Book 1760 Price $150
BEGINNERS AND ADVANCED DESIGNS
KNITTING AND CROCHET, TOO!
® REG. TRADE MARK
Step 1: Remove cross bar from bottom of hairpin lace loom. Loom is held with round end up (or remaining bar up if adjustable loom). Form a slip loop ½ the width of loom, place left prong through loop (illustration #1), replace cross bar.
Step 2: Pass yarn around right side of loom and across back ([illustration #2]), insert crochet hook in loop and pull until knot is at center, pick up yarn and pull through loop (illustration #3), remove hook from loop.
Step 3: Insert hook in dropped loop from back (illustration #4) turn loom toward you from right to left, passing yarn around back of loom, chain 1 (illustration #5) sc in front loop to left of center sts, (illustration #6) drop loop from hook.
(Note: If easier for you, do not drop hook from loop before turning, but pass shank of crochet hook through to back of loom and then turn and proceed as in step 3 after turn.)
STEP 1 · STEP 2 · STEP 3 · STEP 4 · STEP 5 · STEP 6
KEEPING TWIST: To keep twist in loops, insert crochet hook from back to front in loops, then follow directions given.
WORKING LOOPS STRAIGHT: Insert crochet hook from front to back in loops, then follow directions given.
When joining strips they sometimes have a tendency to ride uphill or to one side. We therefore suggest the following method of joining. Alternating from strip to strip, with starting end always on the right, insert hook in 2 right loops of 1st strip and pull through 1st 2 left loops of 2nd strip, then 2 loops on 1st strip, etc. until all loops are joined. Fasten off.
Insert crochet hook in 2 left loops of 3rd strip, pull 2 right loops of 2nd strip through, etc.
Insert hook in 2 right loops of 3rd strip, pull through 2 left loops of 4th strip, then 2 loops of 3rd strip, etc.
Insert hook in 2 left loops of 5th strip, pull through 2 right loops of 4th strip, then 2 loops of 5th strip. Finish all last loops by pulling remaining length at center of strip through last loop, bring end back to center and work back through several sts at center. Conceal all ends.
COUNTING LOOPS: There must always be same number of loops on EACH side of loom. When a large number of loops are required use a SUSAN BATES® marker to mark the 50th or the 100th loop on each side, then count from marker. This will be a time saver.
FULL LOOM: Remove cross bar, slip all but 3 or 4 loops off loom. Replace bar and roll loops up; secure with SUSAN BATES® 4½ inch stitch holder to back of work to prevent stretching of loops while continuing strip.
GAUGE: Measure the stitches at center of loom; if you get more stitches than called for, change to a larger crochet hook; if you get less stitches than called for, change to a smaller hook.
Make one strip each 80-85-90-100 loops. Cut felt to shape of collar, approximately 4 inches wide. For a larger collar, cut felt wider and add strips, being sure each strip is at least 5 loops (each side) longer.
Starting at neck edge, with overcast stitch at center of strip sew 80 loop strip ¼ inch from neck edge. Space the next four strips so that the last one (100 loops) comes about ¼ inch from the outside edge.
CUFFS: Make two more strips of hairpin lace to fit sleeves. Sew ½ inch from edge.
| ABBREVIATIONS | |
|---|---|
| St | stitch |
| sl st | slip stitch |
| ch | chain |
| lp | loop |
| hk | hook |
| sc | single crochet |
| dc | double crochet |
| hdc | half double crochet |
| trc | treble crochet |
| dtrc | double treble crochet |
| yo | yarn over |
| tog | together |
| inc | increase |
| dec | decrease |
| K | Knit |
| P | Purl |
| sk | skip |
Design by BARBARA O’BRIEN
With white, work 9 strips of hairpin lace each having 397 loops on each side of staple. Working on first strip with blue or contrasting color sc through first 5 lps inserting hook through all 5 lps at one time and keeping loops straight. Do not twist, ** ch 5, * sc through next loop but twist loop twice. Repeat from * twice, ch 5, sc through next 5 lps, keeping lps straight. Repeat from ** across strip. Ch 6, sl st in center of strip, ch 6 and work down other side of strip in same way. At end of strip ch 6, sl st in center of strip, ch 6 and fasten off in corner loop.
2nd Strip: Join blue in corner loop, ch 6, sl st in center of strip, ch 6 then work down 1 side. At end of row ch 6, sl st in center of strip, ch 6.
You are now ready to join to first strip.
TO JOIN: Sc through first 5 loops of free edge of 2nd strip, ch 2, join to center st of 1st lp of 1st strip (to join: drop lp from hk, insert in st, pull lp through), * ch 2, 1 sc in each of the next 3 lps of 2nd strip (twist each lp twice), ch 2, join to center st of next lp of 1st strip, ch 2, sc through next 5 lps of 2nd strip, keeping lps straight, ch 2, join to center st of next lp of 1st strip, repeat from * across strip.
Work and join all strips as above.
Your Notes:
As seen in color on our front cover, photographed in Morocco
Yarn is used double. Each loop has two strands of yarn but is still called a single loop.
Edgings on both afghan and pillow are made on a 3-inch loom, even though the afghan is made on a 4-inch.
AFGHAN: With 4-inch loom and J-10 crochet hook, make strips of 130 lps each on each side of loom as follows: 6-purple, 7-blue, 12-white.
To join: Starting with blue strip, join to white strip (as per instructions below), then join to purple strip, then to white ... continue thus for length of afghan, ending with blue strip.
Join loops by pulling 2 lps through 2 lps, always starting at the same end. When all strips are joined, weave in all ends, and finish as follows. Finish sides of afghan by pulling 2 lps through 2 lps. Fasten last 2 lps securely. Attach double yarn at corner, and working along ends, sc in corner, * ch 2, sc in next lp. Repeat from * across, ending ch 2, sc in corner st. Ch 1, turn.
ROW 2: Sc in first st. Then work * 2 sc in ch 2 space, sc in next sc. Repeat from * across. Fasten off. Work other end of afghan the same way.
EDGING: With purple yarn and 3-inch crochet loom, and working on one side of loom, make 2 strips each of 200 lps, and 2 each of 150 lps.
To Make Edging: Edging is worked in the same way as regular strips, but instead of working the single crochet down the center of the loom, it is worked close to one prong. This will make the loops on one side of strip longer than the other. With J-10 crochet hook, and working on smallest loops, pull 2 lps through 2 lps all the way across each strip. If you prefer, the long loop may be cut for a fringe effect.
Sew the longer strips to the sides, and the shorter ones to the ends, easing them around the corners, keeping them flat.
Make 18 strips each of 42 lps each side as follows:
6—blue
4—purple
8—white
Join by pulling 2 lps through 2 lps as follows: Starting with blue strip continue with white, purple, white, blue, white, purple, white, blue, blue, white, purple, white, blue, white, purple, white, blue. When all strips have been joined, join the first strip to the last. Weave in all ends. Slip pillow form in and sew both ends.
EDGING: With purple yarn and 3-inch crochet loom and working on one side of loom, make a strip of approximately 200 lps, or enough to go around pillow. Finish short loops by pulling 2 lps through 2 lps, and sew to pillow.
Your Notes:
Designs by BARBARA O’BRIEN
With first color, chain 5, join with slip stitch to form ring.
ROUND 1: Ch 3 (to count as 1 dc throughout), work 2 dc in ring, ch 2 (for corner space), * work 3 dc in ring (shell made), ch 2, repeat from * twice, join in top of ch 3. Fasten off.
Each round is worked from the right side—DO NOT TURN.
ROUND 2: With second color, make a loop on hook, sl st in any ch-2 space, ch 3, 2 dc in same space, ch 2 (for corner), work a shell in same space, ch 1, * work a shell, ch 2, a shell in next ch-2 space, ch 1, repeat from * twice; join in top of ch 3. Fasten off.
ROUND 3: With first color, make a loop on hook, sl st in any corner ch-2 space, ch 3, 2 dc in same space, ch 2 (for corner), work a shell in same space, ch 1, * skip next shell, work a shell in next space, ch 1, skip next shell, work a shell, ch 2, a shell in next corner, ch 1, repeat from * around; join in top of ch 3. Fasten off.
ROUND 4: With main color, make a loop on hook, sl st in any corner ch-2 space, ch 3, 2 dc in same space, ch 2, work a shell in same space, ch 1, * skip next shell, work a shell in next space, ch 1, skip next shell, work a shell in next space, ch 1, skip next shell, work a shell, ch 2, a shell in same corner space, ch 1, repeat from * twice, ch 1, shell in next space, ch 1, join in top of ch 3. Fasten off.
Make 4 motifs. Sew together to form strip, sewing through back loop only. Attach yarn just before corner on top edge, ch 1, work 1 sc in each st around strip, and 3 sc in each corner st. Join with a slip st. Ch 1, work a second row of sc around, stitch for stitch, and 3 sc in each corner st. Join with a slip st. Fasten off.
Join yarn at corner and work 19 sc across top edge of tie. Place marker at end of row. This will bring work to opposite corner, ch 1, turn. The remainder of tie is worked back and forth in single crochet.
Next Row: Sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. Continue in this manner for 4½ inches from marker.
Decrease Row: * Pick up a loop in first st, pick up a loop in second st, y o hook and pull through all 3 loops (1 decrease made). Work to last 2 sts and repeat the decrease, ch 1, turn. Work 1 row even.
Repeat last 2 rows 4 times (9 sts).
Work even on 9 sts until tie measures 52″ or desired length.
Line if desired same as ascot, being sure to cut lining on the bias.
Starting with No. 8 needles and main color, cast on 36 sts. Divide on 3 needles—DO NOT TWIST STITCHES—and work around in stripe pattern as follows:
7 rows Main Color; 7 rows color A; 7 rows color B; 7 rows color A. Continue to work in stripe pattern as established (7 rows MC; 7 rows A; 7 rows B; 7 rows A) until 12 pattern stripes have been completed.
Change to No. 6 needles and work 5 more pattern stripes ending with MC. Remainder of tie will be worked in main color.
Decrease row: * k 2, k 2 tog, k 2, k 2 tog, k 2, k 2 tog, k 2, k 2 tog, k 2, repeat from * once more (28 sts).
Change to No. 4 needles and work until piece measures 54 inches, or desired length. Steam lightly. Sew ends.
continuation from page 22
GAUGE: 7 sts = 1 inch.
Cast on 3 sts.
Row 1: K 1; in next st k, p, k; k 1 (5 sts).
Row 2: K 2; in next st k, p, k; k 2 (7 sts).
Row 3: K 3, yo, k 1, yo, k 3.
Row 4 and all even rows: K 3, p to last 3 sts, k 3.
Row 5: K 3, yo, k 3, yo, k 3.
Row 7: K 3, yo, k 5, yo, k 3.
Row 9: K 3, yo, k 7, yo, k 3.
Row 11: K 3, yo, k 9, yo, k 3.
Row 13: K 3, yo, k 11, yo, k 3.
Row 15: K 3, yo, k 13, yo, k 3.
Row 17: K 3, yo, k 15, yo, k 3.
Row 19: K 3, yo, k 17, yo, k 3.
Row 21: K 3, yo, k 19, yo, k 3.
Row 23: K 3, yo, k 21, yo, k 3.
Row 25: K 3, yo, k 23, yo, k 3.
Row 27: K 3, yo, k 25, yo, k 3.
Row 29: K 3, yo, k 27, yo, k 3 (35 sts).
Row 30: K 3, p to last 3 sts, k 3.
Row 31: Knit.
Repeat last 2 rows until piece measures 14 inches from beginning, ending with purl row (row 30).
Decrease as follows:
Row 1: K 3, k 2 tog working through back of sts, k to last 5 sts, k 2 tog in front of sts, k 3.
Row 2: K 3, p to last 3 sts, k 3.
Row 3: Knit.
Row 4: K 3, p to last 3 sts, k 3.
Repeat last 4 rows until 11 sts remain.
Work even on 11 sts for 6 inches. Bind off.
Work a second piece as above. Sew bound-off edges together in center.
LINING:
Block ascot and pin to lining material on the bias. Cut lining ½ inch larger than ascot for seam allowance.
Turn under seam allowance and stitch to ascot.
DICK · HARRY · TOM
As seen in color on our back cover photographed in Morocco
Design by BARBARA O’BRIEN
Your Notes:
GAUGE: 5 sc = 1 inch at center of strip.
Make 5 strips each of hairpin lace with 300 lps on each side of strips.
FINISH STRIPS: When 300 lps are made and before taking loops from loom, ch 10. Now slide all loops from loom and work as follows. Insert hook through first 5 lps and work 1 sc, * ch 6, 1 sc in next group of 5 lps, repeat from * to end of strip, ch 10, 1 sc in center of hairpin lace strip, ch 10, and work up other side of strip the same as the first side, ch 10, and sl st in center of strip. Fasten off. Repeat for remaining 4 strips.
TO JOIN STRIPS: Row 1: join yarn in first group of first strip, ch 6, 1 sc in first ch-6 space, * ch 6, 1 sc in next ch-6 space, repeat from * across, ending ch 6, 1 sc in sc of last group, ch 6, turn.
ROW 2: 1 sc in first ch-6 space, * ch 6, 1 sc in next ch-6 space, repeat from * across row ending with ch 6, turn.
ROW 3: 1 sc in first group of 2nd strip, ch 3, 1 sc in first ch-6 space of first strip, ch 3, 1 sc in next ch-6 space of 2nd strip, * ch 3, 1 sc in next ch-6 space of first strip, ch 3, 1 sc in next ch-6 space of 2nd strip, repeat from * across row, ending ch 3, sl st in last group. Fasten off. Join remaining strips in the same way.
Join yarn to first group of 5 lps, ** ch 6, sc in same group, * ch 6, sc in next ch-6 space, repeat from * across row ending ch 6, sc in last group. Ch 6, sc in same group. Working across end, * ch 6, sc in next space. Repeat from * across, ending with sc in first group of other side. Repeat from ** once. Join with a sl st. Fasten off.
FRINGE: Using a 10-inch cardboard, wrap yarn around enough times so you have 6 strands for each ch-6 space across both short ends. Cut yarn at one end. With 6 strands folded in half, pull folded end through first ch-6 space. Now slip loose ends through folded section, and pull knot up close to work. Work 1 group of fringe in each ch-6 space across each end. Trim fringe even.
For Sizes 14-16, make two strips of 92 lps each for back.
Finish each strip as follows:
After last loop is made, ch 6, slip loops off loom being careful not to twist. Make a sc through first 4 lps, * ch 4, make a sc through next 4 lps. Repeat from * across strip. Ch 6, sc in center of strip, ch 6, and work down other side of strip in the same way. At end of strip, ch 6, sl st in center and fasten off. Join strips as follows, putting them together as shown in diagrams. Sl st in top of cluster on first strip, ch 1, sl st in top of cluster on second strip, ch 1, sk 1 ch on first strip, and sl st in next ch. Continue to work back and forth with a sl st in every other ch, alternating from one side to the other, with a ch 1 in between, being careful to keep patterns even.
| Sizes 10-12 | Sizes 14-16 |
|---|---|
| 60 | 60 |
| 200 | 200 |
| 200 | 200 |
| 92 | 92 |
| 200 | 92 |
| 200 | 200 |
| 60 | 200 |
| 60 |
continuation from page 22
When pieces are all joined, fold over at shoulders, and join side fronts to underarm strips. Work a row of s c around armholes, working 3 s c in each ch-4 chain, and 10 s c across underarm. Work 2 more rows, working 1 s c in each s c. Work s c around outside of vest as follows: Starting at lower right front, work 4 s c in each ch-4 chain (skipping the ch 1 which forms the cluster), 6 s c in each ch-6 chain, 4 s c in each ch-4 chain down left side, 3 s c in corner cluster st, 6 s c in each ch-6 space across bottom, and 3 s c in lower cluster st on right front. Work 2 more rows of s c, st for st, working 3 sts in each lower corner. If desired: Make a chain 40 inches long for closing.
Designs by BARBARA O’BRIEN
Gauge: s c—5 st—1 inch
Make two.
Ch 9. S c in second chain from hook, and in each ch across (8 s c). Ch 1, turn. Work 1 s c in each s c across, ch 1, turn. Work 6 more rows the same as the last one. Ch 26, and sl st to beginning of the last row. Work 7 s c down the side of the square, 7 s c along bottom, and 7 s c up the other side, and 26 s c along across chain.
Work 7 more rows of s c around. Fasten off. Sew together across bottom, gathering in heel and toe slightly, so they will not come to a point. Attach yarn at top of bootee on one side, and ch 3, sk 1 st, d c in next st, * ch 1, sk 1 st, d c in next st. Repeat from * around, ending ch 1, sl st to top of ch 3.
Row 2: Work 2 s c in each ch-1 space around. Sl st to first st, fasten off.
Make 2 strips each of hairpin lace with 48 lps on each side.
Join strips by pulling 3 lps through 3 lps. Join end to form a circle. Finish outside edges by pulling 3 lps through 3 lps and fasten ends together. Sew cuff to bottom of bootee with yarn needle and baby yarn, having seam at back.
TIE: With double yarn make a chain 10-inches long. Weave in and out of eyelets of bootee. Make a small pom-pon with a Susan Bates or Marcia Lynn pom-pon maker for each end and attach.
YOKE BACK: Ch 50, d c in 3rd ch from hook, and in each ch across (48 d c). Ch 3, turn.
ROW 2: Work 1 d c in each d c across, ch 3, turn.
Repeat Row 2, 8 times.
SIDE FRONT: On next row, work across 14 sts, increasing one stitch in 14th st (neck edge). Ch 3, turn.
Work 9 more rows, increasing 1 st at neck edge on each row. Fasten off. Skip center 20 sts for neck and tie in yarn. Work second front to correspond with first, increasing one st at neck edge every row. Row 11, ch 1, turn. Work 1 s c in each st across first side, ch 8, work 1 s c in each st across back, ch 8, work 1 s c in each st across other side, ch 1, turn. Work 1 s c in each s c and in each chain across row. Turn work, and work a row of s c around neck edge. Fasten off.
With hairpin lace crochet loom, make 20 strips each of 39 lps on each side of loom. Join by pulling 3 lps through 3 lps, always working from bottom to top. Finish outside edges by pulling 3 lps through 3 lps from bottom to top. Sew to yoke, easing in fullness.
For each sleeve, make 6 strips each of 33 lps on each side of crochet loom. Join in the same way as before. When all six have been put together, join the first strip to the sixth. Sew sleeves in place.
With right side facing you, work a row of shells around neck edge as follows: s c in first st, * skip 1 st, 5 d c in next st (shell made), skip 1 st, s c in next st, repeat from * around. Fasten off.
With right side facing you, work a row of shells across bottom, and around sleeve edge, working a shell in joining point of 2 strips, and s c in center of strip.
BACK PIECE: Ch 3. Work 12 d c in third chain from hook. Join with a sl st.
ROUND 2: Ch 3. Work 1 d c in same place as sl st, and 2 d c in each st around. (24 d c.) Join each rnd. with a sl st.
ROUND 3: Ch 3. D c in same st as sl st, * 1 d c in next st, 2 d c in next st, repeat from *.
Continue to increase 12 sts each rnd for 2 more rnds (60 sts).
HAIRPIN LACE: Make 3 strips of 78 lps, 1 strip of 52 lps.
Join 3—78 lp strips by pulling 3 lps through 3 lps. Finish one side by pulling 3 lps through 3 lps.
Join 4th strip to other edge by pulling 3 lps of third strip through 2 lps of fourth, and 2 lps of fourth through 3 lps of third. Finish other side of fourth strip by pulling 2 lps through 2 lps across.
On back piece, mark off 12 sts for back of neck. Sew side with 52-lp strip to back piece, omitting these 12 sts.
continuation from page 22
NECK BAND: Join yarn at front edge, and work a row of 36 s c around neck edge. Work 3 more rows st for st. Work a row of shell st around front of bonnet.
TIES: Make 2.
With yarn double, make a chain of 40 sts.
Add pom-pon and attach to bonnet.
GAUGE: 5 s c to 1 inch.
NOTE: Yarn is worked double throughout. Each loop has two strands of yarn which will be referred to as a SINGLE LOOP.
Make 14 strips of 120 SINGLE LOOPS on each side of loom. Join SINGLE LOOPS by pulling 2 SINGLE LOOPS through 2 SINGLE LOOPS always starting at same end and working from right side. Fasten last 2 SINGLE LOOPS securely. Finish sides by pulling 2 SINGLE LOOPS through 2 SINGLE LOOPS. Weave in all ends.
EDGING—Make a strip of hairpin lace long enough to go around all four sides of blanket allowing a little extra for fullness at corners. It is better to have too much as it can be pulled out. Finish one side of this strip by pulling 2 SINGLE LOOPS through 2 SINGLE LOOPS. This side will be sewed to the edge of the blanket. Leave SINGLE LOOPS on the other side loose to form fringe. This may be cut if desired.
Gauge: 3 stitches—1 inch; 2 rows—1 inch.
Directions are for Small-size 38. Medium-size 40-42 and Large-size 44 are in parentheses.
Pattern:
ROW 1: Skip one ch, * 1 sc in next ch, 1 dc in next ch, repeat from * across row. Ch 1, turn.
ROW 2: Sc in each dc, and dc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn. Repeat Row 2 for pattern.
BACK: Ch 55 (61-67). Work in pattern for 12 (12½-13) inches.
ARMHOLE: Sl st across first 6 sts. Ch 1, work in pattern up to the last 6 sts. Ch 1, turn.
Decrease 1 st at each end of next 2 rows until 38 (44-50) sts remain.
TO DECREASE: Pick up a loop in first st, pick up a loop in second st, yarn over hook and pull through all three loops on hook.
Work even until armhole measures 10 (10½-11) inches
SHOULDER: Sl st across first 6 (7-8) sts, ch 1, work pattern across next 6 (7-8) sts. Fasten off. Skip next 14 (16-18) for neck, and tie in yarn. Ch 1, and work pattern across next 6 (7-8) sts. Slip st in next 6 (7-8) st. Fasten off.
RIGHT FRONT: Ch 37 (41-45).
Work in pattern for 6 (6½-7) inches. Decrease one st at neck edge every other row 16 (18-20) times, and at the same time, when piece measures same as back to armhole, work armhole the same as back. On remaining 12 (14-16) sts, work straight until armhole measures same as back. Slip st across first 6 (7-8) sts, ch 1, work pattern across next 6 (7-8) sts. Fasten off. Mark this piece for buttons (four).
LEFT FRONT: Work same as right front, reversing all shaping, and making buttonholes to correspond with markings on right front.
TO MAKE BUTTONHOLES: Work to the dc before the first buttonhole. * Work this dc, ch 1, skip next sc, work dc in next st. Continue to work pattern to next buttonhole marking and repeat from *. Finish pattern across row. On next row, work in pattern, using the ch 1 to replace the st skipped. Sew shoulders and sides. Sc around armholes and outside edge of vest. Sew buttons in place.
Your Notes:
Design by BARBARA O’BRIEN
GAUGE: 5 s c = 1 inch at center of strip
Directions are given for small size (12). Changes for medium (14) and large (16) sizes given in parentheses.
MEASUREMENTS:
Width across front at underarm: 18 (19, 20) inches
Width across back at underarm: 17 (18, 19) inches
BACK: With darker color work 80 (90, 100) lps on each side of staple. Work 10 (for all sizes) more dark strips. Work 10 (for all sizes) strips contrasting color. This completes strips from lower edge to underarm running horizontally. Work 1 strip contrasting color with 68 (78, 88) loops. Work 3 strips dark color and 2 strips contrasting color each with 64 (74, 84) loops. This completes strips for armhole.
TO ASSEMBLE: Always work strips with starting loops on right edge and beginning length of yarn at top. Take 1 dark strip, place 1 contrasting strip above; insert crochet hook in 1st 2 loops of top strip on right edge, insert crochet hook in 1st 2 loops of lower (dark) strip and pull through top strip, insert in next 2 loops of top strip and pull through. Continue in same manner across strips working alternately into top and lower strip until joining is completed. Place a dark strip on top of light strip and join in same manner. Alternating colors continue joining all strips to underarm.
SHAPE ARMHOLE: Take the strip with 68 (78, 88) loops. Skip 1st 6 loops on last strip, then work joining as before, skipping last 6 loops. Take next color strip with 64 (74, 84) loops; insert hook in 2 loops of top strip, then insert through 4 loops of lower strip and pull through, then join as before working last 4 loops tog. Alternating colors, continue joining all armhole strips.
FRONT: Work 11 dark strips with 90 (100, 110) loops and 10 contrasting strips with 90 (100, 110) loops. Work and mark following strips for neck and armhole shaping: 2 strips 34 (38, 42) loops contrasting color, 2 strips 28 (32, 36) dark color, 2 strips 24 (28, 32) contrasting color, 2 strips 20 (24, 28) dark color, 4 strips 16 (20, 24) contrasting color, 2 strips 16 (20, 24) dark color.
TO ASSEMBLE: Join strips to underarm in same manner as back.
SHAPE NECK AND ARMHOLES: 1st ROW. Take 1 strip 34 (38, 42) loops, skip 6 loops on right edge for armhole shaping, then complete joining. Take 2nd 34 (38, 42) loops strip, skip 10 (12, 14) loops for neck, and complete joining skipping last 6 loops at other armhole.
2nd ROW: Take 28 (32, 36) strip, insert crochet hook in 2 loops on top strip, insert hook through 4 loops on lower strip and pull through, continue joining loops as before until 10 loops are free on lower strip, * pick up and pull through 3 loops on lower strip, pick up and pull through 2 loops on top strip, repeat from * once, then pick up and pull through 4 loops on lower edge. Take 2nd 28 (32, 34) loop strip, pick up 2 loops on top strip, pick up and pull through 4 loops on lower strip, * pick up 2 loops on top strip, pick up and pull through 3 loops on lower strip, repeat from * once, then complete joining in same manner, working last 4 loops tog.
3rd ROW: Take next color with 24 (28, 32) loops, work joining even until 10 loops are free on lower strip, then complete same as last row. Take 2nd 24 (28, 32) strip, work joining same as last row working even at armhole edge.
4th ROW: Take next color with 20 (24, 28) loops, and join same as last row.
5th ROW: Take next color with 16 (20, 24) loops and repeat last row.
6th ROW: With next color, repeat last row.
7th ROW: Repeat last row.
FINISHING: Join front and neck sections together at shoulders same as all joining. Sew side seams with matching colors. Finish all ends. Work a row of s c around each armhole working 4 s c in each stripe, join. Work a row of s c around neck edge working 4 s c in each color stripe and working 2 s c in each st at front neck edge; working 1 s c in each of 2 sts each side at shoulders and 2 s c in each remaining st across back of neck, join.
2nd ROW: S c, 4 d c in same space, skip 3 s c, * s c, 4 d c in next s c, repeat from * all around, join, fasten off.
Your Notes:
Knitted vest in an easy loose open stitch that looks like crochet.
Directions are given for small size—8-10 Changes for medium—12-14 and large sizes—16-18 are in parentheses
NOTE: Yarn is used double throughout.
GAUGE: 2 sts = 1 inch.
Row 1: K 1, * YO, K 2 tog, repeat from * across.
Row 2: Purl.
Row 3: * K 2 tog, YO, repeat from * across row ending with K 1.
Row 4: Purl.
VEST: Cast on 65 (69-73) sts. Work in pattern for 27 rows, ending with Row 3 of pattern.
Row 28: Purl across 13 (15-17) sts.
Bind off next 7 sts, purl across 25 sts (for all sizes), bind off next 7 sts, purl across remaining 13 (15-17) sts.
RIGHT FRONT: Work 4 rows in pattern over first 13 (15-17) sts.
Row 5: Bind off 8 sts at neck edge, complete row by working YO, K 2 tog, across row.
Continue to work in pattern over these 5 (7-9) sts, until 13 rows have been completed. Bind off.
BACK: Attach yarn at right side of back, and work in pattern across these 25 sts until 16 rows have been completed. Bind off.
LEFT FRONT: Attach yarn, and work in pattern for 3 rows.
Row 4: Bind off 8 sts at neck edge, finish row.
Continue to work in pattern over these 5 (7-9) sts, until 13 rows have been completed. Bind off, sew shoulders.
The following are approximate number of sts. You may use more or less, according to the tension of your own work.
With K-10½ crochet hook, work approximately 40 sc around armholes. Work a second row of sc, st for st. Fasten off. Work in sc around outside of vest keeping work flat. Start at lower edge of left front, and work 63 (67-71) across bottom, 3 sc in corner, 25 up front, 3 at top corner, 20 on right side of neck, 12 across back of neck, 20 down left side of neck, 3 at corner edge, 25 down left front, 2 in corner. Slip st to first sc. Ch 1, and work a second row of sc around front and neck, working 3 sc in each corner st.
TIES: Make 2—With K-10½ crochet hook, ch 41, turn, sl st in each ch across.
Attach one to each side of neck edge.
Your Notes:
Design by BARBARA O’BRIEN
Gauge: 3 sc = 1 inch at center of strip.
Yarn is used double. Each loop has two strands of yarn but is still called a single loop.
FIRST STRIP (30 lps): Thread a piece of yarn through all loops on one side of strip and tie yarn tightly forming a circle. Attach ends at center of strip together. Attach second strip (60 lps) by pulling 2 lps of second strip through 1 lp of first strip with crochet hook, 1 lp of first through 2 lps of second, until all loops are joined. Fasten end, and sew center ends of strip together. Starting each strip in a different place, join 3rd strip (90 lps) by pulling 2 lps of second strip through 3 lps of third, and 3 lps of third through 2 lps of second, all around. Fasten. Join fourth strip (90 lps) by pulling 3 lps through 3 lps, all around. Fasten. Join 5th strip (60 lps) by pulling 3 lps of fourth through 2 lps of fifth, and 2 lps of fifth through 3 lps of the fourth, all around. Fasten.
To finish last strip, pull 2 lps through 2 lps all around. Fasten off. With J-10 crochet hook and yarn used double, work around edge of tam as follows: Work 45 sc around. Join with a slip stitch. Work two more rows of single crochet, stitch for stitch. Fasten off. Make a large pom-pon with a Susan Bates or Marcia Lynn pom-pon maker and attach to top of tam.
SCARF: Make 4 strips each of 150 loops. Lay two strips side by side on a table. Keep in mind that each loop has two strands of yarn but is still called a single loop. Put crochet hook through first 2 lps on first strip. Now put hook through first 2 lps on second strip and pull them through the 2 lps already on hook. With these 2 lps still on hook, pick up the next 2 lps on first strip and pull them through. Continue in this manner, alternating first and second strips, until all loops have been worked. Fasten off as shown in basic directions. Join 3rd to 2nd and 4th to 3rd strip in same manner as above. Finish outside edges by pulling 2 lps through 2 lps all the way to the top.
TO MAKE FRINGE. Wrap yarn around a six-inch cardboard 96 times. Cut at one end. Each piece should measure 12 inches. Take 6 strands and fold them in half. Pull folded end through work with crochet hook, drawing it through about 2 inches. Then pull the 12 loose ends through this loop, and pull until knot is formed. Space them—2 at each end of each strip, making 8 at each end. Scarf may be made wider by adding more strips.
Your Notes:
Designs by BARBARA O’BRIEN
Working tightly, work 30 s c around first bone ring and join with a sl st. Without breaking yarn, work 15 s c in next ring (to cover half) and continue to work 15 s c in each ring until 19 rings are joined. Work 30 s c in last ring (20th), and then working down the other side, work 15 s c in each ring (to cover other half) until all rings have been covered. Weave in end of yarn. Slip ribbon in and out of each ring, leaving end on each side long enough to make a bow. Belt may be made longer or shorter by adding or subtracting rings in multiples of two. Always use an even number of rings.
When making covered buttons, always use the smallest crochet hook possible for the yarn you are using. Work should be firm to make a neat button. Also, the cover should be a very tight fit. Lay yarn on table and make a double loop. Pick loops up, and insert crochet hook, and bring through a loop from ball end of yarn. Ch 1 to secure loop. Work 6 s c in loop. Pull short end until hole is completely closed. Fasten this end off.
Round 2: Work 2 s c in each s c around.
Round 3: * Work 1 s c in first s c, 2 s c in next s c. Repeat from * around (18 s c). If you are covering a larger button, continue to increase 6 s c in each round until piece is size of top of button.
Woman’s Belt
Covered Buttons & Rings
Work one round even. Insert button mold and work around in s c, decreasing 6 st each round until mold is covered as much as possible. Break off, leaving an eight-inch length of yarn. Thread this on yarn needle and weave around final edge, pulling in tightly. Fasten off.
With crochet hook, work as many s c around plastic ring as needed to completely cover ring. Break off, leaving a 10-inch strand of yarn. Thread this strand on a yarn needle and work in and out of every other stitch around outside of ring. Carefully pull yarn until all sts are turned to inside of ring. Fasten off. On larger rings where one row will not fill up center, work a second row around, making a s c in every other stitch before breaking off.
For a more decorative button, sew a rhinestone or colored stone to center of button.
All directions in this book have been carefully checked for accuracy. We cannot be responsible for human errors, or misinterpretation of directions.
PUBLISHER:
C. J. BATES & SON, INC.
CHESTER, CONNECTICUT
06412
