BY
E. M. C.
CONTAINING SOME PATTERNS OF THINGS FOR LITTLE CHILDREN.
LONDON:
HATCHARDS, PICCADILLY.
1882.
LONDON
PRINTED BY STRANGEWAYS AND SONS,
Tower Street, Upper St. Martin’s Lane.
Always cast off loosely, unless directed to the contrary.
The size of wool and pins is important in trying a pattern. Wools necessarily vary, both in quality and price; the best kinds to use for babies’ boots are Merino, Andalusian, 2-thread Lady Betty, and Eider yarn. Penelope wool is a trifle thicker, and is sold in 2-oz. skeins. Small-sized things can be increased by using larger pins and coarser wool: for instance, the smallest boot in this book can be made to fit a much older baby by using Berlin fingering and bone pins, No. 13.
To increase, or make.—With your right-hand pin knit through the lower part of the next stitch as well as through the next stitch. Or, if at the beginning of a row, knit the first stitch, then knit again through it from the back. Or, put the wool before the needle, but this makes a hole. Or, cast on another stitch, and then knit it.
To decrease.—Knit 2 stitches at the same time so as to make 1 out of the 2. Or, slip a stitch from the left pin to the right without knitting it, knit the next stitch, then with your left pin pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one.
To pearl, or purl, or seam.—Bring the wool in front of the knitting, and insert the needle the reverse way through the stitch. Replace the wool in its right place.
To raise, or pick up.—Put your right needle through the knitting, put the wool round the needle, and draw the wool through the knitting.
THE STANDARD OF MEASUREMENT FOR THE KNITTING PINS IS CHAMBERS’ BELL GAUGE.
This fastens behind, and fits a child of about eight months’ old; it is very elastic, and quite an easy pattern.
You require 3 pins No. 8, and 2 ounces Berlin fingering.
Cast on 133 stitches; rib, by knitting 1, pearling 1 all the way through, taking care that the knitted of one row is the pearled of the other row. Work for 32 rows, then work backwards and forwards on 34 stitches only, for 19 rows. Then leave this wool and 8 pin for a time, you will go on with them presently.
Go on with the middle; fasten the wool next to the piece you have just done, and cast off three stitches, this goes under the arm; work upon the next 59 for 18 rows, break off the wool.
Knit off the stitches on the right-hand pin, the one you had left with the wool attached, knit the centre 59 stitches, knitting in the end of wool to fasten it off securely. Then leave these 93 for a time.
Work the remaining side for 18 rows, and in the 19th you must have all your stitches again on one pin, namely, 129. The casting off has made the ribs uneven, so keep the 2 plain stitches, which come together, as the shoulder seam. These 2 stitches are opposite the cast-off stitches.
In every row decrease on each side of these 2 thus:—Slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over, knit the 2 shoulder stitches, 9 knit 2 together. This makes 4 decreasings in a row. Do 12 rows, then 3 rows without decreasing, and make the ribs even now, by knitting 2 together at the shoulder. Cast off.
Sleeve.—Hold the shoulder towards you, and pick up 9 stitches rather close together; the 5th of these 9 stitches ought to be exactly at the shoulder; pearl back. Always cast on two more stitches at the beginning of every row, until you have 42 stitches; you must knit and pearl alternate rows, making the plain side of sleeve the right side of the spencer.
When you have done 53 rows use steel pins, No. 12, and knit 2 pearl, 2 for 6 rows. Cast off, sew together on the wrong side, then sew in the sleeve.
This will fit a child of ten months old.
You require 6 skeins of the palest blue Berlin fingering. Be careful to use the pins as directed, for the goring of the skirt is managed without decreasings.
Cast on with pins No. 3, 264 stitches.
Knit a row, pearl a row, knit a row, pearl a row, knit a row.
6th row. Knit 1, bring the wool forward, knit 3, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 2 together, knit 3, wool forward, knit 1.
7th row. Pearl.
8th row. This and every alternate row is like the 5th.
9th row. Pearl.
11th row. Pearl.
13th row. Knit; also knit the 15th and 17th rows; then go back to the 5th row.
When 34 rows are done, use pins No. 5. At the 61st row use pins No. 8.
77th row. Like 5th, but omit bringing the wool forward.
78th row. Use steel pins No. 12; you ought to have now 220 stitches. Decrease about every 9th stitch by pearling 2 together, so as to reduce your number of stitches to 192.
74th row *. Bring the wool forward, slip 1, inserting the pin as though you were going to pearl it, knit 2 together; repeat from *. Do 48 rows in this manner. Note that each chain is 2 rows.
123rd row. Knit 54, that is, 18 sets of 3. Leave the other stitches. With a third steel pin, No. 12, knit back on these 54 still with the brioche stitch.
2nd row. Knit 51 (or 17 sets), knit the 3 last together, omitting to bring the wool forward.
3rd row. Slip 1 in the usual way, brioche the rest. You must always decrease at the 12 end in every alternate row for the slope. Of course these decreasings come at the end nearest the middle.
When you have decreased to 42, do 9 rows without decreasings. The body ought at this side to be 68 rows deep; you are at the beginning of a row; leave these stitches now, do not break off the wool.
Take another ball, join the end with a wool needle, work upon the centre 84 stitches; slip the last 54 upon a piece of wool.
Decrease at each end of the 84 until you have only 69, then work without decreasing until this part is the same length as the other. Leave these stitches and break off the wool; take care that the wool is at the right-hand end.
Do the last side to match the first, and then leave the body until the sleeves are ready.
Sleeve.—Cast on 56 with the steel pins No. 12, knit a row, pearl a row, knit a row.
4th row. Knit 1, wool forward, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over, knit 2 together, knit 1, wool forward, knit 1.
4th row. Pearl. Repeat alternately, but the 11th, 13th, and 15th rows are knitted.
18th row. Use pins No. 8.
20th row. Slip the 1st, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over. Continue as usual, but decrease at the end by omitting to put the wool forward.
21st row. Pearl 2 together at the beginning and end of every row. In the 22nd row, knit 3 together to make the pattern even.
32nd row. Cast off 4 stitches, knit 25, cast off the last 4; break off the wool and fasten it in with a wool needle.
Now go on with the body. Begin from the right side where you had left your ball of wool. Still use pins No. 12. Plain knitting, taking the stitch and the wool before it as 1; consequently you have 36 14 plain stitches on this pin now. Knit off the 27 sleeve stitches from the No. 8 pin. The remainder is all plain knitting. Knit the centre stitches, knit off the 27 of your second sleeve, knit the last 54. You ought to have 154 stitches altogether. Do 2 plain rows.
3rd row. Knit 3, knit 2 together alternately.
4th row. Put the wool round the needle every third stitch (above the decreasing in previous row). This makes holes for running in a ribbon as a fastening. Do 2 more plain rows. Leave this part; do not break off the wool.
Edging for Neck.—Cast on 184 with pins No. 12, and work like sleeve for 7 rows. Lay this pin beside the neck, and cast off through both at once, so as to join the two; but remember that the edging has 30 more stitches than the neck, so you must occasionally take 2 of the border stitches together. 15 It is easier to do this with a bone crochet-hook than with a knitting-pin.
Make button-hole by pulling aside the stitches and working over. The buttons ought to be small, flat moulds, covered with crochet.
It is a good plan to match the sash for the frock with the wool first, as it is not possible to get in all shades a good match for silk and wool.
This is a very simple and quick pattern to fit a little child; it is meant to be sewn to the stays.
Use pins No. 9 and white Scotch fingering. Cast on 150 stitches and knit plain for 8 inches. Use finer pins for 2 more inches. Then use steel pins, No. 16, and knit 2, pearl 2, for 6 rows. Cast off. Pull out the knitting a good deal while you are measuring. This particular work looks better with the rows wide apart.
The crown is done in crochet, treble or double round and round until large enough, increasing wherever necessary to make it lie flat. The improvement is to make the brim of knitting instead of crochet. Use single Berlin wool, wheeling, or fingering yarn.
For an ordinary size, to measure 22 inches, 114 stitches.
Pick up with 3 pins, No. 14, 38 on each pin, knit 2, pearl 2 for 14 rounds, and cast off very loosely. A tight knitter had better cast on 6 more, as this pattern is for a loose knitter.
For a child of 4 years have 35 stitches on 2 pins, and 36 on the third, and rib 2 plain, 2 pearl.
Cast on in sixes.
1st row. Bring the wool forward before the needle, knit 1, wool forward, knit 1, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 1.
2nd row. This and every alternate row pearled.
3rd row. Wool forward, knit 3, wool forward, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over.
5th row. Knit 1, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slipped over, knit 1, wool forward, knit 1, wool forward.
7th row. Slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slipped over, wool forward, knit 3, wool forward.
Always cast on 2 or 4 stitches over, so as to have 1 or 2 stitches plain at the beginning of each row.
Notice that an open-work pattern of a sock is broader than plain knitting: it is as well to have a few less stitches for open-work knitting than for plain knitting.
This is full size for a child of a year old; the leg is 7 inches, and the foot 5¾ long, inclusive measurement. 4 pins, No. 16, and 1 skein Shetland wool. For a smaller sized sock use pins No. 17.
Cast on 71 stitches, rib 2 plain, 2 pearl, for 18 rows, making the 1st stitch the seam-stitch; that is, you pearl this stitch every 3rd round. Then plain knitting until the leg is 4½ inches deep. Now, work the seam-stitch, knit 2 together, and when you come to the last 2 stitches of the round slip 1, knit 1, pass the 20 slipped stitch over. Knit 10 rounds and repeat this decreasing. When 5¼ inches are done, divide your stitches for the heel.
Heel.—Put 17 stitches on each side of the seam-stitch, have them all on one pin; you ought to have 35 stitches for your heel. You leave the other 32 stitches on the 2 remaining pins. Knit and pearl alternate rows upon these heel-stitches for 2 inches, still making the seam stitch.
When this piece measures 2 inches long you turn the heel.
* Knit to the seam-stitch. Knit that stitch, for henceforward you cease making it. Knit 4, knit 2 together, knit 1. Turn back, pearl 11, pearl 2 together, pearl 1. Turn back and repeat from *.
You perceive the actual turning of the heel is all on 13 stitches.
Pick up 17 from the side of heel, knit the 32, pick up 17 from the second side, and now you knit in rounds again. You have 79 21 stitches. Reduce at each side every 2nd row until you have only 67. When the foot measures 4½ inches long, decrease for the toe at each side, thus:—Slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over, knit 2, knit 2 together. Knit the middle 33 stitches, and repeat the decreasings; in this way you get rid of 4 stitches. Do this every other row. When 5½ inches are done, measuring from the outside of heel, draw the stitches together with a needle, or knit together by dividing on to 2 needles, or cast off and sew up.
The sock is knitted in Shetland and the shoe in Penelope wool. 2 pins, No. 15, and 2 No. 17.
Cast on 27 stitches for the sole, which is all plain knitting. Increase at the end of every row until you have 36 stitches. Discontinue increasing now, and knit 3, pearl 3, for 3 rows.
Then change the squares to make an even pattern; pearling where you had knitted in the previous row.
Go on in this way for 12 rows. Work 24 stitches, then slip them on a piece of wool. Work the other 12 stitches and knit twice into the last stitch. Increase twice at this side at the end of every row for 7 rows, until you have 20 stitches. Be careful to keep the squares even. Do one row without increasing, then decrease at the same place at 23 the beginning and at the end of every row until you have 12 again. Cast on 24 more stitches opposite the other side. Do 12 rows of the pattern, then decrease at each end until you have only 27. Cast off.
Go on with the 24 which you had slipped on a piece of wool, slip the point of the pin through 12 stitches from the front across the instep, then run it through the 24 stitches which you had cast on for the second side. This makes 60 altogether. Knit a row, pearl a row, alternately; the pearled rows come on the right side of the shoe and make a roll. Do 4 rows and cast off.
With the Shetland and pins No. 16 raise 16 stitches quite underneath the roll at the instep (where you had picked up the 12), knit and pearl alternate rows 18 times. Be careful that the plain rows come on the right side.
19th row. Raise 23 on the left side, pearl back on these 39 stitches, raise 23 from the 24 next side. Knit alternate pearl and plain rows for 28 rows, rib for 10 rows and cast off very loosely. Sew up very carefully, especially at the toe; it is a very good shape if not made too broad.
Strap.—Cast on 17 with pins No. 15 and Penelope wool; fasten to the heel by knitting on 5 stitches behind the roll, working through the heel-stitches of the boot; cast on 17 more stitches: you ought to have 39 altogether. Knit 2 plain rows.
3rd row. Knit 2, knit 2 together, wool forward; repeat. Knit 2 more plain rows, and cast off. Make a crochet chain or twist of wool and run it through these holes; add a ball at each end of it.
Merino or Andalusian wool, and pins No. 14.
All these patterns can have the sock worked in white, and the shoe part in a colour, but all white is preferable.
Cast on 48, and do 14 rows of ribbed knitting. Then knit a row, pearl a row for 2 inches; or work this part in any open-work pattern, of which there are so many in The Lady’s Knitting-Books, especially on page 56 of 1st Series.
1st row of instep. Knit 18; leave these stitches for a time: you can slip them on a piece of wool, and knit backwards and forwards on the centre 12 stitches for 18 rows. Suppose you have made the leg open-work knitting, this must be done the same. You can slip the last 18 stitches also on a piece of wool.
19th row. If you are using two colours, you must now join the coloured wool, which is used for the remainder of the boot. Plain knitting.
20th row. Knit.
21st row. Pearl.
22nd row. Knit.
23rd row. Knit. Pearl the next row, and continue thus to make ridges of 3 lines. When 4 ridges are done, you must decrease for the toe. Pearl the 12 stitches as usual to keep the ridges even. Then for the 13th row work thus:—Slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 6, knit 2 together, knit 6, knit 2 together, knit 1.
14th row. Pearl.
15th row. Like 13th, but knit 4 instead of 6.
16th row. Knit.
17th row. Pearl 1, pearl 2 together, pearl 2, pearl 2 together, pearl 1.
18th row. Slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 2, knit the last 2 together. 27 This finishes the toe. Break off the wool and fasten in the end.
Go on with the right-hand pin which has the 18 stitches on it; knit these off, then raise 24 from the side; knit the 4 toe stitches. Now take a third pin (you only use it once, so it does not matter if it is not the same size) and run through the 18 stitches you had slipped on the piece of wool, and raise 24 from the side of instep: knit these off. You have now 88 stitches altogether. Pearl the next row, knit the next 2, and so on, to keep the ridges even. Do 4 of these ridges.
13th row. You have the wrong side of the knitting towards you. Knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 31, knit 2 together, knit 12, knit 2 together, knit 31, knit 2 together, knit 3.
14th row. Pearl.
15th row. Knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 30, knit 2 together, knit 10, knit 2 together, knit 30, knit 2 together, knit 3.
16th row. Pearl.
17th row. Knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 29, knit 2 together, knit 8, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 29, knit 2 together, knit 3.
18th row. As usual.
19th row. Knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 28, knit 2 together, knit 6, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 28, knit 2 together, knit 3.
Slip half your stitches on another pin, lay the pins alongside, and cast off through both stitches at once.
Strap.—Cast on 20 stitches; then cast on 5 more, at the same time drawing the wool through the shoe itself, exactly in the centre of the upper ridge at the heel. This makes 45 altogether; pearl back.
2nd row. Knit 1, knit 3 together, knit the rest.
3rd. Pearl 41, pearl into the long stitch, pearl again into it by twisting it, pearl the 29 last. Knit the next row and cast off. Sew a button to the other side.
This pattern is very pretty, with the leg and open-work pattern done in Shetland wool. In either silk or Shetland, and pins No. 17, cast on 64 stitches, have 14 for the instep, which must be about 18 rows long. Then join the Andalusian wool for the ridges, which make the toe, and do the shoe also in Andalusian.
You require a skein of Shetland wool, and one of Penelope yarn, two pins No. 16, and two bone No. 13. With pins No. 16, cast on 72 stitches. You can use the same number of stitches for silk. Knit the 1st and 3rd rows, pearl the 2nd.
4th row. Knit 1, wool forward, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over, knit 2 together, knit 1, wool forward, knit 1. Repeat.
5th row. Plain.
Repeat these two rows for 2½ inches. Cast off 26, knit 46. In the next row cast off 24 stitches, and work backwards and forwards, keeping the pattern even, upon the middle 20 stitches. Pearl the alternate rows. Work 22 rows, cast off.
Boot.—The coarser wool and pins. Cast on 28, knit the first row. Then always increase 31 at the end of every row until you have 38 stitches. Do 15 rows without increasing.
Toe.—21st row. Work only on 13 stitches, leaving 25 unworked. You can slip these on a piece of wool. Increase 1 at the end of every row; this increasing is at the end farthest away from the 25 stitches. When you have 23 stitches, decrease at the same place every alternate row, by knitting the last 2 together until you have 13 again. Cast on 25 more for the second side, do 15 plain rows, then decrease at the end of each row, until you have only 28 stitches. Cast off.
Go on with those on the third pin. Raise 12 on the instep, raise the stitches you first cast on. You ought to have 63 stitches. Join the wool; knit a row, pearl a row, knit a row, pearl a row, cast off. Sew the Shetland part to the Penelope, beginning at the instep, then sew from the heel, so as to be sure that the sock shall be put in 32 exactly even. Last of all, sew up the boot; all this sewing to be on the wrong side, of course.
Make the strap as described in either of the previous patterns. The last is advised.
This pattern can be knitted in a quicker way for common wear by doing it entirely in Penelope wool.
For full size use bone pins No. 13. Cast on 34 for the sole; work the boot as described, only allow for these extra 6 stitches; then do the roll, for which you raise 15 at the instep. It does not signify whether the roll curls inward or outward, that is a matter of taste. Begin the sock at the instep by raising 14 stitches, knit and pearl alternate rows, to look like a stocking, for 11 rows, then raise the last 14 on each side, and knit all the 42 stitches, pearl the alternate rows.
Do 16 rows, rib 12 rows, cast off very loosely.
Knitted with white and coloured wool, any fine kind, and coarse needles. You must increase at the end of every row.
Cast on 5 with white and pearl them. Slip the first, wool forward, knit 3, slip the first of these over the other 2.
This makes the daisy. Knit the other 2. Now join the colour and pearl back. The alternate rows are always pearled, and you must always change the colour then.
The next row is fancy knitting, and is always alike. When there is 1 stitch left you knit plain, and increase as usual; but when there are 2 you pick up another between, so as to have the 3 stitches necessary for the pattern.
This is quite easy work. It is very soft and warm, and is meant to take the place of 34 a long first cloak. It is all plain knitting with a good border.
You require 1½ lb. of white Berlin fingering wool and long wooden pins, No. 3.
Cast on 1 stitch and increase at the end of every row until the knitting measures 1 yard and 5 inches deep, then decrease by knitting the last 2 in every row together, until you have only 2. Cast them off.
Border.—Work 1 round of double crochet.
2nd round. 1 long treble (wool twice round the hook), 1 chain, miss 1. Repeat.
3rd round. Do 2 rounds of fan-pattern (page 16 of The Lady’s Crochet-Book, third Series). Increase at the corners.
6th round. Work 8 treble into a hole, miss a hole, 1 single into the next, and so on to make a scallop.
Run a thick cream satin ribbon all round the shawl in the spaces left by the long treble.
Index of Things to be found in ‘The Lady’s Knitting-Books,’ Parts I., II., III., and IV. The Number of Part is given.
| A | |
|---|---|
| Antimacassars | Parts I., III., IV. |
| Arrow Pattern | I. |
| B | |
| Baby’s Boots | I., II., III., IV. |
| ” Hood | I., II. |
| ” Quilt | I. |
| Bag | III., IV. |
| Balls | III. |
| Berceaunette Blanket | III. |
| ” Cover | I., III. |
| Bodices | I., IV. |
| Borders | I., III. |
| Braces | IV. |
| Brioche Knitting | I. |
| C | |
| Cable Knitting | I. |
| Canadian Cloud | I. |
| Cardinal Cape | III. |
| Carriage Rug | I., III., IV. |
| Child’s Chemise | III. |
| Comforter | I. |
| Counterpanes | I., II., III. |
| Couvrettes | I., II., III., IV. |
| Crimean Helmet | II. |
| Cushion | I., IV. |
| D | |
| Double Knitting | I. |
| E | |
| Edgings | I., III. |
| F | |
| Fancy Stitches | I., II., III., IV. |
| Fringe | I. |
| Frock | III. |
| G | |
| Gaiters | I., II. |
| Gloves | IV. |
| H | |
| Hassock | III. |
| Hearth Rug | I. |
| Hood | II. |
| J | |
| Jackets | IV. |
| Jerseys | I., III. |
| K | |
| Knee-cap | I. |
| L | |
| Loop Knitting | I. |
| M | |
| Mittens | III., IV. |
| Muff | II. |
| Muffatees | I., III., IV. |
| N | |
| Night Sock | I. |
| O | |
| Open-work Patterns | I., II., III., IV. |
| Opera Cloak | II., III. |
| P | |
| Pence Jugs | I., II. |
| Petticoats | I., II., III., IV. |
| Pincushion | II. |
| Purse | I. |
| Q | |
| Quilts (see Counterpanes). | |
| S | |
| Scalloped Edging | I., III. |
| Scotch Cap for Pence | III. |
| Shawls | I. |
| Sleeves | III. |
| Slipper with Warm Lining | IV. |
| Socks | I. |
| Sofa Blankets | IV. |
| Stockings | I. |
| ” on Two Pins | III. |
| Swiss Brioche Stitch | III. |
| T | |
| Tea Cosey | II., IV. |
| Tippets | II., III. |
| Towel | IV. |
| U | |
| University Boating Jersey | III. |
| V | |
| Veil | II. |
| Vests | I., II., III., IV. |
| W | |
| Waistcoats | I. |
| Window Curtains | III. |
| Work for Poor People | IV. |
N.B.—The 13 Series in handsome box, price 15s.
Over 160,000 Copies of the above Series have been sold.
HATCHARDS, 187 PICCADILLY, LONDON.
And all Booksellers and Berlin-Wool Warehousemen.