Guards, then y^e Gentleman master of y^e horse Led the queens Led horse Cover’d up w^th purple velvet, next Came the open Chariot made as y^e bed was, the Cannopy y^e same all purple velvet, a high arch’d teister Ruffled, w^th y^e Rich fring and pall, w^ch was supported by Six of y^e first Dukes of y^e Realme that were not in office. This Chariot was drawn by the Queens own 6 horses Covered up with purple velvet and at y^e head and feete was Laid y^e Emblems of her dignity, the Crown and Scepter on a Cushion at y^e head, and Globe and Gauntlets at y^e feete, after which the first Dutchess in England as Chief mourner walked supported by these 251Lords, the Lord president of y^e Councill and y^e Lord privy Seale, she haveing a vaile over her face, and her traine of 6 yards Length being bore up by the next Dutchess assisted by four young Ladyes. After w^ch two and two y^e Ladies followed and Lords, all Long traines according to their ranke, y^e Bishops Likewise all on foote on black Cloth strained on boards, from Whitehall to Westminster abby where was a sermon, in w^ch tyme y^e body of y^e queen was reposed in a masulium in form of a bed w^th black velvet and silver fringe round, and hanging in arches, and at y^e four Corners was tapers and in y^e middle a bason supported by Cupids or Cherubims shoulders, in w^ch was one Entire Great Lamp burning y^e whole tyme. Then after y^e service of burial w^ch is done with solemn and mournfull musick and singing, ye sound of a Drum unbraced, the breakeing of all y^e white staves of those that were y^e officers of y^e queen, and flinging in y^e keys of the rest of y^e offices devoted by y^t badge into y^e tomb. They seale it up and soe returne in same order they went. There is allwayes a high steward made for all solemnityes of y^e Kings and Queens and he is only soe for that day, and he goes just before the Led horse. The pages also Lead all y^e horses that draws y^e Chariot, and the yeaumen of y^e guard walks on Each side all y^e way. This is y^e manner of publick funeralls but if it be Kings then the Ladyes attend not. Y^e next Ceremonys is the Crowning the Kings and Queens of England w^ch is done in this manner as I have seen it. The Prince by Letters Summons all the nobility to be ready to attend them such a day—its usually on S^t Georges day—by the Earle marshall at Westminster Hall, another Greate Building which containes the Parliament houses and the courts of justice, and requests all—w^ch shall Describe hereafter. But as I said they being Come to this Westminster Hall y^e Dean of Westminster abbey w^th prebends &c comes with the Crown, scepter, swords and orb and all the Regalias, it being in their Custody w^ch are all put on y^e table. Y^e prince does appoynt these all to be Carryed by severall Lords; then there being blew Cloth spread from y^e Hall to y^e Abby w^ch is all railed in and Lined with foote and horse 252Guards, the Procession beginns thus. First four drums two and two as is the whole procession, these beate y^e March; then the 6 Chancery Clerkes, then the Chaplaines that have Dignityes, then the aldermen of London and y^e masters in Chancery, y^e Solicitor Generall, y^e Attorney General, then the Gentlemen of the privy Chamber, next the judges, then the Children of the Kings Chappel, then the Choir of Westminster, then the gentlemen of the Chapple, next y^e Prebends of Westminster, then the Master of y^e jewel house, then goes the Privy Counsellors y^t are not Peers of the realme, then two Pursuivants goe, next them goes y^e Barronesses in Crimson velvet Robes Lined w^th Earmine, and Cut waved in a Long traine Lined with white sarsnet, the sleeves were open to the shoulder, tyed up there with Silver Cords and tassells hanging down to y^e wast, the sleeves being fringed w^th silver, under w^ch fine point or Lace sleeves and Ruffles, w^th Gloves Laced or w^th Ribon gold and white, their peticoates were white; some tissue Laced w^th gold or silver, and their stomatchers some were all Diamonds; over all they had mantles of y^e same Crimson velvet Lined w^th Earmine and fastened to the shoulder, on w^ch there was a broad Earmine Like a Cape reaching to y^e waste powder’d w^th rowes according to their Degree, y^e barroness 2 rows, the viscountess 2 rows and halfe, the Countesses 3 Rowes, the Marchoness 3 rows and a halfe, the Dutchesses 4 Rows, the Queen 6; these all having Long traines suiteable to their Robes and were in Length as their Degree. Y^e Barronesses had their traines 2 yards and a quarter drawing on the ground, the Viscountess 2 yards and halfe, y^e Marchionesses 2 yards 3 quarters, y^e Dutchess 3 yards drawing on the Ground. Their heads were dress’d w^th much haire and Long Locks full of Diamonds—some perfect Peakes of bows of Diamonds as was the Countess of Pembrook,—their heads so dress’d as a space Left for their Coronets to be set, all y^e rest is filled w^th haire, Jewells and gold, and white small Ribon, or Gold thinn Lace, in form of a peake, and gold gause on their rowles, they have also Diamond necklaces and jewels on their habitts. Each 253Carry their Corronets in their hands w^ch does also Distinguish their Dignityes. The Barrons is a velvet Cap w^th a Coronet of Gold, w^th six great pearles or what resembles them a white Gilding in that form. Y^e Viscounts Coronet is a Gold set w^th 16 pearles of Like sort set very Close together. Ye Earles Coronet is of Gold w^th spikes, on y^e tops of which are Laid pearles w^ch stands at a Distance; and have Leaves at y^e frame. Y^e Marquess’s Coronet is Gold alsoe w^th spikes of Leaves of y^e same at distances, between w^ch are those pearles much Lower just proceeding from y^e frame. The Dukes are a Double row of Leaves y^e one standing up at distances, y^e others between, Low by y^e frame.

The Dukes, Marquess’s, Earles, Viscounts, and Barrons, are Differenced as the Ladyes are by their Rows of Earmine on their Mantles—they all being Clad w^th Rich vests under their Robes, and trimm’d gloves of Lace or fringe, fine Linnen, and Carry their Coronets in their hands. Only those that are knights of y^e garter weare a Chaine of Gold S S on their shoulders upon their Earmine Cape, and have their George hanging to it, their Starr on y^e breast of their Robes and a Diamond garter on their Leg w^th blew Ribon. In this manner habited proceeds y^e Barronesses and Barrons, then the Bishops that sit in y^e Parliam^t as peeres their habit is Lawn sleeves and Black, their Capps are flatt Like a 4 square trencher put on Cornerwise; after which went a pursuivant, then in same order y^e Viscountesses and next y^e Viscounts; then two Heraulds, then in same order the Countesses and next the Earles, then a Herauld, then in y^e same order y^e marchionesses next y^e marquisses, then two heraulds, then in the same order the Dutchesses, next them the Dukes, then two Kings at armes, after which y^e Lord Privy Seale, next him Lord President of y^e Councill. Then y^e ArchBishops w^ch are Esteemed in higher Rank than y^e Dukes, then a Duke w^ch is of y^e Royal family w^th their traine bore up, Prince George of Denmarke being Royal Consort to Queen Ann walked so haveing his traine bore by the vice-Chamberlaine, the Prince is Duke of Cumberland w^ch is y^e first Duke; 254next goe two personages in Robes of state, but of an antique forme, velvet and Earmine w^th Hatts of Gold tissues, personateing y^e two Dukes of Acquitaine and Normandy w^ch belongs to y^e English Crown. Next them went the Lord w^ch bore S^t Edmunds staff, w^th a Lord that bore the Gold Spurrs, another Lord with y^e Scepter Royal, 3 other Lords following w^th y^e sword of justice, y^e Curtana sword of mercy, and another poynted sword, next which S^r Garter King at armes between my Lord Major and the usher of y^e black Rod. These Heraulds dress in Coates full of y^e Kings armes all about with Gildings, and hang short w^th Long sleeves and sleeves hanging behind alsoe. Next y^e Lord High Chamberlaine single, then next an Earle beares y^e sword of State between y^e Earle Marshall and y^e Lord high Constable, made for y^t Dayes Solemnity. Next goes an Earle Beareing y^e Scepter of y^e Dove, next y^t a Duke Carrying y^e Globe orb, next went a Duke w^th y^e Crown w^ch must be Lord High Steward for that dayes Solemnity, next went a Bishop w^th y^e Bible between two other Bishops y^t Carryed y^e pattent and y^e Challice w^ch Last appertaines to y^e Dean of Westminster. Next this the Cannopys and in Case there is a King then his Consort goes before him in this manner under a Cannopy of Cloth of Gold borne up by 8 Barrons of y^e Cinque ports, and is supported by two Bishops, and her Coronet or Crown is alsoe Carryed by a Lord before, and alsoe a silver Rod by another Lord, w^ch when she returns she holds in one hand and the Little scepter. Her traine is bore up by y^e first Duchess of y^e Realme assisted by 4 maiden Daughters of Earles and her Robes ought to be only Crimson velvet, but King James’s Queen would have purple, but never Changes them as doth a Queen that is Regent in her self y^e Principal, as Queen Ann and her sister Queen Mary joinct in y^e throne w^th King William. All w^ch in some things makes a Difference as shall show, for y^e Queen Consort as King James’s queen was not anoynted nor sworne unless as a subject to y^e King and walked thus before him, after which y^e King Came under another Cannopy of gold tissue supported by 8 more of 255y^e Barrons of the Cinque-ports; he leaned on two Bishops, his traine borne up by the Lord w^ch is Master of his robes assisted by four Lords sonns. These Cannopyes have silver staves for Each person to hold them up by. In y^e Case of King William and Queen Mary that were set joynctly on the throne anoynted both and sworne by y^e Coronation oath, they Likewise walked both under one of these Canopyes made very Large supported by y^e 16 Barrons, and on y^e outside of Each went a Bishop on whome they Leaned, Leading Each other; and their traines were bore, the Kings by y^e Lord w^ch is master of y^e Robes, the Queen by y^e first Dutchess and young Ladies. And soe their throne was Entire two seates and their Cannopyes one at y^e table, but now as in Case of our present Majesty Queen Ann I saw her thus; her Cannopy was Large bore by y^e sixteen, and she because of Lameness of y^e Gout had an Elbow Chaire of Crimson velvet w^th a Low back, by w^ch meanes her mantle and Robe was Cast over it and bore by the Lord Master of y^e Robes and y^e first Dutchess, w^th 4 maiden Ladies, Earles Daughters on Each side Richly Dress’d in Cloth of Gold or Silver, Laced, w^th Long traines, Richly Dressed in fine Linnen, and jewells in their hair, and Embroider’d on their Gowns. The Queens traine was 6 yards Long, the Mantle suitable of Crimson velvet with Earmine as y^e other of y^e nobility, only the rowes of powdering Exceeded, being six rowes of powdering. Her Robe under was of Gold tissue, very Rich Embroydery of jewellry about it, her peticoate the same of Gold tissue w^th gold and silver lace, between Rowes of Diamonds Embroyder’d, her Linnen fine. The Queen being principall of the order of y^e Garter had a row of Gold S S about her shoulders, y^e Georges w^ch are allwayes set with Diamonds and tyed with a blew Ribon. Her head was well dress’d w^th Diamonds mixed in y^e haire w^ch at y^e Least motion Brill’d and flamed. She wore a Crimson velvet Cap with Earmine under y^e Circlet, w^ch was set with Diamonds, and on the middle a sprig of Diamonds drops transparent hung in form of a plume of feathers, for this Cap is y^e Prince of Wales’s Cap w^ch till after y^e 256Coronation that makes them Legall king and queen—they weare. Thus to y^e quire doore she Came, then Leaveing y^e Cannopy—(y^e Chaire she Left at y^e Abby doore—) she is conducted to y^e Alter which was finely deck’d w^th Gold tissue Carpet and fine Linnen, on the top all y^e plaite of y^e abby sett, y^e velvet Cushions to place y^e Crown and all y^e regallias on. She made her offering at y^e Alter, a pound weight or wedge of gold, here the Dean of Westminster and y^e prebends which assists the Arch-Bishop in the Cerimonyes are arrayed in very Rich Coapes and Mitres, black velvet Embroyder’d w^th gold Starrs, or Else tissue of gold and silver. Then the Littany and prayers are sung and repeated by two Bishops w^th a small organ, then the Queen being seated on a green velvet Chaire faceing the pulpit attends y^e words of y^e sermon w^ch was by y^e arch-Bishop of York, w^ch being ended y^e Queen arose and returned thanks for y^e Arch-bishops Sermon, is shewed to y^e people by saying a form, Will you take this to be your Souveraigne to be over you? thus I saw the Queen turn her face to y^e four sides of y^e Church, then the Coronation oath is repeated to her, w^ch she distinctly answered each article, which oath is very Large in three articles, relateing to all priviledges of y^e Church and State to which she promised to be the security and to maintaine all to us. Then she kiss’d y^e Bible, then a Bible was presented to her to maintaine y^e true Protestant religion. Then she being on a Little throne by the alter, Cover’d all w^th Cloth of Gold, she has y^e spurrs of gold brought her and they toutch her heele, then the sword of state is presented her which she offers up on the alter, w^ch a Lord appoynted for it redeemes y^e sword for 100 shillings, and draws it out and beares it naked all y^e day. After the other swords are brought and presented her w^ch she delivers to y^e severall officers, then the ring is put on her finger to witness she is married to the Kingdom, then the orb I saw brought and presented to her and y^e Scepters. Then she was anoynted in this manner; there was a Cloth of silver twilight Embroyder’d, held a Little shaddowing over her head. I saw y^e Bishop bring y^e oyle on a spoone soe annoynted y^e 257palmes of her hands, her breast and her forehead, Last of all y^e top of her head, haveing taken off y^e prince of Wales’s Cap and y^e haire being Cutt off Close at y^e top y^e oyle was poured on and with a fine Cloth all Dryed againe. Then Last of all y^e arch Bishops held the Crown over her head w^ch Crown was made on purpose for this Cerimony vastly Rich in Diamonds, y^e borders and y^e Globe part very thick sett w^th vast diamonds, y^e Cross on y^e top with all diamonds w^ch flamed at y^e Least motion, this is worth a vast summe, but being made for this Cerimony and pulled to pieces againe, its only soe much for the hire of such Jewells that made it. This I saw was fix’d on y^e Queens head w^th Huzza’s and sound of Drumms trumpets and gunns, and at the same tyme all y^e peeres and peeresses put on their Coronets on their heads. There are divers forms of speech that belong to each Cerimony. Y^e Queen after this goes to y^e alter and there I saw her receive the Sacrament, I saw the deane bring her y^e bread and wine. Then she is Conducted with her Crown on, her Globe and Scepter in her hand and seated on y^e Royal throne of y^e Kingdom w^ch is of gold finely wrought, high back and armes set on a theatre of severall steps, assent rises on four sides to it. She being thus seated is followed w^th a second Huzza and sound of drums and trumpets and Gunns, then all y^e Lords and Bishops pay their homage to her; the Eldest of Each ranke swears fidelity to her in his own name and in y^e name of all of his ranck. They all singly come and touch her Crown and some kiss her Right Cheeke—they make all do soe,—she kisses the Bishops. All this while anthems are sung and the Medals are Cast about by the treasurer of y^e houshold, after w^ch the Queen arose and went and made her second offering, sate down on the throne on w^ch she was annoynted and Crown’d. After, an anthem is sung proper for the tyme, after w^ch the Queen retired into King Edwards Chappel to private prayer, w^ch being ended and her Crimson velvet mantle being taken off and one of purple velvet made just y^e same put on, in y^e same manner they returned Each one in his station, only the Lords y^t Carryed the Regalias now tooke 258their places as peers with y^e rest, y^e Queen walked to y^e doore of y^e abby w^th obligeing Lookes and bows to all y^t Saluted her and were spectatours, w^ch were prodigious numbers in Scaffolds built in the Abbey and all the streetes on each side reaching to Westminster hall, where the Queen againe quitted her Chaire w^ch was Carryed by four men, the whole procession being both going and comeing attended by y^e gentlemen pensioners Clad in Scarlet Cloth w^th gold Lace, Holding halberds w^th gold tops Like pick-axes. These make a Lane for the queen to pass and follow two and two, next them y^e groomes of the bed Chamber, then the Captaine of y^e guards went between y^e Captaine of y^e pensioners band and the Captain of y^e yeaumen, and were attended by their officers and yeamen.

The queen being Come up to her table w^ch was a great rise of stepps she was seated on her throne w^ch was under a fine Cannopy. When King James was Crown’d he sate soe: at his Left hand sate his Queen under another Cannopy, but King William and Queen Mary being both principalls sate under one Large Cannopy on one Large throne, but our present Queen should have sate alone as she did in the upper End under y^e Cannopy, but she sent and did invite Prince George her Consort to dine with her. So he Came and at her request tooke his seate at her Left hand without the Cannopy. The first Course was served just before the Queen Came in, She being ushered in by the Earle Marshall, Lord High Steward, and Lord high Chamberlaine on horseback, their horses being finely dress’d and managed, and the Cookes Came up with their point aprons and towells about their shoulders of poynt; after w^ch Comes up the Lord high steward againe on horseback, with the other two Lords, and acquaints the king or queen there is their Champion without ready to Encounter or Combate with any that should pretend to dispute, after w^ch he is Conducted in on horseback by the Earle Marshall and y^e Lord high steward, and they Come up to the stepps of the throne, and there the Champion all dress’d in armour Cap-a-pe and declares his readyness to Combate w^th any that should oppose the Right of their Majestyes, and there upon throws down his guantlet 259w^ch is giving Challenge, after w^ch the King or Queen drinks to him in a Gold Cup w^th a Cover, y^e same w^ch is Carryed to y^e Champion and he drinks, and then he retires back and Carrys it away being his Due as is the best horse in the kings stable, y^e best suite of armour in y^e armory. This belongs to S^r John Dimmocks familly y^t hath a yearly salery from the Crown. My Lord Major here officiates as y^e kings Butler, and hath for a Reward such another Cup of gold Covered and thus the Ceremony Ends and they all retire. Westminster Hall is as full of spectatours sitting on scaffolds on Each side, under w^ch are severall Long tables spread and full of all varietyes prepared for the Lords and Ladies, others for the judges, aldermen &c.

When there is a Rideing Coronation they proceed on from y^e abbey when a king is Crowned, all on horseback thro’ y^e Citty in y^e same order as at the Entry at y^e peace, quite to y^e Tower all richly dress’d and their horses w^th fine trappings, Led on both sides by Each Lords pages, and when its a King only, then only y^e Lords attend as in y^e Coronation of King Charles the second, but at Queen Elizabeths the Ladies alsoe attended to y^e Tower which is at the utmost extremity of y^e Citty of London, where the Governour presents the King with y^e Keyes which he returns againe and after some other Cerimonyes and makeing some Knights of y^e Bath Either six or Eight I Cannot tell which. These are an order that prefferr such a knight above all other knights, but is not so high as a Barronet and it alsoe expires at their Death descending not to y^e son; they wear a scarlet Ribon round their shoulder Like a belt: then they all return back to the pallace; Usually the rideing Coronation holds two dayes.

The tower is built just by y^e Thames, thereon many gunns are placed all round, its built of free stone, four towers. In one is y^e amunition and powder, Called y^e white tower, w^ch is kept very secure w^th 6 keyes w^ch are kept by six persons. In another part the Coynage is where they refine, melt, form, stamp and Engrave all y^e money w^ch is managed by severall over w^ch there is y^e Comptroler of y^e mint. In another part is kept severall Lyons w^ch are 260named by y^e names of y^e kings, and it has been observ’d that when a king has dyed y^e Lion of y^e name has alsoe dyed.

There are also other strange Creatures kept there, Leopards, Eagles &c &c w^ch have been brought from forreign parts. In another place is kept the Crowns and all y^e Regalias, as orb, scepters, swords. The Crown that is made on purpose to Crown a prince is pulled to pieces againe and they only reserve an old large Crown of King Harry y^e seventh in form of a Ducall Coronet, and y^e Crown w^ch is used for the passing of bills, of w^ch here after. This hath Large pearles on y^e Cross and an Emerauld on y^e top of y^e head w^ch Closes the bands w^ch goes every way of y^e sides to y^e round frame full of Diamonds and Saphyr’s and Rubies w^ch y^e frame at y^e bottom is also enchased with. This Large Emerauld is as bigg as an Egg all transparent and well Cut: the Globe is alsoe sett w^th diamonds representing y^e Lines on the Celestial Globe. The middle or body of y^e Tower is full of armour of all sorts and placed in Each roome w^th great Curiosity Like a ffurniture on y^e walls and kept very bright and fine. And now I shall return to y^e Hall att Westminster where are all y^e Courts of justice kept. There are severall parts out of y^e hall for y^e Court of y^e Kings Bench for tryal of all Causes by jurys, Grand juryes and petty jurys, to manage w^ch there is a Lord Chief Justice and three other Judges his assistants, where matters are heard by Councellors, attornys and solicitors to plead y^e Cause in the Court. All these formerly were but few in number when buisness was not delayed but brought to a quick jssue and persons had matters decided quicker, but now they are increased extreamely and Consequently buisness Lengthened out for their profit. There is alsoe another Court of y^e Common pleas to w^ch is another Chiefe Justice, the first is Call’d the Lord Chiefe Justice of the Kings Bench Court, y^e other the Lord Chiefe Justice of y^e Common pleas—he hath alsoe three Judges assistants. This Court is in something the same nature managed as y^e former, only that matters of Life and death are not here tryed or determined, that belongs to y^e Kings Bench. 261There is alsoe the Exchequer Chamber which is another Court and managed by a Lord Chiefe Baron and 3 other Barrons assistants, w^ch are all judges, and all first sergeants and in this manner are fitted, having been Entred at such an age into any of y^e jnns of Court of w^ch there are many in y^e town, Lincolns-inn, Grays-inn, Ffurnifulls-inn, Clemens-jnn, Cliffords-inn and others. The Temples Likewise are such where they are students in the Law and goe to hear Causes and are trained up in that Learning w^ch is grounded on our Laws, the Magna Charta Law of the whole kingdom by w^ch all matters are or may be decided. After soe many yeares studdy and being thus Entred they are Called to y^e barr—y^t is to plead as Councellors and Barristers in these Courts, and out of such that have been thus Barristers many yeares they Commence serjeants, and are made in this manner the first day of a terme. They walk two and two in their Gowns from y^e Temple to Westminster Hall where Each that is designed for serjeants stand with their Back to y^e Barr of the Court at a Little distance, y^e puny judge on the Bench sayes to the Lord Chief Justice, my Lord I think I spye a Brother; the Lord Chief Justice replies truly Brother I thinke its soe indeed, send and bring him up to be examined whether capable or well quallify’d; w^ch is done and after severall questions he is sworn and has a Coiffe put on his head, which is a black satten Cap w^th a white Lace or Edge round y^e bottom and thus he is received into their number and soe returned. They have a feast and pay their fees which is considerable all to maintain the Court out of such as are sergeants. The king makes judges and gives them salleryes; all the judges doe weare scarlet robes Lined with furr. These twelve judges sitt in the House of Lords on wooll packs, not as peers but as Councellors to informe the house of what is their former Laws, and to decide matters that Come before them if relating to the Law, and soe are only their officers and Cannot put on their Caps without permission of y^e Lords. There is alsoe another Court for justice w^ch is Called the Court of Equity or Chancery. The other Courts properly Judges of the matters of Right by Law this as to the Equitty of it, w^ch is managed 262by a Lord Chancellor or a Lord Keeper, w^ch is not in soe high a station nor at so vast expence, but answers the Ends of the other as to the Buissness—is Called Lord Keeper because he keepes the great seale of England w^ch makes all authentick that passes it. This sometymes is managed in Commision by three, but many tymes by one single person, he allwayes sitts in the house of Lords alsoe and is y^e speaker of y^e house of Lords. Under him there is the Master of the Roles w^ch is his deputy and in the others absence acts in the Court as Chiefe. This Court keeps all the Records and statutes, there are two registers belongs to it with six masters which are alsoe the under justices, and six Clerks w^ch have all their Respective offices and Enter all things. Under them is the 60 Clerks and other under writers. This formerly was the best Court to relieve the subject but now is as Corrupt as any and as dilatory. The Causes in the Chancery are heard and Refferr’d to some of the masters and they report the matter againe, and soe from the notion of this being a Court of Equitty and so gives Liberty for persons to make all the allegation and reasons in their Cause, which much delayes y^e dispatch, which formerly was of a very good advantage to prevent a huddling up a Cause without allowing tyme for y^e partys to produce their evidences or Right, but now by that meanes is soe ill managed that it admitts of heareing, Re-heareing over and over on the Least motion of y^e Contrary party, that will pretend to offer new reason matter for delaying judgment, that by this it accrues great advantage to y^e Lawyers that have all their fees each motion and may be so Continued many yeares to sometyme y^e ruin of the Plaintiffs and deffendants. A small gratuiety obteine an order to delay till the next terme and so to another.

There are four termes in a yeare, one at Easter, another at Midsumer, and at Michaelmas, and Candle-mass, at which tymes these Courts of justice are open for tryal of y^e Causes belonging to their Courts, and holds a fortnight or more, one three weekes, another a month, one 5 weekes; but there are sealeing dayes w^ch hold much Longer and this between Easter and Midsumer terme joyns the tymes. 263Y^e Last terme is the shortest but the seales hold Longer. After this is the Long vacation being the heate of the weather and tyme of harvest in which tyme alsoe are the assizes in all the Countys in England, for at y^e End of the Midsummer terme y^e Judges takes y^e Circuites assigned Each, usual the Lord Chiefe Justice of England w^ch is of y^e Kings Bench Chuses the home Circuit w^ch is the County adjacent all about London, w^ch is a Less fatigue and more Easily perform’d. Two judges must goe in Each Circuite and in all places the one sitts on the Bench of Life and Death, y^e other on buisness de-nise-prises, and soe they exchange in all the places they Come, y^e judge y^t was on the Life and death at one County, in the next takes y^e barr of the nais prisse and so on. There is one Called the Northern Circuit w^ch is a Long one and takes in Wales; there is the Western Circuite alsoe: this takes up 6 of y^e 12 judges and Barrons.

But all this while there must be two at Least Left in London to heare and attend y^e sessions of y^e Old Bayly which is kept once a month both of Life and death and Common pleas.

In all these sessions at y^e Old Bayly y^e Lord Major is the judge and sitts as such, but Leaves the management of the Law to the Chiefe justice or Judges which ought to be two. There is the Recorder of y^e Citty also another justice who after y^e judge has summon’d the Evidence does alsoe summ it up, and this is in all the tryals at the Kings Bench, alsoe here the sword Bearer is a officer, and Common Cryer, and alsoe the two Sherriffs attends, they impanell the Jury and their office is so necessary y^t at the death of a Sherriff as happened Last yeare the Buissness of the terme happening then stood still till another was Chosen and sworne.

The Recorder of the Citty is allwayes knighted and soe is the Chamberlaine of the Citty. Now in the assizes in all the Countyes of England the sherriff of the County Comes to the Edge of the County and Receives y^e judges from the hand of the sherriff of y^e next County and Conducts him to y^e County town attended w^th the Gentry, and there is a 264Large house in the town hired for that tyme for the judge, and all the sherriffs officers attends him and he in person; alsoe he sends the judge a present y^e first night of meate and wine and gives him one dinner. Its usual that the Judges are Entertained most of the tyme by the Bishop Major and best Gentlemen, its seldom they stay more than a weeke in a place unless they have a great deale of Buisness or that one of the judges should be sick so y^t y^e other must supply both barrs one after another. There are Lawyers that allwayes do follow the judges, some serjeant which people make use of in their Causes and joyne w^th them some of their own Country Lawyers. There are two of these assizes in a year, the other is in the winter, besides which in Each County they have quarterly sessions to w^ch all Constables of that precinct repaires, and the titheing men w^th their presentments and Complaints to punish and relieve in petty matters w^ch the Justice of the peace are judges off, and if they have a matter before them beyond their decision they bind them over to the asizes and there to prosecute them. The manner of Criminalls punishment after Condemnation, w^ch if it be for fellony or treason their Condemnation of the first is to be hanged, and they are drawn in a Cart from their prisons where they had been Confined all the tyme after they were taken, I say they are drawn in a Cart with their Coffin tyed to them and halters about their necks, there is alsoe a Divine with them that is allwayes appointed to be with them in the prison to prepare them for their death by makeing them sencible of their Crimes and all their sins, and to Confess and repent of them. These do accompany them to the place of Execution w^ch is generally through the Citty to a place appoynted for it Called Tijburn. there after they have prayed and spoken to the people the minister does Exhort them to repent and to forgive all the world, the Executioner then desires him to pardon him and so the halter is put on and he is Cast off, being hung on a Gibbet till dead, then Cut down and buried unless it be for murder; then usually his body is hung up in Chaines at a Cross high road in view of all, to deterre others. For high treason they are drawn in 265a sledge to their Execution without any Coffin, for their Condemnation when hang’d to be taken down before quite dead and to be opened. They take out their heart and say this is the heart of a traytor, and so his body is Cutt in quarters and hung up on the top of the Great gates of the Citty which are the places of their prison, some gate houses for debters, others for fellons and traytors. In Case its a woman which is a traytor then she is Condemned to be burnt. All at their Execution have Liberty to speake, and in Case they are sencible of and repent of their Crimes they do declare it and bewaile it and warne others from doing the Like, but if they are hard’nd they persist in denying it to the Last. Now as I said y^e Law Condemns all thus to be Executed, but if it be great persons they obtaine Leave of y^e king they may be beheaded, which is done on a scaffold Erected on purpose in manner of a stage, and the persons brought in Coaches with Ministers do as the former; then when they have ended their prayers and speech they Lay down their head on a block and stretch out their bodies. The Executioner strikes off their heads with an ax or sword made on purpose and if it be for treason take the head and hold it up saying this is the head of a traytor; and such Great persons, Especially those that Can pay well for it, have their heads sewed on againe and so buried. The Prison in London for great persons is the Tower where are appartments for y^t purpose. There is in all the County towns Jailes maintained at the publick Charge, besides which there are houses for Correction of Lesser faults, as Bridewell, to Correct Lazy and Idle persons and to set them to work, and alsoe stocks and pillorys to punish them for their Lesser faults. The Pilory jndeed is to punish perjur’d persons, which is a greate Crime. There is alsoe whipping, some at a Carts taile, and for some Crimes they are burnt in the hand or Cheeke as a brand of their Evil, and if found againe to transgress, y^t marke serves as a greater witness to their Condemnation. Some alsoe are Banish’d out of y^e kings dominions dureing Life and should such return they must be executed without any other tryal; under which we may 266speake of out Laweryes; a person for treason or fellony absconding into another kingdom, after a process at Law by which he is Summon’d to Come and take his tryal, and he refuses then he is outlaw’d and all his Estate forfeited to the king, and if Ever he be taken in y^e Kings dominions he is Immediately Executed w^th out any farther tryal, and its usual if such a one be known to be in a kingdom of our allies to make a Demand of him by the ambassadour, and such a state takes Care Either to deliver him up or Else to Expel him their Dominions by proclamation, that none harbour such a one but deliver up to the government.

Here is noe wracks or tortures nor noe slaves made, only such as are banish’d sometymes into our forreign plantations there to worke, we have also prisons for debtors and some of which are privilidge places, as y^e Kings Bench the Marshalsea and Fleete which persons Entring themselves prisoners there Cannot further be prosecuted, but Continue there prisoners dureing Life, and out of the term tymes hire a keeper of the prison to go allwayes with him as a jaylor; but the Chief Master must have good security to produce him Every term Else he will be Lyable to pay his debts, so its only for such as are debtors, and Indeed its a sad thing they should be so suffer’d and that there should be places of refuge for such. There is one good act to relieve persons that are Confined it may be out of Malice and spleen to keep them allwayes so, but by this act any such Can sue out his habeas Corpus and soe be brought the first day of the terme Either to a tryal or give bail and soe be Let out.

Besides this there are in most Lordships, Courts kept which are Courts Banns and was at first the only jurisdiction by Each gentleman held, all misdemeanours punished, and by them Informed up to the higher courts of Kings Bench or Chancery, and alsoe had all their own privelidges maintained amongst their tennants and neighbours, and Consisted of a Court Life also which ran in y^e same nature with their session Courts. These our Laws are Esteemed the best in y^e world, we haveing two distinct parts, one Comon Law which is singular to our nation and are managed in these sessions, assizes, Kings Bench, and Common pleas, and Exchequor, 267the other is the Civil Law which is the only sort of Law in any other Kingdom, of which the Chancery, the Arches w^ch is under the archbishop and by his appoyntm^t to the severall Judges of that Court that are all Civillians, matters of Equitty, all probats of wills, w^ch in the Arches are made and recorded. This is in a place in the Citty the Doctors Commons where is this Court of Arches and prorogative Court which Consists of Doctors, Chancelours, Proctors, Suragats w^ch do y^e offices of Councellours attorney and Solicitours at Common Law. There are registers also from this at London. All the Bishops courts are kept in each Citty, managed by Chancelours which are Lay men, and the suragats, also the Bishops deputyes, the proctors, and parolers, which summons all to it, and there are four in a year in Each County. From hence are given out Licenses for marriages, here are y^e Cannon Laws of the Church explain’d and defended, all Church officers punish’d and examin’d, here are proceeding on Information all persons that infringe the Church Rites, and formerly all that were vitious and Corrupt in their practices, even of y^e Clergy also, and receiv’d suspension or some punishm^t due to the Crime, as Excommunication, but evil men and governours corrupt and Change wholesome Laws to Evil, so of Late these Laws have been put in Execution against tender Consciences that could not Comply to some forms prescrib’d in the Litturgy of the Church of England, and they have been Excommunicated, after which they are turned over to the Lay Chancellour and so prosecuted at Common Law because the spiritual Courts and men will not pretend to use the sword of punishment, but while they have turned its Edge thus against y^e tender Consciences scrupleing the forms of worship in the Church of England, they have Left punishing the enormous Crimes of their parishoners nay of their Clergy also, to the scandal of Protestants. Indeed blessed be God that since King William and Queen Mary of happy memory Weilded the scepter, and Liberty for such descenters have been Establish’d by an act of Parliam^t, of which houses shall now speake of. Our Kingdom is governed by Laws made and Establish’d pursuant to the 268first Constitutions and Magna-Charta, from which is derived all the Charters full of priviledges to each Corporation in the Kingdom, suiteable to their Customs and well being of each; these Laws are made and are not truely authentick if not Enacted and pass’d by our three states which is King, Lords and Commons, which Can make Laws for all Cases provided they are for the good of the whole and do not tend to subvert our originall Contract grounded on our Magna Charta or ffundamental Laws of the Land, which Constitution is by all the world esteemed the best if kept on each ones Basis, a tripple foundation, and when y^e King Exerts not his prerogative beyond its Limitts to the oppressing his peoples priviledges, nor the people exorbitant and tumultuous in the standing or running up their power and priviledges to Cloud and bind up the hands of the prince. But if it goes in an Equal and just footeing, the people whose is the purse and strength will maintaine the King and his Councellours, and they will do the best offices to the King from the people, and so the King might allwayes reigne in his peoples hearts by Love as well as over them, and they yeild duty and obedience to him, and securely repose in him that should so studdy to preserve them in all their privilidges and trade, which would procure us honour and admiration to the whole world, and Continue us too greate for Enemyes to invade or molest us and so great as to have all seeke to be our allies, and those that were so would find a secure trust and faithfull friends in us, but alas! its too sadly to be bemoaned y^e best and sweetest wine turns soonest sour, some by folly faction and wickedness have endeavour’d our own ruin, and were it not for Gods providentiall Care and miraculous works we should at this day been a people Left to utter dispaire haveing only the agraveteing thoughts of our once happy Constitution to Lament its Losse the more. To go on the Parliament which in Westminster Hall has appartments, the one for y^e house of Lords and Called the Upper House, where all the Lords which are not papists and w^ch are of age do sitt in their order on benches Covered with scarlet cloth, the Bishops Likewise sitt as peers of the realme and have 269voices in all Causes, but in bloud the sanguinary Laws and decision there on its said they may sitt, but they from their order in the Church alwayes go out, but they first make their claime that they might continue, but all other of y^e Lords if absent can give their proxy to another Lord and desire him to give his voice in matters debateable in his absence, and any such Lord Chuses another that he knows to be of his own sentiments, or should give him account at any case he should differ that may have the absent Lords real Consent, which has happened that a Lord has given his own voice one way and the proxy voice another as the absent Lord shall direct, but this is seldome and this is permitted because sickness or Extraordinary buissness of their own, the Kings, or the peoples, may require his absence. Now the Lords w^ch are peeres of the realme are born Councellors to the King and are Looked on as such, its true tho’ at all tymes they may and should give the King their advice yet y^e King has power and do make Choice of a privy Councill, which consist of Lords temporall and spirituall, w^ch are Bishops, and also out of some of y^e Commons of England which are the Gentry. In this house of Lords the judges as I said before sitts but have noe vote. The Lord Chancellor or Keeper of the Seale sitts and is speaker to that house, but if he be noe peer which sometymes happens, and is at this tyme in Right Lord keeper of the Seale, then I say he has no voice in any matter and serves them only as their servant or officer to put questions to Count their voice on their dividing on a matter, to make a speech to them from y^e King, and to present anything to y^e King, and he sitts on a wool-pack to just under the throne where the king sitts when there which is seldome but to pass bills. On each side of the throne is two stooles, y^t on the Right hand is for the Prince of Wales if any is, that on the Left to the first Duke prince of the blood royal or kings brother that is heir more remote. Behind the throne is a place for the noblemens sonns minors to be, to give them opportunity to heare and instruct them in the Laws of England. In the middle of the roome is tables w^th bookes and records, and there sitts 270the secretarys of state which are two, these with some under them take the minutes of what is debated and resolved. The Lords do form Law agreable to the fundamentall Laws in which the judges advise them. They thus form a bill which being in all poynts examined, all objections answered, and being well amended and passed three tymes, being read and agreed, is Carryed down to the Lower house which Consists of the Commons of England Chosen by a precept from the Crown to all the Sherriffs of the Countys to Chuse amongst themselves two of Each Corporation or Burrough, and two for each County which are Called knights of y^e shire, to represent them in this assembly. All that are free-holders of a County has a voice to Choose.

The Corporations and Burroughs Chuse by their freemen also, but because of the peculiar Customs and priviledges in each place it makes some variation. Those that have most of voices which are Legal to Chuse, the Bailiff or major of the place or sherriffs return up to the Crown office, from whence the precept Came, the Name of such persons so Chosen to sitt in the parliament. This was an Excellent Constitution and order when kept to its order that none were Chosen but the Gentlemen of the shire or town Living there, or Else the Chiefe of their Corporation that Lived there, by w^ch meanes they were fully instructed what was for the weale and good of Each place they serv’d for, and so Could promote designes for their advantage and trade and represent their Grievances to be redress’d, they also know the strength and riches of the nation and soe Could with a more Equal hand Lay y^e taxes on all answerable to their ability; but instead of this the nation is so Corrupted that what with hopes of prefferrment at Court or being skreen’d by their priviledges from paying their debts, which is thus: dureing the sessions or forty dayes before or after, such as are parliament men Cannot be arrested or troubled for money they owe, y^e reason at first was well grounded that these persons were known to be, and in Case a troublesome person had money due and had been delay’d by some Extraordinary Cause that this troublesome person might find such a one at the parliament house might Lay 271him in prison and so hinder y^e buissness of the nation. But this is abused to a great prejudice of the subject, men run out of their Estates strive to get into the Parliament to be skreen’d from their Creditors; and how Can those that are worth Little or nothing be good disposers of the kingdom treasure or priviledges, or stand up for them, but by this there is such bribeing by debauching by drinke and giving them mony, y^t Instead of the parliament men which use to be Chosen to be the Countrys representatives and servants, to whome they allowed soe much a day for their expences in London from their homes while attending the parliament, that now those that would be parliament men spend prodigious summs of money to be Chosen. Some to serve for knights of y^e shire have spent 1000 and 1500^lb and for Corporation and Burroughs in proportion, so y^t they Come in with design to be bribed by the Court or any body y^t has any buisness before them, y^t so they may be reemburz’d and may gaine more—some place at Least they Expect and these Care Little for y^e good of y^e nation, being for the most part perfect strangers to the places for whome they serve, and consequently to all their Circumstances and so can appeare for none of them to their advantage, indeed its their own game they mainly aime and pursue, for they have in their power to form good Laws suiteable to the fundamentall and Explanatory of such with additionalls to them, tending to the enlargeing as well as secureing their priviledges. Such Laws being brought in manner of a bill is read three tymes three severall dayes, so as all the members might or should have tyme to heare debate, consider and amend it, and Every member of this house of Commons that are so chosen and have met and take the oathes required of allegiance, they Come up to the house of Lords where y^e King meetes them and desires them to Chuse a speaker for themselves out of their own number, which they do and Come and present him to the King for his approbation, w^ch done the King makes them a speech and tells them what is requisite to be done relateing to the Crown, to fforreign things if any warre or any breach of peace any injury from thence, what is necessary to be done thereon, if 272any want of money which they only Can supply, the reasons of its wants, his promise well and faithfully to dispose it, he exhorts them to rectifye disorders in practice and soe dismisses them. This speaker of theirs is the Kings officer Dureing his being speaker and has a sallery and must keep a Great table. The king gives him one thousand pound presently to fitt him in his Equipage, he always goes in Coach or a foote haveing a mace carry’d before him, he has the advantage of all bills brought into the house a Certainty for Each, he has the advantage of all the votes printed, to sell them, he sitts in a Chaire above all the rest of the House to give him advantage to see or heare any member that speakes. He is to put all Questions, to Count the voices of noes and yeas on y^e division of the house. There are many Comittees in this house as well as in the Lords House, appoynted by the whole to Inspect severall buissness, and to form bills on such buissness to be brought in to the house. If it be a matter of great Consequence there may be a Comittee of the whole house which is only thus, y^e speaker Leaves his Chaire and they resolve themselves into such a Committee and debate matters, and for that tyme Choose a Chairman for the Committee. Then the speaker reasumes the Chaire and this Chaireman of y^e Comittee reports the debate of y^t Committee to the Speaker and whole House. When there is a full house, which may be never was, there is 500 as I said before. When they have pass’d a bill thrice through the house with approbation they send it up to the Lords, and if they pass it three tymes also without amendment then it is jnGross’d, haveing been pass’d the two states, and so Lyes ready to pass the Last which is the Kings Consent. But if either the bills sent down by the Lords are amended by y^e Comons, and when brought up to the Lords againe and they Like not those amendments then they Cast out the bill; so Likewise any bill sent up by the Commons for the Lords assent in Case they make amendments which y^e Comons Like not then they Cast out their bill; but if Each other agree to the amendments or pass the bills without amendment through both houses then they are Engross’d and prepared 273for the Royal assent, the third state of our government w^ch is in this manner. The King sends to y^e house of Lords to attend him in their own house, with their Robes w^ch are Scarlet Cloth with Earmine and Rows of Earmine w^th gold galloone on Each row, the rows are Encreassed to Each dignity and here y^e bishops weare robes w^ch are scarlet also, but they have about their neck a Large Cape w^ch hangs to their waste all round of a ffurr that Lookes Like Lambskinns, it hangs Like the Capes of the Cloakes y^e shepheards weare in the open plaine downes. The King enters; or the Queen as now it is—but I saw King William pass bills in his Royal Robes of Purple Lined Earmine w^th rows of Earmine and the crown on his head which was the Crown I spake of that had great pearles on the cross and saphires Rubies and Emeraulds—the Scepter in their hand—the Usher of the Black Rod is sent to the House of Comons to attend the King in the House of Lords which they do, with their Speaker that brings up such bills w^ch are so prepared and holds them in his hand, one by one presenting them to the King, who touches them with the scepter and sayes, “je le veux bieu” and so to all of them one by one, w^ch done if there be any thing necessary to be told them, the king either speakes to them or Else orders the Lord Chancellour or Lord Keeper to acquaint them of any thing in the Kings name if its the Kings pleasure to prorogue y^m for a few dayes weekes or months. Then that putts an End to that session till the tyme prefix’d and at that tyme they must meete againe without summons, and if they are not to meete so soone, y^e king Issues out a proclaimation y^t its his pleasure y^e parliament should be prorogued so much Longer. These prorogations allwayes puts an end to all debates and all bills which are not ffinished and brought the king to pass, so that at their meeteing againe they must begin the things they would have or were about the Last tyme anew. This prorogation is in the kings power and is often done for ten dayes only to put a stop to heares and debates in the houses, and also to put an end to something that is not Lik’d by y^e government. True Indeed they may begin y^e same things at their next meeteing, but if it be for 274the great and absolute service of the nation they may, but its contrived in another method so as not openly to Confront our governours, tho’ too often we have seen it in our dayes against our Glorious truely great King William whose wisdom and Compassion for our good pass’d it by and forgave it. Now in some Cases the King may and does call the Parliament by a proclaimation to sitt before the tyme of the prorogation be Expired which takes it off. The parliament does often adjourn themselves, as every night so sometymes for a weeke, but still the parliament is Look’d on as in sitting and so buisness is not jnterrupted but goes on from day to day as they appoint it. The king may also adjourn them and the two Houses may be adjourned together, but sometymes they may adjourn seperately, for one may adjourn themselves and y^e other Continue to act within themselves. Its also in the Kings power to dissolve y^e parliament w^ch puts a finall End to all their buisness which was not ffinished and brought to the King to pass, it also disperses the members of y^e House of Commons to be noe more representatives of y^e nation till another parliament be summon’d and y^e nation make new Choices, which sometymes and in some places falls on the old members. It is in the Kings prerogative thus to Call and disolve parliaments, to declare warre or peace and making alliances, but y^e Kings ought not nor do rightly undertake any such thing but by the advice of his standing Privy Councill, which I have spoken before, and so his proclaimations allwayes runs by and with the advice of his Privy Councill he does so and so, to which he joyns y^e great Councill of the nation w^ch is his two Houses of Parliament, Lords spiritual and temporall and Commons of England, when great matters are in agitation as y^t of peace or warre, w^ch is in y^e Constitution of the government, and strengthened by this that the sinnews of warre is in the people, for without them no money is to be had; they give the taxes and subsidies for such expences, nay y^e very revenue is given by them to the King or the Queen only dureing the then prince’s Life and must be asked of them that succeed at the death of their predecessors, at the death of such that is in the throne. Formerly the Parliament of 275Course was dissolved, all offices even to a justice of peace was vacant, but our wise King William contriveing only our good not only Laid a scheme which if be followed will carry on all the Confederacys and designes against the Common Enemy of mankind, but also as farre as he could to secure our peace w^ch was by obtaining an Act of Parliam^t that y^e parliament in being when y^e King died or Else the parliament but just then dissolv’d by the King, after he dies should assemble together to take care of the government and to act under y^e next prince for six months, and till that tyme all offices should remain as they were unless the next heir should before y^t full tyme were Expired should make any Change of places. This thing made the Loss of his death Less felt immediately and our Queen Ann found a quiet Easye ascention into the throne. there was also at the same tyme an Act to settle the succession in the protestant Line, and just before our heroe resign’d his Life crown and throne he pass’d an Act to secure us more firmly against any popish successour or pretended heirs to the Crown, by an abjuration oath to be taken by all subjects, of any prince thats a papist, w^ch Confirms the Acts of Parliam^t in years past which made a papist prince unable to be king or queen of England, because a papest. So this Engages the subjects to abjure all such or any of their abbettors or pretenders. This was a great pleasure to our dying king to Leave us with all the Security possible to Enjoy what he Came to save us in, and give us and what he had fought to obtaine for us, Liberty in religion and priviledges. I pray God we do not by our provokeing sinns move his anger not only to take from us our Benefactor and deliverer but also our said valuable Blessings and priviledges, the Gospel Light and being a free nation.

I should have said when the king Comes in his robes to the Parliament and all the Lords have theirs, so if there be any Prince of Wales he is also in his and weares his Prince of Wales Cap with a branch of diamonds in forme of a plume of feathers. He sitts in the house of Lords often—he may allwayes—to hear debates and to vote and he does present them to the king any of their addresses they desire, 276which he is attended with some of the Lords which are the privy Councellors; they bring back the kings answere. The Like is observ’d by the House of Commons, if they have any address or any petition to the king they desire some of their members which are of the Privy Councill to move y^e King when the House shall attend him or her, which they knowing do it and their Speaker is their mouth. So when they would have a Conferrence with y^e House of Lords they send to them to meete them in y^e painted Chamber or Lobby of their house; so does the Lords send to y^e Commons when they would have a Conferrence with them. These things are so well adjusted and so for the Common good that if Rightly maintain’d in their proper places would be a happy Constitution. All Acts of Parliament so pass’d are printed, but y^e records of them are kept in the journalls of y^e Parliament by the Clerke of y^e Parliament. To him are added in the House of Commons also scribes or secretaryes which record and take minutes also. Now it is on these Laws that all Causes are tryed, for there are Laws made of all sorts both what relates to religious matters as well as humaine; true indeed as to points of religion for Rectifying matters as to the orders and Church government, that is debated and agreed by a Convocation, which is allwayes summoned at y^e same tyme a parliament is Chosen, which Consists of two houses, also the Bishops and deanes, and off the Inferior Clergy, and is managed by way of debates and disputation which have a moderatour and prolocutors. Here they endeavour to reforme any abuse in the Church, any deffect in their Cannon Laws, and to Explaine those Laws and if they should find such, as in our religion not agreable to y^e word of God, they form it into a bill or petition which is presented the King in way of an address, he being owned as head and supreame under Christ over these Churches and realmes. So this is to request his Care of it which y^e King does by Laying it before y^e Houses of Parliament who Enacts Laws to secure our religion, and reforme evil both in Doctrine and practise by their Acts Duely pass’d. As I said before the arch-Bishop’s Chiefe of this convocation house.

277 Next I will proceed to give some short account of tryalls on our Laws which is thus. Every free man of England being oppress’d Comes in due form of Law to demand his right, which being heard by the judges and a jury of his own fellow subjects—his Country men—they give their verdict in the matter as they thinke most just according to the statutes and Laws, and so the right between man and man which does vary from y^e different Customs of Each County or precinct. This jury are twelve men all sworne on the Bible solemnly to do Justice, not out of feare, fraud or malice, favour or affection to jnjure any man, and y^e first man is their foreman and speakes for the rest, Either acquit or Condemns the person, w^ch is in Life or Death, so determining other Causes the same manner, and these twelve men must all be agreed in their verdict, which is after they have heard all Can be witness’d or alleadged on all sides, w^ch verdict the Judges also must pronounce on y^e Causes as they have brought it in. Now those suites of Law as well as Causes of Life and death are brought in by bill to y^e Grand-jury, which are twenty four and these all of the best Gentry and many of them justices of peace, they examine the matter and if they find it (that is by any Act of Parliament) is pleadable or to be enquired into, they draw it up into an jndictm^t and so its sent into the Court to be tryed by the Petty Jury, after whose Verdict and the Judges pronouncing it, the matter must be at an End and taken out of that Court. Sometymes indeed if the Subject is oppress’d he may appeale to another Court y^ts higher, as from the sessions to the assizes, thence to the Kings Bench, thence to y^e Chancery, or the Parliament House which when a matter has there been Debated and decided there Can be noe more done in it because they are the makers of the Laws so best able to Interpret. Sometymes in these other Courts a Jury brings in a matter speciall, that is, Leaves it on the Judges to determine being a matter of Law, then y^e Judges must Consult and do it all of them together.

All persons are tryed by those of their own ranke a Commoner of England is tryed by a Jury of Commoners in all Cases and of Life and death, a peer of England is tryed 278by his Peers, and in case it is not the tyme of y^e Parliament sitting, then by a bill of oyer and terminer issued out, there is 12 Peers are jmpannell’d as a jury. But I must mention one thing as to the petty Juryes of Commoners, a person which is tryed for his Life may Challenge some of those w^ch are brought to be sworne for his Jury, that is except against them to such a number without giving reason, but if he exceeds that number he must give reason for such exception, either to be a man he had injured or one w^ch had former malice or one related to y^e persons who Either is dead or injured; for our Laws Condemn to Death murther, fellony, treasons. By this order you see its Justice and Care. Then in matters of Life and Death the witness for the King are sworne, but y^e witness for the prisoners are not sworne but only Examined to declare the truth. But to returne to the tryals of a peer which by such a jury is tryed, in Case the house of Lords y^e parliament is sitting, then they prepare Westminster hall for the tryal, the House of Comons manage the Evidence and prosecute them, and the House of Lords are the Judges and Jury in this manner if it be for Life or death, w^ch is grounded on a statute either against murther, treason or fellony, and so y^e arraignment is read and y^e Councill for both sides. Y^e house of Commons produces their Evidence and witness and the King Constitutes a Lord High Steward for that day or in case the tryal be long he must be Continued till the tryall finishes. He beares a white staff as badge of his great office which Indeed is y^e greatest officer in England and for the tyme can act for the King, so above him. He is usually the person that is Lord Chancellor if he be a peer which allwayes is. There he sitts as Judge to whome the other peeres of the whole House of Lords are Joyn’d and after a full Examination on both sides, and the Criminall haveing had full Leave to Cleer himself, then the Lord High Steward askes y^e Lords one by one beginning with the puny Lord, so to the highest “in honour my Lord such a one do you thinke my Lord that the prisoner at the Barre is guilty or not Guilty?”—to which Each Lord stands up and answeres for himself Either, so as he Judges, “guilty upon 279my honour,” or Else “not guilty upon my honour” and so it goes from one to all, in this manner the Lord High Steward marks down to Each Lords name his answere, and at the Last reckons them up so many Guiltyes, so many not Guiltyes, then he adds his own thoughts to the side he thinks best, but usualy he is so Crafty as to add to the side of the Majority, which being done he pronounces the verdict as y^e majority said, Either Guilty or not. Now this verdict the Lords give thus on their honour is Equivalent to the oath the Commoners take that serve in Juryes, for y^e peeres take no oath in these matters, otherwise than so. Now in Case y^e matter against a peer be only a Law matter of nuise-prise, then the matter being debated and the answere by y^e Lord made in his deffence read, and Councell pleading, then y^e Lord High Steward askes Each Lord in same order as before, but in this forme “in y^e matter which has been debated before y^r Lord —— Concerning the Lord at the Barre w^th his deffence whether his deffence be sufficient to Cleer him or not what sayes y^r Lordships Content or not content on y^r honour?” they all answer as they are affected or understand y^e matter “content,” or else “not content” which are fixed to each name and so reckon’d up, and y^e majority Carry’s it Either to quitt or not to quitt him, to which the Lord High Steward adds his as he pleases also, after which they shew the High Steward a respect as a king. He is serv’d on the knee and drinkes some wine and when that is done he breakes his white staff and so pulls off his hatt. When he was the High Steward he had all the maces Carry’d before him all y^e officers attending. But in case there be no Chancellour, only a Lord Keeper as at present is, which is no peer of y^e realme then he has no vote with y^e Lords only Count up y^e votes and declares them w^ch has the Majority, without the addition of his, haveing none, and he is only substituted the deputy steward for the day and so sitts, but on a wool sack as he does in the House of Lords and is only their speaker and officer and must aske Leave for himself and the Judges to put on their Caps before they might do it, now the High Steward sitts in the 280throne of justice under a Cannopy but I see this Lord Keeper only sate on a wool sack at the foote of the throne which stood Empty behind him. He had noe Compliment paid him more than at another tyme, being only as the Speaker to y^e House of Lords and so their officer.

There are severall great officers of y^e Court as Lord Treasurer which takes account of all the kings revenues—this sometymes is in Commision between 3 or more. There is also the High Admirall of England that has the Command of all the shipps and stores. This sometymes is in Comisions also of 3 or more under whome are y^e Vice Admirall and Rear Admirall, also und^r the Treasurer are severall officers. There is also two principal Secretaryes of State which write all things, the Kings Lett^rs &c, and relateing to the government, maintain all Inteligences in y^e kingdom and abroad.

There is also a Master of the Generall Post Office that has all the under masters and officers of y^e posts both for forreign Letters and inland Lett^rs.

There are also governours as Lord Lieutenant of Jreland—that sometymes is held in Commission. There is also Lords Justices there, all which have their Salleryes ariseing out of the same kingdom. There is also to all our forreign plantations govern^rs sent from England and their salleryes arise from the plantation. The Kings revenues arise from y^e Customs of goods exported and jmported, from the Excise on all Liquors that are made in England and sold, besides which there is a Considerable revenue from Lands belonging to y^e Crown, tho’ that is much Lessen’d by the severall donations of our kings for many yeares to their favourites. Out of those revenues all y^e Civil List is maintain’d, which is y^e Judges salleries, the great officers, the household of y^e king. There is another great revenue in y^e Post Office, besides at all Extraordinary occasions of the marriage of any of our princess’s their portion, or any warre, then the Parliament raises taxes on the nation on Land or trade, additional Customs, and also on the Excise, Encreasing that under the Civil List is the Expences of the Court, the guards, and also the ambassadors which are sent by the 281king into forreign kingdoms to treate matters for Each others good: their Expences while there are allowed and so of all Envoyes or Consulls w^ch are lesser Embassadours. There is also the maintaining the navy, building shipps, the wood of which Indeed is out of the King’s fforest.

There remaines now only in what manner the kings or queenes of England give publick audience to fforreigne ambassadours Either when they Come in their first Entrance or at the tyme of their takeing Leave; but first I may give account of our Bishops and Gentry. There is 26 Bishopricks with the two Archbishops Canterbury and york and there are as many Cittyes and Cathedralls which in my travells have described. All these Bishopricks are held of the Crown and are Given by the king, to whome is due the first fruites which is one yeares income of the Bishopricks. They are held for Life, true jndeed they admit of being removed from one Bishoprick to another for advancem^t, nay they may forfeit their Bishoprick by not being qualify’d, if they will not sweare to be faithfull to y^e government and so they may be suspended, as in y^e Case of severall in the last revolution would not sweare to King William and Queen Mary and so now refuse also to sweare to her present Majesty Queen Ann. These Bishops are only Barrons in themselves, their wives have noe honnour thereby nor their Children; but for all peeres of England theirs is hereditary from father to son and their Ladies partake of it, nay y^e honour descends on a daughter in default of male jssue. The peere must first be made Barrons by which they hold all their priviledges—Barrons of England—which is from y^e king by patent; all his Children are Called y^e hon^bl adding the Christian name to their sirname, and this remaines to daughters when marry’d. By this patent or another of y^e same they may be Created viscount, Earles, Marquesses, dukes, and if they are dukes their patent Expresses all the four other titles. Alsoe viscounts Children are the same w^th Barrons; and Earle’s, marquess, and duke’s are Called, the daughters Lady, by their Christian names, before and after marriage, unless they marry a Barron then they Lose y^t name and are Called a Barroness and so Loses their place. 282The Eldest son of an Earle is Called Lord by his fathers title of Barron, the Eldest son of a Marquiss is Called Earle, by the title of his fathers Earledome, and all marquiss’s younger sons are Called Lord by their Christian name added to their sirname. So the same of dukes Children, the Eldest son is Called Marquiss. Now if any dowager to a Lord marry a Private Gentleman she in Law is sullied and has Lost her peeress, so if a Dutchess or Marquess or Countess or viscountess marry a Barron or Either of the degrees which was below her, she Looses it and is only Called as the Lady of the present peer She has marry’d now. Though these titles be given the noblemens sons and Daughters its not that they are really soe, for in our Law they are only Called and Esteemed in the first ranke of Gentlemen, and so take place before all Gentlemen w^tsoever. The Lower titles made by patents by y^e king is Barronets, and is differenc’d only from a Knight by takeing place of all knights and that it is hereditary and goes from father to son; a Knight only is for his own Life and the king makes them thus: any Gentleman that is to be made a knight kneeles down and y^e king draws his sword asking him his Christian name, Layes the sword on his head and shoulder, and bids him rise up sir such a one as for Example S^r James Bateman our Last Sherriff &c. These severall titles and patents pays great fees to the severall officers according to the ranke, a Duke cost £1000—, so in proportion. Y^e same manner the Knights of the Garter are made as other knights nevertheless it may be to those w^ch were dukes before. Their jnstallment is at Windsor Castle, in this manner: the herraulds which I have mentioned several tymes before as a part and management of all the Cerimony, and also the persons that studdy all matters of honours and are the Recorders of all the titles in England, and all their Coates of armour, and knows and keepes Each in their ranke at all Cerimonyes, and gives out their armes for Eschuteons at Every bodyes funeralls; they have an office just by D^r Commons by S^t Pauls Cathedrall. There is one Principal king at armes and 3 if not more other king at armes and other under herraulds and Sergeants, which all 283weare Coates with the kings armes all aboute it; these as I say officiates at the jnstalling for they record it and add the blew garter about such a Lords atchievement. Y^e Cerimony I have in part described together with y^e account of Windsor.

Maulbery is in view at some distance from y^e adjacent hills and Lookes very fine, with a good river that turns many mills. Its buildings are good and Compact, one very Large streete where stands the market place and town hall, and at Each end the two Churches, its of a great Length jncludeing the two parishes, and the town stands itself on a high hill. Beyond one of the Churches is the Duke of Sommersets house, has been a greate Rambling building but now most pulled down and newly building, they were painting it, good appartments for what is done but none furnish’d, and its but one Wing and is built with drawing dineing roomes and bed Chambers with Closets and dressing-roomes and two StairCases and some roomes above, which is to have another such a wing on the other side and Joyn’d with a Greate hall.

The only Curious thing is out of y^e bowling green. You go many stepps down into a Grass-walke with quick sett hedges cut Low, this Leads to the foote of the mount, and that you ascend from y^e Left hand by an Easye ascent bounded by such quick sett hedges Cut Low, and soe you rise by degrees in 4 rounds bounded by the Low Cutt hedge, and on the top is with same hedge Cut in works, and from thence you have a prospect of y^e town and Country round and two parishes two mile off in view, and the Low Grounds are watered with ditches, and this mount is Encompass’d about with such a Cannal which Emptys itself into a ffish pond, then it Empts itself into the river. There is a house built over the ffish pond to keep the ffish in. At the ffoote of the mount as I began out of a Green walke on the Left hand to ascend it, so on the Right hand Leads to another such a walke quite round by y^e Cannall to the other side of y^e bowling-green. In the midst of y^e top of the mount was a house built and pond but thats fallen down. Halfe way down is a seate opposite to y^e dwelling house which is 284Brick’d. Maulbery is one of the towns in Wiltshire y^e quarter sessions is kept in, its 8 mile to Hungerford over Savernack Forrest where is many deer. Ffrom Hungerford to Newbury in Barkshire 7 mile all very deep way, 15 mile thence to Reading in Barkshire flatt way, but y^e vale is heavy sand for 3 or 4 mile. Reading is the shire town, its pretty Large and accomodated for travellers being a great Road to Gloucester and y^e West Country, but it is very dear.

From London to Rusbery 18 mile by Stanes—pretty house and gardens in sight of Windsor in Buckinghamshire—thence Uxbridge 7 mile, pretty good way, thence Amersham 9 mile all in the Alesbury road, thence Barkminstead 6 Long miles, steep hills into Hartfordshire, a good market town, good jnns, thence Dunstable 7 or 9 Long miles steep hills, thence Arsly in Bedfordshire 10 mile, which I Entred at Astick 2 mile from Arlsy, 2 good old houses of the Edwards and Browns, but this was base way, narrow, and Lanes Rooty and Long. Thence Bedford town 9 miles good way, a village in a mile or two distance, Hanlow, Clifton Sheford Checkston and Bedford. Y^e great road Comes in good way, thence Turvoy 5 mile belonging to the Earle of Peterborough where he was.

They make much bonelace in these towns. In the Church are fine tombs and monuments of that familly, the first with two Ladyes on Each side, he higher, one in a widdows dress all marble finely Gilt and painted on a bed, and Rowles of Matt very naturall at their head and feete. There was another and the Lady dyed in Childbed the Child by her Costly Carved and Gilt and 4 beadmen at the feete (he allowed for four old mens maintenance), by it another and his Lady all rich marble Gilt and painted.

Here I Enter Buckinghamshire againe over the Bridge, so to Northampton 10 mile over a pretty good road, and Entred the shire within 4 mile of the town.

I describe nothing more of Northampton, but the Church was finish’d, the Entrance with a breast wall and paved and stepps within round 3 sides of the Church, which was begun wⁿ I was there before. So I proceeded on to Litchfield 285very good way as Exactly straight as a Line, the Whatling Streete way, but it was deep heavy ground as in all these Rich Countrys. I passed between two noble seates, Homby on the Right hand on the side of a hill in woods, stone buildings with towers almost Like a Castle, old built, the rows of trees Exact on Each side and avenues, which is Earle of Ffevershams. The other on the left hand Lay Low within a thicket of wood on all sides but the front, where it appear’d Like a Princes Court of Brick and Stone, very fine, Lord Sunderlands, with a Large Parke walled in of a good Extent. Thus I went to a Bridge not very Large of stone but it is the Boundary of three Countys.

I pass’d from Northampton into Leicestershire with Warwickshire on my Left hand, and so went to a Rich Land, here it Lookes of a Redder Earth.

I Came to Cross wayes where was a Latterworth hand poynting 4 wayes to Coventry, Leicester, London, and Litchfield, and some thing farther to High Crosse which is Esteemed y^e middle of England, where the two great Roads meete that divides the Kingdom in the Saxons tyme in 4 parts, the Whatling Streete on which still I Continued, and the Ffosse way; thus to a Little place Called Smockington, fitted for jnns, on a Road, very Comodious. Here I Lay in Warwickshire 10 mile, thence 6 mile to Anderton and Talmouth 7, where I Enter Staffordshire, soe Litchfield 6 mile, thence Woolsly Eight, from thence to Budsworth, Lord Pagets in a ffine Parke, Large Coale mines about it. The house is old but the front very regular, 3 Juttings out, Large Compass windows, a good Little parlour, out of the hall another Large one with drawing roome and bed Chamber and good back staires and Entrys, Large Light fit for attendance. then you go up and Enter a dineing roome, drawing roome and Chamber, a Long gallery that is the Length of the house and broad, and which adds to its greatness. The End opens doores on a terrass out in the garden of same breadth and Length up to an orchard or wilderness which Lookes very nobly. Here at Each End is two good Chambers of state, Lofty, with anty Chambers and for servants and 286back staires. There are many very good roomes of a second rate w^ch if well ffurnish’d would Look well. The Leads are a greate many stepps up on the top, a Large Cupilow of windows, and y^e walls round y^e Leads are so high a person of a middle stature Cannot Look over them scarce when on tiptoe, which is a Greate Lessening of its beauty w^ch would give a Large prospect round of the Country of 10 or 12 miles off. There is an addition of new wall on the battlements w^ch is visible so its Likely it was from some accident from y^e Leads Enduced y^e walls being built higher. This Lord has a greate Command and Royalty in the County, the Kank forrest of 20 mile is his, most of y^e gentlemen in the County pay him Chiefe Rent and some hold Right in some of their Land by waiteing on him on some solemn feast dayes in the yeare, and bring up his dinner and waite on him as he Eates, if then in the Country. But these things are better wav’d then sought and is not done few tymes in an age to keep up the Custom.

Ffrom Woolsly after an 8 weekes stay I went to Wolverhampton 11 long mile, then to Church-hill neare Sturbridge 9 or 10 mile farther, by the many Glasshouses where they Blow Broad Glass, but they were not at work on that sort when I was there. At Church-hill was at a farmer Like a Gentleman’s, a new pretty house of brick, but wanted ffurniture and Cleaneing and good order, but a hearty M^r and M^rs. The hill is pretty high and gives a great view of the Country which most belongs to M^r Foley-Tom of 10,000^£—Large Comonage, there he has a Little Lodge, new brick; his own house is 6 or 10 mile thence all within his own grounds, and has great jron works and mines, this is within two mile of Kederminster, as farre on the other side to Sturbridge. Thence I went to Worcester town a sandy way, and here are in some places quicksands. This is a 10 Long mile to Worcester but pretty flatt way for the most part, thence to Newhouse 12 or 14, the basest way for hills, stony narrow hollow wayes very difficult to pass.

I went from Newhouse to Stoake four miles, M^r Foley’s 287the speaker’s son has a very fine pile of building, the wing to Herreford being now up in the Shell, which is all for state, great parlour, drawing roome, and bed Chambers, with their appendixes and backstaires, and a great staircase with Chambers over for state. This is Entred into out of the Greate hall, the middle of the house raiseing many stepps out of the Court, the Entrance to which on Each side has buildings uniform for Coach house stables, dairy out houses. The wing to the garden side is finish’d, being their appartment, a pretty staircase that two Easily go up, light from the Skye, jron railes and barristers, this from an arch jsle below which goes to the kitchen, and hath a doore into this front Court and into the gate backward, tho’ not visible on the garden side by y^e disguise of painting. From this you ascend these staires to the dineing roome which is Even to the great hall and must Enter from it when ffinish’d. Out of this on the Right hand was M^r Paul Folie’s the father’s studdy, long and Large, with back staires and a servants roome. On the Left hand is a drawing roome, beyond his Ladys bed Chamber, Closet and Servants roome, and next it are these staires of jron Railes that goes up to the next stage, which is over this same wing and is the appartment of the young M^r Folie and his Lady which now is the heir and in possession.

There is their Chamber, her fine Closet, a servants roome and a Large studdy for him; there is also two Large Chambers for strangers which takes the whole wing over the dineing roome and studdy. There is also a Little roome at the end for strangers opposite to M^r folie’s roome which Lookes to the front. This dineing roome is what they Eate in allwayes—is well wanscoated. There is a fountaine bason just faceing y^e balcony doore that Leads to a terrass paved with black and white marble and jron palisadoes; it has a long space and broad for walking and two Enclosed on Each side by same jron work a step up or two these doores from y^e Ladies Closet and the Studdy, out on them in the middle goes the staires two wayes, all jron work, and meete halfe way and Joyne in y^e next descent on Gravel, which is in a halfe moon and so design’d 288to be Left in a Low place with a Cascade beneath, and the Gravell walke and grass walks to go by it and beyond it in many rows of trees. The walled Gardens and walks one below another. This terrass gives a vast prospect of the Country, it being scituated on the ascent of a hill. Many rows of trees in Meadows below it adds to its beauty being all within his own Ground, he has a Great Estate and a Great parke up above it with Great woods. The adornment of the Rooffe is flower potts and ffigures Globes and Scallop shells, it will be noble Compleate buildings and deserves 10000^£ a yeare to Live Like it.

The offices are all below and Even with the first Entrance of the ffront, what is ffinished is neate good wanscoate and tapistry, there is two or three damaske beds and one velvet one what they had before, so noe new ffurniture but y^e best wing noe doubt will be finely finish’d and furnish’d. The prospect is Large and jndeed to view, at Least in the summer and in Drye tyme, Herrifordshire is Like a fruitfull Garden. Near Richards Castle is the Bone well a fountain alway full of ffish and ffroggs bones tho’ often Cleared of them yet still renewed.

Ffrom Newhouse I Came over Maubern Hills which are Like the Alps and have had much wet, the roads deep and difficult, to upton in Worcester 10 mile, where I pass the severn on a stone bridge—here it is not broad. Thence Pursha 5 mile, thence Esham 4 and Weston 4, in Glocestershire to my Cos’n Ffiennes, thence to Morton Hindmost up a vast stony high hazardous hill of neare two mile Long ascending all the way from Weston—this is in sight of Cambden—so to Morton, 6 miles down as steep a stony hill 2 mile before I Came to my aunts. Thence to Broughton in Oxfordshire passing by 4 shires stone—Warwick, Worcester, Glocester and Oxfordshire, and so by Kingston; thence to oxford 18, Abbington where is a fine town Hall for the Judges, two barrs and all seates aboute set on stone pillars, the staires to the top is about 100, y^e Leads fine and gives a Large prospect all about. There is halfe way the staires, a place to go in and in Gallerys round Company may stand to heare Causes all 289above the Judges heads—this is Buckinghamshire. Then to Newbery by Market Hillsly its 16 mile, which town has been famous for whipps and presents a King or Queen when they pass through it with one of great price and also w^th a purse of Gold. From thence to Way hill through Lanes and woods 14 mile, this is in Hampshire, thence to Newtontony in Wiltshire 6 mile.

Some account of Epsome in Surrey about ten miles from London. Its on Clay and Gravel, the waters are from Alum. The well is Large without Bason or Pavement, on the bottom it is Covered over with timber and is so darke you Can scarce Look down into it for which Cause I do dislike it. Its not a quick spring and very often is dranke drye, and to make up the defficiency the people do often carry water from Common wells to fill this in a morning; this they have been found out in which makes the water weake and of Little opperation unless you Can have it first from the well before they Can have put in any other. The usual way of drinking them is by turning them with a Little milk. There is a walk of trees by it, but not very pleasant, there is a house built in which the well is and that is paved with brick to walke in in the wet weather, and where people have Carrawayes sweetemeates and tea &c, but it Look’d so dark and unpleasant more Like a Dungeon, y^t I would not Chuse to drinke it there, and most people drink it at home. There are severall good Buildings in Epsome for Lodgings and good Gardens behind them for walking. There is a good house of the L^d Bartlets in a parke at the End of the town Looks very well. The Greatest pleasure of Emson is Either Banstead Downs where is good aire and good rideing for Coaches and horses, with a pleasant view of y^e Country, or Else Box Hill which is 6 or 7 miles off and is the Continuation of the Ridge of hills I mentiond by Maidstone; its a Greate height and shows you a vast precipice down on the farther side, and such a vast vale full of woods Enclosures and Little towns. There is a very good river that runs by a Little town Called Darken just at the foote of this hill, very famous for good troutts and great store of ffish. On this hill the top is 290Cover’d with box whence its name proceeds, and there is other wood but its all Cutt in Long private walks very shady and pleasant, and this is a great diversion to the Company and would be more ffrequented if nearer Epsom town.

About 4 miles off is S^r Robert Howards house which I went to see, its a Square building, the yards and offices very Convenient about it, and severall Gardens walled in. All the windows are sashes and Large squares of glass; I observ’d they are double sashes to make y^e house the warmer, for it Stands pretty bleake. Its a brick building. You Enter a hall which opens to the Garden, thence to two parlours, drawing-roomes and good staires, there are abundance of Pictures, above is a Dineing roome and drawing roome with very good tapistry-hangings of Long standing. There is severall bed Chambers well ffurnish’d, good damaske beds and hangings and window Curtaines of the same, and so neatly kept ffolded up in Clean sheets pinn’d about the beds and hangings. There are severall other good beds and ffurniture, one roome all y^e bed and hangings are of a fine damaske made of worsted, it Lookes pretty and with a Gloss Like Camlett, of a Light Ash Coullour. There are good pictures of the family, S^r Robert’s Son and Lady, which was a Daughter of the Newport house, with her Children in a very Large Picture. There is fine adornements of Glass on the Chimney and fine marble Chimney pieces, some Closets with Inlaid floores, its all very neate and fine with the several Courts at the Entrance—this I thinke was all remarkable at Epsome which is 14 mile to London.

Another Journey to Broughton in Oxfordshire, my brother’s, and now my nephew’s house, the Lord Say and Seale. I went by Hartfordshire and Bedford from London to Wane 20 mile, thence to Hitching 14 miles, most in Lanes and deep Land, and in the winter bad Roads, but very good Land—good Corn—the wheate Look’d well but Grass and Summer Corn wanted rain, being a drye Spring. Thence to Bedford town 12 mile more, these miles are Longer than those about London and much in Lanes and woods.

291 Bedford town is an old Building, its wash’d by the river Ouse which Comes from Buckingham and is here Broader than in most places till it reaches Yorke; its stored with very good ffish and those which have Gardens on its brinke keepes sort of trunck or what they Call them. Its a Receptacle of wood of a pretty size full of holes to Let the water in and out, here they keep the ffish they Catch as pike, perch, tench &c, so they have it readye for their use, this is of mighty advantage Especially for the Publick houses—you see the ffish taken out ffresh for supper or dinner. The river runns twineing about and runns into severall notches of Ground w^ch is sett full of willows, and many Little boates Chained to the sides belonging to y^e people of the town for their diversion. It runns by a Ground which is made into a fine bowling-green, its upon a hill and a pretty ascent from the river that is besett with willows all round beneath; y^e bowling green is well kept with Seates and summer houses in it for the use of the town and Country Gentlemen of which many resort to it Especially the market dayes. At the Entrance of the town you pass over y^e river on a bridge which has a gate on it and some houses—this river beares barges. These truncks or Baskets which keepes the ffish are ffastned by Chaines to the sides of the Banks in each mans Garden. There is nothing worth notice in the town, severall streetes small and old, the middle streete which runns from y^e Bridge is pretty broad, wherein stands y^e market place and house which is on severall stone pillars and raill’d in. There is above it roomes which were design’d for the session and publick Buissness of the town by the Lord Russell that built it, but his untimely death, being beheaded, put a stop to its ffinishing. They now put it to noe use but spinning haveing begun to set up the woollen worke, but its Just in its Infancy. Over this is the top which is flatt rooff’d Leaded and railed in, from thence you see the whole town and Country round.

There is a pretty many Gentry about y^e Country neare neighbours, and many Live in the town tho’ in such old houses. From thence I went to Asply 8 mile where the 292Earth turns wood into stone and had a piece of it; it seemes its only one sort of wood the Aldertree which turns so, and Lay or drive a paile or Stake into the ground there in seven yeares its petrify’d into stone, from thence to Onborn w^ch is 3 mile more.

Here is the Duke of Bedfords house which I had seen before with the fine Gardens and parke, so proceeded on to Dunstable 9 miles ffarther where I staid and dined with my kinswoman my aunt Woolsley’s Daughter marry’d to a D^r of physick D^r Marsh, and from thence I went to Laighton Buserd and thence to Whinslow about 12 mile—this is in Buckinghamshire—thence to Broughton in Oxfordshire 17 mile, and staid a weeke and then returned through oxfford Citty 18 mile, and so to London 48 mile more.

A FURTHER DESCRIPTION OF EPSOME HAMPTON COURT AND WINDSOR

Epsom is 15 miles from London, there are great curiosityes in cut hedges and trees almost before all doores. They have trees in rows which they cut up smooth and about 3 or 4 yards up, they Lay frames of wood in manner of a pent house, so plat the branches on it and cuts it smooth, they leave the stem of the tree to run up and then cut it clear to the top w^ch they cut in round heads. There are severall good houses in or about Epsham—S^r Rob^t Howard’s w^ch I have described, M^r Wessell’s now M^r Scawen’s. There is Lord Baltimores in Woodcut Green Encompass’d w^th a wall at the Entrance—a breast wall with pallisadoes. Large courts one within the other and a back way to y^e stables where is a pretty horse pond. The house is old but Low, tho’ Large,—run over much ground. In ffront 6 windows and in the top just in the middle 12 Chimneys in a row, being 3 and 3 below Joyning back to back and 3 and 3 above; the others Looke into a Court w^ch is built round. As I drove by the side saw broad Chimneys on the End, and at due distance on the side on both Ends 293y^e sides of a Court, w^ch is terminated in a building on w^ch is a Lead w^th railes and Barristers.

That house which is now Lord Guilfords at another side of Epsham, Lookes nobly in a fine parke pailed round. Severall rows of trees in the front of all sorts—Lofty, and some cut Piramidy, some suger-Loafe or rather Like a mushrom-top. The front has 6 Large windows and the doore w^ch is glass, as many on the next story. You Enter by a Large Court w^ch is on y^e Left side—Stable court; to the right into y^e Gardens, fore right you Enter a broad tarass railed in and Paved with stone, you enter a noble Lofty hall, plaine but neate, painted white. On y^e right is a Little parlour, the lesser hall hung w^th armes, a butler’s office, with bedchambers and Closets, thence goes y^e Kitchen, schullery, bakeing room and Laundry into a Court of all y^e offices and the stable yard. Out of y^e Little parlour goes into a pretty Chappel which has a balcony closet looking into it for the Lord and Lady.

The Left hand of y^e hall Led into a great parlour w^ch runnes to the End of the house, and makes the ffront, and short again into another great parlour or dineing roome which makes y^e End ffront of the house; this also opens into y^e staircase, it Leads on to a drawing roome, Closet, bed Chamber, two dressing roomes, w^ch with y^e great staircase makes up y^e ffront backward and the other End ffront, w^ch Lookes into y^e stable yard and a garden railed in w^th a Large pond or Cannall. The back ffront goes out into a garden or Court w^th Gravel walks round, and a Crosse w^ch cuts it into 4 grassplotts where are Brass statues, and Leads out through fine jron Carved gates as at the ffront out into y^e highway. The right End ffront of y^e house is into y^e Garden. Out of both of y^e great parlours and drawing roome two Entrances at an Equal distance upon gravell walks. This garden is gravell’d round. Y^e two middle walks run up to a double mount which cast the garden into 3 Long grass walks w^ch also are very broad, w^th 3 flower potts. There are two degrees of stepps to Each of these Gravell walks, the first lands on a Gravell that turns in a 3 side square w^ch shapes y^e upper mount. The Long 294gravell walke to y^e right hand runns aCrosse the mount to a thicket that Enters y^e Grove and is Lost. The other to the Left runns up the whole Length of y^e grove up to white gates and open views into y^e parke. The two Ends of the Little square gravel walke round the first mount terminates on the right in same thicket or Grove, and has only for show a Carved frame as a gate, w^th wood carv’d Like Cage work painted white, with an arch Entrance in the middle for form sake, to make it Look uniforme to the Like on y^e Left, w^ch Leads to a walk as Long as the Gravell up to the wall, and is directly arbour. Like high trees, Cut up to the top and with heads which close in an arch—in the middle is Long white seates. There are two or three Lesser walks w^ch run across it to y^e right into the Grove and Lost in the maze; to the Left to another Long walk w^ch Leads to a Grotto and runs parralel w^th y^e gravel walke to the top. You Enter a space paved and open arch’d round in seates like a Court, and thence you Enter the Grotto, an arch Entirely dark but at the Entrance it is so Large as 6 arched seates, and between carv’d stone very fine of all sorts of flowers, ffigures, ffruites; y^e Pillars or Peers pretty broad. this ran up to a sumerhouse at the End, w^ch is grown over with greens cut smooth—windows all round. Below this is a broad green walke w^ch begins at the first Garden and so continues round w^th y^e wall quite to that broad Gravel walke, and is continued by y^e wall quite Encompassing y^e maze, in w^ch are some slaunt cut wayes, and it terminates in the other side of the first Garden just by a garden railed in in which is a Large pond, square in nature of a cannall, the bank green Cut fine, and borders for flowers and greens, and a Breast wall to the first Garden, on w^ch are flower potts. On the upper mount—all the grass and bank Even cut—Stands 4 flower potts painted blew—Some red on y^e 3 divisions—y^e gravell Cut out as on the Margin.

Ffrom the Hall you go to y^e staircase, there is also a doore out of the second parlour. This is noble and Lofty all plain wanscoate, only y^e halfe paces inlaid. The first is a window the whole height, 13 Large pannells in Length, 5 in breadth, which Lookes into one of the Courts where 295the pond is and stable yard. The next half pace Leads you on y^e Left hand to the private appartment that is not so Lofty, over y^e Least hall to an anty roome, thence a dineing roome, soe drawing roome 5 bed Chambers and Closetts. The Last Closett goes into a balcony w^ch runs aCross y^e middle of said Lofty window, and Looks into the staircase. Out of y^e Eating or dineing roome goes a Closett for y^e Ladyes into y^e Chappell w^th very good back staires up to y^e top roomes. Y^e great staires continues up to the Gallery and turns in a long halfe pace, w^ch Enters it at two doores in Equal distances. Its a Lofty, Large as well as Long roome, noe painting or frettwork. At Each End are severall handsome bedChambers and Closetts but none ffurnish’d, but y^e private appartments has pladd Chamlet damaske neatly made up, not new, Glass sconces, and over the Chimney, looking glasses in frames. The parke is fine but not stock’d, w^ch when it is and house ffurnish’d will be a noble seate.

There is another house of M^r Ruths who married Lady Dennagall is new and neate. The Entrance is a space the breadth of y^e Court and ffront, rail’d in and opening in y^e middle w^th sort of wicket, two such at Each End w^th heavye Latches to pull up, and the gate swings both wayes. There is a brick wall w^th peers and breast high, and jron pallisadoes of a good breadth Each side the gate, w^ch is Carv’d jron work w^th a Deer on the top of a Cypher, and an oaken tree Cut a top; the two first peers are w^th Great flower potts, those on y^e Peeres Each side y^e jron works Lesser flower potts. Beyond are the gates into the coach yard, w^ch with the Stables is a neate Pile of Buildings by it self. Just on y^e other side is such a building the kitchen and offices and little Laundry Court, and here is the back Entrance through a Long brick Entry open on one side, but a wall to y^e Court side and house, and Enters into a passage that Leads to a little hall brick’t, w^th roomes for y^e buttler and a batheing roome. By it is a Large hall paved w^th stone and thence is one way into the garden. Under the staires and balcony that descends from y^e dineing roome in y^e first passage are staires w^ch 296brings to a space that turns up to the Great staires and roomes.

The ffront Entrance is into a handsome Court, one Large paved walke in the middle between Grass, the borders round of flowers, y^e wall w^th trees. You ascend some stepps to a broad terrass paved and with a breast wall sett w^th flower potts. This is the breadth of the house and at Each End two Large white seates w^th arches over y^e head. You Enter a step or two to this space w^ch Leads to y^e staires on y^e Left to a little parlour wanscoted, white in veines and gold mouldings, a neat Booffett ffurnish’d with Glasses and china for the table, a Cistern below into which the water turn’d from a Cock, and a hole at bottom to Let it out at pleasure. W^th in this roome was a Large Closet or musick roome, on the other side was a dineing room w^th a balcony door w^ch has staires to y^e garden in a round with half paces and jron railes. Thence is a drawing roome, beyond that a Closet that comes out into a little passage to the staircase, w^ch is Large and makes the fourth part of the house; they are wanscoate varnish’d and the Lower step or two Larger, and y^e other End is in a turn. The half paces are strip’d, the wood put w^th y^e Graine, the next slip against the Graine, w^ch makes it Looke pretty as if Inlaid.

You Enter one roome hung with Crosstitch in silks, the bed the same Lined w^th yellow and white strip’d sattin, window Curtaines white silk damaske w^th furbellows of Callicoe printed flowers, the Chaires Crosstitch and two stooles of yellow Mohaire w^th Crostitch, true Lower knotts in straps along and a Cross, an Elbow Chaire tentstitch; Glasses over all y^e Chimneys and Marble pieces. The windows in all the roomes had Cusheons. The next roome was Lady Dennagalls Chamber and Closet hung w^th very rich tapistry, the bed Crimson damaske Lined w^th white Jndia sattin, w^th Gold and Crimson flowers printed; the Chaires, one red damaske, the other Crostitch and tentstitch very Rich, soe round the roome. The Closet, Green damaske Chaires, and many fine pictures under Glasses, of tentstitch sattin stitch Gumm and strawwork, 297also jndia flowers birds &c. The roome over the Little parlour was M^rs Ruths, a pladd bed Lined w^th Jndian Callicoe, and an Jndia Carpet on the bed—w^th in was her Closet. Over this are good Garretts and staires to the Leads w^ch shews you all about the town.

The first garden is square, the walls full of trees and nail’d neate, an apricote, peach, plumb, necktarine, w^ch spread but not very high; between Each is a cherry stript up to the top and spreads, Composeing an arch over the others. There are borders of flowers round and a handsome Gravel round. The Grass plott is Large; in the middle a little Gravel in an oval or round, where is a Large fountain of stone full of stone Images to spout the water. This Garden is the breadth of the dwelleing house—the dineing roome and drawing roome Looke into it.

Out of this (which is ffenced by a breast wall w^th jron pallasadoes painted blew w^th Gilt topp) you ascend severall stepps through an jronwork’d gate to a ground divided into Long grass walks, severall of w^ch ascends y^e hill and between the Ground improv’d w^th Dwarfe trees of ffruite and flowers and greenes in all shapes, intermixt w^th beds of strawberyes for ornament and use. Thus to another bank w^th stepps to a Green Cross walke, and then more trees and devices. Thence to two mounts cut smoothe—between is a Cannall. These mounts are severall stepps up under which are jce houses; they are a square fflatt on the top ffenced with banks round and seates, beyond which is a summer house in a tree, which shews a great way off the Country. There are Low Cut hedges on Each bank, and painted sticks w^th Gilt tops in y^e greens and flower potts, and thus is one terrass above another. Over their stables are Chambers for y^e men, over the Kitchen and Dairy and buttery and scullery are roomes for Laundry, and for the maids.

S^r Thomas Cooke’s house has such an Enclosed walk before the gate, w^th swinging gates at Each End and a Larger in the middle.

Without it is a Row of oakes w^th thick heads w^ch makes it very shady. You Enter a Close gate into a Court, w^th a 298broad paved walk between two Large Grass-plotts, besett w^th Green Cyprus yew and holly in Piramids, and two Large Statues in the middle, the wall Clothed w^th box holly filleroy cut even. The ffront is two juttings out at the Ends flatt in the middle Like a half Roman H. You Rise a step or two into a good Hall pav’d w^th black and white marble, the sides painted black and white resembling nitches or arches for seates. On the Right hand is a good Dineing roome wanscoated oake without varnish, the pannell Large, and within a drawing roome w^ch Lookes into the garden, wanscoated. Over, Right, another square one. Between these runs an Entry, where in are Closets, and y^e Butlers office, to y^e Kitchen and offices, into y^e Stable, Coach yard and into a Laundry Court. In the Middle ffronting y^e Entrance is a Door into y^e garden. Just by is a Servants hall and way to y^e Cellars under. The Great Staires noble and Lofty, all wanscoate, hung w^th very good pictures. Above in the rooffe is frettwork and an oval Curiously painted with angells and ffigures.

Here are two very Good appartments, bed Chambers dressing-roome, Closets and presses; besides there are two other good Chambers w^th Closets, and one Large roome—y^e frame of y^e Chimney piece carv’d with all variety of fruites, herbes &c painted proper and all hollow work. Very good Pictures in all y^e roomes over Chimneys and doores, all fix’d into y^e wanscoate,—noe ffurniture. There is a very good p^r of back staires goes hence up to y^e Garret’s, one very Large, 6 other, besides Little room. There you ascend into a Cupilow, windows round shews a vast prospect of the place; from thence you may descend another such a good p^r of back staires to y^e kitchen. The Garden is in forme as M^r Ruth’s first flatt, but Larger, w^th a Larger fountaine, walled in w^th ffree stone, a pedistal w^th Little Cupids and Dolphins and shells on w^ch are Images, and on y^e top a Crown made all to spout out water. The walls full of fruite, in y^e middle you ascend severall stepps to a bank on w^ch are jron painted pallasadoes w^th Gilt top; gates to the same. Here is a Large square w^th green walks and gravell and ovall in the middle, with devices of Little paths of 299gravell to Cut the grass into shapes, squares and 3 squares. In the middle stands a Gladiator on a pedistal, and on y^e walls are Cupids at each riseing of the walls for the bank. On the Left side is a summer house w^th paints of the seasons of y^e yeare. Thence into another Garden for kitchen stuff and hott beds, with convenient houses. From this great fflatt you ascend severall stepps at three places—equal distance, and then Long green walks between borders of strawberies, dwarf trees, and some w^th green squares sett with Cyprus, Mirtle, yew, Holly cut fine and flowers, thus three severall bancks, the spaces so adorn’d. Then you pass on to a long green walke, the Right side or End is a fine summer house, the bank all along guarded with dwarffe trees; the other to y^e field side rowes of tall walnuts, with quick sett hedges cutt. This Carryes on not only the breadth of the house but the Length of the whole ground, w^ch is for y^e other garden for use; and just at the End of the pleasure garden begins a Large and Long pond or Cannall—y^e Length of the walke, w^ch is its bank cut fine. There is another great pond on the Right side of the house, and two more in the grounds belonging to it on the Left.

M^rs Steeven has a very pretty neate house and gardens, before the doore is a part railed in as before, only this is Close at Each end w^th high wall and seates. In the middle is a gate w^ch Leads to the gate of the Court, grass walled round, a broad pavement to the house, and round Stepps—4 or 5. You Enter into a passage w^ch Leads to a little parlour, thence a step or two down to an Entry, w^ch Leads away to a Little Court or passage, which runs to the streete and back to y^e garden.

On one side is a building, a summer parlour for a still roome, w^th brick kitchen and offices and Coach house and stables, w^th Chambers over for the men. There is in the first parlour a Large Closet, on the Left is a Large parlour and drawing-roome, all very neate and well wanscoated. Under the staircase is a little roome for a butler, thence the staires to the Cellars; this is between the back staires w^ch are very good and light, and wanscoated up to 300the garrets, and the great staires w^ch are very handsome painted white, the Rooffe an oval of Cupids. Here are two handsome Chambers with dressing-roomes and light and dark Closets and presses. Next floore is to such appartments againe. Over all are three good Garrets and two roomes for stores, and it is sashed up to the top w^th Low windows to sit in. Every Corner is improved for Cupboards and necessarys, and the doores to them made suiteable to y^e wanscoate. The garden goes out opposite to y^e Entrance the walls full of all fruite neately kept. Here are six Grass walks three and three, guarded w^th dwarfe fruite trees, a Large gravell walk round by the wall, and gravell between Each Grass walk. The front is a breast wall w^th a yew hedge cut neate, and jron pallisadoes painten and Gilt tops, with gates Leading to another Garden of grass Cut in shapes and knotts, w^th flowers and all sorts of greens cut in shapes, w^th paths of Gravel to fform them. On the Left side a Coddling hedge secured a walke of orange and Lemmon trees in perfection. This is Closed with a green house all the breadth of the garden, through w^ch you Enter another of fflowers; thence into orchard and kitchen garden w^ch is Cast in Exact forms to Look neate. In the green Garden was Large alloes plants and all sorts of Perpetualls as well as annualls.

There are abundance of houses built of brick, with fine gardens and Courts, w^th open gates and railes to view, w^ch are used as Lodgings for the Company; and now the wells are built about, and a Large Light roome to walk in brick’d, and a pump put on the well. A Coffee house and two roomes for gameing, and shops for sweetmeates and fruite. Monday morning is their day, the Company meete and then they have some Little diversion, as raceing of boys or Rabbets or Piggs. In the Evening the company meete in the Greenes, first in the upper Green many steps up, where are Gentlemen Bowling, Ladyes walking. There are Little Shopps and a gameing or danceing roome, the same man at the wells keepes it, sells Coffee there also. The Lower green is not farr off—just in the heart of the town: its a much neater green and warmer. The whole 301side of this is a very Large roome w^th Large sashe windows to the green, w^th Cusheons in the windows and seates all along. There are two hazard boards; at the End is a Milliner and China Shop, this is belonging to the Great tavern or Eateing house, and all the Length of this roome to the street ward is a Piaza wall, and a row of trees Cutt and platted together as the ffashion of the place, w^th tops running up a top with heads. The Crosse in the Streete has a Good Clock.

On the hill where is the race posts they have made a ring as in Hide Parke, and they Come in Coaches and drive round, but it is only Lords day nights and some nights. There has been 40 Coaches and six which are the Gentlemen in the County round, and 20 and 2 horses. The Company in y^e town Epshum shall be Clutter’d w^th Company from Satturday to Tuesday and then they many times goe, being so neare London, so come againe on more Satturdays.

Ffrom Epsham I went to Banstead where the parson of the Parish has diverted himself in his garden these fifty yeares, is now old and doates, but has Curious hedges, one Garden w^th Grass plotts and Earth walks Cut and wedd. His grass plotts has stones of divers fformes and sizes which he names Gods and Goddesses; and hedges and arbours of thorn soe neately Cut, and in all ffigures in great rounds. One is a Large arbour: You Enter a straite passage as unto a Cell, but within a roome, round y^t by a narrow Entry you Come to a Large Square with trees and seates, all quick sett hedges cut fine. One is a tree w^ch the ivy has Covered and there are staires up directly upright, and on y^e top is an Eight square Bench—round, the Green grows up Close about it cut even, this he Calls “Tenneriff” being in that fform. Next it is another tree, there is a fflatt and on it is a table or stoole on w^ch is a Great white stone in form of some statue that apole w^th 9 stones round less the muses—this is Parnassus. There are severall heads painted w^ch are named Mogul Grand Seignior, Cham of Tartary, Zarr of Muscovy, placed in severall places. Another Garden is Grass plotts w^th yews and holly Lawrells, 302round this on the bank is sett stones very thick, some very much bigger for officers, this is the whole Confederate army and their Generalls. Here is a trumpeter, Hercules and Bacchus and a hedge of Lawrell 7 foote broad. Here are also two trees Cover’d with Ivy and thorne Cut smooth and made in ffashion of two great pillars for Hercules pillars. There is in y^e middle some platted together and makes a Cover to a seate below, and there is a Rose Cut out—you may talk as under the Rose. In his house he has many Curiosetyes of stones, one like a brick of bread, another Like a shoulder of mutton, a piece of wood from an old tree as Like a mounteer capp w^th a button on the top, another like a furbellow’d peticoat, another stone like an apple paired and a piece Cut out and grown Deadish—its said this is Petrify’d into stone as the moss in Knarsborough and the wood at Apsley in Bedfordshire; here were many Shells, Birds, jndian shoes, bootes, purses &c.

Ffrom Epsham to Leatherhead 3 mile, we pass by S^r Robert Howards which I have described. Here is a little town where they make much Leather, and other little trades, many Butchers which supply Epsham. Here it is that the water which sinks away at Swallow hole at Mole under Box Hill which is 7 mile off, and here it Bubbles up in twenty places from a hill, and Compases a great river half a mile off, over which a long bridge of 14 great arches of stone by their Height shews sometimes the water to be very deep. A little farther its so deep as cannot be fforded, here the Channell is not so broad, only four Large Arches. We goe over thence a mile and halfe to M^r Moores ffine house on a hill, its built w^th brick and stone Coyned, and the windows Stone, nine sashes to the Garden; the jutting out in the middle is three windows. The top is in a peak painted frisco, and a Cornish round on Each side; a low building Each End Like Wings w^th same Cornish Leaded and flower potts on it, w^ch are the offices on one Side, and Lead to a summer House and backward to the private Entrance, a Court y^t you ascend by steps of stone and jron barristers with turnings and halfe paces to the part of y^e house in Constant use. The ffront in the Entrance is as 303the Garden, only here are but Eight windows, only two in the middle jutting the top, and that here you see not those two Low wings. You Enter by the Church yard, noe great Court or roome for it, a very Little court w^ch on the right hand Leads into y^e garden on a banck green walke, to a seate or summer house finely painted and stands on four pillars. Within this Leads into a gravel walk w^ch goes round y^e first Garden. The summer house you might pass through to the same green banck walk, which Leads to a broad Grass walk on the right hand up the hill near a quarter of a mile, Each side planted w^th trees, and y^e ground some for kitchen gardens orchards hott beds. The top of the hill has two white seates and a summer house, this has white open gates, Large as the walk. Here is a very fine pond runs across the breadth of the gardens and orchards. The Garden at the house is all flatt, much in Grass walks and bancks sett w^th green, most yews. There is a great gravel walk to the fountain from the middle of the house, w^ch is filled by a Long Cannall as broad as the walk; at the farther End is a trion gilt, with a horn w^ch can blow the water 20 yards. Here are seates on the bancks, and y^e ground is set much in Grass walks w^th dwarfe greens, which Cutts the grass plotts into four, which are Cutt into fflower deluces and Severall Devices w^th paths of Gravell, borders of mould, in which are greens of all sorts, Piramids and then round jnterchangeable. Beyond this is another space as Large, w^th a round space w^th a Large stone ffigure, and severall Less ffigures of brass in the little squares and strapps of grass, w^ch was fform’d by Cross and round gravell walks. There is two broad Gravell walks runns aslaunt like two wings from the first garden, as it were parrallel w^th the Cannall, and these terminate in a wood w^ch has a Glide through trees Cut aslant, agreable to the walks to give the view quite to Hampton town.

Thence to Hampton Court by Kingston 6 mile, all by the park, the palace Enters just by the Thames. On the gate is Lyon, Unicorn and fflower potts, the Starre and garter and Draggon y^e thistle and rose Carv’d. Here is a space 304where the Stables on one side and houses for suttlers for to provide for the servants. The front is in a Demy Circle—At the gates four towers of Brick. Beyond the half moone are two straite buildings in w^ch are gates, at the Ends two such brick towers, soe you Enter through those four towers. The guard Court on the Left goes to y^e old Buildings. On the Right you enter a long paved Entry; on one side are Lodgings, at the End are Cloysters round a Court which has a Large ffountaine in Grass, and at Each Corner a painted post for balls or Statues. The grass is planted round with Lawrell and yew, ffilleroy and Cyprus, cut a round head, and a Piramid. The Cloysters Lead to the royal Staircase which is very Lofty and spacious w^th arches for seates, the steps jron railes Carv’d and gilt, the wall black and gold painted w^th armory like a wanscoate. Over that is Curious paintings, the twelve Cæsars, over that the banquet of the Gods, all at Length, with Ceres over y^e side board w^th plenty. The rooffe is angells and Cherubims, the ffront on the halfe pace is Julian and the spectre that appear’d to him, in a tent of green, the Curtain drawn soe bold as if real w^th gold ffringe. Here you Enter y^e guard Chamber adorn’d with pikes, Halberts, Biounetts Daggers and Pistolls and gunns, w^th Bandeleers or pouches for amunition, all set in workes and ffigures about the Wanscoate, over y^e Chimney Pistolls and Daggers sett like the starre in the garter. Thence you go into an anty room hung w^th tapestry, thence into y^e Common audience roome where was a throne and Cannopy, crimson Damaske with Gold ffringe; the form the same round the roome. Here was King Charles y^e firsts Picture on horseback over the mantlepiece. All the rooffes of the roomes are Curiosly painted w^th different storyes. Out of this you Enter the Grand state roome which has King Williams Picture at Length on the Mantlepiece, ffine Pictures over all doores and Carvings in wood. The throne and Cannopy here was Scarlet velvet with Rich Gold orrice and window Curtains. Thence into the dineing roome where hangs in y^e middle a Chrystall Branch for Candles. Its hung with tapistry, I think its here the Queen of Bohemias Picture is over the Chimney piece—Sophia’s mother. The window 305Curtaines flower’d Crimson Damaske w^th gold ffringe; thence the drawing roome w^ch has a Silver branch in the middle, and sconces and Queen Marys Picture—here is Crimson velvet. Out of this is the presence Chamber w^th a Low screen across the roome to keep company off the bed w^ch is scarlet velvet w^th gold orrice and hung w^th fine tapistry. Out of y^e bedchamber goes the dressing roome hung w^th yellow damaske and Chaires the same. Here was the queen mother Dutchess of Yorks Picture over the Chimney, here is a doore into the private Lodgings where there is 2 bed Chambers, one Jndian Embroydery the other a mixt damaske; and Closets and antyroomes to the galleryes and backstaires.

Out of the dressing roome is the Queens Closet, the hangings, Chaires, Stooles and Screen the same, all of satten stitch done in worsteads, beasts, birds, jmages and ffruites all wrought very ffinely by Queen Mary and her maids of honour.

From thence into a Large Long gallery Wanscoated, and pictures of all the Roman warrs on one side, the other side was Large Lofty windows, two marble tables in two peers w^th two great open jarrs on Each side, Each table two such; at the End the same for to put potts of orange and mirtle trees in. The window Curtaines and couches or fformes all green and white rich damaske.

Out of this into a Long gallery, plain wanscoate without any adornment, which is for people to waite in, Either of the servants of the houshold or who waites in buissness of the ordinary sort, and here are doores that Lead to the back staires and to private Lodgings. This Leads at the End into the part was design’d for the Kings side, into a noble Gallery w^th Curious Pictures of y^e scriptures painted by the Carthusion.

The King of Ffrance offer’d 3000 pound apiece for them, or indeed any money. Here are green and white Damaske window Curtaines and Couches as the other was. This Leads to roomes not ffinished in the same number as on the queen’s side—one is begun to be painted on the top. The sides of the walls are painted just Like pieces of tapestry 306here is Prince Georges picture at Length, w^th his Dukall Corronet, and an Anchor as High Admirall, and thus to the other roomes, to y^e guardroome and Royal Staircase as on the Queens side, but none here ffinish’d. The Leads gives a vast sight all about of the parke and gardens, the ffront of the house to the garden has four Large stone ffigures Hercules, jupiter, Mars, Neptune.

There is a long Cannall runs from the ffront a great way, and a Large ffounttaine next the house in the first garden, w^th a broad Gravell and a Cross. till I came almost to Windsor—I drove by some of the fforest and the parke and came in another way into town by y^e Castle across K: Charles’s Walk. jn the Castle yard is a Little box the queen has bought of Lord Godolphin. The garden joyns to the Duke of S^t Albans for a little retreate out of y^e Palace. You Enter a Brick Court, on the Left is a Little Guard roome, on y^e Right a Row of roomes w^th Chambers over them for the Kitchen and Pastry and Butteryes, and a Little garden pailed in. Then you go on, and on the Left hand Enter the house into an Entry: on the Left is a little parlour for y^e Ladies of honour to dine in, beyond that Back Staires Pantry and a Cistern or Place to Wash things in; by that is the guard roome, under it the Cellars.

On the Right hand is a Large Antyroome for persons to wait, where are Marble tables in y^e Peeres between the windows; white damaske window curtaines and cane chaires. Next it is the Dineing roome some stepps down, where was red silk Curtaines Chaires and stooles, and Benches round the roome all red silk, w^th same coull^d orrice Lace; here was a white marble table behind the doore as a sideboard, and a Clap table under y^e Large Looking Glass between the windows. Next this was a drawing roome; both these roomes were hung w^th small Jmage tapistry very Lively and ffresh, here was Crimson Damaske window Curtaines, Chaires and stooles. The next was what was Prince George’s dressing roome, hung, and window Curtaines Chaires and stooles, all w^th yellow damaske, w^th marble Chimney pieces as all y^e Roomes have of Differing Coull^rs black white, grey, rance &c &c. Large Looking-glasses; all the roomes in all 307y^e house is plaine unvarnished oake Wanscoate which Lookes very neate. W^thin the dressing roome is a Closet on one hand, the other side is a Closet y^t Leads to a little place w^th a seate of Easement of Marble w^th sluces of water to wash all down. There is a back doore in y^e dressing roome, to a little anty roome with presses, a little Wanscoate table for tea, cards or writeing, so to a back staires;—the Queen’s appartment is over it. From y^e Greate Staire at the Entrance of the house Lands you in a passage that Enters—the anty roome is Crimson damaske curtains. Great chaire and Stooles and Benches; the same next it. The presence roome here is ffigured Crimson Velvet window Curtaines, Chaires and stooles; here is the Q. A Wife to K. James the First at Length in her Rideing habit, by her horse and three or four Couple of hounds—these were hung w^th ffine tapistry as the two below.

Next this was the Queen’s bedChamber, hung, the bed, window-curtaines the same, all Rich Crimson Damaske. Here was the screen round the bed as the manner is to all the Souveraignes beds. Over the Chimney was Prince George’s Picture and by the side of the bed was the Duke of Glocester’s in an oval. Thence into a Dressing-roome hung with Divers Coull^d flowered sattin, chaires and stooles the same, ffine fflower’d muslin window curtaines, A fine Little high screen burnt jappan of 4 Leaves, another Chimney screen w^th 4 Leaves of the stone work in ffigures—jndian. Out of this was y^e Queens Closet just over Prince Georges but y^t was Locked. The other side was a little waiting roome to Just such marble seates of Easem^t w^th the sluces of water as that below was in the Queens bedChamber. Overright y^e Entrance of the dressing-roome was another Little Closet with the tea Equipage, and under that was such a Little tea roome within y^e drawingroome. Here in the dressing roome was a backway to a little waiting passage, with presses and such little wanscoate tables; this Leads to the back staires where there is one bedchamber. The Queen’s appartment ffronts the garden; out of the drawing roome you come on a terrass of Gravell, then descend stepps down a green banck to a large green 308space that has 4 bench seates painted white; behind them is a Green bank, and a Large space of green on Either end fill’d with trees, Lawrell ffrilleroy, Cyprus, yews, heads a Pirramids, and Mirtles. This is ffenced with jron palasadoes painted, to another garden cut in squares and figures, with all sorts of fflowers and greens, which has at y^e End a Cut hedge and Leads on to a sort of orchard with dwarfe trees. These gardens and orchards is in Gravel Walks and Long green walks, in variety as such a thing in miniature can admitt.

I drove through another part of Windsor to see a Race run by two ffootemen—an English and Scotch—the fformer a taller Bigger man than the other. The ground Measur’d and Cut even in a round ring, was almost four mile; they were to run it round so often as to make up 22 mile, which was the distance between Chareing Cross and Windsor Cross—that was five times quite round and so farre as made up the odd miles and Measure. They ran a round in 25 minutes. I saw them run the first three rounds and halfe another, in an hour and seventeen minutes, and they ffinished it in two hours and a halfe. The English gain’d the second round the start, and kept it at the same distance y^e five rounds, and then the Scotchman came up to him and got before him to the post. The Englishman fell down within a few yards of the post. Many hundred pounds were won and lost about it, they ran both very neately, but my judgment Gave it y^e Scotchman because he seem’d to save himself to y^e Last Push.

I drove home by a fine house of Lord Rawnelaughs, 14 windows in the ffront, a square building—much gardening and Curious they say, but that Ladyes Pride is, none must see them, and soe Drove a fine Gravell road cut with rows of trees. In a mile you come to a broad open way to Windsor on the Left hand, on the Right to a little house of y^e Duchess of Marlboroughs, which is very exact gardens and ffountaines, Cut hedges and Groves, pail’d in; ffrom this house is the ffine Gravell walke continued very broad between high rows of trees—on one hand a ffine Grove of straite trees.

309 This is three mile to Windsor all a Clear visto to the Castle, to that which is K. Charle’s Walke for Shooting, which you Enter by a Broad Pallasadoe-ffences the whole breadth of the road. So at y^e other End which is a mile and goes out into the road w^ch comes ffrom Hampton Court which you Cross into the yards and Courts that lead up into the Castle.