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Montreal, 1884: Letters, by Clara Rayleigh

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Title: The British Association's visit to Montreal, 1884: Letters

Author: Clara Rayleigh

Release Date: November, 2004 [EBook #6876]
[Yes, we are more than one year ahead of schedule]
[This file was first posted on February 6, 2003]

Edition: 10

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THE BRITISH ASSOCIATION'S VISIT TO MONTREAL, 1884.

LETTERS BY CLARA LADY RAYLEIGH,

Printed for Private Circulation.




INTRODUCTION.

THE BRITISH ASSOCIATION.

(Reprinted from The Times, 1884)

It seems early to begin to speak of the arrangements for the next
meeting of the British Association, but it is a far cry to Montreal, and
a proportionately long start must be made before the final leap is
taken. So heartily have the Dominion Government and the Canadian
_savants_ entered into the preparations that everything is ready;
all the presidents, vice-presidents and secretaries of sections have
been selected; all arrangements made with steamship companies and
American railways; all excursions have been planned, and all possible
routes provided for; instructions of the most detailed kind have been
drawn up for the guidance of members; nothing has been left, indeed,
except what depends on contingencies of time and place, so that
Professor Bonney and his legion of officials may at any moment take up
their portmanteaus and walk on shipboard. All this forwardness and
completeness are largely due to the zeal of the High Commissioner, Sir
Charles Tupper, and his energetic and obliging secretary, Mr. Colmer.
When the decision was come to at Southampton to hold the meeting of 1884
in Canada there was widely expressed disapproval of the step, and doubt
as to its legitimacy; but the prospect of entertaining the upper
thousand of English science has evidently so greatly gratified our
Canadian brothers that even the most stiff-necked opponent of the
migration must be compelled to give in if he has a shred of good nature
and brotherly feeling left. There are doubtless a few grumblers who will
maintain that the Montreal assembly will not be a meeting of the
_British_ Association; but after all this Imperial Parliament of
Science could not be better occupied than in doing something to promote
science in one of the most important sections of the British dominions.
Indeed, since some maintain that so far as this country is concerned it
has almost ceased to have a _raison d'etre_, might it not extend
its functions and endeavour to exercise the same effective influence on
the promotion of science in other parts of the Empire as it has
undoubtedly done in the past in the Mother Country? It can scarcely hope
ever to hold a meeting either in Australia or India, nor even, we fear,
in South Africa; but there are other means Which it might adopt more
appropriately than any other body to encourage the progress of science
in these parts of the Empire, and make accessible to the public
interested in it the good work which is being done, at least in some of
the Australian colonies. In Canada itself there are several important
scientific societies; but so far as we know, they have no common bond of
union. Seeing that there is already an efficient American Association,
we should not advocate the formation of a separate Canadian body; but
possibly the Montreal meeting might be able to do something to
federalise the separate Canadian societies. We suggested some years ago
that the Association might do such a service to the numerous local
societies in this country, and we are glad to know that the suggestion
has borne fruit, and that already a real advance has been made in this
direction.

But whatever may be the results of the Montreal meeting, it is clear
from the programme which has been drawn up that everything possible is
being done to render the occasion one of genuine enjoyment to all who
are fortunate enough to be present. The Canadian Parliament has voted so
handsome a sum for the entertainment of the Association that its
expenses are likely to be less than at an ordinary meeting. Provision
has been made for free passages and free living for fifty of the
officials, who need not spend a penny from the time they set foot upon
the steamer until they step ashore again upon their native land. Not
only so, but a sum of $14,000 has been allotted for the reduction of
members' passages to Canada in addition to any abatement of fares
allowed by the steamship companies. The most important of these
companies, sailing not only to Quebec and Montreal, but to New York and
Newport, offer reductions averaging about 10 per, cent, on the ordinary
fares. The companies who offer these advantages are the Allan, the
Dominion, the Beaver, White Star, Cunard, National, Anchor, Guion,
Inman, Monarch, and Union lines; so that intending visitors have ample
choice of route. On the other side, again, all the railway companies
have shown the greatest liberality. The Government railways are free to
all who produce members' vouchers. The Canada Pacific Line will from
July 1 up to the date of the departure of the special free excursion to
the Rocky Mountains, grant to visiting members free passes over its
lines to the northward (Rocky Mountains, Lake Superior, &c.) and
intermediate points. This company also offers to one hundred and fifty
members of the Association a free special excursion to the Rocky
Mountains, by way of Georgian Bay, Thursday Bay, and Winnipeg, providing
that those places passed during the night on the outward journey will be
repassed during the day on the return. The only thing members will have
to pay for will be meals, which will be provided at a rate not exceeding
2s. Arrangements, moreover, will be made for trips and excursions from
Toronto, across Lake Ontario to Niagara, under the direction of local
committees to be formed in both places, giving to all members an
opportunity of visiting the Falls. Various other excursions have been
liberally arranged for by the company, so that visitors will have ample
opportunity of seeing most that is worth seeing in Canada for
practically nothing. The Canada Atlantic Railway has also arranged for
several free excursions, while the Grand Trunk, the North Shore, the
Central Vermont, and other railways in the States offer tickets to
members at something like half the usual rates; thus those who proceed
to New York may visit various parts of the States before proceeding
northwards to Canada at extremely cheap rates. At all the Canadian
cities to be visited local committees will be organized to receive the
excursionists and to care for them during their stay. The circular
prepared for the members gives every information as to routes,
distances, fares, &c., so that they may make all their arrangements
before leaving England. The telegraph companies, not to be behindhand,
undertake to transmit messages during the meeting for members from
Montreal to all parts of Canada and the United States free of charge.

Of course, it is not to be expected that all those advantages will be
given indiscriminately to all who may apply, and doubtless the great
accession of members at the Southport meeting was partly due to the
prospective visit to Canada. But only those members elected at or before
the Southampton meeting will share in the benefit of the $14,000
allotted for reduction of passage money, and until further notice no new
members or associates can be elected except by special vote of the
Council. This is as it should be, otherwise the meeting would be largely
one of mere "trippers," instead of genuine representatives of British
science. The Council have taken every precaution to render the Montreal
Meeting one of real work, and no mere holiday; from respect to itself as
well as to its hosts, the Association is bound to show itself at its
best. At the same time, the Council have extended all the privileges of
associates to the near relatives of members to the number of three for
each, so that members will have no excuse for doing Canada _en
garcon_. Of course those applying for the privileges mentioned must
produce satisfactory evidence of their identity, and in return will
receive vouchers which will serve as passports on the other side. Those
desirous of obtaining information as to hotels and other local matters,
must apply to the local secretary, care of Mr. S. C. Stevenson, 181, St.
James's Street, Montreal.

Already somewhere about six hundred applications nave been received, and
it is quite probable that at least one thousand members and associates
may be crowding across next August. Those members who wish to share in
the subsidy of $14,000 must apply before March 25, and no voucher will
be issued after July 20. We may say that the reduced railway fares
mainly extend from August 1 to the end of September. The active and
courteous secretary, Professor Bonney, on whom so much depends, will
arrive in Montreal three weeks before the opening of the meeting, August
27, for the purpose of securing that everything is in train. It is
expected that all the addresses will be printed here in time for
transmission to Montreal. So far at least as the officials are
concerned, the Canada Meeting will be a representative one. The
President elect, Lord Rayleigh, one of the most solid exponents of
British science, will certainly prove equal to the occasion. The
vice-presidents show a large Transatlantic contingent; they are, his
Excellency the Governor-General, Sir John A. Macdonald, Sir Lyon
Playfair, Sir Alexander Gait, Sir Charles Tupper, Sir Narcisse Dorion,
Hon. Dr. Chauveau, Principal Dawson, Professor Frankland, Dr. L. H.
Hingston, and Professor Sterry Hunt. Sir Joseph Hooker, we may say, has
also been nominated by the Council a vice-president, in place of the
late Sir C. W. Siemens. Perhaps it is scarcely necessary to state that
the general treasurer, Professor A W. Williamson, and the general
secretaries, Captain Douglas Galton and Mr. A. G. Vernon Harcourt, will
be present. There are five local secretaries and a local treasurer. The
presidents of the sections are all men of the highest standing in their
particular departments; it would be difficult, indeed, to suggest a
better selection. In Section A, Mathematical and Physical Science, it is
a great thing that Professor Sir William Thomson has been persuaded to
preside. No more representative chemist than Professor Roscoe could have
been obtained for Section B; in C, Geology; Mr. W. T. Blanford, the head
of the Indian Geological Survey, is sure to do honour to his subject; in
Section D, Biology, Professor Moseley, a man of thoroughly Darwinian
type of mind, will preside; in F, Economic Science, Sir Richard Temple
will be a host in himself; while in G, Mechanical Science, Sir F J.
Bramwell is sure to be vigorous and original; finally, in the new
section H, Anthropology, Dr. E. B. Tylor is the very man that ought to
have been selected. Lord Aberdare, we regret to say, has been compelled
to retire from the presidency of the Geographical Section; but for a
Canadian meeting no more suitable president could be obtained than the
veteran Arctic explorer, Sir Leopold McClintock, who, we trust, will be
persuaded to take the place of Lord Aberdare. All the vice-presidents
and secretaries of sections have been chosen with equal care; and thus
the Association has taken the very best means of proving to the
Canadians how highly they, appreciate the honour of the invitation, and
in what respect they hold their prospective audiences. For the public
lectures, the popular feature of the meetings, it is hoped to secure the
services of Professor W. G. Adams, the able Professor of Physics in
King's College, London, who it is hoped will be able to go; Dr.
Dallinger, the well-known-biologist, and Professor Ball, the witty and
eloquent Astronomer Royal for Ireland, who will deliver the popular
lecture _par excellence_.

Thus it will be seen that every possible arrangement has been made that
could be made beforehand to insure complete success, and there can be
little doubt that neither the Association nor the Canadians will be
disappointed. Section A is following the example set last year in
Section D by Professor Ray Lankester. The Committee, as we have already
announced, are sending out a circular inviting mathematicians and
physicists to co-operate with them in sustaining discussions and
contributing papers; one of the special subjects for discussion in this
section on September 1st will be the vexed one of the connection between
sun spots and terrestrial phenomena. In conclusion we may say that the
American Association will meet in Philadelphia on September 3rd, and
those who have not had enough of science at Montreal can enjoy another
week of it at the Quaker City. The Philadelphia Committee have sent a
cordial invitation to the members of the British Association to attend
their meetings, offering to do the utmost in their power to make the
visit at once pleasant and profitable. This will be a red letter year in
the history of both Associations.




Letter No. 1.


_Thursday, August 21st, 1884; on board "PARISIAN,"--getting near
Newfoundland._

My beloved Mother.--I sent you some lines from the train on Saturday
16th, and a card to Clara after we arrived on board. This is a capital
ship, and lucky for us it is so, for we have had a regular gale. I
little thought it was possible that I should dislike any sea as I do
this Atlantic! It has been dreadful weather--grey in the clouds above
and waters beneath, and blowing hard, without anything to brighten the
vast waste of waters, and I have heartily wished myself away from it.
This truly humiliating state of things will cause you to triumph over
me, no doubt! I became uncomfortable and headachy and could do nothing,
nor bear to stay in the saloon, and the drawing room, such as it is, is
taken possession of by the men, who lay themselves down full length on
the seats and leave no room for any ladies, so I have stayed in my
cabin. Dr. Protheroe Smith has been quite a comfort to me. He is such a
good man, and so pleasant, and has given me things to read, and relates
interesting medical and religious experiences. While I write, an
enormous wave has dashed against my port light and given me a flash of
darkness. Hedley has been rather ill, but has never quite lost his
appetite. Gibson and the two others have held out well. Evelyn has been
in her berth since Monday, when it began to blow, but she has not been
really ill. John and Dick have braved the storm on deck, and say the
sight of the waves from the stern was magnificent, but I don't care for
this kind of awful uncomfortable magnificence, which makes me feel a
miserable shrimp, whose fate it is to be swallowed up by these raging
waves, and who well deserves it. So I only made a feeble attempt to get
to the deck on Monday, and was glad, to leave it in half an hour when it
rained. I went down to the drawing room to look at some men playing
chess, but as the others stared at me as if I had no right to be there,
and the motion was very bad, I had soon to leave ignominiously. Mr.
Barrett has entertained me with some ghost stories, well authenticated
and printed for private circulation. I have begun writing this to-day
because there seems some chance of posting it on Saturday or Sunday,
when Sir Leonard and Lady Tilley and two sons are to be landed at New
Brunswick as we pass down the Straits of Belle Isle, I think. I shall
not see your birth-place as we shall be too far off.


_Friday, 22nd._--I went upon deck after breakfast in a great hurry
to see an iceberg. I was greeted with great kindness by every one after
my three days' seclusion, and thoroughly enjoyed the day and the ocean
for the first time. It was very cold but clear and sparkling, and there
was no motion to speak of; after the gale, and the great hills and
valleys of the Atlantic roll in a storm, it seemed impossible it could
be so smooth; but we are to have every experience of weather, as a fog
came on and we steamed very slowly and blew fog signals for an hour!
However, the sun broke forth and lifted the curtain of fog, and within a
quarter of a mile we saw a beautiful iceberg twelve or fifteen hundred
feet deep, they said, and so beautiful in its ultra marine colouring.
The shape was like a village church somewhat in ruins. Miss Fox, a
sister of Caroline Fox, is on board and sketched the icebergs and the
waves during the storm very cleverly. They were also photographed by Mr.
Barrett and a professional. After dinner we were all on deck again and
watched for the lights on the coast of Labrador, which mark the entrance
into the Straits of Belle Isle, and at last a twinkle caught my eye and
we all greeted it with joy! Isn't it wonderful that a ship can be
steered across that vast expanse of water straight to this light, in
spite of clouds and storms and without the sight of sun or moon or
stars? If I was teaching a class I should quote this as a good
illustration of "God's mysterious ways." We wander on through all the
changes, and chances of this mortal life, and we don't know the why, or
when, or where, but at last we see the lights of heaven looming on our
horizon and are at the haven where we would be. Then we realize that all
the time He was guiding us by ways that we knew not! In the evening we
heard an auction amusingly carried on, though I did not approve of the
gambling connected with it; and then Mr. Barrett gave a short account of
apparitions, and there was a discussion.

I am now writing after breakfast on Saturday and we expect to reach
Quebec on Sunday night. It will be a dreadful disappointment if we don't
see the first view, which is so fine, by daylight. We entered the Gulf
of St. Lawrence last night (Friday). I give you a list of our saloon
fellow passengers and you will see that I knew a good many of them
before.

LIST OF SALOON PASSENGERS PER S. "PARISIAN," (CAPTAIN JAMES WYLIE,) FOR
QUEBEC, AUGUST 16TH, 1884.

  Mr. H. Alabaster
  Mr. A. H. Allen
  Dr. J. T. Arlidge
  Mr. Atchison
  Mr. B. Baker
  Major E. Bance
  Miss Barlow
  Mr. W. F. Barrett
  Dr. Beamish
  Mr. G Belyea
  Mr. G W. Bloxam
  Miss Bodman
  Dr. H. Borns
  Mr. Stephen Bourne
  Miss E E. Bourne
  Miss E. M. Bourne
  Mr. A. H. Bradley
  Sir Frederick Bramwell
  Mr. R. G. Brook
  Mr. Robert Capper
  Mrs. Capper
  Mr. G. C. Chatterton
  Mr. W. H. Clemmey
  Mr. C. Cooke
  Mrs. Cooper
  Miss Cooper
  Mr. F. B. C. Costelloe
  Mr. Crampton
  Mrs. Crampton
  Mr. Crookshank
  Mr. W. C. Davy
  Miss Daw
  Mr. W. Boyd Dawkins
  Mr. Thomas Denman
  Prof. Dewar
  Mrs. Dewar
  Mr. G. E. Dobson
  Mr. R. Edminson
  Mr. E. Farnworth
  Mr. J. Fewings
  Prof. G. Forbes
  Mr. R Formby
  Mr. C. Le Neve Foster
  Mr. Howard Fox
  Miss Fox
  Prof. Fream
  Hon. C. W. Fremantle
  Capt. Douglas Galton
  Mr. John L. Garsed
  Dr. J. H. Gilbert
  Mrs. Gilbert
  Mr. J. H. Gladstone
  Miss Gladstone
  Miss Gladstone
  Miss Gladstone
  Mr. J. H. Glover
  Mr. A. G. Greenhill
  Mr. Egbert de Hamel
  Mr. N. C. Hardcastle
  Mr. B. W. Hardcastle
  Dr. G. Harley
  Mr. N. B. Harley
  Miss Harris
  Mr. R. T. Herford
  Miss A. C. Herford
  Mr. Horniman
  Mr. W. Hurst
  Mr. John Jones
  Rev. Harry Jones
  Mr. George Oliver Jones
  Miss Fanny Jones
  Mr. R. H. Jones
  Hon. Mrs. Joyce
  Rev. A. G. Joyce
  Mr. Simeon Kaye
  Mr. J. W. Leahy
  Mr. B. T. Leech
  Mrs. Leech
  General Sir J. H. Lefroy, K. C. M. G.
  Lady Lefroy, and Maid
  Mr. James A. Love
  Mr. William Lukes
  Mr. W. Macandrew
  Mr. G. Mackay
  Mr. U. Mackay
  Mr. Harry Mackeson
  Mr. James Mackrell
  Mr. Samuel Marsden
  Mr. James Mactear
  Mr. W. P. Marshall
  Dr. W. R. McNab
  Mr. C. T. Mitchell
  Mr. W. J. Muirhead
  Mr. Hugo M. Muller
  Mr. E. K. Muspratt
  Miss J. Muspratt
  Mr. J. S. O'Halloran
  Admiral Sir E. Ommanney
  Mr. W. H. Perkin
  Mr. W. H. Perkin, Jun.
  Mr. L. G. Pike
  Mr. Benjamin Pilling
  Mr. John Pilling
  Mrs. Pilling
  Mr. John Powell
  Mr. W. H. Preece
  Mr. P. Price
  Mrs. Price
  Lord Rayleigh
  Lady Rayleigh
  Clara Lady Rayleigh, and Maid
  Mr. J. B. Readman
  Mr. A. W. Reinold
  Mr. C. Richardson
  Mr. R. Richardson
  Mrs. Richardson
  Mr. A. Rigg
  Mr. A. F. Riddell
  Mrs. Riddell
  Rev. J. Robberds
  Prof. W. Chandler Roberts
  Mrs. Roberts
  Mr. G. H. Robertson
  Mrs. Robertson
  Canon Rogers
  Mr. W. Rogers
  Earl of Rosse
  Mr. P. L. Sclater
  Mr. W. L. Sclater
  Mr. Sydney C. Scott
  Mr. A. Sedgwick
  Prof. H. S. Hele Shaw
  Prof. J. P. Sheldon
  Mr. George Smith
  Dr. P. Smith
  Dr. H. Smith
  Prof. W. J. Sollas
  Mr. E. Sollas
  Mr. Sowden
  Mr. A. Sowden
  Dr. W. D. Spanton
  Mr. Russell Stephenson
  Mr. T. H. Stockwell
  Hon. R. Strutt
  Hon. H. V. Strutt
  Mr. A. Summers
  Mr. R. W. Cooke-Taylor
  Mrs. Cooke-Taylor
  Mr. T. H. Thomas
  Dr. Alex. S. Thomson
  Mr. William Thomson
  Mr. W. J. Thomson
  Dr. H. G. Thompson
  Sir Leonard Tilley, K.C.M.G., C.B.
  Lady Tilley
  Master Herbert Tilley
  Master Leonard Tilley
  Mr. W. Topley
  Mr. W. Tribe
  Mr. G. S. Turner
  Capt. H. S. Walker
  Mrs. Walker
  Mr. Ward
  Miss Ward
  Mr. C. A. Wells
  Rev. E. Wells
  Mr. Westgarth
  Mrs. Westgarth
  Mrs. Westgarth
  Mr. W. Whitaker
  Miss E. H. Williamson
  Mr. E. S. Williams
  Miss Wilson
  Rev. H. H. Winwood
  Mr. Alfred Wood
  Mrs. Wood
  Mr. H. T. Wood
  Mr. A. W. Worthington
  Miss Worthington
  Mr. T. Wrightson
  Mr. F. York
  Mrs. York

This afternoon was very dull and grey. I played a game of four chess,
and there was a concert in the evening,--every two or three minutes
broken in upon by the roar of a wild beast called the fog horn. It was
very funny to hear the apropos way it came in when Canon Rogers was
reciting Hiawatha. "Minnihaha said ----" then a roar! One of the party
read a paper, and a really witty burlesque on this supposed wild beast
and its anatomy. John is so well and, I think, very popular: Evelyn is a
much better sailor than one anticipated. Captain Douglas Galton told me
John's address was admirable, but I would not read it, as I want to
judge of it as others will, when it is delivered. I have had no
_whist!_ think of that--at first people were too ill, and then so
much on deck, and they play in the smoking room, I hear, and perhaps
gamble for higher stakes than I like!--which perhaps you will say is not
surprising as I never play for anything.


_Sunday, August 24th._--We have had a bright but cold day and
brisk wind--in fact I have felt colder than when the icebergs were round
us! We had service in the morning--Mr. Joyce read prayers' and Canon
Rogers preached; and at three we Lad the excitement of seeing Sir
Leonard and Lady Tilley, and two sons, with innumerable packages, taken
off in a tug to New Brunswick--_Rimouski_ was the name of the
town, and the still greater excitement followed of receiving from it the
Secretary of the Lodging Committee at Montreal, who brought quantities
of letters, papers, &c. I had a letter from Mr. Angus, asking me and a
son to stay with them during our visit to Montreal, and it is close to
where Dick is invited (Mr. and Mrs. McClennan's), and near John and
E---. I also heard from Mr. Dobell, very kindly offering his house and
carriage for my use while at Quebec; he and his family are away camping
in the woods. You never saw a scene of greater excitement than the
appearance of the saloon when the President opened the parcel containing
letters, newspapers, and telegrams, after a week's total abstinence from
all news; everyone _seized_ upon their respective letters, &c.,
with eagerness; the only person who did not look happy, was John, for he
found the arrangements made would be too much for him, and he and
Captain Gallon set themselves to try and alter them, in which I hope
they will succeed. The Secretary sat opposite me at dinner, and told me
how anxious they all were to make everything comfortable for us. It is
doubtful whether we stay at Quebec to-morrow night, or go on to Montreal
at once, as there is to be an excursion on Friday next to Quebec, and
grand reception, and picnic or garden party on the following day. If you
find a difficulty in reading the indelible pencil, tell me; it is more
convenient to use travelling. We had an interesting conference on prayer
this afternoon (Sunday), and I have just returned from another smaller
one. A scientific man asked questions as to whether we could
_prove_ answers to prayer would be given for _physical_
blessings, or what we consider such; or whether prayer was only a
sentiment (as Tyndal thinks)? Professor Barrett and a dear old
clergyman, Canon Rogers (who, in my ignorance, I had thought, at first,
was a "dry stick") argued the matter with him, and also Dr. P. Smith and
his son, and Miss Fox and I said a few words. Now, about nine o'clock,
they are all singing hymns, very much out of tune. I must finish this up
now for it must be posted to-morrow, or may miss the mail on Tuesday. I
have thoroughly enjoyed the last three days, and am almost sorry the
voyage is over, and so, I think, are many of my fellow passengers. Some
of them are very good and nice. Miss Fox is delightful--upwards of
eighty, and yet so full of interest in everything good and beautiful;
she is like a piece cut out of the old past, and a very wonderful old
fossil, full of energy and cleverness. Hedley desires his love, and is
very well and happy. We go to 240, Drummond Street, Montreal, on Monday
or Tuesday, Dick in same street, and John and E--- near. Gibson has
never been ill at all! Good-bye, now, and God bless you all, darling
Mother, and everyone dear to me at home. Two or three times during the
gale, Hedley and I said to each other, "How nice it would be to be
sitting with you at No. 90, O--- G---."--but now we have not that
desire' From your loving child,--C. R.




Letter No. 2.


_Tuesday, August 26th, Beavoir, Quebec._

My first letter was brought up to 24th. I forgot to tell you then of an
interesting discussion with a clever and honest infidel, Mr. X---.
Through ---- (who had told me about him), I had lent him "Natural Law,"
and (seeing him standing about looking, I thought, rather sad as we were
all singing "Rock of Ages, cleft for me") I asked him his opinion of the
book, and he said "on Mr. D.'s assumption of the existence of a Personal
God, it is very clever, and with your views I would certainly circulate
it." Of course, I could not argue with a man well armed at all points
for attack (as these infidels generally are), though they are weak
enough at defence, their explanations of life's mysteries being as
unsatisfactory and vague as that of any ignorant Bible woman; and so
when others joined us I gave way, and he said as a _crusher_--"I
see you are a very sincere and conscientious lady, but you are very
_fanatical_." I replied, as my parting shot, "Well, of course, I
cannot do justice to my cause, but at any rate you have nothing to offer
_me_; convince me and others, if you can, that we are wrong (and
thank God we have a noble army on our side), what have you to give us in
the place of our beliefs? Nothing! a mere negation." He answered--"What
have you to give me?" "Oh," I replied, "a mere _nothing, only_
peace and power for holiness now and a glorious hope for the future, and
so (shaking hands) good bye." I could scarcely speak to him for crying,
for it was so painful to hear his words about our Blessed Saviour. After
our discussion on prayer in the back cabin, a young man who was there
and who was sitting near me while I was writing to you, began to talk it
over. "Well," I said, "the best answer to those objections about prayer
that I know, is to try it, and then I am sure no arguments will then
shake your confidence that there is a God who heareth and answereth
prayer." It is like our Lord's cure of the blind man. "How did He do
it?" they ask, and ask in vain for any explanation which could be
understood, but the man says "I don't know, but whereas I was blind, now
I see," and the Pharisees beat themselves to pieces against that rock.
You may imagine I went to my berth heartily tired after the excitement
of this long day.


_Monday, 25th._--I got up at six and rushed on deck, and with a
lovely clear sky and shining sun and a brisk breeze, I found we were
steaming along the river St. Lawrence. We devoured with our eyes the
beautiful views on each side, mountains of blue and violet, wooded to
their summits, and Canadian villages nestling at their feet on the banks
of the river, with glittering spires of _blanche_ for every seven
miles, like tall milestones, and then we reached the entrance to Quebec,
which is indeed magnificent! the splendid water-way, with the fine
position of Quebec, makes it a grand sight, and I was not disappointed;
and the clear and brilliant morning sunshine showed us all to
perfection. Then came such a scene of hurry and confusion,--but we were
favored: Captain R. Stephenson, the Governor-General's A.D.C., who had
been our fellow passenger, received instructions from him, and we were
conveyed in a police steamboat to the other side--to the Citadel; there
was also a letter from Lord Lansdowne to John, asking him and E--- and
any of his party to breakfast, brought by Captain Streatfield, another
A.D.C. Our maids and luggage were left in charge of the police at their
wharf station. On reaching the wharf a carriage conveyed us to the
Citadel,--such a drive, up the side of a house! over a great many
boulders. A curious old town is Quebec--thoroughly like a French town,
with French spoken everywhere, and French dirt and air of poverty and
untidiness, as in the remoter and older towns of France.

Lord and Lady Lansdowne received us most kindly, and besides there was
Lady Florence Anson (her niece, who is engaged to Captain Streatfield),
Lady Melgund, whose husband is away in Ottawa looking after canoe men
for Egypt, and a young Mr. Anson, A.D.C. After seeing the view from the
balcony--a splendid panorama of Quebec and the river St. Lawrence, with
its tributary St. Charles, and the surrounding country backed by blue
mountains, we went in to our second breakfast, and much we enjoyed our
tea. Lord Lansdowne sat next me and was very pleasant. Afterwards he
asked John and E--- and me and the boys to dine, apologising for not
asking us all to sleep there, on the grounds of not having room, which
is true enough, for the house is not large. I thought it best to decline
for myself and two sons, as I was going with them for the night to this
place (Mr. Dobell's), four miles away. Then came a Secretary of the
Local Committee to discuss arrangements with John, and alter the
programme somewhat for next Friday and Saturday, when we are expected to
revisit Quebec.

John is much afraid that the long-list of engagements will bring on his
rheumatism and knock him up for the real Business in Montreal. After
this we had the carriage and drove in state to the Hotel where John and
E--- were to sleep, arranged about our berths on the steamer for
Montreal, saw numbers of our fellow-passengers who had not gone to
Montreal, and drove to the wharf and only brought a little luggage to
come here with. They told me I should not want umbrellas ("Our climate
here is very different from yours," said they), nor wraps, but I
persisted in bringing a few, fortunately, for it has been pouring all
night and up to this time (twelve o'clock Wednesday), and it was so cold
besides. While at the hotel (I forgot to mention _that_) a card was
handed to me with Mr. Price's name on it. I could not think who he was,
but he soon came and mentioned Capt. F--- (Julia Spicer's son-in-law),
and then I remembered he had promised to mention us to the Prices. He
offered to drive one of the ladies in his buggy to his house near the
Montmerenci Falls, where we were all to lunch, and E--- went in it, and
the rest of us drove in another carriage to his place, about five miles
off. The drive was delightful and his cottage a picture--a little, fat,
fair motherly woman for a wife, with two little chicks, and a lady
friend. They took us down some steps to the Falls, the river Montmerenci
falling 500 feet, and it was very fine, the view being improved by the
figures of our fellow-passengers on the opposite side making struggling
efforts to gain good positions, which we achieved in all ease and
comfort. Then we returned to an excellent luncheon, very pleasantly
diversified to us by Indian corn, which we learned to eat in an
ungraceful but excellent fashion on the cob, blueberry tart and cream.
This was our _third_ substantial meal on Tuesday. Several visitors
called, and among them our fellow-passengers, Mr. Stephen Bourne and his
daughters and two friends, who are also staying here, a gentleman with
three other ladies (two of whom had been on the "Parisian") who said he
had been staying lately with one of them in Cheshire, so I concluded he
was an English-Canadian and said heartily: "That's right, keep up with
the old country. You come to see us and we come to see you." And he
responded graciously, but I heard after that he was a French-Canadian
and R. C., and they are not fond of England, but cling very much to
French ways and customs and are entirely in the hands of their priests.
They are a quiet, moral people, marry very young and have very large
families. It is quite common to hare ten children, and they live at what
we should call a starvation rate; yet they will not go to service,
contribute hardly anything to the revenue, and so the English, who are
the only active and money-making section of the population, are heavily
taxed; of course _I_ speak of the poor and working classes. The
province of Quebec is, therefore, not a favourite one with enterprising
spirits from our shores or from other parts of Canada.

After these visitors were gone, Mr. Price drove me and E---, and the
rest walked, to the "Natural Steps." It was a beautiful spot, the clear
torrent of the river Montmerenci falling in cascades over a curious
formation of layers of stone and steps on either side, with the bright
green _arbor vitae_, which they call cedar, growing above and in
every niche it can find a bit of soil; wild raspberries and strawberries
too, which, alas, were over. We met several of our fellow-passengers,
and we greet one another like long-lost friends. On our return we found
Mrs. Price had cuddled her ailing boy to sleep and could give us some
attention. We had delicious tea and cake (our fourth meal). Mr. Price
comes from Boss, in Herefordshire, and has been twelve years away from
it. He is very nice and intelligent. Her brother owns the Falls and
lives in a pretty cottage near. Edison, the electric light inventor, has
bought the power of these falls for electric purposes. John was thinking
all the time how useful they might be made. We returned to the hotel in
time for John and E--- to dress for the Governor-General's dinner party.
We took a little baggage and Gibson and came here--a dark drive, and we
were shaken to bits in what is justly called a _rockaway_ carriage.
We were met at the door by Mr. Dobell, much to our surprise, for he and
his family had returned unexpectedly from camping out, as it proved a
failure, and rushed home to receive us. She is handsome, and quite
English in tone and manner, daughter of the Minister of the Interior,
Sir David Macpherson. Mr. Dobell is very bright and pleasant-looking,
the house pretty and comfortable, with large conservatory. We Had a
tremendous supper (our fifth meal) and so I could hardly do justice to
it. I went to bed very tired after this hard day's work and awoke this
morning to find it pouring, so I have been taking advantage of the quiet
to write to you. Dick and Mr. Dobell went to Quebec, and we follow at
three. They hope to have some organ-playing in the Cathedral. Mr. S.
Bourne and his young ladies are also gone, and we are to leave at three
and start at five in the river steamboat for Montreal. Tell Edward and
Lisa, &c., &c., about us. We all thoroughly enjoyed everything yesterday
except that we wanted warmer clothes. They had tremendous heat here
before we arrived, and so every one was advising us to wear light
clothing!--and the weather changed!




LETTER NO. 3


_August 29th, 240, Drummond Street, Montreal._

We left the hospitable Dobells on Tuesday, 26th, took our luggage from
the police station, receiving many bows and much politeness from the
several Canadians in charge and, with about one thousand others, besides
soldiers, went on board a very large steamer--a new experience, for
these river steamers are quite different from anything we see on this
side, even I think, on the Rhine,--the Lansdownes were in it and we saw
something of them. An uncomfortable night, and were glad to reach this,
Wednesday morning, at about eight o'clock. Such a mass of luggage and
people, but as Mr. Angus kindly sent a carriage and man to meet us, I
did very well and arrived safely with all mine.

I drove with Hedley and Miss Angus in the afternoon (there are four
grown-up young ladies) and finally got out at the Queen's Hall, where
the Mayor read an address in French, and after Sir William Thomson had
spoken, John said a few words. There was a great crowd here, and we sang
"God Save the Queen" with enthusiasm. We dined at half-past six and
afterwards the two Misses Angus and Hedley and I drove to the Hall.

Lord and Lady Lansdowne sat on the platform, and after a nice speech
from him, Sir William Thomson introduced John as the new President with
many compliments. Then, dear John, looking so nice, with a clear voice,
read his address, and I am told it was heard even in the gallery at the
end. I liked it extremely, and people seem to think it was very good.
Our party, Evelyn, Dick, &c., sat in the front row, and when John read
one or two passages which he thought would particularly "fetch" me, he
looked with a little twinkle in my direction and of course I twinkled in
return.

[The following account is reprinted from the "Montreal Gazette," August
28th, 1884.]

Everything combined to favour the opening day of the British Association
meeting yesterday. Bright skies overhead, and weather not too warm, and
tempered by a cooling breeze, made what outdoor work had to be done
pleasant and prevented indoor proceedings from being oppressive. Adding
to these conditions the general enthusiasm which prevailed, the presence
of so many notable personages, distinguished in the worlds of science,
of politics, of letters and of mercantile pursuits, and the attendance
of so large a number of the fair sex, who evinced the greatest interest
in the proceedings, and it will be seen that the opening could not have
taken place under more pleasing auspices. Whilst the city in general
showed an extra amount of life and bustle, the interest naturally
centered in the grounds of McGill University, which presented a bright
and lively scene. In the reception room in the William Molson Hall there
was a constant succession of visitors, and the various offices wore a
busy air. In the grounds a new and picturesque effect was made by a
couple of marquees wherein luncheon was served, and the grounds
themselves, the grassy lawns and wooded walks, were the constant resort
of ladies and gentlemen. The morning was spent by the visitors either in
visits to the offices and reception rooms, the arrangement of papers, or
in "doing" the city. At one o'clock the first work of the meeting
commenced in the meeting of the general committee. Subsequently, at half
past four, the visitors were formally welcomed by the mayor and
corporation in the Queen's Hall, which was the scene of a brilliant
gathering, and in the evening the first general meeting of the
Association took place in the same hall, when the representative of the
retiring president resigned the presidential office, which was assumed
by the new president, Lord Rayleigh. Additional interest and distinction
was given to the proceedings yesterday by the presence of His Excellency
the Governor-General and the Marchioness of Lansdowns, and the Right
Hon. Sir John A. Macdonald, Premier of the Dominion. Full reports of all
the meetings and speeches together with other particulars of interest
will be found subjoined.




MEETING OF THE GENERAL COMMITTEE.


A meeting of the general committee of the Association was held in the
James Ferrier Hall, Wesleyan College, at one o'clock yesterday
afternoon, Sir William Thomson presiding.

The minutes of the meeting at Southport were read by the secretary, Rev.
Prof. Bonney, and confirmed.




THE REPORT OF THE COUNCIL.


Capt. Douglas Galton, General Secretary, then read the annual report of
the council, which stated that since the meeting at Southport, Dr. F.
Lindemaun and Dr. Ernst Schroeder had been elected corresponding members
of the Association, and proceeded as follows:--"The present meeting of
the British Association, the fifty-fourth in number, is likely to be
long memorable in its annals, as the first held beyond the limits of the
United Kingdom. It marks a new point of departure, and one probably
never contemplated by the founders of the Association, although not
forbidden by the laws which they drew up. The experiment was doubtless a
hazardous one, but it seems likely to be justified by success, and it
may be hoped that the vigour and vitality gained by new experience may
ultimately compensate for the absence from this meeting of not a few
familiar faces among the older members; there will, however, be as large
a gathering of members of more than one year's standing as is usual at a
successful meeting in Great Britain, and the efforts which have been
made by our hosts to facilitate the coming of members and render their
stay in Canada both pleasant and instructive, call for the warmest
acknowledgment. The inducements offered to undertake the journey were
indeed so great that the council felt that it would be necessary to
place some restriction upon the election of new members, which for many
years past, though not unchecked in theory, has been almost a matter of
course in practice. Obviously these offers of the Canadian hosts of the
British Association were made to its members, not to those on whom they
might operate as an inducement to be enrolled among its members. The
council, therefore, before the close of the Southport meeting, published
the following resolution:--"That after the termination of the present
month (September, 1883), until further notice, new members be only
elected by special resolution of the council." Applications for
admission under these terms were very numerous, and were carefully
sifted by the council. Still, although the council as time progressed
and the number augmented, increased the stringency of their
requirements, it became evident that the newly elected members would
soon assume an unduly large proportion to those of older standing, so
that on May 6th, after electing 130 members under this rule, it was
resolved to make no more elections until the commencement of the
Montreal meeting, when it would be safe to revert to the usual practice.
The details of the arrangements made for the journey have already been
communicated to the members, so that it is needless to make any further
special reference to them, but the council have to acknowledge the great
liberality of the associated cable companies in granting, under certain
restrictions, free ocean telegraphy to the members of the Association
during the meeting. The death of Sir William Siemens has deprived the
Association of one of its most earnest supporters and friends. It was
during his presidency at Southampton that the invitation to Montreal was
accepted, and he was appointed at Southport a vice-president for this
meeting. The council nominated Sir J. D. Hooker a vice-president, but
he was unfortunately obliged, for domestic reasons, to resign the
nomination in the early part of the summer. It has been the custom at
meetings of the Association to invite the attendance of distinguished
men of science from all parts of the world, but the council considered
that on the present occasion it would be well to offer a special welcome
to the American Association (of which also several eminent Canadian men
of science are members); they have accordingly issued an invitation to
the standing committee and fellows of that Association to attend the
meeting at Montreal on the footing of honorary members."

The Report then referred to the fact that the general treasurer had been
prevented from being present at the meeting, and that as the usual
assistant to the general treasurer could not also be present, they had
nominated Admiral Sir Erasmus Ommanney, C.B., F.R.S., as deputy
treasurer, and Mr. Harry Brown, assistant secretary of University
College, London, as financial officer. The Report proceeded to state
that the council had, after consideration, decided to form a separate
section of anthropology, and reported with reference to the resolution
referred to them by the general committee, "That application be made to
the Admiralty to institute a Physical and Biological Survey of Milford
Haven, and the adjacent coast of Pembrokeshire, on the plan followed by
the American Fisheries Commission." They had done so, and had been
informed by the Lords of H. M. Treasury, that they regretted to be
unable to institute such a survey, as the Admiralty had no vessels
available for this service. With regard to the Report of the Committee
of Section A respecting the suppression of four of the seven principal
observatories of the Meteorological Council, and to forward a copy of
the same to the Meteorological Council, they reported that arrangements
had been made, whereby three out of the four observatories relinquished
by the Meteorological Council would be continued, though on a somewhat
different footing. The council also reported that they had sent a
communication to the Executive Committee of the International Fisheries
Exhibition, urging upon that body the appropriation of a sufficient sum
out of the surplus funds remaining in their hands at the close of the
Exhibition, to found a laboratory on the British Coast for the study of
marine zoology; but there did not seem any prospect of such an
appropriation of the surplus funds. The Report then referred to the
Report of the Committee on local scientific societies, and detailed the
alterations which its adoption would make necessary in the rules,
stating that it was proposed to reserve the consideration of this
question by the general Committee for the meeting to be held in London
in November. The Report concluded as follows: "The vacancies in the
council to be declared at the General Committee Meeting in November will
be Lord Rayleigh, who has assumed the presidency, together with the
following who retire in the ordinary course: Mr. G. Darwin, Mr.
Hastings, Dr. Huggins and Dr. Burdon Sanderson, and the council will
recommend for re-election on that occasion the other ordinary members of
council, with the addition of the gentlemen whose names are
distinguished by an asterisk in the following list:--*Abney, Capt. R.
E., Adams, Professor W. G., *Ball, Professor B. S., Bateman, J. F. La
Trobe, Esq., Bramwell, Sir F. Dawkins, Professor W. Boyd, De La Rue, Dr.
Warren, Dewar, Professor J., Evans, Captain Sir F., Flower, Professor W.
H., Gladstone, Dr. J. H., Glaisher, J. W. L., Esq., Godwin-Austen,
Lieut-Col. H. H., Hawkshaw, J. Clarke, Esq., Henrici, Professor 0.,
Hughes, Professor T. McK., Jeffreys, Dr. J. Gwyn, *Moseley, Professor H.
N, *Ommaney, Admiral Sir E, Pengelly, W., Esq., Perkin, W. H., Esq.,
Prestwich, Professor, Sclater-Booth, The Right Hon. George, Sorby, Dr.
H. C., *Temple, Sir R." In accordance with the decision arrived at by
them at Southport, the General Committee will meet on Tuesday, 11th
November, at Three o'clock in the afternoon in the Theatre of the Royal
Institution, Albemarle Street, London, W., for the transaction of the
following business, viz:--To elect the president, officers and council
for 1884-85; to fix the date of meeting for 1885; to appoint the place
of meeting for 1886; and to consider the alteration of rules necessary
to give effect to the recommendation of the Committee on local
scientific societies.

On motion of the Chairman the Report was adopted.




AN ADDRESS FROM THE ROYAL SOCIETY.


The President of the Royal Society, Dr. T. Sterry-Hunt, then read the
following address:--

_To the President and Council of the British Association for the
Advancement of Science._

The Royal Society of Canada greets with cordial welcome the members of
your Association on the occasion of its first visit to the American
continent, and rejoices to find among those who have accepted the
invitation of the citizens of Montreal so many names, renowned as
leaders of scientific research.

The Royal Society of Canada, which is a body recently organized and in
the third year of its existence, includes not only students of natural
history and natural philosophy, who make up together one-half of its
eighty members, but others devoted to the history and the literature of
the two great European races, who are to-day engaged in the task of
building up in North America a new nation under the shelter of the
British flag.

Recognizing the fact that material progress can only be made in
conjunction with advancement in literature and in science, we hail your
visit as an event destined to give a new impulse to the labours of our
own students, believing at the same time that the great problems of
material nature, not less than the social and political aspects of this
vast realm, will afford you subjects for profitable study, and trusting
that when your short visit is over, you will return to your native land
with kindly memories of Canada and a confidence that its growth in all
that makes a people good and great is secured.

T. STERRY HUNT, President,

JOHN GEO. Bourniot, Hon. Secretary.


_Montreal, August 27, 1884._

Dr. Hunt's predecessor in office, the Hon. Dr. CHAUVEAU, followed and
after a few introductory remarks read the address in French.

Sir WILLIAM THOMSON, in replying, said:--I am sure all the members of
the general committee are greatly gratified with the warm welcome
accorded to us in the addresses just delivered on behalf of the two
great divisions of our countrymen in this province, the English and
French races. It is very gratifying to see this cordial unanimity
existing between them, and in the name of the general committee I beg to
express our warmest thanks for these addresses of welcome. (Applause.)

Dr. T. STERRY HUNT said he would now, with their permission, read an
address which had been transmitted by the committee of reception at the
neighbouring town of Chambly, where a memorial tablet was to be placed
at the old fort at that place on Saturday next. The address was as
follows:--

Mr. STERRY HUNT will please do the reception committee at Chambly the
honour to represent them before the members of the British Association
for the advancement of science, and to inform them that at Chambly, on
the 30th instant, at half-past three o'clock, there will be the ceremony
of placing a tablet in the old Fort Chartrain, built by France in 1711
against the English, now its allies.

The presence of members of the British Association at this ceremony will
be regarded as an honour by the Canadian people of the shores of the
Richelieu. It will be for them an encouragement, and for our young
country a proof of the interest felt in Europe for all that belongs to
history, whether shown in the preservation of old monuments, or in the
placing therein of memorial tablets.

Chambly was long a military post occupied at times by men famous alike
in French and English annals. It is also the birthplace of Albam, the
famous Canadian singer, and here are buried the remains of de Salaberry,
the Canadian Leonidas, in whose honour a statue has lately been erected.
Mr. Sterry Hunt will please present the respects of the Chambly
committee to the members of the British Association while accepting them
for himself, and will believe me his most obedient servant,

J. O. Dies, Secretary-General of the Committee.


_Chambly, August 25,1884._

On Saturday next, Dr. Hunt explained there would be an excursion at 2
p.m. to Chambly from the city. He knew that other excursions had been
arranged for to Quebec and elsewhere, and he had no wish to interfere
with these arrangements, but those who chose to avail themselves of his
cordial invitation would find a visit to Chambly exceedingly
interesting.

Sir WM. THOMPSON returned cordial thanks to Mr. Dion for his kind
invitation, and felt sure many members of the association would avail
themselves of it.




THE CIVIC RECEPTION.


Fully an hour before the time for presenting the civic address crowds
of people began to ascend the stairs leading to the Queen's Hall, and by
half-past four o'clock the hall was filled to overflowing, and when the
mayor and aldermen, with the members of the British Association put in
an appearance, they were heartily received by the audience. His Worship,
Mayor Beaudry (who wore his chain of office) presided, and was supported
on the right by Sir William Thomson (representing the retiring
president, Prof. Cayley), and the Right Hon. Lord Rayleigh
(president-elect), and on his left by the Premier of the Dominion, the
Right Honourable Sir John A. Macdonald. Amongst others present--were Sir
Lyon Playfair, Capt. Douglas Galton, Prof. Henry E. Boscoe, Sir James
Douglass, Prof. Chandler Roberts, Mr. W. Terlawney Saunders, Prof.
Glaisher, Hon. C. W, Freemantle, Capt. Bedford Pim, Rev. Prof. Bonney,
Sir Richard Temple, Dr. Alexander, Principal Dawson, C.M.G., Prof.
Cheriman, Mr. M. H. Gault, M.P., Hon. J. S. C. Wurtele, Dr. Persiford
Frazer, U. S. Consul-General Stearns, Andrew Robertson, and the
following members of the city corporation: Aldermen Grenier, Fairbairn,
Laurent, Stevenson, Rainville, Donovan, Beauchamp, Archibald, Robert,
Prefontaine, Holland, Tansey, Beausoleil, Mount, Rolland, Hood, J. C.
Wilson, Thos. Wilson, Mooney, Jeannotte, Farrell and Genereux; Mr.
Charles Glackmeyer, city clerk; Mr. Perceval W. St. George, city
surveyor; Mr. J. F. D. Black, city treasurer; and Mr. H. Paradis, chief
of police. Mr. W. R Spence, organist of the Church of St. John the
Evangelist, presided at the organ.

His Worship the Mayor opened the proceedings by reading the following:--


ADDRESS.

_To the President and Members of the British Association for the
Advancement of Science_:

GENTLEMEN,--It is with no common pleasure that we, the mayor and
aldermen of Montreal welcome to this city and to Canada, so
distinguished a body as the British Association for the Advancement of
Science. Already indeed, not only here, but through the length and
breadth of the land, that welcome has been pronounced with a heartiness
to which we are proud to add the confirmation of formal expression.

During the last two years, and especially since the acceptance of our
invitation made it a certainty, your coming amongst us has been looked
forward to as an event of deep and manifold importance to the Dominion.

Aware of the devotion with which the Association had for more than half
a century, applied itself to the object indicated in its name, and
knowing that its present membership comprised the most eminent of those
noble students and investigators who have made the search after truth
the aim of their lives, we could not fail to perceive that Canada would
gain by the presence of observers and thinkers so exact and so
unprejudiced. Nor were we without the hope that in the vast and varied
expanse of territory which constitutes the Dominion, our learned
visitors would meet with features of interest that should be some
compensation for so long and wearisome a journey here in that great
stretch of diversified region between the Atlantic and the Pacific, the
student of almost every branch of science must find something worth
learning whilst for certain sections of the Association there are few
portions of the world in which the explorer is more likely to be
gratified and rewarded.

Throughout this broad domain of ours, rock and herb, forest and prairie,
lake and river, air and soil, with whatever life or whatever relic of
life in past ages, they may severally contain,--afford to the diligent
seeker of knowledge various and ample scope for research. Nor to the
student of man at a social and political being, is there less of
opportunity for acquiring fresh facts and themes for reflection in a
young commonwealth like this.

We flatter ourselves that here you will find a people not unworthy of
the great races from which it has sprung, and that on your return to the
mother land, you will be able to speak with satisfaction, from your own
experience, of our federal system, our resources, our agriculture our
manufactures, our commerce, our institutions of learning, our progress
and our destinies.

You have come and we place our land, ourselves and all we are and have
at your disposal. We bid you a hearty welcome, and in so honouring
ourselves we only ask you to consider yourselves at home, remembering
that you are still on British soil.

In conclusion Mr. President and Gentlemen, we sincerely hope that your
stay in this portion of Her Majesty's Empire may be as happy and as
fruitful to the Association as it is grateful for so many reasons to the
people of Montreal and of the Dominion.

J L BEAUDRY,

Mayor

CHAS GLACKMEYER,

City Clerk


Sir WM THOMSON acknowledged in cordial terms the hearty welcome
expressed in this address. The Association, he continued, when it
commenced the experiment of being a peripatetic Association for the
advancement of science, made an experiment which many considered of a
doubtful character. It was urged that although zeal for a new thing
might carry the Association on for a few years successfully, the success
would cease with the novelty. This prophecy had not been fulfilled. On
the contrary, the experiment had been crowned with brilliant success. He
did not think the founders of the Association, fifty-two years ago, when
they drew up the wise plan and regulations of the society which have
since continued in force almost without change, imagined, for a moment,
the possibility of a meeting being held on this side of the Atlantic.
(Applause) Their meeting here was strictly within the letter of the law
and wholly in accordance with the spirit by which the British
Association was directed, and that was to carry through the British
Empire any advancement in science that could be promoted by the
existence of the Association. At the outset, when the body was formed,
some fifty years ago, the mathematical section, of which he was now
president, held that it was impossible for a steamboat to cross the
Atlantic. As president of that section, he ought to be ashamed that it
had adopted such a conclusion. The business of the Association was to
advance science and never to stand still. Many misgivings had been felt
as to the success of the experiment of visiting this side of the water,
but none were felt as to the kindness with which they would be received.
Nobody doubted that the warmest welcome would be given by their
countrymen on this side, and none knew better how to give a warm
welcome. With respect to his own feelings, he felt most deeply the
privilege and honour of filling the position be held, but it was
accompanied with one regret and that was the absence of Professor
Cayley, who would have been in his place had not circumstances compelled
him to remain on the other side. He concluded by again expressing his
warm thanks and those of the Association for the magnificent welcome
given them.

Lord RAYLEIGH, as president-elect, joined in the expression of thanks
for the hearty welcome. We all, he said, felt great interest in
visiting, many of us for the first time, this extensive and diversified
land, which has become the borne of so many of our fellow countrymen.
Before the day is out I am afraid the tones of my voice will have become
only too familiar to you, and I will therefore say nothing more than
that we most cordially reciprocate the sentiments expressed in the
address presented to us.

Sir JOHN A. MICDONALD was then requested to address the meeting. As he
came forward, looking as vigorous and cheery as if time had consented to
roll backwards in his favour, the enthusiasm and delight of the audience
found vent in a perfect ovation of applause. On all sides among our
visitors, as well as our own citizens, were heard expressions of genial
interest on the one hand and of delight on the other. Sir John gained
the heart of the audience at once, and, after the applause had subsided,
said:--I really do not know in what capacity I am called upon to address
this audience, whether it is as a scientist or as a Canadian or as a
member of the government. I cannot well say--I will say, however--I come
here as a scientist. I am not yet settled in my own mind to which
section I will attach myself. I think I will wait awhile, use my Scotch
discretion, hear all that has to be said on all those questions before
finally deciding. (Laughter.) We all cordially join in the sentiments
expressed in the address from the corporation. It was a great pleasure
to us all in Canada to know there was a possibility of the British
Association extending their visits to Canada. I first thought, when the
proposition was made, it was asking too much, but the cordial response
made and the large attendance, showed these fears were not well founded.
I am glad the weather is fine, the country is prosperous, the fields are
groaning with products, and altogether we put on our best clothes to do
honour to those gentlemen who have honoured Canada (applause and
laughter), and I really hope they will not be disappointed. I can assure
them, if they wanted the assurance, the people of Canada are proud and
grateful for their visit. If there are any shortcomings among us it is
because we are a young country; but we will do our best any way and you
must take the will for the deed. (Applause.) I am sure I express the
sentiments of all in giving the Association a most hearty greeting to
the Dominion of Canada. (Loud applause.) The national anthem was then
sung by the entire audience, and on three cheers being given for the
Queen, the meeting dispersed.




THE GENERAL MEETING.


The first general meeting of the Association was held in the Queen's
Hall at eight o'clock last evening, the hall being crowded to its utmost
capacity, many having to stand, while others were unable to obtain
admission. Sir William Thomson occupied the chair, and beside him on the
platform were His Excellency the Governor General and Lady Lansdowne and
suite, the Right Hon. Sir John Macdonald, and the president-elect, the
Right Hon. Lord Rayleigh.

His EXCELLENCY THE GOVERNOR-GENERAL was first introduced, and delivered
the following address of welcome:--

Lord Rayleigh, ladies and gentlemen,--I am given to understand that it
would be in accordance with the rules under which the business of the
British Association is carried on, that the proceedings of to-day should
commence with the vacation of the president's chair and by the
installation of the president-elect in the place which he will so
honourably fill. The occasion, however, which has brought us together is
so remarkable, and will be so memorable, not only in the annals of the
Association, but in the history of the Dominion, that I believe you will
pardon the slight irregularity of which, as a member of the Association,
I am guilty, in rising to address a few words to this distinguished
audience. The occasion, Lord Rayleigh, is the first upon which the
British Association has held a meeting beyond the narrow limits of the
United Kingdom. Such a departure from the usage which you have hitherto
observed, though an inauguration, is certainly not inconsistent with the
objects of the Association or with the designs of its founders; its
earliest records contain the statement that it was instituted for the
promotion of intercourse between those who cultivated science in
different parts, not merely of the British Islands, but of the British
Empire. I question whether any means of promoting this intercourse could
have been discovered more effectual than the holding of your annual
meeting in one of the great cities of this colony, and my object in now
addressing you is to express at the very outset the satisfaction with
which the people, not only of Montreal, but of the whole Dominion, hail
your arrival here and to welcome you in their name to these shores.
(Loud applause.) Perhaps you will allow me to state my own belief that
if you were to select for your place of meeting a spot within the
colonial empire of England, you could not have selected a colony which
better deserved the distinction, either in respect of the warmth of its
affection for the mother country, or in respect of the desire of its
inhabitants for the diffusion of knowledge and of culture. (Applause) In
a young country such pursuits must be carried on in the face of some
difficulty and of the competition of that material activity which must
to a great extent engross the time and absorb the attention of a rapidly
developing community such as this. We may, however, claim for Canada
that she has done her best, that she has above all spared no pains to
provide for the interest of science in the future, and that amongst
those who have done scientific work within the Dominion are men known
and respected far beyond the bounds of their own nation. In this
connection I cannot deny myself the pleasure of referring to the honours
which have been conferred upon Sir William Dawson within the last few
days. (Loud and long continued applause.) He is, unless I am
misinformed, more responsible than any one person for the visit of the
Association, and I feel sure that I shall command the acquiescence of
all those who have worked in the cause of Canadian culture when I say
that we regard the knighthood which Her Majesty has bestowed upon him as
an appropriate recognition of his distinguished services, and as an
opportune compliment to Canadian science. (Applause.) But the
significance of this meeting is far greater than it would be if its
results were to be measured merely by the addition which it will make to
the scientific wealth of the empire. When we find a society which for
fifty years has never met outside the British Islands transferring its
operations to the Dominion--when we see several hundred of our best
known Englishmen, who have acquired a public reputation, not only in the
scientific, but in the political and the literary world, arriving here
mingling with our citizens, and dispersing in all directions over this
continent; when we see in Montreal the bearers of such names as
Rayleigh, Playfair, Frankland, Burdon, Sanderson, Thomson, Roscoe,
Blanford, Moseley, Lefroy, Temple, Bramwell, Tylor, Galton, Harcourt and
Bonney, we feel that one more step has been taken towards the
establishment of that close intimacy between the mother country and her
offspring, which both here and at home all good citizens of the empire
are determined to promote. (Loud applause.) The desire for such closer
intimacy is one of the most remarkable and one of the best features in
the political life of the present day. Our periodical literature, our
proceedings in parliament, the public discussions which have recently
taken place and in which some of our most prominent Canadians have taken
a part, all indicate a remarkable awakening to the importance of the
noblest colonial empire which the world has ever seen, and a desire to
draw closer the ties of sympathy and allegiance which bind us
reciprocally. (Applause.) And, ladies and gentlemen, whatever difficulty
there may be in the way of a revision of the political relations of the
mother country and her colonies, it is satisfactory to reflect that
there are none in the way of such an alliance as that which you are
establishing to-day between the culture of the old world and that of the
new. (Applause.) In the domain of science there can be no conflict of
local and imperial interests--no constitution to revise--no embarrassing
considerations of foreign and domestic policy. We are all partners and
co-heirs of a great empire, and we may work side by side without
misgiving, and with a certainty that every addition to the common fund
of knowledge and mutual enlightenment is an unmixed advantage to the
whole empire. (Loud applause.) I believe, Lord Rayleigh, that your visit
will be fraught with far reaching advantages both to hosts and guests.
We shall gain in acquaintance with our visitors, and in the publicity
which their visit will give to the resources and attractions of this
country. We believe that it will be more justly appreciated in
proportion as it becomes more widely known and more thoroughly
understood. (Applause.) Sympathy, as a distinguished Canadian has lately
written, begets knowledge, and knowledge again adds to sympathy. You,
ladies and gentlemen, who have lately left the mother country, will gain
in the opportunity which will be afforded you of studying the life of a
people younger than your own but engaged in the solution of many
problems similar to those which engage our attention at home, and
observing the conduct of your own race amidst the surroundings of
another hemisphere. On every side you will find objects of interest. Our
political system, the working of federation, the arrangements of the
different provinces for the education of our youth, our railways pushed
across this continent with an enterprise which has never been surpassed
by the oldest and largest communities--(loud applause)--our forests,
our geology, our mineral resources, our agriculture in all its different
phases ranging from the quiet homesteads and skilful cultivation of the
older provinces to the newly reclaimed prairies of the North-west, which
we expect to yield us this season a surplus of from six to nine millions
of bushels, the history and characteristics of our native races, and the
manner in which we have dealt with them--all these will afford you
opportunities of study which few other portions of the globe could
present in such variety. (Applause.) Of the facilities which will be
afforded to you and of the pains which have been taken to render your
explorations easy and agreeable, I need not speak. Some of you are aware
that a distinguished member of an assembly to which you and I, Lord
Rayleigh, have both the honour to belong, has lately been cautioning the
English public against the dangers of legislation by picnic. (Loud
applause.) I have heard that in some quarters misgivings have been
expressed. We too should be exposed to similar danger, and lest the
attractions which the British Association is offered here should
conflict with its more strictly scientific objects. These are probably
_rumores senum severiorum_, and I will only say of them, if there
is any ground for such apprehensions, you must remember that hospitality
is an instinct with our people, and that it is their desire that you
should see and learn a great deal, and that you should see and learn it
in the pleasantest manner possible. (Applause.) I have only one word
more to say. I wish to express the pleasure with which I see in this
room representatives, not only of English and Continental and Canadian
science, but also many distinguished representatives of that great
people which, at a time when the relations of the mother country and her
colonies were less wisely regulated than at present, ceased to be
subjects of the British Crown, but did not cease to become our kinsmen.
Many of you will pass from these meetings to the great re-union to be
held a few days hence at Philadelphia, where you will be again reminded
that there are ties which bind together not only the constituent parts
of the British empire, but the whole of the British race--ties of mutual
sympathy and good-will which such intercourse will strengthen and which,
I believe, each succeeding decade will draw more closely and firmly
together. (Applause.) I have now only to apologize for having intervened
in your proceedings. I feel that what I have said would have come better
from the lips of a Canadian. Others will, however, have ample
opportunities for supplementing both by word and deed the shortcomings
of which I may have been guilty. It was my duty--and I have much
pleasure in discharging it--as the representative of the Crown in this
part of the empire to bid you in the name of our people a hearty welcome
to the Dominion. (Loud and long continued applause.)

Sir WM. THOMSON, in responding, said:--You will allow me, in the first
place, to offer my warmest thanks to His Excellency the Governor-General
for coming among us this evening, and for the very kind and warm welcome
which he has offered to the British Association, on the part of the
Dominion. Your Excellency, it devolves upon me as representing Professor
Cayley, the president of the British Association, to do what I wish he
were here to do himself, and which it would have been a well-earned
pleasure for him to do--to introduce to you Lord Rayleigh as his
successor in the office of President of the British Association.
Professor Cayley has devoted his life to the advancement of pure
mathematics. It is indeed peculiarly appropriate that he should be
followed in the honourable post of president by one who has done so much
to apply mathematical power in the various branches of physical science
as Lord Rayleigh has done. In the field of the discovery and
demonstration of natural phenomena Lord Rayleigh has, above all others
enriched physical science by the application of mathematical analysis;
and when I speak of mathematics you must not suppose mathematics to be
harsh and crabbed. (Laughter.) The Association learned last year at
Southport what a glorious realm of beauty there was in pure mathematics.
I will not, however, be hard on those who insist that it is harsh and
crabbed. In reading some of the pages of the greatest investigators of
mathematics one is apt to become wearied, and I must confess that some
of the pages of Lord Rayleigh's work have taxed me most severely, but
the strain was well repaid. When we pass from the instrument which is
harsh and crabbed to those who do not give themselves the trouble to
learn it thoroughly, to the application of the instrument, see what a
splendid world of light, beauty and music is opened to us through such
investigations as those of Lord Rayleigh. His book on sound is the
greatest piece of mathematical investigation we know of applied to a
branch of physical science. The branches of music are mere developments
of mathematical formulas, and of every note and wave in music the
equation lies in the pages of Lord Rayleigh's book. (Laughter and
applause.) There are some who have no ear for music, but all who are
blessed with eyes can admire the beauties of nature, and among those one
which is seen in Canada frequently, in England often, in Scotland
rarely, is the blue sky. (Laughter) Lord Rayleigh's brilliant piece of
mathematical work on the dynamics of blue sky is a monument to the
application of mathematics to a subject of supreme difficulty, and on
the subject of refraction of light he has pointed out the way towards
finding all that has to be known, though he has ended his work by
admitting that the explanation of the fundamentals of the reflection and
refraction of light is still wanting and is a subject for the efforts of
the British Association for the Advancement of Science. But there is
still another subject, electricity and the electric light, and here
again Lord Rayleigh's work is fundamental, and one may hope from the
suggestions it contains that electricity may yet be put upon the level
of ordinary mechanics, and that the electrician may be able to weigh out
electric quantities as easily and readily as a merchant could a quantity
of tea or sugar. (Applause.) It remains for me only to fulfil the
commission which Professor Cayley has entrusted to me of expressing his
great regret that his engagements in England prevented his being with
us, and in his name to vacate the chair of president of the Association
and to ask Lord Rayleigh to take his place as President for 1884.
(Applause.)

[_Lord Rayleigh then delivered the Presidential Address, a copy of
which is appended to this work._]

Lord Rayleigh was loudly applauded at the conclusion of his address.

HON. DR. CHAVEAU in an eloquent speech in French proposed a vote of
thanks to Lord Rayleigh for the interesting sketch he had given of
modern science. In this scientific review Lord Rayleigh had also
displayed great literary ability. The reunion to-day of the British
Association was significant in the sense that it extended the operations
of the society to all parts of the British Empire, so that while on the
other side the question of a federation of the British Empire was being
raised, the British Association had taken the lead in its sphere by
casting out the roots of a scientific federation. In this connection he
spoke of the work the Royal Society was doing in Canada. He was glad to
see that Lord Rayleigh did not hold extreme views as to the elimination
of classical studies from our schools, for he believed that in those
stores of antiquity our modern mind found a great deal of its strength,
and were this study abolished our mental grasp and vigour would be
greatly lessened. What Canada required was the greater development of
our universities. In this way would science be most benefited, for we
would have a greater number of men able to devote themselves entirely to
the study of scientific subjects. He expressed the pleasure he felt at
the honour of knighthood conferred on Principal Dawson, an honour in
which the whole Canadian people felt pride, and concluded amidst great
applause.

Mr. HUGH MCLENNAN in seconding the resolution said the very interesting
address which Lord Rayleigh had given them was not only a source of
pleasure to the audience, but gave them an adequate idea of the wide
field of knowledge and research opened by those who devoted themselves
to different scientific pursuits. The presence of so many men devoted to
scientific pursuits in our midst could not fail to give an impetus to
the study of science in this country. We had not many scientific men,
owing principally to the fact that the people who settled here had given
their attention to material pursuits, but a new era was now opening. The
worthy chief of the government must be gratified at the success of his
wise policy in encouraging this movement, which could not fail to be of
great profit to Canadians, and he felt sure that no vote would be more
heartily given than the vote of thanks to Lord Rayleigh, which he had
much pleasure in seconding.

Sir Wm Thomson put the motion, which was adopted unanimously amidst loud
applause.

Lord Rayleigh returned thanks for the honour done him, and the meeting
adjourned until Friday next, when Professor Ball will deliver a lecture.

       *       *       *       *       *

It was not very surprising that after all this excitement I had a very
bad night and awoke quite ill Thursday morning, remained all day in bed
nursing and starving, and could not, therefore, go to two afternoon
parties for which we had invitations, nor to the grand evening reception
at the college. This morning I am feeling quite well, and it is pouring
with rain.


_Friday Evening_.--After luncheon Dr. P. Smith called and went
with me to Section A, but we were too late to hear John's paper--He told
me that he and E--- start for Quebec to-night after a lecture on "Dust,"
and stay at the Lansdownes for the festivities there (we three have
settled not to go), and return Sunday evening. We went then to Section B
to hear something of Chemistry, and to the Vicars Boyle's at the Windsor
Hotel, and found her at home. I have had a letter asking us all to go to
the Macpherson's at Toronto. Hedley and I called on the McClennan's
(Dick's hosts) and found her to be a nice clever woman, with seven sons
and two daughters. Mrs. Stephen had called in my absence and waited some
time to see me, and left a message for us to drink tea there Sunday, but
I shall probably be occupied elsewhere. Dick went to see the Victoria
Bridge to-day and dines here. Mr. Angus has been telling us delightful
accounts of some of the new routes through the Rocky Mountains down to
British Columbia, which the Canadian Pacific Railway will take, and
which will be finished by the spring of next year. Their surveyor, Mr.
Van Horn, has just returned from an exploration, and gave very curious
details in answer to Professor G. Ramsay's questions (brother of Sir
James Ramsay). Mr. Van Horn says the mountains sheer up eight to eleven
thousand feet; glaciers are eighteen to twenty miles long; trees two
hundred and fifty feet high and thirty in circumference. They have only
to cut one down and it makes a capital bridge at once. He told us a
curious story of a Mr. Rogers, who started with a young engineer to find
a pass for the railroad over the Rocky mountains which would, on its
discovery, make him famous. After their six days' provisions were all
exhausted, Mr. Carroll, the young engineer, said: "It is all very well
for you, but what shall _I_ gain by risking my life and going on?"
"Well," said Mr. Rogers, "let us go to that high plateau and think."
While there, he decided to go on, upon which Mr. Carroll again
expostulated. Mr. Rogers then exclaimed: "You see all these magnificent
peaks, which probably no human eye has seen before--now the grandest of
these shall be named after you if I succeed." Just then a caribou went
past. They gave chase and he took them nine miles into a valley where
they did not find _him_ but _did_ find a _cache_ of
food--and then the _pass_! And the highest mountain is called Mount
Carroll at this day. Mr. Angus does not encourage me much to go to the
Rocky Mountains, on the ground of fatigue and hardships.


_Wednesday, September 2nd_--I must bring up my journal to this
date. On Saturday there were no sections. John and E--- Lansdownes and
many others went to Quebec. Owing to showers of rain the festivities
there were rather a failure. Miss Angus drove H--- and me to Mount
Royal, where we had a splendid view; Dick walked up. We then went to the
market, and saw there all sorts of new vegetables, fruits, and fish. The
melons here are delicious, and we have had buckwheat cakes, and rice
cakes, and sweet potatoes, and blueberries. The living here is very
good, and nothing can be more comfortable than we are; but the flies are
sometimes an annoyance, and the darkness of the rooms--which are kept
dark to prevent their getting in. Saturday afternoon Dick, H--- and I
went to see La Chine by rail to the steamer, and then down the rapids,
which were less dangerous looking than we expected. A violent
thunder-storm came on, and in the middle of it we got into the whirlpool
of the rapids, and then a fiery red sun broke out among a mass of dense
black clouds; a great fire appeared also near the banks of the river,
and all this combined, produced very striking effects. We met on the
steamer Mr. George Darwin and his Bride--a charming looking American
girl--he looks already much better and happier.


_Sunday_.--Miss A---, H---, and I went to the cathedral, a full
simple service and good sermon from Mr. Champion. In the afternoon I
went with Dick to a musical service at St. James' Church--such a sermon!
from a man who nearly wriggled himself out of the pulpit; he came from
Norwood, I heard. _Monday_.--We went in the afternoon to a party at
Mrs. Redpath's; her son, "now gone to his home above," she said, had
known one of mine at Cambridge. It is a pretty place, on a hill near
this, and a good many people there; it got very damp after sunset. We
none of us went to an evening party going on at Mrs. Gault's, being too
tired. Mr. C--- called early and went with me to sections; John joined
me, and we saw and heard Captains Ray and Greely of Arctic fame. They
say he (Greely) and his living companions saved themselves from
starvation by eating their dead ones--a dreadful alternative, but I
don't think they were to blame; it didn't agree with him, for he looks
horribly ill, poor man! In the afternoon we all went to see the Indian
game of La Crosse played between twelve Montrealists and twelve Indians.
It is pretty and exciting, something between lawn tennis and football--I
could have watched it for hours! we were all comfortably seated in
places of honour on a covered stand, which partly accounts for my
enjoyment. After this we went to tea with Mr. and Mrs. G. Stephens, and
there with John and E--- we finally settled with Mr. Stephens to go by
Canadian Pacific Railway to the north-west; Mr. Stephens offered us a
private car, provisioned, &c.; we take _his_ to Toronto, and stay
there with Sir David and Lady Macpherson. This invitation is the result
of an introduction I had from a friend in England. Several invites have
come from Philadelphia and New York. I sent a telegram to you yesterday,
but according to the rules of the Company (who allow us to send free,
subject to these conditions), it must first go to 90, O--- G---; you
will write next to New York, and I will give directions there respecting
all letters. Please tell Edward at T. P. and Mary.


_Wednesday_.--I went to Sections for last time; in afternoon to
the closing meeting of British Association, when they all butter one
another; the buttering of John was, of course, very nice and justifiable
Sir William Dawson said among other things that John was to be loved and
admired as a man as well as a scientist. He certainly looks
gentlemanlike and sweet, and though nervous, he always expresses himself
well; he and others received the honour of D.C.L. from the McGill
University here. I forgot to say that on Tuesday evening there was a
grand reception by the civic authorities at the skating rink, a very
large hall, where we paraded up and down, and the young ones danced
(Hedley with Miss Angus), and then I sat in a state gallery with E---
and other grandees. I cannot say I was struck with the beauty of the
company. I made acquaintance with Captain Greely--he does not look any
better, poor man, but has a nice expression. Wednesday evening we went
to a pretty party at Mr. Donald Smith's, the richest man in Canada, and
so kind and simple; he had a ball-room built at a day or two's notice,
and tent for supper, and Chinese lanterns lighted up the garden, &c. It
was a lovely night with full moon, and I was very glad to walk outside,
for the heat was very great. Mr. D. Smith asked me to "Silver Heights,"
his place at Winnipeg. H--- and Dick are both rather unwell to-day, and
I hear poor Mr. Walter Brown is dying. I am well enough now. It is
extremely hot, but there is always air. John has shirked the Toronto
function, and also the American Association at Philadelphia--some of the
B. A. are starting there soon. We go alone to Toronto, and also to
Winnipeg and the Rocky Mountains. Miss Becker and Mrs. Hallett called to
see me, and I signed a memorial of thanks to Sir John Macdonald (the
Premier of Canada), for proposing Women's Suffrage here.




THE AMERICAN ASSOCIATION


The fact that the British Association meets this year in Canada gives
unusual interest to the meeting of the American Association for the
Advancement of Science at Philadelphia, from September 4 to 11. After
the Montreal meeting those who feel inclined can make their way
leisurely to Philadelphia where it is evident from the information
before us, they will meet with a warm reception. On the Friday evening,
September 5, after the address of the retiring president (Professor C.
A. Young, of New Jersey) a general reception will be tendered by the
citizens and ladies of Philadelphia to the members of the British and
American Associations, and the ladies accompanying them. The British
Association has been cordially invited, both by the American Association
to take part in the proceedings, and by the local committee representing
the citizens of Philadelphia, to accept the warm welcome which will be
tendered them during the joint session. The local committee has, indeed,
been divided into a number of subcommittees for the sole purpose of
rendering the stay of their visitors agreeable It will, therefore, only
be courteous on the part of Britons who intend to be present at the
American meeting to comply with the committee's request, and send their
names, together with the number of ladies and gentlemen in their
parties, as early as possible, to Dr. Persifor Frazer, 201, South Fifth
street, Philadelphia. During the week occupied by the session there will
be a number of receptions, entertainments, and excursions, and a day
will be set apart for the examination of the International Electrical
Exhibition, to be held at Philadelphia under the auspices of the
Franklin Institute, and commencing September 2. By an arrangement
between the Canadian and United States Trunk lines, members of the
British Association will be conveyed between Montreal and Philadelphia
at specially low fares, while the hotel charges at the latter city
during the meeting are not expected to exceed three dollars a day. We
believe the number who have already promised to be at the Montreal
meeting is about seven-hundred and fifty, so that with those who will go
without promising, added to the many Canadian and United States
scientists who are sure to be present, the meeting is likely to be in
numbers more than an average one.




Letter No. 4.


_September 17th, Toronto, The "Chestnuts."_

My beloved Mother.--I forgot to mention your birthday when I last wrote,
but you know how glad I am that you were born! And how much I prize
every year that is added to your life; and now as this will find you at
dear Mary's, please give her my fond love and best wishes for this day,
and I shall drink her health to-day, and call upon my sons to do the
same. I posted my last letter at Montreal on Thursday; Dick was quite
ill that day, and after seeing him twice and shopping, I bid good-bye to
Mr. Angus, who went to New York, and then Miss Angus drove me to see
poor Mrs. Walter Brown, whose husband was dying at the Hospital. I sent
my card in and she asked to see me. I did not know her much, but it was
very touching, and I felt my heart quite drawn to the poor young woman,
who came out with her husband on a pleasure trip, and now has to leave
him buried in a far land. He got typhoid fever, and inflammation of the
lungs, and was lying unconscious on a hospital bed, while she sobbed on
my shoulder, and said "Oh what shall I do? what shall I do?" I asked her
if she had any difficulty about money matters, but she said Captain
Douglas Galton had called and kindly arranged everything for her with
one of our kind hosts at Montreal. Her father was coming out to her as
fast as he could, but could not be at New York till the 12th, and her
poor husband died that night, and was buried yesterday. After this,
which upset me much, I went to the Stephens' and met John and E--- and
told them, and John went off also to see Mrs. Brown, for Mr. Brown had
been a friend of his. The Stephens' house is very gorgeous, and full of
beautiful satin-wood walls, and the staircase finely carved mahogany.
Mr. Angus' house, too, has much beautiful carved wood about it, but the
houses are kept so dark on account of the heat and flies, that one can
hardly see well enough to appreciate these beauties. Excepting in this
respect, and the amount of carved wood, the style is very like the
houses of the middle class of well-to-do men in Scotland.

 _Friday_.--I got up at six, and walked to see Dick, and found him
better, and he arranged, if well enough, to follow us to Toronto; then
we breakfasted and all the family were up to see us off, and we joined
John and E--- at the station and arranged ourselves in the Directors'
car (Canadian Pacific Railway), a drawing-room with beds (sofas),
dining-room and table in centre, a little kitchen, private bedroom, and
two lavatories. We had a very hot and dusty journey but were otherwise
comfortable, and arrived at Ottawa about twelve. John and E--- went off
to lunch with Lady Melgund at Rido, but as she did not know we were
coming I was not invited, and so Hedley and I lunched in our car, and
then drove to lionize the Claudiere Falls, where the Ottawa River falls
about two hundred feet. The quantity of wood piled about is amazing
(lumber they call it) and it chokes up and destroys the effect of the
river, but it is not in itself ugly, for they arrange it so beautifully
and the colouring is bright. Then we drove to the Government buildings,
and there I was agreeably surprised by the beautiful view, not so grand
as Quebec certainly, but very fine--the Ottawa, with headlands, well
wooded, frequently breaking the line of the river, and the far reach of
country with blue mountains in the background, and then the air so
deliciously sweet and pure, and reviving. We returned there again in the
afternoon, and sat reading till half-past seven, when we returned to our
small house and John and E---, and the conductor gave us a capital
dinner--champagne and all sorts of good things, and we all enjoyed it.
Then we chatted and played whist, and then to bed. Hedley and I in the
drawing-room, and John and E--- in small room, the maids in dining-room.
I can't say I slept well for they moved our car once, causing our
conductor to storm at them for their impertinence, and the arrival and
departure of various trains and fog signals, &c., were not calculated to
favour one's slumbers! Hedley declares that a fog signal in the morning
did not awake me, but he slept through all. About twelve, Dick arrived
from Montreal, much better, and our car was fastened to the train and on
we went to Toronto. We all tried to read, but oh! the shaking, and dust,
and heat were overpowering; still it was interesting to see what
appeared a primitive country with forests half burned, with stations at
"cities" consisting of apparently two or three wooden houses in the
wood--I say apparently, for Sir D. Macpherson told me there were
splendid farms near the railway. Sometimes we saw a pretty lake with
park-like scenery around, and we thought "here we could make a pretty
country place." At ten o'clock Saturday night we arrived at Toronto, and
Sir David Macpherson and his carriage were waiting for us, and it was so
delightful to drive in an open carriage with a lovely moon shining and
the sweet, cool air refreshing us, that we were very sorry the drive was
so short. Lady M--- and her daughter, Miss M---, only in their house,
which seems like an English one in the style of arrangements--servants
and conservatories, and greenhouses, &c., and my bedroom is furnished
like a Scotch one, full of pretty quilts and muslin covers, and odds and
ends. I was delighted to find myself between two very fine sheets, and
slept like a top. Evelyn had a headache and did not get up or go to
church. We drove to the nearest and had a nice service and fair sermon
from a Mr. de Barr, son of a Canadian Judge; Dick, Miss, M---, and I
stayed to Holy Communion, and I was struck with the remarkable number of
young people who remained. After luncheon I had a long talk with Sir
David. He says we are quite wrong about free trade: as the world is, it
should be fair trade, or England will continue to lose, as she is now
losing, every year. The Canadians are obliged to have Protection on
account of the United States, who would send their manufactured goods by
English vessels and so ruin Canadian workshops. No country can grow and
prosper which only produces the raw article of food, &c. Land alone
cannot make a people rich or great; he thinks the Conservative party are
not half, active or energetic enough, and we must have workmen orators
stumping all over the country to reach their own class, or we shall lose
all influence with those who will really be the ruling power. Here, he
says, the Conservatives are two to one in the House of Commons; the
Radicals here abuse their country, and try to hinder and injure all the
enterprise which would enlarge its borders and bring emigrants to take
possession, and do all they can to lower it in the estimation of
outsiders, in hopes that if things come to smash they might have a
chance of a reign of power. Doesn't this remind one of some people in
our own country? Radicals are called "grits" here, and they say you can
recognize a "grit" when you see him, for though they are not at all from
one class or one industry, they have heads that might betoken a sojourn
in a penitentiary!


_Monday, September 8th_.--We did not go anywhere last evening but
strolled about the garden. Mr. Brand, son of the late Speaker, Mr.
Morris, member of the Senate, and another man, dined. Mr. Morris was
Governor of Manitoba. He said in the year 1870 Winnipeg was a little
wild village. Now, when I asked him about buying a few things at Toronto
for the Rocky Mountains expedition, he exclaimed "Oh! wait until you get
to Winnipeg, you can get everything there!" He described a ball he had
given to some royalties (I forget which) and how he had to scour the
country for three hundred miles round to get provisions enough for the
supper, in the year 1874. In my youth I remember reading of Winnipeg,
Fort William and Lake Superior as the outposts of the Hudson Bay
Company, and how travellers, trappers, &c., endured all manner of
hardships, and crossed hikes with Indians carrying the canoes from lake
to lake, and guiding them through endless swamps and rocky bills, until
half-frozen and starved they arrived quite exhausted at these distant
forts. Now we travel by rail in a private car, and Mr. Donald Smith has
a country house near Winnipeg, to which he invited us, and all along
there are "rising cities" which did not exist in any shape five years
ago. When this Canadian Pacific Railway is finished to British Columbia,
and the Atlantic and Pacific are united by it in one, our "Dominion"
then ought to have a splendid future. I don't think I told you about Mr.
Tan Horn's conversation with me at Montreal he said "we are a great deal
too quiet in Canada; we don't puff ourselves enough or make enough of
our advantages and our doings. Why, we live next door to fifty millions
of liars and we must brag or we shall be talked out."


_Monday, later_.--I have just returned from a drive with Miss M---
and Hedley to Toronto, and I am surprised at its size and importance,
and busy look and general air of English prosperity and neatness. Though
Montreal is very pretty, the town is too French and idle-looking to be
impressive--there are numbers of well-kept villas and gardens here. We
are now going out to see a regatta on Lake Ontario and to the island.
Lady M--- said last night, when making arrangements, "I think this will
suit the young people," and I exclaimed "Don't put me among the old
ones, please," so I am going. Sir D--- has gone to Ottawa on Ministerial
business.




Letter No. 5.


_September 12th, Niagara Falls._

On Tuesday we drove with John, and Dr. Wilson showed us over the
University and some pretty sketches he had taken. We got berths on board
the steamer from Owen Sound on Saturday. It is difficult to find out who
manages these things, and we had telegrams going to two or three places
before we could make certain of our berths. At four o'clock all sorts of
people called, being Lady Macpherson's "at home" day, and many on me and
E---. I don't admire Canadian women _especially_! We had fourteen
at dinner and a delightful old Irishman, Chief Justice Haggerty, took me
in. The Lieutenant-Governor, Mr. Robinson, though only the Provincial
Governor, is treated as the representative of the Queen, and goes before
every one. Professor Godwin Smith and his wife were also of the party.
He says (but I am sure he is prejudiced and that it is not true) that
the Canadian Government is just as corrupt and that there is as much
bribery as in the States. Mr. G. Smith differs in opinion with every
one, for the Liberal side would not publish his letters in the papers,
and so he sent them to the Conservatives, and he says they are far more
impartial and just.


_Wednesday, 10th_.--We started here at one o'clock, first by
steamer on Lake Ontario. It was refreshing after being nearly melted at
Toronto, for there was a good breeze. The size of these inland seas
strike one much. We arrived at Niagara about four, and found Mr. Plumb,
John's quondam friend of eighteen years ago, waiting for us in
waggonette, and we drove at once to his pretty house, surrounded by
peach orchards and vines, an untidy but pretty garden. He asked after
Leonard and Mary. Then we had tea, presided over by his pretty daughter
of sixteen, and then the train by his orders stopped for us at his
garden door, and, as he informed me, the last time it did so, was for
the Prince of Wales! We arrived here, Clifton House, the Hotel, by a
picturesque railway journey, and are opposite the American Falls, and
the Horse Shoe Falls are on our right, nearly facing us. Like many other
people, I am rather ashamed to confess I am not as much impressed and
overwhelmed as I ought to be! Dick took a note from Mr. Plumb to his
nephew, Mr. Macklem, and he arranged to call for us at three. In the
morning we drove to the Rapids and Whirlpool, and went up and down all
sorts of queer places in _queerer_ elevators. The river looked
beautiful, a blue-green colour, and the whirlpool is mysteriously
curious, where poor Captain Webb disappeared! In the afternoon the
Macklems took us to the American side on the fine Suspension Bridge, and
then to Prospect Park, Goat Island, and different peeps and vistas of
the Falls and Rapids. I think the immense breadth and volume of water,
with the incessant rush and roar of the river, strike me more than the
actual Falls. We saw some rapids between the islands "Weird Sisters,"
and finally drove to Mr. Macklem's place, surrounded by rapid streams of
the Niagara and very pretty. There seems no end to this river, it has so
many turns and arms and rapids. We had tea (by this time I was nearly
dead), and three dear small boys appeared; one only two and half had a
violin, and he imitated a person playing on it, and made the sounds with
his voice in the most amusing clever way, and laughed so merrily when we
shouted applause. Mr. Macklem drove us home, and after dinner we played
whist in E---'s nice bedroom. This morning I am not well! We have seen
the maids off with the luggage by early rail and boat for Toronto and
follow in afternoon.


_Friday, continuing_.--I was unable to see anything more of
Niagara; the others crossed the ferry. We left at twenty minutes to
five, and owing to the steamer being late on Lake Ontario we did not
reach the Macpherson's till half-past nine. They waited dinner, and we
rushed down, at least I did, just twelve minutes after my arrival, and
also dressed! A Mr. Pattison, a very agreeable-looking man, who seems an
authority on farming, and a Mr. and Mrs. Plumb (son of our Niagara
friend), who was once at T--- P---, but I had entirely forgotten him.
Mr. Pattison spoke of the ignorant, idle, good-for-nothing young men
sent out here to make a living by their worried relations, sometimes
with scarcely a sixpence, in which case they starved but for the charity
of himself and others, or if with any money they fell into bad hands and
lost everything. So many are sent here that he has made a kind of home
for the destitute.


_Saturday Morning_.--Sir David M--- returned from Ottawa, and we
breakfasted together. We nearly missed the train at Toronto (not having
Miss M--- to keep us in order; I call her Queen Christina, she is so
masterful), but just managed to get ourselves and luggage in, and to see
George Bunburg, whom I had made several attempts to see before, and who
I hear is enterprising and likely to do well. We reached Owen Sound, and
got into the steamer all right about three o'clock. Nice farms nearly
all along the line.


_Sunday, 14th September_.--I slept pretty comfortably. We got into
a narrow passage between Lakes Superior and Huron, which was pretty and
curious, great numbers of islands and a very narrow path marked out for
steamers, which, as we met several, made the risk of collision seem very
imminent; they moved very slowly, and have established regular rules of
the road, but cannot travel by night, or if a fog comes on. St. Mary le
Soult is a pretty place, on one side American, where they have made a
lock to avoid the rapids from Lake Huron to Lake Superior. We waited
some time to get into the lock, and then found ourselves in the largest
lake in the world, five hundred miles long by three hundred and fifty
miles wide. Of course, it is like the sea, and while I am writing it is
rough enough to make it difficult. No land is in sight. I have had a
talk with an Archdeacon who lives near St. John's College, Winnipeg, and
is reading "Natural Law;" it is really getting very rough and I must
stop.


_Tuesday, 16th_.--I am writing in the train, and I am thankful to
be alive in it. We arrived at Port Arthur at eight o'clock yesterday,
15th, but could hear nothing of our private car, and when the train
arrived no car still to be seen. At last, after hunting about and
asking, everyone, it turned up, and was very satisfactory. Two men were
there to wait on us, and it was well provisioned, and we set off about
an hour and-half late, but no one minds such a trifle in these parts. At
first the line was fairly straight and smooth, but then the country
became wonderfully wild, with rocky hills covered with stumpy trees and
undergrowth of brilliant colouring, and wooded lakes without end. In and
out we wound, sometimes over most light and primitive bridges, and over
high embankments, often running along the margin of the lakes,
consisting of loose sand, which frequently rolled down the sides as we
went over them. It rained nearly all day, and towards night it poured
and was pitch dark. I was just undressed, and congratulating myself that
we had been standing still at a station, and so I had been able to do it
comfortably, and just got into my sofa bed, with Dick and Hedley
opposite me behind their curtains, when we set off, and in a few minutes
I felt a violent concussion; so many jerks come in common course that I
was not frightened, but we stopped, and then our head man came to the
door and said with dignity, "I think it right to announce to you, my
lady, that an accident has happened." "What is it?" "The engine went
over a culvert bridge all right, but the baggage wagon next to it fell,
down off the line, and as we were going slowly they put on the brake and
no other carriage followed." "Can we go on to-night?" "Oh no, the
roadway is broken up." This was a shock to my nerves, but at any rate we
were safe for the night, and after running in and telling John and E---,
we soon all fell asleep. During the night they tacked on an engine, with
its great lamp eye at the back of our car (we are the last carriage),
and every few minutes this monster gave a tremendous snort, but nothing
awoke Hedley, who slumbered peacefully through it all. We got up early,
rushed off to the scene of the disaster, as did all the other
passengers. It was marvellous that the engine went over that bridge, for
really the rails were almost suspended in mid air, but fortunately for
us it did, or we should have followed and telescoped, and probably been
hurt or killed, the baggage wagon being suspended between the engine and
cars, all on one side and down the bank close to the lake, the window
broken through which the guard jumped out. We trembled for our luggage,
which was all there. The lakes and gaily coloured hills that elsewhere I
should admire, make our railroad so dangerous that we have to creep
along, sometimes over long spidery wooden bridges, and again on most
shaky and uncertain looking embankments, and round sharp corners; every
now and then we stop for no apparent reason, and then all rush to the
platform of our car to see what is the matter. Once a party of the
railway officials got out and ran back; we thought some of our luggage
had fallen out, but it seems one of the bridges over which we had just
passed was rather shaky, and they went to investigate. If we had gone on
last night we meant to be detached at Rat Portage, or Lake of the Woods,
but now we go on to Winnipeg if, please God, we can get there.


_Wednesday 17th_.--Soon after writing yesterday, our steward came
in with a solemn face and said: "I have unpleasant news to communicate;
a wire has just come to forbid the train crossing the tressel bridge in
front of us, so every one must walk, and the luggage be carried over."
The railroad is only lately completed, and they have had no experience
hitherto of the effect of heavy rains. Some of the bridges are only
temporary ones, but no doubt it will be a good and safe line soon. When
one considers the country it passes through, and the difficulties of all
sorts that they have had to encounter, I think the Canadian Pacific
Railway Company and engineers, &c., deserve great credit. "There is a
train to meet us on the other aide of the bridge to take us on to
Winnipeg;" upon which there was a general outcry. "Part with our
comfortable car and provisions Forbid the thought!" "How long will it
take to repair the bridge?" "I don't know at all; it may be days or a
fortnight." After confabulating with the conductor of the train, we
settled to remain this side of the bridge, and be shunted off till it
was repaired, and tacked on to a train again for Winnipeg. We went as
far as the bridge, and a curious scene was before us; the passengers for
Rocky Mountains on the other side had been waiting there for hours, our
train being delayed by the accident, and they proved to be some of our
long lost friends of the British Association; we greeted each other with
effusion; they rushed on our car, and spoke _all at once_ about the
glories of the Rockies and the dangers they had escaped, and the
_fun_ they had, &c. Some conducted me to the bridge to see what had
happened there; considering that there was a great gap in the bridge,
and the tressels were lying about anyhow, and a great iron crane hung
suspended over the hole by one hook, and the engine lay on its side
below, the wire message telling us it would not be safe to go over was
rather ironical! All the luggage of the two trains was spread all over
the rocks and bushes, and people running here and there, the silent lake
so pretty and lovely in contrast. The men with the crane were coming to
our assistance at Termillion Bay (where our culvert bridge gave way),
and the engineer felt the tressels bending as the engine crossed, and
was considering whether to jump off or stay; he decided to remain in the
cab of the engine, as the jump was a very high one, and down they went
to the bottom, but the men were only cut and bruised, and one broke his
leg. This accounted for the delay in our getting assistance, and
fortunately for us all, that our small accident happened when it did. As
our friends from Winnipeg thankfully exclaimed, "if it had not been for
your accident, which was happily so harmless, we should have gone over
that bridge, and as our train was faster and heavier there would
probably hare been a greater smash;" and we exclaimed, "but for our
comparatively harmless accident, we should have gone over that bridge
that night and come to great grief." Wasn't it a mercy we escaped? We
had Professor Boyd Dawkins, Professor Shaw, Mr. de Hamel, Bishop of
Ontario, Mr. Stephen Bourne, &c., on our car for some miles on our way
_back_, and then we were shunted on a siding to wait as patiently
as we could. At this _Hawk_ something station we parted with our
British Association friends, with many good wishes and waving of
handkerchiefs, and were left shunted on the edge of a disagreeable
embankment over the lake. After all this excitement we read, had dinner
and played whist; then made our own beds, and all the 'boys' slept in
the drawing room with me last night, and E--- had the state cabin to
herself. It was very cold in the night, and I had to hunt up another
rug. We breakfasted at half-past eight, and now the others are taking a
walk while I write. I forgot to say Gibson and Roberts went on with our
luggage, across the bridge (or rather, by its side), in the train which
returned to Winnipeg, and there they will stay till we return from the
Rockies. E--- and the boys are just off in the cab of an engine
exploring to the broken bridge. It will he fun, perhaps, for them, but
_I_ find I have frights enough to endure in our necessary journeys.
There is actually a cow at this station, so we had milk for porridge and
tea; moreover, there is a piece of ploughed land, a rare sight in this
wild stony _watery_ country. The Canadian Pacific Railway have not
had experience before this autumn of the effect of heavy rains on their
roads, bridges, &c., and things have sometimes come to grief in
consequence; some bridges are very good and not temporary.


_Later_.--Since writing the foregoing, John and E--- and Hedley
went off on the cow-catcher of an engine for two or three miles
excursion! Dick did not "paddle his own canoe," but the station master
did for him on the lake here, and he _nearly_ succeeded in catching
a large trout! He and I wandered afterwards on the Rocky Hill, and
picked enough blueberries for dinner, and I refreshed my eyes with some
lovely-berried red-leaved little shrubs. Since luncheon a telegram came,
telling us we might go over the bridge, and so off we went, and on
arriving walked all about, some sketching the fallen engine, &c. We set
off with Mr. Egan the manager, in his car in front of us, _en
route_ for Eat Portage, where I am finishing this journal up to this
date, Wednesday, September 17th. It is lovely weather now, and this
place is very pretty, and looks quite civilized after our wilderness
kind of scenery. Mr. Egan is now going on to Winnipeg, and will post
this for me. After our return from the Rockies to Winnipeg, we shall go
to Chicago, Washington and Philadelphia, where write.




Letter No. 6.


_September 21st_, 1884.--I am beginning this in our car _en
route_ to the Rockies, in fact with their snow-covered summits well
in sight. I posted a letter to you, No. 5, at Winnipeg, and also a
newspaper for Mary. From Winnipeg the Canadian Pacific Railway is much
more comfortable, for on the boundless flat of the prairies there is no
need for many tressel bridges or crumbling embankments, and we went
along without fear, excepting that in the neighbourhood of settled
parts, we had to look out for cows. Once we stopped very suddenly (their
brakes are so good in America), having near gone over one in the dark.
They use sometimes a curious kind of sound from the engine, not unlike
the _moo_ of a cow in distress, and I saw it effectually drive some
off the line. The maids met us at Winnipeg Station, and seemed anxious
to go to the Rockies, so we settled they might, and they rushed back for
their things, but they returned only in time to see our train off! On
the whole we thought it was as well they had not come, for maids don't
generally like this kind of life, and we did not need them. We changed
cooks at Winnipeg against my wish, but the others were not satisfied
with our first one, and we have certainly not changed for the better; he
is a coloured man called David, and has been ill, or pretends to be,
since yesterday, and another coloured man whom, we call Jonathan, comes
in to help him.


_Saturday_.--We arrived at Moose Jaw after a very rocking journey,
so bad that I could not sleep, and sat in a chair part of the night; at
last, however, the cold and sleepiness overcame all fear, and I slept in
my bed soundly. We saw lots of Indians in red and white blankets, ugly
and uninteresting creatures. We made acquaintance with the Roman
Catholic Archbishop, who has been travelling in the car next to ours. He
is a French Canadian, but talked English well. He is very pleasant. He
introduced me to two priests, one of whom had been working among the
Indians thirty years. Afterwards he had a talk with John, and remarked
upon my youthfulness to be his mother. Of course, I am always being
taken for his wife, and they seem very much puzzled about it altogether.


_Saturday night, the 20th_.--We reached Calgary after a quieter
night--quite an important city. A good many wooden houses, two or three
churches (I think the congregations must be very small in each), and on
Sunday morning all the inhabitants were out in their best, the men
loafing and smoking about, and quite smart-looking young ladies showing
their finery with great enjoyment, as they do at home. A mounted police
officer drove a pair of good horses to meet some of his men, and there
are cavalry barracks here for them. The train twice a week from Winnipeg
is their only communication with the outer world, so when it arrives
everyone, even from long distances, crowds the platform. We always take
a walk at these resting places, but it is nervous work to go far, as the
train starts without any notice, and they never keep to the time named.


_Wednesday, September 25th_.--After leaving Calgary, which I
forgot to say is near a coal mine (Mr. de Winton, son of Sir Francis,
has a ranch near), and is likely to be an important place some day, we
went to Laggan, which is well into the mountains, and there we saw
Professor George Ramsay, brother of Sir James, and he told us to get
hold of the contractor, Mr. Ross, who would help us about going further
on. The railway people, &c., all said to our great disgust that ladies
would not be allowed to go down the steep incline to British Columbia;
upon this we found out Mr. Boss, and he kindly consented to take us down
the Pacific slope in his own car. At first the boys said I had better
remain behind in our own car, but I felt that if there was a risk I
would rather encounter it with them, and I wanted to see more of the
country, so we prepared to start on Monday, but it poured, and Mr. Ross
would not go till Tuesday. We took a small bag with night-gown, brush
and comb, &c., and left the rest of our goods in charge of the odious,
but I think honest, David, and started yesterday morning in Mr. Ross's
car, in some respects a more convenient one than ours, for it has a
writing table and a stove in the sitting room after an early breakfast
at half-past seven. It was a glorious sunny day. We had two engines
reversed, one before and one behind, and no end of brakes with safety
'switches,' every now and then to be turned on and to send us up hill if
the engines ran away with us, and we crept down very slowly. It was very
exciting, and the scenery magnificent, vistas of snowy mountains opening
continually as we turned the corners, covered with brilliant yellow and
red and purple foliage; and when we came to the foot of Mount Stephen
(called after Mr. George Stephen, of Montreal), Mr. Ross said, "we ought
to call one mountain Rayleigh." I exclaimed, "Oh, yes! There is a
beautiful snow one which has been in sight all the way coming down, let
that be Raleigh." And so it was agreed, and E--- and I sketched
it.--Afterward Mr. Ross, said, "Rayleigh has quite a family after him,"
a curious succession of gradually decreasing tops, and we agreed that
they should be _his five brothers_. At one place we went down to a
bridge, very high over a river, and I thought, "it would be unpleasant
if the engine runs away here," but curiously enough I was not at all
nervous, for I felt so much care was taken, and it was a glorious day,
and the scenery lifted one's soul above the small things of life
_here_, and made one think of Him who created all these wonders,
and yet became our human friend and sympathizer, and now lives to give
us bye and bye even "greater things than these!" At last we got to the
_Flats_ all safe, and then John and Dick walked to the end of the
"construction," about five miles. If one was prepared to ride and rough
it exceedingly, one could reach the Pacific in ten days, but ladies
could not undergo the hardships, and we would not be left alone. Mr.
Ross informed us that we must return soon to Kicking Horse Lake and
Laggan, as there would be no train later. However, we said that John was
extremely anxious to see the working of the line at the end, and it
would be a great pity for him not to have the time, and "_could_ we
stay the night?" He replied, "certainly." Hedley and E--- walked on at a
great pace after the other two, beyond my powers, and I sauntered on
quietly alone, only meeting a few men, belonging to the railway in most
cases and working on the line, which is the only _road_ which one
can walk on comfortably here, and I got three miles, but then a horrid
bridge stopped me, as I hate walking on planks far apart over a height
without a helping hand. I have been all along struck with the far
superior accent and good English of the working men in America (Canada
especially); they have often very good features, too, and wear a
well-shaped moustache, and meet one with a smile. They treat one as
equals, but they are not at all rude, and are always willing to help. I
spoke to some in my solitary walk, and only that they were hard at work
hammering in nails, &c., I should have liked to "tell them a story."
They all returned from end of "construction" on a truck train, Dick and
E--- on an open car, and Hedley and John in the cab of the engine. We
then dined; such a fat coloured man Mr. Ross has in his car! He could
hardly squeeze through the narrow passages, but he managed to give us
something to eat. Mr. Ross received a telegram later to say Mr. Angus,
our host at Montreal, Mr. Donald Smith, both directors of the Canadian
Pacific Railway, Mr. Cyrus Field, &c., &c., were at Calgarry, and wanted
to _come on_, so all is arranged for them, and they are expected
soon, and we hope to return with them this afternoon to Laggan, to our
own car. Last evening E--- suddenly said, "I wish we could sleep in a
tent?" Mr. Ross answered, "I can easily manage it for you," and
accordingly two men of business (I think contractors for food, &c.),
were turned out of their tent, and came to our car, and John and E---
slept in their small tent near the river. I don't think they will want
to do it _again_, and I was better off in a nice room all to
myself, where I could dress comfortably, but had not many appliances for
that end. We all met at eight o'clock breakfast, and our black man (who
looked more than ever like a large bolster, well filled and tied at the
top for his head), cooked us an eatable beef-steak, and after this John
and Mr. Ross's brother "_Jack_" rode off to penetrate as far as
they could beyond "construction." I am a little nervous about his ride,
for the road is a mere track, and very rough, however, wagons and mules
_do_ travel on it. E---  has made many pretty sketches; mine are
scanty and perfectly horrid. I don't improve at all. The sun is trying
to come out. We are on a siding, close to numbers of tents and mules and
wagons, a sort of depot for provisions, clothes, &c. I have never seen a
tipsy man or woman since I landed at Quebec! and in many parts of Canada
alcohol cannot be bought, and the penalty is _always_ severe for
selling or giving it to an Indian. Further on I passed yesterday quite a
"city" of tents; over one was printed "Hotel Fletcher," another,
"Restaurant, meals at all hours," "Denver Hotel," "Laundry," "Saloon,"
&c. These are _speculations_, and are not connected with railway
officials. Some of the men (one was taking a photograph of "the city,")
have the American _twang_. Mr. Rosa is going off directly the
directors arrive, far into the interior, on an exploring tour into the
Selkirk range, &c. The line is "graded" about fifty miles further on,
and the bridges and tunnels are making. They are working the other end
from Port Moodie on the Pacific, and will meet by the spring of next
year. What a pity the British Association's visit to Canada was not in
1885 instead of 1884? Some day are going to carry the line higher up, so
as to avoid the steep incline down which we travelled so cautiously, but
they are very anxious to get the line done _somehow_, and it is
really wonderful at what a pace they go.


_Calgarry, September 27th_.--On Wednesday, 24th, after John had
gone off riding, Dick and I waited about for the directors' car, which
we expected that morning, but alas! though it arrived at eleven, they
only stopped at the telegraph office a moment, took no notice of us, and
went on to the end of "construction," returning in about an hour, (John
got back much later, and we wondered why Mr. Ross advised him to go, as
it obliged him to miss this car); they again only made a pause, during
which Dick spoke to Mr. Angus, and E--- also had a few words with Mr. D.
Smith, but she was too modest in urging our claims to be helped on up
the incline and they went and left us in the lurch. I heard afterwards
that the American part of the company were in a great hurry to get on,
Mr. Angus Field having telegrams following him all along the line, but
we should not have detained them, and they would only have had to drop
us at Laggan, where our own car was waiting. So we had to wait another
night, and all went to bed very grumpy!


_Thursday, 25th_.--After breakfast we walked some way, and then
Hedley and I remained at the telegraph station (this is the only source
of information in these parts), and the others went on. An hour or two
later the freight train began to think of starting up the incline, and
Hedley and I got into the cab of the engine. We soon came up with E---,
who joined us there. Some two or three miles further on John and Dick
appeared, wildly gesticulating as they stood on the middle of the line
to try and stop us, but the engineer declared we were now on too steep
an incline, and on we went, much to our dismay, for this entailed thirty
or forty miles walk for rheumatic John and not over-strong Dick. We
reached the top all right, and found ourselves at "Kicking Horse Lake,"
and to our great relief up walked John and Dick. It seems they made a
rush at the train as it passed, and John jumped on an open car all
right--but Dick caught his foot in a sleeper and fell down, but had the
presence of mind to pick himself up very quickly, and caught the last
engine (we had one at each end) and jumped on the cow catcher! I
shuddered to think what _might_ have happened to Dick when he fell,
but he only got a bruise on his knee and a severe injury to his
trousers! We reached Laggan about half-past one, and found our cook
still much of an invalid, with a real negro to assist him! I think the
negroes are much more manly and altogether pleasanter than the
half-breeds, who are mean, discontented, and impertinent when they dare.
This negro was a capital servant, and had lived with his present master
(to whom he was returning after the said master's absence in Europe)
twelve years. We left Laggan at half-past nine, Friday 26th, and had
glorious scenery, most of which we had previously passed in the dark.
Rocky mountains with their snowy tops all about us, and the lovely
yellow and red and purple colouring on their sides. E--- sketched
vigorously and I smudged! We reached Calgarry about five, and found the
Indians in great force, for they had received their treaty money quite
lately, and were arrayed in gorgeous blankets of red and white and blue,
and any number of gold and coloured beads! They are quiet enough, and
don't look at all as if they would venture to scalp us, or make an
oration like "Chincanchooke" with dignified eloquence; the expression of
the elder ones is unpleasant, and you can see at once the results of
even a _little_ education by the brighter and happier countenances
of the boys and girls. I took a lonely walk on the prairie, over which a
strong cold wind was blowing. I saw several people riding in the
distance. We left Calgarry on 27th, Saturday, by a train partly freight,
and consequently it rocked and jumped, and crashed and crunched, and we
could scarcely play whist, or hear each other speak, and when we went to
bed sleep was banished, at least from _my_ eyes. I watched the
stars instead, and the brilliant morning star about three or four
o'clock shining like a small moon, and then the sun rise over the
prairie. We arrived at Winnipeg about six o'clock, on _Monday,
29th_; our _nasty_ cook had no dinner provided for us, and
though we had authority for remaining that night in the car to sleep,
conflicting orders produced all kinds of unpleasantness, and we were
shunted about and taken two or three miles off from the depot where
alone we could get anything to eat. After making a great fuss we were
taken back and had a good dinner at the restaurant, which we enjoyed
after our monotonous fare in the car. Our maids, who had been a
fortnight at the Hotel doing nothing but spending our money, met us and
brought letters, &c. Dick heard from Augusta for the first time--her
letters had not reached him.




LORD RAYLEIGH, THE PRESIDENT OF THE BRITISH ASSOCIATION, AND PARTY
RETURN FROM THE ROCKIES.


Lord Rayleigh, the president of the British Association for the
advancement of Science, Lady Rayleigh, Clara Lady Rayleigh, Hon. Hedley
Strutt and Hon. Richard Strutt returned yesterday afternoon from the
Rookies in a private car attached to the regular train.

A TIMES reporter boarded the car about nine o'clock last night, and had
a pleasant chat with Lord Rayleigh and the members of the party. They
went to within a few miles of the Columbia River, saw the rails being
laid on the Canadian Pacific Railway and were very much pleased with the
wonderful rapidity the work was being done. Lord Rayleigh said he
thought the Rockies were one of the wonders of the world--next to the
Canadian Pacific, chimed in Mr. Strutt and Clara Lady Rayleigh. The
latter said the party were struck with the brightness, intelligence and
kindness of the men along the Canadian Pacific Railway line. The
kindness they had shown to them would never be forgotten. The party
could scarcely believe that the towns along the railway had grown up to
their present size within the past two or three years, as they did not
think it possible in a new country like this. They were loud in their
praises of the country, and predicted that thousands of emigrants would
come from England to Manitoba as a result of the Association's visit
here. The party put up at the Potter House to-day, and will leave for
the east to-night--_Winnipeg Daily Times, September 30th._




Letter No. 7


_Washington, Sunday, 5th_

I was obliged to leave off yesterday, and now proceed to take up the
tale begun in the train to Chicago. I was telling you about our arrival
at Winnipeg, &c. We returned to our car after dinner and found
ourselves, during our first sleep, shunted off to a repairing shed, and
presently I heard what seemed a shower of stones thrown all over the
car. I could look out of a window sitting up in my bed, and on doing so,
I saw two men violently throwing water over it from a hose, and some of
it came into my bed, upon which I showed my lovely countenance with
dishevelled hair and indignant expression, and called out: "Are you
going to drown me in my bed?" and then I heard a man say--"La! there is
a young lady at the window! don't disturb her!" however, just at dawn
they were at it again, and at six o'clock began to move us into the
shed. I jumped up and expostulated in my dressing gown on the platform
(all the rest were in their beds) and insisted upon their asking for
orders from headquarters; just then, fortunately, an early bird in the
shape of a representative of the _Press_ appeared, and I got John
to talk to him, and he went off to the authorities, and we were shunted
to the depot again, and so got our breakfast by ten o'clock; the
reporters always think I am John's wife (E--- is generally out of the
way), and I believe the last idea is, that John and I have a grown up
family, of which E--- is one! It is rather fun to be _interviewed_,
and John is now less shy about it, and consents to be pumped (in a
_measure_). After breakfast we all drove in a horse-car up the main
street, and were twice off the rails and sunk into a mud hole, and the
boys had to help in lifting the omnibus out of it. They are slowly
paving the streets, but there _never_ was such a muddy lane calling
itself a street anywhere before, I am sure; there are nice shops,
however, and respectably dressed people walking or driving. We lunched
and _cleaned_ ourselves at _Potter House_, where the maids had
been living during our absence in the Rockies, and it seems Mrs. Smith,
the landlady, came from Lady Ward's, and knew the Claughtons, and lived,
for years with the Miss Bakers at Boss, (these unexpected encounters
make one realize how narrow the world is). The country is ugly about
Winnipeg, and so after paying a visit to the Archdeacon, whom we met in
going there some fortnight ago, and seeing his nice house and wife, we
dined at the depot and left for _Chicago_, our coloured cook was
walking and dawdling about apparently quite well, now that he had got
rid of us. We had sleeping berths in the train--an unknown man slept in
the one over mine, and I had to dress and undress behind the curtains of
my own. We breakfasted at Barnsville Wednesday morning, and that evening
stopped in pouring rain at _Milwaukie_; it is a finely situated
town, but the station had been lately burnt down, and we were very cold
and uncomfortable for two hours. Poking about to amuse themselves, the
boys saw a large long deal box, directed Mrs. J. Stacey, and on a card
attached, "This is to certify Mr. J. Stacey did not die of any
infectious complaint." So he was waiting there to be sent on to her by
next train, and we hope she got him safely.


_Thursday, Two o'clock p.m._, we reached Chicago. Minnieappolis,
which we passed through, is likely to be a fine city. We went to the
Grand Pacific Hotel and were separated by long corridors and staircases,
and spent our time chiefly in trying to find one another amidst its vast
solitudes. Of course one never sees a chambermaid, or any one, and the
quantity of little dishes and fine sounding names which one is served
with at meals does not make up for the other discomforts.


_Friday, 3rd._--John had a letter to the pork-killing man, Mr.
Armour, and he kindly sent two carriages for us, with an assistant, who
was to lionize us about. We drove first to the Bank and got some money,
and then through the best parts of the town, along the Michigan
Boulevards, through which we had glimpses of the Lake, but everything
here is sacrificed to the almighty _dollar_, and the railway
engines poke themselves in everywhere, down the best streets, and
destroying the prettiest landscapes, and making unearthly noises close
to your bedroom, or puffing their steam out under your nose as you walk.

Chicago looks a more bustling, and a newer and a more railroad-
dominated place than Glasgow, but like it in smoke and business aspect.
As to the Boulevards, the houses are most of them new, and some in
startling styles of architecture. Some in red, which are very good. One
was nearly finished of white marble, quite a palace, with more ground
than usual round it; but alas, for human hopes, the man who owns it and
_millions_ of dollars, has lately been pronounced _mad_, is in
the care of a wife whom he lately married, and who does not care for
him, and he will die before his marble palace is finished. There are no
_prettinesses_, flowers, &c., about these fine houses, perhaps
accounted for by the forty or fifty degrees below zero which they
sometimes enjoy at Chicago. After six miles driving we got to the
Piggery, &c., and the least said about that the better; it is certainly
wonderful, but disgusting--the most interesting parts were the enormous
yards containing _cattle_, all arranged comfortably, with hay and
water, &c., and the tin-making business for the preserved meats (the tin
all comes from England). Travelling for the last three or four weeks we
have seen little hills of tin boxes perpetually along the line, as the
people in the trains and stations, &c., seem to live almost entirely on
tinned goods. After this we had a hasty luncheon, and I decided to
accompany John and E--- here, and not wait for Dick who wanted to stay
longer. We could not find our maids to tell them, and I had to pack a
great deal myself, meaning to leave Gibson to follow with the rest, but
they turned up at last, and we had a great scrimmage to get off in the
"bus." John thought we might not have time to check our luggage, and so
began to seek for tickets to give the maids, but he could not understand
them so a kind American in the 'bus explained them, and after all we
were in time, thanks again to the said American, who _passed_ E---
and me to the train, assuring the railway people that he had seen our
tickets, and he also got us into the sleeping car. When I was thanking
him warmly, I added, "You must be amused to see such distracted English
travellers?" "Well," he answered, "we are as bad in your country till we
are used to it." After a great deal of shaking and going a great pace
round many curves, which quite prevented us sleeping, we got _here_
(Washington) yesterday at six o'clock. A man met us who was sent by an
astronomer friend of John's, and brought us to this hotel, Wormley's. On
our way in a spic and span omnibus we felt _going down_ on one
side, and found a wheel had come of. We jumped out, and a crowd
collected, and finally we had to transfer our baggage and ourselves into
another omnibus, and got through some handsome wide streets, with trees
each side and good shops, to this hotel. Our first view of Washington
was a lovely one, coming in with the Potomac river in front, and the
fine Capitol, on a hill, backed by a glorious red sunset, which
reflected all in the river; it looked like an Italian scene. This is
said to be a "city of magnificent distances," being planned for future
greatness, and very like Paris in conception. We found acquaintances
here, and John went with, one to the Observatory. This morning we all
went to the American Episcopal Church, St. John's, rather "high," but
nothing really objectionable. This is the centenary of the consecration
of the first American Bishop, Dr. Siebury, Bishop of Connecticut, who,
after having implored _our_ Bishops in London to consecrate him,
went at last to Scotland, and "there in an upper room received Apostolic
orders from the Scotch Bishops, then called non-jurors." We were all
struck with the handsome features of both men and women in church. In
company with a great many others, we remained to Holy Communion, and I
don't think I ever enjoyed it more than among these brethren--strangers,
and separated by the wide Atlantic from our English Church, but joined
to us by "one Lord, one faith," &c. After luncheon John had a chat with
a French scientist, and Mr. Rutherford and his handsome son, and General
and Mrs. Strachy, and Professor Adams, the astronomer; many of these
people are here in conclave about _Greenwich_ time, &c. John and
E--- are now gone driving about with his friend. It is _very hot_,
and poor Hedley is quite knocked down, but we took a little walk.


_Later_.--After dinner a good many adjourned to the drawing-room,
Captain and Mrs. Ray, the Strachys, Rutherfords, &c. We had a scientific
experiment with the shadow of the moon. Mr. Ray told a curious story of
a wasp. He saw it advance slowly to a great _spider_, which the
wasp apparently completely mesmerised, and then the wasp carried him off
to a little house he had made, and deposited the spider next an
_egg_, then another _egg_, and again another spider, till
there was a long row alternately, then the larvae awoke to life, and
_lived_ upon the spiders, who remained fat and well-liking, and
apparently alive up to that point. Captain Ray says he believes Mr.
Scott is right in saying that the American side will never be able to
give us warning of storms which will be of any use, for not more than
one in ten of their storms reach us; our storms come from the North and
Mid-Atlantic. Captain Ray fills the same post here that Mr. Scott does
in London, meteorological and weather prophet. Presently a nigger of
fine appearance, with a companion, played the banjo and sung. It was
really very pretty, and we stood at the porch listening, and numbers of
white-robed figures appeared on the opposite side (the young women so
arrayed walk about a good deal these hot nights), and a little crowd
gathered round us. It is surprising how little music and amusement they
seem to have.




Letter No 8.


_Washington, Wormley's Hotel, Monday, 6th._

The weather has been "exceptionally" hot, they say, for the time of
year, Hedley quite unable to do anything. John went up the Monument,
five hundred feet, and I went with Gibson to see the Capitol. The dome
looks pretty from a distance, but the whole thing strikes me as large,
handsome, uninteresting and vulgar; we inspected the Congress Hall and
Senate Chamber. The view from the terrace was fine. At four o'clock
Hedley and I accompanied Mr. Strachy to Arlington Heights, where there
is a large cemetery for soldiers. It was formerly the country home of
General Robert Lee, the hero of the Confederate War. It was intensely
melancholy to drive through the graves of eleven thousand and odd
soldiers, all killed in the second battle of Bull's Run (I believe), two
thousand of them _unknown_, and buried in one grave, mostly young
volunteers who had _just_ joined. Each white stone told the story
of the bereaved families, and the destruction of so much happiness. The
view of the Potomac and Washington is very fine, and one thought
sorrowfully of the poor Lees who gave up their pretty home and _all
else_, for the sake of Virginia, and in vain!


_Tuesday, 7th_.--John and E--- and I went to Mount Vernon,
Washington's residence and tomb. H--- somehow missed us, which quite
spoilt _my_ day. The air in the steamer was delightful, and the
Potomac is mildly pretty. We were left at Mount Vernon, and I was
disgusted with the shabbiness and untidiness of the tomb of the great
patriot; that even in _his_ case such a want of sentiment and
reverence should be shown does not speak well for his countrymen. I
spoke of this to many people afterwards, and they say it is owing to his
family, who would not allow the tomb to be moved. In the evening we
dined with our Minister, Mr. West, at the Embassy. It is a fine house,
and we enjoyed our evening. There were only Mr. Johnstone and Mr. Helier
attached to the Legation, besides ourselves. Miss West now presides over
her father's house, and is very attractive; brought up in a convent in
Paris, and speaks English with a strong accent. Miss West has given me
some letters of introduction to people at Newport. They showed us some
curious beans, which jumped about in an odd way when held over the light
a little while. It is said there is a worm inside, which is influenced
by the warmth.


_Wednesday_.--We meant to leave to-day, but Dick turned up
unexpectedly from Chicago, and we put off going to Philadelphia that we
might start together. We went over the White House to-day, where the
President lives, and saw the blue room in which he receives every one,
rather ugly I thought it, and the bedroom in which President Garfield
was ill, &c. In the afternoon John and E--- went to Baltimore, as he has
scientific acquaintances there, and I don't know when we shall meet
again.


_Thursday_.--Hedley has just returned from Dick's hotel, and says
he does not go to Philadelphia to-day, so we start alone at two o'clock.
Last night two violent showers of rain cleared the atmosphere, and it is
quite cool and pleasant this morning. I heard from Mr. B--- from
Baltimore, and he says he is going to be married on the 15th, and hopes
we will go to pay them a visit on the 16th; however, as the time does
not suit, and I don't know his intended wife, I have declined.


_Friday, 10th, Hotel Lafayette, Philadelphia._

Last night I had the great pleasure of receiving four letters--one from
you, and one from C--- and Mary, and Margaret. We left Dick behind at
Washington, but he arrived last night; the journey was a pleasant one
and the scenery pretty, especially Chesapeake Bay. I hear mosquitos
swarm at Baltimore and so I am glad we did not go there. This is a very
large hotel and I am on seventh floor, No. 750! Close to me is a fire
escape, which I carefully investigated. We got cheated coming here from
the station, and _so did Dick_, to our great triumph! The country
coming here was more English and well populated than any we have seen.
Going up in the lift who should I find there but Dr. Gladstone, one of
our fellow passengers on the "Parisian;" we all laughed. Since I began
this a very kind note has come by hand from Mr. Childs, of the _Public
Ledger_, saying Mrs. C--- is at New York, but he will try to get her
back on Saturday; he is coming to call at a quarter-past two, and offers
us carriages to drive about.


_Half-past One_.--We have just come back from seeing the Roman
Catholic Cathedral--not much worth seeing excepting a beautiful picture
of our Lord as a Child among the doctors. We also saw the Academy of
Arts, but there was nothing we cared for. I have had a kind note from
Mrs. James Neilson, who hopes to see us at New Brunswick, _en
route_ for New York.


_Sunday, 12th_.--Mr. Childs came, a short, stout man, and very
kind; he sent the carriage at three, and we drove in Fairmount Park, the
largest park in the world, and really very pretty; saw conservatories
and gardens with bright, but only _foliage_, plants--wonderful
perillas, alternantheras, tresine, &c. It was a most lovely evening and
we enjoyed the three hours' airing; it was perfectly clear and still,
with sunshine and fresh balmy air. Yesterday (Saturday) directly after
breakfast we went as by appointment to Mr. Childs' office; he has a
beautifully fitted-up room, filled with all kinds of curiosities,--Tom
Moore's harp, Washington's chair, Louis Napoleon's cup and saucer,
splendid clocks of all kinds; one of them belonged to Lord Howe, which
he had to leave behind him when he was "obliged to run away from the
States in such a hurry!" Mr. Childs' seemed to think I must know all
about this, but I am afraid I had quite forgotten that humiliation. This
reminds me of a story I heard lately of an American lionizing an
Englishman about; they came within sight of Bunker's Hill, and the
American as delicately and modestly as he could announced: "_That_,
sir, is Bunker's Hill," the Englishman put up his glass and looked, and
then said: "And who was Bunker, and what did he do on his hill?" Imagine
the American's indignation at this gross ignorance! To return to Mr.
Childs' room; while there several ladies called, and among them Mrs.
Bloomfield Moore; she talked well and we made friends, and she proposed
to call for us and take us a drive, to which we agreed. After she had
gone Mr. Childs told me she was a poetess and a millionaire, and was
supposed to be engaged to Browning the poet. A man was then told off to
escort us over the building, and a wonderful place it is. All the
printing and editorial work and "job" work so beautifully arranged and
everything in such perfect order. The _Public Ledger_ prints about
80,000 a day, or rather night, and Mr. Childs is the proprietor. Almost
all the American news comes to us from his office from a Mr. Cook, who
telegraphs it to the _Times_. Mr. Cook told me that all the
speeches at the opening of the British Association meeting at
Montreal--Lord Lansdowne's, Sir William Thomson's, &c.,--were
telegraphed to London before they were delivered, John's address had
been left in London before he started. Mr. Cook got the substance of
these speeches beforehand. After this we went to the Electric Exhibition
going on here, and Dick tried an organ; then we had a drive with ----;
she talked all the time and told me all about her husband and his will,
and how astonished everyone was to find what immense confidence in her
it proved; she knows Mrs. Capel Cure and Miss Western, and she has just
bought a good house in London. She is much interested in Mr. Keally (the
inventor of Keally's motor), and has supported him through all the
incredulity and opposition he has met with; she believes he has
discovered a new force, and has just made some experiments before ten or
twelve people, in which without any apparent power of machinery he
produced astonishing results, _not_ electric and not compressed
air, or, if the latter, he has found one a way of producing wonderful
power without the usually necessary accompaniments. This is what _I
hear; he_ says it is a force in ether, which is a medium separating
atoms, but he will not tell his secret till he has taken out his
patents. Mr. Childs sent us some tickets for the opera here, and I gave
Mrs. A. B--- one, and we all went, the music was pretty and singing
good. Mr. Rosengarten, a friend of Mr. Childs, came into the box, and
between one of the acts asked me if I would like to see some typical
American political meetings? I said "Oh, yes;" so he carried me off, and
the boys followed, to a splendid opera house, which was crammed to the
galleries by a very respectable-looking, quiet audience, listening most
attentively to the "Prohibition" candidate, who was shouting and
apparently pleasing them much, but being behind him on the platform
(they wanted me to go close to him but I would not), I could not hear
the point of his jokes. Then we went to the Academy of Music, also a
very large place, where a more rowdy lot were listening very quietly,
however, to General Butler. Certainly no meetings of such size could
take place in England with such entire absence of noise or policemen, of
carriages, or cabs. We went to bed very tired having had so much to
interest us all day. Mr. Childs, by the bye, has sent me a present of
some china and a box full of lovely roses, which I shared with the sons
and Mrs. A. B---. I see I have not mentioned before that I received
yours and Mary's letter of 28th September, which came very soon after my
birthday. This morning we went to a Presbyterian Church by mistake, but
it was very dull and we soon went out and went to another close by,
which turned out to be Ritualistic, but at any rate the music, and
better still, the sermon, was very good,--"What think ye of Christ?" It
was all of Him, so no one could object, not even you! Hedley and I then
rushed off to the Lincoln Institution for Training Indian Girls, where
Mr. Rosengarten was to meet us. It is a very interesting and useful work
(the boys are also under training but we did not see that part of the
Institution) and the girls look so thriving and happy, and the teachers
say they are _above_ the average in intelligence; they sung a chant
and hymn and gave me a photograph to take home. Mr. Rosengarten offered
to take Hedley with him for a drive to see some of his relations, and so
I have been alone since--reading, and writing to you.




Letter No. 9.


_October 14th_.--I sent my last letter to you on Sunday, and on
Monday morning Mr. Childs called and brought me a note from Mrs. Childs
saying she was very unwell and her doctor said she must be quiet, and
would we defer our visit till Wednesday? I declined this at once, and
Mr. Childs seemed very sorry, but when Dick joined us he said we were in
no great hurry to leave Philadelphia and might as well stay, so I could
only agree to remain till Thursday. He gave us seats at the Theatre to
hear "May Blossom" (a pretty _good_ play, which we all enjoyed),
and he asked me if I wanted any books to read? I said "Yes, I should be
very glad of some," thinking he would lend me a few of his own; well, a
large parcel soon arrived with a lovely copy of Longfellow's Poems and
my name in it, and lots of story books, all new. This morning (Tuesday)
our future host at New Brunswick called, a nice-looking, lively man, and
we go to them on Thursday--Mr. James Neilson. Yesterday afternoon we
spent two hours at Mrs. A. B---'s, and met Mr. Keally. He is a curious
person, and looks full of _fire_, and I should say _not_ an
impostor, but I should not be surprised if he was _mad!_ He talked
away tremendously quickly, and used all kinds of new words invented to
suit his discovery, and I got quite exhausted trying to understand him;
all I could really make out was that he professed to have decomposed
_hydrogen_, and evolved a lighter element from it, and that his new
force has something to do with _vibration_; that he multiplies
vibrations almost infinitely, and can distinguish _divisions_ of
_tones_ in an unusual manner. Those who have seen his experiments
lately, declare that _no_ force with which scientists are
acquainted could produce the same effects with the machinery used. "If
it is a trick," he said, "at any rate it is a trick worth knowing--if a
pint of water can send a train from this to New York, which it will do
shortly." He employs several people to make his machinery, but when they
have made it and used it successfully, they declare they don't know
_why_ or _how_ it is done. I am trying to persuade John to
stop here on Friday on his way from Baltimore and see one of his
experiments. I have heard John say that he expected some great discovery
would be made shortly, and in the _chemical_ direction. Mr. Keally
is a mechanist, and says he discovered this force by accident. It is
curiously like the one in Bulwer's novel, which everyone was possessed
of and could destroy anything in a moment. Mrs. A. B--- is going to take
us a drive this afternoon. At present my letters to Newport have only
produced an invitation to dine with Mrs. Belmont on Saturday, which we
are unable to accept. Hedley enjoyed his Sunday outing with Mr.
Rosengarten, and was introduced to heaps of people, and felt quite an
important person. He is always much liked, and _I_ am not
surprised.


_Wednesday, 15th_.--At two o'clock we met Mr. Childs at the
station, and went with him to Bryan Maur by rail, and then his carriage
met us and took us to his farm and stables, &c., and then to his house;
it is all very new and very tidy and pretty. He told his wife to buy any
land she liked four years ago, and build anything she liked on it, and
now he has paid the bills and handed her the deeds, and it is all her
own. That's the way husbands do things in America! The wives and
children have a good time here, and the working classes, too, have many
privileges, or perhaps, I should say, that they _share_ them with
the richer and more educated people; everywhere, in the trains and trams
and restaurants of stations and waiting rooms there is _equality_,
and considering all things one does not suffer much by the mixture
excepting that they "_level down_," and one misses the comforts and
_quiet_ of the English railroads. Some of the working men are
remarkably fine and intelligent looking, and always quiet and well
behaved. I do not observe any very great politeness to women, which I
was led to expect was the prevailing habit in the United States, but I
notice that the fathers are wonderfully gentle and helpful with the
children. Mrs. Childs is a bright little woman, and sings well, which
you would scarcely expect when hearing her voice in speaking. It is a
pity that so many of the women have such unpleasant voices, and the
_men_ have generally nothing harsh in their tones. A captain of one
of the Cunard steamers sat next me, and seeing my distress over a
plateful of very large oysters, whispered, "you need not eat them." We
had carefully abstained from luncheon, as dinner was at four o'clock,
and this was the menu for dinner: soup, _big_ oysters, boiled cod,
then devilled crab (which I ate, and it was very good), then very tough
stewed beef-steak, large _blocks_ of ice-cream, and peaches, and
that was all! So my dinner consisted of crab, and I was obliged to have
something to eat on our return to the hotel. Mr. Childs is very rich,
and gives away immensely. He showed me a valuable collection of
autographs, &c., given him by Mrs. S. C. Hall, whose husband, now an old
man I believe, he partly supports. We left at half-past eight, and this
morning, _Thursday, 16th_, Mr. Childs called early with his
picture, framed, as a present. Sir William and Lady Thomson, and
probably John and E---, are going to the Childs' on Saturday till
Monday, and Mrs. B. M---, who called, is very anxious that they should
see the Keally experiments. I hear John and E--- are going to Boston.
_We_ are starting this afternoon for Woodlawn, New Brunswick, the
Neilsons' place, and to-day I have, an invitation from Mrs. Pruyn of
Albany. We are about to take our berths on board the Cunard steamer
_Oregon_, which starts on 12th November. I had a great pleasure
this morning in receiving from Clara a large photograph of _you_
and Arthur Paley. It is very nice, and I am very glad she arranged so
cleverly for you to be taken! You don't look quite so miserable and
cross, as is your _wont_ in general when being photographed. Clara
and S--- were at a large evening party lately at Euston, where they met
the Princess Frederica of Hanover, whom I have met several times at dear
Katty Mande's, and she inquired about us from Clara.


_Woodlawn, New Brunswick, October 20th_.--We arrived here
Thursday. Mrs. M--- called and kindly took me to the station, and
presented me with some beautiful roses, which I brought here unpacked
and gave to Mr. Neilson. Major R. S--- spoke to me again at the hotel
about the Keally motor, and fervently repeated that after a thorough
inspection of the machinery he is convinced that a new force is at work.
Mr. Neilson and his carriage met us at the station. He is very lively
and full of information, having travelled a great deal, and overflowing
with "_go_." She is very handsome and nice, and nothing can be
kinder than they are. It is a pretty cottage, close to his mother's
house, and with some grounds round them.


_Friday, 17th_.--We took a long drive, Mr. Neilson driving at a
rapid pace, and the river and foliage was pretty, but the scenery here
is not remarkable, and the town of New Brunswick does not look
_rich_, or flourishing. In the evening we went to his mother's, had
tea, oysters and birds, and then a number of people came; Dr. and Mrs.
Cook, Professor of Chemistry, and Mr. and Mrs. and Miss Warren, several
Carpenters, who are cousins of the Neilsons, Admiral and Mrs. Admiral
Boggs, Dr. and Mrs. Hart. He is a Dutch clergyman of the Dutch church
here, and has been at John's laboratory at Cambridge, and talked about
him and his work. I observe the gentlemen stand talking to _each
other_ a good deal as we do in England. Mrs. Neilson _mere_ is a
very nice old lady, with white hair, and something like you. She spoke
about my brother Hedley, and tears came into her eyes as we talked;
everyone here seems to have read his memoirs, and I enclose a scrap out
of the New Brunswick paper, which will show you how he is remembered.
Mrs. T. Neilson seems a capital housekeeper, and the cooking and
everything seems so good and comfortable. Mr. Neilson owns most of the
town, and is delighted when he can _sell_ some of it, and the
neighbours are nearly all his cousins. He says the municipal government
of the town, &c., is at a _dead lock_. Nothing can be done to the
_roads_, (which are disgraceful!) or the streets, which are
dreadful _everywhere_ nearly, that there is perpetual bribery and
corruption, and all owing to universal suffrage, which makes the
respectable people quite helpless! This is the view of all the people I
stayed with or spoke to. On _Saturday, 18th_, we made a long
excursion to Long Branch, going by train to Redbank, a pretty village,
where we got a carriage and drove to Long Branch, a favourite watering
place of this part of the country and New York; miles upon miles of the
sea coast is covered with houses, small and large, in every variety of
style, with no trees and quite flat, with a fine sea beyond the sands.
It looked like a scene on a _stage_! We passed some very pretty
bays and creeks, but though the day was bright, the wind blew a gale,
and we could not sit about. We lunched at the railway station, with our
driver sitting at the next table. It is so funny to find everyone at
your elbow, whatever their position may be, but I must say they behave
very well. We returned by train, and I managed to catch a chill, and
have been in bed most of the morning. The day was so lovely that Mr.
Neilson persuaded me to drive with him in his _buggy_, a very
comfortable carriage like a tea cart, and I enjoyed the sweet _Indian
summer_ and the pretty foliage with peeps of the river. In the
afternoon I went with Mr. Neilson to call on his mother and Mrs.
Carpenter, both fine old ladies, and as I said before, _old_ and
young women are well taken care of here.


_October 22nd_.--Hotel Brunswick, Boston. We left the kind
Neilsons yesterday, and as Dick and I were not well, we took
drawing-room car seats, which, however, were extremely uncomfortable
wicker chairs, which turned round on a pivot with the least movement and
made one feel sick! So I sat on a hard bench usually occupied by
conductors. This is a fine hotel, and John and E--- came to see me last
night after I was in bed; they seem enjoying themselves and are gay,
seeing lots of scientific folk at Baltimore and _here_ at
_Cambridge_. They intend starting home on the 1st. We are arranging
for berths in the "Oregon," on the 12th, Last night I was surprised to
get a letter from Liza, which had been sent to Evelyn, dated October
5th, telling me that No. 90, O--- G--- was let to Mr. Scott Holland till
8th December! I suppose some letter from Liza has been lost, for I have
never heard a word of it before. The road yesterday was very pretty,
crossing two or three rivers with beautiful colored foliage on their
banks, and some fine towns. I enjoy scenery more and more as I get
older, and feel more _one_ with Nature, and Nature's God; the sense
of the _Eternal_ and _Infinite_ deepens in my heart, and the
grandeur of sky and mountain and river _with God over all_ fills me
with calm and peace. I am not at all well just now, and have to
_starve_ nearly. It is difficult at hotels to get the right kind of
food when one is out of sorts.




DISTINGUISHED PEOPLE IN TOWN.


_To the Editor of the "Home News".--_

It may be of some interest to your readers to know that we have at
present in our midst some distinguished people. Not indeed because they
happen to be people of high rank in their own country, but because they
represent names standing preeminent in the fields of science on the one
side of their house, and on the other a name cherished in every
household as the very embodiment of Christian chivalry, that of a
veritable soldier of the cross.

The Dowager Lady Rayleigh (mother of Lord Rayleigh, the President of the
British Association), is at present the guest of Mr. and Mrs. James
Neilson, at their residence, Woodlawn. She is accompanied by her two
sons, the Honorables Richard and Hedley Stratt. The former is married to
a daughter of Lord Bragbrook, a member of the Cornwallis family. The
Dowager Baroness is a sister of Hedley Vicars, the soldier-missionary of
the Crimea, a name as well known and honoured in the households of
America as those of Great Britain.

The party came out to attend the Scientific Convention of Canada, and
have since travelled largely through the great West. They express
themselves enthusiastically as to our progress, material as well as
intellectual.

We take the occasion to congratulate our English cousins upon the
phenomenally fine season which they have selected, and trust that they
may remain long enough to enjoy the loveliness of our American autumn
and Indian summer.--_The Brunswick Daily Home News, Thursday, October
16th, 1884._




LETTER No. 10.


_October 25th, Newport, at "Madame Robertson's."_

Hedley and I and Gibson came here on Thursday, just to see the place, of
which I had heard so much, and to acknowledge the offered civilities of
some of the people there. We left Dick at Boston not very well, and
indeed, _I_ have been quite a wretch lately. Wednesday morning,
E--- brought Professor Pickering, and he asked us to join John and E---
at his Observatory, and at a party given afterwards by Mrs. Pickering,
so at 3.30 we set off all in a tram, and Professor Pickering met us
about a mile from the house, and a carriage took us to the Observatory,
where we saw curious things, and above all, the crescent moon, through a
powerful telescope, which, oddly enough, I had never seen before. Mrs.
Pickering had a large gathering, and I was introduced to quantities of
people, some very nice looking and English in tone and manner. In this
part of America one would scarcely know that you were not living among
the present generation of English transported across the Atlantic quite
recently; the manners of the _coloured_ servants are _very_
objectionable, and the porters of the cars quite odious; they march up
and down, even in the more select Pulman cars, slam the doors, awakening
one out of a much needed doze, and throw themselves down on the chairs
and pick their teeth! "Dressed in a little brief authority, they strut
before High Heaven," and make one wish they had never been
_evolved_ but remained altogether _apes_. The _waiters_
at hotels are often pleasant enough, but the dislike of the white
Americans to domestic service has given a monopoly of this employment to
the coloured people, (shared in many parts by the Irish), and they give
themselves airs accordingly. Dr. Wendel Holmes, of literary celebrity,
was at the Pickerings, and I had a short talk with him, but as every
minute some new introduction came off, I could never have a pleasant
chat with any one. Mrs. Horsford, who was giving a large evening party,
asked us to go there, and the Pickerings wanted me to stay with them
till the time arrived, but I was not equal to this exertion, and we
three returned in trams, which ought to be called _crams_, for they
are invariably in that condition. I was also asked to join John and E---
with a party going to a place called Beverly, but I decided to come
here, as people were expecting us, and we arrived about ten minutes to
three, and I found cards and notes, asking me to lunch and dine, and
drive, and my landlady said the bell had been ringing all the morning,
and the whole place was in excitement about our coming and its frequent
delays! I got a carriage (it was too late to lunch out or drive), and
left some cards and notes of explanation, and as we were leaving one at
Mrs. Belmont's, she drove up in a well appointed drag, so we got out,
and I found her a fair and light little person, very nice, and
wonderfully young looking. She then drove us in her beautiful park
phaton to Mrs. Bruen's, where there was an afternoon party for my
benefit--such a charming old lady! I told her I had a mother of
eighty-one, and she said "Oh I am more than _that_, but no one
knows my age, and I don't think about it, but am ready when the call
comes." I have heard since, she is past ninety! She is small and thin,
full of life and interest in everything, and her brains as active as
ever,--seems to have known every one of interest. I went there again to
tea-dinner last evening, and we talked about everything and everybody
under Heaven nearly! Her clever daughter and very pretty grand-daughter,
Miss Perkins, have read widely, and our subjects of discussion were
endless. Of course at the afternoon party there were numbers of people,
and they told me they were quite delighted at my arrival, for the place
was very dull now, and it was quite an excitement! Last evening a
Professor Shields was at Mrs. Bruen's, and gave me his book on "Science
and Faith." I have had three invitations to dine _to-day_, which,
of course I had to decline. To go on with yesterday's journal, we
lunched with a Mrs. Bell, and met there Miss Perkins and another nice
young lady, and a queer specimen, a Mr. W---, who travels about the
Continent with eight children, and aggravated me by saying he was more
at home in France than in England. We had several made up dishes,
chiefly fish, but little I could eat! Three children came down
afterwards and were made very much of, as usual; then Mrs. Belmont
called for us in her barouche, and took us a delightful drive by the
sea, but it was very cold, and as I had not brought my only warm wrap to
Newport, I borrowed a seal skin jacket from Mrs. Bell; I find I have
only brought _one_ gown that I could have well done without, but I
should be glad of two or three more things.

This place is something like _Ryde_, with numbers of villas, which
in summer weather have beautiful lawns and gardens, and are filled with
all the smart people from New York and Boston, &c.; in the season, they
say it is wonderfully pretty and gay, and the few people remaining are
so sorry I did not see Newport in all its glory, but I can guess what it
would be, and I should dislike the kind of life they lead and the
intense frivolity and absence of any kind of occupation, excepting
dressing and flirtation! I think the _cream_ had been left behind.
This morning Professor Shields took us a drive to the two
_Beaches_, two little bays with bathing sands, and then we drove to
Miss Mason, who lives in a very pretty villa with her sister, and is
very rich, and we all walked together to the _Cliff_, where there
is a fashionable promenade, with rocks and sea on one side and green
turf and the villas with their gardens all open on the other. If any one
has a pretty house or place here it is all exposed to the public gaze,
and even _use_, a great deal! We then drove to Mrs. Bruen's, where
Hedley and I lunched. I am surprised to find how _fresh_ the memory
of my brother Hedley still remains in the minds of people, who I thought
would have been too young to have heard of him at the time of his death,
or too old to remember now what they had heard and read. Miss Mason and
her friend spoke about him with such real feeling, and said they had
been _brought up_ on his "memoirs." Mrs. Bruen and her family, and
Professor Shields and many others speak to me as if I was quite a
_friend_, because of my relationship to Hedley! Isn't this curious
after thirty years? They all asked about _Lucy_, and were so
romantic as to be rather distressed that she had ever married; but I
told them what a good man her husband was, and that she was so active
and useful, and that it would have been a great pity if she had been
_lost_ as a wife and mother, &c. Mrs. Bruen, among other things,
spoke of spiritualism, and said she knew from personal experience there
was much truth in it. A relation and intimate friend was a powerful
medium, and many extraordinary things, such as moving of furniture,
(heavy chairs and tables, &c.) and raps, &c., took place under
circumstances which made imposition impossible, there being frequently
no one present but Mrs. Bruen and her two daughters and this lady
medium. A table at the _end_ of the room would suddenly tilt up and
rap. A large dining room table would tilt up, while all the things
arranged for dinner on it would remain immovable--the lady not touching
it. They all seemed to think that spiritualism had a bad influence, and
Mrs. Bruen thinks _bad_ spirits are at work. She is a wonderful old
lady, past ninety, but full of energy and interest, moving large trees
and making alterations constantly in her house and garden. She kissed me
at parting, and I said "I shall tell my mother what a charming old lady
you are," and she said, "give her my kind regards, and tell her how glad
I was to see you." Well, at last with many hand-shakes and all talking
at once, we parted, and I met Gibson at the station, and we returned to
Boston yesterday, October 25th. I am now writing to you on Sunday from
the Hotel Brunswick. Last evening Dick was out when we arrived, with
Evelyn at a concert, for which I had tickets, but I was too tired to go;
this morning we went to hear Dr. P. Brooks, the great preacher who
everyone was raving about last spring in London, (or was it _last_
year?) his church is like a great _temple_, or public hall, and
cost [pound symbol]180,000. Mr. Winthrop gave us his pew, so we were
well placed, and as he is _very_ rapid and not very loud, the
strain to hear his discourse would have been very great if we had not
been near. "In such an hour as ye think not, the Son of Man cometh."
Christ comes to us in many ways, and through the long ages of the Old
Testament and Christian dispensations he has been continually
_shewing_ Himself,--all great events and promises have partial
fulfilments,--little _milleniums_ have taken pace, and heavenly
Jerusalems have been raised in many a church, in many a gathering of
God's people,--all foreshadowing the _Great Event_ which, will
bring God to man. Then he went on about a _King Idea_, the ruling
object in every profession, in every life; how the _best_ of
_that_ idea,--justice in a lawyer, holiness in a clergyman, and so
on,--was brought home and revealed at times with great power. The
reformations and revivals in the world are the _coming_ in this
sense. He spoke of _unconscious_ love and devotion: that many a
person thinks because they cannot always _feel_ Christ present and
cannot consciously recognize that they act for _Him_ in their daily
life, that they do not love or serve Him; they have given
_themselves_ to Him, but it seems as if He was forgotten while
their daily work and employments _press Him out_. All the time, as
with earthly love and care, the _heart_ is full of Him, and every
now and then strong religious exercises or unusual events excite the
mind; He _comes_ to it in full power, and then they recognize their
Lord. Some of the sermon struck me as too _abstract_, but it was
very suggestive; the music, too, was beautiful. He is a large stout man
with fine well-cut features and beautiful expression. Coming out we met
John and E--- and the Pickerings, who had been elsewhere. I think they
are both tired of America, at least E--- is, and John wants to get to
his work! I am not tired of Americans, but I could not _live_ in
this country; the system political is to me odious, much of the social
system ditto; and the society is so disunited, so patchy, so apparently
without bonds of union or common interests, the life they lead so dull
and without the charms of society at home, and yet there are many as
nice and clever and good as we can find anywhere. I dare say the
missionary and charitable organizations, and educational institutions,
&c., give some interest and occupation to the energetic and pious ones,
but there cannot be much of what _we_ call _parish_ work, or
care of the poor, though there are plenty of poor in the large cities,
and much distress as in older countries. Mrs. Bruen gave me Lowell's
discourse on "The Democracy," which he delivered lately in Birmingham,
and asked me for my candid opinion, without regard to _her_
politics. So I said, "candid I shall be, and first of all being devoted
to my country's old constitution, the democracy has to me a very
unpleasant sound; by that I mean the Government of the many and from
_below_, and _that_ form of Government to me is highly
objectionable. I think with Carlyle, that God meant the rulers of the
world to be those men best fitted by their education and occupations and
experiences to cope with the immense difficulties which encompass good
government. So you see, I can't agree with much Lowell says, but some
things are very good and I have ventured to mark them," upon which she
handed the paper to Professor Shields, and told him to read it, and tell
her what I had marked at a future time, as she wanted to go on talking!
I found Professor Shields quite agreed with me when discussing the
matter next day, but he said, "_we_ can't help ourselves now, take
care _you_ don't get into the same difficulties." Mrs. Bruen made
me give a resume of all the reasons why the Lords opposed the passing of
the Franchise Bill until the Redistribution Bill appeared. I must stop.
We have been to hear Dr. Brooks again, this time _un_-written and
not so interesting.


_Monday, 27th_.--After writing the foregoing yesterday, we went to
dine, and then John called and spent nearly two hours chatting.
_They_ had been to lunch at the Lowell's (relations of the Minister
in England), and leave to-day at one o'clock for New York, and on the
first start in the _Germanica_ for England. I think we are all glad
we are _not_ going to Japan, &c., as I have just written to Mrs.
Neilson, "the old country suits my aged inside the best." I told her I
thought the people about New Brunswick and Boston were especially
delightful. "After this," I added, "you will, perhaps, think me
impertinent if I say they seem to me so English! but after all, you came
from us, and it only shows you have kept the stock pure, while we have
in many cases adopted a spurious Americanism in our ways and speech."
Since I wrote this, Mrs. Perkins, a married daughter of dear Mrs. Bruen,
and a masterful kind of person, has called on me, and upon my making
some such remark as the foregoing, she exclaimed, "I don't like
_that_ at all! Before the war we used to like being taken for
English, but now we _don't_,--How would _you_ like to be taken
for an American?" "Well," I replied, "we don't speak of the
_mother_ being like the _child_; whether you like it or not
you _are_ English by descent, and are our cousins at _least_."
Dick asked her afterwards, "What do you wish to be thought?" "An
American, of course." "Please tell me then how you describe an
_American_?" We could not get her to do so; in fact, nothing
pleases the _set-up_ creatures, for if we judge of them by the
Western or Southern, or even Central Americans, they exclaim at our
injustice, and if we judge by these New England States, they are
indignant at being thought English! This, I believe, is only a
_pretence_, however, and that in their _hearts_ they are fond
of England, and justly proud of the relationship and likeness. Certainly
the New Englanders are conceited and _bumptious_, and in this also
they keep up their British characteristics. They want to lose their
State distinctions (which their patriot Washington was so anxious to
guard), and become _one_ great nation, centralizing everything,
which, indeed, seems the rage everywhere. The Democrats are more
conservative and _really_ liberal, and I trust Cleveland will get
elected as President, for there are many independent Republicans
(_Bolters_, they call them,) who will vote for him, knowing that
Blaine would be a disgrace to their country; he is a plausible rogue,
and respectable people of all opinions almost acknowledge it. Mr. and
Mrs. Winthrop called (I have a nice sitting-room now), and we are to
drive there and lunch with them to-morrow. Mrs. Lowell also called, and
gave us the _Republican_ view of things, being a strong
Anti-Democrat; told us that the Southerners, by arguments of personal
_fear_, made the negroes vote against the Republicans, who they
would otherwise support, according to her story. So much, if true, for
the freedom of American voters! Speaking of sea sickness when crossing
the Atlantic, she said that like (someone else) she thought she should
die the first day, and was afraid she should_n't_ the second day.
Mr. Baillie Hamilton spoke to us at luncheon to-day; he has invented a
new kind of organ, and is perfecting it here, and hopes to make it a
good commercial business in New York, and then go home and marry Lady
Evelyn Campbell. We liked him very much, and wish him all success. Mr.
Perkins called, and we all went to the Archaeological Museum, which is
an entertainment I am unworthy of, as I don't understand Art, china, or
lace, or embroidery, or statuary, and only know what I _like_; but
Mr. Perkins wasted a great deal of valuable information upon me. After
this, we all walked to the common with Mr. Hamilton; he told us that he
had worked for months in a factory at Worcester, near this, in his
_shirt sleeves_, no man knowing him, and he thinks highly of the
American workmen in these parts. They are kind and noble under their too
independent and rough exterior, and that is my own impression; but still
I detest the system which has taught them that respect and politeness
are servile and unmanly, and that domestic service is a disgrace. I had
the pleasure of receiving your letter of 15th October this morning, and
am so glad you can use your hand more. I don't think _any_ of your
letters are missing, but, _without conceit_, mine are of more
value, as those to you are my only journal, and I should forget so many
things if I had not these letters to refer to on returning home. Now I
must finish this. Mr. Hamilton is talking while I am writing, and we
shall see him at New York on the 3rd, Hotel Brunswick. You will probably
only have one more letter from America. I am better, but still rather
queer.




Letter No. 11.


_Wednesday, October 29th, Brunswick Hotel, Boston._

I sent you a letter on Monday, and I will now begin another, which may
be the last from these shores. On Tuesday, Mrs. Pickering, the wife of
the astronomer at Cambridge, called early "to be of use," but I was
engaged to lunch out with the Winthrops, so we arranged to meet to-day.
Dick went to play the organ at Advent Church, and was delighted with it,
full of ingenious mechanism. At half-past twelve Hedley and I met him at
the station, and Mr. Perkins met us, and we found Mrs. Winthrop's
carriage at Brooktines. Mr. Perkins is a very accomplished man, lived a
long time in Germany to study music, and in Italy to study Art
generally. He looks very like Mr. Henry Sidgwick, and you would never
guess he was an American. The drive through Brooklines was very pretty;
we saw three large trees of a pure gold colour on the greenest turf in
one place, which had a lovely effect. The Winthrop's house is not
furnished with aesthetic taste, but there were some good pictures. Mr.
Winthrop has been married three times, and the present wife was married
before, so there is rather a confusion of families. _Her_ daughter
only lives with them, and is affected with a sort of St. Vitus's dance,
which made it rather trying for Hedley to take her in to luncheon; but I
never saw anyone who seemed less self-conscious or more at her ease than
this poor girl, and her mother is devoted to her, and shewed us her
picture in great triumph. We had Mr. Packman, the historian of Canada,
at luncheon, and Mr. Richardson, a celebrated architect, formerly a
slave owner in the Southern States, who liberated his slaves before the
war, but was a "rebel," and lost his all, and had to work for his
living. Mr. Packman said he thought Canada was improving wonderfully,
but (as the English when we were there had told us), the French element
multiplies with extraordinary rapidity, and they are a compact body
under the control of their priests, and so carry all political questions
their own way; consequently, but little progress is made in the province
of Quebec. Mr. Packman is a Republican, but is going to vote for the
Democratic candidate, Mr. Cleveland, because he believes him to be an
honest man, and that Blaine would bring the country into difficulties. I
wish some of _our_ Republicans would come _here_ and learn a
lesson of conscientious independence! There were some ladies besides,
but I did not make out their names. At last luncheon was ready, and such
a nasty luncheon! Great oysters, and raw beef, and dried-up partridges,
and the never failing blocks of ice-cream, which _sounds_ very
nice, but one gets tired of it, especially when it makes one ill!
However, the _mental_ food was very good, and Mr. Winthrop, who
knows everyone, spoke to me of Gladstone. He thinks he "is a man of many
words; he knows something of everything, and a good deal of some
things," but on the whole he evidently does _not_ trust his
statemanship. He knew the late Lord Lytton and his wife, and met her
after their quarrel at Roger's, the poet, and thought her a very fine
clever woman, with charms of manner. Lord Lytton he thought very
unpleasant; very deaf, and sensitive about it, and would not use his
trumpet. Macaulay was very _ponderous_, and had a _Niagara_
flow of language. He always engrossed all conversation, and one got
tired of listening. Mr. Winthrop greatly enjoyed the coming of age of
Lord Cranbourne, at Hatfield, to which he was invited, and he thinks
Lord Salisbury's speaking more interesting than Gladstone's,--that the
House of Lords might make some compromise about the Redistribution Bill,
and that it would be an immense pity for England to lose the three
estates of the realm, and the Established church. "We don't want you to
become a Republic, but keep up the standard of good government for the
rest of the world." Afterwards we went to Mr. Augustus Lowell's, and
there we found all vehement for _Blaine_! I did not agree with
their arguments, but listened to all very meekly and attentively! They
also urged us, as every one else, _not_ to give in to the idea of
universal suffrage, which is the _bane_, they say, of politics in
this country, and causes all their difficulties. After tea we drove home
five miles in Mr. Winthrop's carriage; I like her very much, and she has
more _softness_ of manner, being a Southerner, than the Americans
sometimes have. Wednesday we met Mrs. Pickering at the station, and
after a short railway journey, drove to the beautiful grounds of
_Wellesley College_, founded by a rich American, Mr. Durrant, for
girls over sixteen. Three separate buildings, and a pretty lake, and a
very interesting President, Miss Freeman, about thirty. After seeing the
perfect and numerous arrangements made for the education of the young
women, chemistry-rooms, libraries, statuary, &c., &c., and making
acquaintance with some of the lady professors, we had luncheon with
hundreds of girls; some of these pay less, (the regular payment is
forty-five dollars or pounds, I forget which, a year), and have some
light work to do, _wait_ on us, &c. I can't say the luncheon was
good! the beef hard, and I had only bread and jam! I thought "unless
they have a really good breakfast and dinner, these young women will not
be able to bear the strain on their mental and bodily powers." After
this innocent meal, six young girls, dressed in blue serge and white
costumes, with hats of the shape of undergraduate's, rowed us in two
boats, one painted blue with light oars, the other white, and the girls
rowing it also in white costumes; our blue captain was a very pretty
bright girl, just the type one reads of in novels as the American girl,
(but not a _lady_ in the American view, or our own,) and she
chatted away, and led the others in some pretty songs, while they rested
on their oars, and then we were obliged to hurry away. One of the
professors told me now clever the _captain_ was, and another asked
me to send six copies of Hedley's Memoirs for the Sunday Lending Library
here, with my name, "which they should value so much." We returned to
Cambridge, and kind Mrs. Pickering, who is very good looking and
energetic, took us to Harvard College, and we saw the Memorial Hall, and
interesting Gymnasium, where the young men were practising all kinds of
wonderful exercises. We got home very tired, and at seven o'clock dined
with Mr. and Mrs. Perkins. Mrs. Perkins, like her mother, Mrs. Bruen,
has had great experiences in Spiritualism, and believes it is _not
good_.


_Thursday, 30th_.--At Mrs. Pruyn's, _Albany_.--We left Boston
about eleven o'clock, and found her carriage and cart waiting for us at
station, and received a most kind welcome. She is a rather stout woman,
of about forty, who has been very pretty, and has two daughters of
sixteen and eleven, and a stepson who is very delicate. Mrs. Pruyn is
very rich, (everything having been left to her as usual here), and the
house is filled with beautiful gold and silver-plate, and china and
books, and curiosities of all sorts. She seems very energetic and good
in all relations of life. Some people dined,--her father, Judge Parker,
Mr. and Mrs. Kidd, Mr. Ledgard, of old Dutch extraction, which is very
common here and in the States generally, and lives in the country
_Canzenovia_, on the shores of a lake. His family have been there
for generations.


_Friday, 31st_.--We all went to see the Capitol, an enormous and
handsome building not yet completed, but what I cared for much more, we
saw the President, or rather I should say, the _candidate_,
Governor Cleveland. He talked with us some minutes, and seemed a simple,
honest kind of man, without vulgarity, but not of society manners or
attractiveness. I wished him success, for which he thanked me cordially.
The poor man is hunted to death by men and meetings of all sorts. So we
did not stay long. I caught cold in this hot place, (they do burn such
fearful _furnaces_ in the houses here), and I could not go out
again.


_Saturday_.--Remained in bed till four o'clock to-day, and then
got up to tea, Mrs. Pruyn's sister, Mrs. Corney, such a nice cheerful
woman, with a face something like Lisa's, and Mrs. Evans, with a
handsome niece, came to lunch yesterday, Miss Pruyn drove Hedley in a
nice pony carriage. At dinner we had General and Mrs. Mirvan, another
sister, and Dr. Holms, Librarian in the Capitol. This afternoon two
presents of flowers came for me; they all went to church in the morning,
being All Saints' day. The Evans asked us all to dine, but Mrs. Pruyn
had company at home. Mr. Palmer, son of the man who sculptured "Faith,"
so often photographed, and the clergyman of St. Peter's, Dr.
Battershall, who was very pleasant, and talked nicely of Mr. Rainsford,
son of Mr. Rainsford of Halkin street, who has done wonders in New York,
at St. George's. The American religious people are far less narrow
minded and censorious than _we_ are; one sect or party _can_
see that a great deal of good and successful work is done by another!
Mrs. Pruyn is decidedly ritualistic, but she is quite sorry I shall not
be here next week, to hear Moody and Sankey, who are to hold meetings. A
Miss Lansing dined here, and seems a very touchy American-loving person,
and snubbed the boys if they hinted anything here was not perfection.


_Sunday, 2nd_.--Heard a good sermon from Dr. Battershall, at St.
Peter's, on "Seeing _Him_ who is invisible,"--the Apostle's
definition of _faith_. We remained to Holy Communion. He is
evidently fond of ritual, but there was nothing really objectionable. In
the evening we all went to Judge Parker's, and Mrs. Parker, who had not
left her room for some weeks, came down to see me, and is a very nice
old lady; all the daughters and their husbands, and the widower son,
came to heavy tea, a regular custom in the family--then Dick played, and
we sung hymns.


_Monday, 3rd_.--Had a delightful drive with Mrs. Pruyn in the
morning, violet mountains (the Caltgills) in the distance, with
brilliant foreground of autumn tinted trees, and golden fields, and a
bright sun shining on all, made a pretty picture; the streets and roads
here are very bad, as generally in America; really one drives over
_boulders_ of stone in some of the streets here, and they say, "it
can't be helped, the municipal corporation have it in their own hands."
Our kind hostess has given me a pretty dusting brush and a book, &c.,
and is going to send me a box of biscuits I liked, for the voyage home.
Mrs. Pickering has sent me a pretty little case, with my initials on it.
We left Albany at twenty minutes to three, and much enjoyed the scenery
on the banks of the Hudson _en route_ to New York, but it got dark
before we came to the prettiest part, and we did not get settled in this
Hotel Brunswick till past eight o'clock.


_Tuesday, 4th_.--After a better night I awoke, feeling less
uncomfortable, but I have not been at all well lately, and I suppose
that what I want is _rest_ and a different diet. I found dear
Mary's letter, and one from Clara. I shall not hear any more, I suppose,
now, till I meet Edward, &c., at Ampton Hall, on the 20th inst. We all
agree our hearts are "homeward bound" now, and the dear old Grandie
will, please God, welcome us back in health and peace. I have had lots
of visitors this morning and afternoon. To-night we dine with my
Philadelphia friend, Mrs. B. Moore.

_Later_.--We met Monseigneur Capel at dinner, and Major Recard
Seaver, and a Miss Hooker. Crowds all about the hotel (Fifth Avenue);
electoral returns put up in front of an electric light near it, and
cheers as they appeared to favour one side or another from the dense
crowd. Monseigneur Capel is handsome and agreeable, but he did not
impress me _at all_ as a sincere or saintly person. We had to make
our way home through a great crush, but there was nothing unpleasant.
The Republicans have had it all their own way for more than twenty
years, and have, of _course_, become tyrannical and corrupt, so no
wonder the best of them support Cleveland, who is believed to be honest,
and has proved himself capable and sensible as Governor of New York. The
cheering and groaning went on all night, which was not conducive to
sound slumber. They cheer and groan in _unison_, which has a
curious effect.




Letter No. 12.


_November 7th, Brunswick Hotel, New York._

I am not sure whether I wrote up my journal to _this_ date,
Wednesday, 5th. On that morning Hedley and I went by _elevated_
railway to get money from the bank, and pay for our passages in Cunard
boat, the _Oregon_, on the 12th. After luncheon, Mrs. Belmont
called and took Dick and me a drive in the park, and afterwards to
Tiffany's, the great place for jewellery and such things. Dick went then
to hear Mr. Baillie Hamilton's organ, and Hedley walked to the Millers,
where Mrs. Belmont took us for an afternoon party they had got up for my
benefit. They live in rather a nice flat, which was crowded with people,
and where I got the most delicious chocolate and cream and biscuits! I
was introduced to _everyone_, I think, and talked politics as much
as I could with all the men in turn; even the Republicans strongly
advise our retaining the House of Lords, and _not_ giving universal
suffrage. There were some nice-looking well-dressed people at this
party, and all so kind and anxious we should be pleased. I like the
Americans! they are so good _au fond_, and the women are superior
to the men of the younger generation. After dinner at the hotel, Hedley
spied out Mr. Angus, our host at Montreal, and we had a long chat. The
election is not yet decided, and the Democrats say that the others are
likely to play tricks with the ballot boxes, and they have certainly
delayed electoral returns; having command of ballot boxes, railways, and
telegraphs, they can easily do this, and if people arrive at thinking,
as some do at _home_, that a man's conscience ought only to
consider the importance of keeping _his party_ in power, and ignore
every other consideration, why, what is to stop these kind of things? If
a man's conscience is not to _weigh down_ the advantages of gain to
his _party_ in some matters, why in others?


_Thursday, 6th_.--We started as arranged at a quarter to nine to
the Normal School for girls, richly endowed by some citizen, and
entirely free. It was a good walk and we were not lucky in our trams,
and so we arrived rather late at the large hall. Our friend General
Wilson introduced me to the President, who placed me in his chair, and
then I saw before me fifteen hundred young women. They got up singly and
recited interesting quotations and sung, and then marched out to music
in military order. We went to another hall, and saw them exercised, and
they were healthy and graceful performances. These girls come at nine
and stay till two, and are thoroughly well taught. Little ones, too, are
instructed by the elder girls. It is a capital education for the future
mothers and teachers. I suppose most of our girls go to service of that
class! We then went to General Wilson's, and breakfasted on soup, fish,
venison steak, &c. A very agreeable lady, a Southerner, was there, and
as General Wilson is a Republican, we argued, and he found all the party
against his views, but he is used to being crushed, for his wife is a
Democrat. He wanted us to go to see a famous library, but I was too
tired, and when he and the boys returned we went home, and Mr. and Mrs.
Neilson were waiting for us at the hotel. We then started for a very
high building near the river, when we mounted in an elevator, and had a
beautiful view of New York, and could see the splendid river and
water-way in which it rejoices, but everything is spoilt in America for
the sake of the _railways_, and steamers, and wharves, and you see
no pretty houses near the river banks in the cities. Brooklyn Bridge is
fine, and I half hoped to cross it and find out Dr. Penticost, but was
_finished up_, and went home to rest. Then visitors came: Mrs.
Gardener, daughter of Bishop Doane, of Albany, very nice; then we dined
at the Belmont's. The house is gorgeous in embroidery, and pictures, and
statues, and all in very good taste, and more _comfortable_ than
most of their fine houses. The dinner, too, was _very_ good, and I
was the better for the excellent champagne. Mrs. Belmont is a wonderful
little woman, with thick brown hair, and looking about forty, and I have
seen people look as old at thirty. He is short and lame, and rather
plain, but is clever and agreeable, and speaks with a strong foreign
accent. Their son, Mr. Percy Belmont, has been elected three times for
Congress. There was a southern lady there and her husband, Madame
Hoffman, I think, and a Miss Wright. Madame Hoffman is very handsome and
lively. The Belmonts apologized for a small party, because they are in
mourning. They keep up mourning dress and customs tremendously long
here. At first I thought there were a surprising number of widows going
about, but I discovered they were mourning for their aunts or
grandmothers.

The election was not settled till late last night, and they say the
Republicans are still disputing the returns--and they feared riots in
New York. I must say they seem wonderfully quiet, and I slept till
half-past eight this morning, longer than for weeks past. To-day's
papers announce Lord Londonderry's death and Mr. Fawcett's. How many
people one is interested in have died since we left England in August!


_Friday, 9th_.--Mr. Baillie Hamilton took Dick and me to, hear his
organ "_vocalian_," at a church, it was a _walk_ for me, and
the wind was very cold and strong, church very hot, and so I caught
cold. I should die of some lung complaint if I remained here long! We
started for Long Island about three, crossing in a ferry and then by
rail, and found on reaching the station that Mr. Jones and Miss Miller
were unhappy about us, as they could not find us in the train. Carriages
were waiting and we reached Unqua in twenty minutes. A good sized house
(and my bedroom quite splendid) on a bit of grass land, with stumpy
trees scattered anyhow, opposite and close to South Oyster Bay,--which
is divided from the Atlantic by a narrow strip of sand, back premises in
full view, with chickens and turkeys everywhere in full possession!
_All_ the establishment awaited out arrival, I think, in the hall,
including two smart waiters come for the auspicious occasion. Mrs. and
Miss Jones (her sister), and a Miss Jones (niece) with her father who is
a widower and lives there, and Col. Jones a grass widower whose wife
lives in Paris. At dinner I appeared as smart as I could, and I think
made a sensation, judging by the approving looks and smiles cast upon
me! Nearly all the neighbours are Jones's or Loyd Jones's, and some of
them dined.


_Saturday, 8th_.--I rested in my room till twelve, and then in a
smart tea gown was _seated_ next Mrs. Jones on a sofa, and was
introduced to each one as they shook hands with her and with me; they
were nearly all strangers to me, but some sat for a few minutes on my
other side and talked, and some asked us to go and see them, but I was
obliged to decline all hospitalities, as we have no time for more. They
were not particularly well dressed _generally_, nor was I struck by
the beauty of the young women. Mrs. Belmont, who is a leader of fashion
in New York, said, "I hope you won't think this is the _best_ of
New York society;" however, I know I have at different times seen the
_best_, and there were many there who represented _la creme de la
creme_. Sir Richard Temple was one of the very few English present,
all were very kind and cordial, and I really felt quite an important
_Personage!_ almost royalty! The luncheon was a terrific scramble,
for waiting is so bad in America, and I got nothing to eat till very
late, and my head ached horribly--after shaking hands with four hundred
people (three hundred came by special train from New York), it was not
much wonder, and I retired to lie down at half-past four, when they all
had gone.


_Sunday 9th_.--I was in bed quite ill till past four, and then I
came down and was petted and nursed. Dick went back yesterday afternoon,
and the last we saw of him was hanging on to the back of one of the
numerous carriages, which he caught just in time to reach the train. I
could not go out to tea as arranged with some relations, but the others
did excepting Mrs. and Miss Jones. At half-past seven we had supper
altogether and champagne, &c. Nothing could be kinder than everyone.


_Monday, 10th_.--At two, after luncheon, they sent us to the
station (Mr. Jones, such a good nice man, had gone early to New York),
and Miss Miller accompanied us. On arriving at the hotel there was Mrs.
Bidgelow, a very cordial lady who had invited us to West Point; she
seized me and exclaimed, "I am so glad just to have caught you and seen
you once more," and she called me "dear," sometimes, and begged she
might kiss me at parting, and as she was nice looking I didn't mind!
That night being engaged to go with Mrs. Belmont to the opera, I felt,
in spite of the risk, I must do it. So I went well wrapped up and sat
behind in the beautiful large box, so that I could cough without at any
rate being _seen_, and I hope did not much interfere with the
enjoyment of _Patti_ by others, but for myself it was no enjoyment
at all. There were smart and well-dressed people in the opera house, but
_not up_ to _our_ upper "ten thousand" and they talked while
Patti was singing in our box which was close to the stage.


_Tuesday_.--Mr. Cleland Burns of the Cunard Company, an old
acquaintance, came to see me with many kind offers to arrange everything
for my comfort, as he and his daughters were going in the _Oregon_,
and also Mr. W. Cunard, and his son; a Mr. Morgan, a banker and friend
of Mrs. Pruyn's, has put off coming unfortunately, for from all accounts
he is much to be liked; he called twice, and the second time I was able
to see him. I remained quiet, but saw many visitors, and many I was
obliged to decline seeing; the _sons_ both went out to dine.


_Wednesday, 12th_.--At half-past ten we started with baggage for
ship, got all on board comfortably, found one lady in my cabin, and I
spoke to Mr. Burns, who said he would arrange for me after we had
started; lots of people came to see their friends off. Mr. Neilson,
brought me some beautiful butter for the voyage! Mrs. Pruyn telegraphed
and sent me the biscuits; Mr. Hall, a brother of Mrs. Edlmann, and Mr.
Eyre, friends of Dick's came, and Mr. Carpenter an acquaintance from New
Brunswick, and Mr. Whitehouse, a literary acquaintance. At six o'clock
we started in the fine ship _Oregon_, in which I am now writing. It
was a lovely _Indian_ summer day, _clear_ as we rarely see it
in our Islands, sun shining, and so we saw the splendid Bay of New York
to great advantage, it seemed wonderful to us after our experience going
to Quebec, to see how calm and blue the great Atlantic _could_ be.
Mr. Burns put me into a cabin to myself near _them_, but
unfortunately it was also very near the engines, and after two nights, I
sneaked back to my own berth, and put up with a very quiet little lady
in preference! Mr. Burns placed us at their table, and I have the
benefit of his cheerful company and his lively daughters, as well as the
champagne and good things he shares with us, and we are a very merry
party, and enjoyed ourselves much, until Friday, when the weather
changed. A Mr. Clinton, a fine looking man of six feet six inches, son
of Lord Charles Clinton, a Mr. Dickson, a very gentlemanlike nice
ex-guardsman, a Mr. and Mrs. Drake, who are very musical, and he plays
the flute better than anyone I ever heard, all sat near us, but for two
or three days we had the _old story_, and the waves beat and rolled
us about, and the passengers disappeared like mice to their holes, and
we could not go on deck.


LIST OF SALOON PASSENGERS PER R. M. S. "OREGON," (CAPTAIN McMICKAN,)
NEW YORK TO LIVERPOOL, Nov. 12TH, 1884

  Miss Appleford
  Mr. Julian B. Arnold
  Mr. J. Fred Ackerman
  Mr. Jose d'Aranjo
  Mr. and Mrs. Edward Austin
  Mr. Alex Aitchinson
  Mr. C. D. Armstrong
  Rev J. A. Anderson
  Capt and Mrs. Bogle, six Children and two Servants
  Miss Bogle
  Master Bogle
  Miss Bodwell
  Mr. C. Bayley
  Mr. G. Bayley
  Mr. Thos. A. Bell
  Mr. J. N. Beach
  Mr. Arthur A. Brigham
  Hon. F. A. K. Bennett
  Mr. S. A. Budgett
  Mr. J. Cleland Burns
  Miss Jean Burns
  Miss Grace Burns, and Maid
  Rev. Geo. A. Brown
  Mr. B. Bonfort
  Miss Martha Bonfort
  Mr. J. Barnes
  Rev. Edwin M. Bliss
  Mr. F.D. Blakeslee
  Mr. J. Lomas Bullock
  Mr. W. Butterworth
  Mrs. Mary B. Byrne
  Mr. John Blair
  Rev. John Boylan
  Mr. J. Collins
  Mr. Stanley Conner
  Mr. Aug. T. Chur
  Miss Cranston
  Mr. and Mrs. Wm. M. Cranston
  Mr. J. P. Croal
  Mr. and Mrs. Thomas Russell Crampton
  Miss Florence A. Cordis
  Miss Nellie R. Cordis
  Mr. L. Crules
  Mr. F. M. Crick
  Mr. and Mrs. Woodie Cook, and Son
  Mr. John Cholditch
  Mr. Pelham Clinton
  Mr. John L. Chapman
  Mr. Alex. Campbell
  Mr. Wm. Cunard
  Mr. Ernst H. Cunard
  Mr. Geo. Dixon
  Mr. John Dixon
  Mr. Frank S. Dougherty
  Mr. Chas. Algernon Dougherty
  Mr. and Mrs. C. A. Drake
  Rev. and Mrs. W. E. Daniel
  Miss Annie Davis
  Mr. Walter Dickinson
  Mr. Ed. M. Denny
  Mr. Ed. Henry Denny
  Mr. Chas. Edward Denny
  Mr. J. H. Douglas-William
  Mr. F. J. Douglas-William
  Miss R. Emmett
  Miss Emmett
  Miss Lydia F. Emmett
  Mr. and Mrs. Robert Easson, and two Children
  Mr. A. S. Emmet
  Mr. Frank Evans
  Miss Alice Foster
  Miss Emma Foster
  Mr. and Mrs. J. B. Fiddian
  Rev. M. Flynn
  Mr. Chandos-Pole-Gell
  Mr. C. Gostenhofer
  Mr. G. Greiner
  Mr. R. Gebhardt
  Rev. Miles Grant
  Mr. and Mrs. C. W. Gordon, and two Children
  Mr. Francis Henry
  Mrs. H. J. Hastings
  Miss Hastings, and two Maids
  Mr. Nigel F. Hatton
  Mr. Michael Hughes
  Rev. and Mrs. E. P. Hammond
  Mr. F. Henriques
  Mr. Clarence M. Hyde
  Mr. Theodore Haviland
  Mr. C. T. Hunter
  Mr. F. W. Hutchins
  Mr. Henry R. Hoyt
  Mr. E. L. Hamilton
  Mr. John Hall
  Mr. W. Howden
  Mr. W. E. Jarratt
  Mr. Chas. Johnston
  Mr. A. de Journel
  Mr. T. O. Jones
  Mme. Marie Joseph
  Mme. Honorat
  Mme. Helena
  Miss Kenyon
  Mr. Adolph Keitel
  Mr. Richard Kibble
  Mrs. Kidd
  Miss Kidd
  Miss B. Kidd
  Master Kidd
  Mr. Frank Kemp
  Mr. and Mrs. A. Ladenborg
  Dr. and Mrs. Landis
  Mr. W. Liddell
  Mr. A. Lindsey
  Mr. Edmund Lees
  Mr. John Lawrance
  Mr. P. Lawrence
  Mr. John Leach
  Mr. E. Middleton
  Dr. Wm. B. Meany
  Mr. G. B. Mackintire
  Mr. Archd. A. McDonald
  Mr. Ch. Mordaunt
  Mr. M. L. Marcus
  Mr. and Mrs. W. T. Makellar
  Mr. Herbert Mead
  Mrs. L. Middleton
  Mr. W. W. Marks
  Mr. M. MacLehose
  Mr. Paul Meischer
  Mr. Alex. McEwen
  Mias Mills
  Mr. Robt. J. McClure
  Sister Eliza Monica
  Mr. Francis More
  Mr. A. Bishop Mason
  Mr. and Mrs. Benjamin Nichols, and Child
  Mr. and Mrs. C. F. Noyes
  Mr. Jeffreys Owen
  Mr. and Mrs. Henry M. Peyser
  Hon. F. Petre
  Mr. Richd. C. Perkins
  Miss Puleston
  Mrs. C. B. Paulmier
  Miss Nellie Paulmier
  Miss Richardson and Maid
  Mr. and Mrs. E. G. Rideoot and Maid
  Mr. and Mrs. J. M. Richardson, and Maid
  Lady Rayleigh, and Maid
  Mr. J. E. Raymond
  Mr. J. F. Raymond
  Mr. Jno. F. Roy
  Captain Hugh Rose
  Mr. and Mrs. H. Skerrett Rogers
  Mrs. Mary Elizabeth Riches
  Miss Marion Riches
  Mr. Champion B. Russell
  Mr. W. Scott
  Mr. Harmon Spruance
  Mr. and Mrs. T. J. Schickle
  Mr. Frank W. Stokes
  Mr. C. F. Schmidt
  Mr. Matthew Snoeck
  Mr. Philip M. Smith
  Mr. O. Streatfeild
  Hon. Richd. Strutt
  Hon. Hedley V. Strutt
  Mr. G. S. Stephen
  Rev. Geo. Mure Smith
  Mr. I. L. Solomon
  Mr. Frank Sartoris
  Mr. E. W. Sawyer
  Mrs. Trielhard
  Mrs. Martin Thouron, and two Sons
  Mr. H Trevenen
  Mrs. Edwin F Taylor
  Mr. Alfred R Tregellas
  Mrs. L J Trowbridge
  Mr. John A. Talk
  Mr. A. Taylor
  Mr. A. M Talbot
  Mr. Jean Verga
  Sister Mary Virginia
  Mr. Chas E Willoughby
  Mr. Geo Windeler
  Miss Minnie Wilson
  Miss Walls
  Mr. Wm. Ward
  Mr. O. M. Warren
  Miss Adelaide Wilson
  Mr. Thomas Webb
  Mr. G. F. Watson
  Mr. Gordon Wendell
  Mr. A. H. Willey
  Mr. A. Woodthorpe
  Mr. A. J. Winn
  Mr. and Mrs. T. H. Watress
  Mr. W. A. Webber
  Mr. W. D. Webb
  Mrs. E. Wolfe, and Maid
  Dr. Wm. N. Wilson
  Mrs. Emily Woods
  Mr. H. R. Williams
  Mr. J. S. Wilson


This morning, _Tuesday, 18th_, I awoke after a very "dirty" night,
to find the sun shining, and the sea comparatively calm. Last night we
had a concert; on their requesting some American to lead off the "Star
Spangled Banner," a nice looking elderly man, whom we had called G. O.
M., got up and said perhaps you may be surprised to hear that for one
American who knows "Star Spangled Banner," one hundred and fifty know
"God Save the Queen," upon which we cheered him, and stood up and
_all_ lustily sang "God Save the Queen;" after this dissipation we
added that of an oyster supper and _toddy_! thanks to Mr. Burns.
Here is the Programme of our Concert:--


R.M.S. "OREGON," (Capt. McMickan).

"OREGONIAN COMPANY"

A GRAND CONCERT WILL BE GIVEN TO-NIGHT, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 17th, 1884, IN
AID OF THE LIVERPOOL SEAMEN'S ORPHANAGE. PATRONESS.--CLARA LADY
RAYLEIGH. MANAGERS.--SIGNOR CUNARDO & SIGNOR BURNSEASI

PROGRAMME.

  SONG ........ "Auld Robin Gray" Prima Donna DRAKE.
  SONG ...... "For Ever and for Ever" ... Mrs. E. WOLFE.
  SONG .............. "Sailing" ... Mr. C. E. WILLOUGHBY.
  SOLO FLUTE ............................... Herr DRAKE.
  SONG .................................. Miss PULESTON.
  SONG .......................... Mr. CHANDOS-POLE-GELL.
  SONG ............................. Mr. BRIGHTMAN, A.B.
  SONG (Flute Obligato, Herr Drake) . Prima Donna DRAKE.
  SONG .......................... Mr. J. SWANSTON WILSON.
  STAR SPANGLED BANNER )
                       ) .................. The COMPANY.
  GOD SAVE THE QUEEN   )
  ACCOMPANIST ........... HON. RICHARD STRUTT

AMERICAN MONEY WILL BE TAKEN.

CARRIAGES MAY BE ORDERED FOR 9.30 PM


My cabin is opposite Dick and Hedley's, and the latter has great jokes
about my treatment of my small lady companion! He says she is frightened
to death of me, and is afraid to come into the cabin until I am safe in
my berth! My love for the sea has received a severe check, though I
think no other sea can be as bad and uninteresting as this tremendous
Atlantic! I have not an idea where you are, but hope it is at
Margaret's, and I shall send this there, as the best chance of your
receiving it soon. I shall post this at Queenstown, when Dick will also
telegraph to Augusta at Ampton, and he has asked her to let you know of
our safety a s far as that. The Americans have been singing in choruses
while I have been writing, practising for a concert.


_Tuesday, 18th, eight o'clock p.m._--I hear we shall get to
Queenstown to-morrow morning, about ten o'clock. I have a game of whist
coming on, and there is to be an American concert, "Star Spangled
Banner," and all. Miss Puleston, who I have chaperoned in the
_Oregon_ from New York, is to be left at Queenstown.


_Wednesday, 19th, Queenstown._--The coast has been so pretty, and,
of course, quite smooth, compared to what we have been accustomed to of
late. I got up early, and saw all the sacks of letters, six hundred,
from all parts of the world, carried on men's backs to the tugs on
either side of the _Oregon_, and we parted with Miss Puleston and
some others, and now I must stop as this is going to be posted. We
expect to be at Liverpool some time to-night, and shall leave at once
for Ampton, where I look forward to seeing so many of my dear ones. Dick
and I agree that our happiest days have been the day we reached Quebec,
and the day we left New York, both glorious in weather and scenery!

_Given by Mr. AUGUSTUS CHUR, American, of New York, of German descent,
November 18th, 1884, on "Oregon"_

  My country, 'tis of thee,
  Sweet land of liberty,
    Of thee I sing,
  Land where my Fathers died.
  Land of the Pilgrims' pride,
  From every mountain side
    Let Freedom ring.

  My native country thee,
  Land of the noble free,
    Thy name I love,
  I love thy rocks and rills,
  Thy woods and templed hills,
  My heart with rapture thrills
    Like that above

  Our Father, GOD, to Thee,
  Author of Liberty,
    Thy name we sing.
  Long may our land be bright
  With Freedom's holy light,
  Protect us by Thy might
    Great God our King


_November 19th._--I posted my letter to you at Queenstown. We had
a very pleasant day on deck, and while playing some innocent whist in
the evening, Mr. Burns announced, "We have arrived at Liverpool!" It
seemed so wonderful! We remained at anchor after a very slow, careful
steaming up the river, and it was pretty to watch the lights and the dim
outlines as we passed by.


_20th._--After a tremendous bustle at Custom House, where our
boxes were all opened, but mine only just unfastened, Dick and I started
in the train across country for Suffolk. We wished a hearty good-bye to
our fellow-passengers. It was sad to see poor Mrs. Bogle standing with
her seven children among her great deal boxes, _screwed down_ (for
she had only time on leaving Barbadoes to pack hurriedly), and then to
look at the Custom House officials opening them all--thanks to the
dynamite people, who make this precaution necessary. I must confess I
thoroughly enjoyed our quiet smooth journey. All the time we had a
carriage to ourselves (Hedley remained at Liverpool to visit the Woods
at Birkenhead), and we only changed twice, having our luncheon
comfortably in a basket _en route_, and reached Ingham about seven
o'clock, where the carriage was waiting, and found dear Edward, Lisa,
Augusta, and Rosa Paley at Ampton; Clara and Jack had been staying out,
but returned after dinner when they heard of our arrival. It was so
delightful to be among so many dear ones again, and oh! the luxury of a
large comfortable bed, and how thoroughly I enjoyed it, and the quiet
and beauty of Ampton altogether! I hear you are expected in London
to-morrow. I never lost anything during my whole journey, excepting two
things, which were left behind in our railway car at Winnipeg, owing to
that horrid cook hiding them; but on this journey from Liverpool, my
emerald ring, set with diamonds, must have slipped off my finger, and
could not be found, though I telegraphed, &c., at once; this is an
unpleasant episode.


_P.S. to my Diary._--I spent a fortnight of complete rest and
quiet at Ampton with dear Clara, &c., and was under medical care most of
the time with a bad cough and derangement of liver; notwithstanding, it
was a happy, peaceful time, and I little thought it was my last visit to
that dear old house!

On _Saturday, 3rd January_, soon after my return from Weston, when
I had been visiting Lady Camperdown, the three sisters Beatrice, Clara
and Rosa arrived to tell me that the whole house, excepting the study
and kitchen rooms, was burnt to a _shell_ that morning at three
o'clock! A large children's party had been given Friday evening, and
many people had scarcely left at one o'clock, and Clara was not in bed
till half-past one o'clock. The fire broke out at a quarter to three
o'clock, was discovered by a maid visitor, and nearly everyone had to
leave their bedrooms with only the clothes on their backs, and for some
time Clara and Jack, &c., had not time to think of putting more on,
though it was bitterly cold. Thank God, no one was hurt, and as the fire
spread rapidly, and the cold was very great, there was great cause for
thankfulness. Everyone worked well and showed presence of mind, with one
or two exceptions, and Clara and Jack were calm and active throughout,
but it was a dreadful blow and I felt quite _knocked down_, and did
not recover for some time.

On _Wednesday, 21st January_, I accompanied Clara and Arthur, and
Miss MacCormack to Barton, where Jack joined us from Ampton.

On _Thursday_ we drove over there, and I had the melancholy
satisfaction of seeing the ruins, and trying to find something for Rosa,
who had lost everything; alas! without success.








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