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Title: Roberts' Chester Guide [1858]


Author: Hugh Roberts

Editor: John Hicklin

Release Date: July 1, 2020  [eBook #62534]

Language: English

Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII)


***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ROBERTS' CHESTER GUIDE [1858]***

Transcribed from the [1858] Hugh Roberts edition by David Price, email [email protected]

ROBERTS’
CHESTER GUIDE;

WITH

FORTY-SIX ENGRAVINGS.

AND AN

ILLUSTRATED PLAN OF THE CITY.

REVISED BY

JOHN HICKLIN,

Editor of the Chester Courant, and Honorary Secretary of the Chester Archæological
and Historic Society.

CHESTER:
HUGH ROBERTS, EASTGATE ROW.
LONDON: HAMILTON, ADAMS, & CO.; AND WHITTAKER & CO.
AND OTHER BOOKSELLERS.

p. iiINDEX.

p. iiiPREFACE.

The visit of the Royal Agricultural Society of England to Chester in July, 1858, seems a fitting occasion on which to present to the public an entirely NEW EDITION of the CHESTER GUIDE, which has been carefully revised throughout, with the requisite care and intelligence for securing to strangers a useful memorial of the “old city.”  The work is also embellished with a numerous series of engravings, and an illustrated plan, which will facilitate the visitor’s inspection of the interesting remains and modern attractions with which Chester abounds; and also supply a pictorial reminiscence of scenes and places that may perchance excite pleasant memories.  In this hope our Manual is committed to public favour, which, the editor trusts, will be so heartily manifested, as to require, at no very distant day, a renewal of his services as a literary “Guide.”

Chester, June 24, 1858.

p. ivILLUSTRATIONS.

p. 1CHAPTER I.
THE ANCIENT HISTORY OF CHESTER.

Three are but few places, if indeed there are any, which can present such varied attractions to the antiquary as this remarkable and ancient city.  It is rich in memorable incidents and associations.  It has a history chronicled not only in books, but in its walls, towers, rows, and venerable remains.

The origin of Chester is of very remote date.  No definite conclusion has been reached respecting the exact time of its foundation.  Various hypotheses have been started, some of them grotesque and ridiculous enough, but its origin is lost in those mists of antiquity where history fades into fable.

It is quite clear, as an authenticated matter of fact, that Chester was in very early possession of the Romans.  It was the headquarters of the 20th Legion, which, we find, came into Britain before the year 61; for it had a share in the defeat of Boadicea by Suetonius.  After that important victory this mighty and intrepid people marched onward towards North Wales, and established their authority in Cheshire.

Scattered through the city, have been discovered many vestiges of their power, which enable us to trace their history with considerable distinctness.  Wherever they planted their settlements, they left permanent records of their greatness and skill.  Many of these memorials have been discovered, in various parts of the old city; and through the intelligent and zealous investigations of the Chester Archæological Society, these antiquities are now made tributary to the instruction of the inhabitants respecting the history of their own locality.

Not only to the antiquarian, however, is Chester interesting; p. 2there is scarcely any order of mind or taste but may here find its gratification.  Its noble arched bridge, venerable cathedral and churches, unique rows, and ancient walls encompassing the city, with a considerable number and variety of relics, all combine to make Chester an attractive place of resort.  It is the metropolis of the county palatine of that name, and is pleasantly situated above the river Dee, on a rising ground.  Its names have been various.  Its Roman name was Deva, undoubtedly, because of its being situated on the river Dee.  Then Cestriæ, from Castrum, “camp;” and Castrum Legionis, “the Camp of the Legion.”  Its British names were Caer Lleon, “the Camp of the Legion;” and Caer Lleon Vawr, or Ddyfrdwy, “the Camp of the Great Legion on the Dee.”

During the brilliant lieutenancy of Julius Agricola, A.D. 85, it became a Roman colony; and the place was called from them and from its situation, Colonia Devana.  This is clearly demonstrated by a coin of Septimus Geta, son of Severus, which has this inscription:—

Col. Devana. Leg. xx. Victrix.

For two or three centuries after this date, Chester appears to have continued undisturbed in the power of the Romans; during which period “it was a centre of operations while conquest was being produced; a centre of civilization and commercial intercourse when the dominion of the empire was established.  The actual form of the city, its division by streets into four quarters, exhibits the arrangement which the Romans established in their camp, and which they naturally transferred to the cities which took the place of their military stations.  Traces of the work of that wonderful people still remain on our walls, and on the rocky brows which surround them; and excite the attention, and reward the diligence of the antiquarian.  Those pigs of lead, the produce of Roman industry, which are first mentioned, in ‘Camden’s Britannia,’ as being found in the neighbourhood of Chester, and two of which have recently been discovered, are memorials of the early period at which the mineral wealth of this district was known, and of the commerce to which it gave rise.”  It is a fact, clearly established by history, that to the Romans we are greatly indebted for the introduction of a much higher order of civilization than that which they found existing when they took possession of the country.  They were the pioneers of social and religious progress.  Previous to the Roman invasion, the inhabitants were unacquainted with the laws and arts of civilized life;—painted their bodies,—despised p. 3the institution of marriage,—clothed themselves in skins,—knew very little of agriculture,—were furious in disposition, and cruel in their religious superstitions.  We find that the practice of human sacrifices was very general amongst them, and in every respect their social and moral condition rude and barbarous in the extreme.  So wedded were they to their idolatrous worship and cruel rites, that the Romans, after their conquest, found it necessary to abolish their religion by penal statutes; an exercise of power which was not usual with these tolerating conquerors.  About the year 50, the Emperor Claudius Cæsar subdued the greater part of Britain, and received the submission of several of the British states who inhabited the south-east part of the island.  The other Britons, under the command of Caractacus, still maintained an obstinate resistance, and the Romans made little progress against them until Ostorius Scapula was sent over, in the year 50, to command their armies.  This renowned general found the country in a state of great excitement and dissatisfaction, but speedily advanced the Roman conquests over the Britons—defeated Caractacus in a great battle—took him prisoner, and sent him to Rome—where his magnanimous behaviour procured him better treatment than those conquerors usually bestowed on native princes.  He pardoned Caractacus and his family, and commanded that their chains should immediately be taken off.

Holinshed is of opinion that Ostorius Scapula was the founder of Chester, and the reasons he adduces are certainly very plausible.  He says, “It is not unlike that it might be first built by P. Ostorius Scapula, who, as we find, after he had subdued Caractacus, King of the Ordonices, that inhabited the countries now called Lancashire, Cheshire, and Salopshire, built in those parts, and among the Silures, certeine places of defense, for the better harbrough of his men of warre, and keeping downe of such Britaines as were still readie to move rebellion.”

Passing over the space of a few years, we find Julius Agricola completing the conquest of this island.  Such was his formidable power and skilful policy in governing the people, that we are told they soon became reconciled to the supremacy of the Roman arms and language.  He quelled their animosity to the Roman yoke, and certainly did very much for the progress of the people in civilization, knowledge, and the arts of peace.

There is perhaps no place in the kingdom that can boast of so many monuments of Roman skill and ingenuity as Chester; but as p. 4these will be described in detail as we proceed, we need not specify them here.

About the year 448 the Romans withdrew from the island, after having been masters of the most considerable part of its territory for nearly four centuries, and left the Britons to arm for their own defence.  No sooner, however, had the Romans withdrawn their troops, than the Scots and Picts invaded the country with their terrible forces, and spread devastation and ruin along the line of their march.  These vindictive and rapacious barbarians, fired with the lust of conquest, made a pitiless onslaught upon the property and lives of the people.  The unhappy Britons petitioned, without effect, for the interposition of Rome, which had declared its resolution for ever to abandon them.  The British ambassadors were entrusted with a letter to the legate at Rome, pathetically stating their perilous dilemma, and invoking their immediate aid.

The intestine commotions which were then shaking the Roman empire to its centre prevented the masters of the then world from affording the timely aid sought at their hands.

Despairing of any reinforcement from Rome, the Britons now invoked the aid of the Saxons, who promptly complied with the invitation, and under Hengist and Horsa, two Saxon chiefs, who were also brothers, wrested Chester from the hands of the invaders.  The Saxons, perceiving the weakness of their degenerate allies, soon began to entertain the project of conquering them, and seizing the country as their spoil.  During the conflict which ensued between the Britons and Saxons, who from allies became masters.  Chester was frequently taken and retaken, and suffered severely in various sieges.  Ultimately, the Aborigines were totally subjugated under the mightier sway of Saxon arms.

In 607 Ethelfrid, King of Northumbria, waged a sanguinary battle with the Britons under the walls of Chester, whom he defeated.

It is recorded that he came to avenge the quarrel of St. Augustine, whose metropolitan jurisdiction the British monks refused to admit.  Augustine is said to have denounced against them the vengeance of heaven, for this reason, three years previously.

Sammes, in his Antiquities of Britain, gives an interesting statement of this celebrated battle: “Edelfrid, the strongest King of the English, having gathered together a great army about the city of Chester, he made a great slaughter of that nation; but when he was going to give the onset, he espied priests and others, who were p. 5come thither to entreat God for the success of the army, standing apart in a place of advantage; he asked who they were, and for what purpose they had met there?  When Edelfrid had understood the cause of their coming, he said, ‘If, therefore, they cry unto their God against us, certainly they, although they bear no arms, fight against us, who prosecute us by their prayers.’”

The victory was not destined, however, to be an abiding one.  The supremacy of Ethelfrid over the Britons was not long in duration.  History tells us that a few years after he had achieved his conquest, the united forces of Brocmail and three other British princes rescued from his hands the possession of Chester, and put his armies to flight.  In 613, the Britons assembled in Chester, and elected Cadwon their king, who reigned with great honour for twenty-two years.

From this period to the close of the Heptarchy, we have but very scanty materials respecting the history of Chester.  The Britons appear to have retained possession of it until about the year 828, when it was finally taken by Egbert, during the reign of the British prince Mervyn and his wife Esylht.

In a few years afterwards (894 or 895) the city underwent a heavy calamity, from its invasion by Harold, King of the Danes, Mancolin, King of the Scots, and another confederate prince, who are said to have encamped on Hoole heath, near Chester, and, after a long siege, reduced the city.  These predatory pirates were soon after attacked and conquered by Alfred, who utterly routed them from the military defences in which they had embosomed themselves, and destroyed all the cattle and corn of the district.

After the evacuation of the city by the Danes, it remained in ruins until about the year 908, when it was restored by Ethelred, the first Earl of Mercia, and Ethelfleda, his wife, who, it is said, enlarged it to double the extent of the Roman town.  Sir Peter Leycester says that “Ethelred and his countess restored Caerleon, that is Legecestria, now called Chester, after it was destroyed by the Danes, and enclosed it with new walls, and made it nigh such two as it was before; so that the castle that was sometime by the water without the walls, is now in the town within the walls.”  All the narratives which have been handed down to us of this celebrated woman represent her as possessed of incomparable talent, great enterprise, and pure mind.  She employed the great power and opportunity she possessed with admirable wisdom, and made them subservient to acts of munificence and piety.  She died at p. 6Tamworth in 922, whence her body was translated to Gloucester.  Leycester gives a lengthy record of her good deeds, which prepares us for the fact that her loss was deeply and universally regretted throughout the whole kingdom.

The security of Chester against the Danish invaders was ultimately effected by the victories of Edmund, in or about 942, after which it was occasionally honoured by the residence of the Saxon sovereigns.  Pennant says, King Edgar made this one of the stations in his annual circumnavigation of his dominions.  About the year 973, he visited Chester, attended by his court, and received the homage of his vassal kings.  It is said that one day entering his barge, he assumed the helm, and made his eight tributary princes row him from the palace which stood in the field at Handbridge, opposite the castle (and which still bears his name), up the river Dee, as far as the monastery of St. John’s.  In the following century Chester was possessed by the Earls of Mercia, until the Norman Conquest in 1066.  The tyranny, violence, and bloodshed which marked the course of William the Conqueror, met with determined resistance in various parts of the country; but in the course of six or seven years he utterly crushed all opposition, and became absolute master of the island.  He introduced into England the feudal system, “with its military aristocracy, its pride, its splendour, and its iron dominion.  The importance of Chester, as a military station, was shown by its being assigned as a fief to one of the chief leaders in the Norman army, and on his death by its being given to the nephew of the Duke himself, under whom it was invested with privileges which raised it almost to the rank of a separate principality.  Under Hugh, the first Earl of Chester, and his immediate successors, we may suppose that most of those castles were built, which form objects of antiquarian research in the neighbourhood, but which are melancholy records of the state of society at the time, since they were evidently built to protect the frontiers from the continued invasions of the Welsh.  Some of these still remain, and, from their extent and magnificence, appear to have been the residences of the Earls themselves.  Many more have perished, and can only be traced by the banks which mark the outline of their plan.  These were probably of an inferior description, and are rather to be considered as guard-houses for the protection of some particular pass than as regular fortresses.  There are traces of this kind at Doddleston, at Pulford, at Aldford, at Holt, at Shotwick, beside the larger and more distinguished holds p. 7at Beeston, Halton, Chester, and Hawarden; and probably few years passed but that some inroad of the Welsh carried fire and slaughter to the very gates of Chester, and swept the cattle and produce from the fields.” [7]

For many years previous to the Norman Conquest, Chester was governed by Dukes or Earls; but William, perceiving the danger of entrusting so large a territory in the hands of any one of his barons, curtailed the provinces within narrower limits, and thereby crippled the power which had often proved dangerous to the throne, and at the same time augmented his own, by having a larger number of gifts and emoluments to bestow on his followers.  In the first instance, William gave Chester to Gherbodus, a noble Fleming, who, having obtained permission of the king to visit Flanders for the transaction of some private business, there fell into the hands of his enemies, and was obliged to resign the earldom to Hugh Lupus, the nephew of the Conqueror, who was appointed in his stead.  The Earldom was now erected into a Palatinate.  Camden says, “William the 1st created Hugh, surnamed Lupus, the first Earl of Chester and Count Palatine, and gave unto him and his heirs all the county, to be holden as freely by the sword as the king himself held England by his crown.”

By reason of this grant, the Earls of Chester were invested with sovereign jurisdiction, and held their own parliaments.  It is supposed that Lupus was invested with his new dignity at Chester by William himself, when he was present there in person in 1069.

He created several barons to assist him in his council and government, some of whom we find upon record, as Nigel, Baron of Halton; Sir William Maldebeng, of Malbanc, Baron of Witch Malbanc, or Nantwich; Richard de Vernon, Baron of Shipbroke; Gilbert Venables, Baron of Kinderton; Hamon de Massey, Baron of Dunham Massey; Warren de Poynton, Baron of Stockport; Eustace de Monthalt, Baron of Monthalt.  He converted the church of St. Werburgh into an abbey, by the advice of St. Anselm.

He continued Earl thirty-one years, died the 27th of July, 1101, and was buried in the churchyard, but afterwards removed to the present Chapter-house of the Cathedral, where his body was found in 1724, wrapped in leather, enclosed in a stone coffin.

His Sword of Dignity forms one of the many valuable curiosities p. 8preserved in the British Museum.  His parliament was formed of eight barons, who were obliged to attend him.  Every baron had four esquires, every esquire one gentleman, and every gentleman one valet.  The barons had the power of life and death.  Hugh Lupus was succeeded by his son Richard, who was drowned in his passage from Normandy.  He governed nineteen years, and was succeeded by Ranulph, surnamed Mechines, son of Margaret, sister to Lupus.  Ranulph died at Chester, A.D. 1129, [8] and was succeeded by the heroic Ranulph II., surnamed Geronjis, who, having held the earldom twenty-five years, was poisoned in 1153, and was buried at Chester.

Hugh II., his son, surnamed Cyvelioc, succeeded him, and continued in the earldom twenty-eight years.  He died at Leek, in Staffordshire, and was buried at Chester.

Hugh was succeeded by his son Ranulph, surnamed Blundeville, who, for his benevolence, was styled Ranulph the Good.  He served in the holy wars, and was as celebrated as any of the Seven Champions of Christendom.  After his return, he built Beeston Castle, in Cheshire, a noble and imposing fortress, which, before the use of fire-arms, might have been deemed impregnable.  It is built on an insulated rock, and its summit is one hundred yards above the level of the brook that runs at its base.  It endured three sieges during the civil wars.  The middle part of the slope is surrounded by towers, which time, however, has dismantled; the well in the upper part was cut through the rock to the depth of one hundred yards; in the course of time it became nearly filled up with rubbish, but within the last few years was cleared, built round, and enclosed, by J. Tollemache, Esq., M.P., to whom the castle belongs.  It is ten miles distant from Chester, on the London and North-Western Railway.

This Earl Ranulph was besieged by the Welsh in the castle of Rhuddlan, and was relieved by Ralph Dutton, son-in-law of Roger Lacy, Constable of Chester, at the head of a large body of fiddlers, minstrels, &c., who were then assembled at the fair of Hugh Lupus.  A remarkable privilege of this fair was, that no thief or malefactor that attended it should be attached or punished, except for offences then and there committed.  With this motley crew Dutton marched into Wales, and raised the siege; for which Ranulph rewarded him p. 9with full power over all the instruments of his preservation, and the privilege of licensing the minstrels.  The anniversary of this achievement was formerly celebrated on the festival of St. John the Baptist, by a regular procession of the minstrels to the church of their tutelar saint, St. Werburgh, in honour of whom Hugh Lupus granted to the minstrels, &c., the above-mentioned privilege, which is recognized in all subsequent vagrant acts, by a special exception in favour of the minstrel jurisdiction of the Duttons, of Dutton, in Cheshire.  The last Earl Ranulph died in 1232, and was buried at Chester.

John Scott succeeded Ranulph, who died without issue; not without suspicion, Leycester says, of being poisoned by the contrivance of Helene his wife.

The Earls of Chester continued to exercise their local sovereignty for about one hundred and sixty years.  They held that sovereignty, it is true, as the representatives of the paramount sovereignty of the King of England, and as owing allegiance to him in all things; but so far as the government of the Palatinate was concerned, their rule, though nominally mediate, was actually absolute, for the King does not appear to have thwarted their jurisdiction, or in any way to have exerted his supreme authority, beyond retaining a mint at Chester.

After the death of the seventh Earl, in 1237, Henry the Third united the Earldom to the Crown; he afterwards conferred it upon his eldest son, Prince Edward, about A.D. 1245, who, two years after this, received the homage of his military tenants at Chester.  From that period to the present the title of Earl of Chester has been vested in the eldest son of the reigning sovereign, and is now held by His Royal Highness Albert, Prince of Wales.

In 1255 Llewellyn ap Gryffid, Prince of Wales, provoked by the cruel injuries his subjects had received from Geffrey Langley, Lieutenant of the County under Prince Edward, carried fire and sword to the gates of Chester.  In 1257 Henry the Third summoned his nobility and bishops to attend, with their vassals, at Chester, in order to invade Wales; and in 1275 Edward the First appointed the city as the place for Llewellyn to do him homage, whose refusal ended with the ruin of himself and his principality; for in 1300 Edward of Carnarvon here received the final acknowledgment of the Welsh to the sovereignty of England; and in a few years afterwards, Llewellyn was brought hither a prisoner from Flint Castle.  Richard the Second visited this his favourite p. 10city in 1397, and in 1399 he was brought a prisoner from Flint Castle to the castle of Chester, which Bolingbroke, afterwards Henry the Fourth, had seized.

In Owen Glendower’s wars this city was a place d’armes for the English troops in the expeditions against the Welsh, who, ever tenacious of their independence, were as unwilling to submit to the Norman as the Saxon yoke.

In 1459 Henry the Sixth, with Queen Margaret and her son Edward, visited Chester, and bestowed little silver swans on the Cheshire gentlemen who espoused her cause.

It appears that Henry the Seventh and his Queen also visited Chester in 1493.  In 1554 George Marsh, the pious martyr was publicly burnt at Boughton, for his steadfast adherence to the Protestant faith.  In the year 1617 the city was honoured with the presence of James the First, when Edward Button, the then Mayor, presented the King with a gilt cup containing one hundred jacobuses of gold.

From this time no event of any great importance appears to have transpired, until the city was involved in the calamities of a siege, in consequence of its loyalty to Charles the First.  The city stood the siege for some months; but the inhabitants at last, reduced to the extremity of famine, so that they were compelled to eat horses, dogs, cats, and other animals, abandoned their resistance, made honourable terms of capitulation, and yielded the city on February the 3rd, 1645–6.

Chester was, probably, in the time of the Romans, or earlier, a thriving port.  The Saxon navy was stationed here, and it was also the seat of the Mercian kings.  About the time of the Conquest the imports and exports appear to have been considerable.  But as an illustration of the times we may mention, that one article of the latter was slaves, obtained, it is conjectured, from the captives which were made in the frequent wars with the Welsh.  It is quite clear that Chester was, in ancient days, a busy and nourishing port, because of the perfectly navigable condition of the Dee.  All the early writers of its history unite in bearing testimony to this point.  It may here be mentioned as a curious and interesting fact, that some centuries ago, Flookersbrook was covered with water, and that a deep and broad channel flowed through Mollington, Stanney, and that direction, which emptied itself into the estuary now called the Mersey.  Holinshed, after tracing minutely the course of the Dee through Flookersbrook up p. 11to Stanney, distinctly states that it “sendeth foorth one arme by Stannie Poole, and the Parke side into Merseie arme,” &c.  Speed distinctly marks out this course in his map; and it is still more broadly defined in an old Dutch map, of a much earlier date, printed at Rotterdam.

In consequence of the uncertain and imperfect state of the river, the once thriving commerce of this ancient port has dwindled into comparative insignificance, and Liverpool has reaped the advantage.  Spirited efforts have latterly been made to improve the navigation and port of Chester.

With regard to the ecclesiastical history of Chester, it may suffice to observe that, according to King’s ‘Vale Royal,’ Theodore, the first Anglo-Saxon Primate, ordained at Rome in 669, appointed St. Chad the first Bishop of Chester, who fixed his seat at Lichfield.  “After him one Winifred was bishop, who, for his disobedience in some points, was deprived by Theodore, who appointed in his place one Sexulph.  The said Theodore, by authority of a synod held at Hatfield, did divide the province of Mercia into five bishoprics, that is to say, Chester, Worcester, Lichfield, Cederna in Lindsey, and Dorchester, which after was translated to Lincoln.  After Sexulf, one Aldwin was Bishop of Lichfield, and next to him Eudulfus, who was adorned with the Archbishop’s pall, having all the bishops under King Offa’s dominions suffragans to him.”

The diocese of Chester seems to have continued one with that of Lichfield to the time of the Conquest, when Pennant says a Bishop of Lichfield, in the year 1075, removed his episcopal seat to Chester, and during his life made use of the monastery of St. John’s for his cathedral.

His successor was Robert of Lindsey, chaplain of Wm. Rufus, who removed the see to Coventry; St. John’s church, however, continued collegiate up to the time of the Reformation, at which period it had a dean, eight canons or prebends, and ten vicars choral.  The prelate and his successors, although having seats at Lichfield and Coventry, as well as Chester, continued to have the designation of Bishop of Chester, until the appointment of John Ketterich, in 1415, who was not so styled, nor any of his successors until the time of the Reformation.  “The bishops that were before that time (although they were commonly called Bishops of Chester) were Bishops of Lichfield, and had but their seat or most abiding p. 12in Chester.”  Henry the Eighth erected Chester into a distinct diocese in the 33rd year of his reign, “turning the monastery of St. Werburgh into the Bishop’s palace; unto which jurisdiction was allotted Cheshire, Lancashire, Richmondshire, and part of Cumberland; and was appointed to be within the province of York.”

John Bird, D.D., “formerly a fryer of the order of the Carmelites, was the first bishop of this new foundation.”  He was deprived of his bishopric by Queen Mary, A.D. 1544, because of his adhesion to the Protestant faith.  He was succeeded by George Cotes, who survived his consecration only about two years.  He died at Chester, and was buried in the Cathedral near the Bishop’s throne.  His memory is stained with the blood of George Marsh, who, during his episcopate, suffered martyrdom at Boughton.  The next Bishop was Cuthbert Scott, who was vice-chancellor of Oxford in 1554 and 1555, one of the delegates commissioned by Cardinal Pole to visit that University, and one of the four Bishops who, with as many divines, undertook to defend the Church of Rome against an equal number of reformed divines.  He was deposed by Queen Elizabeth, for some abusive expressions uttered against Her Majesty.  William Downham, chaplain to Queen Elizabeth before she came to the crown, was consecrated Bishop of Chester, A.D. 1561.  He died Nov., 1577, and was buried in the choir of the Cathedral, having sat Bishop sixteen years and a half: from that time to the present there has been a regular succession of Bishops of the Reformed Church.

John Graham, D.D., formerly Master of Christ’s College, Cambridge, was consecrated to the see of Chester in 1848, in succession to the present Archbishop of Canterbury, and is at present fulfilling the duties of his high office with pious earnestness, diligence, and general approbation.

Municipal institutions were first introduced into Britain by the Romans.  York was one of the first towns in England on which they were conferred.  We can discover very little to aid us in tracing the progressive history of the municipal government of the ancient city of Chester until the time of Ranulph, the third Earl Palatine, and nephew of the Earl Hugh; but being a Roman colony, the inhabitants no doubt were regarded as Roman citizens, and as such entitled to the same privileges which Rome itself possessed.  Pennant supposes that the Roman prætorium occupied p. 13the site on which St. Peter’s church is now built.  In this tribunal, if the case be so, the civil law and power would be exercised in those days.

“Before the city had any charter,” says King’s ‘Vale Royal,’ “they used by prescription divers liberties, and enjoyed a guild mercatory, that is, a brotherhood of merchants, and that whosoever was not admitted of that society, he could not use any trade or traffick within the city, nor be a tradesman therein.  And the tenor of this guild mercatory did even run in these words:—‘Sicut hactenus usi fuerint;’ and was after confirmed under the Earl’s seal.  And there were appointed two overseers, and those were appointed out of the chiefest of the citizens, and were greatly respected of the citizens as officers that had the special care of maintaining those privileges, before a mayor was ordained.”  These officers were elected annually, and were denominated leave-lookers; they were accustomed to go round the city to see that its privileges were preserved, and sometimes used to take small sums, called leave-lookerage, for leave for non-freemen to sell wares by retail.

In the reign of Edward the Confessor, the government of the city was vested in twelve judges, selected from the vassals of the king, the earl, and the bishop.

The first charter granted to the city was by the first Ranulph, also styled Ranulph le Meschin, third Earl of Chester, who died in 1128.  It grants to his tenants demesne of Chester, that none but they or their heirs shall buy or sell merchandise, brought to the city by sea or land, except at the fairs holden at the nativity of St. John the Baptist, and on the feast of St. Michael; and is directed thus—Ranul. com. Cestræ. constabulario. dupifero justiciar, vicecom. baron. militibus bullivis et omnibus servientibus suis præsentibus et futuris, salutem; Sciatis, &c.; and so makes a large grant to the city, and warrants the same strongly against his heirs, and appoints forfeitures upon all that shall withstand.  The charter, which is without date, is witnessed by Domino Hugone, Abbate Cestriæ.  Domino Hugone le Orebi, tunc. justiciar.  Warren de Vernon, &c., &c.  It was confirmed by the other two Earls Ranulphs, and also by Earl John, who strictly prohibited all buying and selling except as aforesaid, with other additions.  King John and Henry the Second also established it, with the addition of some further privileges.  Henry the Third granted three charters, in the first of which he recites, that he hath seen the former charters of the Earls, and doth grant and confirm p. 14domesticis hominibus Cestr. &c., that none shall buy or sell merchandise in the city, but citizens, except in the fairs, &c., sub pœna £10.

It was at this time that, so far as we can ascertain, the first mayor was created. [14]  In the 26th year of Henry’s reign, Sir Walter Lynnet was the first who was invested with civic honours and authority.  The mayoralty of Chester is, therefore, a very ancient one, only 58 years younger, we believe, than that of London.

In 1300 Edward the First confirmed the former charter of his father, Henry the Third; and by the same charter gave the city of Chester, with the appurtenances, liberties, and freedoms to the citizens of Chester and their heirs, to be holden of him and his heirs for ever, paying yearly £100.  He granted them also the election of coroners and pleas of the crown, and that the citizens shall have sock, sack, toll, theme, irfangtheof, outfangtheof, and to be free throughout all the land and dominion of toll, passage, &c.

Many other charters follow, and other matters connected with the government of the city.

Richard the Second, in 1347, “for the furtherance of justice and better execution thereof, grants unto his subjects, maiors, sheriffs, and commonality of the said city, to hold their courts; and limited what processes they may award in actions, personal felonies, appeals, process of uttagary, as at the common law;” and since then the sessions of the peace have continued to be held down to the present time.

Henry Seventh, “in consideration that through the decay of the haven and river, by many burstings forth, was become sandy and impassable, as before, for merchandise,” remitteth £80 annually of the fee farm rent.  And the said King Henry Seventh granteth that the city of Chester and the suburbs, towns, and hamlets thereof, the castle excepted, should be a county of itself, by the name of the county of Chester.

Henry the Eighth sent letters in parchment under his privy seal to the Mayor of Chester, charging that the citizens should not be pressed unto the war, but remain within the city for the defence thereof.  He also, by letters patent, discharged the city from being a sanctuary for malefactors, which was by proclamation removed to Stafford.  In the 32nd year of the same reign, the city obtained p. 15the privilege of returning two burgesses as its representatives in the English parliament.

The important changes effected in the municipal corporations of England and Wales in 1835 render it unnecessary to enter further into the various charters granted to the city of Chester.  By that Act, the local government was vested in town councillors, elected by the burgesses, and who serve for a term of three years.  Chester is divided into five wards for the election of the council; each ward elects six councillors, two of whom retire from office annually.  The councillors elect ten aldermen, who hold their office for six years; and any member of the council is eligible to the office of mayor.

The following is a list of those who have served the office of mayor of Chester:—

1251 Sir Walter Lynnett, Knt.

1677 William Ince, Esq.

1696 Peter Bennet, Esq.

1700 Hugh Starkie, Esq.

1702 William, Earl of Derby.

1704 Edward Partington, Esq.

1705 Edward Puleston, Esq.

1708 James Mainwaring, Esq.

1709 William Allen, Esq.

1710 Thomas Partington, Esq.

1711 John Minshull, Esq.

1712 John Thomason, Esq.

1714 Francis Sayer, Esq.

1715 John Stringer, Esq.

1715 Sir Richd. Grosvenor, Bart.

1716 Henry Bennett, Esq.

1717 John Hodgson, Esq.

1718 Alexander Denton, Esq.

1719 Randle Bingley, Esq.

1720 Thomas Edwards, Esq.

1725 John Parker, Esq.

1729 Thomas Brock, Esq.

1731 Trafford Massie, Esq.

1733 Peter Ellamies, Esq.

1734 Roger Massie, Esq.

1736 W. W. Wynn, Esq.

1737 Sir Robt. Grosvenor, Bart.

1738 Nathanael Wright, Esq.

1743 Thomas Davies, Esq.

1744 Thomas Maddock, Esq.

1745 Henry Ridley, Esq.

1746 Edward Yearsley, Esq.

1747 William Edwards, Esq.

1748 Edward Griffith, Esq.

1750 John Hallwood, Esq.

1754 Wm. Cooper, Esq., M.D.

1757 Richard Richardson, Esq.

1758 Thomas Grosvenor, Esq.

1759 Thos. Cholmondeley, Esq.

1760 Thomas Cotgreave, Esq.

1761 Holme Burrows, Esq.

1763 Edward Burrows, Esq.

1764 George French, Esq.

1765 Sir W. W. Wynn, Bart.

1769 Gabriel Smith, Esq.

1773 Panton Ellamies, Esq.

1779 Thomas Amery, Esq.

1781 Henry Higg, Esq.

1783 John Hallwood, Esq.

1784 William Harrison, Esq.

1787 Sir Richd. Grosvenor, Bart.

1795 Richard Ollerhead, Esq.

1803 Edmund Bushell, Esq.

1807 Robert, Earl Grosvenor.

p. 161809 Thomas Evans, Esq.

1810 Thomas Grosvenor, Esq.

1811 Robert Bowers, Esq.

1813 Sir W. W. Wynn, Bart.

1814 John Bedward, Esq.

1815 Sir J. Cotgreave, Knt.

1816 Thomas Francis, Esq.

1817 Henry Bowers, Esq.

1818 Thomas Bradford, Esq.

1819 John Williamson, Esq.

1820 William Seller, Esq.

1821 John S. Rogers, Esq.

1822 William Massey, Esq.

1823 Robert Morris, Esq.

1824 George Harrison, Esq.

1825 John Fletcher, Esq.

1826 John Larden, Esq.

1827 Thomas Francis, Esq.

1827 Henry Bowers, Esq.

1828 Robert Morris, Esq.

1829 William Moss, Esq.

1830 Titus Chaloner, Esq.

1831 Richard Buckley, Esq.

1831 George Harrison, Esq.

1832 John Fletcher, Esq.

1833 George Harrison, Esq.

1834 The same.

1835 The same.

1836 William Cross, Esq.

1837 Thomas Dixon, Esq.

1838 Ed. Samuel Walker, Esq.

1839 John Uniacke, Esq.

1840 The same.

1841 William Wardell, Esq.

1842 William Brown, Esq.

1843 Wm. Henry Brown, Esq.

1844 Henry Kelsall, Esq.

1845 Charles Potts, Esq.

1846 Edward Tilston, Esq.

1847 R. P. Jones, Esq., M.D.

1848 The same.

1849 Sir E. S. Walker, Knt.

1850 John Williams, Esq.

1851 The same.

1852 P. S. Humberston, Esq.

1853 Henry Brown.  Esq., who, dying during his mayoralty, Dr. R. P. Jones was appointed to the office for the unexpired period.

1854 John Smith, Esq.

1855 W. H. Brown, Esq.

1856 Major French.

1857 Peter Eaton, Esq.

1858 P. S. Humberston, Esq.

p. 17CHAPTER II.
ROMAN ANTIQUITIES.

Altars, Roman pavements, pigs of lead, coins, and other precious relics of former times, have been discovered in various places in the city and neighbourhood, some of them within a very recent period.  Now that the people are happily being taught to estimate local antiquities at their proper worth, and a spirit of inquiry is being invoked respecting them, it is to be hoped that any future discoveries that may be made will be carefully preserved.  There is no doubt that, through recklessness or ignorance, many links in the chain of our local history have been neglected and lost.

On a projecting rock in Handbridge, situate at the south end of the bridge, is a sculptured figure of Minerva, with her symbol, the owl.  Time has very much obliterated and defaced this ancient sculpture, called Edgar’s Cave, which is doubtless of Roman date.  Close to the figure is a great hole in the rock; and the field in which it is situated is known by the name of Edgar’s field to the present day.

In the year 1653 an altar, supposed to have been dedicated to Jupiter, was dug up in Foregate-street, and which is preserved among the Arundelian marbles at Oxford.  The back of it is plain: on the sides of it there are neatly sculptured a Patera, a cup which was used in their libations; and a Thuribulum, or censer for burning incense.  The inscription, when perfect, was—

I . O . M . TANARO
T . ELVPIVS . GALER
PRAESENS . GUNTA
PRI . LEG . XX . V . V
COMMODO . ET . LATERANO
COS
V . S . L . M.

which Leigh, in his ‘Natural History of Lancashire and Cheshire,’ explains thus—

p. 18JOVI OPTIMO MAXIMO TANARO
TITUS ELUPIUS GALERIUS
PRÆSENS GUBERNATOR
PRINCIBUS LEGIONIS VICESSIMÆ VICTRICIÆ VALERIÆ
COMMODO ET LATERANO CONSULIBUS,
VOTUM SOLVIT LUBENS MERITO.

In the year 1693, on the occasion of digging a place for a cellar in Eastgate-street, an altar was found buried amongst a great quantity of ashes, horns, and bones of several animals.  On the back of the altar is represented a curtain with a festoon, over which is a globe surrounded with palm branches.  On one side is a vase with two handles, from which issue acanthus leaves, supporting a basket of fruit; on the other side is a Genius with a Cornucopia in his left hand, and an altar on his right: on the top of the altar is a well sculptured human face within the Thuribulum.

This altar was found with the inscription downwards, and near it were two medals, one of Vespasian, the other is assigned to Constantius Chlorus, son-in-law of Maximian.  The inscription, with restorations, runs thus:—

PRO . SAL . DOMIN
ORUM . NN . INVI
CTISSIMORVM
AVGG . GENIO . LOCI
FLAVIVS . LONGVS
TRIB . MIL . LEG . XX . VV
LONGINVS . FIL
EIVS . DOMO
SAMOSATA
V . S

Mr. Roach Smith says, “The persons who erected this altar were of Samosata, a town of Syria, celebrated as the birth-place of Lucian.”

In 1779 an altar was found in Watergate-street, which is still preserved in the grounds of Oulton Park, the seat of Sir Philip de Malpas Grey Egerton, Bart, M.P.: at the sides are the rod of Esculapius, the Cornucopiæ and rudder, a patera, urn, sacrificial knife, and other instruments.  The inscription, with a few restorations, is as follows:—

FORTVNAE . REDVCI
ESCVLAP . ET . SALVTI . EIVS
LIBERT . ET . FAMILIA
CAII . PONTII . T . F . CAL . MAMILIANI
RVFI . ANTISTIANI . FVNINSVLANI
VETTONIANI . LEG . AVG
D . D

p. 19In the year 1821 a handsome altar was found by some labourers in a field called “The Daniels,” in Great Boughton, near Chester, between the Tarvin and Huntingdon roads: it is now preserved at Eaton Hall, the seat of the Marquis of Westminster.  It is of red sandstone; the mouldings are bold, but it has no other ornaments upon it except the scrolls which support the Thuribulum.  The inscription is the same on both sides, and is as follows:—

NYMPHIS
ET
FONTIBVS
LEG XX.
V V

It has been supposed that the reason why this altar was erected on that particular spot, was because of the pure water which springs on that side of the town: the old Abbot’s well is in that quarter, whence water was formerly conveyed by pipes to some of the monasteries in Chester.

In 1729, in digging a cellar in Watergate-street, a stone was found with an inscription, of which the following fragment only remains:—

NVMINI . AVG
ALMAE . CET
NVS . ACTOR
EX . VOTO . FACI

In the Chapter-house of Chester Cathedral, there is a red sandstone, 24 inches by 8 inches, found on the site of the Deanery, bearing this inscription:—

COH . I . E. OCRATI
MAXIMINI . M . P

Mr. Roach Smith, an eminent authority in such matters, says that this inscription is to be ascribed to the century of Ocratius Maximus, of the first Cohort of the 20th Legion: it has evidently been a facing stone, probably in the city wall; it resembles in character the centurial commemorations on the stones in the great northern wall, and, like them, apparently refers to the completion of a certain quantity of building.

In the year 1738, in digging the foundation of a house in the market-place, a fragment of a slate stone was found, on which was cut in bas-relief, the figure of a Retiarius armed with his trident and net, and a considerable part of the shield of the Secutor.  The Secutores and the Retiarii were gladiators, distinguished by their armour and manner of fighting.  They bore in their left hand a p. 20trident, and in the right a net, with which the combatant attempted to entangle his adversary, by throwing it over his head, and suddenly drawing it together, and then with his trident he usually slew him.

Horsley describes a small statue of stone found near the Dee, supposed to be either Atys or Mithras.  It had a Phrygian bonnet, a mantle on the shoulders, a short vest on the body, and a declining torch in the hands.

On pulling down the old Eastgate in 1768, some portions of the original Roman structure were discovered, consisting of four arches, two in a line, and fifteen feet distant from each other; between the two arches fronting the east was a statue of the god Mars, holding in his right hand a spear handle, and his left resting on a shield.  This was cut in one large stone, of about a half ton weight.  There was also found a piece of rude sculpture about two feet in height, representing a Roman soldier.

In the year 1800 a Roman Ring, with an onyx stone in the centre, was found by some workmen when digging in a garden in Upper Northgate-street, and is now in the possession of R. J. Hastings, Esq., of Chester.

In 1803 part of a mosaic pavement, about five feet square, was discovered about six feet below the surface of the earth, on digging a cellar in what was then known by the name of the Nun’s Garden, near the Castle.

In 1813 in sinking the foundation of a cellar at Netherleigh House, a short distance from Chester, a considerable number of large vases of red clay were discovered; they were regularly arranged in vaults, each vault containing four or six vases.  Some of these were filled with calcined bones and small lumps of white clay.  One of the vases was secured in a perfect state, but the others in most part were destroyed, through the carelessness of the workmen.  A demi-figure, habited in a sacerdotal costume, was found at the same time.

In 1814 a tesselated pavement was discovered near the gateway of the Castle, in making the alterations there, part of which was destroyed, and the remainder covered up again.

In April, 1850, whilst excavating for a drain on the premises belonging to Mr. Wynne, carpenter, on the east side of Bridge-street, adjoining the Feathers-lane, a portion of a tile flooring, of mediæval construction, was discovered, in a remarkably good state of preservation.  This floor was made the subject of a lecture by p. 21Mr. Harrison, architect, which is embodied in the reports published by the Chester Archæological Society.  Large square Roman tiles of red clay are frequently found in removing old buildings, and breaking up the pavements, in Chester.  Many of these are stamped with the inscription of the 20th Legion, LEG. XX. VV., and others are marked, LEG. VV. Œ.

These tiles were manufactured by the soldiers of the Legion, who were accomplished masons, being trained to use the pickaxe, spade, and trowel, as well as military arms.  In times of peace they were employed in building houses and public edifices, constructing roads, and tilling the fields.  To them “we are indebted for nearly all the inscriptions discovered in this country, which abound in the districts where they were regularly quartered, or employed on public works, and are comparatively scarce in other localities.”

A great number of coins have been found at various times within the walls of Chester, of Vespasian, Trajan, Hadrian, Fl. Val. Constantius, and other Roman emperors, some in brass and others in silver.  A very fine gold coin of Faustina the elder, wife of Antonius Pius, was found a few years ago, near the Castle; and in 1826 a very beautiful gold coin was dug up in a field at the east end of Captain Wrench’s house, which is in the possession of Captain Wrench.  On the obverse is the head of Nero, with his title, NERO CESAR AVGVSTVS, and on the reverse is a figure in a sitting posture, and the legend SALVS.

Whilst excavating a drain in Grosvenor-street, in 1828, several coins were found, some of which were in very good preservation, especially one of Trajan and another of Geta.  A lamp made of lead, and an ivory stylus, were also dug up at the same time.  In the same year was found, near the new church of St. Bridget, a small altar, without any inscription to assist the antiquarian in ascertaining anything respecting its dedication.  Within the space of a few inches from the altar was found a brass medal, on which the figure of the god Neptune is clearly delineated, with his trident, and a ship with her sails.  The legend on it is NEPTVNVS; on the reverse is Hercules with his club, and a female figure by his side, and around is the inscription HERCVLES ET PALLAS.

A short time ago a small votive altar was found by W. Ayrton, Esq., at Boughton, near to the spot where the altar, previously described as dedicated to the Nymphs, was discovered.

p. 22The inscription has been interpreted thus:—

GENO. AVERNI. IVL. QVINTILIANVS.
Julius Quintilianus to the Genius of Avernus.

Examples of dedication to genii are very numerous; the belief that they presided over the welfare of cities, families, and individuals, was part of the religious system of the Romans.  It was generally believed that every individual had two genii, the one good, the other bad.  With reference to the particular inscription to the genius Avernus, Mr. Roach Smith says, “that he finds no other mention: but the locality in which the altar was found confirms the literal interpretation that the genius of the well known lake in Carpania is here to be understood as addressed by Julius Quintilianus.  The waters of the lake were much used by the Romans in magical rites, as the classical reader will be reminded by the line in Virgil’s description of the incantation scene, preparatory to Dido’s death:—

“‘Sparserat et latices simulatos fontis Averni.’”

A short time ago there was found in Common Hall-street, imbedded in a thick wall several feet under ground, a singular block or pig of lead.

Unfortunately the inscription has only been partially preserved, inasmuch as it presents a different reading from others which have been discovered, and which Camden mentions as being very general in Cheshire; but those which he records as having come under his notice had inscribed on them:—

IMP . DOMIT . AVG . GER . DE . CEANG.

These pigs of lead appear to have been paid as tribute by the Britons to their Roman masters, “the harsh exaction of which was one of the causes of the insurrection.”

A great quantity of the Red Samian, and other kinds of pottery, have been discovered within the walls of Chester, which are supposed to have been of foreign origin.  The names of the potters were:—

HIVNV.—SEV. . . .—BELINOIM.—ALBINVS.—BITVRIX.—ATILLVS.—VABIVS . F.—I | OFFIC.—CRESI . M.—PVONI . M.—E S CV S I . M.

The following recent discoveries we extract from the First Report of the Chester Architectural, Archæological, and Historic Society, incorporated in a most able and interesting paper by C. Roach Smith, Esq.

Weaver-street.—In excavating for sewers was found, at the depth p. 23of seven feet, a raised foot-path, edged with curb-stones, and a regular paved road, of marble stones set in sand; four feet above this, a layer of charcoal; at ten or eleven feet deep, a quantity of Roman tile.

Common Hall-street.—Up the centre, a row of foundations formed of concrete (broken marble stones in hard mortar), about nine feet apart, all in a line, and about ten feet deep, presenting the appearance of having supported columns.  A large square block of stone, four feet two inches square, and sixteen inches deep, without lewis holes, on a bed of concrete.  A portion of a column of very debased classical form, about two feet in diameter; at the top is a hole, four inches and a half square, and the same deep, and a similar hole at the bottom; the square part seems never to have been smoothly dressed; the workmen said it was fast to the grouted concrete, at the depth of ten feet; mouldings, broken tiles, and pottery, coins of Pius, Tetricus, &c.; a quantity of animals’ bones, a stag’s skull, with the horns sawn off, and a wild boar’s tusk.  In the adjoining street, a moulded block of cornice, eight inches thick, on the under side of which is a rude inscription; imbedded in a thick wall, at the same place, a pig of lead; a capital of a pillar.  The tiles are of various forms, some overlapping one another, some with a kind of pattern or letters, others with marks of animals’ feet.  One perfect, twenty-one inches by thirteen, of singular form.  Also, what appears to have been a portion of a gable end.

In December, 1850, whilst fresh drains were being made, an old Roman vase was found in a yard belonging to Mr. Parkinson, plumber, in Northgate-street, between the Abbey-square and the Abbey Green.  The labourer who was employed in the drain in that neighbourhood unhappily shattered this vase in pieces.  The fragments, however, were collected together with great care, and re-united by Mr. Parkinson, in whose possession it now remains.  There were found with it some portions of annular brass money, much corroded.

Near to the Feathers Hotel, in Bridge-street, in a cellar now occupied as an earthenware shop, are the remains of the Roman hypocaust and sweating bath, the use of which appears to have been very general amongst the Romans, and regarded by them as one of their chief luxuries.  From the details which have been handed down to us by ancient historians, respecting these curious erections, we learn that they were not only constructed so as to secure the comfort and convenience of the bathers to the fullest p. 24extent, but were often built in the most magnificent style of architecture.  The one in Bridge-street, which circumstances have happily spared, is in a tolerably perfect state.  It is fifteen feet long, and eight wide, and six feet seven inches deep.  There is an adjoining chamber, or præfurnium, of the same dimensions.  The Hypocaust is supported by twenty-eight square pillars, two feet eight inches high, and one foot square at the top and bottom.  Over these pillars are placed bricks, eighteen inches square, and three inches thick, which support others two feet square, perforated with small holes, about six inches asunder, for the purpose of conveying the heat upwards.  Immediately above this uppermost layer of bricks is a terrace floor, composed of several layers of lime, pounded bricks, &c., in different proportions and degrees of fineness.  The room above is the Sudatorium, or Sweating Room, which received the hot air from the Hypocaust below.  Around the walls were benches, rising one above another, on which the bathers sat, until they burst out into a free perspiration; after which they were scraped with a bronze instrument called a Strigil—thin and flexible, like a hoop—by which all impurities were removed from the skin; they were then shampooed, rubbed down with towels (Lintea), and their bodies anointed with oil, by an attendant called Aliptes, after which they returned to the Tepidarium, where they attired themselves, and cooled gradually before returning to the open air.

In 1779, another Hypocaust, and the remains of several adjoining rooms of a Roman house, were discovered in digging the foundations of houses near the Watergate.  The pillars of this Hypocaust, the altar dedicated to Fortuna Redux, Esculapius et Salus, and a few other antiquities, were found at the same time, and were removed to Oulton Park.

But small portions of the original Roman wall of Chester now exist, although undoubted vestiges of that ancient work are easily discernible.  The present wall, no doubt, stands on the original foundation.  The Roman pavement has been often discovered at the depth of a few feet below the modern road, in the principal streets, which, in all probability, run in the same direction as those of the Roman City.  During the last few years, many remarkable antiquities have been discovered in making excavations for new buildings; and among such remains, a fine Roman altar, bearing a Greek inscription, has excited great interest and speculation.

p. 25CHAPTER III.
A WALK ROUND THE WALLS OF CHESTER.

The Chester walls are the only perfect specimen of this order of ancient fortification now to be met with in England.  There is nothing, perhaps, which impresses a stranger more forcibly, or sooner attracts his interest and curiosity, than these embattled memorials of the olden time.

In King’s ‘Vale Royal’ it is stated that they were first built by Marius, King of the Britons, A.D. 73.  Leland and Selden, both authors of credit, attribute to the Romans the foundation of Chester.  According to Geoffry of Monmouth, Higden, Bradshaw the Monk, and Stowe, it is of an origin more ancient than Rome itself, and was only re-edified by the legionaries; but, in support of their assertions, the aforesaid writers, all of whom delight in the marvellous, give no other authority save vague tradition.  On the other hand, the Walls of Chester, at this hour, bear witness to the truth of Leland and Selden’s account of their origin.

They are built of soft freestone, and command extensive and beautiful prospects.  The view from the Northgate, with the Welsh Hills in the distance, is universally admired.  The Walls are a mile and three-quarters and one hundred and twenty-one yards in circumference, and are kept in repair by the Corporation.

We commence our perambulation at a flight of steps on the North side of the Eastgate.  Proceeding to the right a short distance, the venerable Cathedral arrests our attention.

At the end of Abbey-street is a small archway or passage through the Walls, leading to the Kale-yards, or cabbage gardens, which formerly belonged to the Abbot and Convent of St. Werburgh.  This opening was permitted to be made for their convenience, in the reign of Edward I., to prevent the necessity of bringing their vegetables by a circuitous road through the Eastgate.

A few paces farther on was a quadrangular abutment, on which formerly stood a tower called The Sadlers’ Tower, from the Company of Sadlers holding their meetings there.  The tower was p. 26taken down in 1780; and the abutment, which marked the place where it stood, was taken down, in 1828.

The elevated tower on the Canal bank belongs to the extensive Shot and White Lead Manufactory of Messrs. Walker, Parker, and Co., and forms a prominent object in the different approaches to the City.

The lofty tower which stands at the angle is called

The Phœnix Tower,

which was formerly used by some of the companies of the city, whose arms were placed upon it, as a chamber for business.  Of these the Phœnix, the crest of the Painters’ and Stationers’ Company, which was put up in 1613, now only remains.

From the summit of this tower, King Charles I. had the mortification to see his army, under the generalship of Sir Marmaduke Langdale, defeated by the Parliamentary forces, which were led by General Pointz, at the battle of Rowton Moor, on the 27th September, 1645.  From its elevation and command of view over the township of Newton, it was formerly called Newton’s Tower.  Linked as it is with that eventful battle during one of the most significant epochs of our national history, it is not surprising that it is always regarded with intense curiosity, as a suggestive memorial of most interesting occurrences.  The mind is involuntarily carried back to the period when our country was involved in the discord, strife, and bloodshed of civil war; and, perhaps, as involuntarily reflects on the genial and happy change which the progress of knowledge, freedom, and religion has accomplished in the minds and institutions of the people.  We can now occupy the very spot on which the hapless monarch beheld the discomfiture of his hopes and power; but can gaze upon a prospect very different from that which greeted his vision, and with emotions more grateful than those which then distracted the monarch’s breast.  His Majesty remained that night in Chester, and on the following day marched with 500 horse into Wales.

Beneath the walls here, deeply cut in the solid rock, is the Ellesmere and Chester Canal.

Between the Eastgate and Phœnix Tower the remains of the Roman Walls are conspicuous in the lower courses.  At the distance of about seven feet from the top of the parapet, the Roman portion is terminated by a cornice, which extends in broken lengths for at least 100 yards.

p. 27In the time of the great Rebellion, a ditch surrounded the Walls, from the Eastgate to the Water Tower.  The view which is obtained from the elevation of this part of the Walls is very extensive and beautiful.  As you approach the North from the Eastgate, the ranges of Peckforton Hills, Beeston Castle, and the Forest of Delamere, form the background of the landscape, marked on the foreground with Waverton and Christleton churches; and, still nearer, the commodious Railway Station.

Next we arrive at

The Northgate.

The ancient gate, over which the gaol was situated, and where criminals were formerly executed, was taken down in 1808, and the prisoners removed to a more commodious building on the south side of the infirmary.

The present gate is a Doric structure, forming a capacious elliptic arch of white stone, divided from two smaller ones at the sides by two pillars.  It was erected at the expense of the late Marquis of Westminster.  The North side bears this inscription—

PORTAM SEPTENTRIONALEM SVBSTRVCTAM
A ROMANIS VETVSTATE JAM DILAPSAM
IMPENSIS SVIS AB INTEGRO RESTITVENDAM
CVRAVIT ROBERTVS COMES GROSVENOR.
A. R. GEORGII TERTII LI.

On the South side is the following:—

INCHOTA GVLIELMO NEWELL ARM. MAI.
MDCCCVIII.
PERFECTA THOMA GROSVENOR ARM. MAI.
MDCCCX.
THOMA HARRISON ABCHITECTO.

The summit of this gate commands a most extensive and delightful prospect.  On each side of the gate is a commodious flight of steps, by which the passenger may descend into Northgate-street.

Near the gate, and on the left hand of Upper Northgate-street, stands the Blue-coat Hospital, which was founded by subscription in 1700, at the suggestion of Bishop Stratford.  The greater part of the present structure was built in 1717, partly at the expense of the Corporation and partly by benefactions.  Thirty-two boys are boarded, clothed, and educated, from the age of twelve to fourteen.  There are also sixty probationary day scholars, who succeed to the vacancies of the former.  They are well educated in the various branches of useful knowledge, and at the age of fourteen are provided with respectable situations.

p. 28The chapel, dedicated to St. John the Baptist, called Little St. John’s, occupies the south wing of this building; it was formerly an hospital, or sanctuary, and endowed with great privileges.  It is extra-parochial, and a perpetual curacy is in the gift of the Corporation.  The Rev. William Clarke is the present curate.  The hospital is of great antiquity, having been founded by Randal, Earl of Chester, for a master, three chaplains, and thirteen citizens of Chester, being either “poor or sillie, or poor or feeble persons.”  The mastership was granted in the ninth year of Edward Second to the prior of Birkenhead.

The chapel and hospital being destroyed during the civil wars, were rebuilt by Colonel Roger Whitley, to whom King Charles Second granted the hospital estate for his life and twenty years after.  When the city charter was renewed in 1686, the reversions were granted to the mayor and citizens for ever, as trustees for the hospital.  The Corporation obtained possession in 1703, and have since exercised the right of presentation.  In the time of King Henry VIII. it consisted of a chaplain and six poor brethren; and had lands and profits to the amount of £28 10s. 4d.  In later days there were in the Chapel-yard six almshouses for widows, who were each allowed £1 6s. 8d. a year and some perquisites.  In 1801, Alderman Crewe bequeathed £30 per annum to be divided amongst them in equal proportions.  Under an amended scheme, by order of the Court of Chancery, in 1852, the almshouses were rebuilt, and provision is now made for thirteen “poor and impotent persons of both sexes,” to each of whom the sum of £26 a year, by weekly payments of 10s., is given.  They have free occupation of the houses, and £30 per annum.  Alderman Crewe’s legacy is expended for their benefit in coals and other articles of domestic comfort.

Proceeding on our circuit, we next reach a curious square building called Morgan’s Mount, a platform on the right, accessible by a flight of steps, underneath which is a sort of chamber, apparently one of the stations for a sentinel.  From the summit we have a wide-spreading and enchanting prospect, exhibiting the windings of the Dee to its estuary; Flint Castle; the Jubilee Column, on Moel Fammau; the Lighthouse, at the point of Ayr; the beautiful range of the Clwyddian hills; and the church and castle of Hawarden.  On the right, a very excellent view is presented of the

Training College,

p. 29which was erected from a design and under the superintendence of Messrs. J. C. and G. Buckler, of London, at an estimated cost of £10,000, raised by public subscription, assisted by a grant from Government, and was completed in September, 1842.  The institution is under the presidency of the Lord Bishop of the diocese, and has the sanction of the Deans and Chapters of Chester and Manchester.  The object it seeks to promote is, the supply of the parochial schools of the Diocese of Chester with masters well qualified by a sound religious and scientific training, for the discharge of their important duties.  Hitherto, it has nobly sustained its purpose, and, by regularly sending forth men whose minds have been brought under thorough discipline, and well furnished with general knowledge and science, is doing very much towards the elevation of parochial education in the diocese.  The college is under the able direction of the Rev. Arthur Rigg, M.A., of Christ’s College, Cambridge.  A handsome chapel is attached to the college.

In the Minutes of the Committee of Council on Education for 1850, there are the following remarks, by the Rev. Henry Moseley, upon the Chester Training College:—

“I have to bear the same testimony as heretofore to the excellent discipline of the Institution; to the great order that pervades it; and to the judicious arrangements made in respect to the industrial training of the students, the industry, cheerfulness, and activity with which these labours are pursued, in the intervals of study, is most pleasing to contemplate.  I know no other training school which, in respect to these things, appears to me superior to this; and I attach to them, in a moral point of view, the first importance.  Nor do I know any other in which the buildings appear to me better adapted to the use of a training school, or in which those minor arrangements, on which the domestic comfort of the inmates and the good order of the household depend, are more carefully observed.”

A few paces further on is an ancient tower, formerly called the Goblin’s Tower, but now known by the name of Pemberton’s Parlour.  Being in a ruinous condition, part of it was taken down in 1702, and the remainder renovated and repaired.  On the front was some excellent carved work in stone, and the names of the then Mayor (the Earl of Derby) and the other corporate officers of the year in which the repairs were made; but in consequence of the stone being of a soft and friable nature, and from other causes, p. 30both the inscription and the carved work are now almost obliterated.  The inscription, so far as it is legible, is as follows:—

“ * * * year of the glorious reign of Queen Anne divers wide breaches in these walls were rebuilt, and other decays therein were repaired; 2,000 yards of the pavement were new flagged or paved, and the whole repaired, regulated, and adorned, at the expense of £1,000 and upwards.  Thomas Hand, Esq., Mayor, 1701.  The Right Honourable William, Earl of Derby, Mayor, 1702, who died in his Mayoralty.”

On the left is a large field, anciently called Barrow Field, which was used by the Roman soldiers for their military exercises; a vast number of bodies were buried here at one of the periods when the plague raged so severely in the city.

Continuing our route westward, we next come to

The Water Tower,

an ancient fortress, erected for the purpose of repelling the approach of maritime foes, for it appears that formerly the river flowed under this part of the walls, so that vessels could sail close by the Tower.  At high tide, the whole of the land on which are now situated Crane-street and the neighbourhood, was covered with water.  At the south angle of the walls is an old square tower, anciently called Bonwaldesthorne’s Tower, from which is an embattled passage to the Water Tower, which was built in 1322, by contract for £100, by John Helpstone, a mason.  The dimensions were 24 yards in height, and 10½ yards in diameter.  It had openings for cannon and rings in the walls, to which ships were formerly moored.  This noble bulwark is suggestive of reflections of deep historic interest; for at the siege of Chester by the Republican army, this place was bombarded from the farm-house called Brewer’s Hall, on the opposite side of the river, but without success.  Many a gallant sentinel has here kept loyal watch against the approach of the enemy.  Happily, our age needs not these ancient fortifications for the warlike purpose to which they were originally devoted, and as an exhibition of the genius of the thirteenth and nineteenth centuries in happy contrast, this tower, built for war, is now occupied as a

Museum of the Mechanics’ Institution,

and is devoted to the more beneficent object of science and general improvement.  Although the Museum is but of recent origin, the zeal and liberality of its supporters have already well furnished it with valuable relies, which will interest the antiquary, and other p. 31curiosities of more modern date, which afford gratification to all.  The munificent liberality of William Wardell, Esq., a devoted friend to every enterprise which contemplates the social and intellectual advancement of the citizens, enables us to point out an attractive object in the

Camera Obscura,

which is situated on the upper part of the tower.  We can promise the reader much amusement from this excellent instrument, which will furnish him with a most charming prospect of the diversified and lovely scenery of the district.  On the top of the tower is fixed a very good telescope by Dollond, which commands a most extensive and magnificent view.  If the day be favourable, and the atmosphere clear, we can stretch our gaze over a wide and truly grand range of objects, embracing the Great Ormshead at Llandudno in Carnarvonshire, the Wrekin in Shropshire, Moel Fammau and the Welsh Hills, towering aloft in their tranquil majesty.  Across the river is Brewer’s Hall, which we have mentioned, where Cromwell’s army erected a battery, for the purpose of destroying this tower, “but which had no great effect;” close by is the Railway Viaduct of forty-seven arches, and the Bridge crossing the Dee on cast-iron girders; the whole scene forming an exceedingly fine panorama.

At the foot of the flight of steps close by are the City Baths and Wash-houses.  The swimming bath is very capacious, and the necessary adjuncts most complete: there are also private and shower baths.

We now resume our walk; and, proceeding southwards from the Water Tower, on the left, is

The Infirmary;

a handsome brick building, founded by Dr. William Stratford, who bequeathed £300 to the charity.  It was opened on the 17th March, 1761.  It is capable of containing 100 beds, with commodious offices, and excellent accommodation for its respective officers.  The north part of the building is exclusively devoted to a fever ward.  This asylum for the afflicted is liberally supported by voluntary subscriptions.  Donors of twenty guineas, and subscribers of two guineas per annum, are governors, with the privilege of recommending two in-patients, and six out-door patients annually.

The inmates receive the most humane and skilful attention from p. 32the medical staff, which consists of Honorary Physicians and Surgeons, a Resident Surgeon, and an Assistant.

The number of patients admitted during the year 1857 were—

Of all the charitable institutions which do honour to the benevolence of the city, the Infirmary ranks the first in beneficial and important operations, and eminently deserves the sympathy and support of the public.

The next large building close by is

The City Gaol,

which also includes the House of Correction; both are under the superintendence of a committee of the Town Council.  The Gaol is in the western part of the building, with a good Doric entrance.  Over the front entrance, within the iron railing, the condemned criminals are executed.  The entrance to the House of Correction is at the east end, and is also of stone.  Each of these establishments has four courts, with cells and day rooms adjoining; and both are under the government of one gaoler and a male and female assistant.  There is a chapel common to both establishments.  The chaplain is appointed by the Corporation.  In consequence of the escapes the prisoners have succeeded in making from time to time, many improvements have been made in the internal arrangements of the prison, since it was first built, respecting the classification of prisoners and other matters; and the outworks of the building have received some important additions to ensure their greater security.  A little further on to the left is Stanley-place, a pleasant, open square of modern residences, leading to the Linen Hall Cheese Mart, which is well supplied at the fairs, held six times during the year, with Cheese from the dairies of Cheshire and North Wales.

We now ascend a handsome gateway called

The Watergate,

the custody of which formerly belonged to the Earls of Derby, who held a valuable river jurisdiction, in executing the mayor’s warrants on the Dee, which formerly flowed close underneath.  It was purchased from the Derby family by the Corporation in 1778, taken down in 1788, and the present structure erected in 1789, the expense being defrayed out of the murage duties fund.  It p. 33consists of a wide and lofty arch, thrown over the Watergate-street, where a rapid descent adds much to its apparent elevation.  The west side bears the following inscription:—

IN THE XXIX. YEAR OF THE REIGN OF GEO. III. IN THE
MAYORALTY OF JOHN HALLWOOD, AND JOHN LEIGH, ESQUIRES,
THIS GATE WAS ERECTED.

THOMAS COTGREAVE, EDWARD BURROWS, ESQUIRES, MURENGERS.

The view from the summit of this gate is very extensive, the objects immediately surrounding adding much to the pleasure of the scene.  On the opposite bank of the river Dee is Curzon Park, with its beautiful villa residences.  On the left is Grosvenor Bridge, with its far-famed noble arch, the widest arch of masonry in the world; a little beyond may be seen the grand lodge entrance to Eaton Park, erected at the cost of £14,000, the toute ensemble forming a most charming picture.  The site of the present Crane-street and the parts adjacent were formerly under water.

Immediately below is the beautiful and spacious meadow called the

Roodeye.

It contains about eighty-four statute acres of land, and is let by the Corporation as a pasture for cattle.  It was once the arena for ancient sports, and the city games and gymnastics were celebrated here, respecting which there are many curious records extant.  Of these, however, the horse races alone remain, which continue to be held in the first week of May, this Spring meeting being considered one of the most important and interesting illustrations of the national sports of the turf.  The course is little more than a mile, and affords the spectators the singular advantage of seeing the horses during the whole race.  The Earl of Chester’s Regiment of Yeomanry Cavalry assembles annually on the Roodeye for exercise.

The antiquity of the Chester races appears from the following extract from the collection of the late Mr. Nicholls of Chorlton, to whose researches the authors of the ‘History of Cheshire’ are much indebted.  The MS. from which this is extracted is entitled,

“Certayne collections of anciante times, concerning the anciante and famous cittie of Chester, collected by that Reverend Man of God, Mr. Robert Rogers, bachelor of divinitie, archdeacon of Chester, parsone of Gooseworth, and prebande in the Cathedral of Chester, being put in scattered notes, and by his son reduced into these chapters following:—

p. 34“OF ST. GEORGE’S RACE, OF LATE TIME INVENTED, AND WHEN ALTERED.

“In A.D. 1609, Mr. William Lester, mercer, beinge mayor of Chester, one Mr. Robert Amerye, ironmonger, sometime sheriffe of Chester (A.D. 1608), he, with the assent of the mayor and cittie, at his own coste chiefly, as I conceive chiefly, caused three silver cupps, of goode value, to be made, the which saide silver cupps were, upon St. George’s daye, for ever to be thus disposed: all gentlemen that would bringe their horses to the Rood-dee that daye, and there run, that horse which with speede did over-rune the reste, shoulde have the beste cuppe there presently delivered, and that horse which came seconde, next the firste, before the reste, had the seconde cuppe there also delivered; and for the thirde cuppe, it was to be run for at the ringe, by any gentleman that woulde rune for the same, upon the said Rood-dee, and upon St. George’s daye; being thus decreed, that every horse putt in soe much monie as made the value of the cupps or bells, and had the money, which horses did winne the same, and the use of the cupps, till that day twelve month, beinge in bonde to deliver in the cupps that daye; soe also for the cuppe for the ringe, which was yearly continued accordingly, until the yeare of our Lord 1623; John Brereton, inn-holder, beinge mayor of Chester, he altered the same after this manner, and caused the three cupps to be sould, and caused more money to be gathered and added, soe that the intereste thereof would make one faire silver cuppe, of the value of £8 as I suppose, it maye be more worth, and the race to be altered, viz., from beyonde the New Tower a great distance, and soe to rune five times from that place rownd about the Rood-dee, and he that overcame all the reste the last course, to have the cuppe freely for ever, then and there delivered, which is continued to this daye.  But here I must not omit the charge, and the solemnitie made the first of St. George’s daye; he had a poet, one Mr. Davies, who made speeches and poeticale verses, which were delivered at the high crosse, before the mayor and aldermen, with shews of his invention, which booke was imprinted and presented to that famous Prince Henry, eldest sonne to the blessed King James, of famous memorie.  Alsoe he caused a man to go upon the spire of St. Peter’s steeple in Chester, and by the fane, at the same tyme he sounded the drum, and displayed a banner upon the top of the same spire.  And this was the original of St. George’s race with the change thereof, as it is now used.”

p. 35On the west side of the Roodeye stands

The House of Industry,

built by the Corporation in 1757, as a refuge for age and indigence.  Warm and cold baths are established for the use of the inmates, whose comfort is most studiously consulted and provided for.  The pleasant row of houses on the right of the Roodeye is called Paradise-row, the site of which, as appears by an ancient map, was once in the bed of the river.

Soon after passing the Watergate, on the left, there is an opening to the city, called Smith’s-walk, at the bottom of which stands a large house, on the site of which formerly stood the Priory of White Friars or Carmelites.

On the north side of the open field on the left is a pleasant mansion, now the Rectory house of St. Bridget’s parish, but formerly the residence of the late Thomas Harrison, Esq., the celebrated architect, who has immortalized his genius in some of the finest works of which Chester can boast.  Near this spot once stood a convent of Benedictine nuns, dedicated to St. Mary.  It was suppressed, with the other lesser monasteries, in 1537, and no vestige of the ancient building now remains.

Before proceeding further on our circuit round the walls, we recommend the visitor to turn off to the right on the road, for the purpose of inspecting the

New Cemetery, near the Grosvenor Bridge.

It is beautifully laid out, and arranged with admirable taste, and was rendered necessary by the overcrowded state of the parochial burial grounds.  Opposite the Cemetery gates is a suspension bridge, for foot passengers, to Curzon Park, whence we have a fine panoramic view of Chester.

We now retrace our steps to survey that interesting structure,

The Castle.

We have no precise authority whereby to ascertain the date of the foundation of Chester Castle.  Some think there is good reason to believe it to be of Roman origin, and of equal antiquity with the City Walls.  Others have fixed the date of its erection A.D. 1069, by William the Conqueror; but there are some considerations which seem to point to an earlier period than this.  It is stated by Camden to have been repaired by Hugh Lupus, and additional fortifications erected by the Norman Earls his successors.  It was p. 36certainly the palace of the local monarchs, as well as their chief stronghold, and retained much of this mixed character until modern alterations were made.  Pennant describes the Castle, as it formerly stood, as being composed of two parts, an upper and a lower, each with a strong gate, defended by a round bastion on each side, with a ditch and draw-bridges.

In 1237, upon the death of John Scott, the last earl of the Norman line, the Commissioners of Henry III. seized Chester Castle for the King.

In 1265 James De Aldithley and Urian De St. Pierre, at the head of the citizens of Chester, besieged Luke De Taney, King’s Justice, in the Castle, which held out for ten weeks, when, upon receiving intelligence of the battle of Evesham, he surrendered.

Henry of Lancaster (afterwards Henry IV.), having taken up arms against Richard II. in 1399, mustered his army upon the bank of the Dee, under the walls of Chester, and Sir Piers Legh of Lyme, an adherent of Richard, was beheaded, and his head set upon the top of the highest tower in the Castle.  Shortly afterwards, the unfortunate Richard and the Earl of Salisbury were brought prisoners to Chester, mounted (says Hall) “upon two little nagges, not worth forty franks,” when the King was delivered “to the Duke of Gloucester’s sonne and the Earl of Arundell’s sonne, that loved him but a little, for he had put their fathers to death, who led him strait to the castell.”

In 1403 Henry Percy, surnamed Hotspur, visited Chester on his way to the fatal field of Shrewsbury, and caused proclamation to be made, that King Richard was yet alive, and a prisoner in Chester Castle, where he might be seen.

Eleanor, Duchess of Gloucester, wife of the Good Duke Humphrey, was confined for several months in Chester Castle, in 1447, previous to her removal to the Isle of Man, under a sentence of perpetual imprisonment, on a charge of “practising the King’s death.”

Here, in 1651, the Puritans, in their peculiar phraseology, “sought the Lord,” by trying and condemning to death the gallant and patriotic Earl of Derby, Sir Timothy Featherstonehaugh, and Captain Benbow.  According to Whitlocke, the Earl “attempted to escape, and was let down by a rope from the leads of his chamber; but some hearing a noise, made after him, and he was retaken upon Dee bank.”

The ancient structure was taken down at the close of the last century, and the present edifice erected on its site.

p. 37The principal entrance is through a handsome portico of Grecian Doric architecture.  It is 103 feet by 35, and consists of a centre and two wings connected by covered passages.  The ten fluted columns, which compose the peristyle in the centre, are each cut out of a single block of stone.  It is situated in the centre of a semicircular sunk fence or foss, 13 feet deep, and 390 feet in diameter, cased with hewn stone, surmounted with stone pedestals at equal distances, and the spaces filled with handsome iron rails, forming the north-west boundary of the esplanade.

On the western side of the esplanade is the Armoury, capable of containing between 30,000 and 40,000 stand of arms.  This is well worthy the inspection of strangers, who cannot fail to be struck with the excellent state in which the military stores are kept, and the tasteful arrangement of the arms.

Within the gate at the east end of this range of buildings is the guard-house, behind which is a venerable tower, called Julius Agricola’s, or Cæsar’s, which is still entire, and partly occupied as a magazine.  Within this tower is a curious chapel, mentioned in the tax-book of Henry VIII. as the chantry “infra Castrum Cestriæ” and yielding as its tenth 10s. 8d.  It is an upper chamber, about 19 feet by 16, and 16 feet in height.  The roof, which is vaulted and groined, is of stone.  On one side is a plain pointed recess in the wall, the back of which appears to have been ornamented with paintings, and was probably the altar.  James II. heard mass in this chapel.

The Gaol and County Hall.

The principal entrance to the Shire Hall is through a portico of twelve columns in double rows, 22 feet high, and 3 feet 1½ inches in diameter, each formed of a single stone.  The ceiling, roof, and covering, are also of stone.  The hall is of a semicircular form, measuring 80 feet by 50, including the judgment-seat, and 44 feet high, and is lighted from above.  The ceiling is a semi-dome, boldly caissoned with ventilators opening to the roof, in the shape of ornamental roses.  It is supported by a row of twelve Ionic columns, each composed of a single stone, from the bases of which there is a gradual descent by a flight of circular steps to the bar, which enables every one in the body of the court to have a perfect view of the judges, counsel, prisoners, and witnesses.  There is a subterraneous passage from the dock to the prison, which affords both facility and safety in the removal of the prisoners.

p. 38On the right of the entrance to the County Hall are the Grand Jury Room and the Prothonotary’s Offices.  In a small room on the ground floor is the model of the Grosvenor Bridge, and there are full length portraits of William III., Charles II., George I., George II., and Frederick, Prince of Wales.

On the left is the entrance to the County Gaol, which may vie in every respect with any other establishment of the sort in the kingdom.  It is built upon two levels.  On the east side of the range of buildings on the upper level is the Deputy-Governor’s house; adjoining are the day and sleeping rooms of the male debtors, with a large and commodious yard, commanding a view of the surrounding country; and in an extensive wing are the convicts’ cells, apartments for the female debtors and prisoners, with the matron’s house and hospital.  In the centre, projecting beyond the level, and of a semicircular form, so as to command a view of the court yards, &c., are the gaoler’s or governor’s apartments.  Underneath the governor’s apartments, and of the same form, is the chapel, which has lately been rebuilt and much improved.  It is situate between the upper and lower level, and so contrived as to receive the debtors and criminals into different compartments, from their respective court yards.  Divine service is performed in the chapel every morning during the week, and twice every Sunday.  The Rev. J. M. Kilner is the present chaplain, who is most indefatigable in the discharge of his duties.  On the lower level, under the jailor’s house, are the felons’ yards, five in number.  They are spacious and airy, and each contains a pump and trough.  A sort of area or passage surrounds these yards, and beyond that is the outside wall, built of immense blocks of stone, and conveying at once the idea of security and solidity.  Nothing can exceed the excellent discipline and general arrangement of the prisoners.  A large proportion of the prisoners are profitably employed, under the superintendence of a task-master.  They are chiefly engaged in calico, rug, and carpet weaving, shoe-making, and basket-making.  The greater part of the articles of clothing and bed furniture used within the walls are manufactured by them; and the store-room presents the appearance of a complete depository of useful articles for the prison, of almost every description.

There is also a commodious schoolroom, which is efficiently superintended.  Everything relating to the internal management of this prison is complete in each department, and reflects the highest credit on the governor, Mr. Dunstan.

p. 39Previous to the new erections, on the east side of the lower court stood the ancient Shire Hall, in which the courts of justice for the county used to be held.  It was a magnificent building, nearly 90 feet in length, and 45 in breadth; the height very lofty, and worthy the state apartment of the first Norman Earl, Hugh Lupus, who required a hall suitable to the greatness of his hospitality.  Adjoining to this hall was the Court of Exchequer, or Court of Chancery, of the county palatine of Chester.  It was the Parliament House of the little kings of the palatinate, and had neat gothic seats for the abbot and eight barons.

The east side of the esplanade is appropriated to Barracks, which contain excellent and spacious accommodations.  Behind the Barracks is the Provost, with an enclosed yard.  It is no longer employed for this purpose, having been, some time since, converted into an armoury for pensioners, military library and reading-room, &c.  This wing, and the opposite one on the west side of the esplanade, were built at the joint expense of the Crown and the County Palatine.

Proceeding through the gate at the east end, we come to

The Sessions House,

a neat and commodious edifice, with a tolerably spacious court, magistrates’ and grand jury rooms, and a robing room for counsel on the ground floor; and upstairs are the Clerk of the Peace’s record rooms and other offices.

Before leaving the Castle yard, the attention of the visitor will naturally be attracted by memorials of the Crimean war, in the form of two Russian guns, mounted on either side of the grand entrance, under a portico, enclosed with iron railings.  On each of these formidable pieces of ordnance is inscribed the following historical memorandum:

THIS GUN
WAS CAPTURED BY THE ALLIED ARMIES OF
ENGLAND, FRANCE, TURKEY, AND SARDINIA,
AT SEVASTOPOL,
ON THE 8TH DAY OF SEPTEMBER, 1855,
AND PRESENTED BY
HER MAJESTY
TO THE CITIZENS OF CHESTER,
IN COMMEMORATION OF THAT ARDUOUS SIEGE.
VICTORIA REGINA.

Having completed our view of the Castle, we return to continue p. 40our walk, proceeding along the walls until we reach the boundary of the Castle, where the tourist will have a fine view of the

Grosvenor Bridge.

This noble work of art, which is unequalled in the history of bridge-building, crosses the Dee at the south-east angle of the Roodeye, and is approached by a new road from the centre of Bridge-street, which passes by the Castle esplanade, proceeds across the City Walls, and then, by an immense embankment, thrown over a deep valley, to the foot of the bridge.  The bridge consists of one main stone arch, with a small dry arch or towing path on each side, by which the land communication is preserved on both sides of the river.  The cost of erection was £36,000.

The great distinguishing feature of this edifice is the unparalleled width of the chord or span of the main arch, which is of greater extent than that of any other known to have been constructed.  Of its dimensions the following is an accurate delineation:—The span of the arch, two hundred feet. [40]  Height of the arch from the springing line, 40 feet.  Dimensions of the main abutments, 48 feet wide by 40, with a dry arch as a towing path at each side, 20 feet wide, flanked with immense wing walls, to support the embankment.  The whole length of the roadway, 340 feet.  Width of the bridge from outside the parapet walls, 35 feet 6 inches, divided thus: carriage road, 24 feet; the two causeways, 9 feet; thickness of the parapet walls, 2 feet 6 inches.  Altitude from the top of the parapet wall to the river at low-water mark, 66 feet 6 inches.  The architectural plan of this bridge was furnished by the late Thomas Harrison, Esq.; contractor and builder, Mr. James Trubshaw, of Staffordshire; surveyor, Mr. Jesse Hartley, of Liverpool.  The first stone was laid on the 1st October, 1827, by the late Marquis of Westminster, and a specimen of each of the current coins of the realm deposited therein; and was formally opened in October, 1832, by her Royal Highness the Princess Victoria (her present Most Gracious Majesty), on occasion of her visit, and that of her Royal mother, the Duchess of Kent, to Eaton Hall.  As a compliment to her noble host, at the request of the commissioners, the bridge was named “Grosvenor Bridge,” by the young Princess.  It was opened to the public in December, 1833.

p. 41It was opposite to this part of the Walls that King Edgar’s palace was situated, from which he was rowed up the river to St. John’s Priory, by eight tributary princes, in 971.

Within seventy yards of the bridge formerly stood an ancient Roman gateway in the walls, called the Shipgate, or Hole in the Wall, at one time the only entrance into Chester from Handbridge.  It was taken down some years ago, and is now in the possession of Thomas Finchett Maddock, Esq.  It forms a perfect specimen of Roman masonry, originally 20 feet in height by 16 in breadth.  Pennant remarks, “that this postern seems originally to have been designed for the common passage over the Dee into the country of the Ordovices, either by means of a boat at high water, or by a ford at low, the river here being remarkably shallow.”  Opposite the Shipgate is a ford in the river leading through to a field on the Handbridge side, called Edgar’s Field, in which stands the ancient sculpture of the Diva Armigera Pallas, already mentioned under the head of “Roman Antiquities,” in a former part of this work.

Pursuing our walk, we next arrive at

The Bridgegate,

a handsome arch gateway, having two posterns, erected in 1782, at the expense of the Corporation.  On the tablet over the western postern is the following inscription:—

THIS GATE WAS BEGUN APRIL, MDCCLXXXII., PATISON
ELLAMES, ESQ., MAYOR, AND FINISHED DECEMBER THE
SAME YEAR, THOMAS PATISON, ESQ., MAYOR.

THOS. COTGREAVE, ESQ., HENRY HESKETH, ESQ., MURENGERS.

JOSEPH TURNER, ARCHITECT.

On another tablet, on the east side,—

THIS GATE, HAVING BEEN LONG INCONVENIENT,
WAS TAKEN DOWN A.D. MDCCLXXXI.

JOSEPH SNOW, ESQ., MAYOR.

THOS. AMERY, HENRY HEGG, TREASURERS.

From the top of this gateway the banks of the Dee, with the bridge, and suburbs of Handbridge, present a lively and striking appearance, which at low water is increased by the rapid falling of the stream over the causeway across the river immediately above the bridge.  In the distance may be seen Beeston Castle, on its p. 42lofty summit; and the successive ranges of Bucklow and Peckforton Hills form a beautiful background to the landscape.

A little southward stands

The Old Bridge,

which is of considerable antiquity.  A wooden bridge was erected on the same spot by the Mercian Princess Ethelfleda, early in the tenth century; but from the ‘Chronicle of Chester Abbey,’ we learn that in 1227 “pons Cestriæ totus cecidit;” and that in 1279 “mare erupit, pontem Cestriæ confregit et asportavit.”  The wooden bridge being thus disposed of, we next find from the ‘Red Book of St. Werburgh,’ that “in 1280 the King (Edward I.) compelled the citizens of Chester to rebuild Dee Bridge at their own charge, contrary to the privileges which had been granted to them.”  In 1500, the south end of the Bridge, having fallen into decay, was rebuilt, and a tower for its defence added at the entrance into Handbridge, which was taken down about sixty years ago.  In 1826 the Bridge was widened to the extent of seven feet, by the addition of a flagged footpath, on the east side, bounded towards the river by a good iron railing, the projection supported by two courses of corbels.

It consists of seven irregular arches, and when viewed from the west, presents an appearance of venerable antiquity; but on the east it no longer holds out that recommendation to the eye of the observer, modern alterations having left nothing on that side to render it worthy of notice.

At the north end of the Bridge stand the

Dee Mills,

used for the grinding of corn.  Although the date of the first erection of mills on this spot cannot now be ascertained, yet there is evidence of their having been there from remote antiquity.  Sir Howell-y-Fwyall obtained a grant of them from Edward III. in reward for his services at the battle of Poictiers.  In the fifth of Edward VI. they were granted by the Crown to Sir Richard Cotton, in exchange for the manors of Bourne and Moreton, in Lincolnshire; and by his son George they were granted in fee farm to Edmund Gamul, at a yearly rent of £100.  Gamul expended a large sum in repairing the causeway originally erected by Hugh Lupus.  In 1646 an order of Parliament was issued, that the mills and causeway should be destroyed, as an obstruction to trade; but this order, issued by the Puritans then in power, probably with no other view than to obtain a composition from the proprietor, was p. 43never complied with.  On the alienation of the Gamul property, the greater part of the mills fell into the hands of Mr. Edward Wrench, in whose successor the property is now vested.  The Dee Mills have been twice destroyed by fire within the last sixty years.  The first conflagration broke out about twelve at night, of Saturday, September 26, 1789; the second, about the same hour of Saturday night, March 6, 1819; on which latter occasion the progress of the flames was so rapid, that the whole of the premises, with the exception of part of the outward wall, were destroyed in less than six hours.  The loss sustained was upwards of £40,000.  A third fire took place in January, 1847, which destroyed the whole of one of the mills.

We shall now proceed to notice

The Old Bridgegate,

which appears to have been of equal antiquity with the bridge itself, for it is shown by documents in the possession of the Earl of Shrewsbury, that Randle, Earl of Chester, confirmed a gift of his Countess to Poyns, her servant, of the custody of this gate.  And another deed, of the thirteenth century, preserved among the same documents, records, “quod ego Ricardus Bagoth de Cestr: dedi et omnino quietam clamavi Philippo clerico civi Cestr: totum jus meum in porta pontis Cestr: cum omnibus pertinentijs suis.”  From Philip the clerk the custody of this gate passed to the family of Raby, one of whom, Philip de Raby, in the fourteenth century, had also the keeping of the Earl’s garden at the Castle, for which service he received the fruit of a tree called “a restynge tre,” and whatever remained on the other trees after the first shaking, under the reddendo of furnishing the Earl’s household with colewort from Michaelmas to Lent, and with leeks during Lent.  From the Rabys the custody of the Bridgegate passed to the Norrises of Speke, in Lancashire, and the Troutbecks.  In 1624 the Corporation purchased the moiety belonging to the Norrises; and in 1660 they also purchased the other moiety from the Earl of Shrewsbury, representative of the Troutbecks, the Earl reserving to himself, during his visits to Chester, the use of a suite of apartments in a house near the gate.

The Old Gate consisted of an arched gateway, flanked with two strong round towers, on one of which was erected a lofty octagonal tower, containing a cistern for supplying the city with water, called Tyrer’s Water Works, concerning which Webb says, “The p. 44Bridgegate hath of late been greatly beautified by a seemly water-work of stone, built steeple-wise, by the ingenious industry and charge of a late worthy member of the city, John Tyrer, gent., and hath served ever since to great use, for the conveying of the river water from the cistern, in the top of that work, to the citizens’ houses in almost all the parts of the city, in pipes of lead and wood, to their no small contentment and commodity.”  The whole fabric was taken down in 1781.

Proceeding eastward, a most pleasing view of the Dee, of considerable extent, is presented, with delightful cottage and villa residences on the Boughton bank, and in a pleasant suburb called “Queen’s Park,” the elegant suspension bridge to which forms a novel feature in the landscape.  On the left of the river is a cool and shady walk, called The Groves, where there are excellent pleasure boats for the accommodation of those who enjoy a sail or a pull up the river.  We have here a very good view of St. John’s Church on the right, a venerable pile, containing some curious and interesting specimens of Norman architecture.

Within about fifty yards of the Recorder’s steps, the wall forms an angle to the northward.  Here we ascend six flights of steps, consisting of three steps each, called the Wishing Steps, erected in 1785, at the top of which stood an ancient Watch Tower, which had formerly an apartment with a stone seat on one side, and windows commanding a view of the river and adjacent country.  This room was removed in 1826.

We next arrive at

The Newgate,

a plain arched gateway, forming a communication betwixt Newgate-street and Pepper-street within the Walls, and St. John’s-street, Dee-lane, &c., without.  On the spot now occupied by this gate, formerly stood a postern, called Wolf’s Gate, or Pepper Gate.  Of this postern, Fuller says, that in the sixteenth century “the Mayor of the city had his daughter, as she was playing at ball with other maidens in Pepper-street, stolen away by a young man through the same gate, whereupon he caused it to be shut up,” which gave rise to the saying, “When the daughter is stolen, shut Pepper Gate.”  The postern was removed and the Newgate erected in 1608.  From a Journal of the Siege of Chester, in King’s ‘Vale Royal,’ it appears that on the 29th September, 1645, “the besiegers made a breach in the walls near to the Newgate, p. 45by the battery of 150 cannon shot, and at midnight made a sharp assault upon the breach.  They likewise attempted to mount the walls with scaling ladders, but some officers and several soldiers were hauled in over the walls; some of the ladders, too, were dragged over, and many of the assailants thrown down and killed, and the rest forced to give over the attack.”

A short way further to the eastward, after passing the scanty remains of an old tower abutting from the Walls, called Thimbleby’s Tower, we arrive at a flight of steps leading to the Wesleyan Methodist Chapel in St. John’s-street, the access to which from this quarter was made under the sanction of the Corporation.  This handsome and commodious place of worship was erected in 1811.  Near to the chapel is a large and commodious School-house, recently erected, capable of containing from 200 to 300 children, which is occupied during the week as a day school, and is in a prosperous condition.

A few paces now brings us to

The Eastgate,

consisting of a wide and beautiful centre arch for the passage of carriages, and two posterns for the safety and convenience of foot passengers.  It was built at the sole expense of the late Marquis of Westminster, whose arms, and those of the city, occupy the centre of the principal arch.  On the 8th August, 1768, the south-west corner stone of the Eastgate was laid by John Page, Esq., Provincial Grand Master, attended by four regular lodges of Freemasons; and the north-west corner-stone by the Mayor, Sheriffs, and Aldermen of Chester.  On the east side, under the Grosvenor armorial bearings, is the following inscription:—

ERECTED AT THE EXPENSE OF
RICHARD LORD GROSVENOR,
MDCCLXIX.

And on the west side, under the city arms,

BEGUN A.D. MDCCLXVIII, JOHN KELSALL,
ESQ., MAYOR. FINISHED A.D. MDCCLXIX,
CHAS. BOSWELL, ESQ., MAYOR.

From the summit of the gate there is a fine view of Eastgate-street, within the walls, and Foregate, or Forest-street on the outside.  On a market day it is truly spirit-stirring to observe the multitude beneath, and listen to the “busy hum of men,” citizens and country folks, engaged in buying and selling,—bringing in and p. 46carrying out,—the various commodities which furnish forth the provision market of a county town.  On the same spot formerly stood

The Old Eastgate,

removed in 1768, as too narrow and inconvenient for one of the principal entrances to the city.  It consisted of a beautifully formed Gothic archway, flanked by two massive octagonal embattled towers, connected by a substantial building, two stories in height, over the gateway, the roof of which was raised to a level with and embattled in the same manner as the flanking towers to which it formed the centre.  From the bearings on four shields which ornamented the front of this gate, it is conjectured to have been erected during the reign of Edward III.

A Roman gateway appears to have occupied the same spot at a still earlier period; for in pulling down the Old Eastgate in 1768, two wide circular arches of Roman architecture were discovered within its workmanship.

With all due admiration for the spirit of useful improvement which dictated the erection of the present Eastgate, we cannot avoid expressing our regret that the old one no longer remains to gratify the eye of the antiquary and the man of taste.  Although the present gate is undoubtedly much better adapted for the entrance of carriages of all kinds, yet the Cestrians of the last century, who remembered the glories of the old structure, must have been but ill reconciled to its substitute.

Having thus completed the circuit of the Walls of Chester, as they at present stand, it only remains to notice that there was formerly an outer gate in Foregate-street, about half a mile from the Eastgate, called

The Bars Gate,

which, being in a very dilapidated state, was removed as a nuisance in 1770.  An outwork, in connection with this gate, was raised previous to the siege of Chester in 1643.  This outwork, consisting of a mud wall, fortified with mounts and bastions, joined the City Wall at the New Tower, from whence it stretched out to the north-east so far as to take in Upper Northgate-street; then running eastward, encompassed all the suburbs on the north of Foregate-street, until it approached Boughton, when it turned southward, and proceeded in that direction across Foregate-street at the Bars Gate, down Dee-lane, at the bottom of which its course was terminated p. 47by the river.  This outwork withstood a violent assault by the Puritans under Sir William Brereton, on the 18th July, 1643, wherein the assailants were forced to retire with great loss; but on the 19th of September, 1645, it was surprised and carried by a night assault of the enemy, under the command of General Louthian, and was afterwards occupied by the Puritans as a circumvallation, while prosecuting the siege of the city.

“In perusing the foregoing sketch of our Walls, with the incidental notices of contiguous objects, it is presumed, that individuals most conversant with the localities of the city, will meet with several particulars, either to gratify their curiosity or add to their information.  And it may also be hoped, that should the account be read by those who are strangers to our ancient fortifications, and the peculiar attractions of Chester, it may excite a commendable inquisitiveness for a personal survey, at the same time that it may assist as a directory to their inquiries.  In whatever point of view these old ramparts are considered, they possess an imposing interest, and confer incalculable benefits.  To the invalid, the sedentary student, or the man of business, occupied during the day in his shop or counting-house; to the habitually indolent, who require excitement to necessary exercise—to all these, the promenade on Chester Walls has most inviting attractions, where they may breathe all the salubrious winds of heaven in a morning or an evening walk.  Here the enthusiastic antiquarian, who would climb mountains, ford rivers, explore the bowels of the earth, and, regardless of toil and the claims of nature, exhaust his strength in search of a piece of rusty cankered brass, or a scrap of Roman earthenware, can scarcely advance a dozen paces but the pavement on which he treads, or some contiguous object, forces upon his observation the relics of times of earliest date.  Nor can the philosophic moralist encompass our venerable walls without having his mind, comparing the splendid and gigantic works of antiquity with their present condition, strongly impressed with the mutations produced by the lapse of ages, and the perishing nature of all mundane greatness.

“I shall conclude this branch of our history by citing the sentiments of a man well known to the republic of letters, regarding our ancient city, not indeed particularly as to her walls, but as to her general attractions.  His information, as a traveller, was varied and extensive, and his discernment and intellect strong and acute.  This gentleman, who was no other than Mr. Boswell, in a letter to p. 48Dr. Johnson, dated October 22, 1779, says, ‘Chester pleases me more than any town I ever saw.  I told a very pleasing young lady, niece to one of the prebendaries (Miss Letitia Barnston), at whose house I saw her, ‘I have come to Chester, Madam, I cannot tell how; and far less can I tell how to get away from it.’  Dr. Johnson in reply says, ‘In the place where you are there is much to be observed, and you will easily procure yourself skilful directors.’  In another letter, dated November 7, in the same year, Boswell remarks, ‘I was quite enchanted at Chester, so that I could with difficulty quit it.’” [48]

p. 49CHAPTER IV.
A WALK THROUGH THE CITY.

It is our purpose now to conduct the tourist through the city, that we may point out, in detail, the various objects of interest which claim his attentive inspection.  But before commencing our perambulations through the principal streets, we will here introduce a few remarks on that unique feature which constitutes the distinguishing attraction of Chester, and has given it universal celebrity.

The Rows.

Very curious are these old arcades, which are as interesting to the antiquarian as they are convenient for a quiet lounge to ladies and others engaged in shopping.  They occupy the greatest part of both sides of Eastgate-street, and the upper parts of both sides of Watergate-street and Bridge-street.  Those in Northgate-street are more irregular, only one side, commonly called Shoemakers’-row, being used as a regular thoroughfare.  Their appearance, both interior and exterior, is extremely singular.  They form a gallery, occupying the front floor of each house, parallel with the streets below, and are approached by flights of steps, placed at convenient distances, in addition to those by which they are entered and quitted at each end.  The passenger walks over the shops on a level with the street, and under the first floor of the dwelling-houses; and thus two lines of shops are erected in one front.  The rows are kept in excellent repair, and form the chief promenade of the citizens.  To strangers they cannot fail to prove an object of curiosity.  The shops in the rows are generally considered the best situations for retail traders; but those on the southern side of Eastgate-street and the eastern side of Bridge-street have a decided preference.  Shops let here at high rents, and are in never-failing request; and there are no parts of the city which have undergone such rapid or extensive improvements.

In the sixteenth century the rows appear not to have exceeded p. 506 feet in height and 10 in width, with clumsy wooden rails towards the street, and large oaken pillars, supporting transverse beams and brackets, on which rested the houses over head, formed of wood and plaster, so far overhanging the street, that in some places the upper floors of opposite houses nearly met.  Nearly the whole of the buildings of this description are now taken down; and in rebuilding care has been taken to raise and widen the rows, and to place iron railings towards the street in place of the wooden posts formerly used.  The shops in the rows present a very different appearance to that of about sixty years ago; then, as Hemingway says, “the fronts were all open to the row in two or three compartments, according to their size; and at night were closed by large hanging shutters fixed on hinges, and fastened in the daytime by hooks to the ceiling of the row.”  At present these rows are “capable of supplying all the real demands of convenience and the artificial calls of luxury, mental and corporeal, presenting a cluster of drapers, clothiers, jewellers, booksellers, &c., as respectable as the kingdom can produce.” [50]  The origin and cause of the rows has furnished matter for much curious investigation; and many conflicting conjectures have been propounded respecting them.  The subject is involved in much obscurity; and, in the absence of any positive data, we are not able to take higher ground than the probabilities of the case.  It has been alleged that they were originally used as places of defence, from whence to annoy and repulse the assaults of the enemy, who might gain entrance into the streets beneath by surprising the gates, during those remote ages when Chester was subject to the sudden incursions of the Welsh.  But against this opinion it may be urged, that in no one of their attacks upon this city did the Welsh ever force their way within the gates or walls; so that these latter, being proved by experience to be a sufficient bulwark against our foes, there existed no necessity for the erection of any further defences.  There is irrefragable evidence that the form of the city is Roman, and that the walls were the work of that people; and the same reasons which justify these conclusions are not less cogent for presuming that the construction of the streets are Roman also.  Pennant appears to have arrived at this conclusion:—he says, “These rows appear to me to have been the same with the ancient vestibules, and to have been a form of building preserved from the time that the city was possessed by the Romans.  They were built before the p. 51doors, midway between the streets and the houses, and were the places where dependants waited for the coming out of their patrons, and under which they might walk away the tedious minutes of expectation.  Plautus, in the 3rd act of his Mostella, describes both their station and use.  The shops beneath the rows were the Cryptæ and Apothecæ, magazines for the various necessaries of the owners of the houses.”

Ormerod says that some of these crypts exhibit specimens of vaulting equal to the cloisters of our Cathedral.

Camden, in describing Chester, says, “The houses are very fair built, and along the chief streets are galleries or walking places they call rows, having shops on both sides, through which a man may walk dry from one end to the other.”  And Shukeley, in his ‘Itinerary,’ in 1724, says, “The rows or piazzas are singular through the whole town, giving shelter to foot people.  I fancied it a remain of the Roman porticoes.”

In the oldest histories, descriptive of the city in some form or other, the elevated rows and the shops beneath are recognized.

Tacitus, “in describing the process by which Roman manners diffused themselves throughout Britain, and gradually completed the subjugation of the country, speaks of the natives of Britain as acquiring a taste for the two leading features in Roman civilization, ‘Porticus and Balnea,’—the portico, in which they were delighted to stroll and sun themselves; and the baths, which were their national luxury.  He mentions these, and we cannot but be struck by the coincidence with things with which we are all familiar—the rows of our ancient city, and the Hypocaust, which is still shown as the Roman bath.  We are hereby led to infer, that the mode of construction which gives the character to our city, originated in Roman habits.” [51]

Principal Streets.

Within the walls, the city is subdivided by four principal streets, intersecting each other nearly at right angles at St. Peter’s Church, which stands in the centre of the city.  These streets retain numerous old timber buildings, which give them an unusual and quaint appearance, and are wider in general than those of cities of equal antiquity.  Immediately in front of the church formerly stood the High Cross, which was pulled down and defaced by the Parliamentarians, when they took possession of the city in 1646.  p. 52The upper portion of this valuable antiquity is still preserved in the grounds of Netherlegh House, though some of the carved figures are a good deal injured.  Mr. Pennant is of opinion that St. Peter’s Church, and a few houses to the north and west, occupy the site of the Roman Prætorium, with its Court of Judicature and Angulale, where prayers, sacrifices, and other religious rites were wont to be performed.

Adjoining the Cross formerly stood that ignominious instrument of punishment, called the Pillory.

Adjoining the south side of St. Peter’s Church stood the old Pentice, where the magistrates performed their judicial duties, where the sheriffs sat to determine civil causes, and where the Town-office was kept, until the year 1803, when it was removed for the purpose of widening the road into Northgate and Watergate streets, at that time extremely narrow and dangerous.  The bench of magistrates was then removed to much more commodious apartments in the Exchange.  At the corner of the east of Bridge-street and the west of Eastgate-street, and near to the Cross, there was formerly a small stone building, forming a basin at the top, called the Conduit, to which water was formerly brought into the city from St. Giles’s well at Boughton, and thence conveyed to different parts of the city.

The Cross used formerly to be the scene of the barbarous sport of bull-baiting, of which the following satirical sketch is given in an old History of Chester:—

“The Cross is famous for being the annual scene of exhibition of that polite play called a bull-bait, where four or five of these horned heroes are attended by several hundred lovers of that rational amusement.  Till within a few years, the dramatis personæ of this elegant scene included even magistracy itself, the mayor and corporation attending in their official habiliments, at the Pentice windows, not only to countenance the diversions of the ring, but to participate in a sight of its enjoyments.  A proclamation was also made, by the crier of the court, with all the gravity and solemnity of an oration before a Romish sacrifice; the elegant composition of which ran thus—‘Oyez!  Oyez!  Oyez!  If any man stands within twenty yards of the bull-ring, let him take—what comes.’  After which followed the usual public ejaculations, for ‘the safety of the king and the mayor of the city;’ when the beauties of the scene commenced, and the dogs immediately fell to.  Here a prayer for his worship was not unseasonable, as even the ermin’d cloak was p. 53no security against the carcases of dead animals, with which spectators, without distinction, were occasionally saluted.

“We shall not attempt a description of the tender offices practised, at such times, on so noble a creature—one, however, we cannot omit mentioning: in 1787, an unfortunate animal, smarting under his wounds and fatigue, was very naturally induced to lie down;—the argument made use of, in this situation, however, as naturally induced him to get up; his humane followers hitting upon the ingenious expedient of setting fire to some straw under his body, when, it is hardly necessary to add, ‘the wretched animal heav’d forth such groans, as stretch’d his leathern coat almost to bursting.’  This circumstance of the fire was, however, no bad satire (emblematically considered) on the transactions of the day—the whole being little better than a—‘burning shame.’

“The late Dr. Cowper is said to have had the merit, when mayor, of putting a stop to the attendance of the corporate body on these days; and Mr. Alderman Brodhurst, in his mayoralty, made a laudable but ineffectual effort to suppress a relic of barbarism ‘more honoured in the breach than the observance.’”

Eastgate Street,

a spacious street, forming a direct line to the Eastgate, about 209 yards in length.  The appearance of the street has been considerably modernized of late years; many of the old houses having been taken down, and spacious shops and dwelling-houses erected on their site.  There is a very interesting old crypt to be seen on the premises of Messrs. Prichard and Dodd, which furnishes an additional illustration of the statement, that many of the buildings in the principal streets are erected on the remains of ancient religious houses.  Dr. Ormerod gives it as his opinion that these conventual buildings occupied nearly, if not wholly, one-fourth of the city.  The handsome premises occupied by Mr. Hugh Roberts, bookseller, and by Mr. Bolland, confectioner, have latterly been rebuilt in an elegantly appropriate style of architecture: and Messrs. Brown are now (1858) erecting a splendid range of shops.  About two-thirds down the street on the right is Newgate-street; and opposite is St. Werburgh’s-street, leading to the Cathedral.  There are two excellent inns in Eastgate-street—the Green Dragon and the Royal Hotel; the latter being a large and lofty edifice, the front resting on round stone pillars, between p. 54which, and the coffee-room there is a capacious piazza.  Passing under the arch of the Eastgate, you enter

Foregate Street,

a spacious airy street, about 572 yards in length, and in most parts 18 in breadth; on the right hand is St. John-street, in which is situated the Post-office, and a little lower down the Mechanics’ Institution and News-room.  The spacious circular building is a place of worship used by the Wesley an Methodists.  The narrow street on the left leads to St. John’s Church and Priory, which will amply repay a careful and attentive study.  Returning to the Cross, we now proceed down

Watergate Street,

which possesses remarkable interest, from the number of very old houses still remaining in it.  This street has perhaps suffered less from the innovation of modern improvement than any other part of Chester.  The rows on both sides extend nearly to the bottom of the street, and retain several marks of great antiquity.  In front of an old house on the south side of the street, there is a post, with the date 1539 carved upon it.  On the same side, nearer the Cross, is an old dwelling-house, with the inscription—

“God’s Providence is mine Inheritance—1652,”

cut upon a beam in front, in legible characters.  At the time when the plague was devastating the city, this was almost the only house which was exempt from its destructive havoc.  Gratefully sensible of this singular blessing, the pious occupier placed this inscription on the front of his house, as a commemorative memorial of Divine Providence.  Lower down, on the same side, is a singularly decorated old house, having the whole front divided into square compartments, filled with carved work of various descriptions, principally heraldry and scripture history.  Adam and Eve;—Cain killing Abel;—Abraham offering up Isaac;—Susannah and the Elders—and a Martyrdom, are the principal subjects.  There are three other compartments, two of them consisting of armorial bearings, including the Earldoms of Chester and Derby, crested with a bishop’s mitre; the third bears an inscription, illegible from the street, and the date 1613.  This house was built by Dr. George Lloyd, of the family of Lloyd of Kinmell, in North Wales, Bishop of Chester from 1604 to 1615.

Lower down, on the same side of the street, below Nicholas-street, p. 55is a curious and spacious old palace, once the mansion of the Derby family, which is well deserving of the visitor’s notice.  It is approached through a narrow passage.  The front of the house presents some interesting specimens of curiously ornamental carved work.  On this spot once stood a Monastery of the order of Black Friars.

The street on the opposite side leads to the new Linen Hall, where the cheese fairs are periodically held.  It was built by the Irish merchants in 1778.  At that time the imports of linen were very considerable, and a large business was done.

At the corner of this street stands her Majesty’s Custom House.  Adjoining is Trinity Church, which contains the mortal remains of Parnell the poet, and Matthew Henry, immortalized in his far-famed commentary.  Trinity-street contains nothing worthy of special notice: it leads, however, to a memorable spot, of surpassing interest to all who love to trace the “records of a good man’s life.”  Higher up is Crook-street, where stands the chapel built for Matthew Henry.  These chapel walls once echoed the voice of that eloquent man, who assiduously asserted the pure principles of the Gospel.  Associated, therefore, as the place is with the memory of a great mind, whose works have taken an honourable position in the religious literature of the country, it cannot but be an attraction to all who love to treasure the incidents which mark the biography of an eminent and a worthy man.  Matthew Henry’s chapel is now occupied by the Unitarians.

Returning to the Cross, we proceed to

Northgate Street,

which forms the northern division of the city, and is 440 yards long.  On the east side, adjoining St. Peter’s Church, are the Commercial-buildings, occupied as a subscription News-room, and the Library of the Archæological Society.  The rows in Northgate-street are chiefly formed of wood; that on the west is the only one in general use, extending from the Cross to the Fish Market.  The regular market for “Fish and vegetables,” says a History of Chester, 1791, “is in the square opposite the Exchange, which, in general, are plentiful and reasonable.  In that useful article, salmon, no market in the kingdom did, some few years ago, excel it; indeed, such was the profusion of this valuable fish, that masters were often restricted, by a clause of indenture, from giving it more than twice a week to their apprentices!  Though the p. 56bounty of Providence, in this particular, is yet unabated, such restriction is no longer necessary—some artificial cause or other very kindly rendering this fish, at the present day, a delicacy even to the masters themselves.”

The Exchange

is situated in the Market-place, on the west side of Northgate-street.  It was commenced in 1695, and completed in 1698, at an expense of £1,000, towards which Roger Whitley, then Mayor, contributed largely.  It is a good brick building, ornamented with stone-work, supported by stone pillars on the ground floor, through which is a thoroughfare from south to north.  In a niche on the south front is a statue of Queen Anne in her coronation robes.  On the right of this statue is a tablet, having the arms of the Earldom of Chester on a circular shield in the centre, and above these the coats of the Principality of Wales and Duchy of Cornwall, having each their respective coronets over them.  The blazon of this tablet is believed to have been furnished by the last Randle Holmes, Deputy Norroy King at Arms, who died in 1707.  On the left of the statue is another tablet, containing the Royal arms of England as borne by Queen Anne.  The centre of the building is occupied by the Common Hall, wherein are held the city sessions and the elections for members of parliament for the borough.  The north end of the Common Hall is fitted up as a court of justice, having a bench, bar, witness and jury boxes.  On each side of the bench are ornaments, composed of lictors’ fasces and spears, used to support the sword and mace.

Adjoining and communicating with the Common Hall on the north is the Council-room, commonly called the Pentice, where the mayor and magistrates sit as a court of Petty Sessions.  Over the mayor’s seat in this room is a splendid full length portrait of George the Third in his coronation robes,—the figure by Gainsborough, the drapery by Reynolds,—presented to the city by the late Marquis of Westminster, in 1808.  On the south side of the Exchange-buildings is the City Assembly-room, where the meetings of the Town Council are held.  The Town Hall, the Pentice Court, and the Assembly-room, are all decorated with fine portraits of benefactors to the city, and of eminent men who have been officially engaged in its highest legal appointments, or in the administration of its municipal affairs.  Among these worthies may be seen the donors of local charities, and other celebrities; as p. 57Recorders Comberbach, Leycester, Levinge, Townsend, and Sir W. Williams; Sir Henry Bunbury, M.P. for Chester in eight successive parliaments during the reigns of Queen Anne and George the First; Sir John Grey Egerton, M.P. for the city from 1807 to 1818; Thomas Cholmondeley, Esq., Mayor in 1761; Robert, Earl Grosvenor, in his parliamentary robes, painted by Jackson; Richard, Earl Grosvenor, and Thomas Grosvenor, Esq., M.P., in their robes of the civic mayoralty, painted by West; W. Cross, Esq., first Mayor after the passing of the Municipal Reform Act; and W. Wardell, Esq., Mayor in 1841.  At the north end of the Exchange is the Market, appropriated for the sale of butter; and a few yards apart is another building of equal breadth, but longer, for butchers’ meat, both of which are neatly fitted up and well adapted for their respective purposes.  We recommend the tourist now to continue his walk up the street, for the purpose of visiting the Training College, which, we doubt not, our former description has made him curious to see.  Supposing this to have been done, we now return on the east side, passing through the Northgate about 100 yards, where we come to a narrow avenue on the left, under an old archway, the remains of one of the gates of the monastery of St. Werburgh.  A little further down, opposite the Market-hall, stands a noble arch called

The Abbey Gate,

which is a Gothic pointed arch, with a postern at the side, both of which are included in a larger obtuse one, apparently of the same order.  The interior of the gateway is vaulted with stone, with ribs, and carved keystones at the intersections; and the rooms over were originally approached by a spiral staircase.  On the south side was the porter’s lodge, and on the other St. Thomas’s-court.  Before this gate were anciently raised the booths for the merchants frequenting the Abbot’s fair; these booths were covered with reeds, which the monks were empowered to gather from Stanlaw Marsh; and here also the performers in the Chester Mysteries commenced the exhibition of their pageants.  This was formerly the grand entrance into the monastery, which appears to have occupied a very extensive range.  On passing through the arched gateway we enter into the Abbey-square.  On the right hand is a wall, enclosing the episcopal palace, which was rebuilt by Bishop Keene, out of his private resources, at an expense of £2,200, soon after his promotion to the see in 1752.  In former days the residence p. 58of the Abbots of St. Werburgh stood on this site.  The spacious edifice at the end of the palace wall is the Registry Office, of which Dickens has given an interesting sketch in his ‘Household Words,’ in one of his able papers, entitled, ‘The Doom of English Wills.’  The entire arrangements and management of the office are described in terms of unqualified commendation, highly complimentary to the talented registrar, who is described as “a gentleman who fulfils the duties of his office in person with assiduity.”  In the centre of the square is a shrubbery, enclosed with an iron palisading, having in the centre an elliptic column, which was once a pillar under the Exchange; but on removing it to build a shop there, the Corporation presented it to the Dean and Chapter, who appropriated it to its present use.  In the north-east angle of the square is the Deanery, built on the site where once stood an old Gothic structure, called St. Thomas’s Chapel.  Returning into Northgate-street, the next narrow avenue on the left gives us a fine view of the west transept of the Cathedral, with its beautiful window, enriched with elegant tracery.  A few paces below we arrive at

The Music Hall, formerly The Theatre Royal.

The citizens of Chester appear to have been early distinguished for a love of theatricals.  From a MS. entitled, “Certayne collections of aunchiante times concerninge the aunchiante and famous Citty of Chester,” by Archdeacon Rogers, we learn that in the beginning of the fourteenth century, Randal Higden, a monk of Chester, “translated the Bible into several partes and plays, so as the common people might learne the same by theyre playinge.”  These spectacles, then called the Whitsun Plays, were first performed in 1328, during the mayoralty of Sir John Arneway, at the expense of the city companies; and being “profitable for them, for all both far and near came to see them,” they were repeated annually on Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday in Whitsun week, for nearly 250 years, until 1574, when they were suppressed by authority.  The theatre for these performances was of the original Thespian cast, a four-wheeled scaffold or waggon, whereof the body served for a tyring room, and the roof for the stage, whereon the members of the different city companies did “each man play his part.”  The first place of performance was at the Abbey Gate, that “the monks and churche might have the first sighte, and then the stage was drawne to the High Crosse before p. 59the Mayor and Aldermen, and soe from streete to streete; and when one pageant was ended another came in the place thereof, till all that were appoynted for the daye were ended.”  Each company had its own peculiar parts allotted to its members to perform in the Whitsun Plays, of which a list is given in the above quoted MS.

In addition to the Whitsun Plays, the citizens were anciently entertained with processional pageants by the different companies, which latter appear to have survived the suppression of the former for many years.  They were suppressed for some time by the party in power during the Commonwealth, but revived with great splendour at the Restoration.

The pageants were abolished by order of the Corporation in 1678.

“No circumstance,” says the old History from which we have already quoted, “can evince the strange mutations to which things are liable, more than this place, which was originally a chapel dedicated to St. Nicholas, and devoted to religion; afterwards a common hall devoted to justice; next a warehouse devoted to trade; and now a playhouse devoted to amusement.”

The present writer has to note another change: the “Playhouse” has become a Music Hall, handsome and commodious.  A few years since a company was formed for the purpose of erecting a spacious Hall, available for musical and literary recreations, public meetings, and social celebrations.  The Hall was built by Mr. J. D. Williams, from designs by Mr. James Harrison; and a remarkably fine organ, by Jackson, of Liverpool, has also been erected.  Seats are fitted up for an audience of 1,400 persons, and the orchestra is capable of accommodating 300 performers.  The cost of the building, with the organ and fittings, was £5,000.  The Hall was opened, on November 26th, 1855, with a grand Miscellaneous Concert, at which Madame Clara Novello was the principal vocalist, and was crowded by a brilliant gathering of the beauty and fashion of the city and neighbourhood.  Since that time it has frequently been used for the performance of oratorios and concerts, for lectures, public meetings, and other purposes, except theatrical entertainments, which are prohibited by the terms of the lease under which the site is held from the ecclesiastical commissioners, in whom the fee simple of the property is vested.

Returning to the Cross, whence we set out, we now direct our attention to

p. 60Bridge Street,

which is an open and spacious street, in length from the Cross to the Bridge about 554 yards.  This street is characterized by many striking features of deep interest to the antiquarian, and indeed to all who love to visit the localities which are associated with any remarkable events of our national and ecclesiastical history.  Although the buildings now present a much more modern aspect than they did some years ago, there are still remaining many conspicuous proofs of the antiquity of the city, and many curious remains which give it peculiar attractions.

A little way down the street, on the left hand, is a house now occupied by Mr. W. Brittain, woollen draper, which is rendered remarkable from a peculiar, and, as it resulted, fortunate incident, which occurred there in 1558.  In that year Dr. Cole, Dean of St. Paul’s, came to Chester on his way to Ireland, entrusted with a commission from Queen Mary, for prosecuting the Protestants in that part of the kingdom.  The commissioner stopped one night in this house on his way, then a noted inn, called the Blue Posts, where he was visited by the Mayor, to whom, in the course of conversation, he communicated his errand, taking out a leather box out of his cloak bag, and saying, in a tone of exultation, “Here is what will lash the heretics of Ireland!”  This announcement was overheard by the landlady of the house, who had a brother in Dublin; and whilst the commissioner was complimenting his worship down stairs, the good woman, prompted by a tender regard for the safety of her brother, opened the box, and taking out the commission, placed in its stead a pack of cards, with the knave of clubs uppermost.  The unsuspecting Doctor packed up the box again, and with its far different contents proceeded on his journey.  On his arrival at the Castle of Dublin, the precious box was presented to the Lord Deputy and Privy Council, who, on opening it, found, in the place of the commission, the pack of cards, prefaced with the significant knave of clubs.  The surprise of the assembly was of course very great, and the Doctor’s perhaps the greatest of all; he was not lack in his protestations that the commission he had received, and was entirely ignorant how it had disappeared.  “Let us have another commission,” said the Deputy; and forthwith the amazed and chagrined commissioner returned to Court for the purpose; but before he could return to Ireland, Queen Mary died.  Elizabeth, her successor, rewarded the woman, p. 61whose name was Elizabeth Edwards, with a pension of £40 a year during her life.

A little lower down, on the same side, are the remains of a Roman Bath and Hypocaust, which we have described under the head of “Roman Antiquities.”  This curious relic, we take for granted, the visitor will “go and see.”

A little further is the neat little church of St. Michael, recently erected on the site of the old church, which had become so much dilapidated, that apprehensions were excited for its safety.

Passing Pepper-street, adjoining St. Michael’s, we next meet with The Albion Hotel, a capacious building, connected with which is an Assembly-room, and behind the premises extensive pleasure-grounds and a bowling-green.

Passing on to the lower end of the street, we come to St. Olave’s Church, an edifice of very mean pretensions, but of very ancient foundation.  In the copy of an old Court Roll, the advowson of St. Olave’s is mentioned among other advowsons, belonging to the Abbey of St. Werburgh.  A clerk was instituted and inducted upon the presentation of the Abbey, in the time of King John.  Divine service is discontinued at St. Olave’s, and the parishioners attend St. Michael’s.  Continuing down the street we arrive at a handsome arch called the Bridgegate, beyond which is the old bridge, which will lead the tourist (should his curiosity incline him) to Edgar’s Cave, already described under the head of antiquities.

Returning on the west side of the street, we come to a steep lane, called St. Mary’s-hill, which leads to the Castle and to St. Mary’s Church, a most interesting edifice, worthy of the tourist’s examination.

Opposite St. Olave’s Church, before mentioned, is an old house, formerly occupied by the Gamul family, which possesses great interest from the fact of its having given protection to Charles I. during the siege of Chester by the Parliamentary forces.  There is some very curious painted panel work and beautiful carving in the interior, which render it well worthy of inspection.  A little higher up is an antiquated building called “The Falcon Inn,” a fine specimen of the old timber houses of Chester.  Adjoining this house formerly stood the Old Lamb Row, which was one of the most remarkable objects of curiosity in the city.  The materials of which the buildings were composed were the same as that of the Falcon, which is probably an older building than the Old p. 62Lamb-row was.  It was constructed of massy beams of oak, heavy roofs, and the interstices of the timber in the fronts filled up with sticks and clay.  The age of the row is pretty clearly determined by the inscription on a stone, discovered after the fall of the building:—

16—H—55
R. H.

The initials of Randle Holme, the builder.  This was the mansion of the family of Holme, the famous Cheshire antiquaries.  In the year 1670, the third Randle made some important and obnoxious alterations, which brought upon him the censure of the Corporation, who ordered that “the nuisance erected by Randle Holme in his new building in Bridge-street, near to the two churches, be taken down, as it annoys his neighbours, and hinders their prospect from their houses.”  He proceeded with his work, however, sans cérémonie; and in the following year Mr. Holme, painter, “was fined £3 6s. 8d. for contempt to the Mayor, in proceeding in his building in Bridge-street.”  It continued the residence of that heraldic family so late as 1707.  It appears that the Holme family subsequently sank into extreme indigence, and at no very distant period, we believe, a descendant was an occasional boots and waiter at a tavern in Liverpool.  Such are the reverses of fortune!  How this property became alienated from the Holmeses has not been ascertained.  It was occupied about the middle of the last century as a public-house, called “The Lamb,” whence it derived the name of the Lamb-row.  In 1821, in the middle of the day, it suddenly gave way and tumbled into the street: happily without any injury to the inhabitants.  An old woman was sitting in the upper room at the moment the overhanging roof bore down the trembling building beneath; the wall of the apartment separated within six inches of a chair on which she was seated, but she fortunately escaped.

After passing Grosvenor-street, we come to White Friars, which derives its name from a monastery of Carmelites or White Friars being once located there.  The next turning is Common Hall-street, so called from its being the place where the Common Hall of the city formerly stood, as its name imports.  Some think that it occupied the site of a building now used as a Dissenting chapel; but Ormerod is of opinion that it stood on the p. 63south side of the street, near to several old almshouses which still remain.

Prior to the era of the Reformation, Chester abounded in religious institutions and edifices.  We have already indicated this fact, in pointing out the localities where some of these religious buildings were situated.  There are many convincing evidences, in the lower part of several houses in the principal streets, that they have been erected on the ruins of these ecclesiastical foundations.  A remarkable instance in support of this supposition has recently been brought to light, upon clearing out an underground cellar behind the shop of Messrs. Powell and Edwards, cutlers, a little farther up in the street, when the remains of

An Ancient Chapel

were discovered.  The public are much indebted to the care and good taste of these gentlemen, that this valuable antiquity has been so admirably preserved; and as they are most courteous in affording strangers the privilege of examining it, we doubt not that the opportunity will be gladly taken.  The chapel is of an oblong form, running from east to west.  Its dimensions are 42 feet in length, 15 feet 3 inches in breadth, and the height, from the surface of the floor to the intersections of the groining of the roof, 14 feet.  It was partially lighted through the upper part of the west end, in which there are three small windows, divided by stone mullions, and protected by iron bars.  On examining the intersection of the groins, marks were discovered on the stonework, that a couple of lamps had been used for lighting.  The entrance to the east end was by a flight of steps cut out of the rock; this passage is now closed, but from what remains there is no doubt this was the case.  On the south side is an Anglo-Norman-Gothic doorway, attained by three or four circular steps, and forming an outlet within its inner and outer wall, by another flight of steps, to the surface above the building.  At the west end are two niches, in which the baptismal fonts are supposed to have been placed; one of these was found during the excavation, and is deposited in one of these recesses; the other was unfortunately destroyed by the workmen.  The date of the erection of this interesting structure is supposed to be early in the thirteenth century.  Taking into consideration the fact that not far from this spot were the monasteries of Grey Friars and White Friars, it has been conjectured by some that in this chapel they assembled for p. 64their religious celebrations.  It seems to be, however, a more feasible hypothesis, that the site was once occupied by some order of religious house; that the chapel formed a part of the erection, and was used by the inmates for their religious ceremonies and worship.  In the upper part of the premises there appear to be some characteristic remains of the ancient structure.  Lacking any further evidence as to the character and extent of this venerable building than the place itself supplies, the question is involved in uncertainty.  The crypt is a most interesting curiosity, worthy of the investigation of the antiquarian, and to his better judgment we leave the subject.

p. 65CHAPTER V.
CHESTER CATHEDRAL.

Previous to the Roman conquests, the Britons were accustomed to celebrate the rites of Druidism; but as it was the custom of the Romans to carry into the lands they conquered not only their civil polity, but also their religion, the gods of the Pantheon became consequently the gods of our ancestors.  Near the existing memorials of Druidical superstition there arose the majestic fanes of a more polished mythology.  At Bath there is said to have been a temple dedicated to Minerva, while on the site now occupied by the splendid cathedral of St. Paul there was a temple to Diana.  It appears, from a passage in King’s ‘Vale Royal,’ there was a tradition generally accepted in his day, that on the present site of Chester Cathedral was a temple dedicated to Apollo, during the period that the city was inhabited by the Legionaries.

“I have heard it,” he says, “from a scholar residing in the city, when I was there, anno 1653, that there was a temple dedicated to Apollo in olden time, in a place adjoining to the Cathedral Church, by the constant tradition of the learned.”

We are not aware that the supposition is capable of being verified by any existing record; but when we take into consideration the policy generally pursued by the Romans in subjugating a country, it seems to be countenanced by strong probability.  With this form of Paganism, however, there came zealous men, of true apostolic stamp, whose earnest inculcation of vital principles accelerated the progress of a better faith.  So conspicuous had that progress become early in the third century, that Tertullian, in his work written against the Jews, A.D. 209, states that “even those places in Britain hitherto inaccessible to the Roman arms, have been subdued by the gospel of Christ.”

The ground on which the temple of Apollo once stood (if the tradition be trustworthy) was occupied, early in the second century, p. 66by a monastery dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul, “which was the mother church and burial place to all Chester, and seven miles about Chester, and so continued for the space of three hundred years and more.”  To this monastery (according to Bradshaw the monk) the relics of St. Werburgh, daughter of Wulphere, King of Mercia, were removed from Hanbury in 875, for fear of an incursion of the Danes, and here re-buried with great pomp; a ceremony usually called “the translation of the body.”  The same author informs us that the army of Griffin, King of Wales, was stricken with blindness for their sacrilegious boldness, in attempting to disturb these sainted remains.  This, and other reputed miracles of St. Werburgh, appear to have induced the celebrated Ethelfleda, Countess of Mercia, to translate the monastery of St. Peter and St. Paul to the centre of the city, and to erect on its site a convent or monastery of secular nuns, dedicated to St. Werburgh and St. Oswald.  Earl Leofric was a great benefactor to this foundation, having repaired its decayed buildings at his own expense: and in 1093, when (says Rodolphus Glaber) “princes strove à vie that cathedral churches and minsters should be erected in a more decent and seemly form, and when Christendom roused, as it were, herself, and, casting away her old habiliments, did put on every where the bright and white robe of the churches.”  Hugh Lupus expelled the canons secular, and laid the foundation of a magnificent building, the remains of which are still existing; it was established by him as an Abbey of Benedictine Monks from Bec in Normandy, to pray (as the foundation charter expresses it) “for the soul of William their King, and those of King William his most noble father, his mother Queen Maud, his brothers and sisters, King Edward the Confessor, themselves the founders, and those of their fathers, mothers, antecessors, heirs, parents, and barons, and of all Christians as well living as deceased.”  The confirmation charter by the second Ranulf (surnamed De Gernon or Gernons), Earl of Chester, in which the grant of Hugh Lupus is recapitulated, is in the possession of the Marquis of Westminster, by whose kindness this most important and interesting instrument has been lent for the use of the Archæological Association, and has been published in the pages of their journal.  It is most beautifully written in columns or pages, for the facility of reading.  The charter occupies nine, and commences with the copy of the original grant of “Hugone Cestreasi comite, anno ab incarnatione Domini millesimo nonugesimo” to the Abbey of St. Werburgh, which was witnessed by p. 67Anselm, Archbishop of Canterbury, followed by the grants of several of the other witnesses, and it concludes by the confirmation of them all by the second Ranulf: (Ego secundus Ranulfus comes “Cestrie concedo et confirmo hos omnibus donationes quos mei antecessores vel barones eor’m dederunt,”) with additional grants from himself.  Anselm, Abbot of Bec, afterward Archbishop of Canterbury, regulated the new foundation, and appointed Richard, his chaplain, the first abbot.

Hugh Lupus, following the example of most of his predecessors, lived a life of the wildest luxury and rapine.  At length, falling sick from the consequence of his excesses, and age and disease coming on, the old hardened soldier was struck with remorse; and—an expiation common enough in those days—the great Hugh Lupus took the cowl, retired in the last state of disease into the monastery, and in three days was no more.

The Abbey was so richly endowed by the founder and his successors, that at the dissolution its revenues amounted to no less a sum than £1,073 17s. 7d. per annum.

On the general dissolution of the monasteries, Chester was erected into an independent bishopric, and St. Werburgh’s was converted into a Cathedral Church, which it has ever since remained.  It was dedicated to Christ and the Blessed Virgin Mary; and a dean and six prebendaries installed in it, Thomas Clarke, the last abbot, being appointed the first dean.

The principal portions of this venerable pile have been erected at different periods from the fourteenth to the sixteenth century, although there are some parts which bear indubitable marks of a much earlier origin; the greater part, perhaps, belongs to the fourteenth or fifteenth century, when the richly decorated style of Gothic architecture was at its zenith in this country.  The Cathedral, from whatever side it is viewed, presents a massive appearance, and exhibits a pleasing variety of styles, in accordance with the taste of different ages.  Mr. Asphitel has said that he found beauties which grew on him more and more at every visit.  The Norman remains are extremely fine—there is work of all kinds of great beauty—and there are the most curious and instructive transitions from style to style that perhaps were ever contained in one building.

Its general style may be termed the Norman-Gothic.  It has been generally supposed that there are also some remaining specimens of the Saxon; but Mr. Asphitel, in an interesting p. 68lecture delivered before the British Archæological Association, stated that he could not, from the most minute research, discover any portion of the Saxon church; he considered it possible there might be some portions in the foundations, but none were visible.

The west front is said to have been the work of Abbot Ripley, who was appointed to the abbacy in 1485.  It is now in an unfinished state, and it seems more than probable that there was an intention to form two western towers.  The foundation of them was laid with much ceremony by Abbot Birchensaw in 1508, the Mayor being then present; but the project was abandoned, most likely for want of funds: had the original design been executed, says Winkle, it would not have been very imposing.  The west entrance is a singular and beautiful composition: the door itself is a Tudor arch, enclosed within a square head; the spandrils are filled with rich and elegant foliations; the hollow moulding on the top is deep and broad, and filled with a row of angels, half-lengths; all this is recessed within another Tudor arch, under another square head, with plain spandrils of ordinary panelling.  On each side of the door are four niches, with their usual accompaniments of crocketted canopies, pinnacles, and pendants; and instead of brackets, the statues formerly stood on pedestals, with good bases and capitals.  Above this entrance is the great western window of the nave, deeply and richly recessed; it is of eight lights, with elaborate tracery of the kind most common in the latest age of the pointed style.  The arch of the window is much depressed, and has above it a flowing crocketted canopy; the gable has no parapet, but is finished off with a simple coping; the flanking-turrets are octagonal, and have belts of panelled tracery and embattled parapets.  Leaving the west front, and turning to the south, a rich and deep porch presents itself behind the Consistory Court; the porch is flanked by buttresses, which once had pinnacles.  The entrance is under a Tudor arch within a square head, the spandrils richly panelled; over the square head is a broad belt of quatrefoil panelling; above that a hollow moulding, adorned with the Tudor flower; above this are two flat-headed windows of two lights each, with a deep niche between them, resting on a projecting bracket; the statue is of course gone, but the projecting and richly decorated canopy remains, on both sides of which the wall above is adorned with two rows of panelling; the open embattled parapet, which once crowned the whole, has disappeared.  The south side of the nave and its aisle is plain, but not without dignity; the windows p. 69are all pointed, and of perpendicular character; those of the aisle have straight canopies, with projecting buttresses between, which still have niches, and once had both pinnacles and statues; the aisle has no parapet.  The windows of the clerestory are unusually large and lofty, and their canopies are flowing in form, but perfectly plain and without finials; they have no buttresses between them, and the parapet is very shallow and quite plain.

The next feature of the Cathedral is a very singular one, and, indeed, unique—viz., the south wing of the transept.  It is no uncommon case to find the two portions of the transept unlike each other in some respects; but in no other instance are they so perfectly dissimilar as at Chester.  Here the south wing is nearly as long as the nave, and of equal length with the choir, and considerably broader than either, having, like them, aisles on both sides; while the north, which probably stands on the original foundations, has no aisles, is very short, and only just the breadth of one side of the central tower.  The east and west faces of this south portion of the transept are nearly similar.  The aisles have no parapet; the windows are pointed, of four lights each, with late decorated tracery and small intervening buttresses.  The clerestory has a parapet similar to that of the nave; the windows are pointed, large, and lofty, with perpendicular tracery and two transoms.  The south front of this transept, flat at top, is flanked with square embattled turrets and buttresses, and has a large window of the perpendicular age, filling up nearly all the space between them.  The south face of the aisles, on each side, have pointed windows and sloping tops, without parapet, but flanked by double buttresses at the external angles, without pinnacles.

The south face of the choir, with its aisle, is in nearly all respects similar to the south portion of the transept; but the aisle is lengthened out beyond the choir, and becomes the side aisle of the Lady Chapel, and has an octangular turret near the east end, with embattled parapet, and beyond it a plain, heavy, clumsy buttress; the sloping parapet of the east face of this aisle meets at the top the flat plain parapet of the most eastern compartment of the Lady Chapel, which projects beyond the aisle to that extent.  The windows of the Lady Chapel are all pointed, and of good perpendicular character; the projecting portion has double buttresses at the external angles, and the eastern face has a low gable point.  This chapel is very little higher than the side aisles of the choir, the east face of which is seen over it, with a large lofty pointed p. 70window, with perpendicular tracery and several transoms, flanked with octagonal turrets engaged, and terminated with something like domes of Elizabethan architecture.  The parapet of this east face of the choir is flat.  The north side of the Lady Chapel is similar to the south; the choir and its aisles exhibit features of an early English character on this side, but the Chapter-room, which is a small building, of an oblong form, and also of early English architecture, conceals a considerable portion.  Over its vestibule and the arched passage leading into the east walk of the cloister, is seen the large window in the north front of the transept; the arch is much depressed, the tracery very common and plain, and it has two transoms; the walls of this wing of the transept are very plain, flat at top, and no parapet.  The whole north side of the nave can be seen only from the cloister-yard.  The south walk of the cloister is gone, and in the wall of the aisle, below the windows, are still seen several enriched semicircular arches resting on short cylindrical columns, evidently belonging to the original church of Hugh Lupus.  The windows of the aisle are Tudor arched, with the ordinary tracery of this period; but, owing to the cloister once existing beneath, are necessarily curtailed of half their due length: there is a thin, flat buttress between each; the aisle has no parapet.  The clerestory is lofty, and the windows pointed, and not so much depressed as those in the aisle beneath: they are not so lofty as those in the south side, nor have they any canopies.  There is a thin buttress between each, without pinnacles, and the parapet is quite plain, but not so shallow as that on the south side.

The central tower is perhaps the best external feature of this Cathedral, it is indeed only of one story above the roof ridge, but it is loftier than such towers usually are; in each face of it are two pointed windows, divided down the middle with a single mullion, with a quatrefoil at the top, and all of them having flowing crocketted canopies with finials.  At each of the four angles of the tower is an octagonal turret engaged, all of which, like the tower itself, are terminated with an embattled parapet.

On entering the interior, through the west doorway into the nave, “some disappointment and regret,” says the same authority, “cannot but be felt: here is no vaulted roof, but a flat ceiling of wood, resting on brackets of the same material, slightly arched, which gives the nave the appearance of having less elevation than it really possesses; for the naves of many much more magnificent cathedrals are not so lofty as this by several feet, but by being p. 71vaulted, their apparent height is increased.”  The stone vaulting appears to have been actually commenced, and was probably interrupted by the dissolution: it is to be regretted that the work was not completed, as it would have given to the nave a much more imposing effect.  The north wall of the nave, to the height of the windows, is Norman work, and contains, on the side of the cloisters, six tombs, where, as it appears from an old MS. written on the back of an old charter, now in the British Museum, the early Norman Abbots are interred.  Under a wide arch sunk in the south wall, which, from the ornaments attached to the pillar near it, appears part of the original building, is a coffin-shaped stone, with a cross fleury on the lid, over the remains of some abbot.  Nearly opposite to this is an altar tomb, the sides of which are ornamented with Gothic niches, with trefoil heads, and with quatrefoils set alternately, the quatrefoils being also alternately filled with roses and leopards’ heads; the lid slides, and discloses the lead coffin, a part of which has been cut away; on the lid is a plain coffin-shaped stone.  It is highly probable that this tomb contains the remains of one of the later abbots.

The pillars of the nave are clustered, and have rich bases and foliated capitals, and the arches are pointed.  In this part of the Cathedral and the north transept are several monuments worthy the attention of visitors.  A pyramidical monument by Nollekens, representing a female figure resting on a rock, against which is placed a broken anchor; erected by Captain John Matthews, R.N., to the memory of his wife.  One, in white marble, by Banks, representing the Genius of History weeping over an urn, having three vols., inscribed ‘Longinus,’ ‘Thucydides,’ ‘Zenophon,’ placed by it; erected to the memory of Dean Swift, the learned translator of those works.  One to the memory of Mrs. Barbara Dod, erected by the minor canons.  One to Captain John William Buchanan, of the 16th Light Dragoons, slain at the battle of Waterloo.  One of Cavalier Sir William Mainwaring, killed at Chester during the great civil war, 1644.  Against the north wall a handsome monument, enclosing a bust of Sir J. G. Egerton, Bart., erected by subscriptions of the citizens of Chester, in memory of their honourable and independent representative.  One in memory of Major Thomas Hilton, who died at Montmeir, in the Burmese empire, 2nd February, 1829.  One to Augusta, the wife of the Rev. James Slade, Canon of the Cathedral, and daughter of Bishop Law.  One of Captain John Moor Napier, who died of Asiatic cholera, in p. 72Scinde, July 7th, 1846, aged 28 years: this monument was executed by Westmacott; the inscription was written by his uncle, the gallant Sir Charles Napier, and is as follows:—

“The tomb is no record of high lineage;
His may be traced by his name.
His race was one of soldiers:
Among soldiers he lived, among them he died,
A soldier, falling where numbers fell with him,
In a barbarous land.
Yet there died none more generous,
More daring, more gifted, more religious.
On his early grave
Fell the tears of stern and hardy men,
As his had fallen on the grave of others.”

“To the memory of their comrade, the officers of the General Staff in Scinde erect this cenotaph.”—[The above was executed by Westmacott.]

In the north transept is a piece of very fine tapestry, executed after one of the cartoons of Raphael, representing the history of Elymas the sorcerer.  Wright, in his travels through France and Italy, expresses his opinion that this is much superior to any of the tapestry which he saw in the Vatican.  There is also a well-executed stone monument to Roger Barnston, Esq.; and a tablet in memory of good Chancellor Peploe.  A beautifully executed marble monument has lately been placed on the wall of the north transept to the memory of Colonel T. Graham Egerton, of the 77th Regiment, who fell at the siege of Sebastopol, in April, 1855.

The choir well merits the attention of every visitor of taste.  From the organ-loft to the Bishop’s throne, the sides are ornamented with rich spiral tabernacle work, underneath which are massive and highly ornamented stalls.  The choir is separated from the nave and broad aisle by a Gothic stone screen; there are five pointed arches on each side; above them is an arcade of pointed arches, resting on slender shafts, and above it are the clerestory windows.  The pavement of the choir is of black and white marble.  At the west end of it are four stalls on each side of the entrance, and there are twenty others on each side of the choir; over these are rich canopies, with pinnacles and pendants in great profusion.  Above the stalls on the right hand, opposite the pulpit, is the Bishop’s throne, which formerly stood at the east end in St. Mary’s Chapel, and is said to have been the shrine of p. 73St. Werburgh, or, as suggested by Pennant, the pedestal on which originally stood the real shrine which contained the sacred relics.  At the Reformation it was removed to its present position, and converted into a throne for the Bishop.  It is a rich specimen of Gothic architecture, decorated with carved work, and embellished with a range of thirty curious small statues, variously habited, holding scrolls in their hands, and originally inscribed with their names, but now defaced.  Dr. Cowper published, in 1799, an elaborate history of these figures, and was of opinion that they represented kings and saints of the royal Mercian line, ancestors or relations of St. Werburgh.  Very great improvements have recently been effected within the choir.  The restoration of the Bishop’s throne was effected by the munificence of the Rev. Canon Slade, as an obituary testimonial to his late father-in-law, Bishop Law, in memory of whom the following incription, engraven upon a brass plate, is affixed to the throne:—

In gloriam Dei hanc cathedram reficiendam curabit A.D. MDCCCXLVI.  Jacobus Slade, A.M. hujus ecclesiae Canonicus.  Recnon in piam memoriam Georgii Henrici Law, S.T.D. per xii. annos Episcopi Testriensis, dein Bathoniensis.

At the back of the throne is a magnificent stone screen, the gift of the Archbishop of Canterbury.  The altar screen was presented by the Rev. Peploe Hamilton, of Hoole, near Chester; the chair within the communion table by the Rev. Canon Blomfield; the new Bible desk, of carved oak in the form of an eagle, by the Rev. Chancellor Raikes; the new stone pulpit, from a beautiful design by Mr. Hussey, was the liberal gift of Sir Edward S. Walker, of Chester.  Towards the restoration of the Cathedral, Her Majesty the Queen also contributed a donation of £105, in the name of the Prince of Wales as Earl of Chester.

Under the east window is an arch opening to the Lady Chapel, which consists of a middle and two side aisles, the stone vaulting of which is adorned with richly carved key-stones.  The side aisles are divided from the middle portion of two arches, sprung from a massive pier on each side, apparently part of the original building, cut down and crusted over with clusters of light pillars, terminated in elegant pointed arches, with quatrefoils inserted in the mouldings.  On the north side of the chancel, which extends beyond the side aisles, are two elegant pointed arches: one contains two piscinas; the other was apparently a seat for the officiating priest; another pointed arch appears also on the opposite side.

p. 74The cloisters are on the north side of the Church, and form a quadrangle of 110 feet square.  Originally there were four walks, but the south walk is destroyed.  The general style of the cloisters is that of the fifteenth century, with carved cornice key-stones at the intersections of the vaulting; the arches of the windows are depressed.  A lavatory projects from the west walk of the cloisters, and did extend along the south walk; over the east walk was a dormitory, which was some time ago destroyed, much to the injury of the appearance of these venerable conventual ruins.  It is obvious that the present cloisters are only a restoration of an earlier one.  In the east walk of the cloisters is the entrance into the Chapter House.  The stone vaulting rests in clusters of slender shafts, with foliated capitals; notwithstanding the soft nature of the stone, the carving is all in a good state of preservation.  The Chapter House was built in the beginning of the twelfth century, by Randle, Earl of Chester, who removed hither, from the churchyard, the body of his uncle, Hugh Lupus, whose remains were found enclosed in a stone coffin in 1723, by persons employed in digging in the Chapter House.  The skull and bones were entire, and lay in their proper position, enveloped in an ox-hide.  On the breast was a piece of cloth, the texture of which could not be ascertained.  Mr. Asphitel considers the Chapter House, with its singularly tasteful vestibule, to be the finest in the kingdom.

We now direct the visitor’s attention to a portion of the Norman edifice, which has of late excited very great interest, the Promptuarium, lately excavated: “the chamber is a sort of gallery or cloister on the ground floor, about ninety feet long by forty feet wide, traversed in the centre by a row of pillars (with one exception cylindrical), which divide it into six double bays, from which pillars, and four corresponding ones at each side, spring the intersecting arches by which the building is vaulted.  The side pillars are as entirely Norman in their character as the centre ones, being simply the square pier, on each face of which is the pilaster attached; the groining of the roof is without the finish of ribs at the joints, a finish characteristic of a later period.  The chamber, which has at present only a borrowed light from the cloisters on the east, was originally lighted from the west side by a window in each bay, except the second bay from the south end, in which was a principal entrance.  This doorway and the windows are now all choked up by the adjoining garden.  On the same side, and at the north end, is a very large chimney and fire-place.  A glance at the groining p. 75and arches at the north end informing us that the chamber did formerly end here, I was induced to think, by this situation of the fire-place, that its length was originally very much greater.  I have since found the termination of the chamber in the cellars of the present Registry, where the groining is supported by corbels, which show that the vaults extended there, but no further.  One double bay, therefore, added to the present remains, gives us the entire length of the building—about 105 feet.  In this last bay, on the east side, is a principal doorway (four inches wider than the one on the west side), leading towards the Refectory.  On the east side also, and near the north end, is a postern from the cloisters and a spiral staircase, partly constructed in the thickness of the wall, leading to the chamber above, of which there are now no remains.  Two small archways at opposite sides of the chamber, precisely similar in form and size, and rising from beneath the level of the floor, seemed to indicate a subterranean passage connecting them.  An excavation round each has, however, discovered no channel between them.  In considering the character and situation of this vaulted chamber, it should be borne in mind, that though now apparently subterranean, it is only so with reference to the west side, the level of the floor being four feet above the level of the nave of the Cathedral.  The ground, which now rises above it on the west side, is all made ground of late date, belonging to the Palace, the original level of which is identical with this chamber, as shown by the area round the present Palace kitchens, and by those apartments belonging to the Abbot’s residence, which yet remain.” [75]

Mr. Asphitel, in his able lecture on Chester Cathedral, bestowed the name of Promptuarium on this Norman cloister: he says—“These are vaulted apartments of early Norman work, and are described in the charter of Henry Eighth, by which he divides the properties between the Bishop and Dean, promptuaria et pannaria, the former derived from a word denoting a butler or steward, probably a buttery; and the latter, from pannus, a cloth, probably the place for clothing.”

Mr. Ayrton, in an able paper on the Norman remains of the Cathedral, read before the Chester Archæological Association, entered into an elaborate inquiry on the subject, stating his reasons for concluding that this is not a Promptuarium, but, in his opinion, a spacious Hall, where the splendid hospitality of the Abbots was displayed to strangers, friends, and dependents.

p. 76There is a vaulted passage at the south end of the Promptuarium, leading from the Abbot’s apartments to the Cathedral: the arches are circular, the groining is ribbed with elliptical mouldings; these mouldings stamp a semi-Norman character on the work, being almost a transition to the early English style.

“Two beautiful Norman doorways gave ingress and egress from the passage, and still remain, though the one which opened to the present west cloister is closed, and sadly disfigured by the alterations of the sixteenth century.  The other doorway, to the west, is yet perfect, excepting the shafts of the pillars, which are gone.  At the south end of the east cloister, and forming the present entrance from that cloister to the Cathedral, is a Norman doorway of about the same date as the arcade adjoining it.  The architrave is very ornate, bearing the billet ornaments, accompanied by a bead which runs between the mouldings; the capitals of the pilasters are foliated, and identical with those already noticed in the Norman doorway of the vaulted passage.”

The dimensions of the Cathedral are as follows:—Length from east to west, 350 feet; nave, 160; choir, 125; Lady Chapel, 65; transept from north to south, 180; breadth of nave, choir, and aisles, 74½ feet; south wing of transept, 80 feet square; height of nave and choir, 78 feet; tower, 127; Lady Chapel, 33; north wing of transept, 39 feet broad.

The following is a list of the Bishops, from the foundation of the see, in 1541, to the present date:—

p. 77List of Deans of Chester Cathedral, from its formation to the present time:—

Bishop—J. Graham, D.D.

Dean—F. Anson, D.D.

Archdeacons.

Ven. Isaac Wood, Middlewich
Ven. J. Jones, Liverpool.

Canons.

Minor Canons.

Honorary Canons.

Organist—Mr. Gunton.

The hours of service are—Week-day, morning, 7 and 10; afternoon, 4.  Sunday, morning, 11; afternoon, 4 o’clock.  During the winter months the service begins at 3 in the afternoon.

Through the indefatigable energy of Dr. Anson, the present Dean, many most important improvements have been introduced into the interior of this noble edifice, which have added very much p. 78to its decoration and general effect.  In 1843, the munificent sum of £4,000 was contributed for the purpose of giving effect to the praiseworthy object of restoring some portion of the ancient beauties of the Cathedral.  A new organ has been erected, of great power and richness of tone, the top of which is carved with tabernacle work, in unison with that of the choir.  The old pews, which were sadly out of keeping with the rich Gothic woodwork of the stalls, have been removed, and the choir has been new seated in the Gothic style.

The whole of the choir has been vaulted, which has greatly contributed to its improved appearance.  A great number of beautiful stained-glass windows, principally the gifts of private families as obituary memorials, have been introduced since the commencement of the improvements in 1843.  The large window of stained glass, at the west end, was presented by Mrs. Hamilton, of Hoole, by whose liberality a splendid restoration of the Lady Chapel has been effected.

The interior of the Cathedral excites a general feeling of admiration, which the exterior fails to realize.

The Church of St. Oswald’s,

as already mentioned, forms the south transept of the choir of Chester Cathedral.  After the introduction of regular monks into the monastery of St. Werburgh, anciently dedicated to the Holy Trinity and St. Oswald, the name of this patron saint was retained by that part of the conventual church which was set apart for the uses of the inhabitants of the parish, within which the monastery was placed.  This part probably occupied the site of that transept of the Cathedral which forms the present parish church.  The name of St. Oswald does not, however, appear to have been originally used for the parish.  In the licence of appropriation by William Cornhall, Bishop of Coventry, it is called the parish church of St. Werburgh.

It appears to have been subsequently called the Church of St. Oswald and the Church of St. Werburgh indiscriminately.  It was founded in the ninth century by Ethelfleda, Countess of Mercia.  So early as 1093, when Earl Leofric introduced regular monks into the Cathedral, that part of it now occupied by St. Oswald’s was set apart for the use of the parishioners, as we have just stated.  The abbot and convent afterwards wishing to re-attach it to the Cathedral, built for the parishioners a small chapel, dedicated p. 79to St. Nicholas, in the spot where the Music Hall now stands; but they do not appear to have been contented with their new place of worship; for in 1488 we find, from Gastrel’s ‘Notitia,’ that a “composition was made between the Abbot and the parishioners of St. Oswald’s for their new church.”  They accordingly re-entered into the south transept, which had been rebuilt by Abbot Ripley, and have ever since used it as their parish church.

St. Oswald’s was formerly in a state of great dilapidation; and was only separated from the aisle of the Cathedral by a slight wooden screen.  In 1827 it was thoroughly repaired; the whole was new flagged and pewed, a new pulpit and reading desk added; the old gallery, which was at the west side, taken down, and a new one erected at the south end.  The interior was cut off from the aisle by a partition, erected by Dr. Coplestone when Dean, who expended more than £1,000 in various improvements.

St. Oswald’s is a vicarage, in the gift of the Dean and Chapter of Chester Cathedral.  The present vicar is the Rev. William Harrison, M.A.

Church of St. John the Baptist.

The church is situated without the city walls, a short distance from the Newgate; it stands upon an elevation overhanging the north bank of the Dee, and the churchyard commands a beautiful and extensive prospect.

This church, with its adjoining ruins, is the most interesting of the ecclesiastical buildings of Chester.

The foundation of the church is ascribed by Webb to Ethelred, Ring of Mercia, and stated, on the authority of Giraldus, to have taken place in the year 689.  The MS. chronicle of St. Werburgh makes a similar statement on the same authority; it is also adopted by the author of ‘Polycronicon,’ and thus quaintly recorded—

“The year of grace six hundred fourscore nine,
So saith my author, a Briton, Giraldus,
King Etheldred, minding most the bliss of heaven,
Edified a college church, notable and famous,
In the suburbs of Chester, pleasant and beauteous,
In the honour of God, and the Baptist St. John,
With the help of Bishop Wulfrice, and good exhortation.”

This inscription is now affixed to a pillar on the north side of the church.  With respect to its foundation by Ethelred, we find the following curious passage, quoted from an early writer by King p. 80and others:—“King Ethelred minding to build a church, was told that where he should see a white hind there he should build a church; which white hind he saw in the place where St. John’s Church now standeth, and in remembrance whereof, his picture was placed in the wall of the said church, which yet standeth on the side of the steeple, towards the west, having a white hind in his hand.”

According to William of Malmsbury, St. John’s was repaired and richly endowed by Leofric, Earl of Mercia, in 1057, and it is shortly afterwards thus noticed in Doomsday Book:—“Ecclesia Sancti Johanius, in civitate habét viii. domos, quietas ab omné consuetudine: una ex his est matricularii ecclesiæ; aliæ sunt canonicorum.”  The seat of the See, which for some centuries after the conquest fluctuated between Chester, Coventry, and Lichfield, was, in 1075, fixed for a time in the Church of St. John, by Peter, then Bishop, which may be taken as a sufficient proof of the wealth and grandeur of the foundation, even at this early period.  The succeeding Bishop, Robert de Limesey, having removed the seat of the See to Coventry, St. John’s returned to its former collegiate establishment, but was long afterwards considered and denominated one of the three Cathedrals of the diocese, and retained in its immediate neighbourhood a palace of the Bishop, and the mansion of the Archdeacon of Chester—the remains of its former importance.  At the dissolution in 1547, the college consisted of one dean, seven prebends, four vicars, a clerk, and a sexton.  “In this church,” says Dr. Cowper, “was an ancient rood, or image of wood, of such veneration, that in a deed dated March 27, 1311, confirmed by Walter Langton, the church was called the Church of the Holy Cross and St. John.”  “There can be little doubt, on the whole,” says Ormerod, “that some monastic foundation, dedicated to the Holy Cross, had, previously to this, merged in the college of St. John.”  In 1468 the old steeple, which stood between the nave and the chancel, fell in, and destroyed great part of the choir.  In 1470 the steeple was rebuilt, and the whole church covered with lead at the expense of the parishioners, to whom certain immunities were granted by the Dean on that account.  In 1548, a commission was granted to certain gentlemen of Cheshire to survey the colleges, &c., within the county; in virtue whereof a return (now in the Augmentation Office) was made, wherein the annual rent of the college of St. John, arising from lands, tithes, &c., is reckoned at £146 5s.  The church plate p. 81is estimated in the same return at 465 ounces; the weight of the five bells, 4,000 lbs.; lead in and upon the church, 78 tons; and goods and ornaments for the use of the clergy to the value of £40 19s. 9d.  In 1572, the greater part of the central steeple again fell in; and in 1574, part of the steeple at the west end of the church also gave way, whereby great part of the church was destroyed.  After being suffered to remain in a ruinous state for some years, the parishioners obtained a grant of the church from Queen Elizabeth in 1581, whereupon they repaired and reduced it to its present size and form, by taking down the remains of the central steeple, and cutting off the south and north transepts and all the chapels above the choir.  In 1585, the Queen granted the impropriate rectory and advowson to Sir Christopher Halton, by whom it was conveyed to Alexander King, who, in 1587, conveyed it to Alexander Cotes, whose daughter brought it by marriage to the family of the Sparkes, in 1597; in which family it continued until the year 1810, when it was sold by their representative, John Adams, Esq., to the late Marquis of Westminster, who, in 1813, rebuilt the north and south transepts, and repaired the chancel, in which he introduced a Gothic window over the altar.

“St. Johns, when entire,” says Pennant, “was a magnificent pile.  The tower once stood in the centre, but falling down in 1574, was never rebuilt.”  “The church,” says Ormerod, “was in the finest style of early Norman architecture; it consisted originally of a nave and choir, with side aisles, two transepts, and a central tower, &c.”

On each side of the chancel were added, at a later period, chapels in a rich style of pointed Gothic, in which some exquisite specimens of shrine work are yet remaining.

The nave and choir, fitted up and repaired in 1581, as before mentioned, now form the parish church, in which public worship is celebrated.  Eight arches, resting on pillars 5 feet 6 inches in circumference, with capitals variously ornamented, separate the nave from the side aisles; and above these are two rows of galleries, with pointed arches, springing from light shafts.  Four massive composite pillars, which formerly supported the central tower, still remain in the nave.  In the interior are some interesting relics of the architecture of our Norman ancestors.

The belfry is detached from the church, at the north-west corner of which it is situate.  It is a square tower, erected in the seventeenth century, 150 feet in height.  It is extremely lofty, and its p. 82sides are decorated with pointed windows in a good style, figures placed in rich shrines, strings of quatrefoils and rows of ornamental arches; in one of the niches on the west side is placed a statue which has excited much controversy.  It is much defaced by time and exposure to the weather.

At the east end of the church, as now rebuilt, stand the ruins of the chapels above the choir, consisting of the outer walls, with the remains of several windows of Gothic architecture; and the eastern wall, containing a beautiful arched window, of the same style, but larger and richer in ornament than the others.

Near the foot of the tower, on the north side of the church, is an ancient porch, forming the principal entrance, in the sides of which are two lancet arches, the entrance being under an acutely pointed arch, the mouldings of which rest on a number of short shafts, which converge as they retire inwards.

“Within this church,” says Ormerod, “was a chantry, dedicated to St. Mary.”  Within the precincts of St. John’s were also Thorneton’s chantry, the Chapel of St. Anne, which Piggott says, “in some deeds, is called the ‘Monastery of St. Anne;’ was endowed with land and houses, some of which now constitute the revenues of Northwich school:” there was also the Chapel of St. James’s, which Lysons says was the old parish church; in 1662 it is described as being then used as a stable.  It has long since been entirely destroyed.  On the south wall of the churchyard was an ancient building, called the “Anchorite’s Cell,” which is said to be the spot where Earl Harold retired after the battle of Hastings, in 1066; a monkish chronicle being extant, which denies the fact of his death in that fight, and states that he lived for some time after at Chester, in the disguise of a monk.  In 1770 two skeletons were discovered here in coffin-shaped cavities, scooped out of the rock.  The fourteen panel tables which are hung in various parts of the church, bearing the arms of the deceased to whose memory they are placed, are said to be painted by one of the Randle Holmes, the distinguished herald artists.  This noble church is horridly disfigured by huge galleries and unsightly pews, for the removal of which an effort is now making, as a prelude to a general restoration of the sacred edifice.  The present vicar is the Rev. W. B. Marsden, M.A.

St. Peter’s Church.

This church stands exactly in the centre of the city, where the four principal streets meet, and close to the ancient site of the p. 83high cross.  It consists of a nave and side aisles, divided from each other by three pointed arches.  “The span of the arches, and the height of the building,” says Ormerod, “are very disproportionate to the present size of the interior, and give it the appearance of being a fragment of a much larger building.”  In a square tower on the south-west side are eight bells, cast in 1709, whereof six are a peal; on the treble is engraved, “When you ring, I’ll sing.”

Pennant is of opinion, as we have before stated, that on this site formerly stood the Roman Prætorium.  Tradition says that this church was built by Ethelfleda, Countess of Mercia, and that it was originally dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul, at the time when the name of the “mother church” was changed to the Holy Trinity and St. Oswald.  Bradshaw, the Monk, alluding thereto, says—

“And the old church of St. Peter and Paul,
   By a general consent of the spirituality,
With the help of the Duke most principal,
   Was translated into the midst of the said city.”

In Domesday it is noticed under its present name, “Templum Sancti Petri.”  In 1081 it was given by Robert de Rodeland to the Monks of St. Ebrulf, in Normandy, by whom it was shortly afterwards resigned to the Abbot of St. Werburgh.  In 1479 the steeple was rebuilt, on which occasion the parson, and other inhabitants, ate a goose at the top of it, and flung the bones into the four principal streets beneath.  In 1580 eight yards of the spire of the steeple were new built.  A.D. 1637–40, the east end of the church, and the south side from the window stools, was re-edificed, the roof almost new leaded, most of the pews new made, all the rest repaired, and all the aisles nagged.  At the dissolution, the patronage of St. Peter was vested in the Dean and Chapter of Chester; it afterwards reverted to the Crown, but is now solely in the gift of the Bishop.  The spire of this church, having been injured by lightning, was taken down in 1780, and in 1787 the south side of the church was recased with stone.  The steeple was rebuilt, and a new clock was placed in it, in 1813; other improvements in the interior have been subsequently made with good taste and effect.  The Rev. John Watson is the rector.

The Church of the Holy Trinity

is situated on the north side of Watergate-street, adjoining the Custom House.

p. 84All traces of the foundation and endowment of this church are buried in remote antiquity.  The earliest evidence of its existence, now to be found, is in a charter relative to the church of Rostherne, in the twelfth century, amongst the witnesses to which is “Walterus Ecclesiæ Sanctæ Trinitatis Presbyterus.”  The advowson was anciently vested in the Barons of Montalt, now called Hawarden, with which barony it passed to the Crown, by whom it was given to the Earls of Salisbury, from whom it passed to the Stanleys of Lathom, whose representative, the Earl of Derby, is the present patron.  In 1401, Henry, Prince of Wales and Earl of Chester (afterwards Henry the Fifth), confirmed to the citizens of Chester a charter, whereby they were relieved from payment of tithes for the Roodeye to the parson of Trinity parish.  In 1679, the south and east sides of this church, being in a ruinous state, were rebuilt.  The tower was formerly surmounted by a remarkably light and elegant spire, 159 feet in height.  This, however, from the perishable nature of its materials and its exposed situation, required very frequent repairs, and about seventy-five years ago the upper part was so frequently and severely injured by storms, as to require rebuilding thrice in eight years.  In 1811 the whole structure of the spire was in such a state of decay, that reasonable doubts were entertained of its safety, if allowed to remain; it was therefore taken down, and the tower reduced to its present altitude.  The burying ground adjoining this church having been found inadequate to the increased population of the parish, a piece of ground, to the eastward of the city gaol, was purchased in 1809, and converted to that purpose, at an expense of £1,000.

The interior of this church consists of a nave, chancel, and side aisles, divided from the nave by three pointed arches on the south side; but on the north the arches have been removed, and their places supplied by iron pillars.  A thorough repair took place in 1826, when a number of free sittings were erected in the galleries.

Dr. Parnell, Archdeacon of Clogher, whose poems are familiar to every person of taste and feeling, was buried in this church, October 24th, 1718, having died at Chester, on his way to Ireland.

There are several monuments worthy of attention.  Within the communion rails lie the remains of Matthew Henry, the celebrated commentator, who officiated in the Presbyterian chapel in Cook-street; there is a Latin inscription to his memory on a brass plate.  The Rev. F. Ayckbown, M.A., is the rector.

p. 85St. Martin’s Church,

formerly called St. Martins of the Ash, stands at the west end of White Friars and Cuppin-street.  It appears to have been an ancient foundation; for it is mentioned in a deed, in the year 1250, wherein Bernard de Trannuille releases to Philip le Clerk a rent of 12d. arising from premises situate “near the Church of St. Martin in Chester.”  The old church mentioned in this deed, having fallen into decay, was rebuilt in 1721, as we learn from an inscription on the front of the steeple.  The open ground in front of this church bears the name of Martin’s Ash, derived in all likelihood from the circumstance of an ash tree having formerly stood on the spot.  The parish is now united to that of St. Bridget, and the service in St. Martin’s is discontinued.

St. Mary’s Church,

anciently called Ecclesia Sanctæ Mariæ de Castello and Ecclesia Sanctæ Mariæ super Montem, but now St. Mary’s on the Hill, stands at the upper end of Castle-street, at the extreme verge of the liberties of the city.

Although the precise date of the foundation of this church cannot be ascertained, yet it is not improbable that it was one of those founded early in the twelfth century by Lucy, sister of Edwin, Earl of Mercia, and widow of Randle de Meschines, Earl of Chester, a lady remarkable as a benefactress to the “holy church,” even in that church-erecting and endowing age.  At all events, St. Mary’s was gifted to the Abbey of St. Werburgh, by Randle Gernons, Earl of Chester, son of the above-named lady, in one of those fits of compunction which usually followed the acts of violence into which his turbulence and ambition frequently led him.  Shortly after the dissolution, the Dean and Chapter of St. Werburgh obtained a grant from the Crown of the rectory of St. Mary’s, which was surrendered by Dean Cliffe in 1550, to Sir R. Cotton, by whose agent it was sold for £100 to John Brereton, Esq., of Wettenhall, by whose heirs it was again sold to the Wilbrahams of Dorfold, from whom it passed by marriage to the Hills of Hough, in Wybunbury, from whom it was purchased by the late Marquis of Westminster.

St. Mary’s consists of a nave, chancel, and side aisles, with a square tower at the west end, used as a belfry.  The south aisle, called Troutbeck’s Chapel, was erected by William Troutbeck, of Dunham, in the fifteenth century.  This chapel is noticed in the p. 86ecclesiastical survey taken by the Commissioners appointed by Henry the Eighth, and its annual rents, arising from lands and tenements within the city of Chester, are estimated at £5 6s.  In this chapel were many monuments of the founder’s family, which, according to Holmes, “were thought to exceed anything of the kind in England;” but these were destroyed, by the falling in of the roof, in 1660.  In 1690, the parishioners having obtained a grant of the site from the Duke of Shrewsbury, representative of the Troutbecks, built thereon the present south aisle.  The north aisle was anciently called the Chapel of St. Catherine.

The tower of St. Mary’s is only 50 feet high, its further elevation having been objected to by the Governor of Chester Castle, when it was repaired in 1715, lest it should command the castle-yard.

In this church are several monuments well worthy the attention of the visitor.  Amongst these is one to the memory of Thomas Gamul, Recorder of Chester, who died in 1613.  The deceased is represented in a recumbent posture, with his wife on his right hand, and his only son in the attitude of prayer at his knee: on the side of the tomb his three daughters, who died in infancy, holding skeletons in their hands.  The statues of this monument are of alabaster.  Another to the memory of Philip Oldfield, of Bradwell, who died in 1616, represents him in the costume of that age, leaning on his right side, with a roll of parchment in his hand.  The slab is supported by kneeling figures of his four sons, with their hands upon their sword hilts: at the head are figures of his two daughters bearing shields.  In the north aisle are tablets to the memory of different members of the family of Holmes, the celebrated antiquaries.  Of this family, four successively bore the name of Randle.  The first, who was Sheriff of Chester in 1615, and Mayor in 1633, died in 1654; the second was Mayor of Chester in 1643, and died in 1659; the third, author of the ‘Academic Armoury,’ was gentleman sewer to Charles the Second, and Deputy Garter King of Arms, and died in 1699; and the fourth was Deputy Norroy King of Arms, and died in 1707.  Of these four Randle Holmes, the second and third were the celebrated antiquarian collectors; and there are some compilations of a similar nature, brought down to 1704, by the last.  Several stained-glass windows have lately been introduced, the principal ones consisting of a memorial in honour of the heroes of the 23rd regiment of Welsh Fusiliers, who fell at the battle of the Alma in the Russian war: and another to the memory of the late rector, the Rev. W. H. p. 87Massie, who was universally beloved, and who effected great improvements in the church and parish.

St. Mary’s is a rectory, in the gift of the Marquis of Westminster.  The present rector is the Rev. C. Boween, M.A.

There are Sunday evening lectures in this church, under the patronage of the Bishop of the diocese.  They are supported by annual subscriptions, aided by collections in the church.

St. Bridget’s Church.

The old church of St. Bridget, or St. Bride (now removed), was situate on the west side of Bridge-street, exactly opposite to St. Michael’s.  There exists no correct data on which to ascertain the time of its foundation, which tradition attributes to Offa, King of Mercia, who reigned in the end of the eighth century, about which time we are told that several churches were founded in Chester.  There is, however, clear evidence, from writings among the Harleian MSS., that in the twelfth century the patronage of this church belonged to the Lords of Aldford, by one of whom, in 1224, it was quitclaimed to Randle Blundeville.  From another writing it appears that, in 1265, Simon, Abbot of St. Werburgh, in consideration of certain grants and donations, made to him by Bertram de Arneway, bound himself to maintain a chaplain to say mass for the soul of John Arneway, before the altar of the Virgin in St. Bridget’s Church.  This church was formerly surrounded by a wall, which encroached considerably upon Bridge-street, and the ground between this wall and the church was used as a burying-place; but in 1785 the bodies were removed to a piece of ground on the south of the church, and the street widened.  The church walls were refaced with freestone, and other repairs made at the same time.  A gateway formerly crossed the street between St. Bridget’s and St. Michael’s churches, dividing higher from lower Bridge-street.  The old church of St. Bridget was taken down in 1827, under the provisions of the New Bridge Act, in order to improve the approach into the city, and the new church was erected on the north-west side of the castle.  The ceremony of laying the foundation stone was performed by the Right Rev. C. J. Blomfield, then Lord Bishop of the diocese.  The length is about 90 feet, and the width 50, and the church is calculated to contain 1,000 persons.  “It is rather a remarkable circumstance,” says Hemingway, “that although St. Bridget’s parish is wholly within the city, the ground occupied by the church and cemetery is neither within the parish p. 88nor the city, but altogether within the county palatine; but by a clause in the act, it is enacted, that after the consecration, it shall ‘for all purposes, and to all intents whatsoever, be deemed part of, and situated within the said parish of St. Bridget, and within the said city of Chester.’”

The Rev. G. Salt, M.A., is the present incumbent.

St. Michael’s Church

is situate on the east side of Bridge-street, opposite the end of Grosvenor-street, leading to the New Bridge.  The time of its foundation is uncertain, but it is supposed to have been connected with the Monastery of St. Michael, which was given to the priory of Norton by Roger de Lacy in a charter, subsequently confirmed by Henry the Second; it is recorded by Bradshaw, that “the Monastery of St. Michael was burnt by the great fire which happened on Mid-Lent Sunday in 1118, at eight of the clock (all being in church), and consumed the greatest part of the city.”  It is conjectured that this monastery was situated in Bridge-street, in Rock’s-court, where, Dr. Williamson says, “before it was converted into dwelling houses, one might have beheld fair, churchlike windows, and other demonstrations of its being part of a religious house.”  The chancel was rebuilt in 1496, and enlarged in 1678.  The old steeple, which was built in 1710, having fallen into decay, from the perishable nature of the red sandstone, was taken down in 1849, and the present handsome structure, built with white stone, was erected in its place.  The south, east, and a portion of the north walls of the church having also been found to be in a very defective state, they were taken down in 1850; in fact, the church has been almost entirely rebuilt, as none of the old walls remain, except the three internal arches, and a part of the north wall.  The flat ceiling has been removed, but the nave and chancel roofs being principally constructed of oak, and in a good state of preservation, have been retained; they have, however, been re-slated.  The north chancel has been entirely rebuilt and new roofed.  The north aisle of the nave is divided from the body of the church by three pointed arches springing from octagonal columns, the capitals being ornamented with quatrefoils.  The interior of the old building was very inconvenient, unsightly, and dilapidated, but it is now completely restored in proper ecclesiastical style.  The chancel is paved with beautiful tiles, those within the communion rails being liberally given by Mr. Minton.  p. 89Each compartment of the five chancel windows is surrounded with a neat border of stained glass.  The style of architecture adopted in the restoration of the church is the transition from the decorated to the perpendicular, that being considered as best suited to those portions of the old building which are retained.  Great credit is due to Mr. James Harrison, the architect, for the very great skill and judgment he has displayed in the restoration of the church.  The total cost was about £1,700, of which the parishioners borrowed £500 on the security of the church rates; the remaining sum was raised by subscription.  Besides many smaller bequests from different individuals, this parish enjoys, under the will of Dr. Robert Oldfield, dated 24th of April, 1695, “two-thirds of Dunham Hall, and other lands and messuages at Dunham-on-the-Hill, together with lands at Boughton, for the purpose of paying £20 a year to the minister, provided he hold no other preferment, and of binding poor boys apprentices born in that parish, and of maintaining one or more poor boys, who should be apt to learn, at the University.”  Owing to proper objects not having every year presented themselves, the revenues have accumulated, and with the bequeathed property now produce an annual rent of upwards of £400.  St. Michael’s is a perpetual curacy, in the gift of the Bishop of Chester.  The present officiating minister is the Rev. J. F. Hewson.

Christ Church

is situated in a thickly inhabited district called Newtown; the rapid increase in the population of this locality rendering additional church accommodation necessary, the present edifice was erected to supply the need.  It was consecrated on October 23, 1838.  The cost was £3,390 (including £1,000 for endowment, £100 for repair fund, &c.)  The Rev. W. Gibson, formerly rector of St. Bride’s, Chester, and now rector of Fawley, Hampshire, gave £1,425; the then Bishop of Chester (Dr. Sumner), the Rev. Chancellor Raikes, and Miss Rowe, £100 each; H. Raikes, Esq., £55; the late General Beckwith, £50; W. Wardell, Esq., £50; the Diocesan Church Building Society, £500.  The church is built in the early English style of architecture.  The Rev. R. D. Thomas is the present incumbent.

St. Paul’s Church,

the most unsightly church in England probably, is situated near to Barrel Well, Boughton, and was built by public subscription, p. 90under the patronage of Bishop Blomfield and Bishop Sumner.  It was erected in 1830, at the cost of about £2,000.  It is capable of seating about 800 persons; 400 free sittings being appropriated for the poor.  There is no endowment for the church, the income of the minister being derived from the pew rents.  The present incumbent is the Rev. J. Gaman, M.A.

St. Olave’s Church

is situated on the east side of Lower Bridge-street, opposite Castle-street.  It is a small, oblong structure, in outward appearance much resembling a barn.  This church is of great antiquity, having been erected before the Norman Conquest.  In the eleventh century it was possessed by the Botelars, by whom it was given, with two houses in the Market-place, to the Abbey of St. Werburgh, in 1101.

After the great civil war, St. Olave’s fell into disuse as a place of public worship, being only employed for baptisms and burials, on which occasions the minister of St. Michael’s officiated.  It was, however, re-opened as a parish church about the middle of last century, and continued so until the year 1841, when service in the church was discontinued, and the parish united with that of St. Michael’s.

Little St. John’s.

We refer the reader to the notice we have already given of this ancient hospital and chapel in a former page.  The present incumbent is the Rev. William Clarke, B.D.

DISSENTING PLACES OF WORSHIP.

The Unitarian Chapel

claims priority of notice, as being the first dissenting place of worship in Chester.  The following succinct sketch of the history of this building is taken from Pigott’s ‘History of Chester:’—

“The Unitarian chapel is a large brick building, with a burial ground in front, situated between Crook-lane and Trinity-lane, having an entrance from each of those streets, and is generally called Crook’s-lane Chapel.  It was built in 1700 by a large, flourishing, respectable society, which had been formed in 1687 by the celebrated Matthew Henry, son of the learned, pious, and laborious Philip Henry, one of the ejected ministers.  In the register book belonging p. 91to the congregation of this place there is a short account of the rise, progress, and transactions of the society, written by Mr. Henry in 1710, being the twenty-third year of his ministry.  From this account, it appears that in 1682 there were three dissenting congregations in Chester, which had been founded by Mr. William Cook, Mr. Ralph Hall, and Mr. John Harvey, ministers of the Established Church, who had been ejected from their respective livings on account of their non-compliance with the Act of Uniformity.  After the death of Mr. Cook and Mr. Hall, their congregations were entirely broken up and dispersed by the persecutions of the times; but such of them as continued dissenters occasionally held meetings at each other’s houses, or joined Mr. Harvey’s congregation, which assembled at his house in a private manner, in order to avoid the penalties which were then in force against the Nonconformists.  James the Second, under the pretence of universal toleration, but with a view to the establishment of popery, granted them the liberty of public worship, of which they had been deprived in the latter part of the reign of Charles the Second.  It was at this time that Mr. Henry, who began his ministry in Chester, collected the remains of the congregation of Mr. Cook and Mr. Hall, and opened a meeting in White Friars’-lane.  Mr. Harvey, who had been ejected from Wallasey, in Cheshire, continued to preside over a dissenting congregation in Bridge-street for thirteen years after toleration was granted; he died November, 1699; he was succeeded by his son, who resigned in 1706, on account of ill-health.  His congregation, which was large and opulent, was united to that of Mr. Henry, and in 1707 a large gallery was built on the south side of Crook’s-lane meeting-house for their better accommodation.  Thus the three original nonconformist societies were united in one, under the pastoral care of Mr. Henry, who was then the only dissenting minister in Chester.”

Mr. Henry removed from Chester to Hackney in 1713, and died of apoplexy, at Nantwich, where he had been on a visit to his friends, in June, 1714, in the 52nd year of his age, and was buried in Trinity Church in this city.  His exposition of the Bible has gone through very many editions, and is still in great repute.  Mr. John Gardiner succeeded Mr. Henry in 1713, and held his appointment for more than half a century.  During the latter years of his ministry, his religious opinions appear to have undergone a decided change, departing very much from the doctrines maintained by Mr. Henry, which gradually prepared the way for p. 92the full development of Unitarianism in the place by his successor, Mr. Chidlaw, who was an avowed believer and advocate of the tenets peculiar to that system of Socinian doctrine.  The present minister is the Rev. James Macdonald.

Independent Chapel.

This place of worship is situated on the west side of Queen-street.  It is a handsome brick building, having a chaste stone front, with covered portico, and pillars of the Grecian Doric order.  It has galleries on three sides, and will accommodate about 1,200 persons.  It contains also a good organ.  The founders of this chapel were seceders from the Presbyterian congregation in Crook-street, in consequence of a departure from what they held as the principles of a sound faith, as we have already noticed.  For some years they worshipped in a large room in Commonhall-street, afterwards occupied by Mr. Wilcoxon’s congregation.  They formed themselves into a church in 1772, when the Rev. Wm. Armitage was chosen the pastor.  The chapel in Queen-street was erected in 1777; it was very much enlarged in 1838, when great improvements were made in the arrangements of the interior.  At the same time a spacious wing was added to the building, which is used as a lecture-room and as a sabbath school for girls: underneath the lecture-room is a commodious sabbath school for boys.  In addition to the Sunday schools in Queen-street, there are also three branch schools in the suburbs of the city, which are supported by the congregation.  The present minister is the Rev. C. Chapman.

Wesleyan Methodist Chapel.
(OLD CONNEXION.)

This chapel (says Hemingway) was erected in 1811; it is a large, well-built, handsome structure, with a semicircular front, and two entrances.  It is galleried on three sides, and behind the pulpit is a large orchestra for the accommodation of singers, where there is also a well-toned organ.  The introduction of Methodism into this city occurred about the year 1750, and the first preacher who visited the neighbourhood was a Mr. John Bennett.  He commenced his labours at Huntington Hall, in the neighbourhood, the residence of Mr. George Cotton; from thence the preaching was removed to the house of Mr. Richard Jones, in Love-lane, within the city, where a society was first formed; the house soon became too small for them, the society therefore procured and fitted up a p. 93capacious barn in Martin’s Ash, from which time they were regularly supplied with travelling preachers, and where the Rev. John Wesley frequently visited them, in his annual excursions.  After remaining in Martin’s Ash for about twelve years, they had sufficient credit to obtain £520 upon bond, with which they erected, in 1765, the Octagon Chapel in Foregate-street, which they continued to occupy until their removal to St. John-street.  The Wesleyans have also built commodious schoolrooms, which are very numerously attended.  The resident ministers are the Rev. T. Brooks and the Rev. J. E. Cooke.

Wesleyan Methodist Chapel.
(NEW CONNEXION.)

The New Connexion Methodists seceded from the old society on some points respecting the management of the funds, throwing open their financial matters to the knowledge and supervision of the people, and the general government of their societies.  They have a large place of worship in Pepper-street, which is fronted with stone, and supported by four Corinthian pillars.  The ministers are itinerant, and receive their appointment from the annual conference.

The Octagon Chapel

is situated in Foregate-street, and, as already stated, was built in 1765, by the Wesleyan Methodists.  Upon their removal to St. John-street, it was purchased, and has since that time been occupied by its present possessors.  The congregation was collected by the labours of the late Rev. P. Oliver, a clergyman of the Established Church, who embraced the doctrines of the celebrated Mr. Whitefield.  This gentleman (says Hemingway, from whom we quote) converted some outbuildings near his house in Boughton into a chapel, where he officiated until his death without any other reward than the gratification of diffusing among his poor neighbours, according to the best of his judgment, the spirit and principles of evangelical truth.  At his death he bequeathed the chapel to his congregation for a term of years; but upon their removal to the Octagon, they sold their interest in it, and it has since been occasionally used as a place of worship by the Independents of Queen-street.  The congregation at the Octagon is in connection with the societies which were under the patronage of the late Countess of Huntingdon.  The present minister is the Rev. W. Evans.

p. 94The Baptist Chapel

is situated in Hamilton-place; it is a small brick building, erected in 1806.

The Welsh Calvinistic Chapel

stands on the north side of Commonhall-street; it was opened for public service on the 12th November, 1820.  The public service is conducted in the Welsh language.

Commonhall Street

was erected in 1841, by the congregation of the late Mr. Jonathan Wilcoxon, who officiated in an adjoining room, without pecuniary emolument, for thirty-seven years.  After his death the congregation united themselves with the Independents.

The Quakers’ Meeting House

is a plain building, standing on the east side of Frodsham-street.  It is capable of containing several hundred persons, and has a burial ground in front; it is one of the oldest dissenting places of worship now existing in Chester.  Clarkson, in his ‘Memoirs of William Penn,’ says, “Among the places he (William Penn) visited in Cheshire, was Chester itself.  The king (James the Second), who was then travelling, arriving there at the same time, went to the Meeting House of the Quakers to hear him preach.”  In George Fox’s journal, there is an entry which proves that the Quakers have existed as a distinct society in Chester for about 200 years.  Under date 1657, he writes: “From Wrexham we came to west Chester, and it being the fair time, we staid there awhile and visited Friends.”  The resident members of this society are now very few, and the service is seldom performed.

The Primitive Methodists

have a small chapel in Steam-Mill-street, erected about the year 1825, and the members of the society appear to be on the increase.

The Roman Catholic Chapel

is situated on the west side of Queen-street.  It is a small but good brick building, with a Doric portico, supported by four light stone pillars in front, and was built in 1799.  The chapel is now found to be too small for the congregation, and the erection of a p. 95larger edifice is contemplated, when the requisite funds can be provided.  The Rev. J. Carberry is the present priest in residence.

The Presbyterian Chapel

is situated in Pepper-street.  It was erected, in 1827, by the Baptists, but the congregation becoming very small, it was closed some years ago.  In 1846 it was reopened for Presbyterian worship, and has continued to be occupied by a small but respectable society.  The Rev. W. Hunter is the minister.

ENDOWED AND CHARITABLE SCHOOLS.

The King’s School.

This school was founded by King Henry the Eighth, in the thirty-sixth year of his reign, for twenty-four boys to receive £3 4s. each, who are appointed by the Dean and Chapter.  By the charter it is ordained, “that there shall ever be in our church of Chester twenty-four boys, poor and friendless, to be maintained out of the income of our church, of good capacities and given to learning if possible; which, however, we would not have admitted before they can read and write, and somewhat understand the rudiments of grammar; and this at the discretion of the Dean and Head Master.  And these boys we will have maintained at the expense of our church until they have made some tolerable proficiency in the Latin grammar, and have been taught to write and speak Latin, for which end they are allowed the term of four years, or, if the Dean or Head Master see cause, of five and no more.  But we order that no one, unless he be a chorister of our church, be elected a poor scholar that is under the age of nine years.”  Some important alterations have recently been made in the management of the school, which have very considerably increased its efficiency.  We are happy to find that the inhabitants of Chester are availing themselves of the great advantages provided by this excellent institution.  The course of instruction has been made such as to qualify the scholars for any of the literary professions or commercial pursuits, embracing as it does all the elements of a sound mathematical, classical, and general education.  The Head Master is the Rev. J. Harris, M.A.  The chorister boys are educated apart, by a master expressly appointed for that purpose by the Dean and Chapter.

p. 96The Diocesan School.

This institution was established, January 2, 1812, by public subscription, under the patronage of the Bishop of Chester.  It is situated on the south side of the top of George-street, is 80 feet long by 33 wide, and is capable of accommodating 400 children.  It is supported by benefactions and annual subscriptions, and the institution is in a most prosperous condition; its object is to promote a good education among the children of the poor.  The present master is Mr. Beswick, who is efficiently fulfilling the duties of his office.

There are also the Blue Coat School, established by Bishop Stratford, in 1700; the Blue Girls’ School, established in 1721; Infant schools, established in 1825, under the patronage of Bishop Blomfield; Diocesan Training College, erected in 1742, of which the Principal is the Rev. Arthur Rigg, M.A.

Charitable Institutions.

The General Infirmary; Chester Humane Society; The Female Penitentiary; Female House of Refuge.

p. 97CHAPTER VI.
EATON HALL.

Before the visitor leaves Chester, we have no doubt he will be induced to visit Eaton Hall, the princely mansion of the Marquis of Westminster, which is situated in a beautiful park, about three miles to the south of Chester.  The principal approach to the house is through the Chester gateway—a fine building, situated within a short distance of the city.  The design is a spirited copy of St. Augustine’s Abbey Gate, Canterbury, by T. Jones, Esq., architect, of Chester, who has added appropriate wings and wing walls, after the style of architecture in the thirteenth century.  The approach is from a noble esplanade, about 200 feet long by 100 feet broad, at the further end of which the lodge is entered through a pointed arch and groining, enriched with groups of very delicate foliage.  Each side of the archway is defended by an octagonal tower, 50 feet high, rising about 12 feet above the centre of the edifice.  The lower parts of the towers, with the wings, are comparatively plain; the centre of them is enriched with niches, surmounted by bunches of foliage exquisitely carved; the upper part is richly panelled and pierced, which, combined with the battlements, produces a light effect.  The middle, above the archway and between the towers, is enriched with two windows, surrounded by elegant mouldings, with a central niche containing the Westminster arms, supported by the talbots in grand relief.  Above the windows are a series of grotesque heads and fretwork, surrounded with an enriched battlement.  The sides of the upper part are carried through in the same style, but not so highly enriched.  The lodge or wing portions have a window in front, surmounted with a cornice and an appropriate battlement, having angular buttresses.  The inner front on the Eaton side is ornamented in the same manner.  To the sides are attached wing walls, extending 60 feet, pierced with loopholes and embattled, forming a grand tout ensemble.

The present magnificent edifice, the designs for which were p. 98furnished by Porden, was erected upon the site of the old hall (a stately brick mansion, built by Sir John Vanburgh, taken down in 1803), and is considered the most splendid modern specimen of the pointed Gothic in the kingdom.  Although in the general design the florid Gothic order of the time of Edward the Third has been followed, the architect has, in parts, not only availed himself of the low Tudor arch, but has adopted the peculiar style of any period suitable to his purpose, and has made subservient to modern domestic convenience the rich and varied forms in which our ancient ecclesiastical architecture abounds.  The walls, battlements, and pinnacles of the building are constructed of stone of a light and beautiful colour, brought from Delamere Forest; and round the turrets and in various parts of the parapets are shields, charged in relief with the heraldic achievements of the house of Grosvenor, and of other ancient families with whom they are allied.  The building consists of a centre and two wings, the latter differing from each other somewhat in design; of these, that to the south, composed of two compartments, is the more beautiful; this wing is oblong and angular, with four octagonal turrets at the corners, buttresses at the sides, and having the embattled parapets surmounted with pinnacles; the decorations are rich to profusion, but every part accords with the original plan.  The eastern and western fronts agree in their general form and proportions, but the former possesses the greater number of minute decorations.  In the front a cloister extends along the entire length between the two spacious windows of the dining and drawing rooms, and conducts to the terrace: from the terrace, which is 350 feet long, the view is eminently beautiful.  The groves and gardens, with the conservatory, form the foreground; beyond them is seen the noble inlet of the Dee, and a charming extensive landscape fills up the distance.  The view from the gardens embraces the south or library wing, but the opposite extremity is partly hidden by the trees; beyond it, but apparently mingling with the turrets and pinnacles, is seen a lofty octagonal clock-tower, connected by flying buttresses with four slender shafts on a square basement; it is attached to part of the stable court, which recedes from the line of the east front, and which is of great extent.

The principal entrance is on the western front, under a lofty portico, the clustered pillars of which support a beautifully groined ceiling; from this a flight of steps leads to a pair of massive bronzed doors, admitting to the grand entrance hall, which is p. 99elegant and lofty, occupying the height of two stories; it is 41 feet long and 31 feet in breadth, and has a groined ceiling, embellished with the armorial bearings of the house of Grosvenor, and other devices in the bosses that cover the juncture of the ribs.  The branching compartments terminate in a rich centre-piece, from which is suspended a beautiful lamp, which, when lighted, gives the pavement, composed of the choicest marbles, a gorgeous effect: the floor was laid down at a cost of 1,600 guineas.  The screen at the end of the hall is decorated with shields of arms, and consists of five arches, which support a gallery connecting the sleeping apartments on the north and south sides of the house, which are separated by the elevation of the hall.  In lofty canopied recesses at the sides of the hall, are four complete suits of ancient armour; and beneath the gallery two open arches, to the right and left, conduct to the grand staircase and the state bed-room.  Through a pair of massive, richly carved, mahogany folding-doors, which cost 100 guineas each, the visitor is ushered into the saloon, which forms the centre of a suite of apartments of unequalled beauty and magnificence.  The groined and fretted ceilings of these rooms, decorated with the endless ramifications of fanwork tracery and the most beautiful varieties of Gothic foliage, brilliant in colour, and rich with the herald’s skill, yet chastened by the direction of an exquisite taste, and subdued by the propriety of the arrangement—the walls beautified in the richest style of decoration, receiving and reflecting still more glowing hues as the sunbeams stream through the painted glass with which the windows are profusely ornamented—the paintings of the highest excellence—the chandeliers of elaborate workmanship—the gorgeous furniture corresponding with the house—the cabinets of Mosaic ivory and pearl—the golden vases sparkling in the niche—in short, the whole finishing and furnishing of these apartments constitute a combination of costliness and good taste which justly commands the admiration of every visitor.

The saloon is a splendid apartment; it is a square of 30 feet, formed into an octagon by arches across the angles, which give to the vaultings a beautiful form; there are three windows, enriched with tracery, and nearly filled with painted glass, through which a subdued light is admitted, giving to the Gothic character of the saloon a very rich and striking effect.  The elegant fan tracery of the ceiling is supported by twelve slender columns in the angles and sides; the Roman circle, forming the centre, is composed of p. 100numerous mouldings, and ornamented with fruit and foliage.  The stained glass windows represent the heraldic achievements of the noble house of Grosvenor, with those of the ancient families with whom they have formed alliances; and in the upper compartments are six full-length figures of William the Conqueror; Sir Gilbert le Grosvenor, his companion at the time of the Norman invasion, and the nephew of Hugh Lupus; the lady of Sir Gilbert; Sir Robert le Grosvenor, the Crusader; Joan Lady Grosvenor, heiress of Eaton; and Odo, Bishop of Bayeux, uncle of the Conqueror.  The furniture of the room is chaste, both in colour and design.  The chimney-piece is of statuary marble, and opposite to it is an organ, both highly adorned.  This room has recently been richly decorated in the Alhambresque style, by Mr. John Morris of Chester; each panel being most beautifully embellished with landscapes.

The ante-rooms, though of similar proportions, are differently decorated; the ceiling of each is covered with a delicate pattern of tracery, and both are superbly furnished.  The windows are composed of stained glass, representing the figures and arms of six of the Earls of Chester.

The ante-dining-room is a handsome apartment, recently decorated in the Alhambresque style, by Mr. Morris, though with less elaborate finish than the saloon.

The dining-room is well proportioned, being 50 feet by 37 feet.  The simplicity of its design is not owing to any deficiency of ornament; on the contrary, its several enrichments are gorgeous; but in comparison with the other state apartments, which are profusely decorated, it is characterized by a simplicity peculiarly elegant.  Springing from the corners of the room, four ribs extend their ramified tracery over the ceiling, in the centre of which their borders of wreathed foliage unite, and thence from a richly carved boss is suspended a large and noble chandelier.  The sideboard stands in an arched and highly enriched recess, and placed at each end of the room are two canopied niches, containing statues by Westmacott.  At the lower end are those of Sir Robert le Grosvenor, who distinguished himself in the crusades, and of Mary, Lady Grosvenor at the time of the Revolution.  Those at the upper end of the room represent Sir Gilbert le Grosvenor, who came over from France at the time of the Norman invasion, with his uncle, Hugh Lupus, and Joan or Jane Lady Grosvenor, heiress of Eaton in the reign of Edward the Fourth.  The room contains full-length portraits of the late Marquis and Marchioness of Westminster, by p. 101Jackson, R.A.; Abigail meeting David, by Rubens; and the Judgment of Paris, after Rubens, by Peters.  The walls of the dining-room are richly ornamented.

The ante-drawing-room is very elegant; its decorations, in the Alhambresque style, are peculiarly rich.  It contains three most beautiful bookcases, chaste in design and exquisitely finished.

The drawing-room has four magnificent niches, and a noble window with a lofty pointed arch and tracery of rich and beautiful forms, adorned with stained glass.  It is placed at the end opposite the entrance, and commands a fine prospect, the inlet of the Dee forming a conspicuous object in the landscape.  The pattern of the ceiling, which is decorated with compartments numerously subdivided and intersected, is formed in four divisions issuing from clustered pillars with foliated capitals, and united in the centre to an hexagonal frame, elaborately reticulated, from which issues a pendant of foliage sustaining a superb chandelier of crystal.  The number and variety of the carved knots and foliage add to the beauty of the ceiling; but the decorations that increase its effect, and are indeed its most prominent attractions, are the shields on which the heraldic achievements of the various branches of the Grosvenor family are emblazoned.  The pale hue of the ceiling, the gorgeous decorations in the centre, and the rich glow of the crimson velvet with which the walls of this noble apartment are covered, all combine to render it a scene of unsurpassed magnificence.  Corresponding in costly embellishment with its architecture is the furniture, of blue satin, fringed with yellow silk, crimson velvet, and damask satin.  Over the chimney-piece, which is carved in statuary marble, is a lofty mirror in an arched frame, sufficiently broad to admit a pattern of tracery, on the compartments of which crimson velvet is introduced with happy effect.  This splendid apartment contains the following pictures:—Judith with the head of Holofernes, Guercino—Reuben showing to Jacob the bloody garment of his son Joseph, also by Guercino—Antiochus and Stratonice, Pietro de Cortona—Christ and the Woman of Samaria, Mignard—Jacob blessing Ephraim and Manasseh, West—Elijah raising the Widow’s Son, also by West.

The library comprehends the whole of the south wing, and is the most spacious room in the mansion; it varies in breadth, but is 120 feet long.  The bookcases are of rich carved oak, and the windows are ornamented with tracery and stained glass.  When the door is thrown open, the view from the further end of the p. 102library is continued through the vaulted corridor at the opposite extremity of the house, a length of 480 feet.  A very rare piece of antiquity is preserved in the library, it is a gold torque, an ornament of dignity worn by the ancient Britons; it is wreathed, the rods are linked together in a circle, and it measures 10 or 11 inches in diameter.  The library contains many most valuable and rare books and MSS., among which may be mentioned—a copy of the chronicle of Henry of Huntingdon, in which is a curious drawing of the entry of King Stephen into Lincoln; an illuminated MS. on vellum, containing the proceedings of the celebrated suit of arms between Scroope and Grosvenor; and (among other Cheshire MSS.) one volume of collections, containing a transcript of a large portion of the celebrated and lost record, distinguished by the name of “The Cheshire Doomsday;” also the confirmation charter of Chester Cathedral, by the second Ranulf, surnamed De Gernon or Gernons, Earl of Chester, in which the grant of Hugh Lupus is recapitulated.

The great staircase is very richly decorated: at the top of the first flight of stairs are three niches with statues.  On the opposite side, at the foot of the stairs, is an arcade supporting the upper floor; and from these arches, which have open spandrils, the best view of this magnificent staircase is obtained.

The state bed-room is an elegant apartment; the ceiling is vaulted, and the bed is of mahogany, and groined; its principal carved ornaments appear on clustered pillars, detached from the corners.  The sofas are of blue satin, in richly carved and gilt frames, and the other seats are covered in finely-wrought needlework of various colours.  Over the chimney-piece is a mirror, the frame of which is composed of handsomely-clustered pillars, pinnacles, and crocketed canopies, the whole being richly decorated with gilding, and minutely carved.

The tenants’ hall is under the library, and corresponds with it in extent.  The windows are enriched with tracery, and four massive clustered pillars sustain the arches and groins of the ceding, which is remarkably flat, when the breadth of its span is taken into consideration.

The chapel is a small, beautifully-proportioned edifice.  The windows are beautifully ornamented with stained glass, the work of Mr. Ballantine, of Edinburgh.

The east front of the hall is adorned with a raised terrace, from whence, sloping to an extensive piece of water, and intersected by p. 103walks, extend the flower gardens and pleasure grounds, which cover a space of 50 acres.  The extensive pleasure grounds and gardens are laid out with admirable taste; the conservatory, recently erected, is a most beautiful construction, and forms an attractive object.  At the termination of a fine gravel walk, and opposite to the conservatory, a Gothic temple has been built for the reception of a Roman altar, discovered near Chester, 1821.  The Mosaic pavement of the temple was brought from a palace of the Emperor Tiberius, in the island of Caprie, by Lord Robert Grosvenor.

The stables, which form a large quadrangle on the north side of the hall, are erected in a style of architecture correspondent with that of the house, and are separated from it by a small shrubbery.

An elegant iron bridge of 150 feet span, crossing the river Dee, which runs through a part of the grounds, is likewise a real embellishment to the landscape.  This bridge is exceedingly ornamental; it was erected by Hazledine, at an expense of about £8,000.  From each point by which Eaton Hall is approached, it presents a picture of unusual architectural grandeur: the scenery by which the hall is surrounded heightens the effect; westward, the view embraces the mountains of Wales; and to the east appear the Peckforton hills, with the bold rock on which stand the ruins of Beeston Castle.  The river Dee, winding in various directions, imparts great beauty to the varied and extensive landscape.

The noble house of Grosvenor traces its descent through a long line of illustrious ancestors, who flourished in Normandy with dignity and splendour, from the time it was created a sovereign Dukedom, in the year 912, to the conquest of England in 1066, always ranking with the first nobles, and having had the government of many castles and strongholds in that Duchy.  The founder of this ancient house was uncle of Rollo, the famous Dane, and was one of the principal commanders who, in the year 876, accompanied him in his invasion of England.  William, seventh Duke of Normandy, at the time of his descent upon England, in 1066, was accompanied by his twin brother Robert, afterwards Earl of Cornwall, and Odo, Bishop of Bayeux, afterwards Earl of Kent; he had also, for his immediate attendants, his nephew, Hugh Lupus, afterwards Earl of Chester, and Gilbert le Grosvenor, nephew to Hugh.

The present Marquis succeeded to the title in 1845, and is the p. 104twenty-second in descent from Gilbert le Grosvenor, the companion in arms of William the Conqueror.  His lordship, who holds the office of Lord-Lieutenant of Cheshire, married, in 1819, Elizabeth Mary, youngest daughter of the Duke of Sutherland, and has, with other issue, a son and heir, Hugh Lupus, Earl Grosvenor, one of the representatives in Parliament for Chester, for which so many members of this illustrious house have been elected.

Admission to visit Eaton Hall can only be obtained by tickets, which may be had of the principal booksellers, and at the hotels, at fixed prices; the proceeds being distributed by the Marquis of Westminster to public charities.

For further particulars respecting Eaton Hall, see “Hicklin’s Guide to Eaton Hall,” price 1s., published by Hugh Roberts, Eastgate Row, Chester.

ECCLESTON

is a beautiful little village, about two miles from Chester, much resorted to by the inhabitants of that city, and by strangers, from its vicinity to Eaton Hall.  The chief object of attraction is the church, built in 1810 by the late Marquis of Westminster.  The interior of the church is chaste and handsome; in the north transept is the mausoleum of the Eaton family, and opposite to it their pew: over the altar is a fine painting, by Westall, of the Dead Christ.

p. 105CHAPTER VII.
THE GENERAL RAILWAY STATION

is situated in Flookersbrook, and is the terminus of five different lines of railway—viz., the London and North Western; the Chester and Holyhead; the Chester and Mold; the Birkenhead, Lancashire, and Cheshire Junction; and the Great Western: four of which companies contributed, in rateable proportions, towards the erection of the building.  It is one of the most extensive railway establishments in the kingdom, and the works comprise a large and elegant passenger and arrival shed, with all suitable offices, and adjoining which is a most commodious spare carriage shed, a goods depôt, gas works, water works, and three engine sheds.  The whole was designed by C. H. Wild, Esq., C.E., and Mr. Thompson, of London, and carried out under the supervision of Robert Stephenson, Esq., C.E., M.P.

The Passenger Shed occupies a space of ground nearly a quarter of a mile in length, and presents to the city an elegant façade 1,010 feet long, or a frontage, including the house and carriage landings, of 1,160 feet.  It is built of dark-coloured bricks, relieved with copings and facings of Stourton stone.  At each end of the station, and projecting from the main building, there is a shed for the arrival of trains, each 290 feet long by 24 feet broad, covered with an iron roof; in these sheds cabs and omnibuses await the arrival of all trains.

On the inner side of the building is the General Departure Platform, extending 740 feet in length by 20 feet in width; this and three lines of rails is covered with an exceedingly chaste and elegant iron roof, of 60 feet span, designed and carried out by C. H. Wild, Esq., C.E.  Behind this shed again, but visible from the general platform through the arches, is the spare carriage shed, 600 feet long by 52 feet broad.  The whole arrangements of the buildings are admirably adapted to carry on, with comfort to the public and with facility to the employés, the immense business that has so p. 106suddenly been brought to the city by the convergence of so many railways at this point.

The Goods Depôt is situated immediately behind the passengers’ building, and fully accords with it in style.  It consists of a shed, 180 feet long and 120 feet wide, with four railway entrances; and containing three platforms or decks, furnished with 18 cranes and light weighing machines, and the waggons are run alongside the decks to receive or discharge their loads.

The extent of land purchased by the general station committee for station purposes is about 75 acres; and within the station precincts there are more than 7 miles of railway line, with 51 turntables.  The gross cost of the land and buildings has been about £240,000.  A spacious hotel will soon be erected on the land opposite to the station.

The affairs of the station are superintended by a committee of 8 gentlemen, who are elected from the boards of the four contributing companies, and their views are carried out by their manager and secretary, R. L. Jones, Esq., who has so well organized his large staff of officers and men, that the arduous and responsible duties devolving upon him are performed, not only with the greatest efficiency, but also with a most satisfactory courtesy and convenience to the public.

CAB FARES.

Not exceeding three persons; to or from the Railway Station in Brook-street—from or to any part of the city, within the point where the Whitchurch and Northwich roads turn off—Abbot’s Grange and the College—the Sluice House, including Crane-street and Paradise-row—the Maypole in Handbridge, and the New Bridge toll-house, One Shilling.  The same distance; four persons, One Shilling and Sixpence.  Any distance beyond the Borough, One Shilling per mile.  No gratuities allowed to be demanded by the drivers of any cars plying within the Borough boundary, and no charge to be made for luggage not exceeding 100 lbs. in weight.

FARES TO OR FROM ANY OTHER PART OF THE CITY.

Not exceeding three persons; any distance not exceeding 1 mile, One Shilling; and at the rate of One Shilling per mile for every additional mile; and Sixpence for every additional half-mile or fractional part of half a mile.  For four persons; any distance not p. 107exceeding 1 mile, One Shilling and Sixpence.  For four persons; any distance exceeding 1 mile, and not exceeding 2 miles, Two Shillings.  For four persons; any distance exceeding 2 miles, at the rate of Two Shillings for the first mile, and One Shilling per mile for every additional mile, and Sixpence for every additional half-mile or fractional part of half a mile.

BY TIME.

Not exceeding 1 hour, Two Shillings and Sixpence; and Sixpence for every 15 minutes and fractional part of 15 minutes beyond the hour.  In all cases it shall be at the option of the owner or driver to charge by time or distance.

THE POPULATION OF CHESTER.

According to the Census, taken March 31st, 1851, the following is a statement of the population of each parish.

POPULATION OF CHESTER IN

p. 108DISTANCES FROM TOWN TO TOWN IN THE COUNTY OF CHESTER.

The names of the respective Towns are on the top and side, and the square where both meet gives the distance.

HOTELS.

The principal Hotels in Chester are—the Royal, at the Eastgate; the Albion, in Lower Bridge-street; the Green Dragon, in Eastgate-street; the Feathers, in Bridge-street; the Blossoms and the Hop-pole, in Foregate-street; the White Lion, in Northgate-street; the Liverpool Arms, in Brook-street, near the Railway Station; the Ermine, at Flookersbrook, near the Station; the Golden Lion, Foregate-street; the Saracen’s Head, near the Exchange; the Kitchen, at the Eastgate; besides many others of very good repute.

p. 1ADVERTISEMENTS.

WESTMINSTER SAUCE,
PATRONIZED BY THE NOBILITY AND GENTRY OF THE COUNTY AND CITY.

This Sauce, from its peculiar piquancy and zest, is pronounced by connoisseurs to be the best and most generally useful of any yet offered to the Public.

SOLE PROPRIETORS,
BOWERS BROTHERS,
WHOLESALE AND RETAIL TEA DEALERS,
FAMILY GROCERS AND ITALIAN WAREHOUSEMEN,
101, EASTGATE STREET, CHESTER.

Established 1780.

Bowers Brothers respectfully request a TRIAL OF THEIR TEAS, which cannot be excelled either in quality or price.  They have made this branch of their business their especial study for many years, and beg gratefully to acknowledge the kind and increasing patronage which is awarded to them in their efforts to secure for their customers the Best Teas on the Best Terms.

All orders of £2 and upwards delivered at any Railway Station free of carriage.

COFFEES, FRESH ROASTED ON THE MOST APPROVED PRINCIPLE.

FRENCH PLUMS, TURKEY FIGS, MUSCATEL, SULTANA, AND VALENTIA RAISINS, PATRAS CURRANTS, and other CHOICE Dried FRUITS; CANDIED PEELS, GENUINE PICKLES (warranted free from anything deleterious), SPICES, &c., all of the FINEST QUALITY.

Every variety of Burning OILS, CANDLES (including Belmontine, Piano, and other recent and elegant inventions of Price’s Patent Candle Company), Household and Scented SOAPS, PERFUMERY, &c.

AGENTS TO THE SUN FIRE AND LIFE INSURANCE OFFICES.

p. 2Pierce’s Important Improvements in Warming
and Ventilating,

MANUFACTORY AND WAREHOUSE,
5 JERMYN STREET, REGENT STREET.

PIERCE solicits attention to his unrivalled

PYRO-PNEUMATIC WARMING AND
VENTILATING STOVE-GRATE,

For the production of Healthful Warmth, with UNCEASING and SELF-ACTING VENTILATION, and the open cheerful fire, for Warming Churches, Chapels, Infant and other Schools, Public Rooms, Entrance Halls, &c., &c., with a pure wholesome atmosphere, now fully established in public opinion as the best economical Stove-Grate yet submitted to public notice, at

Prices from £7 10s. to £21.

These Grates are now adapted to meet the requirements of every description of room or building where ventilation and comfortable warmth are desirable, and may be seen in daily use at Lloyd’s Rooms, Royal Exchange; at the Bank of Messrs. Alexander and Co., Lombard Street; in the Lecture Rooms of Guy’s Hospital; at the University Hall, Gordon Square; at Westminster Chapel, near Buckingham Palace; at the Albert Life Office, Waterloo Place; at the Linnean Society’s Great Room, Burlington House, and numerous other places.

The best and cheapest Grate for all useful purposes is

PIERCE’S UNIVERSAL FIRE-LUMP GRATE

Which requires no fixing, being made in one piece, having strong octagon bars and bottom, with capacious and safe hobs, complete.  Prices, 11s. 6d., 13s. 6d., 22s. 6d., and 25s.

Also his IMPROVED COTTAGER’S GRATE, for warming Two Rooms with only one fire.  Prices, 30s. and 35s.  Also

PIERCE’S
CELEBRATED FRESH AIR ECONOMICAL RADIATING
Warming and Ventilating Fire-Lump Grates,

as supplied to the various Wards of the London Hospital; the Philological Schools in the New Road, Marylebone; to the New Infirmary at Guildford; to the Bank at Wells, Huntingdon County Hospital, &c., &c., where they can be seen in use, producing salubrious warmth with continuous ventilation, highly satisfactory to all parties, being the most economical and useful Fresh Air Grates that are at present made.  Prices from 30s. to 150s. according to the spaces required to be warmed.

THE ECONOMY OF FUEL is most important, as nearly one-half of the coals uselessly burnt without perceptible benefit will now, with the Fresh Air Fire-Lump Grates, be more than sufficient to produce an equable temperature and perfect ventilation in any room or school to which they may be applied.  It does not now depend upon the reflected heat, as was the case formerly, but the fresh-warmed air continuously supplied is fully equal to the radiant heat given off from the open fire.

PROSPECTUSES, with Illustrated Sketches of these Improvements, with Plans, Sections, and Elevations, for the use of the Architects and Gentlemen who may be building or altering Schools, Class Rooms, Hospitals, &c.  PRICES of such Grates, and their proportions, may be obtained of the Inventor and Manufacturer,

PIERCE, at his Economical Radiating Stove-Grate Manufactory,
5, JERMYN STREET, REGENT STREET.

p. 3RICHMOND & CHANDLER’S
PRIZE CHAFF-CUTTING MACHINE.

This remarkably successful machine has now been before the public for some years, during which time it has received the most distinguished honours that could be awarded—the First Prizes of all the National Societies, and the highest commendations of the Judges of all the principal Societies in Great Britain.  In testing the comparative value of machinery the first consideration is, the power required to work the same: in other words, the power required to overcome the friction of the different parts of the machinery.  Richmond & Chandler beg to observe that the utmost attention is given to the fitting and the perfecting of all the working parts of their machines, which they are determined shall continue to maintain their high position and well-earned celebrity.  On the trial of Chaff Cutters, the following report is found in the leading journal:—

“CHAFF-CUTTING ENGINES.—In this class of implements, Messrs. Richmond and Chandler have surpassed everything that has been produced before, inasmuch as their new machine does the same amount of work, with 45 per cent. less power, in the same time, thereby reducing the expense of this important operation.  Choking in the feed—an evil to which the best of these machines have hitherto been more or less liable—is scarcely possible, from the form of toothed rollers applied.  Altogether the getting up is well worthy the reputation of the inventors.”

The true and unsolicited testimonial here given more than confirms the above report of the Times:—

“To Messrs. Richmond and Chandler.

“Gentlemen,—I herewith enclose you a cheque for the amount of your Chaff Cutter, No. 4.  I had the opportunity of putting it to a strong test throughout the winter, and have much pleasure to inform you that it has given me perfect satisfaction.  I had been in the habit of using a machine for years that had obtained a high degree of celebrity with the Royal Agricultural Association, but I was obliged to get rid of it on account of the amount of labour it required, and the impossibility of making it feed itself.  All these objections are fully obviated by your machine.  A neighbour of mine has another of them, and he is equally pleased with his.  I remain, gentlemen, yours, &c.,

“Orlingbury, Wellingborough, 8th May, 1858.

“A. A. YOUNG.”

Catalogues gratis on application to Richmond & Chandler, Salford, Manchester, and South John Street, Liverpool.

p. 4PALATINE
HORSE INVIGORATING FOOD,

120 Feeds.  In Packets, 19s.

PALATINE
CATTLE & SWINE FATTENING FOOD,
AND
PALATINE

MILK-FORMING FOOD FOR COWS.

120 Feeds.  In Packets, 14s. 9d.

Delivered at any Railway Station, Carriage Free, on receipt of Post-office Order.

G. H. BOLTON & CO.,
AGRICULTURAL CHEMISTS,
WARRINGTON.

The principle of these foods consists in the property of their elements (by the exercise of chemical affinities) to apply the waste usually caused by respiration and perspiration to the production of animal activity, consolidate it into flesh, or determine it to the secretion of milk.

Just published (June, 1858),
ELEMENTS OF ANIMAL NUTRITION
AND ORGANIC CHEMISTRY.

Particularly as regards the vigorous condition of the Horse, the Fattening
of Cattle, and the Formation of Milk in Cows.

BY G. H. BOLTON,
AGRICULTURAL CHEMIST,
WARRINGTON.

Price Sixpence, or forwarded, Post Free, to any address on receipt of Seven Stamps.

p. 5THE MOST
POPULAR SCHOOL HISTORIES.

Embellished with Plates, Maps, Engravings, &c.

WHITTAKER’S IMPROVED PINNOCK’S HISTORY OF ENGLAND.  Forty-fifth edition, 12mo., price 6s., strongly bound in roan.

WHITTAKER’S IMPROVED PINNOCK’S HISTORY OF ROME.  Thirty-second edition, 12mo., price 5s. 6d., strongly bound in roan.

WHITTAKER’S IMPROVED PINNOCK’S HISTORY of GREECE.  Twenty-eighth edition, 12mo., price 5s. 6d., strongly bound in roan.

No editions of these works are genuine except they have the name of the publishers, Whittaker and Co., on the title-page.

Whittaker and Co., Ave Maria-line.

THE AUTHOR’S EDITIONS.
OLLENDORFF’S METHOD
OF
Learning to Read, Write, and Speak a Language
IN SIX MONTHS.

1.  ADAPTED to the GERMAN.  Written expressly for the English Student.  By Dr. H. G. Ollendorff.  In two parts.  Part I. eighth edition, price 12s., 8vo. cloth.  Part II., third edition, price 12s., 8vo. cloth.  The parts sold separately.

^*_*^* Introductory book to Dr. Ollendorff’s method adapted to the German, containing a new system of facilitating the study of the German Declensions, and rules on the Gender of Substantives.  New edition, 12mo. cloth, 3s. 6d.

2.  ADAPTED to the FRENCH.  Written expressly for the English Student.  By Dr. H. G. Ollendorff.  8vo. sixth edition, containing a Treatise on the Gender of French Substantives, and an additional Treatise on the French Verbs.  Price 12s. cloth.

3.  ADAPTED to the ITALIAN.  Written expressly for the English Student.  By Dr. H. G. Ollendorff.  8vo., third edition, price 12s. cloth.

4.  ADAPTED to the SPANISH.  In the press.

KEYS to the ITALIAN, FRENCH, and GERMAN SYSTEMS, prepared by the author.  Price 7s. each, cloth lettered.

It is necessary for those who desire to avail themselves of the present method to notice, that these are the only English editions sanctioned by Dr. Ollendorff, and he deems any other totally inadequate for the purpose of English instruction, and for the elucidation of the method so strongly recommended by Captain Basil Hall, and other eminent writers.  They should be ordered with the publisher’s name, and, to prevent errors, every copy has its number and the author’s signature.

The above works are copyright.

London: Whittaker and Co., and Dulau and Co., and to be had of any Bookseller.

p. 6MR. A. TAIT,
TAILOR, DRAPER, AND HATTER,
BRIDGE STREET ROW,
CHESTER.

WILLIAM FITCH,
(Successor to H. Bailey,)

HAIR CUTTER, WIG MAKER, PERFUMER,
AND FANCY HAIR WORKER,
11, BRIDGE STREET ROW, CHESTER.

Shampooing on the Oxford and Cambridge Principle.

JOHN HOWARD,
LADIES’ AND GENTLEMEN’S BOOT AND SHOE MAKER,
11, BRIDGE STREET ROW, CHESTER.

Ladies’ Boots and Shoes made to Order,

Gentlemen’s Shooting, Fishing, and Dress Boots.

PARIS, LONDON AND DUBLIN BOOTS AND SHOES.

MESSES. EWEN AND REVIS,
AUCTIONEERS, APPRAISERS,
LAND SURVEYORS, CIVIL ENGINEERS,
House, Estate, and General Commission Agents,
CHESTER.

Offices:—The City Auction Mast, Bridge Street Row.

N.B.—A General Rent Audit held every Quarter.

WILLIAMS & SON,
TOBACCO AND SNUFF MANUFACTURERS,

CHESTER.

p. 7FAMILY GROCERY ESTABLISHMENT,

AND
ITALIAN WAREHOUSE,
100, EASTGATE STREET, CHESTER.

DUTTON AND MILLER

Respectfully inform their numerous patrons that their Stock of GROCERY and ITALIAN ARTICLES is now one of the most complete in the kingdom, comprising every article of known merit and recent introduction.  As successors to one of the oldest established Grocery Connexions in Chester, the best endeavours have been made to sustain the reputation enjoyed by their predecessors, and they have the gratification of stating that their Establishment will be found, by those who have not yet honoured it with their patronage, unequalled for the advantageous terms on which FAMILY ORDERS are supplied.

FAMILIES residing in the adjacent counties and principality who may be desirous of giving their articles a trial are respectfully recommended to purchase their

One Guinea Case of Sample Teas and Coffees,

which contains Four Pounds of various priced Teas, and the same quantity of the finest Jamaica and Plantation Coffees.  Any other article required for trial they will have pleasure in substituting.  The cases are delivered, CARRIAGE FREE, at any first-class Station within fifty miles of Chester.

Free Delivery of Orders by Railway.

The Railway facilities of Chester have become so well known that it would be unnecessary to mention more than that the Van-Parcels Trains, leaving Chester daily, possess superior advantages for the speedy transmission of Goods.  Orders to the value of Two Pounds and upwards, are forwarded by these trains, CARRIAGE PAID, to any first-class Station on either Line of Railway.

A full and detailed List of Grocery is annually published in the month of December, compiled with the greatest care, and is of considerable service to Housekeepers.  Their Special List for 1858, with the latest introductions, will be forwarded, together with a detailed list, POST FREE, on application.

Agents for Huntley & Palmer’s Celebrated Reading Biscuits.

p. 8RELIANCE
MUTUAL LIFE ASSURANCE SOCIETY,
71, KING WILLIAM STREET, LONDON.

THE ENTIRE PROFITS DIVIDED AMONG THE ASSURED.

DIRECTORS.

Bankers—Messrs. Williams, Deacon, Labouchere, Thornton and Co.

ADVANTAGES PRESENTED BY THIS SOCIETY.

Life Assurances may be effected upon Increasing, Decreasing, Equal, or Half-Premium Scales; also by Single Payments, and Payments for limited periods.  Tables have been specially constructed for the Army, Navy, East India Company, and Merchant Services; also for persons voyaging to, or residing in any part of the world.—No charge for Policy Stamps.

Endowments for Widows and Children, Pensions for retired Officers and Civilians, Immediate or Deferred Annuities, and every other description of Life Contingency, upon liberal and equitable terms.

The Entire Profits are divided periodically among the Assured, and may, at their option, be applied in reduction of Premiums, or in augmentation of the Sums for which the Policies were granted.

Applications for Agency to be addressed to the Secretary.

E. OSBORNE SMITH, Actuary and Secretary.

WILLIAM PARKINSON,
Plumber, Glazier, and Gas Fitter,
NORTHGATE,
CHESTER.

Baths, Pumps, and Water Closets Fixed on the most
approved principles.

W. WILLIAMS,
BASKET AND HAMPER MANUFACTURER,

AND DEALER IN BRUSHES,
104, BRIDGE STREET (NEAR THE CROSS),

CHESTER.

REPAIRS NEATLY EXECUTED.

p. 9ROYAL HOTEL, CHESTER

VISITORS AND TOURISTS will find the above Hotel in every way adapted to their comfort and requirements, and after a Survey of Chester and its vicinity, the most convenient en route to Scotland, Ireland, and Wales.

D. M‘GREGOR, Proprietor.

To Tourists and others.

T. B. FOULKES,

OLD ESTABLISHED

GLOVE MANUFACTURER AND HOSIER,

CROSS, CHESTER,

Has always in stock a Large Assortment of GLOVES AND GAUNTLETS, of his own and other approved makes.

His PATENT GAUNTLETS continue to give great satisfaction; their accuracy in fitting being very much superior to all others.

J. THOMPSON,
PRINTSELLER, ETC.,
BRIDGE STREET ROW,
CHESTER,

Repository for the Sale of VIEWS IN WALES, of the ANCIENT BUILDINGS
IN CHESTER, and GUIDE BOOKS for Chester and Wales.

ENGRAVER, LITHOGRAPHER, AND COPPER-PLATE PRINTER.

Ladies’ and Gentlemen’s Address Cards Engraved and Printed.

p. 10THE ROYAL FARMERS’
AGRICULTURAL AND COMMERCIAL
INSURANCE COMPANY,

3, NORFOLK STREET, STRAND, LONDON.

DIRECTORS.

Chairman—STEPHEN C. DENISON, Esq., Deputy Judge Advocate, 35, Great George Street, Westminster, London.

Deputy Chairman—B. P. SHEARER, Esq., Swanmore House, Bishop Waltham, Hants.

FIRE INSURANCES on every description of Property, on terms as moderate as any other well-established Office.

No charge for new Fire Policies, if for £300 or upwards, or if removed from other Offices to favour this Company.

HAIL INSURANCE—The Bonus allowed in the year 1856 was upwards of 66 per cent. on Insurances of Five Years’ duration.

LOSSES promptly and liberally settled.

LIFE POLICIES payable to the Registered Holders, by which much inconvenience and expense is prevented.

BONUS GUARANTEED—Insurers of the Participating class will be entitled to four-fifths of the profits; and if no profit shall have been made, the Company will, nevertheless, make such additions quinquennially as will be equivalent to the excess of premium paid over that which would have been required for insurances of the non-participating class.

BONUS—The next division of profits, four-fifths of which will be allotted to Policies of the participating class, will be on the five years ending on the 3lst of December of the present year.  The amounts will be made known to the Policy-holders immediately after the Annual General Meeting in May following.

No charge for Life Policy Stamps.

Additional Agents wanted.  Application to be made to

JOHN REDDISH, Secretary and Actuary.

AGENCIES IN CHESHIRE.

p. 11The Blossoms Family and Commercial Hotel,
CHESTER.

HENRY CUTTER, PROPRIETOR.

To FAMILIES, COMMERCIAL GENTLEMEN, and PARTIES on PLEASURE, the above Hotel offers peculiar advantages, being situated in the centre of the City, adjoining the Post Office, near to the Banks, within two minutes’ walk of the Ancient City Wall, and Cathedral, and the nearest Hotel to the Railway Station.  The above Hotel is one of the OLDEST ESTABLISHMENTS IN THE CITY, and is conducted on principles combining COMFORT WITH THE STRICTEST ECONOMY.

A FIXED MODERATE CHARGE FOR SERVANTS.

Omnibuses to and from the Railway for every Train.

☞ Attached to the above Hotel, and TO BE LET, IS A LARGE AND SPACIOUS ROOM, 25 yards long, well lighted with gas, and to which there is an excellent approach.

Note from the Visitors’ Book at the Blossoms Hotel, received from the Lady of Lord Campbell, Lord Chief Justice of England.—“Lady Stratheden and family passed three nights at the Blossoms Inn, and were well satisfied with the accommodation and attention of Mr. and Mrs. Cutter.”

OLD BOOK REPOSITORY.

GENTLEMEN IN SEARCH OF
RARE AND CURIOUS BOOKS,
Are respectfully invited to inspect the Collection at

G. H. CROWTHER’S REPOSITORY,

ST. WERBERGH STREET,

Where, if they do not find what they want, they may meet with what they
did not expect to find.

Libraries of any extent, and smaller parcels of Books purchased for
immediate payment.

IMPORTANT TO TOURISTS.

Sold by all Stationers, &c.,
SMITH’S PATENT POCKET BOOK,
With Expanding Pockets.

SMITH’S MANIFOLD LETTER BOOK,
Not requiring Ink.  The Writing is Jet Black, and perfectly indelible.
Bound Roan and Lock.

SMITH’S METALLIC MEMORANDUM BOOKS,
AND
PORTABLE WRITING CASES,
With everything requisite for the Tourist.

T. J. & J. SMITH,
PATENTEES AND MANUFACTURERS, LONDON.

p. 12THE GREAT BOTANIC MEDICINE.

DR. TORRENS’ PURE HERBAL PILLS.

No language can convey an adequate idea of the immediate and almost miraculous change produced by making use of these Pills in the diseased, debilitated, and shattered nervous system.  To print all the letters of thanks received from different individuals, describing the great benefit received by making use of this medicine, would fill a book larger than the Bible!  The relaxed and debilitated body and nerves are at once rebraced, restored, enlivened, and built up.  The mental and physical symptoms of all disease vanish together under its influence—the stooping trembling victim of depression or debility becomes a new man; he stands erect; he moves with a firm step; his mind, which was previously sunk in gloom, becomes bright, buoyant, active, and he goes forth refreshed, regenerated, and conscious of new vigour, to his accustomed occupation.  And the effect is not temporary; on the contrary, the relief is permanent; for the cordial properties of the medicine reach the constitution itself, and restores it to its first condition.  Well may this preparation be called the Medical Wonder of the nineteenth century.  It is, indeed, that miracle of medicine that stimulates without producing a corresponding depression.  In all diseases of the stomach and digestive organs it never fails, and by setting the stomach to rights, all the other functions of the body are sure to be set to rights also.  In cases of headache, vertigo, pain in the face and nerves, and all the varied train of nervous affections, these pills perform a cure in an astonishing short period of time.  They also remove depression, excitement, restlessness, want of sleep, a dislike to society, incapacity for business, loss of memory, confusion, giddiness, blood in the head, melancholy, mental debility, hysteria, indecision, wretchedness, &c.  They increase and restore the appetite, strengthen the emaciated, renew the health of those who have destroyed it, cause a continued cheerfulness, and prolong life to the latest possible period.

The following Testimonial of the great value of TORRENS’ HERBAL PILLS is taken out of thousands:—

“To the Proprietor of Torrens’ Herbal Pills.
53, Church-street, Blackburn.

“Sir,—I have just received the twelve dozen of Dr. Torrens’ Herbal Pills, which I am happy to observe are going off in a very satisfactory manner.  Since I last wrote you, I have had frequent testimonials from various persons, old and young, of their beneficial effects—several of whom have stated that they consider the Herbal Pills not only an excellent medicine for correcting vicious humours in the system, but also efficacious in purifying the blood, relieving the liver, cleansing the intestines, and producing vigorous reaction in the whole arterial system.

“Yours faithfully, Charles Tiplady, Bookseller.”

^*_*^* Parties desirous of selling Torrens’ Herbal Pills can be supplied, at wholesale prices, by Messrs. Parry and Son, Booksellers, Chester; or from any of the Wholesale Houses.  Sold also by Mrs. Dutton, City Walls.

Should the reader find any difficulty in procuring a box of Dr. Torrens’ Pills, he can send 15 postage stamps to Richard Brook, Printer, Buxton-road, Huddersfield, when a box will be returned by post to any part of the Kingdom.

p. 13JOHN SMITH & SON,

WOOLLEN DRAPERS, TAILORS, AND HATTERS,

EASTGATE STREET ROW,

CHESTER.

Just Published.  Price Two Guineas, neatly Bound,

ANTIQUITIES OF CHESHIRE,
IN PHOTOGRAPH,

WITH SHORT DESCRIPTIVE NOTES BY
WILLIAM BRYANS, M.A.,
VICAR OF TARVIN, CHESHIRE;

TO WHICH ARE ADDED,
VIEWS OF CONWAY AND CARNARVON CASTLES,

AND OF
HAUGHMOND AND BUILDWAS ABBEYS, SHROPSHIRE.

This Series of Photographic Pictures will contain Views of the most interesting remains of Antiquity in the City and County of Chester; among which will be found specimens of Ancient Domestic Architecture, Churches, Ruins, and Crosses.

Published by Hugh Roberts, Eastgate Row.

TOWN MADE SILK, ALPACA, AND GINGHAM
UMBRELLAS AND PARASOLS!!

AT
GEORGE WILLIAMS AND CO.’S,
GLASGOW HOUSE,
18, EASTGATE STREET, CHESTER.

Gentlemen’s Shirts, Silk Ties, Collars, Wool Vests, Gloves, Hosiery, &c.

G. KENRICK,

PATENT ELASTIC
Spring Truss and Deformity Instrument Maker,
31, EASTGATE STREET, CHESTER.

ARTIFICIAL ARMS, LEGS, ETC.

Elastic Stockings, Knee-Caps, Ancle-Socks, &c.

p. 14ESTABLISHED 1748.

OLD ESTABLISHED
Cheshire Cheese & Family Provision Warehouse,
139, BRIDGE STREET, CHESTER.

ROBERT GRIFFITH PARRY

Begs to return his grateful thanks for the very kind manner in which he has been patronized since he succeeded to the business of his late Grandmother, Mary Griffith (so successfully carried on by her for upwards of 50 years); and he assures his friends that he will endeavour to merit a continuance of their favours, by keeping a constant supply of the best articles at the lowest possible prices.

R. G. P. has always on hand a large stock of the following articles:—

BLADDERED LARD.  Genuine WELSH BUTTER, in pots, from fifteen to forty pounds each, for Families.  FRESH LUMP BUTTER every week.

FAMILIES SUPPLIED ON THE MOST REASONABLE TERMS.

HARP AND PIANOFORTE WAREHOUSES.
ABBEY STREET AND THE NORTHGATE.

BOUCHER & CO.,

Have now a well selected Stock of PIANOFORTES, &c., new and second-hand, for SALE or HIRE, at all prices; including the newly-introduced STUDIO Pianofortes, by eminent makers, at 16 and 18 Guineas, of superior excellence and durability.

Also the ‘FOREIGN MODEL,’ an instrument of the Cottage size, combining every excellence of manufacture with the tone and touch of a small Grand Pianoforte.

Warranty unlimited, with option of Exchange at any time on favourable terms.

Harps, Harmoniums, Concertinas, &c., by the best makers.

Tuning and Repairing of the most extensive descriptions in town and country.  Abbey Street, May, 1858.

ESTABLISHED 1780.
BOWERS BROTHERS,
DISPENSING CHEMISTS,

101, EASTGATE STREET, CHESTER.

PRESCRIPTIONS AND FAMILY RECEIPTS PREPARED WITH THE GREATEST
CARE AND ACCURACY.

And a Variety of other Elegant Requisites for the Toilet.

SCHWEPPE’S SODA WATER AND LEMONADE ON WHOLESALE TERMS.

p. 15TO ADVERTISERS.

THE CHESHIRE OBSERVER,
AND GENERAL ADVERTISER

FOR

CHESHIRE AND NORTH WALES,

IS NOW THE MOST
WIDELY CIRCULATED PAPER IN THE COUNTY,

And is especially devoted to the interests of Chester, Birkenhead, Nantwich,
Northwich, Crewe, Sandbach, Winsford, Congleton, Runcorn,
Knutsford, Middlewich, Wrexham, Holywell, Mold,
Whitchurch, Ruthin, Denbigh, &c.

And the surrounding neighbourhoods, where it has an extensive circulation.

THIS PAPER IS PUBLISHED EVERY FRIDAY EVENING,

AND CONTAINS ALL THE
Local, Provincial, Parliamentary, and Foreign News,

TOGETHER WITH THE
LATEST STATE OF THE MARKETS

Up to the hour of Publication;

ADVOCATES FREE TRADE AND THE INTERESTS OF
AGRICULTURE AND COMMERCE CONJOINTLY;

AND IS BOTH A
POLITICAL AND LITERARY JOURNAL.
ON RELIGIOUS TOPICS IT IS NOT SECTARIAN.

It may be had of all Booksellers and Newsvenders, or of the Publishers,

H. SMITH AND CO.,
BOOKSELLERS AND STATIONERS,
27, BRIDGE STREET ROW, CHESTER.

Price, Stamped, 3s. 3d. per Quarter; Unstamped Copies, 2d. each.

CIRCULATION 2,500 WEEKLY.

p. 16CHESTER HOMŒOPATHIC PHARMACY,
CAXTON BUILDINGS, PEPPER STREET.

EDWARD THOMAS

Prepares the HOMŒOPATHIC REMEDIES in the forms of Globules, Pilules, Tincture, and Trituration.  His experience and care in preparing the Medicines has procured for him the confidence of the profession and the public in various parts of the Kingdom.

STANDARD WORKS ON HOMŒOPATHY.

Medicine Chests and Cases,

Of various sizes and forms, adapted to Professional and Domestic Treatises on Homœopathy.

DR. THOMAS ON ARNICA,

Calendula, Cantharides, Ledum, Ruta, and Rhus,
as EXTERNAL REMEDIES in Accidents.
Price 1s., post free.

THOMAS AND GUERNSEY’S DOMESTIC PRACTICE,
Price 5s., post free.

THOMAS’S HOMŒOPATHIC COCOA

Is prepared especially for Invalids and persons of weak digestion; and is confidently recommended as an agreeable and wholesome beverage.

Illustrated Priced Catalogues of Medicines, Chests, Books, &c., sent free
on application.

SINGLE TUBES OF THE MEDICINES SUPPLIED.

CHESTS OR CASES REFITTED.

p. 17

GEORGE HOTEL,
BANGOR FERRY,
NORTH WALES.

In returning her grateful thanks for the patronage and support which she has received during the last fifteen years,

MISS ROBERTS

begs to inform her friends and the public, that during the winter season she has added to the comforts and accommodation at “THE GEORGE,” on a scale calculated to meet its present requirements.

Among the buildings now added to “THE GEORGE,” is a New Coffee Room, on a magnificent scale; adjoining which, and fitted up in a style appropriate for evening reception, is an Octagonal Drawing-Room of corresponding proportions.  Above is a new range of Sleeping Apartments, which enables Miss Roberts to make up forty additional beds.

The Stables have been much enlarged and improved; the Carriage and Posting departments having, at the same time, undergone thorough revision.

Additional Hot and Cold Baths have been built, and are always ready.

Sea-Bathing may be enjoyed at the foot of the grounds.

Omnibuses from “THE GEORGE” meet every train at Bangor Station.

Liverpool Steamers ply to and from Bangor Ferry daily.

Pleasure and Sailing Boats are in constant attendance, and the Sea Fishing in the Straits opposite the house seldom fails to afford sport.

“THE GEORGE” is lighted by gas manufactured for its sole use, and free from any impurity.

Two Tables d’Hôte are served daily; one at 3, and the other at 6, P.M.

The House is, as usual, supplied with Wines of the first class.

The growing necessity which Miss Roberts has of late experienced for more ample accommodation, to meet the requirements of the increased numbers who honour her house with their patronage, has induced her, at a very large outlay, to perfect her present arrangements; and she ventures to express a hope that the spacious and well-appointed Apartments which have formed part of her plan, will now be found sufficient for a demand which for some time past it has been difficult fully to provide for.

George Hotel, Bangor Ferry, June, 1858.

p. 18Atlas Fire and Life Assurance Office,
92, CHEAPSIDE, LONDON.

ESTABLISHED 1808,
And Empowered by Act of Parliament of the 54th Geo. III. c. 79.

DIRECTORS.

Auditors.—John Oliver Hanson, Jun. Esq., and Philip Ainslie Walker, Esq.

Actuary.—Charles Ansell, Esq. F.R.S.  Solicitor.—Thomas Browning, Esq.

LIFE DEPARTMENT.

The Accumulated Premiums are over £1,600,000.  And the Annual Income exceeds £184,000.

Bonuses have been declared on Policies to an amount greater than the sum originally assured.

Premiums have been extinguished, where the parties assured have applied the bonus in reduction to the Annual Premium.

At the last valuation up to Christmas, 1854, there existed a Surplus of £268,691, which had accrued during the five years ending at that period—the whole of which Surplus belonging to the policy holders.

The next valuation will be made up to Christmas, 1859.  Policies on the Participating Scale, in England or Ireland respectively, which may be effected before that date, will, if the parties be then alive, participate in the surplus in proportion to the time they may have been in force.

The sum of £3,130,975 has been paid during the existence of the Office for claims under Life Policies, of which amount a very considerable part was for Bonuses.

Persons assuring in Great Britain have the option of

Participating Rates of Premium, or of
Non-Participating Rates.

The Directors beg to announce that the rates of Premium have been recently revised and re-adjusted in accordance with a long experience, and that

The New Scale will be found very advantageous to persons desiring to commence assuring early in life.

The Non-participating Scale is particularly adapted to parties wishing to assure a fixed sum only, at a fixed rate of Premium, and on low terms.

Premiums may be paid Annually, Half-yearly, or by a limited number of Annual Payments.  The last-named mode of Assurance originated with this Office in 1816.

FIRE DEPARTMENT.

Renewals should be paid within fifteen days after the respective Quarter-days when they become due.

The Company undertakes the assurance of Property in the Manufacturing, Agricultural and other districts, on favourable terms.  Risks of extraordinary hazard on special agreement, upon survey.

An Allowance for the Loss of Rent of Buildings rendered untenantable by Fire is one of the advantages offered by the Company.

Tables of Rates, forms of proposal, and any information needful to effect Life or Fire Assurances, may be obtained on application to the Office, No. 92, Cheapside, London, or to any of the Company’s Agents.

London, May, 1858.

Henry Desborough, Secretary.

AGENTS FOR CHESTER:
MR. HUGH ROBERTS, AND MR. THOMAS CATHERALL.

p. 19WOOD’S
SUFFOLK IRON WORKS, STOWMARKET,

WILL EXHIBIT AT THE
ROYAL AGRICULTURAL SOCIETY’S

CHESTER MEETING,

A SELECTION OF A FIRST CLASS CHARACTER, COMPRISING

STOCK FEEDING IMPLEMENTS,
BARN MACHINERY,
FIELD AND ROAD IMPLEMENTS,

WITH OTHER MACHINERY,

AMONGST WHICH WILL BE FOUND

Steam Engines, Thrashing Machines,
Grinding Mills, Crushing & Ribbling Mills,

HARWOOD’S PATENT REAPING MACHINE,
PHILLIPS’ IMPROVED NEW ROOT MINCERS,
PALMER’S PATENT CHAFF CUTTERS,

PHILLIPS’ PATENT FERTILIZING LEVER HARROW AND
WEED EXTIRPATOR,

COMBINED WITH

HOWARD’S PATENT HORSE RAKES,

THE
SALISBURY FIRST PRIZE ONE-HORSE SUFFOLK CARTS,

WHEELS FOR WAGGONS, WAINS, &c., &c.,

HORSE POWERS FOR DRIVING MACHINERY,

&c., &c., &c.

Illustrated Handbooks, with Illustrations and Prices of which will be sent
post free, on application to

WOOD’S SUFFOLK IRON WORKS, STOWMARKET.

p. 20The Royal Agricultural Society’s Meeting at Chester,
1858.

FIRST CLASS AGRICULTURAL MACHINERY.

R. GARRETT AND SONS,
LEISTON WORKS, SAXMUNDHAM, SUFFOLK,

AND AT
40, MARK LANE CHAMBERS, E.C.,

Respectfully solicit the continued patronage and support of the numerous body of Agriculturists, Shippers, Merchants, and others, whom they have had the honour of supplying with Agricultural Machines and Implements for the last thirty years.  With their extensively increased facilities for manufacturing, R. G. and Sons are now enabled to supply with dispatch, and at the lowest cost consistent with sound workmanship and thorough efficiency, combined with practical utility—Fixed and Portable Steam Engines, for Agricultural Purposes, Contractors’ work, &c., &c.; Combined Thrashing and Dressing Machines, for steam, water, and horse power; Drills of every description; Patent Manure Distributors, and Patent Horse Hoes; Chaff and Straw Cutters, for steam, horse, and hand power; Corn-Dressing and Winnowing Machines; Improved Reaping Machines; Hay Machines and Drag Rakes; Sawing Machinery, from four to twenty horse-power; Stone Grinding Mills and Flour-Dressing Machines; Tile, Pipe, and Brick Machines; Barn and Field Implements of the most approved construction, &c., &c., &c., full particulars of which will be found in

R. G. and Sons’ Illustrated Catalogue.

For the above Machines R. Garrett and Sons have received 161 Money Prizes, 31 Gold and Silver Medals, besides the Great Council Medals and Gold Medals of Honour of the Exhibition of all Nations, held in Hyde Park in 1851, in Ireland in 1853, in Paris in 1855, and in Vienna in 1857.

Complete sets of the most improved Farm Machinery are erected by Garrett and Sons, adapted to the nature and size of the occupations, and with the arrangements best suited to the buildings.  Plans and estimates will be furnished, with reference, on application; also Catalogues, in either English, French, or German, sent postage free, on application as above.

SALISBURY SHOW, July, 1857.

The competition by R. G. and Sons, at this meeting, was confined to the class of Horse Hoes and Drills, and, after a most patient and searching trial, the First Prize in Horse Hoes was again awarded to R. G. and Sons’ well-known Implement, which has now been before the Public upwards of fourteen years, taking the First Prize at every meeting at which it has competed, distancing all competitors, and has earned for itself a reputation such as no other implement ever has done.  This result is the more important when it is borne in mind that no further competition will take place in Horse Hoes until the year 1860.  No less than 64 Horse Hoes were exhibited at Salisbury, all of which, by the awards, are pronounced more or less inferior to

R. G. & SONS’ PRIZE MACHINE.

The following statement shows the result of the competition—

And at the Waterford Meeting, August, 1857, R. G. and Sons received for their

IMPROVED EIGHT-HORSE POWER PORTABLE ENGINE,
AND FINISHING, THRASHING, AND DRESSING MACHINE,

AND OTHER IMPLEMENTS,
THE PRIZE OF £30 FOR THE BEST COLLECTION,
AND A SPECIAL MEDAL FOR THE ENGINE AND MACHINE.

N.B.—Early Orders are respectfully solicited, and will ensure prompt attention.  Leiston Works, June, 1858.

p. 21VISITORS
BEFORE YOU LEAVE CHESTER

CALL AT No. 117, BRIDGE STREET,

AND SEE THAT ANCIENT RELIC OF THE ROMANS,

THE BATH AND HYPOCAUST,

PRONOUNCED BY ALL ANTIQUARIANS TO BE THE

GREATEST CURIOSITY IN CHESTER.

“Near to the Feathers Hotel, in Bridge Street, are premises now occupied as a China Shop, in which are the remains of the Roman Hypocaust and Sweating Bath, the use of which appears to have been very general among the Romans, and regarded by them as one of their chief luxuries.  From the details which have been handed down to us by ancient historians, respecting these curious erections, we learn that they were not only constructed so as to secure the comfort and convenience of the bathers to the fullest extent, but were often built in the most magnificent style of architecture.  The one in Bridge Street, which circumstances have happily spared, is in a tolerably perfect state.”

FIRST CLASS AGRICULTURAL MACHINERY.
R. HORNSBY AND SONS,
SPITTLEGATE IRONWORKS, GRANTHAM, LINCOLNSHIRE,

Invite the attention of Agricultural Shippers, Merchants, and Others, to their improved Agricultural Machinery, comprising—Patent Portable Steam Engines, Patent Combined Machines for Threshing and perfectly Dressing Corn for Market at one operation.  Improved Circular Saw Benches, Portable Corn Grinding Mills, Corn, Seed, and Manure Drills of all Kinds, Patent Corn Dressing Machines and Blowers, Chaff Cutters, Cake Breakers, Ploughs, &c. &c. &c., the pre-eminent excellence of which is fully attested by the numerous prizes which have been awarded to them in the United Kingdom, on the Continent of Europe, and in the Colonies, numbering in all about 200 money prizes of £1,400 value, and twenty-one Gold, Silver, and Bronze Medals, including the Great Council Medal of the Exhibition of the Industry of all Nations, London, 1851; the Grand Medal of Honour at the Universal Exposition, Paris, 1855; three Gold Medals of the Imperial Royal Agricultural Society of Austria, at Vienna, 1857; the Gold Medal of the Agricultural Society of Gers, at Condom, 1857; and the first prize of the Agricultural Society of Geelong, Australia.

Illustrated Catalogues, with Prices of Engines and Thrashing Machines, greatly reduced for the present year, sent free, by post, on application to R. HORNSBY AND SONS, Spittlegate Iron Works, Grantham, Lincolnshire.

FOR EXPORTATION—Engines, Machinery, and Implements specially adapted, may be had through all British Merchants and Shipping Agents.

M. WILLIAMS,
SILK, WOOLLEN, & COTTON DYER,
CLEANER, GLAZER, AND HOT PRESSER,
ST. WERBURGH STREET, CHESTER.

Gentlemen’s Wearing Apparel Renovated.  Blankets and Carpets scoured on the
shortest notice, and on the most reasonable terms.

p. 22EDWARD PARIS,
BAZAAR AND FANCY REPOSITORY,
73, EASTGATE ROW, CHESTER.

Visitors to Chester are respectfully invited to inspect the large and well assorted Stock of Toys, Games, and Fancy Goods, at the above Establishment, where, if they do not wish to purchase, they may pass an agreeable half hour.

BLAKE,

(LATE GIBBONS,)
CONFECTIONERY & GENERAL REFRESHMENT ROOMS,
EASTGATE ROW,
CHESTER.

SOUPS, STEAKS, CHOPS, COFFEE, TEA, &c., &c.

LEMONADE, SODA WATER, AND GINGER BEER.

MELTON MOWBRAY PIES.

GENTLEMEN’S CLOTHING ESTABLISHMENT,
5, BRIDGE STREET ROW, CHESTER,

G. MARSH,
TAILOR AND DRAPER.

MADE TO MEASURE, AN EXCELLENT SUIT OF BLACK FROM 55s.

FUNERALS FURNISHED.

W. A. BILLINGTON,
CONFECTIONER & BRIDE-CAKE MAKER,
45, WATERGATE ROW, CHESTER.

(Within two minutes’ walk of City Walls, Racecourse, &c.)

Parties Visiting Chester will find his Refreshment Rooms

REPLETE WITH
SOUPS, STEAKS, PIES, JELLIES, PASTRY,
IN VARIETY.
TEA AND COFFEE, BURTON ALES, LONDON PORTER.

p. 23A BEAUTIFUL ASSORTMENT OF
WRITING DESKS, INKSTANDS, ETC.,

AND OTHER ARTICLES SUITABLE FOR PRESENTS,

BEST RUSSIA LEATHER WRITING CASES,

Despatch Boxes, and Tourists’ Cases,

AT
HUGH ROBERTS’,
EASTGATE ROW, CHESTER.

AGENT TO THE LONDON STEREOSCOPIC COMPANY.

STEREOSCOPES
FROM 3s. 6d, EACH.
A LARGE NUMBER OF SLIDES ALWAYS ON HAND.

W. W. BRITTAIN,
Woollen Draper, Tailor, and Hatter,
BRIDGE STREET ROW,
CHESTER.

FUNERALS FURNISHED.

HARRISON,
JOINER AND BUILDER,

KING STREET, NORTHGATE STREET,
CHESTER.

SEASONED AND PREPARED TIMBER,
Doors, Sashes, Architraves, Skirtings, Staircases, Shop Fronts,

AND ALL KINDS OF

JOINERS’ WORK,

OF FIRST-RATE QUALITY, EXECUTED ON THE SHORTEST NOTICE.

p. 24CLAYTON, SHUTTLEWORTH, & CO.,
STAMP END WORKS, LINCOLN,

AND

78, LOMBARD STREET, LONDON, E.C.

IMPROVED PORTABLE STEAM ENGINES.

The large and increasing demand for CLAYTON, SHUTTLEWORTH, & CO.’S Steam Engines and Machinery, together with the numerous and flattering testimonials daily received, is a sufficient proof of the high estimation in which they are held, both in this and foreign countries, and renders it quite unnecessary to say much upon the subject in an Advertisement.  Already more than two thousand seven hundred have been manufactured, upwards of five hundred of which, of various powers, were disposed of within the last twelve months.  Simplicity of construction, combined with correct principles, excellence of workmanship, and quality of materials, are the aim of CLAYTON, SHUTTLEWORTH, & CO., in all their manufactures.

Full particulars, in Illustrated Catalogues, on application.

p. 25CLAYTON, SHUTTLEWORTH, AND CO.’S COMBINED BOULTING, THRASHING, STRAW SHAKING, RIDDLING, AND WINNOWING MACHINE.

This Machine took the First Prize at the Royal Agricultural Society’s Meeting at Lewes, 1852; also at Lincoln, 1854; and at Carlisle, 1855, was awarded the Honorary Silver Medal, with a High Commendation, for the introduction of a Patent Apparatus for Separating the Corn and Delivering it in Sacks ready for Market.  This is an object often attempted, but never before effectually accomplished by a Portable Machine.  As a proof of the superiority of C., S., & Co.’s Combined Thrashing Machines over all others, they think the following extract, copied from the Judge’s Report of the Royal Agricultural Society’s Meeting, held at Lincoln, 1854, is sufficient to establish their well-earned reputation:—

“Not long since the farmer was satisfied to thrash an increased quantity of corn by the application of steam power to the old thrashing box.  Soon he finds he must have his corn partially dressed; but now he must have it finished, sacked, and weighed for market.

“For these last improvements we are much indebted to Messrs. Clayton and Shuttleworth; and here I must remark that they were rather in advance of the Society, for they brought out their finishing Machine at Lewes previously to a prize being offered.

“Portable Thrashing Machines, not exceeding Eight Horse Power, with Straw Shaker, Riddle, and Winnower, that will best prepare for the finishing Dressing Machine—to be driven by Steam.

“The Prize of £20 was awarded to Messrs. Clayton and Shuttleworth, the performances of whose Machine were, on the whole, superior to any other, and its construction inferior to none.”

p. 26FIXED STREAM ENGINE.

Of this work the Judges of the Lincoln Meeting report—“Too much can scarcely be said in its praise, for it was next to impossible for a machine to thrash and dress corn in a better manner.  There was neither tail corn amongst the best, nor best corn amongst the tail; and the latter was again separated into marketable, chicken corn, whites, seeds, &c., each delivered into sacks from separate spouts.”

The above Engraving represents a Six-horse Power Horizontal Cylinder Steam Engine, erected complete upon metal foundation plate, which arrangement renders it easy of removal—an important point to a Tenant Farmer.  The principle of this Engine is direct action, which simplifies the whole arrangement, inasmuch as the working parts are fewer in number, more compact, and less likely to get out of repair.  Being secured upon one bedplate renders it unnecessary to have any bearings or fastenings in the partition or adjoining walls of the building in which it is inclosed.

It is supplied with Cylindrical Cornish Boiler of ample size and strength, the whole being made of the very best material, fitted and finished in a style equal to any house in the trade.

N.B.—As different situations, in almost every case, involve special arrangements, C. S., & Co. will be happy to furnish Plans and Specifications where fixed machinery is required.

p. 27PORTABLE GRINDING MILL.

CLAYTON, SHUTTLEWORTH, & CO.

Call attention to their GRINDING MILL, which has taken the Prize year after year; also, Sawing Machinery, Irrigating Machinery, to be driven by their Portable Engines, &c., &c., particulars of which, in an Illustrated Catalogue, will be forwarded free, on application to the

STAMP END WORK, LINCOLN.

OR
78, LOMBARD STREET, LONDON, E.C.

Royal Agricultural Society, Chester Meeting.

p. 28JOHN WARNER, AND SONS,
Hydraulic Engineers, and Bell and Brass Founders to Her Majesty,

8, CRESCENT, CRIPPLE GATE, LONDON;
And at the Royal Agricultural Society’s Show at Chester, where the following and many
other articles may be seen at their stand.

Patent Cast Iron PUMP, fitted with J. W. & Sons’ Patent Bucket and Sucker, which cannot clog in action, for Farms, Cottages, Manure Tanks, and Wells not exceeding 28 feet.

Patent Brass LIFT and FORCE PUMP, on Plank, for House purposes, supply of Cisterns, &c.

IMPROVED LIQUID MANURE, OR GENERAL PORTABLE PUMP.

These Pumps are fitted with J. W. & Sons’ Patent Bucket and Sucker, and cannot clog in action.  The Barrel is of Galvanized Iron, not likely to corrode, and can be raised or lowered at pleasure.  The Legs will fold together, and the whole may be carried on the shoulder to any pond or tank required.

Larger sizes of the above, if required.

Price of 4½ in. Liquid Manure Pump, with legs, £3 3s.; 1¾ in. Gutta Percha Suction Pipe,
1s. 11d. per foot; 2 in. Flexible Rubber and Canvas Suction Pipe, 3s. per foot.
The Barrel is 27½ inches long, and the legs are 5 feet high.

BRASS SYRINGES, from 9s. to 18s.

CONSERVATORY PUMP, No. 32, with
Warner’s Registered Spreader, 27s. 6d.

Warner’s Cattle and Sheep Bells, in Sets of 6, with straps, per set, 13s.

Musical Sheep Bells, with straps, in sets of 6, 19s.; ditto, in sets of 8, 25s.; ditto, in sets of 12, 38s.

The great 16-ton Bell, for the Houses of Parliament, was made by J. Warner and Sons, 1856, under their Patent.

Patent Church, Turret, and Alarm Bells, of all sizes, at per pound.  Old Church Bells Recast, or taken in exchange.

Galvanized Iron Tub GARDEN ENGINE, with Warner’s Registered Spreader, is strongly recommended for durability and low price, viz., £219s., to hold 10 gallons.  Larger sizes can be had, in either wood or iron.  Also Warner’s Swing Water-Barrow, to hold 40 gallons, £3 3s.

May be obtained of any Ironmonger or Plumber, in town or country; or of the Patentees and Manufacturers (as above).

p. 29LISTON’S LIVER PILLS,

PLATT AND SON;
CHEMISTS TO HER MAJESTY,
EASTGATE ROW.

W. FARISH’S
Commercial Temperance Hotel,

No, 6, BROOK STREET,
LATE OF EGERTON STREET, CHESTER,

Is conveniently situated for business, in the leading thoroughfare to the City, within five minutes’ walk of the Railway Station and Post Office, and is fitted with a view to the comfort of Commercial Gentlemen, Visitors, &c.

Omnibuses pass to and from every Train.

J. E. EWEN,

HOSIER, GLOVER,
AND
SHIRT MANUFACTURER,

8, BRIDGE STREET ROW, CHESTER.

T. WILCOCK & SON,
FAMILY GROCERS, TEA DEALERS,

AND
ITALIAN WAREHOUSEMEN,
67, EASTGATE ROW, CHESTER.

p. 30MESSRS. LOWNDES AND SMITH

Beg to inform the Farmers, Gentry, and inhabitants of Cheshire, that they have been appointed sole Agents for the undermentioned Collieries, &c:—

INCE HALL COAL AND CANNEL COMPANY, WIGAN;

Messrs. Haworth & Thompson, Trydelger Lodge, near Mold; and

MR. THOMAS TICKERS, MANCHESTER,
For the Sale of his celebrated Manure, known as the
BRITISH FERTILIZER; SUPERPHOSPHATE,
AND BOILED BONES.

N.B.—HENRI and CO.’s Patent Horse and Cattle Feed always on hand.

Office, No. 5, Railway Coal Station, Chester.

BONES & GUANO

LIEBIG STEAM POWER BONE MILLS.

Ground Bones, various sizes.

DISSOLVED BONES, WARRANTED PURE.

APPLY TO
ARNOTT BROTHERS,
LIVERPOOL.

AGENTS FOR “GRAY’S” SCOTTISH PLOUGHS
AND IMPLEMENTS;
HORNSBY’S NORFOLK FARM MACHINES, ENGINES, &c.

p. 31WILLIAM BOX,
Gas Fitter, Brass Finisher, Brazier,

AND BELL HANGER,

BROOK STREET, NEAR FRODSHAM STREET BRIDGE,
CHESTER.

Chandeliers, and every description of Gas Fittings supplied,
and neatly repaired on the shortest notice.

BRONZING AND LACQUERING
DONE ON THE PREMISES ON REASONABLE TERMS.

REPAIRS EXECUTED IN ALL THE VARIOUS BRANCHES.

Bride Cake Manufacturer

RICHARD BOLLAND,
CONFECTIONER,
EASTGATE ROW, CHESTER,

Successor to the late Mrs. Thomas.

(NO OTHER PERSON HAVING THE PURCHASE AND USE OF HER
RECEIPTS FOR THE MANUFACTURING OF BRIDE CAKES.)

Wedding Breakfasts
FURNISHED IN WHOLE OR PART.

PIC-NIC PARTIES SUPPLIED.

FRENCH AND ORNAMENTAL CONFECTIONERY.

Parties visiting Chester will find his Refreshment Rooms replete with
Soups, Pies, Jellies, Ices, and Pastry in variety.

p. 32J. KEARTLAND,

WHOLESALE AND RETAIL TEA DEALER,
FAMILY GROCER, AND HOP MERCHANT,
140, UPPER BRIDGE STREET,
CHESTER.

MESSRS. WILDIG & WILLIAMS,

PLUMBERS, GLAZIERS, BRASSFOUNDERS, AND GASFITTERS,

CUPPIN STREET, CHESTER.

JOHN HITCHEN,
SURVEYOR, BUILDER, AND CONTRACTOR,

EATON ROAD,

CHESTER.

THOMAS DAVIES,
DRAPER, SILK MERCER, ETC.,

LONDON HOUSE,
BRIDGE STREET, AND BRIDGE STREET ROW,
(Opposite Grosvenor Street,)
CHESTER.

JOHN & THOMAS HIGGINS,
WOOLLEN DRAPERS AND HATTERS,

14, BRIDGE STREET ROW, CHESTER.

FUNERALS FURNISHED.

p. 33THOMAS GIBBS & CO.,

THE
SEEDSMEN

TO THE
Royal Agricultural Society of England,

CORNER OF
HALF-MOON STREET, PICCADILLY,
LONDON,

Beg to announce that they supply Mixtures of Grass Seeds for permanent Pastures and Meadows, Parks or Field Lawns, Cemeteries, Garden Lawns, and Grass Plots, &c., &c.

AGRICULTURAL SEEDS OF ALL DESCRIPTIONS.
KITCHEN GARDEN & FLOWER SEEDS,
in assorted Packets, or separately, to order.

Shipping Orders carefully executed to any extent.

Priced Lists forwarded on application to

THOMAS GIBBS & CO.,

Corner of Half-moon Street, Piccadilly,
London, W.

HUGH ROBERTS’
General Circulating Library and News-Room,
EASTGATE ROW, CHESTER.

TERMS OF SUBSCRIPTION.

A Magazine or Review is allowed with each of the above.

Reading Societies, Book Clubs, or Families residing in the same vicinity, are supplied at the rate of £5 per Twenty Volumes, with liberty to exchange them at pleasure.

Single Subscription to the Library and News-Room, One Guinea per Annum, payable in advance.

p. 34ROYAL AGRICULTURAL SOCIETY OF ENGLAND.
CHESTER MEETING, 1858.

SMITH AND ASHBY,
Agricultural Implement Manufacturers,
STAMFORD, LINCOLNSHIRE,

Beg to direct attention to their celebrated HAYMAKING MACHINES, Patent Steel Tooth HORSE RAKES, Patent Wheel HAND RAKES, New Patent Improved CHAFF-CUTTING MACHINES, Oil Cake Mills, and Horse Works, They also invite special notice of their New TWO-AND-A-HALF HORSE PORTABLE STEAM ENGINE, for agricultural and general use, with compact Thrashing Machine, Grinding Mill Chaff Cutter, Root Pulper, Cake Mill, Corn Crusher, and Circular Saw Bench to attach to ditto.  Now exhibiting at their stand, No. 27, in the Show-yard.

This is the Machine that took the £5 prize against Mr. Nicholson’s Haymaker, at the Great Waterford Trial, last August (1857), immediately after the Salisbury Show.  The above trial was conducted under the direction of the same Judge who was engaged at the Royal Society’s Trials at Salisbury.  The circumstance proves that Smith and Ashby’s Machine is the best Haymaker in use.  This celebrated Machine has taken Thirty-one First-class Prizes, and has stood the test of twelve years.

N.B.—S. & A. are now constructing all their Haymakers on their original patent principle, and exactly like the one that took the Prize at Waterford; and they warrant every Machine they send out.  Price £15 15s.

☞ Smith & Ashby’s Haymaker has just taken the Prize of the Royal Bath and West of England Society, at Cardiff.

p. 35SMITH & ASHBY’S PATENT HORSE RAKE
FOR HAY, CORN, COUCH GRASS, STUBBLE, &c.

SALISBURY REPORT, 1857.—Messrs. Smith and Ashby’s Horse Rake, with Patent Steel Teeth, was next tried.  It is the old original Stamford Rake improved.  It is light, but works remarkably well.  The teeth are made of steel.  It drew up heavy grass better than any other, and it clean-raked admirably; it is also adapted for twitch or scutch grass.  A prize was awarded.—See Journal of the Royal Agricultural Society of England, 1857.

This Rake has taken the First Prize of the Royal Society of Ireland two years in succession—at Athlone, 1856, and at Carlow, 1855—against all the best rakes in the kingdom; it has also received the Certificate of Honour from the London, the Dublin, and the Paris Agricultural Exhibitions, and above Twenty Prizes from various other Societies.  Price £7 10s.  If with Steel Teeth, £8.

Smith & Ashby’s New Two-and-a-half Horse
PORTABLE STEAM ENGINE,

which for power and cheapness surpasses everything of the kind yet brought out.  It is adapted for the purpose of driving Chaff Cutters, Corn Crushers, Grinding Mills, Oil-cake Breakers, Thrashing Machines, Root Pulpers, Circular Saws, Pumps, &c., &c.  Price £65.

SPECIMEN OF TESTIMONIALS.

“Westwood, Bradford, Wilts, Jan. 31, 1858.

“Gentlemen,—Having now worked your little Engine for the last month, and having found it quite capable of doing more than I expected, I write to inform you that I am perfectly satisfied with it.  I have attached it to my Thrashing Machine, and find that by working up to 35 lb. to 40 lb. pressure, it performs its work in first-rate style.  I have fitted a pulley of 6½ inches diameter on the drum spindle, and can thrash three sacks an hour of wheat or barley with ease.  John Spackman.”

SMITH & ASHBY’S PATENT CHAFF CUTTERS,

Universally acknowledged to be the most simple, and at the same time they are well known to be amongst the most efficient and most noted Chaff Cutters in the world.  They are fitted with S. & A.’s new Patent Presser for preventing breakage when over fed, and also with their Patent Safety Apparatus for preventing accidents to the men employed to feed them.

For Prices and Testimonials, see S. & A.’s Catalogue, to be had, post free, on application to RUTLAND TERRACE IRON WORKS, STAMFORD, LINCOLNSHIRE.

p. 36TO TOURISTS & TRAVELLERS,

Visitors to the Sea Coast, and to those who enjoy the Fashionable Promenade, the Ride and Drive; in all cases Fervid Heat, and its concomitant Dust, materially injure the Skin, producing Sunburn, Tan, Freckles, and Discolorations of an almost indelible character.  To obviate and eradicate these baneful results, recourse may with confidence be had to

ROWLANDS’ KALYDOR,

an Oriental and Botanical Preparation.  Whether resorted to in its specific character as a thorough purifier of existing defects of an eruptive nature, and discolorations of the skin, or as a benign Preserver and Promoter of its already bright and glowing tints this,

ELEGANT TOILET REQUISITE

has, in every instance, maintained its claim to the title of the
“UNFAILING AUXILIARY OF FEMALE GRACE.”

During SUMMER and AUTUMN, which are peculiarly the seasons of Fashionable Movements, the invigorating and refreshing properties of ROWLANDS’ KALYDOR will be found singularly agreeable to

LADIES TRAVELLING.

The effects produced by temporary exposure to solar heat, upon the Face, Neck, Arms, and Hands being neutralized, and the cloud induced by relaxation and languor dispelled by its power of sustaining a perfect elasticity of the skin; without which certain deterioration takes place; thus in the usual periodical visits made to the coast, Rowlands’ Kalydor is indispensable as a preservative of the skin after

SEA BATHING,

from the irritation caused by the chemical action of the saline vapour.

CAUTION:—The words “ROWLANDS’ KALYDOR” are on the Wrapper, and
“A. ROWLAND & SONS” in red ink at foot.  Price 4s. 6d. and 8s. 6d. per bottle.

The heat of Summer frequently communicates a dryness to the hair, and a tendency to fall off, which may be completely obviated by the use of

ROWLANDS’ MACASSAR OIL,

A delightfully fragrant and transparent preparation, and as an invigorator and purifier of the Hair beyond all precedent.

Nor at this season of the year can we be too careful to preserve the Teeth from the deleterious effects of Vegetable Acids (the immediate cause of Tooth-ache) by a systematic employment, night and morning, of

ROWLANDS’ ODONTO.
OR, PEARL DENTIFRICE,

a White Powder, compounded of the rarest and most fragrant exotics.  It bestows on the Teeth a Pearl-like Whiteness, frees them from the Tartar, and imparts to the Gums a healthy firmness, and to the Breath a grateful sweetness and purity.  Price 2s. 9d. per box.

Sold by A. ROWLAND & SONS, 20, Hatton Garden, London,
and by Chemists and Perfumers.

^*_*^* BEWARE OF SPURIOUS IMITATIONS!!!

p. 37Royal Insurance Company
CAPITAL £2,000,000 IN 100,000 SHARES OF £20 EACH.

TRUSTEES

JOHN SHAW LEIGH, Esq., . . . and . . . JOHN NAYLOR, Esq.

DIRECTORS IN LIVERPOOL

Chairman . . . CHARLES TURNER, Esq.

Deputy Chairmen . . . RALPH BROCKLEBANK, Esq. & EDWARD JOHNSTON, Esq.

London Establishment

DIRECTORS IN LONDON

Chairman . . . SAMUEL BAKER, Esq. | Secretary . . . J. B. JOHNSTON, Esq.

THE FOLLOWING FIGURES EXHIBIT THE
RAPID GROWTH & INCREASING RESOURCES OF THE COMPANY.

Funds in hand, to meet any Claims, over £600,000.

PERCY M. DOVE,
Actuary and Manager.

p. 38THE ROYAL INSURANCE COMPANY.

LIFE

Large Bonus Declared—£2 per Cent. per Annum on the Sum Assure, on all Policies of Two Years standing or upwards.

DIVISION OF PROFITS EVERY FIVE YEARS.

LOANS ON LIFE POLICIES, with undoubted Personal Security, may, under certain circumstances, be granted.

DAYS OF GRACE allowed with the most liberal interpretation.  (See late Advertisements).

ANNUITIES granted on favourable terms, and every reasonable facility given.

PROGRESS OF THE LIFE BRANCH

“New Policies for the Year ending

“Thus the New Assurers for the Year ending June, 1857, are 160 per Cent. above those for the Year ending June, 1855.”

STATEMENTS OF THE “LONDON TIMES.”

The City Article of the “London Times” of the 24th July, 1156, states that the transactions of the Royal Insurance Company “appear to have been of a perfectly satisfactory character.”  It includes the following statements confirmatory of that opinion:—

PREMIUMS.

EXPENDITURE.

The Times’ Article exhibits the Expenditure likewise of the “Royal” in most favourable contrast to that of others.  The statement of “The Times” has elicited the following remarks from a contemporary:—Here again, the Royal Insurance Company occupies a position of honourable pre-eminence; for while its expense of management, spread over a period of three years, has been less than 20 per Cent., those of five other offices, extending over an equal time—for we omit those which have been established within three years, or we might make a much stronger case—have varied from 22 to74 per Cent., and in one case have been as high as 111 per Cent. on the receipts.

RESOURCES.

In like manner, the entire Funds in hand of thirteen offices are quoted, in “The Times,” at £1,238,688, including the Royal, which alone is £372,394, and which is, therefore, equal to 43 per Cent. of the accumulated funds of the remaining twelve offices, viz. for the Year 1855.  Since increased to £600,000.

EXTRACTS FROM REPORT FOR THE YEAR 1856.
FIRE DEPARTMENT.

“In directing the attention of the Proprietors to the continued and continuing increase of the Fire Department, the Directors on this occasion prefer to cite the proofs afforded by public Official Documents rather than to offer anticipations founded solely on their own investigations.

“They are now enabled to exhibit the advance in the British Fire Business of the Company, on the indisputable evidence of the “Parliamentary Return of Duty paid to Government” in the year 1856, recently ordered to be printed by the House of Commons.

“The Statistics of that Return establish the fact, than which none can be conceived more fitted to prove that No Insurance Company, ancient or modern, is advancing more speedily than the Royal Insurance Company in the confidence of the British People.

THE ROYAL INSURANCE COMPANY’S LIST OF AGENTS.
ENGLAND AND WALES.

The Directors are willing to appoint Agents of undoubted position and respectability in every Town where not at present represented.
Those Marked thus * are Fire Agents only

p. 41

p. 42HUGH ROBERTS

GENERAL PRINTING,

BOOK, AND STATIONARY ESTABLISHMENT,

EASTGATE ROW, CHESTER.

Agent to the Atlas Fire and Life Assurance Offices.

PRINTING

Of every Description, neatly and expeditiously executed.

LITHOGRAPHIC & COPPER-PLATE PRINTING
BOOKBINDING

ON THE MOST APPROVED PRINCIPLE.

GENERAL LIBRARY AND NEWSROOM
16,000 Vols.

AN EXTENSIVE AND WELL SELECTED STOCK OF HANDSOMELY
AND PLAINLY BOUND BOOKS, SUITABLE FOR PRESENTS

PERIODICALS AND NEWSPAPERS

Regularly supplied, and Foreign Books obtained to order through the most
expeditious agency.

Books forwarded by Post (pre-paid) to any part of the Country.

MUSIC AND PIANO-FORTES.

Depository for the Publications of the Society for Promoting
Christian Knowledge.

AN EXTENSIVE ASSORTMENT OF
BIBLES, PRAYER BOOKS.  AND CHURCH SERVICES,
IN EVERY VARIETY OF BINDING.

HUGH ROBERTS.  EASTGATE ROW.

FOOTNOTES.

[7]  Rev. Chancellor Raikes’ Introductory Lecture before the Chester Archæological Society.

[8]  This Earl was the first who assumed the present arms of Chester, three wheat-sheaves in a field azure.

[14]  Ormerod’s Cheshire, page 173.

[40]  The largest stone arch known, that which bears the nearest approach, is at Vieille Briode, which crosses the river Allien, in France, whose span is 183 feet, being 17 feet less than the Chester bridge.  It was erected in 1454, by Grenier.

[48]  Hemingway’s ‘History of Chester.’

[50]  Hemingway’s ‘History of Chester.’

[51]  Rev. Chancellor Raikes.

[75]  Mr. W. Ayrton, on the Norman Remains of the Cathedral.

***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ROBERTS' CHESTER GUIDE [1858]***


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